US1974720A - Turned shoe process - Google Patents

Turned shoe process Download PDF

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Publication number
US1974720A
US1974720A US539187A US53918731A US1974720A US 1974720 A US1974720 A US 1974720A US 539187 A US539187 A US 539187A US 53918731 A US53918731 A US 53918731A US 1974720 A US1974720 A US 1974720A
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shoe
last
shank
mold
turned
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US539187A
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Miller Charles
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43DMACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D35/00Presses for shaping pre-existing loose soles, shoe bottoms or soles fixed to shoe bottoms

Definitions

  • the shoe including the upper and sole is assembled inside out on the first last. The last is then withdrawn, the shoe is turned rightside out, and then it is relasted.
  • the rlasting operation as now practiced involves a numlll ber of difiicult and time consuming steps which are performed by the shoemaker. These steps in the method not only add considerably to the cost of the shoe but also involve the inherent disadvantage that the work of one shoemaker varies "1 5 from that of another; and even one shoe is often related differently from the next by the same shoemaker. This, of course, results in non-uniiormity in the product which is highly undesirable.
  • a shank piece having a metallic stiffener is employed at the shank of the'shoe. tial to pull down the shank piece to the last as completely as possible, in order to produce well fitting shoes.
  • the last is placed upon a jack; a leather saddle placed over the shank, the saddle having a rope attached thereto which is tied to a foot treadle, by means of which the shoemaker applies a pressure to the shank to pull the same into position;
  • FIG. 1 is a side elevation, partly in section, of
  • Fig. 2 is a fragmentary sectional view taken along the line 2--2 of Fig. 1.
  • the upper and sole are assembled and lasted as is common under the usual practice now used in the well known commercial process of making turned shoes.
  • the present invention applies specifically to the second lasting or re-lasting operation.
  • the shank piece used consists of a leather member which extends from the heel to the ball line of the shoe, and to which member is attached a steel stiiiener.
  • the second last is now inserted and the shoe placed in the molding apparatus shown in the drawing.
  • the molding apparatus not only pulls the shank member snugly against the last, but also the side portions of the mold frictionally engage the upper material and pull and smooth the same so that the shoe is perfectly relasted without unduly straining the parts of the shoe and with a minimum of effort on the part of the shoemaker. I have found in'practice that the use of the molding apparatus as heretofore described eliminates many separate tedious and time consuming operations of the relasting process, and the resulting product is more uniform and of better fit.
  • this apparatus comprises a support 10, upon which is mounted a pneumatic pad 11 of a yieldable material shaped on its surface 12 to the contour of a shoe with the heel removed.
  • the side portions 13 of the pad extend upwardly and inwardly (Fig. 2) to contact with the shoe upper when the same is in the mold.
  • a pipe 14 and valve 15 is provided to conduct the fluid which fills the pad 11.
  • a bracket 16 having a heel brace 17 and toe brace 18 is pivotally carried by the lever 19 which is pivotally hinged to the standard 20.
  • a flat spring 21 fixed to the standard 20 engages the under side of the lever 19 to prevent the same from dropping under its own weight, when the apparatus is not in use.
  • the forward end of the lever 19 is provided with an eye 22 to which is coupled a tension rod 23.
  • a rear standard 24 having a slot 25 in which the lever moves vertically is provided to steady the latter.
  • a base member 30 is provided with a support 31 to which is pivoted the treadle 32.
  • a forward standard 33, having ratchet teeth 34 is arranged to permit the foot treadle to be locked in place.
  • the rod 23 is coupled to the treadle at 35.

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  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Description

C. MILLER TURNED sacs PROCESS Sept. 25, 1934.
Filed May 22. 1931 INVENTOR CHARLES MILLER BY a la M ATTORNEY Patented Sept. 25, 1934 ATENT OFFICE 1,974,720 7 TURNED snoE rnoonss Charles Miller, Long Island City, N. Y. Application May 22, 1931, Serial No. 559,187 2 Claims. (o1. m -142) This invention relates to the shoe art and deals more specifically with a method and means for making turned shoes.
In accordance with the present day practice of 5 making turned shoes, the shoe including the upper and sole is assembled inside out on the first last. The last is then withdrawn, the shoe is turned rightside out, and then it is relasted. The rlasting operation as now practiced involves a numlll ber of difiicult and time consuming steps which are performed by the shoemaker. These steps in the method not only add considerably to the cost of the shoe but also involve the inherent disadvantage that the work of one shoemaker varies "1 5 from that of another; and even one shoe is often related differently from the next by the same shoemaker. This, of course, results in non-uniiormity in the product which is highly undesirable.
Moreover, in the turn process, a shank piece having a metallic stiffener is employed at the shank of the'shoe. tial to pull down the shank piece to the last as completely as possible, in order to produce well fitting shoes. Under the present practice the last is placed upon a jack; a leather saddle placed over the shank, the saddle having a rope attached thereto which is tied to a foot treadle, by means of which the shoemaker applies a pressure to the shank to pull the same into position; and finally,
the various smoothing and finishing steps of the relasting operation are performed. Obviously, the force exerted upon the shank by means of the saddle and rope method now used, varies from shoe to shoe, with the result that the fit oi the shank portion to the last varies substantially.
It is therefore an object of this invention to provide a method of relasting shoes which is simple, inexpensive, and more rapid in operation.
Further, it is an object of this invention to provide a method of relasting shoes which eliminates certain hand operations now necessary.
And it is a further object of this inventionto 34 1.; provide a method of relasting shoes which insures a better fitting and more uniform product.
It is a further object of this invention to provide a method of relasting in which the fit of the shank piece is more uniform, and also the step of conforming the same to the last is simplified.
These and other objects of the invention will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art from the following description taken in connection with the accompanying drawing, in which: 55%- Fig. 1 is a side elevation, partly in section, of
In the relasting it is essen an apparatus used in carrying out the present invention; and
Fig. 2 is a fragmentary sectional view taken along the line 2--2 of Fig. 1.
In accordance with the present invention, the upper and sole are assembled and lasted as is common under the usual practice now used in the well known commercial process of making turned shoes. The present invention applies specifically to the second lasting or re-lasting operation. After the first last is withdrawn the counter and shank piece are assembled in the shoe and a second last inserted. The shank piece used consists of a leather member which extends from the heel to the ball line of the shoe, and to which member is attached a steel stiiiener. The second last is now inserted and the shoe placed in the molding apparatus shown in the drawing. The molding apparatus not only pulls the shank member snugly against the last, but also the side portions of the mold frictionally engage the upper material and pull and smooth the same so that the shoe is perfectly relasted without unduly straining the parts of the shoe and with a minimum of effort on the part of the shoemaker. I have found in'practice that the use of the molding apparatus as heretofore described eliminates many separate tedious and time consuming operations of the relasting process, and the resulting product is more uniform and of better fit.
Following the ioregoing operaticn, the shoe is finished in the usual manner.
The molding apparatus will now be described in detail. Referring to the drawing, this apparatus comprises a support 10, upon which is mounted a pneumatic pad 11 of a yieldable material shaped on its surface 12 to the contour of a shoe with the heel removed. The side portions 13 of the pad extend upwardly and inwardly (Fig. 2) to contact with the shoe upper when the same is in the mold. A pipe 14 and valve 15 is provided to conduct the fluid which fills the pad 11.
A bracket 16 having a heel brace 17 and toe brace 18 is pivotally carried by the lever 19 which is pivotally hinged to the standard 20. A flat spring 21 fixed to the standard 20 engages the under side of the lever 19 to prevent the same from dropping under its own weight, when the apparatus is not in use. The forward end of the lever 19 is provided with an eye 22 to which is coupled a tension rod 23. A rear standard 24 having a slot 25 in which the lever moves vertically is provided to steady the latter. A base member 30 is provided with a support 31 to which is pivoted the treadle 32. A forward standard 33, having ratchet teeth 34 is arranged to permit the foot treadle to be locked in place. The rod 23 is coupled to the treadle at 35.
It will be understood that a downward and slightly sidewise motion is necessary to release the treadle once the same is locked in place for the purpose of exerting a pressure upon the shoe in the mold.
Having thus described my invention, I claim:
1. In the art of manufacturing turned leather shoes, the steps of assembling a shoe on a last, withdrawing the last, turning the shoe, inserting another last, then placing the lasted shoe in a pneumatic mold having a portion engaging the bottom of the shoe and inwardly curved side shoe-upper engaging portions around said bottom-engaging portion, and exerting pressure on the shoe against the sole engaging portion of the mold to cause the side engaging portions of the mold to grip and wipe the sides of the shoe upper to smooth the latter.
2. In the art of manufacturing turned leather shoes, the steps of securing an outsole to the upper wrong side out, turning the shoe, inserting a shank stiffener, inserting a last, placing the lasted shoe in a pneumatic mold having a portion engaging the bottom of the shoe and inward- 1y curved side upper engaging portions around said bottom-engaging portion, and exerting pressure on the shoe against the sole engaging portion of the mold to force the shank stifiener against the last, to mold the outsole, and to cause the side engaging portions of the mold to grip and wipe the sides of the shoe upper to smooth, the latter.
CHARLES MILLER.
US539187A 1931-05-22 1931-05-22 Turned shoe process Expired - Lifetime US1974720A (en)

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