US1768105A - Sewing machine - Google Patents

Sewing machine Download PDF

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Publication number
US1768105A
US1768105A US342922A US34292229A US1768105A US 1768105 A US1768105 A US 1768105A US 342922 A US342922 A US 342922A US 34292229 A US34292229 A US 34292229A US 1768105 A US1768105 A US 1768105A
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Prior art keywords
needle
fabric
thread
sections
section
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US342922A
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Berger Joseph
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Union Special Machine Co
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Union Special Machine Co
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B1/00General types of sewing apparatus or machines without mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both
    • D05B1/08General types of sewing apparatus or machines without mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making multi-thread seams
    • D05B1/18Seams for protecting or securing edges
    • D05B1/20Overedge seams
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B29/00Pressers; Presser feet
    • D05B29/06Presser feet
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B73/00Casings
    • D05B73/04Lower casings
    • D05B73/12Slides; Needle plates
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05DINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2305/00Operations on the work before or after sewing
    • D05D2305/02Folding
    • D05D2305/04Folding longitudinally to the sewing direction

Definitions

  • the invention relates to new and useful improvements in sewing machines and more particularly to a sewing machine provided with independent stitching devices.
  • An object of the invention is to provide a sewing machine of the above type having independent overedge stitch forming devices operating in succession to stitch the edge portions of fabric sections.
  • a further object of the invention is to provide a sewing machine having stitching devices with the needles thereof arranged to operate in parallel lines and in succession to stitch the edge portions of fabric sections with means for directing the fabric sections so that the first stitching device operates to join the edge portions of the fabric sections and the second stitching devices operate to secure said edge portions to one face of the fabric sections.
  • a further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above type wherein a fold in one of the fabric sections is formed and is presented to the needle of the second stitching mechanism only so that said needle passes into and out of said fabric section on the same face thereof.
  • a further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above type with a folder operating to fold one of said fabric sections and direct the fold. therein at one side of the first needle and into the path of the second needle and wherein means is provided for firmly holding the edge portions joined by the first needle against the fold in the fabric section so that the second needle passes through said edge portions and into and out of the fabric section onthe. same face thereof.
  • a further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above type having independent overedge stitch forming devices, one of which overedges and joins the fabric sections while the other overedges the fabric sections and joins the same fiat against one of the fabric sections.
  • a still further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above type wherein the needles are reciprocated in common by an actuating lever and wherein Serial No. 342,922.
  • thread controlling devices are provided for supplying a greater amount of thread to one of said overedge stitch forming devices and then the other.
  • Fig. 1 is a front view of a sewing. machine embodying the improvements.
  • Fig. 2 is an end view of the same.
  • Fig. 3 is a view partly in section and partly in plan on the line 3-3 of Fig. 2.
  • Fig. 4 is a plan view showing the work support, the folder, stitch finger and the means for supporting the same.
  • FIG. 5 is a bottom plan view of the throat p ate.
  • Fig. 6 is a side view of the throat plate, also showing the cloth plate and the support for the lower trimming blade with the trimming blade broken away to show the construction of the throat plate in rear thereof.
  • Fig. -7 is a plan view of certain of the parts beneath the work support, showing the feed dogs and the loopers and the needles in section.
  • V Fig. 8 is a view in perspective showing the presser feet, the means for supporting the same, the upper feed dog and the feed bar therefor with the feed bar and feed dog separated from its supporting means.
  • F ig. 9 is a detailed view in perspective showing the front presser foot and the parts for supporting the same, said partsbeing separated to more clearly show the structure thereof.
  • Fig. 10 is a perspective underface view of the folder plate for. folding the lower fabric section.
  • Fig. 11 is a front view of a portion of the overhanging arm and showing the needle actuating lever and the thread controlling devices associated therewith.
  • Fig. 12 is a sectional view on the line 12-12 of Fig. 11. V
  • Fig. 13 is a perspective View of one of the thread guide supporting brackets.
  • Fig. 14 is a perspective View of the thread engaging member carried by the needle lever.
  • Fig. 15 is a sectional View through the fabric sections after they have been joined by the first overedge stitch forming devices.
  • Fig. 16 is a sectional view through the fabric sections after the second overedge stitch forming devices have joined the overedge portions to the face of one fabric section and with the fabric parts as placed in the machine for this second stitching operation.
  • Fig. 17 is a sectional view on the line g y of Fig. 4 showing the folder plate forming a fold in the'lower fabric section.
  • Fig. 18 is a sectional view on the line mw of Fig. 4, and showing the spring latch'for holding the folder plate in its operative and inoperative positions.
  • Fig. 19 is an end view of the bracket which supports the folder plate and showing the slot which permits a slight movement of the folder plate on its supporting bracket.
  • Fig. 20 is an end View of the collar which is secured to the shaft and which carries a pin, engaging the slot in the supporting bracket for the folder plate.
  • the invention is directed to a sewing machine havingstwo independent stitching de- Vices with the needles thereof parallel and with one substantially in rear of the other.
  • Cooperating with the front needle beneath the work support is a thread carrying looper and cooperating with this looper and with the needle above the work support is a second thread carrying looper.
  • Gooperating with the rear needle is a nonthread carrying looper and an overedge thread carrying looper.
  • the material is fed across the work support by a feeding mechanism which includes a main feed dog of the four-motion type, an auxiliary feed dog located inadvance thereof which is also of the fourmotion type. These two feed dogs are mounted beneath the work support. As a further means for feeding the material there is an upper feed dog of the four-motion type.
  • the material is held on the work support by a series of presser feet. There are two presser feet side by side associated with the rear needle, one of which rests upon the folded portions of thefabric sections while the other rests upon the fabric sections at one side thereof. There is a presser foot in advance of the front needle for holding the material firmly during the trimming of the edge portionsthereof and the machine is provided with a trimmer for this purpose. Alongside of this presser foot is a folder plate which is of peculiar cross sectional shape. This folder plate lies between the two fabric sections which are fed to the machine for joining their edge portions.
  • the folder plate extends alongside of the front needle and also alongside of the rear needle and terminates just in rear thereof.-
  • the folderplate forms a fold in the lower fabric section. This fold begins slightly in advance of the front needle but is not completed until after the fabric has passed the front needle so that the front needle does not pass through the fold.
  • the fold is laid against the joined superposed edges of the fabric sections on the under face-thereof and presented to the rear needle so that I the rear needle passes through the edge portions and into and out of the face of the folded fabric section.
  • a Y c The throat plate is provided with a yielding section and the folded part of the fabric section is guided underneath thisyielding section while the edge portions'are guided over the yielding section.
  • a presser foot which bears on the upper fabric section directly over the folder plate.
  • the upper feed dog Alongside of the presser foot is the upper feed dog, and the upper feed dog and associated presser foot are so supported and operated that the presser foot serves as a fulcrum means for the lifting of the feed foot and the feed foot servesas a fulcrum means for the lifting of the presser foot.
  • Both needles are reciprocated by means of a needle lever and associated with this needle lever are thread controlling devices for the two needles.
  • the rear needle passes not only through the superposed edges but through the folded fabric section and con siderable more needle thread is required for this stitching operation than for the first needle which stitches only through the superposed edge portions.
  • the needle lever is provided with a pull off mechanism for pulling thread from the supply for the needle of the rear overedge stitch forming device.
  • the machine includes a bed plate 1 on which is lllOUIlllGCltt work support 2 and a stand ard 3 carrying an overhanging arm 4.
  • a needle bar 5 mounted for reciprocation in the overhanging arm.
  • Said needle bar is connected by 'means of a link 6 to a needle lever 7 which isv pivoted at 8-to the standard 3.
  • the needle lever is oscillated by means of a link 9 cooperating with a main shaft mounted in suitable bearings on the bed of the machine; Attached to this main shaft is an ordinary belt wheel 10 provided with two needles 11 and 12.
  • an overedge looper 13 and cooperating with the needle beneath the work support and said overedge loope'r 13 is a thread carrying looper 13.
  • Cooperating with the needle l2 is an over'edge looper 14 and cooperating with the needle beneath the work support and with this overedge looper 1.4 is a non-thread carrying looper 14L (see Fig. 7).
  • the voveredge stitch forming mechanism just referred to may be of any suitable character, that is, it may be a three-thread overseaining mechanism or a two-thread overseaming mechanism. It is preferable, however, that the overedge stitch forming mechanism which includes the needle 11 which forms the first overedging stitches shall be a three-thread overedging mechanism in which case both loopers will" be thread carrying loopers. It is also preferable that the overedge stitch forming mechanism, of which the needle 12 is a part shall be a two-thread stitch forming mechanism, and in this case one of the loopers will be a non-thread carrying looper.
  • the two over-edge stitch forming mechanisms shall be inclependent of each other in that each produces its own concatenation of thread loops, and the term independent as hereinaftervused 'as' applied to the overedge stitch forming devices is intended to define the resulting action of the devices rather than the mounting or operation of the parts of these overedge stitch forming devices.
  • the loopcrs l3 and 14L are mounted on an arm 15 carried by a shaft 16 mounted in suitable bearings in the bed 1 of the ma'- chine, and this shaft is oscillated by means of a link 17 which cooperates with a crank on the forward end of the main shaft 17
  • the under loopers are operated by means of a link 18 connected to a rock lever 19 which, in turn, is connected by a link 20 to the needle lever extension 21.
  • the material as it is fed to thestitching mechanism is first presented to a trimming device which includes a lower stationary trimming blade 22 secured by a suitable clamping means to the work support 2, and an upper movable trimming blade 23.
  • This upper blade is carried by a lever 24: loosely mounted on a shaft 25 and secured to an arm 26 by a clamping means 27 which is hand controlled.
  • the member 26 is raised and lowered by an eccentric strap 28 cooperating with an eccentric on the main shaft.
  • the material is fed across the work support by a feeding mechanism which in cludes a main feed dog 29 and an auxiliary bars are both raised and lowered by a suitable eccentric on the main shaft.
  • the fabric sections to be joined arc indicated in the drawings at F, F
  • These fabric sections are first joined by the overedge stitching mechanism which passes neethe thread loops n through the fabric sections back from the edge thereof.
  • These needle thread loops are locked on the under face of the fabric by a looper thread Z and the looper. thread is locked by a second looper thread Z which passes over the edge ofthe fabric and is secured by the needle thread loops.
  • the fabric sections After the fabric sections have had their edge portions joined, as indicated in Fig. 15, they then pass to the secohd overedging mechanism where these e ge portions are stitched down to one of the fabric sections. To accomplish this, the fabric section F is bent downwardly as it.
  • the needle thread loop a passes through the joined edge portions of the fabric sections and then into the lower fabricsection-and out of the lower section on the same face thereof. These needle thread loops are locked by a loop'er thread Z5, which extends around the edges of the fabric sections and thus coinpletes the two-thread overedge stitch.
  • This fold inthe fabric is accoinplis he'dby means of a folding plate
  • the folding plate is L-shaped. Said plate is secured to a supporting plate 35 which is mounted on shaft 36 extending up through a sleeve formed as an integral part of a bracket 38.
  • the bracket 38 is mounted on ro d 39." On the end of this rod there is acollar 40 which is secured to the rod by set screws 41 This collar 10 is provided with a pin 42 which .is adapted to extend into a recess 13 in the bracket 38. Thus it is that the bracket 38 may be set in any desired adjusted osition on this rod 39.
  • the recess is suf ciently wide to permit a limited amount of swing of the bracket on the rod 39
  • Also mounted on the bracket is a lock- 2 ing pin 14:.
  • Said locking pin has itsl'owe r end rounded as indicated at 45 and the pin is pressed downwardly in its supporting sleeve by means of a spring 46.
  • the supporting plate is provided with two depressions into which the locking pin 41% is forced by the spring and these depressions are so positioned as to hold the fabric folding plate in operative position adjacent the needles, and also to hold the plate when it is moved to inoperative position.
  • the movement of the bracket on the rod 39 is to permit the end of the plate to be raised so that it may be moved to an inoperative position.
  • the under layer of fabric F passes beneath this plate.
  • the bracket is at one side of the line of feed so as to permit the free movement of the fabric beneath the plate.
  • Tlhe upper layer of fabric F passes over the ate.
  • the fabric folding plate as shown. in Fig. 10, is formed with a vertical depending rib 47 whichextends along the right hand side of the plate as viewed-in Fig. 4 to a position abreast of the needle 11 where it widens out into a substantially fiat projecting portion 48.
  • the throat plate 49 is provided with a recess and the rib 4C7 lies adjacent the right hand wall of this recess 50.
  • the fabric F is bent down'into this recess, and thus it is that the fold in the fabric indicated in Fig. 15 is formed as the fabric sections pass to the first overedge stitching mechanism. As the fabric sections pass the first needle, then the flattened end portion 48 of the folding plate will carry the fold in the fabric laterally to the position shown in Figs. 16 and 17, and thus it is presented to the needle 12.
  • the throat plate is provided with a yielding section 51.
  • the yielding section vextends along the right hand side of the needle 11 as indicated at 53 and terminates in a relatively flat portion 54 in front of and at one side of the needle 12.
  • the lateral projection 48 of the folder plate eX- tends under this flattened end portion 54:.
  • the overedge stitches formed by the front stitching devices are formed about this portion 53 and are fed off from the end thereof by the feed of the fabric.
  • the part 48 forms the fold f in the under fabric section and places this folded portion underneath the yielding section 54: of the throat plate.
  • the fold f is positioned so that the needle 12 enters the same.
  • the previously joined edges pass over the por tion 54: of the throat plate and off from the same.
  • the overedge stitches of the rear Stitching mechanism are formed about these '59 (see Fig. 2).
  • edge portions and the stitch finger 12 and pass into and out of the under fabric section.
  • the yielding section 51 is normally held raised by means of a spring 55 which is secured by a screw 56 to the work support 2.
  • This spring is in the form of an arm bearing on the under face of the yielding section of the throat plate.
  • the bracket 59 carrying this presser foot is rigidly secured'to the rod 39 (see Fig.
  • the rod 89 which carries this front presser foot and also the folding plate is mounted on a bracket arm 6A which is rigidly attached to a supporting head 65 which is fixed to the main presser bar 66.
  • This main presser bar is mounted in the overhanging arm.
  • Also attached to this head is an auxiliary presser bar 67 likewise mounted for movement in the overhanging arm.
  • These presser bars are normally depressed by a leaf spring of the usual character.
  • the presser bars may be lifted by a treadle controlled lever68 or by means of a hand lever, a portion of which is indicated at 69.
  • an upper feed dog 79 Said upper feed dog 79 is pivoted at 80 to an upper feed bar 81.
  • This upper feed bar 81 is provided with a rectangular opening 82 in which a block 83 is mounted.
  • a screw pin 84 passing through this block 83 is threaded into a vertical portion of the plate 72 (see Fig. 8).
  • the upper feed dog 79 is provided with an auxiliary section 85 which slides in the feed dog and which is yieldingly moved downward by a spring 86 bearing against the upper end of the shank of the auxiliary dog 85 and against a bracket arm overhanging said shank and carried by the auxiliary feed dog 79 proper.
  • This upper feed dog 79 extends alongside of the needle 11 and terminates substantially in line with the needle 12.
  • the feed bar 81 carrying this auxiliary feed dog extends in rear of the head 65.
  • feed bar is raised and lowered by means of a link 87 which is pivoted to a ball stud carried by a rock lever 88.
  • This rock lever is oscillated by means of a link 89 which is connected to an arm 90 fixed to a shaft 91.
  • the shaft 91 carries an arm 92 which is con- .nected to an eccentric strap 93 cooperating with an eccentric on the main shaft.
  • This shaft 91 is mounted in a bracket 94; which is secured to the overhanging arm by means of a screw 95 and to the standard by means of a screw 96.
  • the upper feed bar is moved back and forth by means of a link 97 which is pivoted at 98 to the rear end of the upper feed bar, and this link 97 is in turn adjustably connected to an arm 99 attached to the main feed bar and moved back and forth with the same.
  • the link begins to move down and the presser foot is lowered into engagement with the fabric, after which the downward movement of the link causes the feed bar to swing on the block as a fulcrum and raise the feed dog from the fabric. lVhen the feed dog is raised, then the feed bar is moved endwise" and thus it is that the feed dog is brought to the forward end of its stroke for engage ment with the fabric to feed the same along the folding plate.
  • a presser foot 100 Also mounted on the head 65 is a presser foot 100.
  • Said presserfoot is rigid and engages the fabric sections in rear of the needle 12.
  • Said foot section is located well back from the edges of the fabric sections and cooperates with the two left hand sections of the main feed dog.
  • Another foot section 101 which is located in rear of the needle 12 and which pivoted to the head 65.
  • This presser foot cooperates particularly with the section at the right hand of the feed dog as viewed in Fig. 7.
  • This particular foot section is positioned to feed the extra thicknesses of the fabric incident to the fold formed in the lower fabric section while the main section of the presser' foot operates particularly to hold the fabric sections where they are directly superposed one on the other in contact with the lower feed dog.
  • the thread controlling devices for the -i0 needle threads are especially constructed for operation in conjunction with these overedge stitch forming devices.
  • the forward stitch forming device operates to overedge the superposed edge portions of the fabric sections. No special thread control is necessary for the needle thread of this stitch forming mechanism.
  • the needle thread n for the needle 11 passes from the supply through a suitable tension 102, thence through thread guides 103 to the thread guide 104 and from this thread guide the thread passes to suitable guides and tensions carriedby the needle bar and to the needle.
  • the thread n for the needle 12 passes from the supply through a tension 105 which is a light tension of .the usual The thread controlling device, however, for the needle iao thread a at this point.
  • the thread guides 107 are carried by the arm 110 which is secured to the overhanging arm by a screw '11l so that it may be adjusted to various set positions.
  • the needle thread a passes through the thread guides 103, thence around the tension 106 and through the thread guides 107. It then passes through the thread guide 104 and onto the tension and guides associated with the needle bar.
  • a thread engaging member 113 secured to the lever by a screw 114. Said thread engaging member 113 is provided with two arms 115 and 116 respectively. These arms are bent downwardly along the shank of the thread engaging member 113 and thus form two independent thread engaging faces 117 and 118 respectively.
  • the upper run of the needle thread n passes within this thread engaging member 113 so as to be engaged by the portion 117 thereof.
  • the lower run of the needle thread a passes through this thread engaging member so as to be engaged by the portion 118 thereof.
  • the thread engaging member 118 draws on the needle thread, thus aiding the needle in drawing up the needle loop and the setting of the stitches which occurs when the needle reaches the lower end of its stroke. At this time the member 117 is drawing thread from the supply. On the upward movement of the needle, thread is given up by the members 117 and 118 and the tension 106 will be open, thus allowing the thread to run freely, as the material is being fed. At this time the needle is entering the looper thread loop and ample thread will be given to the needle so that all the thread which has been measured off by the upper thread engaging member on the needle lever will be supplied to the needle.
  • overedge stitching mechanisms may be substituted for those described without departing from the spirit of the invention as set forth in the appended fold is completed and positioned so that the rear needle passes through the joined superposed edge portions and 1nto and out of the under fabric sectlon.
  • the overedge stitches of this rear stitching mechanism not onlysecure the parts so that the seam may be made fiat, but also aid in covering the raw edges of the material,
  • the yielding section of the presser foot is provided with a finger which lies alongside of the advance needle and the left hand face of this finger is slightly curved.
  • the purpose of this finger is to insure that the fold in the fabric be held out of the path of the advance needle. It also aids in the laying of the superposed edges flat onto the folded portion of the under fabric section.
  • the folder plate can be moved to an inoperative position. All of the presser foot sections and the upper feed are carried by the supporting head on the lower end of the presser bar and by lifting the presser bar all of these various pressing members are raised from the work support.
  • the folder plate is also mounted on this supporting head and is lifted when the presser bar is lifted. The folder may be lifted to a further extent by swinging the bracket on the supporting rod therefor.
  • This swinging of the folder plate is useful in the placing of the fabric sections at the beginning of the stitching operation. It is also useful in the finishing operation in a seam for joining the sleeve to a garment, as the swinging of the folder plate enables the fabric sections to be removedtherefrom so that, the seam can be finished.
  • the machine shall be constructed so that the needles of these stitching devices may operate in parallel lines and preferably verticallines and that the fabric shall be folded so as to present the folded face to the rear needle whereby said rear needle passing through the joined edgeportions will secure the same to one of the fabric sections.
  • a sewing. machine including in combination independent stitching devices arranged with their needles parallel and so as to operate in succession on the fabric, and means for presenting fabric sections to said devices so that said sections are joined at their edges by stitches formed by one of said stitching devices and said joined edge portionssecured flat against one of said fabric sections by stitches formed by the other stitching devices.
  • a sewing machine including in combination independent OVeredgeStitch forming devices arranged with their needles parallel and so. as to operate in succession on the fabric, and means for presenting fabric sections to said devices sothat the edges of said sections are, joined and covered by one. of the overedge stitch forming devices -and said joined. edge port ons are secured flat against one of said fabric sections by overed'ge stitches formed by the other stitch formingdevices.
  • a sewing machine including n combination independent stitching devices arstantially in rear of the other,
  • A. sewing machine including in combination a Work support, independent overedge. stitch forming devices arranged, with their needles parallel andv with one substantially in rear of the other, trimming devices located in advance of the needles, a folder located alongside of the advance needle and operating to fold one section of the fabric and direct the fold therein past the first needle and to the second needle whereby they superposed edge portions of the fabric sections may be joined by the first stitching mechanism and the joined edges stitched to one of the fabric sections by the second stitching mechanism.
  • a sewing machine including in combination a work support, independent overedgev stitch forming devices arranged with their needles parallel and with one substantially in rear of the other, trimming devices located in advance of the needles, a folder located alongside of the advance needle and operating to fold one section of the fabric and direct the fold therein past the first needle and to the second needle whereby the superposed edge portions of the fabric sections may be joined by the first stitching mechanism and the joined edges stitched to one of the fabric sections by the second stitching mechanism, and a feeding mechanism' for feeding the fabricsections including a main and an auxiliary feed dog having a differential movement.
  • a sewing machine including in combination a, work support, independent overedge stitch forming. devices arranged with their needles parallel and with one sub;
  • a folder locatedalongside of the advance needle and operating to fold one section of the fabric and direct the fold therein past the first needle and to the needle wherebv the superposed edge.
  • portions of the fabricsections may be joined by the first stitching. mechanism and the j oi'ned. edges stitched to one of the fabric sec-, tions' by the second presser foot located in advanceof-the needles alongside of; the trimming devices, a presser foot alongside of the presser foot associated with the rear needle.
  • a sewing machine including in combination a work support, independent overedge stitch, forming devices arrangedwith trimming desecond,
  • a feeding mechanism for feeding the fabric sections including a main and an auxiliary feed do having a differential movement, pressing devices cooperating with said feed dogs and arranged so as to hold the fabric alongside the trimming devices and in the region operated upon by the stitching devices.
  • a sewing machine including in combination a work support, independent overedge stitch forming devices arranged with their needles parallel and with one sub stantially in rear of the other, trimming devices located in advance of the needles, a folder located alongside of the advance needle and operating to fold one section of the fabric and direct the fold therein past the first needle and to the second needle whereby the superposed edge portions of the fabric sections may be joined by the first stitching mechanism and the joined edges stitched to one of the fabric sections by the second stitching mechanism, a feeding mechanism for feeding the fabric sections including a main and an auxiliary feed dog having a differential movement, pressing devices cooperating with said feed dogs and arranged so as to hold the fabric alongside the trimming devices and in the region operated upon by the stitching devices, said pressing devices including a foot section disposed alongside of the advance needle and directly above the folder, an upper feed dog adapted to engage the material directly abovethe folder and alongside of the advance needle, said upper feed dog and foot section being connected so that when oneis raised the other is lowered.
  • a sewing machine including in combination independent stitch forming devices arranged with their needles parallel and with one substantially in rear of the other, a feeding mechanism for presenting fabric sections with their edges superposed to the needles, mechanism for folding one of the fabric sections and for directing the fold in the fabric past the first needle and across the path of the second needle so that the superposed edge portions are secured by the rear stitching devices to one of said fabric sections, said mechanism including a folder plate having a depending rib extending alongside of the advance needle, and a horizontally projecting portion extending in front of the rear needle.
  • a sewing machine including in combination independent stitch forming devices arranged with their needles parallel and with one substantially in rear of the other, a feeding mechanism for presenting fabric sections with their edges superposed to the needles, mechanism for folding one of the fabric sections and in the fabric past the first needle and across the path of the second needle so that the superposed edge portions are secured by the rear stitching devices to one of said fabric sections, said mechanism including a folder plate having a depending rib extending alongside of the advance needle, a horizontally projecting portion extending in front of the rear needle, and a throat plate having a recess for the rib on the folder plate so as to form clearance to permit the folding of the under fabric section.
  • a sewing machine including in combination independentstitch forming devices arranged with their needles parallel and with one substantially in rear of the other, a feeding mechanism for presenting fabric sections with their edges superposed to the needles, mechanism for folding one of the fabric sections and for directing the fold in the fabric past the first needle and across the path of the second needle so that the superposed edge portions are secured by the rear stitching devices to one of said fabric sections, said'mechanism including a folder plate having a depending rib extending alongside of the advance needle, a horizontally projecting portion extending in front of the rear needle, a throat plate having a recess for the rib on the folder plateso as to form clearance to permit the folding of the under fabric section, said throat plate having a yielding section adapted to overlie the horizontally projecting portion on the folder plate for holding the fabric section folded about said plate and supporting the superposed edges of the fabric sections while the same are being stitched and joined to the I fabric section by the rear stitching devices.
  • a sewing'machine including in,com-' bination independent stitch forming devices arranged with their needles parallel and with one substantially in rear of the other, a feeding mechanism for presenting fabric sections with their edges superposed to the needles, mechanism for foldin one of the fabric sections and for directmg the fold in the fabric past the first needle andacross the path of the second needle so that the superposed edge portions are secured by the rear stitching devices to one of said fabric sections, said mechanism including a folder plate having a depending rib extending alongside of the advance needle, a horizontally projecting portion extending in front for directing the fold of the rear needle, a bracket on which said folder plate is mounted, means for supporting said bracket whereby the same may be swung to a limited extent in a vertical direction, means for pivotally supporting said plate on said bracket whereby the same may be swung in substantially a horizontal direction, and yielding means for holding saidplate in set position on said bracket.
  • a sewing machine including in combination a Work support, independent overedge stitch forming devices arranged with their needles parallel and with one substantially in rear of the other, trimming devices located in advance of the front needle, a feeding mechanism including a main and an auxiliary feed dog having a differential feeding movement, a presser bar, a support- I ing head carried by said presser bar, a forwardly projecting supporting rod carried by said head, a bracket mounted on said head for limited vertical oscillation, a folder plate carried by said bracket and normally disposed alongside of the front needle and extending in front of the rear needle for forming a fold in the under fabric section and presenting the same to the rear needle, a presser foot disposed alongside of said trimming devices, means for yieldingly supporting said presser foot on said rod carrying the folder plate, a presser foot having independent yielding sections associated with the rear needle and carried by said supporting head, a presser foot disposed above the folder plate and alongside of said front needle, an upper feed dog, said upper feed dog and last-named presser foot being supported by said head and
  • a sewing machine including in combination overedge stitch forming devices arranged with their needles parallel and with one substantially in rear of the other, means for feeding and directing fabric sections to said stitch forming devices so that the front needle passes through the superposed edge portions of the sections only while the rear needle passes through said superposed edges and into and out of one of said fabric sections for securing the joined edges to the fabric section, and a thread controlling mechanism for the needle thread of the rear needle including means for pulling thread from the supply on the down stroke of the needle and for giving said thread to the needle on its up stroke.
  • a sewing machine including in combination overedge stitch forming devices arranged with their needles parallel and with one substantially in rear of the other, means for feeding and directing fabric sections to said stitch forming devices so that the front needle passes through the superposed edge portions of the sections only while the rear needle passes through said superposed edges and into and out of one of said fabric sections for securing the joined edges to the fabric section, and a thread controlling mechanism for the needle thread of the rear needle including a tension for gripping the needle thread while the needle is in the fabric and for releasing the needle thread when the needle is on the upper part of its stroke, and means disposed between the tension and the supply for drawing thread from the supply when the tension is closed and means between the tension and the needle for drawing on the thread while the -11 needle is drawing up the previously formed loops.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Description

June 24, 1930.
'v -sheets-sneet Filed Feb. 26, v1929 June 24, 1930. J. BERGER 1,768,105
' v SEWING MACHINE Filed Feb. 26. 1929 7 Sheets-Sheet 2 J. BERGER 1 1,768,105
SEWING MACHINE Filed Fel 26, 19 29 June 24, 1930,
- 7 Sheets-Sheet- June 24,1930.) J.BEER -1,768,105
SEWING MACHINE Filed Feb. 26, 1929 7 Sheets-Sheet 4 June 24, 1930.
J. BERGER SEWING MACHINE '7 Sheets-Sheet Filed Feb. 26, 1929 gwntom v, I 1 G1 I I 1 E 2 E l I f;
June 24 1930. J. BERGER 1,768,105
SEWING MACHINE Filed Feb. 26, 1929 '7 Sheets-Sheet 6 JOSEPH BERGER, OF UTICA, NEW YORK,
Patented June 24, 1930 UNITED STATES PATENT oFFIcEj ASSIGNOR TO UNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CGRPORATION OF ILLINOIS.
SEWING MACHINE Application filed February 26', 1929.
The invention relates to new and useful improvements in sewing machines and more particularly to a sewing machine provided with independent stitching devices.
An object of the invention is to provide a sewing machine of the above type having independent overedge stitch forming devices operating in succession to stitch the edge portions of fabric sections.
A further object of the invention is to provide a sewing machine having stitching devices with the needles thereof arranged to operate in parallel lines and in succession to stitch the edge portions of fabric sections with means for directing the fabric sections so that the first stitching device operates to join the edge portions of the fabric sections and the second stitching devices operate to secure said edge portions to one face of the fabric sections.
A further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above type wherein a fold in one of the fabric sections is formed and is presented to the needle of the second stitching mechanism only so that said needle passes into and out of said fabric section on the same face thereof.
A further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above type with a folder operating to fold one of said fabric sections and direct the fold. therein at one side of the first needle and into the path of the second needle and wherein means is provided for firmly holding the edge portions joined by the first needle against the fold in the fabric section so that the second needle passes through said edge portions and into and out of the fabric section onthe. same face thereof.
A further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above type having independent overedge stitch forming devices, one of which overedges and joins the fabric sections while the other overedges the fabric sections and joins the same fiat against one of the fabric sections. v
A still further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above type wherein the needles are reciprocated in common by an actuating lever and wherein Serial No. 342,922.
thread controlling devices are provided for supplying a greater amount of thread to one of said overedge stitch forming devices and then the other.
These and other objects will. in part be obvious and will in part be hereinafter more fully disclosed.
In the drawings which show by way of illustration one embodiment of the invent1on:- v
Fig. 1 is a front view of a sewing. machine embodying the improvements.
Fig. 2 is an end view of the same.
Fig. 3 is a view partly in section and partly in plan on the line 3-3 of Fig. 2.
Fig. 4 is a plan view showing the work support, the folder, stitch finger and the means for supporting the same.
1Fig. 5 is a bottom plan view of the throat p ate.
Fig. 6 is a side view of the throat plate, also showing the cloth plate and the support for the lower trimming blade with the trimming blade broken away to show the construction of the throat plate in rear thereof.
Fig. -7 is a plan view of certain of the parts beneath the work support, showing the feed dogs and the loopers and the needles in section. V Fig. 8 is a view in perspective showing the presser feet, the means for supporting the same, the upper feed dog and the feed bar therefor with the feed bar and feed dog separated from its supporting means.
F ig. 9 is a detailed view in perspective showing the front presser foot and the parts for supporting the same, said partsbeing separated to more clearly show the structure thereof.
Fig. 10 is a perspective underface view of the folder plate for. folding the lower fabric section.
Fig. 11 is a front view of a portion of the overhanging arm and showing the needle actuating lever and the thread controlling devices associated therewith. v
Fig. 12 is a sectional view on the line 12-12 of Fig. 11. V
Fig. 13 is a perspective View of one of the thread guide supporting brackets.
Fig. 14 is a perspective View of the thread engaging member carried by the needle lever.
Fig. 15 is a sectional View through the fabric sections after they have been joined by the first overedge stitch forming devices.
Fig. 16 is a sectional view through the fabric sections after the second overedge stitch forming devices have joined the overedge portions to the face of one fabric section and with the fabric parts as placed in the machine for this second stitching operation.
Fig. 17 is a sectional view on the line g y of Fig. 4 showing the folder plate forming a fold in the'lower fabric section.
Fig. 18 is a sectional view on the line mw of Fig. 4, and showing the spring latch'for holding the folder plate in its operative and inoperative positions.
Fig. 19 is an end view of the bracket which supports the folder plate and showing the slot which permits a slight movement of the folder plate on its supporting bracket.
Fig. 20 is an end View of the collar which is secured to the shaft and which carries a pin, engaging the slot in the supporting bracket for the folder plate.
The invention is directed to a sewing machine havingstwo independent stitching de- Vices with the needles thereof parallel and with one substantially in rear of the other. In the illustrated embodiment of the invention there are devices cooperating with each needle, to form independent overedge stitches. Cooperating with the front needle beneath the work support is a thread carrying looper and cooperating with this looper and with the needle above the work support is a second thread carrying looper. Gooperating with the rear needle is a nonthread carrying looper and an overedge thread carrying looper. j
The material is fed across the work support by a feeding mechanism which includes a main feed dog of the four-motion type, an auxiliary feed dog located inadvance thereof which is also of the fourmotion type. These two feed dogs are mounted beneath the work support. As a further means for feeding the material there is an upper feed dog of the four-motion type. The material is held on the work support by a series of presser feet. There are two presser feet side by side associated with the rear needle, one of which rests upon the folded portions of thefabric sections while the other rests upon the fabric sections at one side thereof. There is a presser foot in advance of the front needle for holding the material firmly during the trimming of the edge portionsthereof and the machine is provided with a trimmer for this purpose. Alongside of this presser foot is a folder plate which is of peculiar cross sectional shape. This folder plate lies between the two fabric sections which are fed to the machine for joining their edge portions. g
The folder plate extends alongside of the front needle and also alongside of the rear needle and terminates just in rear thereof.- The folderplate forms a fold in the lower fabric section. This fold begins slightly in advance of the front needle but is not completed until after the fabric has passed the front needle so that the front needle does not pass through the fold. The fold is laid against the joined superposed edges of the fabric sections on the under face-thereof and presented to the rear needle so that I the rear needle passes through the edge portions and into and out of the face of the folded fabric section. a Y c The throat plate is provided with a yielding section and the folded part of the fabric section is guided underneath thisyielding section while the edge portions'are guided over the yielding section. Alongside of the front needle is a presser footwhich bears on the upper fabric section directly over the folder plate. Alongside of the presser foot is the upper feed dog, and the upper feed dog and associated presser foot are so supported and operated that the presser foot serves as a fulcrum means for the lifting of the feed foot and the feed foot servesas a fulcrum means for the lifting of the presser foot.
Both needles are reciprocated by means of a needle lever and associated with this needle lever are thread controlling devices for the two needles. The rear needle passes not only through the superposed edges but through the folded fabric section and con siderable more needle thread is required for this stitching operation than for the first needle which stitches only through the superposed edge portions. To this-end the needle lever is provided with a pull off mechanism for pulling thread from the supply for the needle of the rear overedge stitch forming device.
Referring more in detail to the drawings, the machine includes a bed plate 1 on which is lllOUIlllGCltt work support 2 and a stand ard 3 carrying an overhanging arm 4. Mounted for reciprocation in the overhanging arm is a needle bar 5. Said needle bar is connected by 'means of a link 6 to a needle lever 7 which isv pivoted at 8-to the standard 3. The needle lever is oscillated by means of a link 9 cooperating with a main shaft mounted in suitable bearings on the bed of the machine; Attached to this main shaft is an ordinary belt wheel 10 provided with two needles 11 and 12. Cooperating with the needle 11 is an overedge looper 13 and cooperating with the needle beneath the work support and said overedge loope'r 13 is a thread carrying looper 13. Cooperating with the needle l2is an over'edge looper 14 and cooperating with the needle beneath the work support and with this overedge looper 1.4 is a non-thread carrying looper 14L (see Fig. 7).
The voveredge stitch forming mechanism just referred to may be of any suitable character, that is, it may be a three-thread overseaining mechanism or a two-thread overseaming mechanism. It is preferable, however, that the overedge stitch forming mechanism which includes the needle 11 which forms the first overedging stitches shall be a three-thread overedging mechanism in which case both loopers will" be thread carrying loopers. It is also preferable that the overedge stitch forming mechanism, of which the needle 12 is a part shall be a two-thread stitch forming mechanism, and in this case one of the loopers will be a non-thread carrying looper. It is essential, however, that the two over-edge stitch forming mechanisms shall be inclependent of each other in that each produces its own concatenation of thread loops, and the term independent as hereinaftervused 'as' applied to the overedge stitch forming devices is intended to define the resulting action of the devices rather than the mounting or operation of the parts of these overedge stitch forming devices.
The loopcrs l3 and 14L are mounted on an arm 15 carried by a shaft 16 mounted in suitable bearings in the bed 1 of the ma'- chine, and this shaft is oscillated by means of a link 17 which cooperates with a crank on the forward end of the main shaft 17 The under loopers are operated by means of a link 18 connected to a rock lever 19 which, in turn, is connected by a link 20 to the needle lever extension 21.
As noted, these features are 'of well known construction and will not need further description.
The material as it is fed to thestitching mechanism is first presented to a trimming device which includes a lower stationary trimming blade 22 secured by a suitable clamping means to the work support 2, and an upper movable trimming blade 23. This upper blade is carried by a lever 24: loosely mounted on a shaft 25 and secured to an arm 26 by a clamping means 27 which is hand controlled. The member 26 is raised and lowered by an eccentric strap 28 cooperating with an eccentric on the main shaft. v
The material is fed across the work support by a feeding mechanism which in cludes a main feed dog 29 and an auxiliary bars are both raised and lowered by a suitable eccentric on the main shaft.
The fabric sections to be joined arc indicated in the drawings at F, F These fabric sections are first joined by the overedge stitching mechanism which passes neethe thread loops n through the fabric sections back from the edge thereof. These needle thread loops are locked on the under face of the fabric by a looper thread Z and the looper. thread is locked by a second looper thread Z which passes over the edge ofthe fabric and is secured by the needle thread loops. After the fabric sections have had their edge portions joined, as indicated in Fig. 15, they then pass to the secohd overedging mechanism where these e ge portions are stitched down to one of the fabric sections. To accomplish this, the fabric section F is bent downwardly as it. is d-i rected to the first overedge stitch forming mechanism, and it is then carried to the right until a fold is formed in. the lower section and the fold f thus forined by the folding of this lower section is presented 50' that the needle 12 will pass through said 3 fold, first having passedthrough the joined edge portions of the fabric sections.
As clearly shown in Fig. 16, the needle thread loop a passes through the joined edge portions of the fabric sections and then into the lower fabricsection-and out of the lower section on the same face thereof. These needle thread loops are locked by a loop'er thread Z5, which extends around the edges of the fabric sections and thus coinpletes the two-thread overedge stitch. This fold inthe fabric is accoinplis he'dby means of a folding plate The folding plate is L-shaped. Said plate is secured to a supporting plate 35 which is mounted on shaft 36 extending up through a sleeve formed as an integral part of a bracket 38. The bracket 38 is mounted on ro d 39." On the end of this rod there is acollar 40 which is secured to the rod by set screws 41 This collar 10 is provided with a pin 42 which .is adapted to extend into a recess 13 in the bracket 38. Thus it is that the bracket 38 may be set in any desired adjusted osition on this rod 39. The recess is suf ciently wide to permit a limited amount of swing of the bracket on the rod 39 Also mounted on the bracket is a lock- 2 ing pin 14:. Said locking pin has itsl'owe r end rounded as indicated at 45 and the pin is pressed downwardly in its supporting sleeve by means of a spring 46. The supporting plate is provided with two depressions into which the locking pin 41% is forced by the spring and these depressions are so positioned as to hold the fabric folding plate in operative position adjacent the needles, and also to hold the plate when it is moved to inoperative position.
The movement of the bracket on the rod 39 is to permit the end of the plate to be raised so that it may be moved to an inoperative position.
The under layer of fabric F passes beneath this plate. The bracket is at one side of the line of feed so as to permit the free movement of the fabric beneath the plate. Tlhe upper layer of fabric F passes over the ate.
The fabric folding plate, as shown. in Fig. 10, is formed with a vertical depending rib 47 whichextends along the right hand side of the plate as viewed-in Fig. 4 to a position abreast of the needle 11 where it widens out into a substantially fiat projecting portion 48.
The throat plate 49 is provided with a recess and the rib 4C7 lies adjacent the right hand wall of this recess 50. The fabric F is bent down'into this recess, and thus it is that the fold in the fabric indicated in Fig. 15 is formed as the fabric sections pass to the first overedge stitching mechanism. As the fabric sections pass the first needle, then the flattened end portion 48 of the folding plate will carry the fold in the fabric laterally to the position shown in Figs. 16 and 17, and thus it is presented to the needle 12.
The throat plate is provided with a yielding section 51. The yielding section vextends along the right hand side of the needle 11 as indicated at 53 and terminates in a relatively flat portion 54 in front of and at one side of the needle 12. The lateral projection 48 of the folder plate eX- tends under this flattened end portion 54:. The overedge stitches formed by the front stitching devices are formed about this portion 53 and are fed off from the end thereof by the feed of the fabric. Alongside of the needle 12 is a stitch finger 12 around which the overedge stitches are formed by the rear stitch forming devices. This stitch finger is mounted on the bracket arm 64.
As clearly shown in Fig. 17 the part 48 forms the fold f in the under fabric section and places this folded portion underneath the yielding section 54: of the throat plate. Thusit is that the fold f is positioned so that the needle 12 enters the same. The previously joined edges pass over the por tion 54: of the throat plate and off from the same. The overedge stitches of the rear Stitching mechanism are formed about these '59 (see Fig. 2).
edge portions and the stitch finger 12 and pass into and out of the under fabric section.
It is the cooperative action of the folding plate 34 and the yielding section 51 of the throat plate that makes the fold in the lower section of the fabric and presents it in' proper position to the needle 12. This all takes place after the fabric passes the needle 11 so that the needle 11 merely passes through the two superposed fabric sections while the needle 12 passes not only through the two superposed fabric sections, but also into and out of the lower fabric section, thus stitching down the joined edge portions to this lower fabric section.
The yielding section 51 is normally held raised by means of a spring 55 which is secured by a screw 56 to the work support 2. This spring is in the form of an arm bearing on the under face of the yielding section of the throat plate.
As the material is fed to the machine,it passes beneath a presser foot 57 This presser foot is carried by a bar 58 mounted in a bracket arm 59 and yieldingly forced downward by means of a coil spring '60 having an arm 61 bearing on a pin 62 carried by the bar 58 and projecting through a slot 63 in the side wall of the bracket arm Thus it is that the bar carrying this foot is yieldingly pressed toward the work support. The foot section is pivotally attached to the bar 58 so that it rides freely onto the material. This section of the presser foot'is directly over the yielding portion of the throat plate and is also alongside of the trimming blade so that the fabric sections are held together during the trimming of the fabric sections. The bracket 59 carrying this presser foot is rigidly secured'to the rod 39 (see Fig. The rod 89 which carries this front presser foot and also the folding plate is mounted on a bracket arm 6A which is rigidly attached to a supporting head 65 which is fixed to the main presser bar 66. This main presser bar is mounted in the overhanging arm. Also attached to this head is an auxiliary presser bar 67 likewise mounted for movement in the overhanging arm. These presser bars are normally depressed by a leaf spring of the usual character.
The presser bars may be lifted by a treadle controlled lever68 or by means of a hand lever, a portion of which is indicated at 69.
There is also a foot section 7 0 which bears V i This stop screw limits the downward move ment of the plate 72.
Associated with this foot is an upper feed dog 79. Said upper feed dog 79 is pivoted at 80 to an upper feed bar 81. This upper feed bar 81 is provided with a rectangular opening 82 in which a block 83 is mounted. A screw pin 84 passing through this block 83 is threaded into a vertical portion of the plate 72 (see Fig. 8). The upper feed dog 79 is provided with an auxiliary section 85 which slides in the feed dog and which is yieldingly moved downward by a spring 86 bearing against the upper end of the shank of the auxiliary dog 85 and against a bracket arm overhanging said shank and carried by the auxiliary feed dog 79 proper. This upper feed dog 79 extends alongside of the needle 11 and terminates substantially in line with the needle 12. The feed bar 81 carrying this auxiliary feed dog extends in rear of the head 65. The
) feed bar is raised and lowered by means of a link 87 which is pivoted to a ball stud carried by a rock lever 88. This rock lever is oscillated by means of a link 89 which is connected to an arm 90 fixed to a shaft 91.
The shaft 91 carries an arm 92 which is con- .nected to an eccentric strap 93 cooperating with an eccentric on the main shaft. This shaft 91 is mounted in a bracket 94; which is secured to the overhanging arm by means of a screw 95 and to the standard by means of a screw 96. The upper feed bar is moved back and forth by means of a link 97 which is pivoted at 98 to the rear end of the upper feed bar, and this link 97 is in turn adjustably connected to an arm 99 attached to the main feed bar and moved back and forth with the same.
The parts are so timed that when the needle starts on its upward stroke the rear end of the upper feed bar is being raised by the connecting link swinging the feed bar on the block as a fulcrum, until the feed dog engages the fabric. A further lifting movement of the link will raise the fulcrum block for the feed bar the feed dog now becoming the fulcrum which causes said block to be raised. As this block is raised, itraises the plate to which the presser foot 70 is attached and raises this section of the presser foot free from contact with the fabric. It is during this time that the feed bar is moved backward with the two under feed dogs and the fabric fed. As the needle begins to descend the link begins to move down and the presser foot is lowered into engagement with the fabric, after which the downward movement of the link causes the feed bar to swing on the block as a fulcrum and raise the feed dog from the fabric. lVhen the feed dog is raised, then the feed bar is moved endwise" and thus it is that the feed dog is brought to the forward end of its stroke for engage ment with the fabric to feed the same along the folding plate.
- Also mounted on the head 65 is a presser foot 100. Said presserfoot is rigid and engages the fabric sections in rear of the needle 12. Said foot section is located well back from the edges of the fabric sections and cooperates with the two left hand sections of the main feed dog. There is also another foot section 101 which is located in rear of the needle 12 and which pivoted to the head 65. This presser foot cooperates particularly with the section at the right hand of the feed dog as viewed in Fig. 7. This particular foot section is positioned to feed the extra thicknesses of the fabric incident to the fold formed in the lower fabric section while the main section of the presser' foot operates particularly to hold the fabric sections where they are directly superposed one on the other in contact with the lower feed dog.
The thread controlling devices for the -i0 needle threads are especially constructed for operation in conjunction with these overedge stitch forming devices. The forward stitch forming device operates to overedge the superposed edge portions of the fabric sections. No special thread control is necessary for the needle thread of this stitch forming mechanism. The needle thread n for the needle 11 passes from the supply through a suitable tension 102, thence through thread guides 103 to the thread guide 104 and from this thread guide the thread passes to suitable guides and tensions carriedby the needle bar and to the needle.
12 is especially adapted for supplying sufiicientthread so that when .the edge portions are joined to the fabric face of one of the fabric sections the threads will not be drawn so tight as to prevent the sections from lying in a flat seam when removed from the machine.
To this end the thread n for the needle 12 passes from the supply through a tension 105 which is a light tension of .the usual The thread controlling device, however, for the needle iao thread a at this point.
ried by a bracket arm 108 which is secured to the overhanging arm by a screw 109 passing through a slot in the arm so that said arm can be adjusted on said screw. The thread guides 107 are carried by the arm 110 which is secured to the overhanging arm by a screw '11l so that it may be adjusted to various set positions.
The needle thread a passes through the thread guides 103, thence around the tension 106 and through the thread guides 107. It then passes through the thread guide 104 and onto the tension and guides associated with the needle bar. Mounted on the needle lever 7 is a tension releasing finger 112. WVhen the needle bar is moved to its upper position this finger passes between the tension discs 106 and releases all tension on the Also mounted on the needle lever is a thread engaging member 113 secured to the lever by a screw 114. Said thread engaging member 113 is provided with two arms 115 and 116 respectively. These arms are bent downwardly along the shank of the thread engaging member 113 and thus form two independent thread engaging faces 117 and 118 respectively. The upper run of the needle thread n passes within this thread engaging member 113 so as to be engaged by the portion 117 thereof. The lower run of the needle thread a passes through this thread engaging member so as to be engaged by the portion 118 thereof. When'the needle descends the finger 112 is moved from between the tension discs 106 and thus a tension is placed on the thread a.
The thread engaging member 118 draws on the needle thread, thus aiding the needle in drawing up the needle loop and the setting of the stitches which occurs when the needle reaches the lower end of its stroke. At this time the member 117 is drawing thread from the supply. On the upward movement of the needle, thread is given up by the members 117 and 118 and the tension 106 will be open, thus allowing the thread to run freely, as the material is being fed. At this time the needle is entering the looper thread loop and ample thread will be given to the needle so that all the thread which has been measured off by the upper thread engaging member on the needle lever will be supplied to the needle.
From the above it will be apparent that stitch forming devices have been provided which in the first seaming operation firmly join the superposed edges of the fabric sections. The needle thread loops as shown in Fig. 15 are drawn very taut and as a result the edge portions are bound firmly together. Vhen the seam is drawn into flat position after it is finished, these comparatively tight overedging stitches prevent the pulling of the two sections apart, thus producing 21 grinning of the stitches. In the securing of the joined edge portions to the face of one of the fabric sections, the stitches are more or less loose and this allows the seam to pull flat. The two thread overedge stitches lend themselves particularly to this looser character of stitch. It will be understood, however, from certain aspects of the invention that other forms of overedge stitching mechanisms may be substituted for those described without departing from the spirit of the invention as set forth in the appended fold is completed and positioned so that the rear needle passes through the joined superposed edge portions and 1nto and out of the under fabric sectlon. The overedge stitches of this rear stitching mechanism not onlysecure the parts so that the seam may be made fiat, but also aid in covering the raw edges of the material,
The yielding section of the presser foot is provided with a finger which lies alongside of the advance needle and the left hand face of this finger is slightly curved. The purpose of this finger is to insure that the fold in the fabric be held out of the path of the advance needle. It also aids in the laying of the superposed edges flat onto the folded portion of the under fabric section. The folder plate, as noted above, can be moved to an inoperative position. All of the presser foot sections and the upper feed are carried by the supporting head on the lower end of the presser bar and by lifting the presser bar all of these various pressing members are raised from the work support. The folder plate is also mounted on this supporting head and is lifted when the presser bar is lifted. The folder may be lifted to a further extent by swinging the bracket on the supporting rod therefor. This permits the lifting of the rib from the recess in the throat plate, after which the folder plate may be readily swung away from the needle to an inoperative position. This swinging of the folder plate is useful in the placing of the fabric sections at the beginning of the stitching operation. It is also useful in the finishing operation in a seam for joining the sleeve to a garment, as the swinging of the folder plate enables the fabric sections to be removedtherefrom so that, the seam can be finished. i
After the fabric leaves the machine the two fabric sections are laid in a common plane and then it is that the relatively flat seam appears, as the two. edge portions will licfflat against one of the, fabric sections and be seci redv thereto, by the overedge stitches of t re titch ng m c sm l/Yhile I have shown and described the overedge stiteh forming devices for joining the edge portions and also overedge stitch forming devices for covering and stitching said joined edge portions to one of the fabric sections, it will be understood that other types of stitching devices may be substituted therefor. A straight line of; stitching may be used for joining the edge portions and a straight line of stitching might be used for stitching these joined edge portions to one of the fabric sections. It is essent al, however, that the machine shall be constructed so that the needles of these stitching devices may operate in parallel lines and preferably verticallines and that the fabric shall be folded so as to present the folded face to the rear needle whereby said rear needle passing through the joined edgeportions will secure the same to one of the fabric sections.
' It will be obvious that the mechanisms for feeding the fabric and for holding the fabric and also for folding the fabric may be greatly modified without departing from the spirit of the invention as set forth in the appended claims.
Having fully described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by 1 Letters Patent, is:
1. A sewing. machine including in combination independent stitching devices arranged with their needles parallel and so as to operate in succession on the fabric, and means for presenting fabric sections to said devices so that said sections are joined at their edges by stitches formed by one of said stitching devices and said joined edge portionssecured flat against one of said fabric sections by stitches formed by the other stitching devices. 7
2. A sewing machine including in combination independent OVeredgeStitch forming devices arranged with their needles parallel and so. as to operate in succession on the fabric, and means for presenting fabric sections to said devices sothat the edges of said sections are, joined and covered by one. of the overedge stitch forming devices -and said joined. edge port ons are secured flat against one of said fabric sections by overed'ge stitches formed by the other stitch formingdevices. i
3, A sewing machine including n combination independent stitching devices arstantially in rear of the other,
ranged with their needles paralleland; with one substantially in rear of the other so as to operate in succession on the fabric, means for feeding fabric sections to said devices, a folder plate disposed between said sections at one side of the first needle and operating to fold the under fabric section and present the folded edge to the second needle, and yielding means carried by the throat plate for engaging said folded fabric section.
4. A. sewing machine including in combination a Work support, independent overedge. stitch forming devices arranged, with their needles parallel andv with one substantially in rear of the other, trimming devices located in advance of the needles, a folder located alongside of the advance needle and operating to fold one section of the fabric and direct the fold therein past the first needle and to the second needle whereby they superposed edge portions of the fabric sections may be joined by the first stitching mechanism and the joined edges stitched to one of the fabric sections by the second stitching mechanism.
5. A sewing machine including in combination a work support, independent overedgev stitch forming devices arranged with their needles parallel and with one substantially in rear of the other, trimming devices located in advance of the needles, a folder located alongside of the advance needle and operating to fold one section of the fabric and direct the fold therein past the first needle and to the second needle whereby the superposed edge portions of the fabric sections may be joined by the first stitching mechanism and the joined edges stitched to one of the fabric sections by the second stitching mechanism, and a feeding mechanism' for feeding the fabricsections including a main and an auxiliary feed dog having a differential movement.
6. A sewing machine including in combination a, work support, independent overedge stitch forming. devices arranged with their needles parallel and with one sub;
vices located in advance of the needles, a folder locatedalongside of the advance needle and operating to fold one section of the fabric and direct the fold therein past the first needle and to the needle wherebv the superposed edge. portions of the fabricsections may be joined by the first stitching. mechanism and the j oi'ned. edges stitched to one of the fabric sec-, tions' by the second presser foot located in advanceof-the needles alongside of; the trimming devices, a presser foot alongside of the presser foot associated with the rear needle.
7. A sewing machine including in combination a work support, independent overedge stitch, forming devices arrangedwith trimming desecond,
stitching mechanism, a
advance needle, and; a-
operating to fold one section their needles parallel and with one substantially in rear of the other, trimming devices located in advance of the needles, a folder located alongside of the advance needle and of the fabric and direct the fold therein past the first needle and to the second needle whereby the superposed edge portions of the fabric sections may be joined by the first stitching mechanism and the joined edges stitched to one of the fabric sections by the second stitching mechanism, a feeding mechanism for feeding the fabric sections including a main and an auxiliary feed do having a differential movement, pressing devices cooperating with said feed dogs and arranged so as to hold the fabric alongside the trimming devices and in the region operated upon by the stitching devices.
8. A sewing machine including in combination a work support, independent overedge stitch forming devices arranged with their needles parallel and with one sub stantially in rear of the other, trimming devices located in advance of the needles, a folder located alongside of the advance needle and operating to fold one section of the fabric and direct the fold therein past the first needle and to the second needle whereby the superposed edge portions of the fabric sections may be joined by the first stitching mechanism and the joined edges stitched to one of the fabric sections by the second stitching mechanism, a feeding mechanism for feeding the fabric sections including a main and an auxiliary feed dog having a differential movement, pressing devices cooperating with said feed dogs and arranged so as to hold the fabric alongside the trimming devices and in the region operated upon by the stitching devices, said pressing devices including a foot section disposed alongside of the advance needle and directly above the folder, an upper feed dog adapted to engage the material directly abovethe folder and alongside of the advance needle, said upper feed dog and foot section being connected so that when oneis raised the other is lowered.
9. A sewing machine including in combination independent stitch forming devices arranged with their needles parallel and with one substantially in rear of the other, a feeding mechanism for presenting fabric sections with their edges superposed to the needles, mechanism for folding one of the fabric sections and for directing the fold in the fabric past the first needle and across the path of the second needle so that the superposed edge portions are secured by the rear stitching devices to one of said fabric sections, said mechanism including a folder plate having a depending rib extending alongside of the advance needle, and a horizontally projecting portion extending in front of the rear needle.
10. A sewing machine including in combination independent stitch forming devices arranged with their needles parallel and with one substantially in rear of the other, a feeding mechanism for presenting fabric sections with their edges superposed to the needles, mechanism for folding one of the fabric sections and in the fabric past the first needle and across the path of the second needle so that the superposed edge portions are secured by the rear stitching devices to one of said fabric sections, said mechanism including a folder plate having a depending rib extending alongside of the advance needle, a horizontally projecting portion extending in front of the rear needle, and a throat plate having a recess for the rib on the folder plate so as to form clearance to permit the folding of the under fabric section.
11. A sewing machine including in combination independentstitch forming devices arranged with their needles parallel and with one substantially in rear of the other, a feeding mechanism for presenting fabric sections with their edges superposed to the needles, mechanism for folding one of the fabric sections and for directing the fold in the fabric past the first needle and across the path of the second needle so that the superposed edge portions are secured by the rear stitching devices to one of said fabric sections, said'mechanism including a folder plate having a depending rib extending alongside of the advance needle, a horizontally projecting portion extending in front of the rear needle, a throat plate having a recess for the rib on the folder plateso as to form clearance to permit the folding of the under fabric section, said throat plate having a yielding section adapted to overlie the horizontally projecting portion on the folder plate for holding the fabric section folded about said plate and supporting the superposed edges of the fabric sections while the same are being stitched and joined to the I fabric section by the rear stitching devices.
-12. A sewing'machine including in,com-' bination independent stitch forming devices arranged with their needles parallel and with one substantially in rear of the other, a feeding mechanism for presenting fabric sections with their edges superposed to the needles, mechanism for foldin one of the fabric sections and for directmg the fold in the fabric past the first needle andacross the path of the second needle so that the superposed edge portions are secured by the rear stitching devices to one of said fabric sections, said mechanism including a folder plate having a depending rib extending alongside of the advance needle, a horizontally projecting portion extending in front for directing the fold of the rear needle, a bracket on which said folder plate is mounted, means for supporting said bracket whereby the same may be swung to a limited extent in a vertical direction, means for pivotally supporting said plate on said bracket whereby the same may be swung in substantially a horizontal direction, and yielding means for holding saidplate in set position on said bracket.
13. A sewing machine including in combination a Work support, independent overedge stitch forming devices arranged with their needles parallel and with one substantially in rear of the other, trimming devices located in advance of the front needle, a feeding mechanism including a main and an auxiliary feed dog having a differential feeding movement, a presser bar, a support- I ing head carried by said presser bar, a forwardly projecting supporting rod carried by said head, a bracket mounted on said head for limited vertical oscillation, a folder plate carried by said bracket and normally disposed alongside of the front needle and extending in front of the rear needle for forming a fold in the under fabric section and presenting the same to the rear needle, a presser foot disposed alongside of said trimming devices, means for yieldingly supporting said presser foot on said rod carrying the folder plate, a presser foot having independent yielding sections associated with the rear needle and carried by said supporting head, a presser foot disposed above the folder plate and alongside of said front needle, an upper feed dog, said upper feed dog and last-named presser foot being supported by said head and connected so that when one is raised the other is lowered.
14:. A sewing machine including in combination overedge stitch forming devices arranged with their needles parallel and with one substantially in rear of the other, means for feeding and directing fabric sections to said stitch forming devices so that the front needle passes through the superposed edge portions of the sections only while the rear needle passes through said superposed edges and into and out of one of said fabric sections for securing the joined edges to the fabric section, and a thread controlling mechanism for the needle thread of the rear needle including means for pulling thread from the supply on the down stroke of the needle and for giving said thread to the needle on its up stroke.
15. A sewing machine including in combination overedge stitch forming devices arranged with their needles parallel and with one substantially in rear of the other, means for feeding and directing fabric sections to said stitch forming devices so that the front needle passes through the superposed edge portions of the sections only while the rear needle passes through said superposed edges and into and out of one of said fabric sections for securing the joined edges to the fabric section, and a thread controlling mechanism for the needle thread of the rear needle including a tension for gripping the needle thread while the needle is in the fabric and for releasing the needle thread when the needle is on the upper part of its stroke, and means disposed between the tension and the supply for drawing thread from the supply when the tension is closed and means between the tension and the needle for drawing on the thread while the -11 needle is drawing up the previously formed loops.
In testimony whereof, I atlix my signature.
JOSEPH BERGER.
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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0173442A1 (en) * 1984-07-30 1986-03-05 Porter Sewing Machines, Inc. Double overlock seamer

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0173442A1 (en) * 1984-07-30 1986-03-05 Porter Sewing Machines, Inc. Double overlock seamer

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