US1866645A - Sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

July 12, i932.A

l E# WQ: i 5 l' l l N i I I l| H. F. GRUMAN SEWING MACHINE Filed Dec. 9. 1927 3 Sheets-Sheet l V VV @Yi N 6G42 @tbm July 12, 1932. A H. F. GRUMAN 1,866,645

SEWING MACHINE F1166 Dc. 9, 1927 3 sheets-sheet 2r F7 J0 I: :T: W' '3 Q s 246; G jf a ZZ 2 l? 9 :2:: .mi E

o e S 4236 4/1' k 45 '4/ Patented July?s 12,1932

Anonacii. r. annuale, or s'nnoUIs. mssouEnAssIGNon To nEwIs rNvIsIEEE STITCH xacHINE conraNY, or xrrrEaY, MAINE, a coaroaarroN or MAINE SEWINGl mcHINE application mea December e, 1927. semi No. 238,793.

This invention relates to new and useful improvements in sewing machines generally, although more particularly to sewing ma'- -chines for joining two body fabrics by a French seam. I

j j Heretofore, in joining two body fabrics by 'a French seam, two separate operations on -a sin le needle machine have been required. wo fabrics were first superposed one on the other with their edges in registry' and these fabrics were then seamed along a line parallel with the superposed edges by a single needle machine. One of the fabrics was thenturned around the previously formed seam and positionedv under and against the other fabric in flat relation, to thereby enclose the first formed seam, the marginal portions of the fabrics being positioned between the flat body fabrics. The fabrics were then seamed by a second line of stitches which were located in parallelism with the rst line of stitches and which pref-y erably did-not penetrate the m`ar 'nal portions of the fabrics. It quite requently happened that the edges of the. marginal portions projected beyond the second line of stitches and this condition rendered the same bulky and also unsightly.

Among the several objects of my invention are to provide a sewing machine by means of which two body fabrics may be joined by a French seam during a single operation of the machine; to provide means for trimming the marginal portions `of the fabrics prior to the formation of the second line of stitches whereby the marginal portions in` the completed seam will be completely hidden from view and the same will be less bulky than heretofore, and to provide such a machine which is simple in construction and in operation and which will greatly reduce the cost of operation.

With these and other objects in view which invention will be more clearly understood by following the description, the appended claims, and the several views illustrated in the accompanying drawings.v

. In the drawings ,ming the downturned marginal will more fully appear, the nature of thev chine, partly in sectionfembodying my invention,A Y

Figure 2- is a front elevation ofthe left hand endof the machine,

Figure 3 is a plan view of the front stitch forming mechanism and cooperating work presenting mechanism, and `the trimming` mechanism,

Figure 4 is a plan view of, the rear stitch formin mechanism and cooperating work presenting mechanism, l.

Figure 5 is a rear view of the guide plate and associated parts,

Figure'6 is a cross 'section taken on the line 6-6 of Figure 5,

Figure 7 is a pers ective view of the front stitch forming mechanism, the front work -presenting mechanism, the trimming mechamsm, and the rear st tch forming mechanism and the rear work p esentlng mechanism,

Figure 8 is a perspective view Figure 10 is a sectional view showing more showing the fabrics and mechanisms in cooperative rela.-. tion for joining the fabrics or less diagrammatically the step of formingvthe' first seam, A

igure 11 is a sectional view showin more or less diagrammatically the step o trimthe fabrics, v.

Figure 12 is a sectional view showing more or less diagrammatically the step of formin the ridge of the seamed and trimmed fa rics preparatory to forming the second seam, v

Figure 13 is a sectional view showing more or less diagrammaticaly the step of forming the second seam, an

portions of Figure 14 is a perspective view of a modified form of my invention.

Like reference numerals designate corresponding vparts throughout the several figures of the drawings. f

My sewing machine is of the fiat bedtype.

and includes a base 5 from which irojlicts the usual standard (not shown), an w ch Figurepl is an end view of a flat be'l mastandard supports an overhanging arm 6 ico l `bar 11 which is reciproeable in gudes 12, 12'

having a stitching head 7 supported at its free end. Mounted on the base and extending under the stitching head 7 is a horizontal work support'8.

Disposed below the work support and operating entirely below the same, is the first seam forming mechanism and trimming mechanism, and disposed above the work support in rear of the first seam. forming mechanism, is the second or final seam forming mechanism.

The first seam forming mcham'am This first. seam forming mechanism includes a stitch formlng mechamsm and a cooperating work presentlng mechanism.

The stitch forming mechanism includes a v straight needle 9 which is reciprocatory in a horizontal plane across the line of feed, and a cooperating 4-motion threadedl looper 10 for forming av line of Grover and Baker stitches. The needle 9 is attached to a needle mounted on the base 5 and is actuated from the main shaft 13 which is journaled in the overhanging arm 6 by suitable means, not shown. The looper has its loop taking movement in a direction towards the operator or in a direction opposite the direction of feed,

. and passes above the needle during said movevertically within the carrier to impart the,

needle-avoiding movements to the looper. The carrier v15 is oscillated from a rotary shaft 16 journaled in bearings on the base 5 by connections indicated generally at 17, and the looper holder 14 is reciprocated in the carrier from the shaft 16 by connections indicated generally at'18. This looper mechanism per se is shown and described in my Patent 1,750,041, Mar. 11, 1930, and further detail description thereof is believed to be unnecessary.

The work presenting mechanism includes a vertical needle plate-or guide 19, a vertical 4-motion feed dog 20 which operates through an opening in the plate 19, and a vertical presser foot 21 which cooperates with the plate 19 and dog 20. The needle 9 reciprocates through alined openings form-ed in the needle plate 19 and presser foot 2l. The feeddog is given backward and forward movements in a plane parallel to the line of feed and lateral movements in a plane at right angles to the line of feed. The feed dog 20 is escasas connected to an oscillatory feed bar 22 by screws 23, 23 which pass through slots in the dog andengage the feed bar, and thereby ermit lateral adjustment of the feed dog. he feed bar 22 is pivoted as at 23a to a plate 24 which is slidable backwardly and forwardly between guides 24, 24El mounted on the upper end of a post 25 fixed to the base 5'. Car-- ried by the feed bar 22 is a roller 26 which cooperates with a cam groove 27 of a cam 28 to oscillate the feed bar laterally. The slidable plate 24 is reciprocated from the shaft 16 through the medium of a. link 28a which is pivotally connected at one end as at 29 to the which is fixed 'to a sleeve 34 slidable along a horizontal rod 35 mounted in the guides 12, 12. A collar 36 is fixed to the rod 35 beyond the sleeve 34 and a coil spring 37 which is disposed around the sleeve between the arm 33 and the collar 36, functions to yieldingly urge the foot 21 towards the needle plate 19 and feed dog 20. In order to retain the arm 24 against swinging about the rod 35, a guide rod 37 has one end fixed to the arm and the other end slidable in an opening formed in a lug 38 fixed to the collar 36.

From the foregoing, it will be apparent that in forming the first seam, two body fabrics A and B are positioned on the work support 8 with their marginal edge portions a and?) turned downwardly into side by side relation as shown in Figures 8 and 10. These margi-v nal portions are disposed between the vertical guide plate 19 and the vertical feed dog 20, and the vertical presser foot21. The feed dog 2O cooperates with the presser foot 21 to feed the marginal portions a and b of the fabrics past the needle 9 so as to join said portions by a line of stitches c. It will be observed that the entire stitch forming mechanism and the entire work presenting mechanism are disposed below the generalplane of the body fabrics.

The trim/ming mechanism to a horizontal arm 40 fixed to the upper end of a vertically disposed rock shaft 41 which is journaled in a bracket 42 fixed to the base 5. The rock shaft 41 is oscillated from the shaft 16 by a connection rod 41n and other connections which are not shown.

The secmzd seam fownz'ng mechanism The second seam forming mechanism is disposed in rear of the first seam formingy mechanism and includes an upper stitch forming mechanism which is entirely disosed above'the general plane of the body abrics, and a cooperating upper work presenting mechanism.

Disposed in rear ofthe rst seam forming mechanism as well asin rear'of the trimming 'mechanisnn is a device for projecting npwardlya ridge d of the seamed fabricsinto position for seaming by the upper stitch forming mechanism. For this purpose, a

stationary ridge forming finger 44is suitably supported on the base 5, and has its upper end rounded and projecting above the plane of the work support 8 into a ridge-receiving groove 45 formed in the underside of a horizontal plate 46 rigidly secured to the stitching head 7, the groove extending in the line of feed and beine' disposed in alinement with the marginal e ge portions a and b. The walls of the groove cooperate with the finger 44 to form the ridge d in the fabrics during the feeding thereof from the lower or front stitch forming` mechanism to the upper 'or rear stitch forming mechanism. The late 46 1s disposed in rear of the front seam orming mechanism and is provided at its front end with an upturned toe 47. Thus it will be seen that the ridge d extends along the line ofthe initial seam and includes the latter,

' the upwardly extending inside marginal portions e and f ofthe body7 fabrics being disposed in side-by-side relation and entirely covering or embracing the line of stitches c and the trimmed marginal portions a and b.

The groove 445 is formed in a boss or rib 48 which extends upwardly from-the plate 46, and includes spaced vertical walls 49, 50 and a top wall 51. The wall 50 and top 51 of the boss 48 are cut awa intermediate the front and rear ends an the remaining or exposed portion of t e wall 49 constitutes a vertical needle or guide plate 49. A curved needle 52 is fixed to a needle arm 53 which is fulcrumed on the stitchino' head 7 at a point directly above theridge d wlliereby the needle reciprocates in a plane'transverse to the line of feed and operates entirely above the general plane .of the fabrics. Thel needle 52 passes through the ridge d below the trimmed edges of the marginal portions a and b, and cooperating with the needle to form a line of lock stitches g is a rotary hook 54. The

@5 needle 52 is actuated from the main shaft \the main shaft by 13 by connections indicated generally by the numeral 55 and the hook 54 is actuated fromconnections indicated generally by the numeral 56.

The upper work presenting mechanism includes a vertical 4-motion feed dog 57- which operates through an opening formed 4in theneedle plate 19, and a verticalpresser Afoot 58 which cooperates with said needle plate and feed dog to feed the rid e d pastthe needle 52. The feed dog 57 is xed to a feed bar 59 which is fulcrumed on the horizontal plate 46 by a. pin\and slot connection 60 i whereby the. feed dog may be given its back and forth moven'lents, and its lateral movements. These motions are imparted to the feed dog by an eccentric 61 fixed to the lower end of a vertical shaft 62 and cooperating v' with a correspondingly sized opening formed in the rear 'end of the feed bar. The yshaft '62 is rotated from the main shaft 13 by connec.

tions-'indicated as a whole b the numeral 63.-

The' presser foot `58 is Xed to a bar 64 which is'pivoted as at 65 to the horizontal plate 46, and a spring 66 functions to' yieldingly urge the. foot against the needle plate 49 and feed dog 57. Y

From the` foregoing, it will be observed that the ridge d is formed in the body fabrics innnediately after the first line of stitches 0 has been formed; that the ridge includes the previously formed trimmed seam, and that the second or upper line of stitches unites the inner marginal portions c and f of the fabrics along a line below said trimmed edges .Whereby the completely formed French seam will be flat and the marginal portions a and b will not be exposed to view.

vIn the modification shown in Figure 14, the. front needle plate 19, in rear of the presser foot21, is provided with a rearwardly extending U-shaped guide 19b for vreceiving the marginal portions a and b. The guide 19" mechanism operating entirely above the general plane of said fabrics, and work presenting mechanisms for successively presenting vertical edge portions of fabrics to said stitch forming mechanisms.`

2. In a sewing machine for forming French seams, the combination with complete front and `rear stitch, forming-mechanisms,

each mechanism including a reciprocatory -needleand a cooperating loop taker, one of said complete mechanisms operating entirely below the general plane of the fabrics to be seamed and thel other complete mechanism operating entirely above the general plane of said fabrics, and work presenting mechanisms for successively presenting vertical edge portions of fabrics to said stitch forming mechanismsieach work presenting mechanism'includinga vertical feed dog and a cooperating vertical foot.-

3. In a sewing machine tfor forming Frenchseams,the combination with front and and cooperating with the-foot.

4. In a sewing machine for forming French seams, the combination with complete front and rear stitch forming mechanisms, each mechanism including a reciprocatory needle and a cooperating loop taker, one of said complete mechanisms operating entirely below thev general plane of the fabrics to be seamed and the other complete mechanism operating entirely above the general plane of said fabrics, work presenting mechanisms for, successively presenting ver- .tical edge portions of fabrics to `said stitch .forming mechanisms, and means located in front of the rear stitch forming mechanism for trimming the edge portions of the fabrics.

5. In a sewing machine for forming French seams, the combination with front and rear'stitch forming mechanisms, the former operating entirely below the general plane of the fabrics to be seamed and the latter operating entirely above the general plane of said fabrics, and front and rear work presenting mechanisms for successively presentingl downwardly extending marginal fabric portions to the front stitch forming mechanism and upwardly extending seamed marginal fabric portions to the rear stitch forming mechanism.

6. In a sewing machine for forming French seams,the combination with front and rear stitch forming mechanisms. the former operating entirely below the general plane of the fabrics to be seamed and the latter operating entirely above the general plane of said fabrics. and front and rear work presenting mechanisms for successively presenting downwardly extending marginal fabric portions to the front stitch forming mechanism and upwardly extending seamed marginal lfabric portions to the rear stitch forming mechanism, each' work pre- French seams, the combination with front. 'and rear stitch forming mechanlsms, the former operating entirely below the general plane of the fabrics to be seamed and the latter operating entirely above the general plane of said fabrics, front and rear work presenting mechanisms for successively presenting downwardly extending marginal fabric portions tothe frontl stitch forming mechanism and upwardly extending seamed marginal fabric portions to the rear stitch forming mechanism, and means located in front of the rear stitch forming mechanism for trimming the edge portions of the fabrics.

8. In a sewing machine for forming French seams, the combination with front and rear stitch forming mechanisms, one of said mechanisms operating entirely below the general plane of the fabrics to be seamed and the other operating entirely above the general plane of said fabrics, a mechanism for presenting vertical edge portions of fabrics to the front stitch forming mechanism, and a. mechanism for presenting the seamed edge portions of the fabrics to the rear stitch forming mechanism including means for projecting a ridge of the fabrics including the formed seam into position for seaming by the rear stitch forming mechanism.

9. In a sewing machine for forming French scams, the combination with front and rear stitch forming mechanisms, one of said mechanisms operating entirely below the general plane of the fabrics to b e seamed and the other operating entirely above the general plane of said fabrics, a mechanism for presenting vertical edge portions of fabrics to the front stitch forming mechanism, and a mechanism for presenting the seamed edge portions of the fabrics to the rear stitch forming mechanism including a stationary linger for projecting a ridge of the fabrics including the formed seam into position for seaming by the rear stitch forming mechanism.

10. In a sewing machine for forming French seams, the combination with front and rear stitch forming mechanisms, one of said mechanisms operating entirely below the general plane ofthe fabrics to be sealned and the other operating entirely above thev general plane of said fabrics, a mechanism for presenting vertical edge portions of fabrics to the front stitch forming mechanism, means for rtrimming the vertical edge portions of the fabrics, and a mechanism for presenting the seamed edge portions of the fabrics to the rear stitch forming mechanism including means for projectinga ridge of the fabrics including the formed seam into position for seeming by the rear stitch forming mechanism.

11. In a 'sewing machine forv forming French seams, the 'combination with front and rear stitch forming mechanisms, one of said mechanisms operating entirely below the general plane of the fabrics to be seamed and the other operating entirely above the neral plane of said fabrics, a mechanism or presenting vertical edge portions of fabrics to the front stitch forming mechanism, and a mechanism for presenting the seamed edge portions of the fabrics to the rear stitch forming mechanism vincluding means for projecting a ridge of-the fabrics including the formed seaminto position for seaming by the rear stitch forming mechanism, said work presenting mechanisms each including a vertical presser foot and a cooperating vertical feed dog. l

12. In a sewing machine for forming French seams,`the combination with front y and rear stitch forming mechanisms, one of said mechanisms operating entirely below the general plane `of the fabrics to be seamed and the other operating entirely above the general plane of said fabrics, means for directing vertical edgeportions of fabrics into position for seaming by the front stitch forming mechanism, and means for projecting a ridge of the fabrics including the formed seam into position forseaming by the rear stitch forming mechanism.

13. In a sewing machine for forming French seams, the combination with front and rear stitch forming mechanisms, one of said mechanisms operating entirely below the general plane of the fabrics to be seamed and the other operating entirely above the general plane of said fabrics, means for directing vertical edge portions of fabrics into position for seaming by the front stitch forming mechanism, a vertical presser footl located atorie side of the vertical edge portions of the fabrics, a vertical feed dog located at the other side ofsaid vertical edge portions and cooperating with the foot to feed the fabrics past the front stitch forming mechanism, and means for projecting a ridge of the fabrics including the formed seam into position for seaming by the rear stitch forming mechanism.

14. In a sewing machine for forming French seams, the combinationl with front and rear stitch forming mechanisms, one of said mechanisms operating entirely below the general plane of the fabrics to be seamed and the other operating entirely above the general plane of said fabrics, means for directing vertical edge portions of fabrics into position for seaming by the front stitch forming mechanism, a trimming mechanism operating in front of the rear stitch forming mechanism for trimming the edge portions of the seamed fabrics, and means located in rear of the trimand a' cooperating work tion forseaming by the rearstitch-forming -min mechaiii'sm for projecting a of the fabrics including the trimmed seam into pos1`- mechanism with the trimmed edge portions of the first seam within theridge but outl of stitching relation with respect to the secondr stitch `formingl mechanism.

15. In a Isewing machine'y for forming French seams, the combination with a complete lower stitch forming mechanisml including a needle and a cooperating loop taker resenting mechanism operatin entirely elow the general plane of the fa rics being ,seamed, a complete upper stitchforming mechanism, includlng a needle and a cooperating loop taker operating entirely above the general plane of the fabrics being seamed, one of said stitch forming mechanisms being located in front of the other, and a work presenting mechanism cooperating with vthe upper stitch forming mechanism.

16. ln a sewing machine for forming A French seams, the combination with a comlete lower stitch forming mechanism includmg a needle anda coperating loop taker and a cooperating work presenting mechanism operating entirely below the general plane of the fabrics being seamed, a complete upper stitch forming mechanism includinga needle and a cooperating loop taker o erating entirely above the general plane of)` the fabrics being seamed, one of said stitch forming mechanisms being located in front of the other, a work presentin mechanism cooperating with the upper stltch forming mechanism, and a trimming mechanism operating entirely below the general plane of the body fabrics and in front of the rear stitch forming mechanism. 17. In a sewing machine for forming French seams, the combination with a complete lower stitch forming mechanism and a cooperating work presenting mechanism operating entirely below the general plane of the fabrics being seamed, a complete upper stitch forming mechanism operating entirely above the general plane of the fabrics being seamed,' and a work presenting mechanism coperating withV vthe upper stitch forming mechanism, the upper stitch forming mechanism and the upper work presenting mechanism being disposed in rear of the lower stitch anism, the upper stitch forming mechanism and work presenting mechanism being disposed in rear of 'the lower stitch forming anism and upwardly extending seamed marinal fabric portions to the rear stitch form'- mg mechanism, saidstitch forming mechanisms respectively including reciprocatory needles having penetrating movements in the same direction, andmeans for reciprocating said needles in unison.

20. In a sewing machine ,for forming French seams, the combination with front and rear stitch forming mechanisms, the former operatin entirely below the general plane of the fa rics to be seamed and the latter operating entirel above the general plane of said fabrics, ront and rear work presenting mechanisms for successively presenting ownwardly extending marginal fabric portions to the front stitch forming mechanism and upwardly extending seamed marginal fabric ortions to the rear stitch forming mechanism, said stitch forming mechanlsms respectively including reciprocatory needles having penetrating movements in the same direction, and means for reciprocating said needles in unison, each work presentin mechanism including a 4-motion vertical eed dog and a cooperating vertical resser foot, and means for operating said eed dogs in unison.y

21. In a sewing machine, the combination with a frame including a work support and a stitching head located above the support, of a complete stitch forming mechanism including a needle and a cooperating loop taker .mounted on the head, and a mechanism mounted on the head for presenting work to the stitch forming mechanism including a vertical presser foot and a cooperating vertical feed dog.v y

22. Ina sewing machine, the combination with a frame including a work support and a ystitching head located above the support, of a complete stitch forming mechanism mounted on the head, .and a mechanism mounted on the head for presenting work to the stitch forming mechanism including` a vertical work guide, a Avertical presser foot cooperating therewith, and a vertical feed dog cooperating with the foot and through the work guide.

23. In a sewing 'machine for forming French seams, the combination with front and rear stitch forming mechanisms, lthe former operating entirely below the general lane of the fabrics to be seamed and the atter operating entirel plane of said fabrics, fli'ont and rear work Apresenting mechanisms for successively presentin g downwardl extending marginal fabric portions to the ront stitch forming mechanism and upwardly extending seamed margmal fabric portions to the rear stitch formmg mechanism, the front work presenting mechanism including a vertical needle plate and a cooperating vertical presser foot, and a trimming mechanism including va horizontally reciprocatory blade located below the needle plate and presser foot and movable across the meeting faces thereof.

24. In a sewing machine for forming French seams, the combination with front and rear stitch forming 'mechanisms the former operatinor entirely; below the general lane of the fabrics to be seamed and the atter operating entirel above the general plane of said fabrics, ront and rear work presenting mechanisms for successively presentmg downwardl extending marginal fabric' portions tothe ront stitch forming mechanism and upwardly extending seamed marginal fabric portions to the rear stitch forming mechanism, therv front work presenting mechanism including a vertical needle plate and a cooperating vertical presser foot, and a trimming mechanism including a horizontally reciprocatory blade located below the needle plate and presser foot and movable across the meeting faces thereof and cooperating with a lower edge of the vertical needle plate. v

25. In a sewing machine for forming French seams, the combination with front and rear stitch forming mechanisms, the formeroperatino entirely below the general plane of the fabrics to be seamed and the latter operating entirely above the general plane of said fabrics, front and rear work presenting mechanisms for successively presenting downwardly extending marginal fahric portions to thc front stitch forming mechanism and upwardly extending seamed marginal fabric portions to the rear stitch forming mechanism. the front work presenting mechanism including a `vertical needle plate and a cooperating vertical presser foot, and a. trimming mechanism including a vertically disposed rock shaft, a horizontally reciprocatory blade xed to said shaft and located below the needle plate and presser foot and movable across the meeting faces thereof,

2G. In a sewing machine for forming French seams, the combination with front and rear stitch forming mechanisms, the

movable above the general latter operating entirel former opera-tin entirel below the general plane of the fa ries to e seemed and the above the general plane of said fabrics, an front and rear work 'presenting mechanisms for successively presenting downwardl 'extending marginal fabric portions to tie front stitch formin mechanism and ,upwardly extending seame marginal fabric portions to the rear stitch forming mechanism, the front work presenting mechanism including a vertical needle plate. a vertical presser foot cooperating with the plate, a vertical alt-motion feed dog operating through the plate and cooperating with the foot, and means for automatically moving the foot away from the plate duringfeeding movements of the feed dog. y

27. In a sewing machine for forming French seams, the combination with front and rear stitch, forming mechanisms, the

' former operating entirely below the general plane of the fabrics to be seamed and the latter operating entirely above the general plane of said fabrics, and front and rear work presenting mechanisms for successively presenting downwardly extending marginal fabric portions to the front stitch forming mechanism and upwardly extending seamed marginal fabric portions to the rear stitch forming mechanism, the front work presenting mechanism including a vertical needle plate, a vertical presser foot cooperating with the plate, a vertical /f-motion feed dog operating through the plate and cooperating with the foot, a spring for normally retaining the foot in engagement with the plate, and means for automatically moving the foot awayfrom the plate and against the tension of the spring during feeding movements of the feed dog.

28. In a sewing machine for forming French seams, the combination with front and rearstitch forming mechanisms, the

former operating entirely below the general plane of the fabrics to be seamed and the latter operating entirely above the general plane of said fabrics, and front and rear work presenting mechanisms for successively presenting downwardly extending marginal fab- 4ric portions to the front stitch ,forming mechanism and upwardly extending scamed marginal fabric portions to the rear stitch forming mechanism, the front work presenting mechanism including a vertical needle plate, a horizontally disposed presser bar, a vertical presser foot slidably mouiited on said bar, and a coil spring around the bar for yieldably retaining the foot against the plate.

29. In a sewingmachine for forming French seams, the combination with front and rear stitch forming mechanisms, the former operating entirely below the general plane of the fabrics to be seamed and the latter operating entirely above the general plane of said fabries, and frontl and rear work presenting mechanisms for successively presenting downwardly extending marginal' fabric portions to, the frontV stitch forming mechanism and ipwardly extending seamed marginal fabric ortions to the rear stitch forming mechanism, the front workpresenting mechanism including a vertical needle plate,

.-a horizontally disposed presser bar, a vertical presser foot slidably mounted on said bai', a sleeve slidable on the bar,- acollar fixed to the bar, a vertical presser foot fixed 4to the sleeve, and a coil spring interposed between the foot and-the collar for yieldably retainingv l the foot against the plate. v

30. -In a sewing machine y for forming French seams, the combination with front and rear stitch forming mechanisms,` the formeroperating entirely below the general plane of the. fabrics to' be seamed and the latter operating entirely above the general plane of said fabrics, and front and rear work presenting mechanisms for successively presenting downwardly extending marginal fabric portions to the front stitch formin mechanism and upwardly extending seame marginal fabric portions to the rear stitch forming mechanism, the front work presenting mechanism including a vertical needle plate, a horizontally disposed presser bar', a vertical presser foot slidably mounted on said bar, a sleeve slidable on the bar, a collar xed to the bar, a vertical presser foot fixed to `the sleeve, a coil spring interposed vbetween the foot and the collar for yieldably retaining the foot against the plate, and a guide bar disposed in parallelism with the presser bar o and having rigid lconnection'with the foot vertical vfeed dog disposed in rear of and in v alinement with the front feed dog and located above the general plane of the fabrics, and meansfor projecting upwardly a ridge of the fabrics including the formed seam into position for seaming by the rearstitch forming mechanism. l

32. In a sewing machine for forming Frenchl seams, the combination with a. front stitch forming mechanism operating entirely below the general plane of the fabrics to be seami i, a work presenting mechanism in lll lll

cluding a vertical feed dog forpresenting downturned edge portions of the fabrics-to means for projecting upwardly a ridge of the fabrics including the formed seam into` position for seaming by the rear stitch formingmechanism, said stitch forming mecha- Lisms including reciprocatory needles having their' paths of movements in planes transverse to the line of feed of the fabrics. l y

`33. In a sewing machine for forming vFrench seams, the combination with a front stitch forming mechanism operatingentirely below the general plane of the fabrics tobe seamed, a work presenting mechanism including a vertical feed dog for presenting downturned edge portions of the fabrics to said front stitch forming mechanism, a rear stitch forming mechanism operating entirely above the general plane of the' fabrics, and a work presenting mechanis'mffor -feeding the seamed edge portions of the fabrics to said rear stitch formingmechanism including `a vertical feed dog disposed in rear of and in alinement with the front feed dog and located above the general plane of the fabrics, and means for projectingupwardly a ridge of the fabrics including the formed seam into position for seaming by the rear stitch forming mechanism, said stitch forming mecha- 'nisms including reciprocatory needles having their paths of movements in planes transverse to the line of feed of the fabrics, the front needle having a straight line movement and the rear needle being mounted for oscillations about an axis located directly above but in rear of the ridge forming means.

34. In a sewing machine for forming French seams, the combination with a front stitch forming' mechanism operating entirely below the general plane4 of the fabricsto be seained, a work presenting mechanism .1ncluding a vertical feed dog for presenting downturned edge portions of the fabrics to said front stitch forming mechanism, a rear stitch formingmechanism operating entirely above the general plane of the fabrics, and a 'work presenting mechanism for feeding the seamed edge portions of the fabrics to said rear stitch forming mechanism 1nclud1ng a vertical feed dog disposed in rear of and in alinement with the front feed dog and lcated above the general plane of the'fabrics, and means for projecting upwardly a ridge' of the fabrics including the formed seam into position for seaming by the rear stitch forming mechanism, said stitch forming mechanisms including reciprocatory ne'ledles having their paths of/movements in planes turned edge portions of the fabrics to said front stitch forming mechanism, a rear stitch forming mechanism operating entirelyiabove the general plane of the fabrics, and a work presenting mechanism for feeding the seamed edge portions of the fabrics to said rear stitch forming mechanism lincluding a vertical feed dog disposed in rear of and in alinement with the front feed dog and located above the general plane of the fabrics, and means for projecting upwai'dl a ridge'of the fabrics including the forward seam into .position for seaming by the-iear stitch forming mechanism.

t 36. In a sewing machine for formin French seams, the combination with a'front stitch forming mechanism operating entirely below the general plane of the fabrics t0.be seamed, a work presenting mechanism including a vertical feed dog for presenting downtuined edge portions", of the fabrics to said front stitch forming mechanisin, a rear stitch l forming mechanism operating entirely above the general plane of the fabrics, and a work presenting mechanism for feeding the seamed edge portions of the fabrics to said rear stitch forming mechanism including a vertical feed dog disposed in rear of and in alinement with the front feed dog and located above the general plane of the fabrics, and a stationary linger located between the front and rear feed dogs and projecting upwardly from a point below the general plane of the fabrics to a point above a horizontal plane containing the point of penetration of the rear needle for projecting a ridge of the-fabrics including the formed seam into position for seamying by the rear stitch forming mechanism.

37. In a sewing machine foi" forming French seams, the combination with a front stitch forming mechanism operating entirely below the general plane of the fabrics to be scamed, a work presenting mechanism including a vertical feed dog for presenting downturned edge portions of the fabrics' to said front stitch forming mechanism, a rearl yals - rear cated above the' general plane of the fabrics, a stationary finger. located between the front and'rear feed dogs and projecting upwardly from a point below the general plane of the fabrics to a point above a horizontal plane containing the point of penetration of the rear needle for projecting a ridge of the fabrics including the forme seam into position for seamin by the rear stitch forming mechanism, an means on ofposite sides of. the finger for holding the abrics against u ward movement during the formation of tige ridge by the finger.

38. In a sewing machine 'for forming French seams, the combination with a front stitch forming mechanism operating entirely below the general plane of the fabrics to be seamed, a work presenting mechanism including a vertical feed dog for presenting downturned edge portions of the fabrics to said front stitch forming mechanism, a rear stitch forming mechanism operating entirely above the general plane of the fabrics, and a work presenting mechanism for feeding the seamed edge portions of the fabrics tosaid rear stitch formin mechanism including a vertical feed doo isposed in rear of and in alinement with t e front feed dog and located above the general plane of the fabrics, a stationar finger located between the front and eed dogs and projecting upwardly from a point below the general plane of the fabrics to a point above a horizontal plane containin the point of penetration of the rear nee e for projecting a ridge of the fabrics including the formed seam into posi- -tion for seamin by the rear stitch forming mechanism, an a stationary plate having a channel in its under side for receiving the upper end of the ridge forming finger and cooperating with Vsaid finger to hold the fabrics against upward movement during formation of the ridge by the finger.

39. In a sewing machine, the combination with a vertical j ide plate, of a laterally movable resser oot cooperating therewith,

a spring or normally holding the foot yield- P ingly in engagement with the plate, a vertically dis osed rock shaft, a horizontal trimmer bla e fixed to the shaft for cooperation with the lower edge of the guide plate, means for rocking said shaft to oscillate the trimmer blade, and means actuated by the shaft for moving the foot away from the guide plate simultaneously with the retractile movement of the trimmer blade.

40. In a sewing machine, the combination of a vertical needle plate and a cooperating presser foot, and a trimming mechanism including a horizontally reciprocatory blade located below the needle plate and presser foot and movable across the meeting faces A thereof.

41. In a sewin machine, the combination of a vertical nee e plate and a cooperating presser foot, and a trimmingmechanism includin a horizontally'reciprocatory blade locate below the needle plate and presser foot and movable across the meeting faces thereof, and cooperatin with a lower edge of the vertical needle p ate.

42. In a sewin mach'ne, the combinaon of a vertical nee le plate and a cooperating presser foot, a trimming mechanism including a vertically disposed rock shaft, a horizontally reciprocatory blade lfixed to said shaft and located below the needle plate and resser foot and movable across the meeting aces thereof, and means for oscillating said shaft.

43. In a sewing machine, the combination with a vertical needle piste, a vertical presser foot cooperating with said plate', a vertical 4-motion feed dog operating through the plate and cooperating with the foot, and

with a vertical needle plate, a' vertical pressen 9G' foot cooperating with said plate, a vertical 4-motion feed do operating through the plate and cooperating with the foot, a spring or normally retainlng the foot in engagement with the plate, and means for automatically moving the foot away from the plate and against the tension of the esiring during feedin movements of the fe dog.

45. n a sewing machine, the combination with a vertical needle plate, of a horizontally disposed presser bar, a sleeve slidable on the bar, a collar fixed to the bar, a vertical presser foot fixed to the sleeve, and a coil spring interposed between the foot and the collar for yieldably retaining the foot against'the with a vertical needle plate, of a horizontallyr v voy disposed presser bar, a sleeve slidable on the bar, a collar fixed to the bar, a vertical presser foot fixed to the sleeve, a coil spring interyieldably retaining the foot against the plate, and a guide bar disposed in parallelism with the presser bar and having ri id connection with the foot and having slida le connection with the collar. y

In testimony whereof I aiix my signature this 12th day of October, 1927 4 y HORACE F. GRUMAN.

osed between the foot and the collar forl

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