US1790191A - Method for use in the manufacture of shoes - Google Patents

Method for use in the manufacture of shoes Download PDF

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US1790191A
US1790191A US82029A US8202926A US1790191A US 1790191 A US1790191 A US 1790191A US 82029 A US82029 A US 82029A US 8202926 A US8202926 A US 8202926A US 1790191 A US1790191 A US 1790191A
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shoe
pressure
shank
forepart
sole
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US82029A
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Erastus E Winkley
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United Shoe Machinery Corp
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United Shoe Machinery Corp
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43DMACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D35/00Presses for shaping pre-existing loose soles, shoe bottoms or soles fixed to shoe bottoms

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  • This invention relates to methods of ma-nufacturing shoesand is herein set forth1by way of exemphfication merely in its :appli cation toshoes in which the upper and outsole are attached. together by through-andthrough stitching, 1t bemg understood that in many ofits aspects it is applicable to themanufacture of shoes of othertypes. 7
  • Objects of thisinvention are to provide for obtaining readily and atsmall expense the bottom shaping eliects referred to.
  • theiuvention consists in performing the sole-leveling operation in two separate steps or stages, in one oi? which one section
  • the. use of direct pressure leveling by which pressure 7 band, which band is caused to 'travel longi .tudlnallyof theshoe,-to and fro from the f Hurray Si-Teras; Efaf QFF toe end to the ball'line, thus subjecting'the entire torepart'progressively to leveling pres sure.
  • poweriul tor-me ing pressure may be applied" to all parts of the entire shank portion of the sole simulta- V neonsly, which pressure is preferably concen-- trated especially upon the margins oftlie shank portion of the sole. In-ordereffectively upper at those portions which are adjacent to the ball line, the pressure upon the shank maybe eiiectedin an upward and forward directi'on'with respect tothe shoe.
  • the pressure applied to the shank portion may be allowed to overlap the ball line and the pressure member maybe so formed either todeiine and accentuate the ball line, as is sometimes required, or to obliterat'e the line of demarcation between the shank and the ball and efi'ectively smooth" down 'th ridge of materialpiled up acent tothe ball [A line by the action-of the roll.
  • the band of pressure applied to the forcpart be broad lengthwise'of the shoe, so that'it will J not follow the small irregularities which may occur in the shoe bottom but w ll act as the band progresses lengthwise of the shoe to impart thereto an even and regular surface.
  • the invention consists in applying to one end of the forepart pressure treatments which are-not appliedto the remainder of the forepart.
  • the pressure maybe made totra-vel back and 't'oi th'repeatedly at one end of the forepart alternately with the movements which carry theband the entire length ot'rthe forepa-rt.
  • thez-roll bywhich the band of pressure is applied is caused, by lflti tive movement of theroll and the shoe, to progress lengthwise ofthe shoe and to traverse the length of the torepart from too to ball line twice in each direction in each leveling operation and to progress from one end of the torepart part way toward the other end and back a plurality of times, for example, so many times in addition that oiieend portion oi the torepai't' is traversed eight times andthe other-end port-ion four times.
  • This additional repeated action of the pressure band may, as illustrated, be confined to the ball portion of the shoe.
  • the invention further comprises a method consisting in,
  • the invent-ion consists in applying to the j shank portion continuous pressure during the treatment ofthe forepart' oniy'by 'theprogi'essive pressure band as described.
  • This pressure uponjthe shank tends materially toshape the shank 13011-1011 of the shoe and, ii not in itself sutiicienttor the-shank shaping opera tion, tends toenhance the-e'ft'ectot' the more powerful. pressure later applied to complete th'eshank shaping operation.
  • a pad'or saddle extending from the ball line to the breast line is arranged to be applied to the'shoe' while it is being treated by the level-- ing' roll.
  • This saddle being held by manually applied spring pressure against the shank portion of the sole, serves to. press the margins ot'the sole down against the upper;
  • the invention consists in maintaining the fore part ofthe sole in a straight condition either transversely or longitudinally, or both. while the sole is being laid and also while the shank portion of thesole is being given the necessary transverse curvature to bring its margin into close relation to theupper.
  • This result insole laying is obtained by pressure applied perpendicularly to straight lines extending across the forepart, 'for example, as
  • i i line may lie at c c l Fig.2) a little outside of the inner edge of the; shanlnreducing bevel a-b, and hence the thread tension as.
  • Figs. 6, 7 and 8 One step in .this'operation is represented in Figs. 6, 7 and 8 where the forepart of the soleis subjected to leveling pressure by the use of a roll 66 the actionof which is confined to the forepart of the sole and is progressive toand fro lengthwise ofwthe shoe.
  • a Goodyear automatic leveling machine organized sub stantially as disclosed in Letters Patentof the; United States No.;l,667,761, granted May l, 1928, onan application filed by my self and H. A. Davenport, may be utilized in carryingout themethod described.
  • the movementslof the jack about its pivot-68 are restricted-so that relative movement between theshoe andthe roll 66 carried by a yoke 67 is confinedxto'the forepart of the sole.
  • a rollof large diameter is employed, for example, a roll having a cliametergreaterL than the length of'the. foi-epart.
  • the r oll is approximately eight inches in diameter; that is, thediameter-of the roll approximates the length of shoe bottoms of the smaller sizes.
  • One advantage of the use of such a roll consists in' avoiding too ISO abrupt a levelingdaction at the end of the sole such as 'nnght bend the sole unrluly, and another advantage is that the roll may be brought close to the ball line withoutdanger of its going too far and dropping into the shank.
  • the rol'l66 is mounted for limited axial movement on a shaft 68 in. a carriagef69 which has rolls 7O engaging suitable guide-j .w ays formed in the arms of the yoke 67.
  • the carriage is arranged for adjustment in the yokeso that the :axisofthe leveling roll may be arranged to extend in a direction parallel to the ball. line, this adjust ment being maintained by means .at '72 for clamping the carriageto the yoke.
  • the roll 66 when out of contact with the shoe, is 7 maintained by a spring 71 toward that end ofthe shaft 68 from which it tends to move,
  • the roll in "its repeated operationsjlengthwise of; the'shoe, stopping at the ball line, tends to give prominence to the ball line or line of transition, between .the forepart and shank. In case such promi-' e5 'nence of the ball line is not desired the operation ofthe rollmay be made to extend a little beyond the ball line to eliminate any .line of demarcation.betweeiitthe for'epart and the shank.
  • the line 7 3 represents the number and extent of movements ofthe-roll path where the greatest pressure is applied by the roll when' a small amount of" tipping movment is imparted toit.
  • the lateral separation of the lines is determined by the tip ping movement of theroll, andif the tipping moyement were'reduced to zero for the purpose of producing a flat i'orepart thelmes A
  • a ri id sunoort 74 is rovided beneath the a ii i L pad, the eiliect or wlnchis to concentratethe pressure upon the shank portion or the shoe.
  • the pad may still .tip as a whole on a transverse pivot '7 Slocated close to the sur face of the shank so that the shank pressure will be suitably distributed.
  • the transverse curvature of the shan-k'po-rtion of thepad is is applied by the pad. 'lVith the shoe in this position the shank pad tips correspondingly on its pivot 76 and the pressure is given a forward as well as a vertical component and is applied'ina direction heightwis-e and forwardly with respect to the shoe, so that the portions of the shank margin adjacent to the ball are adequately pressed against the upper.
  • the novel features embodied in the illustrated machine are not claimed hereinbut are claimed inniy copendin application Serial No. 2%,852, filed January 14, 1928, as a continuation in part ofthe'presentapplication; l
  • apparatus illustrated in Fig 6inay lee-employed For the purpose of applying to the shank portion continuous pressure simultaneously with the treatment of the forepart of rolling pressure, apparatus illustrated in Fig 6inay lee-employed.
  • This comprises a shankpad or saddles '78 whichis operated by a lever 80 to apply, through suitable springs 82 attached totheopposite ends of the saddle, pressure to theshank portion of the sole suflicient to i hold the shoe jacked upon the heel pin 84 andv toe rest 86 of the machine and to 'hold'the shank portion of the sole pressed firmlyupon' the last while the toe part is being treated by rolling pressure as described.
  • Thesaddle 7 8 and its operating-mechanism may be, foreX- ample, similar to that disclosed, in- United and itsforward edge may be-contouredto assist in forming a distinct ball line when such an effect is desired.
  • the shoe may be acked by the application of the saddle 78 as quickly as by otherjacking means, andthe application of shaping pressure to the shank portion of the shoe during the levelingoftheforepart materially lessens the time requlredin the shank-leveling operation tov producethe desired close shank.
  • the. concavity of the roll preferably corresponding to the convexity desired in the sole.
  • a roller less concavity thanthe convexity required for the soleniaybe employed provided the rollis givenmore or less tipping movement. Itis to beunderstood, of course, that the machine is provided with the usual adjustmentsifor controlling the tipping movement of. the roll laterally of the shoe as Well as for varying. the relative movements of the shoe and roll lengthwise of theshoe. v T o In leveling the shanks of shoes having flat foreparts it is important that the flat condition of the forepartshall be contributed to or at least not detracted. from during this operation. To this end, and also tor-laying the sole of such a shoe, the apparatus shown in Fig. 12 may advantageously be employed.
  • the pad 7 8 preferably extends from the ani-me as the breast-nae of theJ Ilieel-se'at' V diti'on of the forepart and render the fore.
  • the foreparts of some, lasts aretwisted; that is, the surface of the forepart, instead of being flat, is twisted-V somewhat aboutan axis extending lengthwise of the shoe.
  • the construction shown in Fi g. 14 maybe substituted for the plate 94.
  • the plate is madeup of severalsections or lags 96, 96, extending crosswise of the forepart, of small extent lengthwise of the shoe, and connected by a flexible piece 98.
  • That improvement in methods of leveling the bottoms of shoes which consists in leveling the forepa-rt of the sole by'the use of a roll the periphery of which conforms 3. That improvement in methods of level ing the bottoms of shoes which consists in leveling the forepart of the solo by the'use of a. roll too large in diameter for effective use in the shank while causing the roll to operate a greater number of times at one end of the forepart than at the other end, and thereafter leveling the shank portion of the sole by applying simultaneous pressure to all portions of the shank.
  • That improvement in. methods of leveling shoe bottoms which consists in applying pressure to the forepart of the sole bythe use ofa roll having a diameter approximating the length of the forepart of the shoe to cause the pressure to be applied in a broad band extending transversely of the shoe, and by relative n'ioven'ient'of the roll and shoe causing the fro-ntfedge of the band always forward of the ball line.
  • That improvement in methods of leveling shoe bottoms which consists in applying pressure to the'forepart of the sole in a brr'zad band extending transversely of the shoe, causing said pressure band to pass and repass lengthwise of the forepart while maintaining one edge of the band always forward of the ball line, simultaneously maintaining unvarying pressure on the shank portion, and then subjecting the entire shank portion to pressure of greater intensity.
  • That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in preparing a shoe having an upper lasted inwardly upon an insole, laying an outsole, attaching the outsole, upper and insole together by throughand-through stitches, leveling the forepart by subjecting successive portions thereof lengthwise of the shoe to rolling pressure, and thereafter leveling the shank part by pressure applied to both margins of the shank simultaneously and more strongly to the margins of the shank than to its central portion.
  • That improvement in methods of leveling shoe bottoms which consists in applying pressure simultaneously to all portions of the shank in an upward and forward direction with respect to the shoe to produce a close shank in the curved portion of the shank adjacent to the ball.
  • That improvement in methods of leveling shoe bottoms which consists in applying pressure to the forepart of the sole 1n a broad band extending transversely of the shoe bottom. causing said band to progress longitudinally of the shoe bottom between the toe and the ball line, and leveling the shank portion by pressure applied to the entire shank portion simultaneously, sald pressure being r'applied in i i firdandheight- Wise with spect'to the shoe to force the sole against the upper in the curved portion of the shank adjacent to the ball.
  • That improvement in methods of leveling shoe bottoms which consists in. applying pressure to the forepart of the sole in a band extending transversely of the shoe bottom, causing said band to progresslongltudinally of the-shoe to and fro between the toe and the ball line, and causing successive traverses of the pressure band upon one'end portion of the forepart. to the BXClllSlOIl of the other end portion. 7 V 1 22.
  • That-improvement in methods of levels ing shoe bottoms which consists in applying pressure to the forepart of the sole in a band extending transversely of the shoe bottom, causing said band to progress longitudinally of the shoe from the toe to the ball line and back, and causing successive traverses of the pressure band upon the ball portion of the forepart to the exclusion of the toe portion.
  • That improvement'in methods of leveling the bottoms of shoes which consists in applying a saddle over the shank portion of the sole, applying rolling pressure to the forepart only of the sole while the saddle is thus applied, and thereafter removing the saddle and applying leveling pressure to the shank portion of the sole. 7

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  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Description

Jan. 27, 1931. E. E. WINKLEY 1,790,191
M ETHOD FOR USE IN TEE MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed Jan. 18, 1926 s Sheets-Sheet 1 Will/722"! Jan. 27, 1931. E. E.:WINKLEY I ,191
dmmon FOR usn IN THE rumumcwuns OF s-aoss Filed Jan. 18,-1926 a Shoots-Sheet a" /NVENTUR- Jan. 27, I931. E. E WINKLEY 1,790,191
METHOD FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SHbES Fileql Jan. 18, 1926 3 Sheets-Sheet 5 Fig.1];
Patented Jan. 27, 1931 p ERASTUS n. WINK-Lair, or LYNN, massaonnsn'r'rsnssieuon TO UNITED silos MA;
crimes: CORPORATION, JERSEY or ra rnnsonr. "NEW JERSEY, A oonrorta'rionj on NEW METHOD Eon sn IN THE amendme ts sHoEs 'A ucatioa'mea' Januar is, 1926. (Serial m. 32,029;
. This invention relates to methods of ma-nufacturing shoesand is herein set forth1by way of exemphfication merely in its :appli cation toshoes in which the upper and outsole are attached. together by through-andthrough stitching, 1t bemg understood that in many ofits aspects it is applicable to themanufacture of shoes of othertypes. 7
In the manufacture of fine shoes for women a neat and trim appearance of the shankporion is highly desirable, and, contributing to this, a thin'edge shank and a close shank are important. That is, the sole must be thin atthe edge of the shank portion toform a thin edge. shank and the margin of the sole must lie close to the upper to form a closelshank; 7
The operation of shaping the shank ii the transverse curvature is pronounced, as .it is in most womens shoes, is not readily carried out by means of a;level1ng roll such as is commonly used in sole leveling'machines because the leveling roll is apt to strikethe side of the last before it can actto bend the margin of thesole sufficiently to bring it close,
to the upper, as required for forming a" close shank. By the use of a shank beating machine aiter the leveling, better results may be secured, but this is extremely laborious for the operator.
is applied simultaneously to the shank and forepart of ashoe bottom, requires a very expensive equipment of iron lasts and corresponding sole molds which, in order to secure good results, must be very carefully made and theuse of which, if uniformpressure is to be obtained, requires exact similarity in the bottoms of diiierent shoes. I
Objects of thisinvention are to provide for obtaining readily and atsmall expense the bottom shaping eliects referred to. In one aspect theiuvention consists in performing the sole-leveling operation in two separate steps or stages, in one oi? which one section On the other hand, the. use of direct pressure leveling, by which pressure 7 band, which band is caused to 'travel longi .tudlnallyof theshoe,-to and fro from the f Hurray Si-Teras; Efaf QFF toe end to the ball'line, thus subjecting'the entire torepart'progressively to leveling pres sure. Then, as another step, poweriul tor-me ing pressure may be applied" to all parts of the entire shank portion of the sole simulta- V neonsly, which pressure is preferably concen-- trated especially upon the margins oftlie shank portion of the sole. In-ordereffectively upper at those portions which are adjacent to the ball line, the pressure upon the shank maybe eiiectedin an upward and forward directi'on'with respect tothe shoe. 1 In the treatment of thejforepart, which-is readily effected, for example, bygmea'ns' of a roll, there maybe a displacementof the material of the sole toward the bally-hence the formation of a/moire .orless" wel -.defined ridge at the. ball where the relativetraverse of the roll and the forepart ends. In order ball line. Thus, the. pressureapplied at different parts ad acent to'the ball line-will be to force the margins ofthe sole against-then uniform and there will be no danger of the roll going beyond the ball line at any point.
The pressure applied to the shank portion may be allowed to overlap the ball line and the pressure member maybe so formed either todeiine and accentuate the ball line, as is sometimes required, or to obliterat'e the line of demarcation between the shank and the ball and efi'ectively smooth" down 'th ridge of materialpiled up acent tothe ball [A line by the action-of the roll.
in the treatment (if-shoes in wljiich the surface upon which the outsole is :laid is more or less irregular and 'uneven' -as it;
cxample,-in mostshoes which'are stitched through and through, itis desirable that the band of pressure applied to the forcpart be broad lengthwise'of the shoe, so that'it will J not follow the small irregularities which may occur in the shoe bottom but w ll act as the band progresses lengthwise of the shoe to impart thereto an even and regular surface.
This result is obtained, as herein disclosed,
- the shoe.
by employing a roll of relatively, lar e diameter so that thearea of contact of the roll with the shoe bottom is in'the form of a broad band as distinguished from a rela tively narrow band produced by a small roll Such as required whe'n the action 'of tlie roll .is applied to the shank as well as the torepart. A further distinct advantage attendant upon the use of a large rollis that the relative movements between the roll anfdthe shoe do not need to be. so carefully adjusted to avoid the action of the roll extending beyond the ball line or to prevent the roll 'it'roin' dropping oil the shoe at the toe or damaging the toe entL of the sole in passing on or off project somewhat beyond the general level of the shoe bottom. The broad band of pres-. sure produced by the large roll is particularly effective in dealing with this condition, since tend beyond the ball line part it is wide enough to extendover substantially the whole of thebunched portion and to span the cavity usually found at the rear of the bunch.
-Inanother aspect the invention consists in applying to one end of the forepart pressure treatments which are-not appliedto the remainder of the forepart. j For example, the pressure maybe made totra-vel back and 't'oi th'repeatedly at one end of the forepart alternately with the movements which carry theband the entire length ot'rthe forepa-rt. As herein illustrated, thez-roll bywhich the band of pressure is applied is caused, by lflti tive movement of theroll and the shoe, to progress lengthwise ofthe shoe and to traverse the length of the torepart from too to ball line twice in each direction in each leveling operation and to progress from one end of the torepart part way toward the other end and back a plurality of times, for example, so many times in addition that oiieend portion oi the torepai't' is traversed eight times andthe other-end port-ion four times. This additional repeated action of the pressure band may, as illustrated, be confined to the ball portion of the shoe. pensates for the smaller pressure per unit of area which is applied by the roll near the ball 7 There is also usually under the .toe portion of. thessole bunched material formed bygathering the upper in lasting which, even after it has been reduced by. trimming and pounding operations, is apt to In this case it conimovements to and fro over the ball line, serves to produce a well rounded the forepart and the shank.
juncture between As contributing to the production o't thin edge and close edge shanks the invention further comprises a method consisting in,
ski ving the margin of the outsole, on theside next to the upper, from the outer edge to a line beyond the line where the sole is to be stitched to the shoe, then laying the sole and stitching it to the shoe by a line of throughand-through stitches located outside of the inner edge otthe skived port-ion so that the tightening of the stitches will tend to draw r the margin of the sole toward the upper.
In another aspect the invent-ion consists in applying to the j shank portion continuous pressure during the treatment ofthe forepart' oniy'by 'theprogi'essive pressure band as described. This pressure uponjthe shank, even if relatively light, tends materially toshape the shank 13011-1011 of the shoe and, ii not in itself sutiicienttor the-shank shaping opera tion, tends toenhance the-e'ft'ectot' the more powerful. pressure later applied to complete th'eshank shaping operation. As illustrated,
a pad'or saddle extending from the ball line to the breast line is arranged to be applied to the'shoe' while it is being treated by the level-- ing' roll. This saddle, being held by manually applied spring pressure against the shank portion of the sole, serves to. press the margins ot'the sole down against the upper;
tohold the shoe in placeon the jack duringthe operation of leveling-the t'orepart; to pre- 1 vent displacement of the sole; and may, by the contour and pressure of its forward end,-
tend to emphasize the ballline when such an etl'ect is'desire'd; lVlieinla ter, powerful pressure is applied to the shank portioiizthe desire'd'etl'ec't is secured more'quicklythan is the case when the use of preliminary pressure on the shank during the leveling of the forepart is omitted."
The operation of shaping the shank portion only of the sole to the required transverse curvature to' produce a close shank has been described performed subsequent to the operation ofleveling the iorepa-rt. It is to be understood, however, as within the invention to perform these operations or steps in either order. I
"In still another a spect,"as' applied to the manufacture of some styles of shoes, the invention consists in maintaining the fore part ofthe sole in a straight condition either transversely or longitudinally, or both. while the sole is being laid and also while the shank portion of thesole is being given the necessary transverse curvature to bring its margin into close relation to theupper. This result insole laying is obtained by pressure applied perpendicularly to straight lines extending across the forepart, 'for example, as
illustrated, by pi'ovidiiig aflat, rigid plate last removed fromthe shoe and the shoe presented to a sole-sewingmachine, which preferably will be a lockstitch machineof the type disclosed, for example,in United States Letters Patent No. 1,482,619, granted February 5, 1924, on application ofJamesH; Reed, a rranged to sew through and through the in sole, upper and outsole, as indicatedin Fig. 4,.
in which 60 is the horn, 62 the needle, and'fi l a guide which runs along the base of'the channel flap. i i line may lie at c c l Fig.2) a little outside of the inner edge of the; shanlnreducing bevel a-b, and hence the thread tension as. the
stitches are drawn tight will-tend to bend the margin of theoutsole toward the upper and willassist in securing and maintaining a close and thin edge shank; The outsole having .thus been firmly secured to the upper and insole, the channel will be cemented and the channel flap l'ald as usual. v a 3 The shoe is now ready to receive treatment by which the final shape is given to the shank and forepart ofthe shoe bottom.
One step in .this'operation is represented in Figs. 6, 7 and 8 where the forepart of the soleis subjected to leveling pressure by the use of a roll 66 the actionof which is confined to the forepart of the sole and is progressive toand fro lengthwise ofwthe shoe. As illustrated in Fig. 6, a Goodyear automatic leveling machine organized sub stantially as disclosed in Letters Patentof the; United States No.;l,667,761, granted May l, 1928, onan application filed by my self and H. A. Davenport, may be utilized in carryingout themethod described. To this end the movementslof the jack about its pivot-68 are restricted-so that relative movement between theshoe andthe roll 66 carried by a yoke 67 is confinedxto'the forepart of the sole.
In order, that the band pi'essureap. .plied by the roll to .the. forepart may be wide lengthwise of the shoe, a rollof large diameter is employed, for example, a roll having a cliametergreaterL than the length of'the. foi-epart. In the example illustrated, the r oll is approximately eight inches in diameter; that is, thediameter-of the roll approximates the length of shoe bottoms of the smaller sizes. One advantage of the use of such a roll consists in' avoiding too ISO abrupt a levelingdaction at the end of the sole such as 'nnght bend the sole unrluly, and another advantage is that the roll may be brought close to the ball line withoutdanger of its going too far and dropping into the shank.
pressure by the. large rollin a broad band- Furthermore, the application of serves to reduce more effectively the bunch "of upper material beneath the sole which may occur at the toe end of the shoe. Also, the roll, because of its diameter, is unable to followany of the; minor irregularities of The shank portion ofthe sewing the shoe bottom over which the outsole is placed. For example, there is frequently acavity atthe rear of the bunch of material atthetoe. i 2A large roll, however, with its 1 broad band of pressure, bridges this and other irregularities of; the shoe bottom and impartsthe desired evenness to the forepart ofthe outsole. V i
' The rol'l66 is mounted for limited axial movement on a shaft 68 in. a carriagef69 which has rolls 7O engaging suitable guide-j .w ays formed in the arms of the yoke 67.
The carriage is arranged for adjustment in the yokeso that the :axisofthe leveling roll may be arranged to extend in a direction parallel to the ball. line, this adjust ment being maintained by means .at '72 for clamping the carriageto the yoke. The roll 66, when out of contact with the shoe, is 7 maintained by a spring 71 toward that end ofthe shaft 68 from which it tends to move,
because of its inclination, whenbrought contact with the shoe; i
It is sometimes desirableto emphasize the ball line of the shoe to produce .atdesired' style effect. The roll, in "its repeated operationsjlengthwise of; the'shoe, stopping at the ball line, tends to give prominence to the ball line or line of transition, between .the forepart and shank. In case such promi-' e5 'nence of the ball line is not desired the operation ofthe rollmay be made to extend a little beyond the ball line to eliminate any .line of demarcation.betweeiitthe for'epart and the shank.
band to and fro lengthwise of the shoe is indicated in Fig. 8 by a line 73, the pressure band being the area to which pressure s applied th'e'roll 66. In explaining these movements'it will be convenient to refer to the roll as moving lengthwise of the shoe,
though it is to be understood that'in the machine as organized the shoe moves relatively to the roll. The line 7 3 represents the number and extent of movements ofthe-roll path where the greatest pressure is applied by the roll when' a small amount of" tipping movment is imparted toit. The lateral separation of the lines is determined by the tip ping movement of theroll, andif the tipping moyement were'reduced to zero for the purpose of producing a flat i'orepart thelmes A The number of passages of the pressure lengthwise of the shoe-bottom, and also the. i
iau
10, which represent a sole laying machine'of tion, than when it is shorter, as itis on the the kind shown in Letters Patent N VQQJQES, above referred to. In this operation it 18 defsirable to concentrate the action of the sole pad upon the shank of theshoeand substan tially to relieve the pressure upon the heel part and the forepart. This result may be obtaind by so shaping the pad that it does not bear on the end portions ot'the shoe bottom or by shortening the pad. As illustrated,
a ri id sunoort 74 is rovided beneath the a ii i L pad, the eiliect or wlnchis to concentratethe pressure upon the shank portion or the shoe.
, The pad, however, may still .tip as a whole on a transverse pivot '7 Slocated close to the sur face of the shank so that the shank pressure will be suitably distributed. The transverse curvature of the shan-k'po-rtion of thepad is is applied by the pad. 'lVith the shoe in this position the shank pad tips correspondingly on its pivot 76 and the pressure is given a forward as well as a vertical component and is applied'ina direction heightwis-e and forwardly with respect to the shoe, so that the portions of the shank margin adjacent to the ball are adequately pressed against the upper. The novel features embodied in the illustrated machine are not claimed hereinbut are claimed inniy copendin application Serial No. 2%,852, filed January 14, 1928, as a continuation in part ofthe'presentapplication; l
For the purpose of applying to the shank portion continuous pressure simultaneously with the treatment of the forepart of rolling pressure, apparatus illustrated in Fig 6inay lee-employed. This comprises a shankpad or saddles '78 whichis operated by a lever 80 to apply, through suitable springs 82 attached totheopposite ends of the saddle, pressure to theshank portion of the sole suflicient to i hold the shoe jacked upon the heel pin 84 andv toe rest 86 of the machine and to 'hold'the shank portion of the sole pressed firmlyupon' the last while the toe part is being treated by rolling pressure as described. Thesaddle 7 8 and its operating-mechanism may be, foreX- ample, similar to that disclosed, in- United and itsforward edge may be-contouredto assist in forming a distinct ball line when such an effect is desired. The shoe may be acked by the application of the saddle 78 as quickly as by otherjacking means, andthe application of shaping pressure to the shank portion of the shoe during the levelingoftheforepart materially lessens the time requlredin the shank-leveling operation tov producethe desired close shank.
: If the bottom of the forepart of the shoe is to be substantiallyrflaha cylindrical roll such as that illustrated in Fig. 11 maybe used,
when the usual tipping movement ofthe yoke 67 will be eliminated or greatly reduced so that the pressure of. the roll will be substantially or. nearly uniform at 4 all .points transversely of the shoe: vIn case the shoe materials: require more. pressure along the marginsof the .sole inorder toproduce ai -flat forepart, a slight amount oftippingmovenentniay be imparted tothecylindrical levcling roll in order to increase its "pre sure alongthemarginsofthesole. If, it is desired to impart a uniforinlconvexity to the forepart, aroll such asvthat indicatedin Fig. 7
' may be employed, without tipping movement,
the. concavity of the roll preferably corresponding to the convexity desired in the sole.
However, a roller" less concavity thanthe convexity required for the soleniaybe employed provided the rollis givenmore or less tipping movement. Itis to beunderstood, of course, that the machine is provided with the usual adjustmentsifor controlling the tipping movement of. the roll laterally of the shoe as Well as for varying. the relative movements of the shoe and roll lengthwise of theshoe. v T o In leveling the shanks of shoes having flat foreparts it is important that the flat condition of the forepartshall be contributed to or at least not detracted. from during this operation. To this end, and also tor-laying the sole of such a shoe, the apparatus shown in Fig. 12 may advantageously be employed. Here a part of the mechanism of a sole laying machine of thetype referred to is illustrated, having between the leather outer cover 90 of arubber pad 92 and the pad itself a plate 94 which is flat but extends throughout the forepart of the shoe. Thus, while the shank portions of the shoe are being subjected to the action of the pad, either-in the laying or leveling operation, to produce thetransversely curved close shank effect previously referred to, the forepart of the shoe is receiving pres.-
sure from the flat plate 94which, ifth'e shoe has already had its forepart leveled, will tend to preserve its'previous fiat condition, and
States. LettersPatent No. l,263,36l, granted 1 April 23, l9l8,onapplication of W. O. Baxter. The pad 7 8preferably extends from the ani-me as the breast-nae of theJ Ilieel-se'at' V diti'on of the forepart and render the fore.
if the shoe has not been leveled byfthe roll at.
the forepart, will tend to produce a flat conpart leveling operation easy. The subjectmatter relating to the plate 94: is not claimed herein but isbeing claimed in a divisional ap plication Serial No. 439,551, filedMarch 27, V
" The foreparts of some, lasts aretwisted; that is, the surface of the forepart, instead of being flat, is twisted-V somewhat aboutan axis extending lengthwise of the shoe. To meet this condition the construction shown in Fi g. 14 maybe substituted for the plate 94. Here the plate is madeup of severalsections or lags 96, 96, extending crosswise of the forepart, of small extent lengthwise of the shoe, and connected by a flexible piece 98.
WVith this construction, while each section or lag of the plate may remain transversely flat and straight, the plate, considered as a whole, may be twisted to conform to the twist of the forepart of the last. 1
Having thus described my invention, what I claim'as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent ofthe United States is: r
1. That improvement in methods of leveling the bottoms of shoes which consists in leveling the forepa-rt of the sole by'the use of a roll the periphery of which conforms 3. That improvement in methods of level ing the bottoms of shoes which consists in leveling the forepart of the solo by the'use of a. roll too large in diameter for effective use in the shank while causing the roll to operate a greater number of times at one end of the forepart than at the other end, and thereafter leveling the shank portion of the sole by applying simultaneous pressure to all portions of the shank.
4;, That improvement in methods of shaping the outsoles of shoes which consists in leveling the forepa-rt'onlyfof the shoe, and
after completing-the leveling of the forepart leveling the shank part only of the shoe.
5. That improvement in methods of shap ing the outsol-es of shoes which consists in leveling the forepart'of the shoe by pressure applied progressively to different portions thereof in succession, and leveling the shank portion by pressure applied to all portions thereof simultaneously. I
6. That improvement in methods of level- ,.ing shoe bottoms which consists in applying pressure to the forepart of the sole, to the exclusionof the shank, by the use of a roll of greaterdiaineterthan the length of'the forepart to cause the pressure to be applied I in a broad band extending transversely of the shoe bottom, and by relative movemen't'of the roll and shoe causing said band to, progress longitudinally of the shoe bottom between toe and ball line. s
7. That improvement in. methods of leveling shoe bottoms which consists in applying pressure to the forepart of the sole bythe use ofa roll having a diameter approximating the length of the forepart of the shoe to cause the pressure to be applied in a broad band extending transversely of the shoe, and by relative n'ioven'ient'of the roll and shoe causing the fro-ntfedge of the band always forward of the ball line.
' .SJThat improvement in methods of'shaping the outsoles of shoes which consists in leveling the forepart of the shoe exclusively by pressure applied in 'a transverse band which progresses lengthwise of the shoe and leveling the; shank portionby pressure applied to all portions thereof simultaneously.
9'. That improvement in methods of level ing'shoe bottoms which consists in applying pressure to the fore-part of the sole in'a broad band extending transversely of the shoe, causingsaid pressure band to pass and repass lengthwise of the forepart while maintaining the forward edge of the band always forward of the ball line, and simultaneously maintaining continuous pressure on the shank por tion. 10. That improvement in methods of shaping the outsoles of shoes which consists in leveling the forepart of the sole by a progressive lei 'elilng operation with pressure uniformly applied transversely ofthe sole and after completing the leveling of the forepart leveling the shank part of the shoe by pressure accentuated on both margins thereof simultaneously. 7 a
11. That improvement in methods of leveling shoe bottoms which consists in applying pressure to the forepart of the shoe bottom in abroad band extending transversely of the shoe bottom, causing said band to progress repeatedly to and fro longitudinally of the shoebettom between the toe and ball line, and leveling the shank portion by powerful direct pressure applied to the entire shank portion simultaneously and concentrated uponits opposite margins. V
12". That improvement in methods of level- P I "line, and leveling the shank portion by pres- "sure applied to the entire shank portion simultaneously and concentrated at the margins of the shank.
13. That improvement in methods of v leveling shoe bottoms which consists in applyingpressure tothe forepart in abroad band extending transversely of the shoe bottom,
causing said band to progress longitudinally of the shoe bottom from-toe to ball line, and
.then leveling the shank portion bydirect pressure applied to the entire shank portion simultaneously and overlapping the ballhne to obliterate any line of demarcation ber tween the shank and ball. g V
14. That mprovement iii-methods ofleveling shoe bottoms which consists in applying pressure in a broad band extending trans-' versely of the shoe, causing the pressure band v 'the sole by pressure applied to said other part as a whole. p
18. That improvement in methods of leveling shoe bottoms which consists in applying pressure to the'forepart of the sole in a brr'zad band extending transversely of the shoe, causing said pressure band to pass and repass lengthwise of the forepart while maintaining one edge of the band always forward of the ball line, simultaneously maintaining unvarying pressure on the shank portion, and then subjecting the entire shank portion to pressure of greater intensity.
17. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in preparing a shoe having an upper lasted inwardly upon an insole, laying an outsole, attaching the outsole, upper and insole together by throughand-through stitches, leveling the forepart by subjecting successive portions thereof lengthwise of the shoe to rolling pressure, and thereafter leveling the shank part by pressure applied to both margins of the shank simultaneously and more strongly to the margins of the shank than to its central portion.
18. That improvement in methods of leveling shoe bottoms which consists in applying pressure simultaneously to all portions of the shank in an upward and forward direction with respect to the shoe to produce a close shank in the curved portion of the shank adjacent to the ball.
19. That improvement in methods of leveling shoe bottoms which consists in applying pressure to the forepart of the sole 1n a broad band extending transversely of the shoe bottom. causing said band to progress longitudinally of the shoe bottom between the toe and the ball line, and leveling the shank portion by pressure applied to the entire shank portion simultaneously, sald pressure being r'applied in i i firdandheight- Wise with spect'to the shoe to force the sole against the upper in the curved portion of the shank adjacent to the ball.
20. That improvement in methods of leveling the bottoms ofshoes which consists in operating upon the 'forepart only of the sole with rolling pressure repeated a greater number of times at one end of the forepart than.
at the other end;
21. That improvement in methods of leveling shoe bottoms which consists in. applying pressure to the forepart of the sole in a band extending transversely of the shoe bottom, causing said band to progresslongltudinally of the-shoe to and fro between the toe and the ball line, and causing successive traverses of the pressure band upon one'end portion of the forepart. to the BXClllSlOIl of the other end portion. 7 V 1 22. That improvement in methods of leveling shoe bottoms which conslsts in applying pressure to the forepa-rt of the sole in a broad band extending transversely of the shoe bot- 7 tom, causing said 'bandto progress repeatedly longitudinally of the shoe from the toeto the ball lineand-back, and caus ng successive rep ated traverses of the pressureband upon one end portion of the forepart to the exclusion of the other end portion.
23. That-improvement in methods of levels ing shoe bottoms which consists in applying pressure to the forepart of the sole in a band extending transversely of the shoe bottom, causing said band to progress longitudinally of the shoe from the toe to the ball line and back, and causing successive traverses of the pressure band upon the ball portion of the forepart to the exclusion of the toe portion.
24. That improvement in methods of leveling the bottoms of shoes which consists in applying holding pressure to the shank portion of the sole of the shoe, and while the shank is thus held, leveling the forepart only of v plying a saddle over the shank portion of the sole to assist in holding the shoe and in shaping the shank, and while theysaddle is thus applied, subjecting the forepart only of the sole to rolling'pressure. V V
26. That improvement'in methods of leveling the bottoms of shoes which consists in applying a saddle over the shank portion of the sole, applying rolling pressure to the forepart only of the sole while the saddle is thus applied, and thereafter removing the saddle and applying leveling pressure to the shank portion of the sole. 7
In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.
ERASTUS E. lVINKLEY.
US82029A 1926-01-18 1926-01-18 Method for use in the manufacture of shoes Expired - Lifetime US1790191A (en)

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2520995A (en) * 1948-12-22 1950-09-05 United Shoe Machinery Corp Manufacture of shoes
US3106730A (en) * 1962-09-10 1963-10-15 Bain Corp Method for detaching an insole adhesively secured to a shoe last

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2520995A (en) * 1948-12-22 1950-09-05 United Shoe Machinery Corp Manufacture of shoes
US3106730A (en) * 1962-09-10 1963-10-15 Bain Corp Method for detaching an insole adhesively secured to a shoe last

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