US1896783A - Elastic fabric - Google Patents
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- US1896783A US1896783A US619076A US61907632A US1896783A US 1896783 A US1896783 A US 1896783A US 619076 A US619076 A US 619076A US 61907632 A US61907632 A US 61907632A US 1896783 A US1896783 A US 1896783A
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- elastic
- fabric
- wefts
- warps
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
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- the invention relates to elastic fabrics, and has as its object the provision of novel and improved elastic ⁇ fabrics for use in the manufacture of corsets, girdles, and other similar and related garments or articles designed to support and confine the part of the bodyupon which they 'are worn.y
- Elastic fabrics have their elasticity conferred4 through the inclusion of component elements which are themselves elastic and capable of elongation, such as the vulcanized rubber Acords widely used for this purpose, as distinguished from fabrics made of purely textile elements in whichI a certain lamo-unt of yield is attained through pulling out or Astraightening the bends and undulations into which the elements are thrown by reason of their twist or' their interengagement in forming the fabric.
- All commercially successful elastic fabrics hitherto devised and used have had capacity for contraction andv subsequent stretching conferred'through the use of elastic elements extending only in one direction, either in the direction of their length or of their width, and never in both directions at once.
- novel elastic fabrics which are capable of being tion of their length and in the direction of their width and of course in any intermediate direction or directions as well. These novel fabrics are capable of being used alone, or
- the main specific function of the provision of transverse stretch is to permit the garment to become wider or narrower exactly as the underlying skin areas lengthen or contract, so that there will be no movement relative to the skin at the top and the bottom edges of the girdle.
- the requisite of the transverse stretch is that it shall yield to permit the garment to increase its vertical width, or height, wherever needed, so that these marginal portions shall not be forced to slip at the convex side of a bend; but at the same time there must be sufficient contractive effort to bring the garthe body is again straightened out, and also, if desired, to take care of the fullness otherwise forming at the concave side of a bend.
- the transverse contractive force may be modified in several ways, as by inserting the transverse elastic elements with relatively low tension or otherwise making them operate in lightly stretched relation when worn, or by putting in less rubber either by reducing lthe diameter of other factors being equal, by inserting the covered rubber warp cords so that they will be about 50"@ extended as they lie in the normal contracted fabric, While the covered rubber weft cords will have a 20% extension as they lie in the fabric under the same conditions, with the warpwise and wcftwise extension of the fabric as a whole limited re'- spectively to around 50% and 30% above its contracted dimensions. The tensions thus given to the elastic warps'and.
- wefts are of course modified by the presence, number, and length of the non-elastic or fibrous Warps generally used in all elastic fabrics, and the number, size, and length of the picks of the weft, both elastic and non-elastic, Within limits known to those skilled in this art;
- the rubber Warps employed are preferably but not necessarily of fairly large diameter, the, uncovered rubber core being on the order of 1/30 or 1/40 of an inch, whereas the rubber Wefts are of much smaller diameter, their core frequently being of 1/100 of an inch inv size, and in'all cases being approximately commensurate with the size of the non-elastic warps and Wefts which are or may be used in these fabrics; an elastic cord essentially suitable for use as weft in carrying the invention into effect is that set forth in U. S. Letters Patent #1,822,847, granted on Sept. 8, 1931 to Percy Adamson.
- an important feature of the invention provides for inserting the elastic warps in the woven fabric in substantially completely expanded relationship, stretched as close to the breaking point as is safe, while putting in the elastic wefts under.
- Fig. 2 is a similar diagrammatical representationof a section on line 2-2 of Fig. 1, at right angles to thewarps, with lthe fiberv wefts omitted for clarity.
- Figs. 3 and 4 show leno fabrics, longitudinally extensible, which are rendered capable -of simultaneous transverse stretch through the use of elastic wefts in accordance with the invention.
- Figs. 5 and 6 show other leno fabrics including both elastic warp and elastic weft, and hence extensible simultaneously both warpwise and weftwise in accordance with the invention.
- Fig. 7 shows a fabric in which elastic warps are combined with elastic and nonelastic wefts without interweaving, by the use of straight-.woven face and back nonelastic binder warps.
- Fig. 8 shows a typical girdle, the component fabric of which, indicated at a ma be any one of the invention fabrics of the oregoing figures.
- Figs. 1 and 2 illustrates the novel fabric as made by weaving, and -integrally combined with portions direction of their length, a combination having obvious desirable features for use in the manufacture vof girdles and/corsets.
- the central portion of the width of the fabric extending from B t0 C comprises the novel elastic fabric'having capacity for stretching length and of its width, or two-way stretch, while the flanking portions of the width of the integral fabric which extend from A to B and from C to D are capable of'being stretched only in the direction of their length,
- Figs. 1 and 2 comprises elastic warps 1, which may be of any suitable construction, such as the usual vulcanized elastic rubber strands or cords, covered in well-known manner with fibrous wrappings made of several lies of suitable yarn.
- elastic warps 1 may be of any suitable construction, such as the usual vulcanized elastic rubber strands or cords, covered in well-known manner with fibrous wrappings made of several lies of suitable yarn.
- .Between each pair o rubber warps l are fibrous non-elastic warps 3, three of which are used between each pair of elastic warps in the one-way stretch fabric, and two of which are employed between each pair of elastic warps in the intermediate two-way stretch portion, the reduction in the number of uibrous warps in the two-way stretch portion being to compensate for the increased body otherwise resulting from the insertion of .the elastic weft in th1s portion, as will be described.
- Face and back fibrous non-elastic wefts 5, 6, are interwoven with the warps 3 in any desired manner depending on the character or figure desired 'to be produced on the face and back,'and in the weave shown result in the productionof a face and-back having identicalv appearance, a feature ofadvantage in certain uses to which lthe fabric may be put, as where the garment is desired to'bemade reversible.
- the face and back wefts 5, 6, are not interwoven with the individual elastic warps 1, being pressed tightly enough against the face and back surfaces of thewarps 1 through the laction of the "of woven fabric having stretch onl in the simultaneously both in the direction of its fibrous binder warps 3 to maintain the elastic f warps l against slipping in the fabric even though these warps 1 are woven under tension.
- the marginal one-way stretch portion with the central two-Way stretch portion changing just outward of the warp 1"-, and lying/at the back across the full Width of the two-way stretch portion and returning to the face over the elastic warp la adjacent theline C at the right-hand edge of the two-way stretch portion, remaining at the face across the other portion having one-Way stretch eztending from C to D, or to the selvage of this latter portion, as will be understood.
- the back wefts 6 similarly change to the face at the line B, and return to the back just before they reach elastic Warp la.A
- the practice of the invention being in no way dependent on the particular method of working these wefts, it is to be understood that this is merely one satisfactory Way of doing so, and is not restrictive.
- the novel elastic weft 7 is inserted in the fabric from line B to line C to form the twoway stretch portion, herein being interwoven with the elastic warps l across 'the interval, and it may likewise .be interwoven with the fibrous warps 3 in any suitable or desired manner.
- the material of this elastic weft 7 may be any known rubber cord, preferably covered, of suitable character, such as that of the Adamson patent aforesaid. It is desired that the uncovered rubber core itself lbe of relatively small diameter, and an indication of the proper size is that it should be substantially commensurate in diameter with the non-elastic fibrous warps 3 which will be used in the fabric; in other words, the core of the rubber cord will normally range from No. (1/50. of an inch in diameter) through various smaller sizes. It is found that larger wefts, being stronger, have to be separated farther apart from each other in .v
- Elastic wefts of the sizes indicated, being ne be put much closer together without making the fabric too strong and without loss of the desired contraction ratio aforesaid, even when the non-elastic wefts are eliminated entirely; though where used, the reduced are weak, and the successive picks canA number of intervening non-elastic wefts makes possible the controlled and nearly invisible gathering or shirringof these wefts, and the rubber weft cords being smaller in diameter there are no transverse ribs.
- the result is a smooth surfaced fabric eminently suitable to go against the skin.
- the elastic weft is preferably inserted under a tension sufficient with regard to the various factors to produce the widthwise contraction of the fabric wheny taken from the loom which is to bring the garment fashioned therefrom back into ⁇ shape as the wearer straighteus up, without causing slipping of the margins of the garment when the wearer bends.
- This weft tension is of appreciable extent and easily ascertained by one skilled in the art; it is of tot-ally different and lesser degree from the tension under which the elastic warps are inserted. These latter are pulled out practically to the limit of their stretch, while the elastic wefts, on the other' shuttle.
- the non-elastic or fibrous wefts 5, 6, act in another Way to create and preserve the proper working ratio between the lengthwise and transverse contractibility, through compelling the elastic wefts to operate within a narrow range of relatively gentle tensions at the beginning of their stretch.
- the elastic wefts because put in under tension, are normally shorter than the non-elastic weft elements, but they are not drawn -out to the limit of their stretch at the time when they are put in; hence the fibrous wefts 5, 6, prevent'the rubber wefts from ever being stretched beyond the moderate tension at which inserted, and therefore prevent the'contractive effort of the elastic wefts from reaching'anywhere near their maximum because the fibrous wefts limit .
- the two-way stretch fabric as shown between the'lines B and C may be woven as a single homogeneous material.
- the one-way stretch cuff flanking the topand bottom edges of the two-way stretch portion as the fabric is utilized in a girdle possesses a rigidity and freedom from yield or stretch up and .down the ,wearers bod y which definitely grips the underlying sur aces and serves to belt the top and bottom of thegarment to definite points on the wearers body above the hip bones and below the hips, and to fix the position of these portions of the garment, while the intermediate two-way stretch portion spreads and recovers as the underlying portions of the body become convex or concave; and further provides a rigid band at the bottom of the garment for sewing the garters to.
- the invention fabric enables the maker of such corsets and garters and similar garments easilyl to define the waist line of the wearer and to define it in such a way as not to impede the movementsnor interfere with the comfort of the wearer,
- non-elastic or fibrous -wefts 15, 17, without interweaving, a non-elastic leno warp 1 9, 21, being associated with eachY rubber warp 9 and crossing back and forth over its rubber warp at one surface of the fabric to engage beneath a air of elements comprisin .a fibrous weft 1 and an elastic weft -11 lylng at the back of the fabric. In -f and-aai-ce fibrous weft 15 against its proper elastic warp 9.
- Each twox adjacent lenorp its c ⁇ ng, it binds a face elastic 'weft 13 warps are run symmetrically with respect to each other, converging ⁇ and diverging-and crossing their respective warps with opposite inclination, as plain in Fig. 3.v
- Fig. 4, '125 the construction is identical,- except that the leno warps 23 are all run parallel to each other, the difference resulting in-dg'iving the fabric of Fig. 3a slight reticulate or honeycomb aspect, while that of Fig. 4 has adis- ⁇ tinctly ribbed ⁇ o r twilled appearance.
- reticulated is notably more level and totally devoid of longitudinal ribs
- that of Fig. 4 has low transverse ribs which present a flatter and more level-surface than the construction of Fig. 1.
- the other advantages attained in the fabric of Fig. 1 are secured in even greater measure, for the elastic wefts are inserted in adjacent pairs at opposite faces of the fabric, and through being run without interweaving are easily balanced in tension, one against the other, to make a fabric that will li'e fiat; while the fibrous wefts 15, 17, which thin out the elastic wefts are even more intimately associated each with its adjacent elastic weft by the binding action of the leno, so as even more completely to allow.
- Fig. 5 shows another form of two-way stretch leno fabric related to that shown in Fig. 4, having in addition to the elements and arrangements of Fig. 4 a non-elastic fibrous warp 25 associated with each elastic warp 9, and worked the same way as its proper elastic warp with respect to the elastic wefts.
- the fibrous warps 25 are included within the crossings of the parallel lenos associated with each elasticy warp 9. The result is a fabric alternate ones are conspicious and intermediate ones are not noticed, owing to the changing slant of the lenos; while the back is notably smoother than in the other examples owl ing to the presence of the fibrous warp 25.
- Fig. 6 the elastic wefts are paired and opposed at opposite faces of the fabric without interweaving with the warps, as described.
- .Two fibrous warps 27 29, are a's- Sociated with each elastic warp 9, while two -leno warps cooperate with each group of elastic and non-elastic warps, instead of one, as in the prior examples.
- the fibrous warps 29 engage under two picks and over every third, whether rubber or fiber, while the intermediate fibrous warps 27 engage under five picks and over the sixth; they are properly back warps and impart softness and smoothness to the back.
- Each rubber warp has two fibrous warps 27, 29, associated with it, and included within the zigzags of its proper face and back lenos. It is to be noted that the face and back lenos bot-h pass from one face of the fabric to the other at the same time; this makes a crossing of these warps which spreads apart the wefts immediately preceding and following such crossing Since this crossing occurs after every other pick and occasionally both before and after a single pick, the fabric is given an openwork texture V l10:)
- pect differing from the diagonal honeycomb appearance of Fig. 3, as the face leno does not clip the corners o f the squares defined by the warps and wefts.
- the back of the fabric is exceedingly soft and smooth, owing to the long floats of the fibrous warps 29 and the additional fibrous back wefts 32 and 33.
- Fig. 7 shows a straight weave in which the elastic warps 9 are likewise not interwoven with the elastic wefts 41, 43, but establish the latter in face and back weft planes.
- the elastic wefts are each accompanied by adjacent fibrous wefts 45, 47, respectively, worked the same way as their respective elastic wefts, and the wefts are bound to the elastic warps by fibrous warps 49, 51, which are worked in a warp twill weave, passing under aback elastic weft 43 and its associated back fibrous weft 47 and thereafter floating for six picks at the surface.
- the face and back of the fabric are identical, as the back warps 51 are worked in similar manner.
- woven elastic fabric having in combination elastic rubber warp elements, elastic rubber weft elements, non-elastic yarns limiting the stretch of the elastic warps at or about the maximum extensibility of the latter, and non-elastic yarns preventing the stretch of the elastic wefts beyond a fraction f of their normal extensibility.
- elastic fabric comprising in combination one or more marginal portions capable of being stretched lengthwise only and an intermediate portion capable of being stretched simultaneously both lengthwise and crosswise.
- a corset, girdle, or the like supporting garment including in its composition an elastic fabric having in combination a set of elastic and non-elastic warps, and a set of elastic and non-elastic wefts, the stretch of the'fabric in the direction of one of these sets of elements being limited to less than the stretch in the direction of the other set.
- woven elastic fabric having in combination elastic warps distributed across substantially the full width of the fabric, and elastic wefts inserted in groups of one or more pairs of oppositely-work'ed adjacent picks each of which picks in a ⁇ pair substantially -balances the tendency of the pther pick to curl the fabric, with the groups separated by one or more picks of non-elastic weft, and with the elastic weft less in extent than the widthof the fabric.
- Woven elastic ⁇ fabric having in combination elastic warps, elastic and non-elastic wefts crossing the elastic warps without interweaving therewith, and non-elastic warps binding a' pair of adjacent wefts, comprising an elastic weft and a non-elastic weft, to the elastic warps alternately at one face and then at the other of the fabric, the elastic wefts being inserted in adjacent pairs.
- Woven elastic fabric having in combination elastic warps, V'face and back elastic wefts, face and back non-,elastic wefts, and leno warps engaging first a face elastic weft,
- elastic fabric'havng component elements ,o rubber permit-ting simultaneous stretching of the garment in two dimensions through elongation of the rubber elements, the contrastive force of the elastic fabric in the garment being materially greater in one of such dimensions than in the other, under like conditions.
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Description
Feb. 7, 1933.
T. F. MOORE ELASTIC FABRIC Filed June 24j, 1952 2` Sheets-Sheet l MITI ,/...lllll v B lnljl ATTORNY.
2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR.
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T; F. MOQRE ELASTIC FABRIC Filed June 24, 1952 Feb. 7, 1933.
ATTORNEY.
Patented Feb. 7, 1933 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE THOMAS F. MOORE, OF WESTERLY, RHODE ISLAND, ASSIGNOR TO GEORGE C. MOORE COM- PANY, OF WESTERLY, RHODE ISLAND, A CORPORATION OF RHODE ISLAND ELASTIC Application 'filed June 24,
The present application is a continuation in part of my prior application Serial No. 571,363-,.filed October 27, 1931, in so far as the contents of this present application have been set forth in such earlier application.
The invention relates to elastic fabrics, and has as its object the provision of novel and improved elastic` fabrics for use in the manufacture of corsets, girdles, and other similar and related garments or articles designed to support and confine the part of the bodyupon which they 'are worn.y
Elastic fabrics,- as properly so-called, have their elasticity conferred4 through the inclusion of component elements which are themselves elastic and capable of elongation, such as the vulcanized rubber Acords widely used for this purpose, as distinguished from fabrics made of purely textile elements in whichI a certain lamo-unt of yield is attained through pulling out or Astraightening the bends and undulations into which the elements are thrown by reason of their twist or' their interengagement in forming the fabric. But all commercially successful elastic fabrics hitherto devised and used have had capacity for contraction andv subsequent stretching conferred'through the use of elastic elements extending only in one direction, either in the direction of their length or of their width, and never in both directions at once. Corsets, girdles, and the like articles made` from such prior fabrics have been inherently incapable of accommodating themselves closely to the body of the wearer when the portion of the wearers body has been subjected4 to bending within the width of the garment, as at the waist and across the hips of the wearer ofl such a garment. This is because these elastic fabrics, hitherto having a stretch in only one directionfhave to be employed with the direction of stretch disposed circumferentially around the wearers body, in order to attain the desired confining effect. Being inelastic and incapable of elongation in a direction up and down the wearers body, the upper andlower margins lof the garment are forced to slip andslide over thewear'ers body as the underlying portions ofthe body become more or FABRIC 1932. Serial No. 619,076.
less convex and hence lengthened or shortened in surface, and.' these marginal portions tend thereafter to remain in the undesired positions to which they have been thus pulled, destroying the smoothness of line of the gar-l ment and causing discomfort and embarrassment to the wearer, and requiring undesirable manual readjustment to restore them to place. Also, uncomfortable Iand unsightly folds tend to be produced on the concave side of the bend in the garment, with the accompanying well-known and unsightly fault of having the garment gape away from the wearers back when in a bending or sitting position.
With the object of overcoming these welllinown drawbacks, I have devised novel elastic fabrics which are capable of being tion of their length and in the direction of their width and of course in any intermediate direction or directions as well. These novel fabrics are capable of being used alone, or
' in combination with the known fabrics having stretch in one direction only, to make supporting and lconfining garments .which will hug the wearers body at all points in their width and conform to thechanging convex and concave outlines of the b ody without slipping or gaping of the marginal portions, and without wrinkling or folding across portions of concave outlines, because they are capable of contraction and expansion. widthwise in .similar manner to the eX- tension and contraction of the underlying surfaces of the wearers body.
Since these fabrics are used almost exclusively in the manufacture of corsets, girdles and other articles designed to surround an confine. a portion of the wearers body, their chief function is to contract about and thus press radially inward upon the surface which they surround. To perform this primary function, in both woven fabrics such as shown and described herein, and knitted fabrics such as form the subject-matter of my copending application filed Jan. 29, 1932, Serial Y f "stretched simultaneously both in the direc- L l ment into shape when the enclosed part of narily longitudinal contraction of the fabric when Woven), have to exert a fairly considerable degreeof contractive {effort This may be achieved in any of the familiar ways known in the art, as by running the longitudinal elastic elements as tightly as possible in the weaving or otherwise making Vthem `operate near the limit of their stretch when in wear, or by making these elements of large diameter and hence powerful in their contraction, on by putting them in large numbers and close together, or by a combination of these and other methods.
On the other hand, and as concerns the transverse stretch, which is directed up and down the portion of the body confined by the` garment, I have found that this transverse contractibility of such a two-way stretch fabric must not exceed in its strengththe tendency of the marginal portions of the garment to cling to the skin or underlying surfaces, otherwise the marginal portions of the garment will not be permitted to stay in their intended places While the enclosed portions of the wearers body assume a convex or concave realtion and the main purpose of the provision of transverse stretch will thus be defeated. In other words, the main specific function of the provision of transverse stretch is to permit the garment to become wider or narrower exactly as the underlying skin areas lengthen or contract, so that there will be no movement relative to the skin at the top and the bottom edges of the girdle. The requisite of the transverse stretch is that it shall yield to permit the garment to increase its vertical width, or height, wherever needed, so that these marginal portions shall not be forced to slip at the convex side of a bend; but at the same time there must be sufficient contractive effort to bring the garthe body is again straightened out, and also, if desired, to take care of the fullness otherwise forming at the concave side of a bend. Thus, it will be apparent that the tendency of the garment to contract transversely must not exceed th tendency of the marginal portions to clingthrough friction to the points on the wearers bodywat which they have been applied, and the"`/tendency to cling is determined largely by the working tension or contractive effort of the elastic elements which create the tightness of the confining portion of the garment.
I have found that there is thus a definite requirement that the transverse contractive effort, or resistance to stretch up and down the/ wearers body, must be substantially less than the longitudinal (or peripheral) contractive effort exerted as the garment is worn, otherwisethe marginal portions of the girdle will slip just as in the prior one-way str/etch fabric girdles, and require t0 be tugged into place following-a bending posture of the enclosed portions of the wearers body. Like the grip of the garment, the transverse contractive force may be modified in several ways, as by inserting the transverse elastic elements with relatively low tension or otherwise making them operate in lightly stretched relation when worn, or by putting in less rubber either by reducing lthe diameter of other factors being equal, by inserting the covered rubber warp cords so that they will be about 50"@ extended as they lie in the normal contracted fabric, While the covered rubber weft cords will have a 20% extension as they lie in the fabric under the same conditions, with the warpwise and wcftwise extension of the fabric as a whole limited re'- spectively to around 50% and 30% above its contracted dimensions. The tensions thus given to the elastic warps'and. wefts are of course modified by the presence, number, and length of the non-elastic or fibrous Warps generally used in all elastic fabrics, and the number, size, and length of the picks of the weft, both elastic and non-elastic, Within limits known to those skilled in this art;
To fulfill the primary function of the fabric in making a confining garment, the rubber Warps employed are preferably but not necessarily of fairly large diameter, the, uncovered rubber core being on the order of 1/30 or 1/40 of an inch, whereas the rubber Wefts are of much smaller diameter, their core frequently being of 1/100 of an inch inv size, and in'all cases being approximately commensurate with the size of the non-elastic warps and Wefts which are or may be used in these fabrics; an elastic cord essentially suitable for use as weft in carrying the invention into effect is that set forth in U. S. Letters Patent #1,822,847, granted on Sept. 8, 1931 to Percy Adamson.
Under all ordinary circumstances, therev will be a greater amount of rubber in the Warp than in the weft, or in a knit fabric, in the warp'than in the other angular-ly disposed elements, attained either by putting in more ends of rubber, or by using heavier rubbers, to give more resistance-to stretching Awarpwise than transversely. But because the same rubber cord will 'contract more strongly when stretched to near the limit of its extensibility than it will at the beginning of its stretch, starting from fully or nearly contracted relation, an important feature of the invention provides for inserting the elastic warps in the woven fabric in substantially completely expanded relationship, stretched as close to the breaking point as is safe, while putting in the elastic wefts under.
a-tension which leaves them far short of their full extension. Thus, other things being equal, an equal number of identical warps and wefts per inch put in in accordance with this phase of the invention can be made to give a greatly preponderant force of contraction to the fabric in the direction of the warps. The insertion of non-elastic wefts along with the elastic wefts, while these latter are being put in at well under maximum tension, perpetuates the relationship thus established throu h preventing weftwise strains on the fabric from stretching the elastic wefts far enoughto run up their tensions to a degree comparable withI those of the elastic warps.
\ Thus I prefer to use non-elastic weft along with the elastic weft. If all the picks be made elastic, and inserted in suiiicient numbers t0 give the fabric the required body, the
contractive power of these wefts is apt to be so great, even when the fine rubber cords just indicated are used as weft, as to overcome the friction of the marginal portions ,of the fabric against the underlying surfaces, making the fabric slip instead of stretching as the wearer bends over, unless an unusually rough frictional surface be provided onthe fabric, which latter narrows the `field of the fabrics utility. The fibrous wefts make possible an exact and easy proportioning of the weftwise contractiveppower of the fabric'toV the warpwise contractive power, because they can be added or reduced in number to complement the reduction or'addition of the rubber wefts, while keeping the density of the fabric as desired. Thus the presence of the fibrous wefts is important both as regards the rubber warps and as regards the Vrubber wefts,
" because-by diluting the concentration of the rubber wefts it facilitates the obtaining of anyvdesired ratio between the lengthwise and tion of their length. 69v
Fig. 2 is a similar diagrammatical representationof a section on line 2-2 of Fig. 1, at right angles to thewarps, with lthe fiberv wefts omitted for clarity.
Figs. 3 and 4 show leno fabrics, longitudinally extensible, which are rendered capable -of simultaneous transverse stretch through the use of elastic wefts in accordance with the invention.
Figs. 5 and 6 show other leno fabrics including both elastic warp and elastic weft, and hence extensible simultaneously both warpwise and weftwise in accordance with the invention.
Fig. 7 shows a fabric in which elastic warps are combined with elastic and nonelastic wefts without interweaving, by the use of straight-.woven face and back nonelastic binder warps.
Fig. 8 shows a typical girdle, the component fabric of which, indicated at a ma be any one of the invention fabrics of the oregoing figures.
The embodiment shown in Figs. 1 and 2 illustrates the novel fabric as made by weaving, and -integrally combined with portions direction of their length, a combination having obvious desirable features for use in the manufacture vof girdles and/corsets. Thus, the central portion of the width of the fabric extending from B t0 C comprises the novel elastic fabric'having capacity for stretching length and of its width, or two-way stretch, while the flanking portions of the width of the integral fabric which extend from A to B and from C to D are capable of'being stretched only in the direction of their length,
and thus have one-way stretch.
The particular embodiment of Figs. 1 and 2 comprises elastic warps 1, which may be of any suitable construction, such as the usual vulcanized elastic rubber strands or cords, covered in well-known manner with fibrous wrappings made of several lies of suitable yarn. .Between each pair o rubber warps l are fibrous non-elastic warps 3, three of which are used between each pair of elastic warps in the one-way stretch fabric, and two of which are employed between each pair of elastic warps in the intermediate two-way stretch portion, the reduction in the number of uibrous warps in the two-way stretch portion being to compensate for the increased body otherwise resulting from the insertion of .the elastic weft in th1s portion, as will be described. Face and back fibrous non-elastic wefts 5, 6, are interwoven with the warps 3 in any desired manner depending on the character or figure desired 'to be produced on the face and back,'and in the weave shown result in the productionof a face and-back having identicalv appearance, a feature ofadvantage in certain uses to which lthe fabric may be put, as where the garment is desired to'bemade reversible. The face and back wefts 5, 6, are not interwoven with the individual elastic warps 1, being pressed tightly enough against the face and back surfaces of thewarps 1 through the laction of the "of woven fabric having stretch onl in the simultaneously both in the direction of its fibrous binder warps 3 to maintain the elastic f warps l against slipping in the fabric even though these warps 1 are woven under tension. The face wefts 5 after traversing the one-way stretch portionpass to the back of the fabric at the line B joining .the marginal one-way stretch portion with the central two-Way stretch portion, changing just outward of the warp 1"-, and lying/at the back across the full Width of the two-way stretch portion and returning to the face over the elastic warp la adjacent theline C at the right-hand edge of the two-way stretch portion, remaining at the face across the other portion having one-Way stretch eztending from C to D, or to the selvage of this latter portion, as will be understood. The back wefts 6 similarly change to the face at the line B, and return to the back just before they reach elastic Warp la.A The practice of the invention being in no way dependent on the particular method of working these wefts, it is to be understood that this is merely one satisfactory Way of doing so, and is not restrictive.
The novel elastic weft 7 is inserted in the fabric from line B to line C to form the twoway stretch portion, herein being interwoven with the elastic warps l across 'the interval, and it may likewise .be interwoven with the fibrous warps 3 in any suitable or desired manner. The material of this elastic weft 7 may be any known rubber cord, preferably covered, of suitable character, such as that of the Adamson patent aforesaid. It is desired that the uncovered rubber core itself lbe of relatively small diameter, and an indication of the proper size is that it should be substantially commensurate in diameter with the non-elastic fibrous warps 3 which will be used in the fabric; in other words, the core of the rubber cord will normally range from No. (1/50. of an inch in diameter) through various smaller sizes. It is found that larger wefts, being stronger, have to be separated farther apart from each other in .v
- the fabric, insorder to make the fabric gentle enough in its transverse stretch to have the proper ratio toits lengthwise stretch, and this. excessive spacing of the wefts, with the requisite filling-in of non-elastic wefts to give body, tends to make the intermediate areas of the latter shirred and uneven when the rubber warps contract and gather them, also forming transverse ribs where the rubber wefts are. Such a fabric becomes unsuitable for use as `an undergarment, as too rough to go against or close to the skin. Elastic wefts of the sizes indicated, being ne, be put much closer together without making the fabric too strong and without loss of the desired contraction ratio aforesaid, even when the non-elastic wefts are eliminated entirely; though where used, the reduced are weak, and the successive picks canA number of intervening non-elastic wefts makes possible the controlled and nearly invisible gathering or shirringof these wefts, and the rubber weft cords being smaller in diameter there are no transverse ribs. The result is a smooth surfaced fabric eminently suitable to go against the skin.
It `is essential that the fabric shall lie` flat, and not tend to curl or roll up, when taken fromthe loom, otherwise the fabric has little or no commercial value.v This requirement, more-diflicult of attainment in a two-way stretch fabric than in the previous one-way stretch materials, has been met in accordance with the invention through balancing the amount of rubber at one face by an equal amount at the other, both as regards the rubber warp and as concerns the rubber weft; and through preferably always inserting two elastic picks side by side in directly opposed relation, these successive picks Work directly against each other and cancel each others tendency to curl the fabric, even though a number of non-elastic wefts precede and follow cach pair.
The elastic weft is preferably inserted under a tension sufficient with regard to the various factors to produce the widthwise contraction of the fabric wheny taken from the loom which is to bring the garment fashioned therefrom back into `shape as the wearer straighteus up, without causing slipping of the margins of the garment when the wearer bends. lThis weft tension is of appreciable extent and easily ascertained by one skilled in the art; it is of tot-ally different and lesser degree from the tension under which the elastic warps are inserted. These latter are pulled out practically to the limit of their stretch, while the elastic wefts, on the other' shuttle.
The non-elastic or fibrous wefts 5, 6, act in another Way to create and preserve the proper working ratio between the lengthwise and transverse contractibility, through compelling the elastic wefts to operate within a narrow range of relatively gentle tensions at the beginning of their stretch. In this and the otherfabrics of the inventionthe elastic wefts because put in under tension, are normally shorter than the non-elastic weft elements, but they are not drawn -out to the limit of their stretch at the time when they are put in; hence the fibrous wefts 5, 6, prevent'the rubber wefts from ever being stretched beyond the moderate tension at which inserted, and therefore prevent the'contractive effort of the elastic wefts from reaching'anywhere near their maximum because the fibrous wefts limit .the stretchv long before the elastic ele- Leganes y fibrous warp wrapped around it through the same eye in the harness and the same dent in the reed as disclosed in Patents lNos. 1,566,- 727, and 1,577,728, granted on Dec. 22, 1925, to F. L. Brigham; as there, I insert a pick of rubber weft which is not extended to its fulll stretch, and insert alongside of it a stretch limiting non-elastic weft. The non-elastic weft of course has the same eHect as the nonelastic stretch-limiting warps just described in prolonging the life of the elastic throughy preventing its being strained to the limit, as
,well as serving the additional ends 0f diluting the concentration of rubber extending weftwise in a given length and of holding the rubber weft down to the weak end of its stretch.
In the specific form of Figs. 1 and 2 the elastic weft is inserted under moderate tension in two successive and adjacent picks, which are worked exactly opposite. Thereafter, four picks of face and back wefts 5. 6. are inserted, and then two more picks of the elastic weft are put in. The arrangement shown at the right hand terminus of the twoway stretch central portion is particularly suited for use in a light and flexible fabric,
the elastic weft 7 vbeing looped around and forming its reverse bend through engagement with the elastic warp 1a which lies iust I outward of the crossing ofthe face andback wefts 5 from one surface to the other of the fabric` as shown in Fig. 1; by such crossing, aswell as `by its 'own tension at all times, this warp 1a is eectually held'from being pulled inward through the contraction of the elastic weft with accompanying distortion of the de.-
sired fiat aspect of the fabric. As shown, the
portion of the continuous elastic weft 7 which extends between one group of two picks and the next similar group is simply ioated over all the wefts until it again reenters the fabric, looping around elastic warp 1"; because the four picks of face and back wefts 5, 6, pack together closely, the float is of incon; spicuous length and aspect, and elastic wa i 1b,being always tense, prevents distortion of the fabric. 1,
Ordinarily, the two-way stretch fabric as shown between the'lines B and C may be woven as a single homogeneous material. But peculiar advantages fiow from the combination of the two-way stretch fabric with flanking sections of one-way stretch-elastic fabric, where the material is to be. used as and changing their position on the wearers body when the latter is flexed. Thus, it is contemplated within the scope of the present invention to combine the two materials, the old. and the new, either through weaving the two materials separately and thereafter com-` bining them by sewing or otherwise uniting the selvages of the two materials together, or preferably as indicated in Fig. 1, through weaving them integrally in one piece and with component elements common to both, as shown and described. Made in either way, the one-way stretch cuff flanking the topand bottom edges of the two-way stretch portion as the fabric is utilized in a girdle possesses a rigidity and freedom from yield or stretch up and .down the ,wearers bod y which definitely grips the underlying sur aces and serves to belt the top and bottom of thegarment to definite points on the wearers body above the hip bones and below the hips, and to fix the position of these portions of the garment, while the intermediate two-way stretch portion spreads and recovers as the underlying portions of the body become convex or concave; and further provides a rigid band at the bottom of the garment for sewing the garters to. The invention fabric enables the maker of such corsets and garters and similar garments easilyl to define the waist line of the wearer and to define it in such a way as not to impede the movementsnor interfere with the comfort of the wearer,
fabrics through the. use of leno or cross- I weaving. In Fig. 3,- the covered rubber warps 9 are combined with the rubber wefts.
11, 13, and the non-elastic or fibrous -wefts 15, 17, without interweaving, a non-elastic leno warp 1 9, 21, being associated with eachY rubber warp 9 and crossing back and forth over its rubber warp at one surface of the fabric to engage beneath a air of elements comprisin .a fibrous weft 1 and an elastic weft -11 lylng at the back of the fabric. In -f and-aai-ce fibrous weft 15 against its proper elastic warp 9. Each twox adjacent lenorp its c `ng, it binds a face elastic 'weft 13 warps are run symmetrically with respect to each other, converging `and diverging-and crossing their respective warps with opposite inclination, as plain in Fig. 3.v In Fig. 4, '125 the construction is identical,- except that the leno warps 23 are all run parallel to each other, the difference resulting in-dg'iving the fabric of Fig. 3a slight reticulate or honeycomb aspect, while that of Fig. 4 has adis-` tinctly ribbed `o r twilled appearance. In
. fortable.
` with a' face having transverse ribs ofwhichl each of these fabrics, the crossing of the rubber .warps by the lenos has been found to impart to the surface shown in the drawings just enough friction to cling to the skin of the wearer without being too rough and uncom- Another feature of the fabrics of Figs. 3 and 4 is that the weft, both elastic and non-elastic, need not be interwoven with the warps, but runs straight and without perceptible undulation in two separate planes above and below the elastic warps. This is of considerable advantage in giving to the fabric a flat and level surface at each face. While the fabric of Figs. 1 and 2 is characterized by longitudinal ribs at both surfaces, the surface of the fabric shown in Fig. 3
, though reticulated is notably more level and totally devoid of longitudinal ribs, while that of Fig. 4 has low transverse ribs which present a flatter and more level-surface than the construction of Fig. 1. The other advantages attained in the fabric of Fig. 1 are secured in even greater measure, for the elastic wefts are inserted in adjacent pairs at opposite faces of the fabric, and through being run without interweaving are easily balanced in tension, one against the other, to make a fabric that will li'e fiat; while the fibrous wefts 15, 17, which thin out the elastic wefts are even more intimately associated each with its adjacent elastic weft by the binding action of the leno, so as even more completely to allow. the insertion of the elastic weft with any desired degree of minimum tension, without allowing the strain of yweftwise expansion of the fabric to run up the tension and resulting contractive force of the elastic wefts, much less allow these elastic wefts to be strained to their limit.
Fig. 5 shows another form of two-way stretch leno fabric related to that shown in Fig. 4, having in addition to the elements and arrangements of Fig. 4 a non-elastic fibrous warp 25 associated with each elastic warp 9, and worked the same way as its proper elastic warp with respect to the elastic wefts.
11, 13, but oppositely to the elastic warps with respect to the non-elastic wefts 15, 17. The fibrous warps 25 are included within the crossings of the parallel lenos associated with each elasticy warp 9. The result is a fabric alternate ones are conspicious and intermediate ones are not noticed, owing to the changing slant of the lenos; while the back is notably smoother than in the other examples owl ing to the presence of the fibrous warp 25.
In Fig. 6, the elastic wefts are paired and opposed at opposite faces of the fabric without interweaving with the warps, as described. .Two fibrous warps 27 29, are a's- Sociated with each elastic warp 9, while two -leno warps cooperate with each group of elastic and non-elastic warps, instead of one, as in the prior examples. The fibrous warps 29 engage under two picks and over every third, whether rubber or fiber, while the intermediate fibrous warps 27 engage under five picks and over the sixth; they are properly back warps and impart softness and smoothness to the back. Four picks of nonelastic weft, 31, 32, 33, 34, are interposed between each successive pair of elastic wefts 35, 36, of which three lie at the back of the elastic warps for every one at the face. The face leno 37 crosses back and forth over its rubber warp 9 between the points where the face picks of elastic weft 35Iand non-elastic weft 34 are laid across, so that these wefts are not stitched into the fabric by this leno, but instead are held to the warps by the back leno 39, which passes over these two wefts from behind, crossing over the back elastic wefts 36 and their associated fibrous wefts 31 where these two intersect the rubber warps 9, and engaging over the same pick of fibrous back weft 32 under which is engaged the face leno37. Each rubber warp has two fibrous warps 27, 29, associated with it, and included within the zigzags of its proper face and back lenos. It is to be noted that the face and back lenos bot-h pass from one face of the fabric to the other at the same time; this makes a crossing of these warps which spreads apart the wefts immediately preceding and following such crossing Since this crossing occurs after every other pick and occasionally both before and after a single pick, the fabric is given an openwork texture V l10:)
pect differing from the diagonal honeycomb appearance of Fig. 3, as the face leno does not clip the corners o f the squares defined by the warps and wefts. The back of the fabric is exceedingly soft and smooth, owing to the long floats of the fibrous warps 29 and the additional fibrous back wefts 32 and 33.
Fig. 7 shows a straight weave in which the elastic warps 9 are likewise not interwoven with the elastic wefts 41, 43, but establish the latter in face and back weft planes. The elastic wefts are each accompanied by adjacent fibrous wefts 45, 47, respectively, worked the same way as their respective elastic wefts, and the wefts are bound to the elastic warps by fibrous warps 49, 51, which are worked in a warp twill weave, passing under aback elastic weft 43 and its associated back fibrous weft 47 and thereafter floating for six picks at the surface. The face and back of the fabric are identical, as the back warps 51 are worked in similar manner.
While I haveV illustrated and described certain forms in which the invention may be embodied, I am aware that many modifications may be made therein by any person skilled in the art, without departing from the scope of the invention as expressed in the claims. Therefore, I do not wish to be limited to the particularforms shown, or to the details of construction thereof, but
What I do claim is l. In a corset, girdle, or the like supporting garment, elastic fabric having in combination parallelly extending elastic elements, and other elastic elements extending intermediate each adjacent pair of the first elements in angular relation to the latter, one of the two sets of elastic elements being capable of exerting a strong contractive effort and the other restricted to a contractive effort l materially below that of the first set as the ments, and a set of elastic rubber weft elements, one of such sets of elastic elements arranged to exert a contractive effort materially below that of the other as regards portions of the fabric of equivalent size,
3. In a corset, girdle, or the like supporting garment, woven elastic fabric having in combination elastic rubber warp elements, elastic rubber weft elements, non-elastic yarns limiting the stretch of the elastic warps at or about the maximum extensibility of the latter, and non-elastic yarns preventing the stretch of the elastic wefts beyond a fraction f of their normal extensibility.
4. In a corset, girdle, or the like support- .ing garment, elastic fabric having component elements of rubber permitting simultaneous stretching of the garment in two dimensions through elongation of the rubber elements, the contractive force of the elastic fabric in the garment being materially greater in ing garment, woven elastic fabric having in stretched as a whole in the direction of its length, and having a portion of its width capable of being simultaneously stretched transversely, and another portion of its Width incapable of transverse stretch.
9. In a corset, girdle, or the like supporting garment, elastic fabric comprising in combination one or more marginal portions capable of being stretched lengthwise only and an intermediate portion capable of being stretched simultaneously both lengthwise and crosswise.
10. A corset, girdle, or the like supporting garment including in its composition an elastic fabric having in combination a set of elastic and non-elastic warps, and a set of elastic and non-elastic wefts, the stretch of the'fabric in the direction of one of these sets of elements being limited to less than the stretch in the direction of the other set.
11. In a corset, girdle, or the like supporting garment, woven elastic fabric having in combination elastic warps distributed across substantially the full width of the fabric, and elastic wefts inserted in groups of one or more pairs of oppositely-work'ed adjacent picks each of which picks in a `pair substantially -balances the tendency of the pther pick to curl the fabric, with the groups separated by one or more picks of non-elastic weft, and with the elastic weft less in extent than the widthof the fabric.
THOMAS F. MOORE.
' combination elastic warp elements, non-elastic weft elements coeXtensive with the width of the fabric, and elastic weft elements interspersed with the non-elastic wefts and termlnating short of the full-width of the fabric.
6. Woven elastic` fabric having in combination elastic warps, elastic and non-elastic wefts crossing the elastic warps without interweaving therewith, and non-elastic warps binding a' pair of adjacent wefts, comprising an elastic weft and a non-elastic weft, to the elastic warps alternately at one face and then at the other of the fabric, the elastic wefts being inserted in adjacent pairs.
7. Woven elastic fabric having in combination elastic warps, V'face and back elastic wefts, face and back non-,elastic wefts, and leno warps engaging first a face elastic weft,
' and' a face non-elastic weft, and then a back CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION.
Patent N0. 1,896,783. February 7, 193s.
THOMAS E. MOORE.
lt slherebyeertiiied that error appears in the printed specification Of the above numbered patent requiring correction as follows: ln the drawings, sheet 7 at the right hand side.` strike Out "Fig. 8," showing a fabric weave; and that the said LettersfPatent should be read with this correction therein that the same may conorm'to the record Of the case in the Patent Office.
Signed and sealed this 28th day Of February, A. D. 1933.
. M. i. Moore, (Seal) Actlng Commissioner of Patents.
DESCLA'BM 1,896,783f-Thomas F. Moore, Westerly, R. l. ELAs'rro FABRIC. ,Patent dated l February?, 1933. Disclaimer led August 4, 1933, by the assignee, George C.
Moore Company, the patentee, said Moore, approving and-ratifying.
Hereby enters this disclaimer to that part of the claim in said specification which is in the following Words, to Wit:
4. in a corset, die, or the like supporting garment, elastic fabric'havng component elements ,o rubber permit-ting simultaneous stretching of the garment in two dimensions through elongation of the rubber elements, the contrastive force of the elastic fabric in the garment being materially greater in one of such dimensions than in the other, under like conditions.
[Q 'icz'al Gozette August 29, 1.933.]
Priority Applications (1)
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US619076A US1896783A (en) | 1932-06-24 | 1932-06-24 | Elastic fabric |
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US619076A US1896783A (en) | 1932-06-24 | 1932-06-24 | Elastic fabric |
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US1896783A true US1896783A (en) | 1933-02-07 |
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US619076A Expired - Lifetime US1896783A (en) | 1932-06-24 | 1932-06-24 | Elastic fabric |
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Cited By (1)
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US11180874B2 (en) * | 2018-04-20 | 2021-11-23 | Mast Industries (Far East) Limited | Garment with higher coefficient of friction when stretched |
-
1932
- 1932-06-24 US US619076A patent/US1896783A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
Cited By (1)
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US11180874B2 (en) * | 2018-04-20 | 2021-11-23 | Mast Industries (Far East) Limited | Garment with higher coefficient of friction when stretched |
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