US1111339A - Combined ruffling, trimming, and overstitch sewing mechanism. - Google Patents

Description

J'. P. WEIS & R. R. HUGHES, JR. COMBINED RUFLING,A TRIMMING, AND OVEBSTITCH SEWING MECHANISM.

APPLIOATION FILED JUNE 30, 1911.

1,1 1 1,339. Patented Sept. 22, 1914A 4 SHEBTS*SHBET l.

1HE NORRls PETERS cu. PHaTo-Llmo.. IVASHINGI'UN. D. c.

J. P. WEIS e R. R. HUGHES, JB. COMBINED RUFFLING, TRIMMING, AND OVERSTITUH SEWING MECHANISM.

PPLIATIONVFILED JUNE 30, 1911. 1,1 1 1,339. Patented Sept. 22, 1914.

4 SHEBTS-SHEBT 2.

Jaim P14/eds 1 THE NGISRIS PETERS m. PHQmLITHO.. WASHINGIUN. D. C.

y J. P. WEIS & B.. R. HUGHES, In. COMBINED RUPNLING, TRIMMING, AND ovBRsTIToH SEWING MEGHANISM. Y

' APPLICATION FILED JUNE 30, 1911. 1,1 1 1,339.

Mn MO THE NogRls PETERS CQ. PHOTU-LITHOA. WASHINGTON. D. C

Patented Sept. 22, 1914.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

' u. P. WEIS E R. R. HUGHES, JR. COMBINED RUFFLING, TRIMMING, AND OVERSTITGH SEWING MECHANISM.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE 30, 1911. 1,1 1 1,339. Patented sepnzz, 1914.

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7277271 P14/eis mb. Taber?, y M

THE NoRRls PETERS C0.. PHOm-LITHO., WAsHlNGlwv. v.

'UNITED STATES PATENT oEEroE.

AND ROBERT n. nUGHEs, JR., E NYAOK, NEw YORK, AssIoNoEs To LUoIUs N. LITTAUEE, OE GLOvEnsvrLLE, NEW YORK,

`(OIVILBIWIEID RUFIELING, TRIMMING, lAND OVERSTITCH SEWING MECHANISM.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Fatented Sept. 22, 1914.

Appncauon inea June 3o. 1911. serial No. 636,185.

To all whom t may concern Be it known that we, JOHN P. W'Ers and ROBERT R. HUGHES,l Jr., ycitizens of the beinor to rovide `a sewing machine havin lr b b combined overstitch,y ruffling and trimming mechanisms cooperating in such a manner that the work may be ruffled, the edges trimmed and such trimmed edges over'- stitched to make a tight and neatly covered seam, so that the work may ,be'completed on one machine, and in-which machine also the ruiing mechanism may-be throwninto or out of operation as the character of the work requiresthus effecting a large saving and greatly increasing the production, while insuring more uniform work.

Heretofore in the manufacture of underwear, shirt waists, kimonos` and similar garments, ithas been the usual practice, where .the seams required one portion to be ruffled,

another portion to be plain stitched, without any rutile, and another; portion where one ply work is to be ruffled and stitched to another ply of non-ruffled work and the raw edges of `such seam covered with an overstitch, to accomplish this by first ruifling or gathering that portion of the work on a machine prior to its being seamed tothe nonruflled piece of work, so that to complete the seam necessitated three separate operations, first, the ruliling of one piece, then the seaming of the twotogethenand finally the trimming OE of the Arough edges, and then overstitching the seam; whereas, by the present improvement, these three operations are all done at one and the same time, by ruffling one layer of the work as the same is fed to the other layerthereof, trimming the edges of the work prior to the stitching, andthen overstitching the trimmed edges.

A further 'object ofthe invention is the provision, in a machine of the character d escribed, ofv an improved ruftling mechanism .which is effective to ruffle the work from the bottom, so that 'the mechanism is to a certain extent out ofthe way and the needle is readily accessible fori threading and other purposes, while the work can bereadily seen and inspected. i

- In the drawings accompanying and forming part of this specification, Figure l is a front elevation `.illustrating `the combined rufilmg, trimming and `feeding mechanism; Fig. 2 i s a left hand end view of Fig. l; Fig. 3 1s a perspective view showing the work produced by the machine` partly ruiiied, trimmed and overstitched; Figa is a perspective view of a portion of the presser foot and illustrating the manner in which the toothed wheel engages openings in certain classes of work to facilitate the guiding of the work in a uniform manner; Fig. 5 is a perspective view, partly in section, of details of the mechanism shown in Fig. l; Fig. 6 is a detail side view, partly in section, of the trimmer mechanism looking toward the left in Fig. l; Fig. 7 is a detail side view of the ruffling mechanism illustrating more particularly the manner in which the ruffling blade coopera-tes with the top and bottom stripper `members or blades; Fig. 8 is a top plan view of the cloth plate and themeans for shifting the top stripperblade to enable the work to be inserted in position; and Fig.

`9 is a front view of the mechanism shown in Fig. 8. y .Y

Similar characters of reference `indicate corresponding parts throughout the figures of the drawings; Y

In the embodiment shown the bed plate 1 of the sewing machine head has the usual overhanging upright orarm 2 terminating in the gooseneck 3 carrying the usual needle bar l and presser bar 5, the former carrying the usual needle 6 andthe latter thepresser foot 7. Carried by a suitablesupport or upright 8 is the cloth plate 9 attached thereto in the usual manner. Supported by this upright 8 andthe upright 2 is the main `driving'shaftlO, to which rotary motion is imparted by means of a hand wheel and belt, not shown, and fromwhich the needle bar is caused to reciprocate throughsome suitable train of mechanism, not shown.

` The feed mechanism, which may be of the usual type, and of which therefore a detailed description is unnecessary, comprises in a general way the serrated feed member 1l operating through the usual opening l2 in the throat plate 13 and the work or cloth plate, and coperates with the presser foot secured to the presser bar inthe usual manner. For

ment a toothed wheel 21.

A prises in a operating this feed member an adjustable crank disk 14, operated by the main driving shaft, imparts movement to a connecting member 15 pivotally connected to a rocker frame 16 pivotally supported at its lower end on the frame of the machine, the feed member being connected by a bar 17 with the upper end of this rocker frame 16. The usual feed lift eccentric, not shown, gives the risc and fall movement to the feed bar and feed member thro-ugh the connection indicated by 18, shown in do-tted lines in Fig. 2. The presser foot 7 may be secured in any desired manner and is turned up at an angle at its front end, see Figs. 2 and 7 as at 19, and in the present instance is provided with a slot 2O in which is mounted for rotary move- This slot in the foot is made wider than the width of the wheel and thus enables said wheel to be adjusted laterally by means of a guiding fork 22 secured to the upturned portion of the presser foot. The presser foot is also provided with an extension 24 at the side thereof, see Fig. 4, which is in position to reach around lthe trimmer knife hereinafter described and thus forms a means for holding that portion of the work to be trimmed down so that it will not get over the top of the knife and thus prevents suoli trimmed portion from'again getting into the path of the knife or needle.

This improved ruiiing mechanism comgeneral way a pair of stripper members or blades and a ru'liier having a movement therebetween, whereby the work is ruined from the underside or bottom thereof, together with means for operating the ruiiler, and which ruffling mechanism is provided with means for throwing it into and out of action, whereby parts of the work may be plain stitched while other parts thereof may be ruliied, and also with means for adjusting the ruftler blade whereby a greaterv or less ruffle may be obtained, andV also with means whereby one, as the upper, stripper plate or blade may be shifted to facilitate the insertion of the work, and which several means may be operated by the operator without requiring the use of the hands, which thus may be left free to manipulate the work. The rufliing mechanism is located below the upturned portion of the presser foot and in position to properly feed the work under the straight or fiat portion of the presser foot, and comprises a top or upper stripper plate or blade 8O and a lower or bottom stripper plate or blade 60, and a ruii'ler or rufHing member 70. The upper or ltop stripper plate or blade 30 is adustably secured in a y, slot 31 of a suitable holder 32 by means of a washer and nut 33, which holder is secured to an overhanging bracket 34. This bracket extends back and terminates in a plate or enlargement 36 adjustably secured tothe cloth plate 9 by means of screws 35.

As in certain classes of work it is desirable to shift or raise the stripper plate or blade so as to leave suflicient space between it and the rufliing blade to permit the bottom ply of work to be readily inserted and to also facilitate the insertion of the upper ply of work, thereby to permit the even starting of both plies of work, the stripper blade holder is secured to a rock shaft 37 supported by suitable bearings 38 on the bracket 34, and .this shaft is provided with a forked crank arm 39, coperating with which is a `pin 39 carried by a crank arm 40 secured to a rock shaft 41 supported in a suitable bearing 42 carried by thebracket 34. This shaft 41 is provided with a collar 44 secured to the presser foot knee lifter` rod 45, which extends downwardly and is provided'with aA coupling 46 connecting the'same with a rod 47'v carrying a spring 48 so located that it returns the rod to its normal or lifted position. To the lower end of this rod is connected a chain 49, usually connected to a treadle, not shown, usually located on the iioor, or to a knee shift, wherebyit may be readily operated by the foot or lmee of the operator. This rod and chain mechanism is connected to the presser foot in the usual manner for lifting the presser foot so as to permit both hands of the operator to remain free to manipulate the work. As the presserl foot is usually raised to permit the insertion or` removal of the work, it

will be apparent that the operation of this mechanism through vthe means justv described will also simultaneously lift the top stripper blade; A coiled spring() encircles the vshaft 87 and coperates with a collar 51 and the left hand bearing 38, thereby to normally keep the top stripper blade in contact with `the bottom stripper blade. An adjustable work guide 52, see Fig. 5, is adjustably attached to the cloth plate to project into position below the upper stripper blade and in such position that it will facilitate the guiding of the lower ply of work to be ruffled." The bottoni stripper plate or blade 60 is secured at 61 to a bracket 62 and coperates with the upper or top stripper blade 30 in such a manner as to receive the ruffle from the rufling plate and clamp it while the ruifling plate or blade is withdrawn therefrom, thus insuring a positive ruflie at each movement or reciprocaticn of the rufliing blade and overcoming any tendency on the part of the operator to straighten out the ruiiie after it hasonce been formed. L

The ruflling blade 70 is of spring or resilient formation, as are also the upper and lower stripper blades, andv is adjustably seto limit the upward movement of the blade through the throat plate; The ruffling blade Vholder 72 is cylindrical in form for the reception of ,a shoulder screw 75, and

i around this holder a coiled` spring 7 6 is z located, one end of the spring resting under-l neath a portion of the rattling blade holder,

as at 77, while the other end of the spring is clamped by 'the screw 7 5. This affords a means of regulating the tension of this spring on the ruiiling blade and its holder and `causes the curledv lip 74 to engage the bottom of thethroat plate.

The rufflingblade holder -72is secured to `acurved segmentor varm 86, which is pivotally secured by` a shoulder screw 83 4to a bracket Se attached to the base plate of the machine, as at 85. This .bracket is provided with a socket in which is secured a post 87 carryingtwo adjustable stops 88 and 89for the purpose of limiting the movement of the block and connection about to be described.

Pivotally secured `to the feed dog connecting member 15 is a connecting member or rod 90, by means of which connection this rod 90 has movement imparted thereto from the adjustable crank 14. .Thisinovement is the same in extent as the movement of the,

feed mechanism, and this connecting member 90 has attached thereto a segmental slide block 91 by meansof shoulder screw`` 92, which slide block moves freelyon the curved segment or arm S0, movement thereof being limited by the stops `8S and 89 secured to the i post 87 Ahereinbefore` described. By meansof these adjustable stops 88 and S9 j the movement of the block along the segmental arm is limited, -so that two predetermined adjustments may be obtained, thatA is to say, if the lower stop is-adjusted as low as possible on its postland the other as high as possible theblock may be caused to slide to the top `of the curved segment or to thebottom thereof and is locked inr either position by the set screw 93, `.shown in dotted 4 This curved segment islinesfin Fig. 2. graduated, as at 9%,so -thatby adjusting the block to the desired position the amount of ruii'ie desired mayibe obtained, it being apparent of ccurse'that themovement of the crank disk 14 imparts reciprocatory move-` ment through the curved segment to the ruflling blade to ruiiie, the/lower of ma# terial, as shown in Fig. 3, under the upper ply of material, in other words, to rule the work from the bottom thereof. In practice ythe thumb: screw 98 may be omitted or left unfastened, so that the segmental block 91 may be shifted without the necessity of using the hands for this purpose. To accomplish this, the block 91 has pivotally secured thereto, see Fig, 9, a connecting rod 95, the lower end of which extends downward below the work table and is pivotally secured to a rocking lever 96 pivotally secured to a bracket supported at the underside of the table. The opposite end of this lever has pivotally connected thereto a rod 97 extending upward through the table and is provided at its upper end with a pad or rest 9S in position to be operated by the arm or wrist of the operator, and is conveniently located so that while both hands of the operator are engaged in guidingthe work this rest or pad` `may be depressed by the arm of the operator i and so operate it to shift the slide block 91 along the curved segment to the positions determined by the stops carried by the post.

Attached to 'the connecting members 15 and is a pair of links 100, 101, connected at their lower ends by a 'helical spring 102, and this normally causes the segmental slide block to move to the lowest position on the curved segment determined by the lowest stop, so that it will be observed that after pressure is removed from the rest shown in Fig. 9 the lever mechanism and the slide block will be caused to descend to its lowest position on the curved segment.

When the segmental block 91 is, moved downward it increases the throw of the rufiiing blade and hence increases the amount o'f ruffle, and by shifting this block upward the amount of ruiiie is decreased or entirely prevented, so that the two plies of work may be stitchedby `the usual stitches without any ruiiiing of one of them; so that when the operator, through'the mechanism here-` inbefore described, shifts the block downward on the graduated arm the amount of rutile will be increas'edaccording to thedis- .tance that thezblock is shifteddownward. When the segmental block 91 is at the extreme upper end of the graduated arm the rufliing mechanism'is out of `operation so far as any ruiling action thereof `is concerned. i 1

The bottom stripperblade acts resilient-ly 'simply to strip the ruffle from the rutfling blade; in other words, it prevents the ruffle from pulling back or straightening out, it

Vbeing forced down by the ruiiiing blade when the same is shifted forward to ruile the goods. '."The rufHing blade engages the goods to be ruffled and forces it between the stripperblades,thelower stripper blade being so adjusted that the ruifler blade inits movement toward the needleprojects slightly over this stripper blade to deposit'the ruflie upon it and underneaththe upper stripper blade hereinbefore referred to.

`gin to be trimmed off will be the exa-ct any desired position.

The toothed Wheel of the presser foot is useful to assist in guiding lace insertions, etc., the teeth of the wheel engaging the open work of the insertion to facilitate the guiding of the work and maintaining a uniform distance from the open spaces o-f the work to the line of stitch.

In practice the upper layer or ply of work that is to be stitched passes over the upper stripper blade in the manner shown in Fig. 7 it running in straight, without turning, so that the edge lies flat. The stripper blade 30 is adjustable toward and from the needle in the slot of the ho-lder which carries it, and the holder also has a swinging adjustment relatively to the overhanging bracket 341:, so that the stripperfblade may be adjusted'into The under layer "or ply which is to be ruflied is fed between this stripper blade and the rufier, being suitably guided by the guide hereinbefore described and in the manner shown in Fig. 7, whereupon the rufiler ruiiies the under layer of goods. As the work is ruflied the edge becomes jagged or irregular, and by providing the trimming mechanism hereinafter described this edge, together with an irregular edge of the upper layer, is trimmed olf vsmooth and is then fed by the feed do-g'to the stitching mechanism, where the edges are stitched by the overlook stitching mechanism in the manner hereinafter described. The Aadjustable guide 52 regulates the amount to be trimmed off of the piece that is being ruflied and can be so adjusted that the vmaramount required, whether it be one-eighth' lor one-quarter of an inch.

From the foregoing it will be observed that in the present improvement, bythe proper manipulation of the ruffler through the means provided for that purpose, part of the work can be stitched plain while another part can be ruffled the required amount, some part of which for instance to a greater `extent than another part thereof; or, if preferred, the same amount of ruiiie may be obtained at all'times by setting the stops 88 and 89 on the upright post, or by tightening up the thumb screw 93 hereinbefore referred to.

By having the links 100 and 101 projecting downward the spring 102 connected thereto normally holds the segmental block on the'graduated segment in its lowest position. If, however, these links 100 and 101 were reversed and projected upward the result would be that the sliding block on the graduated segment would be held in its uppermost position, so that no rufiing whatever .would occur, providedof course the stops on the upright post were adjusted in their proper positions to permit this.

The trimming mechanism does not require a detailed description herein.

vertical trimmer supporting frame rests. The trim- Secured to the `main driving shaft -1,0 isV the trimmerdriving eccentric 105which` imi .to the tubular stem'107. By manipulating this latch to cause the same to engage ther stud or pin 113 the pistonis rigidly connected with the tubularstem107, so that movement will be imparted the rotary driving shaft to the trimmerlever and its knife., and by disconnectingthese parts, together with the` catches hereinafter referred to, the trimmer may `be removed from the ,machine The trimmer or knife'vlever 110 is4 supported by a short shaft llcarried by bearings 117 of a trimmer supporting frame 118, said leverhaving a hub 119through which the shaft passes. Onearm of this lever 110 carries the knife'120 secured to it 'at 121. A metal guard 122 is also attached to this arm ofthe lever alongits entire-length by solder or any other suitable means, and this arm acts` as. a diverter to divert the trimmings away to one side where. they will drop to the side of the `machine `owing to the fact 'that this arm is constantly vibrating while the trimmings are dropped thereon. The vibrating knife 120 cooperates with a kstationary blade 123v vclamped to the trimmer supporting frame by a lever 124, which is vsecured to an extending portion of the trimlmer frame, as at 125. This lever extends out beyond the front of the trimmer frame to form a handle which may be manipulated to unclamp the stationary knife when it is Vdesired to remove the same. The trimmer supporting` frame 118-isvfprovided with a "pair of pins 126one at'each side'thereof,`

with which coperateclamps or catches 127 carried by 'a ftrimm'ersupporting bracket' 128, which is adjustably 'secured tothe .base

-plate of the machine,` and these catches rigidly hold the trimmer frame in position on the trimmer bracket, and by disconnecting these latches andthe latch lever 112 the trimmer frame and itsparts may be re- 'moved from the machine. Secured to the bracket 128, see Fig. 1, is an `adjustable gage 129, it being` secured thereto by means of a screw 130. This gage is provided with extensions 131 between which the mer supporting bracket being wider than the trimmer supporting frame enables the sitionrelative to the line of stitches will be y passed thereby through the needle loop car-' the same. The trimmer `blade cuts a shearing cut, and by disconnecting the latch lever i 112 the vibrating blade is thrown out of action.v so that if the work should require a` trimmed it is `fed to the stitching mecha` nism, which in the present instance comprises an overseam stitching mechanism, a detailed description o-f which, however, is deemed unnecessary herein.

Secured to the driving shaft is an eccentric strap 140, which imparts motion to a connection indicated by 141.k Qperating in the top of this connection 141 is a ball stud 142 havingl an end thereof clamped to the crank 143 by means of a screw 144. This crank is secured to a shaft lil-5 carried by a bracket 146, shown in section in Fig. and by thismeans the carrier 147 is caused to perate in the manner hereinafter described. ln another bearingliS of the bracket 146 is located a shaft `149 `carrying' a link v15() pivotally connected to the carrier 147.` This carrier 147 is provided at its upper end with a socket 151 in `which is secured a loop` spreader 152, see Fig. 5. 1

`Secured to the drivingk shaft 10 is a bevel gear 155, see Fig. 2, in mesh with a suitablyI supported similar bevel gear 156, which'last gear is connected by' a link 157,;see Fig. 1, with `a looper carrier 158 pivotallyv supported at'its lower end by a shaft 159 mounted in a bracket 160, and in "which bracket this shaft is free for movement.`

The upper end ofthis carrier is provided with a looper 161, and by themechanism just described `reciprocatory motion is imparted to the looper, and with which looper` the needlehereinbefore vreferred to'coperz` ates. The looper carries a thread that 'is ried by the needle, at which time the spreader 152, which also carries a thread, is

in suchposition as to enter the looper` loop and rise up over the edge of the work and present a loop of its thread to-the needle,` thus producingfa three-thread lock over-` seam;y

lVe claim as our invention:v

` 1. In a sewing machine, `the combination of stitching mechanism, feeding mechanism for feeding the work to and past the stitching mechanism and comprising a feed dog and means for operating the same, ruiiiing mechanism independent of and located in advance ofthe feeding mechanism and including a rufliing blade and a swinging arm connected thereto located at the feeding end i of the machine, means connecting said swinging arm withthe feeding mechanism, means. effective to adjust the parts of the rufiling mechanism thereby to vary the amount of ruiiie or to render the ruffling mechanism' ine-Eectve to ruffle, trimming wardly toward the same.

mechanism, stitching mechanism, and means for operating the several mechanisms simultaneously.

2. ln a'sewing machine having a throat plate, the combination of a ruffler comprising a blade supported below the plane of said plate and projecting upwardly above said plate and downwardly toward the same and in position to operateat the underside of the work, and means for actuating said blade. i

8. ln a sewing machine having a throat plate, the combination of ruff-ling mechanism comprising a stripper blade located to work above said plate and a rufiler supported below the plane of said plate and projecting thereabove and downwardly toward said plate for ruiing on the underside of the work, i and means for operating said rufiler.

4L. ln a sewing machine having a throat plate, the combination of ruiiiing mechanism comprising a stripper blade located to work above said plate, a ruffier supported belovi7 the planeof said plate and projecting thereabove and downwardly toward said plate for ruiiiing on the underside of the work and a stripper blade located below the plane of said plate for coperating with the ruffler at the underside of the work, and means for operating .said ruflier.

5. ln a sewing machine having a throat plate, the combination of rufiiing mechanism comprising a strip )er blade located above said plate and a ru er supported below the Aplane of said plate and projecting thereabove for ruiiiing on the underside of the "work, means for operating said ruiiier,

means for limiting the .movement of said ruiiler, a stripper blade located below the *i plane of the throat plate, and means for vraising the first stripper blade without affecting the position of the rutiler.

6. In a sewing machine having a throat plate, the combination of ruffling mechanism `comprising `a stripper blade located above said plate and a ruiher supported below the Y plane of said -plate and projecting thereabove for ruiiiing on the underside of the work, means for operating said ruiiier, means for `limiting the movement of said ruiiler, and a stripper blade supported below the plane of said throat plate and cooperating with the ruilier blade and said first stripper blade.

7 In a sewing machine having a throat plate, the combination of a rufller blade supported below the plane of said plate and projecting above the same and comprising aresilient member bent to project upwardly through the throat plate and then down- 8. In a sewing machine having a throat plate, the combination of a presser foot having an upturned end, ruflmg mechanism i blade comprising a stripper blade supported above' plate, the combination of a ruitler blade sup-` ported below the plane of said plate and projecting above the same and comprising a resilient member, means for varying the movement of said rallier blade, a stripper located above the plane of said throat plate and also comprising a resilient mem ber, and a stripper blade supported below the plane of said throat plate and also comprising a resilient member.

l0. In a. sewing machine having av cloth plate provided with a throat plate, the combination of ruiiiing mechanism comprising a stripper blade over which one layer of material is fed, a rutlier blade supported below the plane of the throat plate and between which and said stripper blade another layer of material is fed and a stripper blade supported to work below said rutller blade, and means for reciprocating the ruiiler blade, said rutller blade and last stripper blade projecting above the throat plate.

1l. In a sewing machine having a cloth plate provided with a throat plate, the combination of ruitling mechanism comprising a stripper blade over which one layer of material is fed, a ruiiler blade between which and said stripper blade another layer of material is fed and a stripper blade supported below said ruitler blade, means for reciprow cating the rufller blade, said ruiiler blade and last stripper blade supported below the plane of but projecting above the throat plate, and means for varying the reciprocatory'movements of said ruttler blade or throwing it into an ineffective position to ruflie.

l2'. In a sewing machine having a cloth plate provided with a throat plate, the combination of rufliing mechanism comprising a stripper blade over which one layer of ma terial is fed, a ruitler blade between which and said stripper blade another layer of ma terial is fed and a stripper blade supported below said ruiiler blade, means for reciprocating the rutlier blade, said rufler blade and last stripper blade supported below the plane of but projecting above the throat plate, means for varying the reciprocatory movement of said rutller blade or throwing it into an ineii'ective position to ruilie, and means for shifting the upper stripper blade thereby to facilitate the feeding of the work.

13.4 In a sewing machine having a cloth f plate provided with a throat plate, the composition to rui'lle.

bination of ruiiling mechanism comprising-v lei. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism and ruilling mechanism, the latter comprising a reciprocating rulliing blade located in position to work on the underside of the work and a pair of stripper blades one supported to work above and the other to work below the ruiiler blade, means for reciprocating the rutlier blade and comprising a sector and a member movable thereon, stops for limiting the reciprocating movement of said rutller blade, and means for varying the recipro'catory movement of the blade and throwing it into an ineffective l5. In a sewing machine,` the combi-- nation of stitching mechanism and ruf- Hing mechanism, the latter comprising a reciprocatory ruilling bladelocated in sition to work on the underside of work and a pair of stripper blades supported above and the other below the rutller blade, means for reciprocatingy the rallier blade and comprising a sector and a member movable thereon, stops for limiting the reciprocating movement of said ruiiler blade, y and means for varying the reciprocatory movement of the blade and throwing it into an ineective position to rutlie and comprising means shiftable by the operator while permitting the hands of the operator to be free to manipulate the work.

PO the one - 1,6. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism and ruliingmechanism, the latter comprising a reciprocatory ruliing blade located in positionA to work on the underside of the work and a pair of stripperblades one supported above and the other below'the ruii'ler blade, means for reciprocating the ruiiler blade and comprising a sector and a member movableuthereon, stops for limiting thek reciprocating movement of said ruilier blade, means for varying the reciprocatory movement of the blade and throwing it into an ineiiective position to ruffle, and van adjustable work guide located below the upper stripper blade for ,guiding one layer -of work between said blade and the ruftler blade.

17. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitching mechanism and ruiiling mccha nism, the latter comprising a reciprocatory ruiller blade located in position to work on the underside of the work and apair Vof stripper blades one supported abov-e and the other below the ruillerblade, means for re-` ciprocating the ruliler blade and' comprising a sector and a member movable thereon, stops for limiting` the reciprocating movement of said ruftler blade, means for varying the reciprocatory movement of the vblade and throwing it into an ineective position to `ruiifle, and teedmg mechanism including a presser foot ,having an upturned` forward end below which saidrufiier blade and stripper blades are located.

18. In a sewing machine having a throat j ruiiier blade and comprising a sector and a member movable thereon, stops'or limiting the reciprocating movement of said rufiier blade, means for varying' the reciprocatory movement of the bl'adeand throwing it into an ineffective position to rutile, and feeding mechanism including a presser foot having anupturned forward end below which said ruiiler blade and stripper blades are located.

19. In a sewing machine having a throat plate, the combination of ruflling mechanism comprising a stripper blade over which one layer of material is fed, a ruiiler blade effective toruilie on the underside of the work andbetween which and said stripper blade another layer of material is fed and another stripper blade supported to worlr at the un-` derside of the material, and means for recip-` rocatmg the ru'l'tler blade. j

20. In a sewing machme having a throat plate, ,the combination otruiiiing mechanism? comprising a stripper blade over which one layer of material is fed, a ruiiier blade supported below the plane of said throat plate and 'projecting above the same and between which and said stripper blade another layer of material is` fed, means for reciprocating the ruiiier blade, and another stripperblade :also'su'pported below the plane of said throat i plate.

21. In a sewing machine, the combination of av ruiihng blade, a swinging segmentally `shaped arm connected thereto, a block slidmg onsaid arm, means connected. with said block for swinging the arm, a plurality of stops in position and adjustable to limitA the movement of said block at various points throughout` theflength of said arm, and

means for supporting said stops indepentb entlyof said arm, y. .Y l

22. In a sewing-machine, the combmation of a pair of stripper blades, a ruiihng blade supported to work therebetween,` a swinging segmentally shaped arm connected yto blade. i

said ruilling blade, a block sliding thereon,

`means connected with said block for swinging the arm, a plurality of stops in position and adjustable to limit the movement of said block at various points throughout the length ot said arm, and means for supporting said stops independently of said arm.

23. In a sewing machine, the combination of a pair otstripper blades, a ruflling blade supported to work therebetween at the underside `ot the work, a swinging segmentally shaped arm connected to'said ruiliing blade, a block` sliding thereon, means connected with said block for swinging the arm, and a plurality of stops in position and adjustable tovlimit the movement of said block at various points throughout the length of said arm.

Ql. ln a sewing machine, the combination oit' a rutiler blade, a swinging `arm for supporting said ruiiler blade, means connected with said arm for swinging it and adjustable thereon. for varying the movement of said blade, and spring controlled means Jfor holding said bladein one or the other of its extreme adjusted posit-ions.

25. ln a sewing machine, the combination of a ruilier blade, a` swinging arm for supporting said ruii'lerblade, means connected with said arm for swinging it and adjustable `thereon for varying the movement ot said blade, spring controlled means for holding lsaid blade in one or the other of its eXtreme adjusted positions, means for shifting it from such position to or toward its other position, and means for limiting the movement thereof.

26. In a sewing machine having a throat plate, the combination of a ru'Her blade supported below the plane of and projecting above said throat plate, a swinging arm supporting said blade, means connected thereto for swinging said arm and adjustable thereon' for varying the movement of said blade, a stripper member located above the plane of said throat plate, means for raising and lowering said stripper member, and a stripper blade supported below the plane of said throat plate and coacting with the rutller 27. In a sewing machine having a throat plate, the combination of a ruftler blade supported below the plane ofsaid throat plate andprojecting above the same, a stripper blade supported above the plane of the throat plate, a stripper blade supported be- 1 low the plane of the throat plate, and means for operating said rulier blade.

Q8. ln a sewing machine having a throat plate, the combination of a ruiiier blade supported below the plane of said throat plate and projecting above the same, a stripper blade supported` above the plane of the throat "plate, a stripper blade supported below'the plane of the throatplate, means for 180 operating said ruiiier blade, and means fory raising and lowering the uppei' stripper blade.

29. In a sewing machine having a throat plate, the combination of a ruiiier blade supported below the plane of said throat plate and projecting above the same, said ruiiier blade having means for limiting the position of the blade relatively to the throat plate, a stripper blade supported above the plane of the throat plate, a stripper blade support-ed below the plane of the throat plate, means for operating said ruiier blade, and means for raising and lowering the upper stripper blade.

30. In a sewing machine having a throat plate, the combination of a rufiier blade supported below the plane of said plate and having a part thereof projecting above said plate, .a swinging segmentally shaped arm supporting said ruiiier blade, means connected with said arm for swinging it and adjustable thereon 'for varying the movement of said ruliier blade, a stripper blade located above the plane of the throat plate,

Y means for raising and lowering it independently vof the ruiiier blade, and a stripper blade supported below'the plane of said throat plate and cooperating with the ruiiler blade and the shiftable stripper blade.

3l. In a sewing machine, the combination of a ruilier, a swinging arm for supporting` said ruiiiei", means connected with said arm for swinging it and adjustable relatively7 to said arm for varying the movement of said rufiier, stops for' limiting the adjustable movement of said means at any desired point on the swinging arm, and spring controlled means for holding the means connected with the arm against one or the other of said stops. l

32. In a sewing machine, the combination of a ruiiier blade, a swinging seginentally shaped arm for supporting said rufiier blade, means connected with said arnifor swinging it and adjustable thereon for 'varying the movement of said rufiier blade, stops for limiting the adjustable movement of said means at any desired point on the swinging arm, and spring controlled means for, holding the means connected with the arm against one or the other of said stops.

33. In a sewing machine, the combination of a ruiHer blade, a swinging arm for supporting said ruflier bla-de, means connected with said arm for swinging it and adjustable thereon for varying the movement of said ruiiier blade, spring controlled means for holding said means in o-ne or the other oi its extreme adjusted positions, and means for shifting it from such position to or to-v ward its other position.

34. In a sewing machine, the combination of a ruler blade, a swinging segmentally shaped arm for supporting said ruiiier blade,

means connected with said arm for swinging it and adjustable thereon for varying the movement of said ruifier blade, means for holding said means in one or the other of its extreme adjusted positions, means for shifting it from suchv position to or toward its other position aiidcomprising arm operated means. f ,Q s

35. in a sewing machine, the combination of a. rufier blade, a swinging arm for supporting said ruiiier blade, means connected with said arm for swinging it and adjustable thereon for varying the` movement of said ruiiler blade, spring ycontrolled means :for holding said means in one orthe other of its extreme adjusted positions, means for shifting it from such position to or toward its other position, and means for'regulating the tension of the ruflier blade.

36. In a sewing machine, the combination of a ruiier blade, a swinging segmentally shaped arm for supporting said ruiiier blade, means connected with said arm for swinging it and adjustable thereon for varying the movement of said rufiier blade, means for normally holding said means at one eX- treme position on said arm, means for' shifting said means to or ltoward the other extreme position on said arm,"v and adjustable stops supported in juxtaposition to said arm for limiting the adjustable movement Vof said means. v

87. In a sewiifigmacliine,the combination of a rufliei" blade, aaswinging arm for supporting said ruiiier blade, means connected with said arm for swinging it and adjustable thereon for varying the movement of saidblade, and reversible spring controlled I means for holding saidblade in oneor the other of itsextreme adjusted positions.

38. In sewing machine, the combination of a ruitier blade, a swinging arm for .supporting said ruiilerrblade, means connected with said arm for swinging it and adjustable thereon' for varying the movementof said ruiiier blade, reversible spring controlled means for holding said means in one` orthe other of its extreme adjusted posi, tions, and means for shifting it to ortoward its other adjustedl position.

" 'JOHN i). wnis.

ROBERT n. nuoiiiis, JR.

lVitnesses as to the signature lof John l). lVeis: i

` JS. SpRiLEY,

laIARGARET VViLLnT. j l j A lVitnesses as to the signature of Robert R. Hughes, J r.: Y

EDWARD L. RUSSELL, ALBERT H. Wins.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five eentseachfhy addressing the Commissioner ofzZPatents,

` Washington, D. C.

ioo

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