US1920784A - Hemstitch and embroidery seam - Google Patents

Hemstitch and embroidery seam Download PDF

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Publication number
US1920784A
US1920784A US607058A US60705832A US1920784A US 1920784 A US1920784 A US 1920784A US 607058 A US607058 A US 607058A US 60705832 A US60705832 A US 60705832A US 1920784 A US1920784 A US 1920784A
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Prior art keywords
loop
thread
seam
stitches
stitch
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Expired - Lifetime
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US607058A
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Voe Albert H De
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Singer Co
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Singer Co
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Priority to US607058A priority Critical patent/US1920784A/en
Priority claimed from GB941533A external-priority patent/GB396337A/en
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B93/00Stitches; Stitch seams

Definitions

  • This invention relates to improvements in seams for sewed articles and has for an object to enhance the ornam ntal efiect of embroidery, heinstitching, pleat-edging and like scams.
  • a further object of the invention is to provide hemstitch and picot-edge seams according to which the stitching thread in an improved manner, ties back and eiiectively holds the body-inaterial threads which are deflected by a planet during the tion of the heinstitch seam, and which stitching thread, or threads, at the same time more ornamentally and distinctly defines the character of the seam.
  • Figs. 1 and 2 represent top and bottom plan views of one form or" the improved henistitch or openwork seains produced in a section of a bodymaterial, the stitching being effected by a single thread.
  • 3 is a hottozn view oi a prod not according to which the thread-loop con-- catenations are or" a different character at opposite sides or" a row of hemstitch-seain apertures.
  • Fig. 4 represents, in perspective, adjacent singleand double-thread chain-stitch seams, il-
  • a body-material 1 is provided by a piercer with a row or succession of apertures 2 separated by intervening and substantially parallel cross-bars 3 of the body-material.
  • the size and shape of the body-material apertures 2 vary with the type of piercer which may be employed in the hemstitching machine, and the width or" the cross-bars 3 is of course influenced by the extent of feed of the work as well as the threadtension, as will be readily understood.
  • the body-- material threads are secured to define the openings 2 by two rows of stitches of such a character as to serve to bind the cross-bars 3 and to more effectively tie back the body-material threads at opposite sides of the openings 2, the stitches being of an elastic character and therei'ore also adapted to stretch with the body-material.
  • each of these three-stitch figures includes a cross-bar embracing stitch 4 extendinc in the general direction of the seam line, from one to a succeeding piercer-aperture 2, a lateral stitch 5 out of the seam line and anchored in the body-material opposite'to, the last entered piercer-aperture, and a return stitch'6 to said last entered piercer-aperture.
  • These stitches are formed by initially passing a loop of thread 7 through a piercer-aperture 2, detaining and spreading said loop below the body-material, ad-
  • the two-thread seam likewise constitutes repetitions of three-stitch figures, comprising cross-bar embracing stitches 10 disposed in the general direction of the seam line and substantially parallel with the stitches, 4 of the previously described seam, said stitches 10 beingcon nected by lateral stitches 11 out of the seam line and return stitches 12' to the seam line, the stitches 11 extending from the side of the stitches 10 in a direction opposite to the direction of lateral extension of the stitches 5 from the stitches 4.
  • the two-thread chain-stitches are formed by initially passing a loop of needle-thread 13 through a piercer-aperture 2 and into a loop 14 of looper-thread below the work, after which a loop 15 of looper-thread is passed through the needle-thread loop 13 below the loop 14. Aiter the work has been advanced to the next pierceraperture 2, a loop 16 of needle-thread is passed therethrough and through the looper-loop l5, and
  • a succeeding loop 17 of the lo'oper-thread is passed through said loop 16. While the bodymaterial remains stationary, a loop 18 of needlethread is then passed therethrough at a point adjacent to the last entered piercer-aperture. The needle-loop 18 enters the looper-loop l7 and another looper-thread loop 14 is then passed through the'loop 18 below the looper-loop 17. A succeeding three-stitch figure is thereafter started'by passing another loop 13 through the last entered piercer-aperture and enchaining therewith the looper-thread as previously described.'
  • the .picot-edge seam illustrated in Fig. 5 may be formed by severing the cross-bars between the two seam lines of Fig. 1, so that single-thread chain-stitches 4 embrace tufts 20 of body-material threads, the specially formed chain-stitches .producing a highly ornamental edge-finishing effect, particularly when using stitching thread of a color contrasting from that of the body-material.
  • a picot-edge seam of this character is elastic and is therefore better adapted for finishing the edges of elastic body-materials.
  • a body-material provided with a row of hemstitch-seam apertures with intervening cross-bars which-are individually bound by the concatenated loops of a single-thread chain-stitch seam anchored in the body-material adjacent each of said apertures.
  • a body-material provided with a row of hemstitch seam apertures with intervening crossbars secured in spaced relation by a single-thread chain-stitch seam comprising cross-bar embracing enchained loops of a single thread connected by pairs of loops of said thread enchained at the sides of the hemstitch-seam apertures between said cross-bars and anchored in the bodymaterial.
  • a body-material provided with a row of hemstitch-seam apertures with intervening cross-bars which are individually bound at opposite sides of said cross-bars by single-thread chain-stitch seams.
  • a body-material provided with a row of hemstitch-seam apertures with intervening crossbars which are individually bound at one side of said apertures by the concatenated loops of a two-thread chain-stitch seam, and are individually bound at the opposite sides of said apertures by the concatenated loops of a single-thread chain-stitch seam.
  • a body-material provided with adjacent rows of singleand two-thread chain-stitch seams, each of which comprises stitches disposed in the general direction of the seam line connected by a lateral stitch out of and a return stitch into said seam line, said lateral and return stitches being disposed at opposite sides of the respective seams.
  • a body-material provided with an ornamental edge-finishing seam comprising concatenated loops of a single thread anchored in the bodymaterial margin and embracing spaced tufts of the body-materialprojecting beyond said margin.
  • An overedge seam for a body-material constituted' by repetitions of a three-stitch figure of enchained single-thread loops, two successive stitches of said figure being anchored in the bodymaterial and embracing the margin of said bodymaterial, with the other stitch of said figure disposed beyond said margin substantially parallel therewith and embracing a tuft of said bodymaterial projecting beyond its margin.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Description

Aug. 1, 1933. A. H. DE VOE HEMSTITCH AND EMBROIDERY SEAM Filed April 23, 1932 earner or ies Singer Manufacturing Ccinpany, Elizaheth,
N. 37., a @orporation of New .Fersey Application April 23, 1932. Serial No. 607,058
'7 Claims.
This invention relates to improvements in seams for sewed articles and has for an object to enhance the ornam ntal efiect of embroidery, heinstitching, pleat-edging and like scams.
A further object of the invention is to provide hemstitch and picot-edge seams according to which the stitching thread in an improved manner, ties back and eiiectively holds the body-inaterial threads which are deflected by a planet during the tion of the heinstitch seam, and which stitching thread, or threads, at the same time more ornamentally and distinctly defines the character of the seam.
The foregoing and other objects and advantages in view, together with the improved seams whereby the same are attained, will best he understood from the following description of cmbodiments thereof illustrated in the accompanying drawing, in which:
Figs. 1 and 2 represent top and bottom plan views of one form or" the improved henistitch or openwork seains produced in a section of a bodymaterial, the stitching being effected by a single thread. 3 is a hottozn view oi a prod not according to which the thread-loop con-- catenations are or" a different character at opposite sides or" a row of hemstitch-seain apertures. Fig. 4 represents, in perspective, adjacent singleand double-thread chain-stitch seams, il-
lustrated somewhat diagrammatically. Fig. 5
represents a perspective View of a single-thread, ornamental edgefinishing constituting an improved picot-edging.
The novel seams illustrated in the accompanying drawing have been produced by a two-needle hemstitching machine disclosed in my patent application Serial No. 605,407, filed April 15, 1932. In hemstitching, a body-material 1 is provided by a piercer with a row or succession of apertures 2 separated by intervening and substantially parallel cross-bars 3 of the body-material. The size and shape of the body-material apertures 2 vary with the type of piercer which may be employed in the hemstitching machine, and the width or" the cross-bars 3 is of course influenced by the extent of feed of the work as well as the threadtension, as will be readily understood.
According to the present invention, the body-- material threads are secured to define the openings 2 by two rows of stitches of such a character as to serve to bind the cross-bars 3 and to more effectively tie back the body-material threads at opposite sides of the openings 2, the stitches being of an elastic character and therei'ore also adapted to stretch with the body-material.
Referring more particularly toFigs. land 2 of the drawing, each of these three-stitch figures includes a cross-bar embracing stitch 4 extendinc in the general direction of the seam line, from one to a succeeding piercer-aperture 2, a lateral stitch 5 out of the seam line and anchored in the body-material opposite'to, the last entered piercer-aperture, and a return stitch'6 to said last entered piercer-aperture. These stitches are formed by initially passing a loop of thread 7 through a piercer-aperture 2, detaining and spreading said loop below the body-material, ad-
vancing the body-material and passing another 'hread-loop 8 through the next piercer-aperture and through the thread-loop 7. While the bodymaterial remains stationary, a loop of thread 9 is then passed therethrough at a point adjacent to the piercer-aperture in which the loop 8 is disposed, said loop 8 being spread below the bodymaterial to receive the loop 9. A succeeding three-stitch figure is then formedby" passing another loop 7 through the piercer-aperture entered by thethread-loop 8, and by'enchaining said newly formed loop 7 with the previously formed loop 9. While the thread-loop 9 enters the loop 8 at a point in vertical alinement with the direction of penetration of the body-material by said loop 9, the tightening of the stitches draws the loop 8 along the limbs of the loop 9 in the general direction of the adjacent pierceraperture 2. The resulting disposition of the enchained thread-loops outlines the hemstitch seam in a novel and highly ornamental manner, and at the same time serves to very effectively tie back. the body-material threads between successive cross-bars 3.
By combining the single-thread chain-stitch seam, before described, with a two-thread chainstitch seam as illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4 of the drawing, there is produced a contrasting effect enhancing the ornamental appearance of the embroidery seam and particularly in hemstitching. The two-thread seam likewise constitutes repetitions of three-stitch figures, comprising cross-bar embracing stitches 10 disposed in the general direction of the seam line and substantially parallel with the stitches, 4 of the previously described seam, said stitches 10 beingcon nected by lateral stitches 11 out of the seam line and return stitches 12' to the seam line, the stitches 11 extending from the side of the stitches 10 in a direction opposite to the direction of lateral extension of the stitches 5 from the stitches 4.
The two-thread chain-stitches are formed by initially passing a loop of needle-thread 13 through a piercer-aperture 2 and into a loop 14 of looper-thread below the work, after which a loop 15 of looper-thread is passed through the needle-thread loop 13 below the loop 14. Aiter the work has been advanced to the next pierceraperture 2, a loop 16 of needle-thread is passed therethrough and through the looper-loop l5, and
a succeeding loop 17 of the lo'oper-thread is passed through said loop 16. While the bodymaterial remains stationary, a loop 18 of needlethread is then passed therethrough at a point adjacent to the last entered piercer-aperture. The needle-loop 18 enters the looper-loop l7 and another looper-thread loop 14 is then passed through the'loop 18 below the looper-loop 17. A succeeding three-stitch figure is thereafter started'by passing another loop 13 through the last entered piercer-aperture and enchaining therewith the looper-thread as previously described.'
-. The .picot-edge seam illustrated in Fig. 5 may be formed by severing the cross-bars between the two seam lines of Fig. 1, so that single-thread chain-stitches 4 embrace tufts 20 of body-material threads, the specially formed chain-stitches .producing a highly ornamental edge-finishing effect, particularly when using stitching thread of a color contrasting from that of the body-material. A picot-edge seam of this character is elastic and is therefore better adapted for finishing the edges of elastic body-materials.
Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim herein is:-
1. A body-material provided with a row of hemstitch-seam apertures with intervening cross-bars which-are individually bound by the concatenated loops of a single-thread chain-stitch seam anchored in the body-material adjacent each of said apertures.
2. A body-material provided with a row of hemstitch seam apertures with intervening crossbars secured in spaced relation by a single-thread chain-stitch seam comprising cross-bar embracing enchained loops of a single thread connected by pairs of loops of said thread enchained at the sides of the hemstitch-seam apertures between said cross-bars and anchored in the bodymaterial.
3. A body-material provided with a row of hemstitch-seam apertures with intervening cross-bars which are individually bound at opposite sides of said cross-bars by single-thread chain-stitch seams.
4. A body-material provided with a row of hemstitch-seam apertures with intervening crossbars which are individually bound at one side of said apertures by the concatenated loops of a two-thread chain-stitch seam, and are individually bound at the opposite sides of said apertures by the concatenated loops of a single-thread chain-stitch seam.
' 5. A body-material provided with adjacent rows of singleand two-thread chain-stitch seams, each of which comprises stitches disposed in the general direction of the seam line connected by a lateral stitch out of and a return stitch into said seam line, said lateral and return stitches being disposed at opposite sides of the respective seams.
6. A body-material provided with an ornamental edge-finishing seam comprising concatenated loops of a single thread anchored in the bodymaterial margin and embracing spaced tufts of the body-materialprojecting beyond said margin.
7. An overedge seam for a body-material constituted' by repetitions of a three-stitch figure of enchained single-thread loops, two successive stitches of said figure being anchored in the bodymaterial and embracing the margin of said bodymaterial, with the other stitch of said figure disposed beyond said margin substantially parallel therewith and embracing a tuft of said bodymaterial projecting beyond its margin.
ALBERT H. DE VOE.
US607058A 1932-04-23 1932-04-23 Hemstitch and embroidery seam Expired - Lifetime US1920784A (en)

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US607058A US1920784A (en) 1932-04-23 1932-04-23 Hemstitch and embroidery seam
GB941533A GB396337A (en) 1933-03-29 1933-03-29 Hemstitch and embroidery seams

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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5381745A (en) * 1991-10-28 1995-01-17 Union Special Gmbh Method of sewing a seam and a sewing unit therefor
US20060278144A1 (en) * 2003-05-05 2006-12-14 Georg Janouschek Sewing machine
US20140076222A1 (en) * 2011-05-23 2014-03-20 Yamato Mishin Seizo Kabushiki Kaisha Seam ravel preventing method, seam ravel preventing apparatus and seam structure
US20150136004A1 (en) * 2011-08-08 2015-05-21 Yamato Sewing Machine Mfg. Co., Ltd. Multi-thread chain stitch sewing machine with seam ravel preventing apparatus

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5381745A (en) * 1991-10-28 1995-01-17 Union Special Gmbh Method of sewing a seam and a sewing unit therefor
US20060278144A1 (en) * 2003-05-05 2006-12-14 Georg Janouschek Sewing machine
US7353761B2 (en) * 2003-05-05 2008-04-08 Georg Janouschek Sewing machine
US20140076222A1 (en) * 2011-05-23 2014-03-20 Yamato Mishin Seizo Kabushiki Kaisha Seam ravel preventing method, seam ravel preventing apparatus and seam structure
US8943985B2 (en) * 2011-05-23 2015-02-03 Yamato Mishin Seizo Kabushiki Kaisha Seam ravel preventing method, seam ravel preventing apparatus and seam structure
US20150136004A1 (en) * 2011-08-08 2015-05-21 Yamato Sewing Machine Mfg. Co., Ltd. Multi-thread chain stitch sewing machine with seam ravel preventing apparatus

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