US1946557A - Trimming machine - Google Patents

Trimming machine Download PDF

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US1946557A
US1946557A US538633A US53863331A US1946557A US 1946557 A US1946557 A US 1946557A US 538633 A US538633 A US 538633A US 53863331 A US53863331 A US 53863331A US 1946557 A US1946557 A US 1946557A
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cutter
trimming
work
operating
feed
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US538633A
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John P Weis
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METROPOLITAN SEWING MACHINE CO
METROPOLITAN SEWING MACHINE Corp
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METROPOLITAN SEWING MACHINE CO
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B37/00Devices incorporated in sewing machines for slitting, grooving, or cutting
    • D05B37/04Cutting devices
    • D05B37/08Cutting devices with rotatable tools
    • D05B37/085Pinking
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10STECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10S83/00Cutting
    • Y10S83/902Attachments for other types of machine

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  • This invention relates to sewing machines, more particularly to design trimming mechanism therefor adapted to trim the material adjacent to the line of stitches and also cut therefrom any surplus material, the trimming mechanism producing a design or irregular out instead of a straight out along the edge of the material at a predetermined distance from the stitch line and in which the stitching mechanism and an intermittently-operated design trimming mechanism are operative in unison simultaneously to sew and design trim the edge of the sewed seam, thereby doing away with the necessity of first stitching the article and then subsequently trimming it on a separate instrumentality.
  • the principal object of the invention is the provision of an improved sewing machine having combined stitching and design trimming mechanism operative in unison, whereby all kinds of irregular designs along the cut edge of the work such as pinked edges, a curved edge or a scalloped edge, as distinguished from a straight edge or cut may be obtained in apparel or other articles of manufacture.
  • a further object of the invention is the provision of a design trimming mechanism of the character described which may be operated independently of the feeding mechanism of the sewing machine.
  • Another object of the invention is the provision of an improved sewing machine having design trimming, feeding and stitching mechanisms, in which the trimming mechanism co-operates with a four-motion feed in the feeding of the goods past the stitching mechanism, whereby the edges of the goods may be trimmed margin of suitable width line of the seam to fabric.
  • a further object of the invention is the provision of a sewing machine having trimming mechanism capable of making one or a plurality of spaced rows of stitches, thereby to give added strength to the seam made in the material and prevent the pulling out of the seam without the necessity of having an increased margin or width of material between the stitched lines and the trimmed edge which is objectionable as a waste of material, bulkiness of scam or frayed edges.
  • a further object of the invention is the provision of a multiple needle sewing machine for making a plurality of spaced rows of stitches having a design trimming mechanism effective to trim the edges simultaneously with the stitchwith a extending from the prevent the fraying of the ing thereof, whereby all kinds of delicate fabrics may be stitched and trimmed with a pinked or design trimmed edge in a durable manner with a minimum of material between the stitches and the trimmed edge.
  • a further object of the invention is the provision of a sewing and trimming mechanism having a rotary cutting device effective to sever the material along the stitched seam line and under the control of the operator for varying the speed and feed of the trimming mechanism while leav- 35 ing the hands of the operator free to guide the work.
  • Aother object of the invention is the provision of sewing machine having a rotary cutting device capable of differential movement with respect to the regular feed of the sewing machine, thereby to facilitate the feeding around curves and corners of the work.
  • a further object of the invention is the provision of a sewing machine with a rotary cutting device for severing the material with an irregular design cut to prevent fraying of the fabric and simultaneously to feed the fabric in unison with the regular feed of the machine or to at times feed the material independently of the four-mo v tion feed or at other times to feed the material in unison with the four-motion feed without e1- fecting a cut in the fabric.
  • a further object of the invention is the provision of a design trimming mechanism which may also be used as a feeding mechanism either with or without a cutting action on the material being stitched.
  • a further object of the invention is the provision of an improved design trimming mechanism I with means effective to interrupt its cutting action and also to interrupt its feeding action, in-
  • clu g means for operating the trimmer as an intermittent feed to feed the work past the stitch ing mechanism without severing the fabric.
  • This invention is an improvement in the trimming mechanism shown in my application filed October 15, 1930, Serial Number 488,739.
  • Prior to my invention it was the common commercial practice in the production of design cut seams to use a separate machine and consequently the extra cost of operating it and the handling of the work, as there was no sewing machine on the market .provided with a design or pattern cutting mechanism. Therefore, when it was necessary to design trim the work, a requirement that has existed for many years in certain kinds of work, it has always been necessary to provide a separate machine operated independently of the sewing machine at an extra cost and the indedesign-trimmed,
  • the present improvement is shown in connection with the-well-known Metropolitan machine, especially designed for industrial use, to which it may be attached without alteration of its material members are well known, being illustrated and described in numerous patents, it is necessary-only to briefly refer to the main parts of this machine. While in the present improvement the mounting of the trimming mechanism with its cutting elements is located as in my earlier application, parallel with the needle to facilitate the trimming of curves and corners or sharp turns in the work, in the present case the design and construction of the mounting of the top rotary knife differs in that it is connected for support in the rear instead of at the front of the needle. By this arrangement of mounting, greater clearance is provided in front and to the right of the stitching position for the mounting of guides and attachments that may be employed for speci kinds of workfor use in combination with the ,feeding, stitching and trimming means.
  • Means is also cutting action when desired
  • portions of the garment may be either trimmed or untrimmed without interrupting the stitching operation.
  • FIG. 1 is an end view of a sewing machine having this improved design trimming mechanism applied thereto.
  • Fig. 2 is a top view of the trimming mechanism applied to the cloth'plate of the sewing machine with the overhanging arm of the machine omitted.
  • Fig. 3 is a front view of "that portion of the sewing machine to which the trimming mechanism is applied.
  • Fig. 4 illustrates a portion of the stitched material having one design of trimmed edge, comand as these sewing machines moily designated as a pinked edge, or pinking,
  • Fig. 5 is a detail of the controlling means operative by the hand or foot of the operator for interrupting the cutting action of the cutter.
  • the base or frame 1 of the sewing machine is provided with a top or overhanging arm 2 having the usual needle bar 3 carrying one or more needles 4 and a presser foot 5 provided with lifting means 6 therefor.
  • the arm 2 In the base land the arm 2 are located rotary shafts for driving the several parts.
  • a feeding mechanism 7 is provided for operating the usual feed dog 8 for feeding the work and co-operating with the needle is a looper or loopers 9 for producing the stitches and which is operated by suitable looper driving means 10.
  • the cloth or work plate 11 is secured'to the base or frame 1 of the machine by screws 12 so that the cloth plate is rigidly supported and this plate is provided with a throat plate 13, see Fig. 2,
  • the cloth plate 11 has an integral bracket bearing 1'7, see Fig. 1, terminating in a bearing 18, Figs. 2 and 3, in which is secured a shaft 19, clamped by a screw 20, pivotally mounted on the shaft 19 is a swinging bracket 21, Fig. 2, having hubs 22 and 23 closely fitting the sides of the bearing 18.
  • the swinging bracket 21 is provided with bearings 24 and 25 spaced apart to receive a collar 26 clamped to the cutter supporting shaft 2'7 that rotates in the bearings 24 and 25.
  • the collar 26 prevents end movement of the shaft 27 except by adjustment of the collar on the shaft and provides a means for changing the relative location of the design cutter 28 with respect to the needle holes 15 and the needle 4.
  • the cutter is mounted on and clamped to the shaft 2'? by a screw 29.
  • the design cutter 28 coacts with a rotary cylinder 30 which turns on a stud 31 secured in a lug 32 by a screw 33.
  • the width of this cylinder is greater than that of the design cutter 28, thus affording a means for adjusting laterally the location of the design cutter 28 relative to this cylinder which permits changing the relative distance between the design cutter and the needle for making a wide or narrow seam.
  • Suitable means is provided for conducting lubricant from the cloth plate 11 down through the lug 32 into the stud 31 and to the rotary cylinder 30.
  • a driving clutch 34 Secured to the right hand. end of the shaft 27 is a driving clutch 34 having a hub 35.
  • This clutch is similar in design to that shown in my pending application but reduced in size to permit operation at higher speeds. overhanging the flange of the clutch are several gripping dogs or pawls 36, operated by and connected with an oscillating clutch member 37 connected by a stud screw 39 to an oscillating or driving link 38 for giving intermittent movement to the clutch,
  • the driving link 38 is connected at 44 by shoulder screw 45 to a T-shaped slide block 46 operating in a slot 47 of a segmental lever 48, see Fig. 1.
  • Thissegmental lever is secured to the rock shaft 49 of the feed operating mechanism of the machine and this shaft operates in the usual bearings 50 of the machine base 1.
  • This segmental lever 48 provides means for adjusting the shoulder screw 45 and the block 46 to its lowermost position, in which position, the axis of the shaft 49 parallelly aligns with the axis of the screw 45 and, in this position, no movement will be given to the rotary knife 28 for feeding or cutting action.
  • the feed driving mechanism 7 is of usual construction for operating the feed dog 8 through the medium of the usual feed rocker frame 56 and the feed bar 57 which carries the feed dog 8 having the usual four-motion well-known to machines of this kind.
  • the adjustable crank' usually carried at the end of the bottom shaft for adjusting the length of stroke of the feed dog 8 is indicated at 58 in Figs. 1 and 3.
  • the presser foot mechanism 5 coasting with the feed dog 8 to feed the work has the usual downward pressure given to it by a suitable spring, not shown, so that the foot will follow the action of the feed at speed and clamp the work in the regular way, as is well known with all sewing
  • a fiat spring 59 having one end resting on an abutment 60.
  • a screw 61 is tapped into an overhanging bracket at 62 and has a-lock nut 63 for regulating downward tension on the spring to give pressure to the feeding and cutting action of the rotary'knife 28.
  • the screw is carried by a bracket 64 secured at 65 to the machine frame.
  • the forward end 66 of the spring 59 rests on the bearing 24 to give pressure as near as possible to the knife 28.
  • the long length of this spring from the adjusting screw 61 to its end 66 permits the knife to be lifted from the work free from feeding or cutting action, without too much increase in- That is to say, when the knife is lifted from the work, the pressure is slightly greater than that required to feed or even cut the work. Therefore, a spring of the length shown is desirable. 4
  • the screw 61 may be regulated so that the design cutting knife will merely have pressure enough on the work to feed it through without downward pressure.
  • I provide mechanical means for lifting the knife to any desired degree within the limits pro- K vided with a segmental depending portion 73, see, a 100 Figs. 1 and 5, against which the cable 71 rests;
  • a stop 74 limits the downward movement of the lever when it contacts at 75 on the edge of the cloth plate 11.
  • This lever 68 is provided with an arm 76 carrying a roller 77 pivoted to the arm. This roller rides on the top surface of the cloth plate. The downward pressure, of the spring 59 normally holds this roller 77 against the cloth plate with the lever 68 in the position shown in Fig. 1, and which remains in this position during the time the rotary cutter 28 is operating.
  • a slight pressure on the treadle 72 will swing the lever 68 and the swinging bracket 21, thereby lifting the cutter 28 .from the cylinder 30 sufficiently to interrupt the cutting action, yet permitting a feeding action, while further movement of the parts will suspend the cutting and feeding action, placing the .knife entirely out of contact with the material feeding through the machine.
  • the roller 77 comes to a position underneath the pivot of the lever to hold the parts in that position under the tension of the spring 59 ,te keep the cutter 28 in an elevated position until the lever is released by hand or the stops 74 and 75 may be so arranged as to permit the lever to return automatically to its inital position, as shown in Fig. 1, according to the requirements under which the machine is used.
  • Fig. 5 illustrates the position the parts of the lever 68 assume when the design cutting knife is lifted out of feeding and cutting action.
  • Fig. 1 Attached to the bracket 21 at 2l-A, see Fig. 1. is a circular shaped guard 21-B that partly covers the design cutting knife and thus protects the fingers of the operator against injury. This guard is omitted in Figs. 2 and 3 to show more clearly the other parts.
  • Fig. 4 is represented a piece of work A with a design cut edge B and a portion C with a design cut edge severed therefrom, thus illustrating how the cutter 28 may effect a design cut in and away from the rough edge D of the work.
  • a row of stitches made by one needle is indicated by E and another row of stitches made by a second needle is indicated by F.
  • Certain classes of fabrics fray very easily and it has been found in practice that by making two rows of stitches spaced apart a suitable distance that the margin from the stitch line to the trimmed edge may be narrower. This effects a saving in goods and overcomes bulk of scam to which objection has been made on some forms of garments.
  • the spacing of the needles and the width of the seam can be arranged to suit the character of fabrics for maximum strength of seam.
  • the sewing machine to which this invention is applied serves to illustratethe invention, but the invention is not limited to any particular type of stitch or machine, for it will. be understood by anyone skilled In the art that the trimming mechan'sm may be classed as an at attachment and applicable to a variety of sewing machines.
  • This mechanism comprises an adjustable stop 48-A clamped in the T-slot of the lever 48 by a screw 48-33. Attached to an extending end 48-0 of the link 38 is the upper end of a rod 48-D, see Fig. 1. The lower end of this rod connects at 48-E to a floor treadle 48-? pivoted to a supporting bracket 48-61. This foot treadle is conveniently located to be actuated by the heel and toe of the foot of the operator.
  • a spring 48-11 is connected to the treadle or rod and to an eyelet 48-1 attached to the bench or to the machine base 1 for holding the parts in their uppermost position to give full stroke or movement to the rotary cutter or feed.
  • the adjustable stop e8-A may be positioned in the groove of the segmental lever 48 to limit the -movement of the segmental slide block 45 from the lowermost position where it str'kes the pin 4 8-J to its uppermost position where it will rest against the adjustable stop 48-A.
  • the combination of stitching mechanism constructed to stitch parallel rows of stitches, means for operating it, means including a circular cutter for trimming the stitched edges of the work with a predetermined design and located adjacent to and at the side of the needle whereby the cutter and the needle of the stitching mechanism may operate simultaneously on curved forms of work, and rotary eccentric means for positively operating it.
  • a sewing machine the combination of stitching mechanism and driving means for operating it, a four-motion feed mechanism, means for operating it, means including a circular cutter for trimming the stitched edges of the work with a predetermined design and effective to co-operate with the feed mechanism to feed the work, means for positively operating the trimming means, means for shifting the circular cutter thereby to interrupt the cutting action thereof wherebyit is effective only to feed the work and also effective to interrupt its feeding action, means for regulating the pressure on the cutter, and means for regulating the speed of movement of the cutter,,without changing the speed of the stitching mechanism and its driving means.
  • the trimming means without stitching mechanism and means for operating it, means including a cutter for trimming the stitched edges of the work with a predetermined design, means for changing the speed of the trimming means, means under the control of the operator for controlling said last means, and means under the control of the operator for shifting the trimming means whereby it may act to trim or feed or both trim and feed, each of said controlling means comprising treadle operated means.
  • v means for positively operating the trimming means.
  • means for regulating the speed of the trimming means whereby it may operate at a. speed equal to or faster than the feeding means without affecting the speed of-the feeding mechanism and its driving means, and means for shiftstitching mechanism, driving means therefor, a
  • circular cutter for trimming the stitched edges of the work, means for positively rotating the cutter. means for exerting pressure on the cutter, independent means for shifting the cutter into and out of engagement with the work, and means for regulating the speed of the cutter without afiecting the speed of the stitching mechanism and its driving means.
  • a sewing machine the combination of stitching mechanism, driving means therefor, a circular cutter for trimming the stitched edges of the work and located in parallelism with the needle with its axis in a plane intersecting the needle of the stitching mechanism, eccentrically operated means for positively rotating the cutter, means for regulating the pressure of the cutter on the work, means for regulating the speed of the cutter without affectingthe speed of the stitching mechanism and its driving means, and independent means for shifting the cutter relative to the work.
  • the combination of stitching mechanism constructed to stitch parallel rows of stitches, a rotary circular cutter effective to trim the work along the stitched edges thereof and located parallel to the needle and having the plane of its axis intersecting a needle of the stitching mechanism, eccentrically operated means for positively rotating said cutter, means for exerting pressure on the cutter, and independent means for shifting the cutter into and out of engagement with the work.
  • the combination of stitching mechanism constructed to stitch parallel rows of stitches, a rotary circular cutter effective to trim the work along the stitched edges thereof and located parallel to the needle and having the plane of its axis intersecting a needle of the stitching mechanism, eccentrically operated means for positively rotating said cutter, means for exerting pressure on the cutter, inde; pendent means for shifting the cutter into and out of engagement with the work, and means for regulating the speed of movement of the cutter, the trimmer shifting means and the trimmer regulating means each including a pedal operated means.
  • the combination of stitching means, a circular cutter for trimming the stitched edges of the work, operating means therefor comprising a segmental arm, a block shiftable thereon and connected with the cutter, means connected with said arm for operating it thereby to rotate the cutter, and means for shifting the block along the arm thereby to regulate the movement of the cutter.
  • the combination of stitching mechanism and means for operating it means including a circular cutter located adjacent to and at the side of the needle for trimming the stitched edges of the work with a predetermined design whereby both the cutter and the needle of the stitching mechanism may operate simultaneously on curved forms of work, rotary eccentric means for positively operating said trimming means, means for exerting pressure on the trimming means, and independent means for lifting the trimming means to interrupt its cutting action and thereby permit it only to feed the work or to entirely release the work.

Description

Feb. 13, 1934.
J. P. WEIS TRIMMING- MACHINE Filed May 20, 1931 2' Sheets-Sheet l.
INVENTOR. I BY J fin Ph ezs.
- ATTbRNEYS.
Feb. 13, 1934. J, P, was 1,946,557
TRIMMING MACHINE Filed May 20, 1931 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 IN VEN TOR.
/ ATTORNEYS.
Patented Feb. 13, 1934 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE TRIMZMIING MACHINE John P. Weis, Nyack, N.
Metropolitan Sewing Y.', assignmto The Machine Corporation,
32 Claims.
This invention relates to sewing machines, more particularly to design trimming mechanism therefor adapted to trim the material adjacent to the line of stitches and also cut therefrom any surplus material, the trimming mechanism producing a design or irregular out instead of a straight out along the edge of the material at a predetermined distance from the stitch line and in which the stitching mechanism and an intermittently-operated design trimming mechanism are operative in unison simultaneously to sew and design trim the edge of the sewed seam, thereby doing away with the necessity of first stitching the article and then subsequently trimming it on a separate instrumentality.
The principal object of the invention, therefore, is the provision of an improved sewing machine having combined stitching and design trimming mechanism operative in unison, whereby all kinds of irregular designs along the cut edge of the work such as pinked edges, a curved edge or a scalloped edge, as distinguished from a straight edge or cut may be obtained in apparel or other articles of manufacture.
A further object of the invention is the provision of a design trimming mechanism of the character described which may be operated independently of the feeding mechanism of the sewing machine.
Another object of the invention is the provision of an improved sewing machine having design trimming, feeding and stitching mechanisms, in which the trimming mechanism co-operates with a four-motion feed in the feeding of the goods past the stitching mechanism, whereby the edges of the goods may be trimmed margin of suitable width line of the seam to fabric.
A further object of the invention is the provision of a sewing machine having trimming mechanism capable of making one or a plurality of spaced rows of stitches, thereby to give added strength to the seam made in the material and prevent the pulling out of the seam without the necessity of having an increased margin or width of material between the stitched lines and the trimmed edge which is objectionable as a waste of material, bulkiness of scam or frayed edges.
A further object of the invention is the provision of a multiple needle sewing machine for making a plurality of spaced rows of stitches having a design trimming mechanism effective to trim the edges simultaneously with the stitchwith a extending from the prevent the fraying of the ing thereof, whereby all kinds of delicate fabrics may be stitched and trimmed with a pinked or design trimmed edge in a durable manner with a minimum of material between the stitches and the trimmed edge.
A further object of the invention is the provision of a sewing and trimming mechanism having a rotary cutting device effective to sever the material along the stitched seam line and under the control of the operator for varying the speed and feed of the trimming mechanism while leav- 35 ing the hands of the operator free to guide the work.
Aother object of the invention is the provision of sewing machine having a rotary cutting device capable of differential movement with respect to the regular feed of the sewing machine, thereby to facilitate the feeding around curves and corners of the work.
A further object of the invention is the provision of a sewing machine with a rotary cutting device for severing the material with an irregular design cut to prevent fraying of the fabric and simultaneously to feed the fabric in unison with the regular feed of the machine or to at times feed the material independently of the four-mo v tion feed or at other times to feed the material in unison with the four-motion feed without e1- fecting a cut in the fabric.
A further object of the invention is the provision of a design trimming mechanism which may also be used as a feeding mechanism either with or without a cutting action on the material being stitched.
A further object of the invention is the provision of an improved design trimming mechanism I with means effective to interrupt its cutting action and also to interrupt its feeding action, in-
clu g means for operating the trimmer as an intermittent feed to feed the work past the stitch ing mechanism without severing the fabric. 9
This invention is an improvement in the trimming mechanism shown in my application filed October 15, 1930, Serial Number 488,739. Prior to my invention, it was the common commercial practice in the production of design cut seams to use a separate machine and consequently the extra cost of operating it and the handling of the work, as there was no sewing machine on the market .provided with a design or pattern cutting mechanism. Therefore, when it was necessary to design trim the work, a requirement that has existed for many years in certain kinds of work, it has always been necessary to provide a separate machine operated independently of the sewing machine at an extra cost and the indedesign-trimmed,
pendent operation of the stitching and design trimming machines have frequently resulted in imperfect productions.
Furthermore, when the articles were pinked or prior to the stitching thereof, the result was that the plies of material to be stitched were oftentimes uneven or out of line so that the design trimmed edges would overlap and not match and frequently the cut edges would have margins of different widths from the line of stitches, all of which disadvantages are overcome in the present improvement by reason of the fact that the stitching and design cutting are simultaneously performed on the one machine, thereby saving the cost of an additional machine, the operation thereof, and also the extra handling of the work.
The present improvement is shown in connection with the-well-known Metropolitan machine, especially designed for industrial use, to which it may be attached without alteration of its material members are well known, being illustrated and described in numerous patents, it is necessary-only to briefly refer to the main parts of this machine. While in the present improvement the mounting of the trimming mechanism with its cutting elements is located as in my earlier application, parallel with the needle to facilitate the trimming of curves and corners or sharp turns in the work, in the present case the design and construction of the mounting of the top rotary knife differs in that it is connected for support in the rear instead of at the front of the needle. By this arrangement of mounting, greater clearance is provided in front and to the right of the stitching position for the mounting of guides and attachments that may be employed for speci kinds of workfor use in combination with the ,feeding, stitching and trimming means.
In my contemporaneously pending application, the trimmer was operated from the feed driving mechanism so that any change in the adjustment of the length of stroke of the feed affecting the length ofstitch, also affected the stroke of the design cutter. On certain classes'of work, this was of advantage, while on other klIldS, some disadvantage, and since I important feeding element andmay be used as such independently of its trimming or cutting operation, it is advantageous to have an independent drive with adjustment for varying its feeding stroke so that a differential action may be provided, controllable and independent of the four-motion feed.
Means is also cutting action when desired,
provided for interrupting the controllable by the hand or foot of the operator, thereby providing a partof this specification,
means whereby portions of the garment may be either trimmed or untrimmed without interrupting the stitching operation.
In the drawings accompanying. and forming Fig. 1 is an end view of a sewing machine having this improved design trimming mechanism applied thereto.
Fig. 2 is a top view of the trimming mechanism applied to the cloth'plate of the sewing machine with the overhanging arm of the machine omitted.
Fig. 3 is a front view of "that portion of the sewing machine to which the trimming mechanism is applied.
Fig. 4 illustrates a portion of the stitched material having one design of trimmed edge, comand as these sewing machines moily designated as a pinked edge, or pinking,
Fig. 5 is a detail of the controlling means operative by the hand or foot of the operator for interrupting the cutting action of the cutter.
Similar characters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the several views.
Before explaining in detail the present improvement and mode of operation thereof, I deside to have it understood that the invention is not limited to the details of construction and arrangement of parts which are illustrated in the accompanying drawings since the invention is capable of other embodiments and the phraseology which I employ is for the purpose of description and not of limitation.
In the preferred form thereof shown, the base or frame 1 of the sewing machine is provided with a top or overhanging arm 2 having the usual needle bar 3 carrying one or more needles 4 and a presser foot 5 provided with lifting means 6 therefor. In the base land the arm 2 are located rotary shafts for driving the several parts. A feeding mechanism 7 is provided for operating the usual feed dog 8 for feeding the work and co-operating with the needle is a looper or loopers 9 for producing the stitches and which is operated by suitable looper driving means 10. The cloth or work plate 11 is secured'to the base or frame 1 of the machine by screws 12 so that the cloth plate is rigidly supported and this plate is provided with a throat plate 13, see Fig. 2,
having a feed dog opening 14 and needle holes being provided to permit 15, a slide plate 16 access to the parts for threading the looper, etc.
The cloth plate 11 has an integral bracket bearing 1'7, see Fig. 1, terminating in a bearing 18, Figs. 2 and 3, in which is secured a shaft 19, clamped by a screw 20, pivotally mounted on the shaft 19 is a swinging bracket 21, Fig. 2, having hubs 22 and 23 closely fitting the sides of the bearing 18. The swinging bracket 21 is provided with bearings 24 and 25 spaced apart to receive a collar 26 clamped to the cutter supporting shaft 2'7 that rotates in the bearings 24 and 25. The collar 26 prevents end movement of the shaft 27 except by adjustment of the collar on the shaft and provides a means for changing the relative location of the design cutter 28 with respect to the needle holes 15 and the needle 4. The cutter is mounted on and clamped to the shaft 2'? by a screw 29. The design cutter 28 coacts with a rotary cylinder 30 which turns on a stud 31 secured in a lug 32 by a screw 33. The width of this cylinder is greater than that of the design cutter 28, thus affording a means for adjusting laterally the location of the design cutter 28 relative to this cylinder which permits changing the relative distance between the design cutter and the needle for making a wide or narrow seam.
Suitable means is provided for conducting lubricant from the cloth plate 11 down through the lug 32 into the stud 31 and to the rotary cylinder 30. Y
Secured to the right hand. end of the shaft 27 is a driving clutch 34 having a hub 35. This clutch is similar in design to that shown in my pending application but reduced in size to permit operation at higher speeds. overhanging the flange of the clutch are several gripping dogs or pawls 36, operated by and connected with an oscillating clutch member 37 connected by a stud screw 39 to an oscillating or driving link 38 for giving intermittent movement to the clutch,
the shaft 27 and the cutter 28. To prevent back,- ward movement of the clutch I employ back lash dogs and 41, which overhang the flange of the clutch 34 and are under the control of springs 42 connected with supporting studs 43 carried by the upwardly and downwardly projecting lugs 43-A of the cloth'plate 11 and control the back lash pawls so that they will operate in a Wellknown manner to prevent backward movement of the clutch. :Any intermittent clutch capable of high speed operation may be employed for use in connection with this trimmer.
' The driving link 38 is connected at 44 by shoulder screw 45 to a T-shaped slide block 46 operating in a slot 47 of a segmental lever 48, see Fig. 1. Thissegmental lever is secured to the rock shaft 49 of the feed operating mechanism of the machine and this shaft operates in the usual bearings 50 of the machine base 1. This segmental lever 48 provides means for adjusting the shoulder screw 45 and the block 46 to its lowermost position, in which position, the axis of the shaft 49 parallelly aligns with the axis of the screw 45 and, in this position, no movement will be given to the rotary knife 28 for feeding or cutting action. That is to say, its movement will be arrested since there will be no lengthwise movement given to the link 38 when the block 46 is adjusted to its lowermost position, but when the block 46 is adjusted above the axis of the shaft 49 and along the curved arm of the lever 48, the movement is gradually increased until it reaches the top thereof, where a maximum movement is given to the operating parts, giving a step by step rotary movement to the design cutter 28. Thus the cutter may act either to cut and feed the'work equal or in excess of the feeding movement of the feed dog 8 on the work. To give rocking movement to this segment 48 an eccentric 51 is carried by the bottom shaft of the machine and operates in a strap 52 to which is attached a connecting rod 53, Fig. 1, the outer end of which is pivotally connected at 54 to a hub 55 of the segmental lever 48.
The feed driving mechanism 7 is of usual construction for operating the feed dog 8 through the medium of the usual feed rocker frame 56 and the feed bar 57 which carries the feed dog 8 having the usual four-motion well-known to machines of this kind. The adjustable crank' usually carried at the end of the bottom shaft for adjusting the length of stroke of the feed dog 8 is indicated at 58 in Figs. 1 and 3.
The presser foot mechanism 5 coasting with the feed dog 8 to feed the work has the usual downward pressure given to it by a suitable spring, not shown, so that the foot will follow the action of the feed at speed and clamp the work in the regular way, as is well known with all sewing To give pressure to the design cutting knife 28 so that it will cut or feed the work as desired, I, employ a fiat spring 59 having one end resting on an abutment 60. A screw 61 is tapped into an overhanging bracket at 62 and has a-lock nut 63 for regulating downward tension on the spring to give pressure to the feeding and cutting action of the rotary'knife 28. The screw is carried by a bracket 64 secured at 65 to the machine frame. The forward end 66 of the spring 59 rests on the bearing 24 to give pressure as near as possible to the knife 28. The long length of this spring from the adjusting screw 61 to its end 66 permits the knife to be lifted from the work free from feeding or cutting action, without too much increase in- That is to say, when the knife is lifted from the work, the pressure is slightly greater than that required to feed or even cut the work. Therefore, a spring of the length shown is desirable. 4
To permit the cutter to feed the work without cutting the screw 61 may be regulated so that the design cutting knife will merely have pressure enough on the work to feed it through without downward pressure.
severing the work. In addition to this adjusting means for applying downward pressure to the knife, I provide mechanical means for lifting the knife to any desired degree within the limits pro- K vided with a segmental depending portion 73, see, a 100 Figs. 1 and 5, against which the cable 71 rests; A stop 74 limits the downward movement of the lever when it contacts at 75 on the edge of the cloth plate 11. This lever 68 is provided with an arm 76 carrying a roller 77 pivoted to the arm. This roller rides on the top surface of the cloth plate. The downward pressure, of the spring 59 normally holds this roller 77 against the cloth plate with the lever 68 in the position shown in Fig. 1, and which remains in this position during the time the rotary cutter 28 is operating.
A slight pressure on the treadle 72 will swing the lever 68 and the swinging bracket 21, thereby lifting the cutter 28 .from the cylinder 30 sufficiently to interrupt the cutting action, yet permitting a feeding action, while further movement of the parts will suspend the cutting and feeding action, placing the .knife entirely out of contact with the material feeding through the machine.
When the treadle 72 has been depressed to bring the stop 74 in contact with the edge of the cloth plate 75 the roller 77 comes to a position underneath the pivot of the lever to hold the parts in that position under the tension of the spring 59 ,te keep the cutter 28 in an elevated position until the lever is released by hand or the stops 74 and 75 may be so arranged as to permit the lever to return automatically to its inital position, as shown in Fig. 1, according to the requirements under which the machine is used.
Fig. 5 illustrates the position the parts of the lever 68 assume when the design cutting knife is lifted out of feeding and cutting action.
To properly lubricate the shaft 27 in the bearings 24 and 25, I provide a grease cup 78 tapped into the bracket 21 which is provided with ducts 79 leading to each of these bearings. The pressure. against the shaft by the bearings under feeding and cutting action requires constant and eflicient lubrication. The ordinary liquid lubricant is apt to damage thework and because of this, the system employed is of considerable im portance. The shaft 27- where it operates in the bearings is provided with suitable grooves for carrying and retaining the lubricant and prevents its escape from the bearings 24 and 25 in a practical manner.
Attached to the bracket 21 at 2l-A, see Fig. 1. is a circular shaped guard 21-B that partly covers the design cutting knife and thus protects the fingers of the operator against injury. This guard is omitted in Figs. 2 and 3 to show more clearly the other parts.
In Fig. 4 is represented a piece of work A with a design cut edge B and a portion C with a design cut edge severed therefrom, thus illustrating how the cutter 28 may effect a design cut in and away from the rough edge D of the work. A row of stitches made by one needle is indicated by E and another row of stitches made by a second needle is indicated by F. Certain classes of fabrics fray very easily and it has been found in practice that by making two rows of stitches spaced apart a suitable distance that the margin from the stitch line to the trimmed edge may be narrower. This effects a saving in goods and overcomes bulk of scam to which objection has been made on some forms of garments. The spacing of the needles and the width of the seam can be arranged to suit the character of fabrics for maximum strength of seam.
The sewing machine to which this invention is applied serves to illustratethe invention, but the invention is not limited to any particular type of stitch or machine, for it will. be understood by anyone skilled In the art that the trimming mechan'sm may be classed as an at attachment and applicable to a variety of sewing machines.
For some kinds of work, it is desirable to provide differential movement for the rotary cutter and feed and to accomplish this I have provided means under the control of the foot or knee of the operator for instantaneously changing the cutting and feeding stroke of the rotary kn fe 28. This mechanism comprises an adjustable stop 48-A clamped in the T-slot of the lever 48 by a screw 48-33. Attached to an extending end 48-0 of the link 38 is the upper end of a rod 48-D, see Fig. 1. The lower end of this rod connects at 48-E to a floor treadle 48-? pivoted to a supporting bracket 48-61. This foot treadle is conveniently located to be actuated by the heel and toe of the foot of the operator. While a foot treadle is shown, it is to be understood that a knee shift would serve the same purpose. A spring 48-11 is connected to the treadle or rod and to an eyelet 48-1 attached to the bench or to the machine base 1 for holding the parts in their uppermost position to give full stroke or movement to the rotary cutter or feed. The adjustable stop e8-A may be positioned in the groove of the segmental lever 48 to limit the -movement of the segmental slide block 45 from the lowermost position where it str'kes the pin 4 8-J to its uppermost position where it will rest against the adjustable stop 48-A.
From the foregoing, it will be seen that during the operation of the machine, differential movement for feeding or feeding and cutting can be given to the rotary knife and feed toxfacilitate rounding corners or making shaft turns.
Under some operatng conditions, the character, of work will not require the treadle control for differential movement, in which event these parts will be omitted. The shoulder screws 45-will then be arranged to clamp the slide clock 46 to the lever 48 to give'the desired movement.
It is to be understood that by describing in dc.- tail herein any particular form, structure or arrangement of parts, it i s not intended to limit the invention beyond the terms of the several claims or the requirements of the prior art.
Having thus explained the nature of my said invention and described a way of constructing and using the same. although without attempting to set forth all of the forms in which it may be made, or all of the modes of its use, I claim: J
1. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism and driving means for operating it, means including a circular cutter for trimming the stitched edges of the work with a predetermined design, and means for imparting difierent speeds to changing the speed of the stitching mechanism and its driving means. A
2. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism constructed to stitch parallel rows of stitches, means for operating it, means including a circular cutter for trimming the stitched edges of the work with a predetermined design and located adjacent to and at the side of the needle whereby the cutter and the needle of the stitching mechanism may operate simultaneously on curved forms of work, and rotary eccentric means for positively operating it.
3., In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism, driving means for operating it, a four-motion feed mechanism, means for operating it, means for trimming the stitched edges of the work with a predetermined design and effective to co-operate with the feed mechanism to feed the work, means for regulating the pressure of the trimming means, rotary eccentric means for operating said trimming means, means for regulating the position of the trimming means, and means for regulating the speed of the trimming means without changing the speed of the st'tching mechanism and its driving means.
4. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism and driving means for operating it, a four-motion feed mechanism, means for operating it, means including a circular cutter for trimming the stitched edges of the work with a predetermined design and effective to co-operate with the feed mechanism to feed the work, means for positively operating the trimming means, means for shifting the circular cutter thereby to interrupt the cutting action thereof wherebyit is effective only to feed the work and also effective to interrupt its feeding action, means for regulating the pressure on the cutter, and means for regulating the speed of movement of the cutter,,without changing the speed of the stitching mechanism and its driving means.
5. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism and means for operating'it, feeding mechanism, means for trimming the stitched edges of the work with a predetermined design, means for positively operating it, and means for shifting the trimming means into and out of engagement with the work and comprising treadle operated means.
6. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism and means for operating it, feeding mechanism, means including a circular cutter for trimming the stitched edges of the work with a predetermined design, a rotary eccentric means for positively operating it, and means for sh fting the trimming means into and out of engagement with the work and comprising treadle operated means.
7. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism and means for operating it, means including a cutter for trimming the stitched edges of the work with a predetermined design, means for changing the speed of the trimming means, means 'under the control of the operator means, and means under for controlling said last the control of the operator for shifting the trimming means whereby it may act to trim or feed or both trim and feed.
8. In a sewing machine, the combination *0! the trimming means without stitching mechanism and means for operating it, means including a cutter for trimming the stitched edges of the work with a predetermined design, means for changing the speed of the trimming means, means under the control of the operator for controlling said last means, and means under the control of the operator for shifting the trimming means whereby it may act to trim or feed or both trim and feed, each of said controlling means comprising treadle operated means.
9. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching means and means for operating it, feeding mechanism, a circular cutter for trimming the stitched edges of the work with a predetermined design, operating means therefor comprising a rockable segmental arm, a block shiftable thereon and connected with the cutter, eccentrically operated means connected with said arm for rocking, it, thereby to rotate the cutter, means for shifting the block along the arm thereby to regulate the movement of the cutter, and means for shifting the cutter relative to the work.
10. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism, feeding means, driving means therefor, means for trimming the stitched edges'of the work, means for positively operating the trimming means, and means for regulating the speed of thetrimming means whereby it may be operated at a speed equal to or faster than the feeding means without afiecting the speed of the feeding mechanism and its driving means.
11. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism, feeding means, driving means therefor, means for trimming the stitched edges of the work, means for positively operating the trimming means and including means for regulating the speed of the trimming means whereby it may be operated at a speed equal to or faster than the feeding means without afiecting the speed of the feeding mechanism and its driving means.
- 12. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism, feeding means, means for trimming the stitched edges of the work, means for positively operating the trimming means and including means for regulating the speed of the trimming means whereby it may be operated at a speed equal to or faster than the feeding means, said operating and regulating means comprising a pair of members, one shiftable relative to the other, means for shifting it, and means for operating both of said members,
13. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism, feeding means, driving means therefor, means for trimmingthe stitched edges of the work, means for positively operating the trimming means, means for regulating the speed of the trimmingmeans whereby it may be operated at a speed equal to or faster than the feeding means without afieoting the speed of the feeding mechanism and its driving means, and means for shifting the t means into and out of engagement with the work.
14. In a sewingmachine, the combination of stitching mechanism, feeding means, driving means therefor, means for trimming the stitched edges of -the work, means for regulating the pressure of the trimming means on the work,
v means for positively operating the trimming means. means for regulating the speed of the trimming means whereby it may operate at a. speed equal to or faster than the feeding means without affecting the speed of-the feeding mechanism and its driving means, and means for shiftstitching mechanism, driving means therefor, a
circular cutter for trimming the stitched edges of the work, means for positively rotating the cutter. means for exerting pressure on the cutter, independent means for shifting the cutter into and out of engagement with the work, and means for regulating the speed of the cutter without afiecting the speed of the stitching mechanism and its driving means.
1'7. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism, a circular cutter for trimming the stitched edges of the work, and located in parallelism with the needle with its axis in a plane intersecting the needle of the stitching mechanism, and eccentrically operated means for positively rotating the cutter.
18. In. a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism, driving means therefor, a circular cutter for trimming the stitched edges of the work and located in parallelism with the needle with its axis in a plane intersecting the needle of the stitching mechanism, eccentrically operated means for positively rotating the cutter, means for regulating the pressure of the cutter on the work, means for regulating the speed of the cutter without affectingthe speed of the stitching mechanism and its driving means, and independent means for shifting the cutter relative to the work.
19. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism, a circular cutter for trimming the stitched edges of the work and located in parallelism with the needle with its axis in a plane intersecting the needle of the stitching mechanism, eccentrically operated means for positively rotating the cutter, means for regulating the pressure of the cutter on the work, independent means for shifting the cutter relative to the work, and means for regulating the speed of the cutter relative to the feedof the work:
20. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism, a circular trimming cutter located parallel to the needle of the stitching mechanism and having the plane of its pivotal ams intersecting the needle, rotary eccentric means for positively operating the cutter, means for exerting pressure on the cutter, and independent means for shifting the cutter relative to the work,.and including a lever and means for operating it.
21. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism driving means therefor, a circular trimming cutter located parallel to the needle of the stitching mechanism and having the plane of its pivotal axis intersecting the needle, rotary eccentric means for positively operating the cutter step by step, means for exerting pressure on the cutter, independent means for shifting the cutter relative to the work, and means for regulating the speed of the cutter without changing the speed-of the stitching mechanism and its driving means v 22. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism constructed to stitch parallel rows of stitches, a rotary circular cutter effective to trim the work along the stitched edges thereof and located parallel to the needle and having the plane of its axis intersecting a needle of the stitching mechanism, eccentrically operated means for positively rotating said cutter, means for exerting pressure on the cutter, and independent means for shifting the cutter into and out of engagement with the work.
23.- In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism constructed to stitch parallel rows of stitches, driving means therefor, a rotary circular cutter effective to trim the work along the stitched edges thereof and located parallel to the needle and having the planeof its axis intersecting a needle of the stitching mechanism, eccentrically operated means for positively rotating said cutter, means for exerting pressure on the cutter, independent means for shifting the cutter into and out of engagement with the work, and means for regulating the speed of movement of the cutter and without changing the speed of the stitching mechanism and its driving means.
24. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism constructed to stitch parallel rows of stitches, a rotary circular cutter effective to trim the work along the stitched edges thereof and located parallel to the needle and having the plane of its axis intersecting a needle of the stitching mechanism, eccentrically operated means for positively rotating said cutter, means for exerting pressure on the cutter, inde; pendent means for shifting the cutter into and out of engagement with the work, and means for regulating the speed of movement of the cutter, the trimmer shifting means and the trimmer regulating means each including a pedal operated means. I
25. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching means, a circular cutter for trimming the stitched edges of the work, operating means therefor comprising a segmental arm, a block shiftable thereon and connected with the cutter, means connected with said arm for operating it thereby to rotate the cutter, and means for shifting the block along the arm thereby to regulate the movement of the cutter.
26. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching means, a circular cutter for trimming the stitched edges of the work, operating means therefor comprising a segmental arm, a block shiftable thereon and connected with the cutter,
means connected with said arm for operating it thereby to rotate the cutter, means for shifting the block along the arm thereby to regulate the movement of the cutter, and means for shifting the cutter relative to the work.
27. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching means, a circular cutter for trimming the stitched edges of the work, operating means therefor comprising a segmental arm, a block tit late the movement of the cutter and comprising a lever and means for operating it.
28. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching means, a circular cutter for trimming the stitched edges of the work, operating means therefor comprising a segmental arm, a block shiftable thereon and connected with the cutter, means connected with said arm for operating it thereby to rotate the cutter, means for shifting the block along the arm thereby to regulate the movement of the cutter, and means for shifting the cutter relative to the work and comprising a lever and means for operating it.
29. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism and means for operating it, feeding mechanism, means including a circular cutter located adjacent to and at the side of the needle for trimming the stitched edges of the work with a predetermined design whereby the cutter and needle of the stitching mecha nism may operate simultaneously on curved forms of work, rotary eccentric means for positively operating said trimming means, and means for shifting the trimming means into and out of engagement with the work.
30. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism and means for operating it, means including a circular cutter located adjacent to and at the side of the needle for trimming the stitched edges of the work with a predetermined design whereby both the cutter and the needle of the stitching mechanism may operate simultaneously on curved forms of work, rotary eccentric means for positively operating said trimming means, means for exerting pressure on the trimming means, and independent means for lifting the trimming means to interrupt its cutting action and thereby permit it only to feed the work or to entirely release the work.
31. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism and driving means for operating it, means for trimming the stitched edges of the work with a predetermined design, and means under the control of the operator and efiective during the operation of the machine for imparting different speeds to the trimming means without changing the speed of the stitching mechanism and its driving means.
32. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism constructed to stitch parallel rows of stitches, driving means for opera ing it, feeding mechanism, means for trimming the stitched edges of the work with a predetermined design, eccentrically operated means for positively operating said trimming means, and means for regulating the speed of saidt Lllilrlz. means without changing the speed of the stitching mechanism and its driving means.
JOHN P. WEIS.
US538633A 1931-05-20 1931-05-20 Trimming machine Expired - Lifetime US1946557A (en)

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