US20040018259A1

US20040018259A1 - Use of at least one extract of a plant of the genus lannea in a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition

Info

Publication number: US20040018259A1
Application number: US10/404,337
Authority: US
Inventors: Gilles Pauly; Philippe Moser; Louis Danoux
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1999-07-19
Filing date: 2003-04-01
Publication date: 2004-01-29
Also published as: HK1045112A1; JP2003504388A; BR0012618A; EP1196141A1; WO2001005368A1; FR2796549B1; KR20020040755A; AU6823300A; CN1361680A; US6599537B1; FR2796549A1

Abstract

A cosmetic composition containing:

(a) at least one plant extract from a plant belonging to a genus selected from the group consisting of Lannea, Odina, and mixtures thereof; and

(b) at least one active ingredient selected from the group consisting of an anti-radical agent, a tyrosinase-inhibiting agent, a melanogenesis-inhibiting agent, an anticollagenase agent, an antielastase agent, a cytoprotective agent, and mixtures thereof, for application onto a human substrate selected from the group consisting of skin, mucous membranes and epithelial appendages.

Description

This invention relates generally to the field of cosmetics and pharmacology and more particularly to the use of at least one extract of a plant belonging to the genus Lannea, preferably Lannea coromandelica or Lannea grandis, in cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical preparations.

Lannea coromandelica (Houtt.) Merr. is a tree originating from the Anacardiaceae family which is encountered mainly in India and in various Asiatic countries.

In the books of traditional Indian medicine, it is sometimes confused with Lannea grandis because, in many works, both have the same synonym Odina woodier roxb.

The bark is traditionally used in particular in the treatment of cuts, other wounds, bruises (sprains and strains) and diarrhoea, aqueous extracts of the bark also being used as an abortive.

The leaves like the bark are also used as curatives, particularly in the treatment of inflammation, arthritis, bruises and, generally, physical pain.

It is known that an ethanol extract of Lannea coromandelica leaves has a protective effect on the membrane of the red blood cells against hypotonic stress which has been taken as an indication of anti-inflammatory activity (cf. Gandhidasan R. et al., Fitoterapia, 62/1, 81-83, 1991).

In addition, an ethanol-containing extract of the bark, after intraperitoneal administration, has been shown to have quite considerable anti-inflammatory activity in doses dependent upon the particular type of inflammation, this extract having no pain-killing (analgesic) or antipyretic activity (cf. Singh S. and Singh G. B., Phytotherapy Research, 8/5, 311-313, 1994).

By contrast, the inventors have found that, besides the therapeutic properties mentioned above, extracts obtained from various parts of the plant also have significant biological properties so that they may be directly used in cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical compositions or for the preparation thereof.

The effects and properties demonstrated so unexpectedly and surprisingly consist in antiradical-like, cytophotoprotective, tyrosinase- and melanogenesis (depigmenting)-inhibiting and antiprotease (antielastase, anticollagenase) effects.

Accordingly, the problem addressed by the present invention was in particular to use at least one extract of a plant belonging to the botanical genus Lannea, preferably Lannea coromandelica or Lannea grandis (synonym Odina woodier), as an active principle for the preparation of a cosmetic product for external use for the skin, the mucous membranes and/or the epithelial appendage (superficial body growth), the extract or extract mixture in question being usable on its own or together with at least one other active principle.

By virtue of their many effects described hereinafter, these extracts may advantageously be used on their own or together with other active ingredients in products which are intended to counteract ageing of the skin, cutaneous hyperpigmentation, pigment spots, loss of cutaneous elasticity, wrinkles, irritation and inflammation (treatment of sensitive skin types), environmental pollution and/or harm caused by the sun.

After picking and drying, the relevant parts of the plant are subjected to an extraction process for which the solvent used is advantageously selected from the group consisting of water, alcohols, ketones, esters, chlorinated solvents, polyols or mixtures of at least two of the above-mentioned solvents miscible with one another.

Alternatively, the extracts according to the present invention may also be obtained by the extraction with supercritical CO ₂alone or with a co-solvent or by a solvent extraction process based on microwave radiation.

In one particular embodiment of the invention, the plant extract may also consist of one or more isolated purified fraction(s), particularly by chromatography starting from a crude extract.

Various examples of procedures preferably followed for the preparation of extracts from the plants mentioned above are described in the following in order to illustrate the invention without limiting it in any way.

The parts of the plants used in the description of the examples are mentioned purely by way of example, the extracts according to the invention being obtainable from all accessible parts of the plants, i.e. the roots, bark (from the roots, stalks and the trunk), the leaves and the leaved stalks, the seeds, fruit and blossoms, but preferably from the bark of the trunk and/or the leaves.

EXAMPLE 1

Bark of the [0017] Lannea coromandelica strain is coarse-crushed and then fine-crushed in a blade crusher.
3 Liters of distilled water are poured into a stirrer-equipped reactor and the following steps are then successively carried out: [0018]
introduce 300 g coarse-ground bark into the reactor, [0019]
extract by boiling for 1 hour with stirring, [0020]
allow to cool to room temperature, [0021]
separate insoluble material by centrifuging or filtering, [0022]
filter the liquid extract to a porosity of ca. 0.45 μm, [0023]
collect the filtrate and remove water by spraying (atomizing). [0024]
The extract obtained based on the extracted dry matter comprises 14% in relation to the coarse-ground bark. [0025]

EXAMPLE 2

3 Liters of 80% methyl alcohol are poured into a stirrer-equipped reactor and the following steps are then successively carried out: [0026]
introduce 300 g dried coarse-ground [0027] Lannea coromandelica leaves into the reactor,
extract by heating (under reflux) for 1 hour with stirring, [0028]
allow to cool to room temperature, [0029]
filter and rinse the residue with 300 ml 80% methanol, [0030]
mix the filtrates and then clarify them by filtering to a porosity of ca. 0.45 μm, [0031]
evaporate the methanol phase in vacuo, [0032]
if necessary, remove water from the aqueous solution formed by any of the usual methods familiar to the expert in this field. [0033]
The extract obtained based on the extracted dry matter comprises 10.3% in relation to the coarse-ground leaves. [0034]

EXAMPLE 3

3 Liters of absolute ethanol are poured into a stirrer-equipped reactor and the following steps are then successively carried out: [0035]
introduce 300 g coarse-ground roots of the bark of the [0036] Lannea coromandelica strain into the reactor,
extract by heating (under reflux) for 1 hour with stirring, [0037]
allow to cool to room temperature, [0038]
filter and rinse the residue with 300 ml ethanol at 96°, [0039]
mix the filtrates and filter to a porosity of ca. 0.45 μm, [0040]
evaporate the ethanol phase in vacuo at 40° C., [0041]
remove traces of the solvent by drying the extracts in a ventilated drying oven at 40-50° C. [0042]
The extract obtained comprises 16.1% in relation to the coarse-ground bark. [0043]

The following Table is a list—intended for information—of all the Lannea coromandelica extracts which the inventors obtained by steps similar to those described above.



Extracted part of the plant	Extract type	Yield in %

Bark of the trunk, sample A	Aqueous extract	13.9
	80% Methanol extract	18.7
	Ethanol extract	16.1
Bark of the trunk, sample B	Aqueous extract	11.9
	80% Methanol extract	14.1
	Ethanol extract	14.1
Leaves	Aqueous extract	10.2
	80% Methanol extract	10.3
	Ethanol extract	12.1

I) Demonstration of Inhibition of Melanogenesis by [0045] Lannea coromandelica Extracts
a) Principle of the Tests [0046]
Melanin, a biological polymer which determines the color of the skin, is produced in epidermal melanocytes by a specific enzyme, tyrosinase. This enzyme catalyzes the first two stages in the synthesis of melanin, i.e. the conversion of the tyrosine into DOPA (dihydroxy phenyl alanine) and then into dopachromium. The dopachromium is then oxidized under the effect of other enzymes and polymerized into melanin which is passed onto the keratinocytes in the form of small granules, the melanosomes. [0047]
In addition, it has been found that ageing under the effect of light can cause the appearance of dark unattractive spots which are produced by hyperactivity of the melanocytes. [0048]
The ability of Lannea extracts, particularly [0049] Lannea coromandelica extracts, to reduce the activity of the melanocytes has been evaluated by a tyrosinase inhibition test in tubo and by a melanogenesis inhibition test in vitro, of which the principles are summarized below:
In Tubo Tyrosinase Inhibition Test [0050]
mixing of the L-DOPA with tyrosinase and the [0051] Lannea coromandelica extracts to be tested,
recording of the DO at 475 nm of the dopachromium, [0052]
calculation of the kinetics, then the CI50 (extract concentration which produces a 50% inhibition of the enzyme activity). [0053]
In Vitro Melanogenesis Inhibition Test on B16 Melanocytes [0054]
inoculation of the melanocytes into a growth substrate, [0055]
incubation for three days at 37° C., CO[0056] ₂=5%,
introduction of the [0057] Lannea coromandelica extracts into a medium which activates melanogenesis,
incubation for three days at 37° C., CO[0058] ₂=5%,
spectrophotometric dosing of the proteins (co-called Bradford method) and the melanin (DO at 475 nm) into the homogenized melanocytes, [0059]
calculation of an activity index which corresponds to the ratio (protein level/melanin level) for an optimal dose of extract. [0060]
It follows that the higher the index (>1), the greater the ability to inhibit melanogensis. [0061]
b) Results [0062]
FIG. 1 of the accompanying drawings is characteristic of the results obtained (in tubo tyrosinase inhibition test using aqueous extracts of the [0063] Lannea coromandelica bark). All the results (CI50 value) are set out in Table 1 below.

TABLE 1

in tubo tyrosinase inhibition by Lannea coromandelica extracts:

values = Cl50 in % by wt./vol. (weight/volume)

Extracted parts Trunk bark

Cl50 in % by wt./vol. Sample A Sample B Leaves

Aqueous extract 0.009% 0.025% 0.093%

Methanol extr. 80% 0.009% 0.007% 0.05%

Ethanol extract 96° 0.008% 0.007% 0.130%

Hydroquinone Cl50 = 0.025% by wt./vol.
FIG. 2 of the accompanying drawings (statistical results: average±typical deviation, two tests, repeated three times) is characteristic of the results obtained on B16 melanocyte. All the results obtained by tests similar to those shown in FIG. 2 are set out in Table II. [0064]

TABLE II

In vitro melanogenesis inhibition on B16 melanocytes by aqueous

extracts of the bark of Lannea coromandelica. Values shown:

I = activity index on B16 melanocytes.

Tested dose % by Trunk bark

Extracted parts wt./vol. Sample A Sample B

Aqueous extract 0.016 I = 2.9 I = 2.5

Methanol extract 80% 0.032 I = 2 I = 2.5

Ethanol extract 0.016 I = 2.6 I = 2.4

Arbutin I = 3.14 (for the 0.3% dose)
The results of these two test series show that the [0065] Lannea coromandelica extracts according to the invention have considerable melanogenesis inhibition capacities; these capacities are at least partly attributable to inhibition of tyrosinase.
This property enables the extracts to be used in the local treatment of cutaneous hyperpigmentations such as, for example, age pigment spots. [0066]
II) Demonstration of the Anti-Free Radical Properties of the [0067] Lannea coromandelica Extracts
Free radicals (RLs) are activated chemical species characterized by the presence of a free electron which is not bound in pairs. They can be formed from endogenous molecules such as, for example, unsaturated lipids, certain amino acids or from oxygen during spontaneous enzymatic reactions of the general metabolism or which were induced during inflammation. Certain stress factors such as, for example, UV rays or environmental pollution also promote their formation and any excess of free radicals causes damage to all constituents of living tissue (lipids, proteins, sugars, ADN, etc.). This toxicity of free radicals is greatly potentialized by the presence of oxygen and explains the ageing of the living organisms or even serious pathologies, such as skin cancer. [0068]
The anti-free radical properties of [0069] Lannea coromandelica extracts are evaluated by in tubo chemical and biochemical tests which relate both to the original radical-like forms and to the reactive oxygen-induced forms. These tests are carried out on synthetic substrates and also on a natural substrate, collagen, the dermal glycoprotein which is highly sensitive to the activity of the reactive forms of oxygen (or FRO).
These tests are completed by a test for human fibroblasts in an in vitro culture which evaluates the cytophotoprotective effects of [0070] Lannea coromandelica extracts on the cells against UV-A.
UV-As are selected as a study model because they penetrate into the inner skin and introduce an oxidizing stress into the skin which is reflected in particular in a lipoperoxidation of the cytoplasmic membrane. The lipoperoxides formed split up into malonaldialdehydes which are responsible for the crosslinking of numerous biological molecules, such as proteins for example (enzyme inhibition), and nuclein bases (mutagenesis). [0071]
a) DPPH° Test [0072]
DPPH (diphenyl picryl hydrazyl) is a stable, free, violet-colored radical which is modified in its leuco compound by the substances that trap the free radicals (=scavenger or bait effect). [0073]
The result is expressed in leuco compound levels which are formed in the presence of the active agent (in % in relation to the control with no active principle). [0074]
The results are set out in Table III below. [0075]

TABLE III

Anti-radical effect of Lannea coromandelica extracts. Anti-

DPPH ° test: level of leuco compound formed (in % in

relation to the control: average of 2 tests).

Aqueous Ethanol

bark 80% methanol bark

Dose in % extract bark extract extract Ascorbic

(wt./vol.) Sample A Sample A Sample A acid

Control

0 0 0 0

0.0003% extract 27 34 31

0.001% extract 73 90 86 49

0.01% extract 93 93 93 75

Cl50 in % 0.0007 0.0005 0.0005 0.0013

(wt./vol.)
b) Anti-Hydroxyl Radical Test (HO°) [0076]
Anti-HO°-Test with Deoxyribose (Fenton Reaction) [0077]
These tests evaluate the ability of an active substance to eliminate (“bait”) HO° produced by the Fenton reaction (H[0078] ₂O₂in the presence of iron).
HO° can be exposed by deoxyribose. Deoxyribose is an essential compound of ADN which is oxidized and then fragmented by HO°. The oxidation product of deoxyribose is exposed by condensation with thiobarbituric acid (measurement of optical density at 532 nm). This test is carried out with and without EDTA in order to determine the ability of the extract to form active complex compounds with iron (“Ferriprive effect”). [0079]
The results are set out in Tables IV.1) and IV.2) below and demonstrate the anti-HO° effect of the [0080] Lannea coromandelica extracts. Tests with deoxyribose (Fenton reaction) (results in percentage inhibition of the hydroxylation rate: average of 2 tests).

TABLE IV.1

“Fenton” reaction with EDTA

80%

Aqueous bark methanol Ethanol bark

Dose in % extract bark extract extract Ascorbic

(wt./vol.) Sample A Sample A Sample A acid

Control

0 0 0 0

0.03% extract 0 0 3

0.1% extract 29 25 23 45

1% extract 73

Cl50 in % >0.1 >0.1 >0.1 0.26

(wt./vol.)
[0081]

TABLE IV.2

“Fenton” reaction without EDTA

80%

Aqueous bark methanol Ethanol bark

Dose in % extract bark extract extract Ascorbic

(wt./vol.) Sample A Sample A Sample A acid

Control

0 0 0 0

0.003% extract 8 37 51

0.01% extract 36 76 75 5

0.03% extract 78 79 77 75

0.1% extract 73 76 78 2

1% extract 56

Cl50 in % 0.017 0.005 0.003 0.9

(wt./vol.)
c) Biochemical or Enzymatic Tests [0082]
*Anti-Anion Superoxide Effect (O[0083] _2. ⁻)
O[0084] _2. ⁻ is produced during the oxidizing stress through the introduction of an enzyme, xanthine oxidase (XOD), which degrades the excess hypoxanthine (HX) during an interruption in or disruption of the energy metabolism in living tissue.
O[0085] _2. ⁻ is toxic, particularly because of its ability to form hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂)—which in turn forms a source of HO^• through the Fenton reaction—either spontaneously or in the presence of Superoxid-Dismutase (SOD).
The biochemical tests are carried out with HX in the presence of XOD and the O[0086] _2. ⁻ are exposed by luminol or a mixture of luminol and peroxidase, which exposes O_2. ⁻ and H₂O₂, or by a tetrazolium salt (NBT) which forms a red compound evaluated at 540 nm.
The results are set out in Tables V.1), V.2) and V.3) below which demonstrate the anti-anion superoxidase effect O[0087] _2. ⁻ in tubo of the Lannea coromandelica extracts.

TABLE V.1

Test with luminol: results in percentage inhibition

(average of 2 tests)

Aqueous 80%

bark methanol Ethanol bark

Dose in extract bark extract extract Ascortic

(wt./vol.) Sample A Sample A Sample A acid

Control

0 0 0 0

0.0001% extract 36 38 40 5

0.001% extract 90 94 93 92

0.01% extract 100 100 100 100

Cl50 in % 0.0003 0.0003 0.0003 0.0006

(wt./vol.)
[0088]

TABLE V.2

Test with luminol + microperoxidase: results in percentage

inhibition (average of 2 tests)

80%

Aqueous bark methanol Ethanol bark

Dose in % extract bark extract extract Ascorbic

(wt./vol.) Sample A Sample A Sample A acid

Control

0 0 0 0

0.001% extract 1 14 2 0

0.01% extract 98 100 99 94

0.03% extract 100 100 100

Cl50 in % 0.0055 0.0048 0.0055 0.0058

(wt./vol.)

TABLE V.3


Test with NBT: results in percentage inhibition
(average of 2 tests)

		80%
	Aqueous bark	methanol	Ethanol bark
Dose in %	extract	bark extract	extract	Ascorbic
(wt./vol.)	Sample A	Sample A	Sample A	acid

Control

	0	0	0	0
0.001% extract	9	16	15
0.01% extract	58	64	65	15
0.03% extract	75	82	82
0.1% extract	90	94	91	32
I % extract				65
Cl50 in %	0.0085	0.0074	0.0073	0.5909
(wt./vol.)

Collagen is a dermal glycoprotein which is very sensitive to the activity of the reactive form of oxygen (or FRO). It was shown that singlet oxygen (O[0090] ₂ ¹) produces troublesome crosslinkings among the proteins.
The principle of this test is based on measurement of the viscosity of an aqueous solution of type I collagen in the presence of a photochemical O[0091] ₂ ¹-evolving system.
O[0092] ₂ ¹, which is produced by riboflavin in the presence of UV-A, causes the collagen to gel in the presence of glucose which is reflected in an increase in viscosity. This effect is inhibited by the molecules which expose O₂ ¹, such as thiourea or aminoguanidine for example.
Viscosity is evaluated by measurement of the throughflow time through the capillary of a “Cannon Fenske” viscosimeter. [0093]
The results are set out in Table VI below which emphasizes the photoprotective effects of the [0094] Lannea coromandelica extracts on type I collagen (results in percentage inhibition).

TABLE VI

Aqueous bark 80% Methanol bark

Dose in % extract extract Amino-

(wt./vol.) Sample A Sample A guanidine

Control

0 0 0

0.005% extract 57

0.01% extract 54 70

0.015% extract 75

Cl50 in % (wt./vol.) 0.009 0.007 0.004
d) Anti-UVA-Cytophotoprotection Test on Human Fibroblasts [0095]
This in vitro test evaluates the ability of [0096] Lannea coromandelica extracts according to the invention to afford human fibroblasts cytophotoprotection against UV-A.
The UV-As are selected as a study model because they penetrate into the inner skin and introduce an oxidizing stress into the skin which is reflected in particular in a lipoperoxidation of the cytoplasmic membrane. The lipoperoxides formed split up into malonaldialdehydes (MDAs) which are responsible for the crosslinking of numerous biological molecules, such as proteins for example (enzyme inhibition), and nuclein bases (mutagenesis). [0097]
Fibroblasts are inoculated into a nutrient medium defined with calf foetus serum. The [0098] Lannea coromandelica extract was added 2 to 3 days after inoculation. After incubation for 2 to 3 days at 37° C./CO₂=5%, the nutrient medium is replaced by a salt solution and the fibroblasts are exposed to a dose of UV-A (15 J/cm²).
After the exposure, the MDA level in the salt solution floating on the surface is determined and the protein level in the fibroblasts is measured. The MDA level is determined by reaction to thiobarbituric acid while the protein levels are determined by the Bradford method. [0099]
The results are set out in Tables VII.1 and VII.2 below which enable the cytophotoprotective effect of the [0100] Lannea coromandelica extracts on human fibroblasts to be emphasized through in vitro survival (results in % in relation to the irradiated control agent MDA) and in relation to the non-irradiated control agent (proteins): average of 1 or 2 tests carried out three times).

TABLE VII.1

MDA

Aqueous 80% Ethanol

bark Methanol bark

Parameter evaluated extract bark extract extract

Tested extracts Sample A Sample A Sample A Vitamin E

Control without UV-A 0 0 0 0

Control with UV-A 100 100 100 100

0.0003% extract 96 74 84 21

0.001% extract 64 56 59 8
[0101]

TABLE VII.2

Proteins

Aqueous 80% Ethanol

bark Methanol bark

Parameter evaluated extract bark extract extract

Tested extracts Sample A Sample A Sample A Vitamin E

Control without UV-A 100 100 100 100

Control with UV-A 95 95 95 96

0.0003% extract 100 96 97 97

0.001% extract 93 93 98 98
The results of the various tests show that [0102] Lannea coromandelica extracts are well capable of eliminating (“baiting”) free radicals, the hydroxyl radical and superoxide anions. This anti-free-radical activity is observed in the photoprotection test on type I collagen and in the cytophotoprotection test on human fibroblasts in in-vitro cultures.
This activity is at least partly attributable to a baiting (or scavenger) effect against free radicals and reactive forms of oxygen (radical hydroxyl, anion superoxide and singlet oxygen) and a chelate-binding effect of iron as demonstrated by the anti-HO° activity which is greater in the absence of EDTA than in the presence of EDTA. [0103]
These various results clearly show that [0104] Lannea coromandelica extracts according to the invention with their cytophotoprotective activity are suitable for use in care preparations for the skin or the epithelial appendage (superficial body growth) which are intended to control signs of ageing, environmental stress, inflammation, irritation (treatment of sensitive skin types).
III. Antiprotease Activity of the [0105] Lannea coromandelica Extracts
The proteases secreted by the polymorphonuclear neutrophiles (PNN) during inflammation or by fibroblasts exposed to UV-A radiation produce a decay of the proteins which structure the extracellular matrix of the inner skin. Accordingly, the PNNs secrete an elastase (serine protease) which acts on elastin, proteoglycans and collagens while “old” or irradiated fibroblasts secrete metalloproteases with elastase and collagenase activities. [0106]
The two protease types were evaluated by enzymatic in tubo reactions. [0107]
a) Antielastase Test [0108]
The in tubo tests are carried out with an elastase of the abdominal salivary gland (serine protease) using two types of substrate: a synthetic color-forming (chromogenic) substrate and a natural substrate consisting of elastin connected with Congo red. [0109]
Incubation lasts 30 minutes at room temperature and coloration is measured at 410 nm and 520 nm. [0110]
The inhibition test standard tested for comparison is 1 antitrypsin. [0111]
The results are set out in Tables VIII and IX below. [0112]

TABLE VIII

Antielastase activity of the Lannea coromandelica extracts.

A method in which elastin connected with Congo red is used:

results in percentage inhibition.

Dose in % 80% Methanol bark extract Ethanol bark extract

(wt./vol.) Sample A Sample A

Control

0 0

0.1% extract 0 0

0.2% extract 6 29

0.3% extract 35 100

Cl50 in % by wt./vol. 0.35 0.23
[0113]

TABLE IX

Antielastase activity of the Lannea coromandelica extracts.

A method which uses the synthetic substrate:

results in percentage inhibition.

Aqueous bark 80% Methanol Ethanol bark

Dose in % extract extract extract

(wt./vol.) Sample A Sample A Sample A

Control 0 0 0

0.01% extract 0 22 37

0.01% extract 56 65 67

0.01% extract 66 76 77

0.01% extract 72 82 83

Cl50 in % by wt./vol. 0.028 0.023 0.019
b) In Tubo Anticollagenase Test [0114]
The tests are carried out with a clostridium hystoliticum collagenase and a synthetic chromogenic substrate: FALGPA. Incubation lasts 3O minutes at room temperature and optical density is measured at 324 nm. The inhibition test standard tested for comparison is cysteine. [0115]
The results are set out in Table X below which emphasizes the anticollagenase activity of the [0116] Lannea coromandelica extracts (results in percentage inhibition).

TABLE X

Aqueous bark 80% Methanol Ethanol bark

Dose in % extract extract extract

(wt./vol.) Sample A Sample A Sample A

Control 0 0 0

0.01% extract 46 0 2

0.03% extract 100 43 51

0.1% extract 100 100 100

0.3% extract 100 100 100

Cl50 in % by wt./vol. 0.011 0.039 0.030
It is clear from the above results that [0117] Lannea coromandelica extracts are well capable of inhibiting elastase and collagenase.
Accordingly, extracts according to the invention may advantageously be used for various applications involving inhibition of these proteases such as, for example, tightening of the skin, controlling ageing of the skin (wrinkles) and scalp, anti-inflammatory and anti-irritation effects. [0118]
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition for external application to the skin, the mucous membranes and/or the epithelial appendage (superficial body growth) which contains at least one extract of a plant belonging to the genus Lannea, preferably [0119] Lannea coromandelica or Lannea grandis, as an active principle on its own or together with at least one other active principle used for its strong anti-radical-like effect, for its ability to inhibit tyrosinase and melanogensis, for its strong anticollagenase effect, for its strong antielastase effect and/or for its cytophotoprotective effect (particularly against UV-A).
The said extract(s) may be used in this composition to utilize one of the above-mentioned effects or properties regarded separately or at least two of these effects or properties or even for all effects or properties regarded simultaneously. [0120]
The cosmetic composition according to the invention advantageously contains between 0.001% and 20% by weight and preferably between 0.1% and 3% by weight of a plant extract or a mixture of plant extracts belonging to the genus Lannea, preferably [0121] Lannea grandis or Lannea coromandelica, as mentioned above or as obtained by any of the processes mentioned above.
In addition, the above-mentioned extracts may be used in any form of a galenic medicine as normally used in cosmetics, for example in emulsions (oil-in-water and water-in-oil), face lotions, body milk, gels, hydrogels, creams, pommades, soaps, sticks, sprays, epithelial appendage (superficial body growth) lotion and shampoos. [0122]
In addition, the said extracts or mixtures of plant extracts may be incorporated in cosmetic vectors such as, for example, liposomes, macro-, micro- and nanocapsules, macro-, micro- and nanoparticles or the like. [0123]
The following Examples illustrate various formulations of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention and their preparation. [0124]

EXAMPLE 1

A cosmetic product in the form of a leave-on lotion for treating cutaneous hyperpigmentation and pigment spots may have the following composition:



80% methanol extract of Lannea bark		0.10
distilled water		9.50
hydroxyethyl cellulose		0.50
Elestab 350 (Laboratoires Sérobiologiques)		0.50
perfume		0.10
RH 410 Cremophor		0.30
distilled water	qsf	100.00

The process for preparing the leave-on lotion essentially comprises dissolving, the Elestab 305 and the hydroxyethyl cellulose in water heated to around 50° C., dispersing the perfume and the RH 410 Cremophor in the solution and then cooling the mixture to room temperature, dissolving the Lannea extract therein and finally filtering the whole. [0126]

EXAMPLE 2

A cosmetic product in the form of a cream for treating ageing skin, wrinkles and loss of suppleness of the skin may be made up from the following two phases:



	fatty phase
	Ceteareth
25		2.00
	Ceteareth 6 and stearyl alcohol		1.00
	cetyl alcohol		4.00
	glycol stearate		4.00
	petrolatum		5.00
	caprylic triglycerides/caprins		5.00
	aqueous phase
	glycerol		10.00
	aqueous Lannea bark extract		3.00
	distilled water		8.50
	Elestab 4112 preservative (Labo. Sérobiol.)		0.40
	perfume		0.30
	distilled water	qsf	100.00

Preparation of the above-mentioned cream essentially comprises heating the fatty phase to 80° C., heating the aqueous phase to 80° C. and dissolving the Elestab 4112, separately preparing the mother solution of Lannea extract, adding the fatty phase to the aqueous phase while stirring (turbine agitator), adding the mother solution of Lannea extract at around 50° C. and finally allowing the whole to cool while stirring. [0128]

EXAMPLE 3

A cosmetic product in the form of a cream for sensitive skin types for treating skin damaged by exposure to the sun and environmental stress may be made up of the following phases:



fatty phase:
glycol stearate		14.00
dodecane octyl		6.00
dibutyl adipate		6.00
Ceteareth 12		1.50
Ceteareth 20		1.50
aqueous phase:
PVP (polyvinyl pyrrolidone)		0.50
glycerol		4.00
Elestab 388 (Laboratoires Sérobiologiques)		2.00
80% methanol extract of Lannea bark		3.00
distilled water		9.00
perfume		0.20
distilled water	qsf	100.00

Preparation of the above-mentioned cream essentially comprises heating the fatty phase to 80° C., heating the aqueous phase to 80° C. and dissolving the Elestab 388 and PVP, adding the fatty phase to the aqueous phase while stirring (turbine agitator) at 80° C. and, finally, gradually cooling the whole while stirring, adding the mother dispersion of the Lannea extract at around 50° C. and finally allowing the whole to cool while stirring. [0130]
The invention is not of course confined to the above Examples. Modifications may be made, particularly to the composition of the various elements or by the replacement of technical equivalents, without departing from the scope of the invention. [0131]

Claims

1. The use of at least one extract of a plant belonging to the genus Lannea or Odina as active principle on its own or together with at least one other active principle for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical product for local external application to the skin, the mucous membranes and/or the epithelial appendage (superficial body growth).

2. The use claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the active principle consists of at least one extract of the plant Lannea coromandelica and/or the plant Lannea grandis.

3. The use claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the part(s) used for the preparation of the extract(s) is/are the roots, bark, leaves, leaved stalks, fruit, seeds and/or blossoms.

4. The use claimed in claim 3, characterized in that the parts used for the preparation of the extracts are selected from the trunk bark and the leaves.

5. The use claimed in any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the solvent used for the extractions, preferably from parts of dried plants, is selected from the group consisting of water, alcohols, ketones, esters, polyols, chlorinated solvents and mixtures of at least two of the above-mentioned solvents.

6. The use claimed in any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the solvent used for the extractions, preferably from parts of dried plants, is supercritical CO₂which is used on its own or together with another solvent.

7. The use claimed in any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the Lannea extract is obtained by a solvent extraction process based on microwave radiation.

8. The use claimed in any of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the extract consists of one or more isolated fraction(s) purified from crude extracts.

9. The use claimed in any of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the active principle or the mixture of extracted active principles is used for its anti-radical effect, its inhibition of tyrosinase and its inhibition of melanogenesis, its cytophotoprotective, antielastase and/or anticollagenase activity.

10. A cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition for local external application to the skin, the mucous membranes and/or epithelial appendage (superficial body growth), characterized in that it contains at least one extract of a plant of the genus Lannea, preferably a Lannea coromandelica or a Lannea grandis plant, as active principle with a strong anti-radical effect either on its own or together with at least one other active principle.

11. A cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition for local external application to the skin, the mucous membranes and/or epithelial appendage (superficial body growth), characterized in that it contains at least one extract of a plant of the genus Lannea, preferably a Lannea coromandelica or a Lannea grandis plant, as active principle with a tyrosinase or melanogenesis-inhibiting effect either on its own or together with at least one other active principle.

12. A cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition for local external application to the skin, the mucous membranes and/or epithelial appendage (superficial body growth), characterized in that it contains at least one extract of a plant of the genus Lannea, preferably a Lannea coromandelica or a Lannea grandis plant, as active principle with a strong anticollagenase effect either on its own or together with at least one other active principle.

13. A cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition for local external application to the skin, the mucous membranes and/or epithelial appendage (superficial body growth), characterized in that it contains at least one extract of a plant of the genus Lannea, preferably a Lannea coromandelica or a Lannea grandis plant, as active principle with a strong antielastase effect either on its own or together with at least one other active principle.

14. A cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition for local external application to the skin, the mucous membranes and/or epithelial appendage (superficial body growth), characterized in that it contains at least one extract of a plant of the genus Lannea, preferably a Lannea coromandelica or a Lannea grandis plant, as active principle with a cytophotoprotective effect, particularly against UV-A.

15. A cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition for local external application to the skin, the mucous membranes and/or epithelial appendage (superficial body growth), characterized in that it contains at least one extract of a plant of the genus Lannea, preferably a Lannea coromandelica or a Lannea grandis plant, as active principle on its own or together with at least one other active principle used for its anti-radical effect, its tyrosinase- or melanogenesis-inhibiting properties, its anticollagenase effect, its antielastase effect and/or its cytoprotective effect.

16. A cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition for local external application to the skin as claimed in any of claims 10 to 15, characterized in that the extracts or mixtures of plant extracts are incorporated in cosmetic vectors such as, for example, liposomes, macro-, micro and nanocapsules, macro-, micro- and nanoparticles or the like.

17. A cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition as claimed in any of claims 10 to 16, characterized in that it contains between 0.001% and 20% by weight and preferably between 0.1% and 3% by weight of an extract or a mixture of extracts of one or more plants belonging to the genus Lannea, preferably a Lannea coromandelica or a Lannea grandis plant.