US255578A - And charles - Google Patents
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- US255578A US255578A US255578DA US255578A US 255578 A US255578 A US 255578A US 255578D A US255578D A US 255578DA US 255578 A US255578 A US 255578A
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- cutter
- shaft
- blade
- cutting
- plate
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- 210000003811 Fingers Anatomy 0.000 description 44
- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 description 34
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 description 28
- 238000009966 trimming Methods 0.000 description 22
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 14
- 238000010276 construction Methods 0.000 description 10
- 238000009740 moulding (composite fabrication) Methods 0.000 description 10
- 210000002683 Foot Anatomy 0.000 description 6
- 210000003813 Thumb Anatomy 0.000 description 6
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 description 6
- 238000010008 shearing Methods 0.000 description 6
- 210000003800 Pharynx Anatomy 0.000 description 4
- 210000003371 Toes Anatomy 0.000 description 4
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 4
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 4
- 235000002723 Dioscorea alata Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 235000007056 Dioscorea composita Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 235000009723 Dioscorea convolvulacea Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 235000005362 Dioscorea floribunda Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 235000004868 Dioscorea macrostachya Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 235000005361 Dioscorea nummularia Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 235000005360 Dioscorea spiculiflora Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 240000005760 Dioscorea villosa Species 0.000 description 2
- 240000007600 Lysimachia clethroides Species 0.000 description 2
- 235000006350 apichu Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 230000000875 corresponding Effects 0.000 description 2
- 235000004879 dioscorea Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 230000002452 interceptive Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000006011 modification reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920000136 polysorbate Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 230000001105 regulatory Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000036633 rest Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000011435 rock Substances 0.000 description 2
Images
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
- D05B—SEWING
- D05B37/00—Devices incorporated in sewing machines for slitting, grooving, or cutting
- D05B37/04—Cutting devices
Definitions
- This invention has more particular reference to mechanism for trimming the edgesof knit fabrics as they are sewed by a sewing machine of otherwise ordinary or suitable construction in the manufacture of hosiery and similar goods.
- Thesewing-machine maytnake the lock or other usual form of stitch, but the chain-stitch is, on account of its elasticity, betteradapted to the uniting of knit fabrics, and the invention is shown herein as embodied in a chain-stitch machine, being that now well known as the Willcox 86 Gibbs machine.
- Thisimprovement is mainly intended to make a neat substantial seam, as closely trimmed as may be desired, in an efficienomanner, with machines making a straight-ahead seam, although it is obvious that the devices employed, or some of them, could be, used with machines making a zigzag stitch or in connection with other means for uniting the material.
- One portion of the fabric is or may be heldbe- 6o tween the presserfoot and cloth or throat plate of the machine.
- a holding finger or device is used, the material being clamped between it and a suitable bearing-surface.
- This bearingsurface can be formed by the cloth or throat plate; but it is preferably the surface of the stationary cutter, and is so shown herein.
- the holding finger or device is made in-tegral with or is attached to the presser-foot, or
- Theobjectot' the holding finger or device being to retain the fabric in position against the action of the vibratory cutting-blade, which tends to push thefa'bric away from its fulcrum, the desired effect can be obtained with sufficient pressure by means of smooth clamping-surfaces; but in practice better results are had bymeans of less pressure and the use ofa rough surface or teeth on 5 the holding finger or device, which teeth during the operating of cutting take into the fabric and hold it stationary, but do notinterfere presser-foot and be caught by the needle.
- One of the cutters or cutting-blades of the shears is made capable of a movement substantially at right angles to the line of cutting, and is connected with a spring arranged to retain its cutting-edge in close contact with that of the other cutter.
- the movement referred vto is not such as the blades of ordinary shears or scissors have upon their fulcrum, but a true line-movement, so that the cuttingedges are always pressed together with ap proximately the same force.
- one of the cutting-edges is made oblique to the line of cutting, and the cutter with which the spring is connected is at each operation of the shears moved in one direction by the action of the cutting-edges against each other in closing, and is returned by the spring when they open.
- the oblique cutting-edge is formed on the stationary cutter, and the spring acts upon the vibratory cutter or blade, wh lCll is attached to a rock-shaft operated from the main shalt or from any rotary or vibratory or reciprocating part of the machine, through connections which permit a slight endwise movement to said shaft.
- the stationarycutter or shear blade consists of a bar or plate, on the end of which the cutting-edgeis formed.
- This bar or plate is adjustably secured in position, so as to be readily removed ior sharpening or other purpose, and to be set in contact with the other cutter as may be required.
- the cutting-edge slightly oblique to the line of cutting can be easily formed on this plate or bar.
- the latter also, being of suitable length, the fabric, or a portion thereof, can be clamped between its surface and the holding finger or device.
- the adjustment before referred to takes place lengthwise of the bar, substantially at right angles 'is or may be fed over the shaft.
- the surface of the stationary cutter being on an incline, so that one of the several portions-usually the trimmed-off strip'
- the said shaft may be placed under the cloth-plate and the stationary cutter set in flush with the latter. In this case the main portion of goods would be diverted slightly to one side by the vibratory blade.
- the clothplate would, however, be left clear, which would be an advantage in some instances.
- FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a sewingmachine embodying a trimmer constructed in accordance with this invention.
- Figs.2, 3, 4, and 5 are respectively a plan, side elevation,
- Fig. 6 is a perspective view of the trimmer with the presser-i'oot and holding-finger removed; Fig. 6, a detailed view in horizontal section, showing the means for The vibratory blade or cutter be-- ing held in contact with the other by a spring, I it would, unless checked, follow the move' The adattaching the vibratory cutter to the rockshaft; and Fig. 7 represents in perspective and plan views the presser-foot with attached holding-finger.
- Figs. 8, 9, and 10 are respectively a plan, sideelevatiomand rear elevation of the presser-foot, with holding-finger attached at the rear, and showing a part of the stationary cutter in position.
- a Fig. 11 is a sectional elevation, showing another form of stationary cutter or blade from that shown infigures before mentioned, and also the manner of holding the blade in position.
- Figs. 12 and 13 are respectively a plan and side elevation, and Figs. 1 4 and 15 views from opposite ends of an arrangement of cutters with the rockshaft operating the vibrating cutter below the cloth-plate.
- Figs. 16, 17, 18, and 19 are similar views, showing a holding finger or device with intermittent pressure and independent of the presser-foot.
- the machine represented is one which makes a chain-stitch by means of an 1 eye pointed needle and looper, and has a four-motion feed under the cloth-plate. being the well-known Willcox & Gibbs machine.
- Fig. 1 the automatictension in common use in these machines is represented.
- A is the main or looper shaft; A, the clothplate; B, thepresser-tbot; B, uprightprojection on the presser-foot; O, the holding finger or device; D, the stationary. cutter or blade; E, the vibratory cutter or blade; F, a' rock-shaft; G, the supportingframe; H, a spring; I, an adjustable back stop to rockshaft; L, a link for conveying motion from an eccentric on the main or looper shaft to the rock-shaft.
- the frame G is secured in position on the cloth-plate as in Figs. 1 and 6 and 16 to 19, or below it, as in Figs. 12 to 15, and in bearings on said frame the rock-shaft is supported so as to vibrate freely. and to be capable ofan endwise movement.
- the spring H is shown as a spiral spring surrounding the shaft. It is inclosed in the frame, and is arranged to hear at one end against a stationary partof the frame and at the other against a pin or collar on therock-shaft, so as to hold the shaft against its back stop, I.
- the back stop, I is shown as a thumb or set screw, this being the device best adapted to the purpose. By turning this screwin one direction the rock-shaft is advanced against the other direction itis moved back by the spring. The connection with the main shaft does not interfere with these motions,owing tothe long bearing of the pin f.
- the rock shaft F is back of the presser-foot and looper-shaft, and extends from a point close to the presser-foot over the edge of'the cloth-plate, and the vibratory cutter or blade E is held flatwise against the end ofsaid shaft next to the presser-foot.
- the end of the shaft is provided with an enlargement, f, to the facof which the vibratory cutter or blade is secured, being held by a screw, 9, and prevented from turning on said screw by a steady-pin, g.
- the said" cutter or blade E is vibrated with the rock-shaft by means of the eccentric on the main shaft, and is adjustable by the back stop and spring. When the rock-shaft is placed below the cl0th-plate the latter is slotted for the passage of the vibratory blade as shown at a, Fig. 12.
- the stationary blade or cutter D is supported by the cloth-plate parallel with the rock-shaft F, and guided so as to be capable of an endwise movement at, or approximately at, right angles 'to the line of cutting of the shears, and it is held by means of a screw, d, in the position to which it is adjusted.
- the screw d acts as a clamping device, and the blade or cutter D may be removed from isfixed guides byloosening, without removing, said device.
- the two shear cutters or blades and the mechanism for operating the vibratory cutter or blade are combined and arranged as shown, so that in operation the two cutting-edges do not entirely separate, but cross each other at all times; and it is impossible for the work to pass without every thread between the trimmed-oft strip and the body of the goods being severed.
- the presser-foot is cutaway as shown at a, Figs. 7 and 8, upon one side of the needle.
- the cutting-edge is formed by beveling the end of the bar, and, being in the plane of the upper surface of said bar, the line thereof would of course, if extended, pass over the rock-shaft.
- the portion of the supportingframe nearest the needle is made to form a continuation of the upper surface of the stationary cutter, sothat the severed portion can be readily carried over the shaft.
- the triangular form of blade is preferred when the rock-shaft F is above the cloth-plate; but a fiat, or substautially-fiatfbar could be supported with its upper surface in an inclined position, as shown in Fig. 11, in which one edge works in a slot in the frame G and the other, being beveled, rests upon the clothplate.
- the bar or plate with inclined surface acts to divert the trimmed-off strip upward to facilitate the passage over the rock-shaft.
- the stationary cutter is formed of a flat bar and slides in a groove in the cloth-plate.
- This form of cutter is best adapted for use in connection with a vibratory cutter operated by a rock-shaftbelow the clothplate.
- the bearing for the rockshaft which carries the vibratory blade may be placed close to the latter and the necessity avoided of an overhanging or projecting end for the passage under it of the severed portion of the goods.
- the edge of the stationary cutter is slightly oblique to the edgeof the vibratingcutter, or,inother words, as the latter is arranged to vibrate in planes parallel to the feed movement, to the line of stitching.
- the vibratory blade or cutter is forced sidewise, carrying with it the rock-shaft, removing the latter for a time from contact with its back stop and compressing the spring H.
- the spring acts and forces the rock-shaft again into contact with its back stop, upon which it bears until the cuttingedges again come into contact with each other.
- the back stop being adjustable, it follows/that the cutting-edges may be allowed to make contact for a regulated portion of their length corresponding to the length of stitch, and thus confine the cutting and consequent wear of the edges to that portion.
- the holding finger or device 0 has its under surface roughened or provided with teeth, as indicated. It is shown in Figs. 1 to 5 and 7 to 1.0 as attached to or formed in one piece with the presser-foot. It is arranged and conformed to the upper surface of the cutter D, so as to press thereon when the presser-foot is down and the feed-surface is below the plate. It is at this time that the shearing action takes place, and the fabric, being clamped by the cloth-plate and presser-foot on one side of the. line of cutting and on the other by the holdlug-finger and lower blade or stationary cutter, is effectually prevented from being pushed away from the rock-shaft or fulcrum of the shears and from being drawn between the blades or cutters without being severed.
- the upright curved projection B is placed in front of the needle and prevents the goods from curling or being turned over the pressercutting away the latter in front, also assistsin flattening the goods or taking out the curl, the curled portion of the goods as it passes through the machine coming in contact with the inclined surface at the base of the toe or with the curved upright B.
- the thicknesses of fabric to be united and trimmed are placed under the presser-foot, (the trimmingblades or cutters being properly adjusted and the machine threaded,) the machine is started, and the goods as they are fed forward are severed by the cutters.
- a stationary cutter In combination with the presserfoot, feed, and stitch-forming mechanism ofa sewingmachine of ordinary or suitable construction, a stationary cutter, a vibratory cutter, and a holding finger or device, said presser-t'oot and holding finger or device being arranged to clamp the fabric during the cutting operation, the one upon the stationary cutter and the other upon a surface on the opposite side of the line of cutting, substantially as described.
- a holding finger or device roughened or provided with teeth and operating substantially as de- 1 scribed.
- a trimming attachment comprising a movable cutter, a stationary cutter formed of a bar or plate arranged substantially at right angles to the plane of movement of said movable cutter and adjustable independently thereof, and mechanism for operating said movable cutter so that the edges of the two cutters do not entirely separate but cross each other at all times in operation, substantially as described.
- a vibratory cutter In combination with the cloth-plate, presser-foot, feed, and'stitch-forming mechanism of a sewing-machine, a vibratory cutter, a stationary cutter formed of a plate or bar, and a holding finger or device arranged above said plate or bar, and connected with means for relieving its pressure intermittently, substantially as described.
- a presser-foot having a portion cutaway close to the needle-hole on one side, and provided with an upright projection in front of the needle hole, substantially as described.
- a shearing device the combination, with a stationary cutter or bladeand a vibratory cutter or blade, arranged to operate in connection with each other, and one being capable in operation of a line-movement substantially at right angles to the cutting-edges, of a spring arranged to act upon the blade capable of the aforesaid movementand press said edges into contact with each other, substantially as described.
- a pair of shear-blades or cutters having cutting-edges slightly oblique to each other, and one of said cutters or blades being capable in operation of a line-movement approximately at right angles to the cutting-edges, in combination with a spring arranged to act upon the blade capable of the aforesaid move- .ment and hold said cuttingedges in contact,
- a rockshaft, and vibratory cutter or blade attached to and carried by said shaft, combined with a stationary cutter or blade, as described, said shaft being arranged below the line of the cutting-edge of the stationary cutter or blade, so that in operation the severed portion of the goods may pass over said shaft.
- acutter or blade formed of a plate or bar with the cutting-edge at the end thereof, in combination with a rock-shaft arranged below the plane of the upper surface of said bar or plate, so that said surface if extended would pass over said shaft, and avibratory cutter or blade attached to said rock-shaft, substantially as described.
- An automatic trimmer for operation in connection with a sewingmachine of ordinary or suitable construction comprising the following elements a stationary bar or plate with oblique cuttingedge at the end thereof, means for adjusting said bar or platc, a finger or device for holding stationary the work, or a portion thereof, while cutting, a vibratory blade or cutter, a rock-shaft, spring, and adjustable back stop, substantially as described.
- a flat cutter bar or plate held between fixed guides in or on the cloth-plate, and a clamping device arranged to bear against said bar or plate, so that the latter can be withdrawn byloosening without removing said clamping device, substantially as described.
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Description
(Model.)- 4 Sheets-Sheet 1;
SJBORTO'N & C. H. WILLGOX.
TRIMMER FOR SEWING MACHINES.
No. 255,578. V A PatentedMar.Z8,-l882.
r M W AJ ('Mddel.) 4Shets-Sh|eet .2.
, S. BURTON & C. H."W'I LLCOX.
TRIMMER FOR SEWING MACHINES.
No. 255,578. Patented Man-28,1882.
(Moaei) I 4Sh'eets-Sheet 3. S. BORTON & G. H. WILLGOX.
'TRIMMER FOR'SEWING MAGHINES'.
No; 255,578. Patented Mar. 28,1882.
RRMWN Invemlfir s Mam/201mm er. Washingiun. D C.
TRIMMER FOR SEWING MACHINES.
Patented Mar. 28,1882.
I n yam/Z5219 d Jam/m,
UNtTnD STATES PATENT owes STOCKTON BURTON, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA, AND CHARLES. H. WILLCOX, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNORS TO THE WILLCOX 85 GIBBS SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, OF NEWYORK, N. Y.
TRIMMER FOR SEWING-MACHINES.
SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 255,578, dated March 28,1882. Application filed October 14, 1880. (Model.)
To all whom it may concern: I
Beitknown that we, S'roon'ron BORTON, of
Philadelphia, in the county of Philadelphia and State of Pennsylvania, and CHARLES H.
WILLCOX, of New York, in the county and State of New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Trimmers for Sewing- Maohines, which improvement is fullyset forth in the'following specification.
This invention has more particular reference to mechanism for trimming the edgesof knit fabrics as they are sewed by a sewing machine of otherwise ordinary or suitable construction in the manufacture of hosiery and similar goods. Thesewing-machinemaytnake the lock or other usual form of stitch, but the chain-stitch is, on account of its elasticity, betteradapted to the uniting of knit fabrics, and the invention is shown herein as embodied in a chain-stitch machine, being that now well known as the Willcox 86 Gibbs machine.
In the manufacture of hosiery the plan pursued with the best quality of goods has been toknit the several pieces with selvage edges and then unite them by an overseam. This plan is, however, costly in time and labor. In order to avoid this expenditurethe pieces have beencut from a sheet of knit material and sewed together on a sewing-machine, the edges 0 being automatically trimmed as the material is advanced by the feed mechanism. To prevent the raveling of the cut edges, machines making a zigzag stitch have been employed; but the mechanism required for this purpose 5 renders slow the action of the machine. Itis found that with a short stitch and close trim- Ining a straight-ahead seam can b'e'made superior in appearance and equal in durability to that formed with zigzag stitching, and lit 40 tie, it. any, interior to the so-called regularmade goods with selvage edges, while the rapidity of operation of the sewing-machine is not interfered with as when zigzag stitching is employed. For the trimming of the edges,
v- 5 shears with one stationary and one vibratory cutter or blade have been commonly used, and,
beingbest adapted to the purpose, are used also in the present invention.
Thisimprovementis mainly intended to make a neat substantial seam, as closely trimmed as may be desired, in an efficienomanner, with machines making a straight-ahead seam, although it is obvious that the devices employed, or some of them, could be, used with machines making a zigzag stitch or in connection with other means for uniting the material. To insure the proper dividing ot' the fabric it is clamped. on both sides of the stationary cutting-edge during the operation of the shears. One portion of the fabric is or may be heldbe- 6o tween the presserfoot and cloth or throat plate of the machine. For the other portion, which in hosiery work would be the strip to be trimmed off, a holding finger or device is used, the material being clamped between it and a suitable bearing-surface. This bearingsurface can be formed by the cloth or throat plate; but it is preferably the surface of the stationary cutter, and is so shown herein. By having the cutting-edge in the same plane as the bearingsurface referred to, as is the case when said surface is that of the stationary entv ter, the material can be clamped by means of the holding linger or device closer to the cutting-edge and a narrower strip be held so as 7 to be trimmed off from the main portion than would otherwise be possible or practicable.
The holding finger or device is made in-tegral with or is attached to the presser-foot, or
it may be made independent thereof.
V Heretoforc in sewing-machine trimmers for hosiery work a finger has been employed on the presser -foot to prevent the goods from curling over and interfering with the operation of the cutters; but it is not intended'nor adapted to clamp the work like the holdingfingerin thisinvention. Theobjectot' the holding finger or device being to retain the fabric in position against the action of the vibratory cutting-blade, which tends to push thefa'bric away from its fulcrum, the desired effect can be obtained with sufficient pressure by means of smooth clamping-surfaces; but in practice better results are had bymeans of less pressure and the use ofa rough surface or teeth on 5 the holding finger or device, which teeth during the operating of cutting take into the fabric and hold it stationary, but do notinterfere presser-foot and be caught by the needle.
with its advancement by the feed-surface. To enable this feed to take place properly the pressure of the holdingdevice is automatically released at intervals.
In case the holding-finger is a part of the presser-foot, the pressure will be relieved when the foot is lifted by the feed-surface of the ordinary four-motion feed in its ascent. With an independent device the rise and fall of the finger at the desired times are effected by appropriate means, deriving motion from some rotary or vibratory part of the machine or of the shearing mechanism. Knit goods when out have a great tendency to curl at the edges, and this tendency, except with a very narrow margin or a wider presser-foot than is desirable, is apt to cause the edges to turn over the To avoid thisdifficulty araised projection around the front of the needle is employed.
One of the cutters or cutting-blades of the shears is made capable of a movement substantially at right angles to the line of cutting, and is connected with a spring arranged to retain its cutting-edge in close contact with that of the other cutter. The movement referred vto is not such as the blades of ordinary shears or scissors have upon their fulcrum, but a true line-movement, so that the cuttingedges are always pressed together with ap proximately the same force.
In order to still further improve the cuttingaction for knit goods, one of the cutting-edges is made oblique to the line of cutting, and the cutter with which the spring is connected is at each operation of the shears moved in one direction by the action of the cutting-edges against each other in closing, and is returned by the spring when they open. As herein shown, the oblique cutting-edge is formed on the stationary cutter, and the spring acts upon the vibratory cutter or blade, wh lCll is attached to a rock-shaft operated from the main shalt or from any rotary or vibratory or reciprocating part of the machine, through connections which permit a slight endwise movement to said shaft.
The stationarycutter or shear blade consists of a bar or plate, on the end of which the cutting-edgeis formed. This bar or plate is adjustably secured in position, so as to be readily removed ior sharpening or other purpose, and to be set in contact with the other cutter as may be required. The cutting-edge slightly oblique to the line of cutting can be easily formed on this plate or bar. The latter also, being of suitable length, the fabric, or a portion thereof, can be clamped between its surface and the holding finger or device. The adjustment before referred to takes place lengthwise of the bar, substantially at right angles 'is or may be fed over the shaft.
cloth-plate, the surface of the stationary cutter being on an incline, so that one of the several portions-usually the trimmed-off strip' There are special advantages in this disposition but, if desired, the said shaft may be placed under the cloth-plate and the stationary cutter set in flush with the latter. In this case the main portion of goods would be diverted slightly to one side by the vibratory blade. The clothplate would, however, be left clear, which would be an advantage in some instances.
The regulation of the closeness of the cutting or trimming to the line of stitching can, it is obvious, he elfected by adjusting the framework with the two blades or cutters in any ordinary or suitable way nearer to or farther from the needle; but it is an improvement to make the frame-work stationary and adjust the blades.
ments of the stationary cutter at right angles to the line of cutting, and by adjusting the stationary cutter the shears would cut more or less closely to the line of the stitching. In order, however, to diminish the wear upon the cutters bycontining their pressure against each other as much as may be to that portion by which the cutting is to be done (which will be a greater or less distance, ac
cording to the length of the feed) an adjustable back stop is arranged, so that the rockshalt carrying the vibratory cutter bears against it during a portion of its vibration, but is moved out of contact with it when the cutting takes place. The back stop is shown herein as a thumb or set screw; but other adjusting devices may be used a cam, for example. By using a screw or similar device the vibratory blade can be adjusted with precision to the position required. The stationary cutter can then be adjusted into contact therewith, the vibratory blade being set at its highest point or at the point where it is desired that the cutting should begin. justment of the shears is in this invention usually efl'ected in this way. There are also particular constructions and combinations of" Figurel is a perspective view of a sewingmachine embodying a trimmer constructed in accordance with this invention. Figs.2, 3, 4, and 5 are respectively a plan, side elevation,
and views from opposite ends of the trimmer and connected parts of the sewingmachine shownin Fig. 1. Fig. 6 is a perspective view of the trimmer with the presser-i'oot and holding-finger removed; Fig. 6, a detailed view in horizontal section, showing the means for The vibratory blade or cutter be-- ing held in contact with the other by a spring, I it would, unless checked, follow the move' The adattaching the vibratory cutter to the rockshaft; and Fig. 7 represents in perspective and plan views the presser-foot with attached holding-finger. Figs. 8, 9, and 10 are respectively a plan, sideelevatiomand rear elevation of the presser-foot, with holding-finger attached at the rear, and showing a part of the stationary cutter in position. a Fig. 11 is a sectional elevation, showing another form of stationary cutter or blade from that shown infigures before mentioned, and also the manner of holding the blade in position. Figs. 12 and 13 are respectively a plan and side elevation, and Figs. 1 4 and 15 views from opposite ends of an arrangement of cutters with the rockshaft operating the vibrating cutter below the cloth-plate. Figs. 16, 17, 18, and 19 are similar views, showing a holding finger or device with intermittent pressure and independent of the presser-foot.
The machine represented is one which makes a chain-stitch by means of an 1 eye pointed needle and looper, and has a four-motion feed under the cloth-plate. being the well-known Willcox & Gibbs machine. In Fig. 1 the automatictension in common use in these machines is represented.
The same letters indicate like parts where they occur on all the figures.
A is the main or looper shaft; A, the clothplate; B, thepresser-tbot; B, uprightprojection on the presser-foot; O, the holding finger or device; D, the stationary. cutter or blade; E, the vibratory cutter or blade; F, a' rock-shaft; G, the supportingframe; H, a spring; I, an adjustable back stop to rockshaft; L, a link for conveying motion from an eccentric on the main or looper shaft to the rock-shaft. i
The frame G is secured in position on the cloth-plate as in Figs. 1 and 6 and 16 to 19, or below it, as in Figs. 12 to 15, and in bearings on said frame the rock-shaft is supported so as to vibrate freely. and to be capable ofan endwise movement. The spring H is shown as a spiral spring surrounding the shaft. It is inclosed in the frame, and is arranged to hear at one end against a stationary partof the frame and at the other against a pin or collar on therock-shaft, so as to hold the shaft against its back stop, I.
From the roeleshal't, at or near the rear or right-hand end thereoflprojects an arm, f, with which isjointed one end of the link II by means. ofthc pin f. This pin has a bearing somewhat longer than the thickness of the link, so as to allow it an endwise movement independent of the latter. The other end of the link encircles an eccentric on the main shaft of the machine, and isheld in position by two collars, Z, on said shaft.
The back stop, I, is shown as a thumb or set screw, this being the device best adapted to the purpose. By turning this screwin one direction the rock-shaft is advanced against the other direction itis moved back by the spring. The connection with the main shaft does not interfere with these motions,owing tothe long bearing of the pin f.
The rock shaft F is back of the presser-foot and looper-shaft, and extends from a point close to the presser-foot over the edge of'the cloth-plate, and the vibratory cutter or blade E is held flatwise against the end ofsaid shaft next to the presser-foot.
As shown, the end of the shaft is provided with an enlargement, f, to the facof which the vibratory cutter or blade is secured, being held by a screw, 9, and prevented from turning on said screw by a steady-pin, g. The said" cutter or blade E is vibrated with the rock-shaft by means of the eccentric on the main shaft, and is adjustable by the back stop and spring. When the rock-shaft is placed below the cl0th-plate the latter is slotted for the passage of the vibratory blade as shown at a, Fig. 12.
The stationary blade or cutter D is supported by the cloth-plate parallel with the rock-shaft F, and guided so as to be capable of an endwise movement at, or approximately at, right angles 'to the line of cutting of the shears, and it is held by means of a screw, d, in the position to which it is adjusted.
The screw d acts as a clamping device, and the blade or cutter D may be removed from isfixed guides byloosening, without removing, said device.
The two shear cutters or blades and the mechanism for operating the vibratory cutter or blade are combined and arranged as shown, so that in operation the two cutting-edges do not entirely separate, but cross each other at all times; and it is impossible for the work to pass without every thread between the trimmed-oft strip and the body of the goods being severed.
In order that the two cutters or bladesv may be placed near the needle to trim close to the scam, the presser-foot is cutaway as shown at a, Figs. 7 and 8, upon one side of the needle.
which, if extended, passes over the rock-shafts The cutting-edge is formed by beveling the end of the bar, and, being in the plane of the upper surface of said bar, the line thereof would of course, if extended, pass over the rock-shaft. The portion of the supportingframe nearest the needle is made to form a continuation of the upper surface of the stationary cutter, sothat the severed portion can be readily carried over the shaft. The triangular form of blade is preferred when the rock-shaft F is above the cloth-plate; but a fiat, or substautially-fiatfbar could be supported with its upper surface in an inclined position, as shown in Fig. 11, in which one edge works in a slot in the frame G and the other, being beveled, rests upon the clothplate.
The bar or plate with inclined surface acts to divert the trimmed-off strip upward to facilitate the passage over the rock-shaft.
In Figs. 12 to 15 the stationary cutter is formed of a flat bar and slides in a groove in the cloth-plate. This form of cutter is best adapted for use in connection with a vibratory cutter operated by a rock-shaftbelow the clothplate. In any case the bearing for the rockshaft which carries the vibratory blade may be placed close to the latter and the necessity avoided of an overhanging or projecting end for the passage under it of the severed portion of the goods. In all the figures the edge of the stationary cutter is slightly oblique to the edgeof the vibratingcutter, or,inother words, as the latter is arranged to vibrate in planes parallel to the feed movement, to the line of stitching. Ateach closing of the shears, therefore, the vibratory blade or cutter is forced sidewise, carrying with it the rock-shaft, removing the latter for a time from contact with its back stop and compressing the spring H. As the shears open the spring acts and forces the rock-shaft again into contact with its back stop, upon which it bears until the cuttingedges again come into contact with each other. The back stop being adjustable, it follows/that the cutting-edges may be allowed to make contact for a regulated portion of their length corresponding to the length of stitch, and thus confine the cutting and consequent wear of the edges to that portion.
The holding finger or device 0 has its under surface roughened or provided with teeth, as indicated. It is shown in Figs. 1 to 5 and 7 to 1.0 as attached to or formed in one piece with the presser-foot. It is arranged and conformed to the upper surface of the cutter D, so as to press thereon when the presser-foot is down and the feed-surface is below the plate. It is at this time that the shearing action takes place, and the fabric, being clamped by the cloth-plate and presser-foot on one side of the. line of cutting and on the other by the holdlug-finger and lower blade or stationary cutter, is effectually prevented from being pushed away from the rock-shaft or fulcrum of the shears and from being drawn between the blades or cutters without being severed.
Owingto the construction of the lower blade with a plane or fiat upper surface and the cutting-edge formed on its end, it is practicable to clamp the material by means of the holding finger or device close to the cutting-edge, and a very narrow strip can therefore be trimmed. With the usual thin blade projecting above When the feed The holding-finger is separated from the body of the presser-foot so as to leave a suffi= cient space within which the vibratory blade may operate and be adjusted sidewise. In Figs. 1 to 5 and in Fig. 7 it is shown attached to and projected backward from the front of the presser-foot. In Figs. 8 to 10 it projects forward from the back of the foot. In Figs. 16 to 19 the holding device is independent of the presser-foot. It is formed bya bar or finger, 0, attached to a rock-shaft, F, supported in bearings, and has an arm, f, projecting over the arm f of the rock-shaft F. Gonnected with the rock-shaft F is a spring, H,
tending to turn it in the direction to hold the finger O in contaetwith the stationary cutter. A spiral torsion-spring surrounding the rockshaft and connected at one end with it and at the other end with the frame is shown, but a flat or other suitable form of spring, if properly disposed, could be used instead. The end of the arm f is so disposed with respect to the arm f that as the latter is lifted by the link L and the eccentric on the main shaft of the machine it comes into contact with said arm f and vibrates the rock-bar F, relieving the pressure of the holding-finger. As the arm f descends the spring forces down the holding-finger and the pressure of the latter on the goods is restored. In these figures the spring H, the adjustable back-stop I, and other parts shown in the other figures are not represented.
The upright curved projection B is placed in front of the needle and prevents the goods from curling or being turned over the pressercutting away the latter in front, also assistsin flattening the goods or taking out the curl, the curled portion of the goods as it passes through the machine coming in contact with the inclined surface at the base of the toe or with the curved upright B.
In order to operate the machine the thicknesses of fabric to be united and trimmed are placed under the presser-foot, (the trimmingblades or cutters being properly adjusted and the machine threaded,) the machine is started, and the goods as they are fed forward are severed by the cutters.
It is obvious that various modifications may be made in the details without departing from the spirit of this invention. rangements described may be of special utility unden different conditions. In using the form with the rockshaft above the cloth-plate neither of the severed portions of the goodsis turned aside, but theyboth continue in the The different ar-- samedirection,following the cutting-edges,one portion passing over the rock-shaft and the other under the vibratory blade or cutter. With the shaft under the plate one portion will be slightly turned aside. The trimmer with rock-shaft above the cloth-plate may be readilyarranged'. if desired, to admit of trimming 011' or severing a border or strip of 'any width that can be accommodated under the stationary arm or goose-neck of the machine.
Having thus fully explained the said invention and the manner of carrying the same into effect, what we claim is- 1. In a sewing-machine trimmer, the combination, with the cutting-shears, of means, as indicated for clamping and thus holding stationary the fabric on opposite sides of the line of cutting during the operation of the shears, substantially as described.
2. In combination with the presserfoot, feed, and stitch-forming mechanism ofa sewingmachine of ordinary or suitable construction, a stationary cutter, a vibratory cutter, and a holding finger or device, said presser-t'oot and holding finger or device being arranged to clamp the fabric during the cutting operation, the one upon the stationary cutter and the other upon a surface on the opposite side of the line of cutting, substantially as described.
3. In combination with automatic shears, a holding finger or device roughened or provided with teeth and operating substantially as de- 1 scribed.
4. In combination with a sewing-machine, a trimming attachment comprising a movable cutter, a stationary cutter formed of a bar or plate arranged substantially at right angles to the plane of movement of said movable cutter and adjustable independently thereof, and mechanism for operating said movable cutter so that the edges of the two cutters do not entirely separate but cross each other at all times in operation, substantially as described.
5. In a sewing-machine trimmer, the combination, with a stationary cutter formed of a bar or plate and a vibratory cutter, of a holding finger or device arranged to clamp the material to be sewed and trimmed between itself and said plate or bar, substantially as described.
6. In combination with the cloth-plate, presser-foot, feed, and'stitch-forming mechanism of a sewing-machine, a vibratory cutter, a stationary cutter formed of a plate or bar, and a holding finger or device arranged above said plate or bar, and connected with means for relieving its pressure intermittently, substantially as described.
7. The combination, with the eye-pointed needleand otherelements of asewing-machine, and a trimming attach ment for trimming goods as sewed by said machines, of a presser-foot and an upright projection or shield in front of the ncedles path, substantially as described.
8. A p'resserfoot cut away at the front to form a toe, and provided with an upright projection in front of the needle-hole, substan tially as described.
9. A presser-foot having a portion cutaway close to the needle-hole on one side, and provided with an upright projection in front of the needle hole, substantially as described.
' 10. In a shearing device, the combination, with a stationary cutter or bladeand a vibratory cutter or blade, arranged to operate in connection with each other, and one being capable in operation of a line-movement substantially at right angles to the cutting-edges, of a spring arranged to act upon the blade capable of the aforesaid movementand press said edges into contact with each other, substantially as described.
11. The combination of arock-shaft capable in operation of endwise movement, a spring connected with said shaft, a vibratory cutter or blade attached to said shaft, and a bar or plate having a cutting-edge and capable of adjustment, substantially as described.
i 12. A pair of shear-blades or cutters having cutting-edges slightly oblique to each other, and one of said cutters or blades being capable in operation of a line-movement approximately at right angles to the cutting-edges, in combination with a spring arranged to act upon the blade capable of the aforesaid move- .ment and hold said cuttingedges in contact,
substantially as described.
13. The combination of a rock-shaft capable ;of endwise movement, cutter or shear-blade attached to said shaft, stationary cutter'or blade with oblique cutting-edge, and spring arranged to force said shaft and cutter attached thereto in the direction to maintain the cutting-edges of the two cutters in contact with each other, substantially as described.
14. The combination, with a cutter or blade stationary during its operation but capable ofadjnstment, of a vibratory cutter or blade, rock-shaft carrying said cutter, spring, and adjustable back stop for saidshaft.
15. The combination with a stationary and 1a vibratory cutteror blade having cuttingedges slightly'oblique to each other, of a rockshaft carrying said vibratory blade or cutter, a spring, and an adjustable back stop for saidshaft, substantially as described.
16. Thecombination oftherock-shaft, spring, adjustable back stop, vibratory cutter or blade, bar,orplate, with cutting-edge at one end,and means for securing said bar or plate in position and for permitting its adjustment at, or a 'iproximatelyat, right angles to the cuttingedge.
17. The combination, with the stitch-form ing and feed mechanism of a sewing-machine of ordinary or suitable construction, of a rockshaft connected with and operated byasuitable moving part of said machine, avibratory cutter or blade attached to said shalt, means for adjusting the position of the said shaft and cutter nearer to or farther from the needlehole of the sewing-machine, and a second outa gamma ter or blade stationary duringits operation and also adjustable, substantially as described.
18. In a sewing-machine trimmer, a rockshaft, and vibratory cutter or blade attached to and carried by said shaft, combined with a stationary cutter or blade, as described, said shaft being arranged below the line of the cutting-edge of the stationary cutter or blade, so that in operation the severed portion of the goods may pass over said shaft.
, 19. In a sewing-machine trimmer, acutter or blade formed of a plate or bar with the cutting-edge at the end thereof, in combination with a rock-shaft arranged below the plane of the upper surface of said bar or plate, so that said surface if extended would pass over said shaft, and avibratory cutter or blade attached to said rock-shaft, substantially as described.
20. An automatic trimmer for operation in connection with a sewingmachine of ordinary or suitable construction, comprising the following elements a stationary bar or plate with oblique cuttingedge at the end thereof, means for adjusting said bar or platc,a finger or device for holding stationary the work, or a portion thereof, while cutting, a vibratory blade or cutter, a rock-shaft, spring, and adjustable back stop, substantially as described.
21. The combinatiou,with asewing-niachine and a shearingattach1nent,of adjusting mechanism, as described, comprising a thumb or set screw adapted to regulate mechanicallythat is, by its own proper motion--th e position of the cutting device forming part of said attachment relative to the stitching devices of the sewing-machine, substantially as described.
22. In a sewing-machine trimmer, a flat cutter bar or plate held between fixed guides in or on the cloth-plate, and a clamping device arranged to bear against said bar or plate, so that the latter can be withdrawn byloosening without removing said clamping device, substantially as described.
23. In a sewing-machine with trimming attachment, the flat blade held against the end of the rock-shaft by a screw and prevented from turning on said screw by a suitable projection, such as a steady-pin, substantially as described.
24. In a sewing-machine with trimming attachment, the rock-shaft carrying the vibratory cutter, and supported, as described, on
the cloth-plate, so that the trimmed-off strip will pass over the shaft, substantially as described.
25. In asewing-machine with trimming attachment, the combination, with the rock-shaft supported in bearings on the cloth-plate and cutter attached to said shaft, of an inclined plate located in front of the rock-shaft, substantially as described. 4
26 The combination, with a sewing-machine having a looper-sliaft below the cloth-plate, of a rock-shaft supported back of the presser-foot and looper-shaft and extending from a point close to the presser-foot over the edge' of the cloth-plate, a cutter secured to the end of said rock-shaft adjacent to the presser-foot, so as to project toward the needle of the sewing'ma chine, substantially at right angles to said shaft, and an operating-arm attached to the overhanging end of the rock-shaft aforesaid and connected with an eccentric on'the loopershaft, as set forth.
27. In a sewing-machine with trimming at tachment, the combination, with the presserfoot, finger, and vibratory cutter working between said foot and finger, of an llongated bar or plate adjustably supported in guides on the cloth-plate and projecting under the said finger, so as to co-operate with said vibratory cutter to trim the fabric as it is sewed, substantially as described.
28. The combination, with the cloth-plate, presser-foot, and looper-shaft of the sewingmachine, of the frame carried by said clothplate, the rock-shaft supported in bearings in said frame and extending from a point close to thepresser-foot beyond the edgeot the clothplate, an eccentric on the looper-shaft, connections between the projecting end of the rockshaft and said eccentric, a vibratory cutter attached to the opposite end of the rockshaft,
and an elongated bar or plate supported parallel with said cloth-plate and adapted to cooperate with said vibratory cutter, substantially as described.
In testimony whereof we have signed this specification in the presence of two subscrib- IOO
Publications (1)
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US255578A true US255578A (en) | 1882-03-28 |
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US255578D Expired - Lifetime US255578A (en) | And charles |
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Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US3149590A (en) * | 1962-01-02 | 1964-09-22 | Sr Gilbert Fowler | Sewing machine fabric trimming attachment |
-
0
- US US255578D patent/US255578A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US3149590A (en) * | 1962-01-02 | 1964-09-22 | Sr Gilbert Fowler | Sewing machine fabric trimming attachment |
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