US1855499A - Sleeve set - Google Patents

Description

April 26, 1932. s. E. TRAGLER SLEEVE SET Filed May 18, 1928 2 Sheets-Sheet l Grrokusy April 26, 1932. s. E. TRAGLER 1,855,499

SLEEVE SET fined May 1a, 1928 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 JAM-oz JJJTHIWJXE 75mm QZMM erro'n NEY the consequent. proper h-an Patented Apr. 26, 1932 tarts. s

STANLEY a. TRAGLER, OFLOS ANGELES, cnmronma f SLEEVE sn'r j Application-filed May 18,

My invention relates to the tailoring art, being more particularly a of which a sleeve may; be marked or notched, enabling the operator to properly place the sleeve in thesleeve hole of a garment for the purpose of basting the same in place.

Ordinarily, in tailoring and the open end of the sleeveare irregular in shape and of unequal size, under which conditions it is, in common practice,'more or" additional difliculty in properly placing the sleeve in the coat for basting is the placing of the sleeve so that the sleevewill hang properly when finally sewed in place.

Due to the objections noted above,the operation of basting sleeves in the coat takes considerable time and in many instances the operation is performed several times before the sleeve is properly placed'in the coat.

The principal object of my invention is to produce a sleeve set of simple form and construction, by means; of which a sleeve may be marked or notched to correspond to marks or notches placed on the sleeve opening-Vin the coat, such corresponding marks insuring the proper placing of the sleeve inthe coat and when finished.

Due to the. venientmeans for readily determining; the

.circumference of the arm hole in a sleeveafter it is made up, nor are any means available forshaping a made up sleeve to conform to a specified circumference, the

sleeve set is provided with graduations'by.

means" of which the circumference maybe readily determined merely by placing the set upon the flattened sleeve in a manner as be hereinafter described.

These graduations may also be used in shaping the sleeve to'con-fo-rm to any'specified circumference.

device by means I the sleeve open ing in the body of a garment,-such.as a coat,

hole of the coat. r

' Fig. Sis a diagrammatic view showing the g of the sleeve will 192/3. Serial no. 278,777. z

' It will be understood that the spea a.

the sleeve need not necessarilyhave the" same" circumference as the arm hole in the garment," since the cloth in either the sleeve 01' the body of the garment may beea'sily stretched or takenin to give certain fullness or styleef ifeet, as will be understood by those familiar with the ar. hf-i- Other objects and advantages of in? vention will appear hereinafter from the fol i; lowing description and the appended claims."

Referring to the drawings, which-arelforillustrative purposes only," l Fig. lisa face view of a sleeve set embodying the preferred form ofmy invention.

diagrammatic view of the first Fig, 2 is a operation of a coat.

Fig. 3 is a diagrammatic view of the shoul der portion of the coat, showing the second notching of the sleeve hole of operationof notching the sleeve" hole.

Fig.4 a diagrammatic view of the shoul der 'portlonof the coat, showing the'manner, of'usin'g the set-to measure such sleevefopen; ing. 7 1 V Figs. 5 6-and 7 are diagrammaticiviews of a'sleeveillustrating diiferent operations of i i using the sleeve set to placenotchesthereon corresponding to the notches on the sleeve sleeve in the position which" it will normally py when ing worn. I

More" specifically descrlbing the embodi-f ment of myinvention, asillustratedin the I V drawings, the sleeve set generally indicated'at fact that tailors'have no" con 15cons1sts of a flat stick or handle portion- 16' and a transversestick 17 which, together} with the handle, forms in general outline-a cross. i

A straight line, such as indicatedby the dotted-line 18, runs through the intersection point designated at 19 of the upper or meas- 1 uring'edge 20 of the cross stick 17) and theme'asuring edge 21 of'the main stick 16 and throughthe forward orfrontcorner'22 at the lower edge of themain stick 16.;

1 It willbe noted that the measuring edge 21 of the main" stick l6 is'angu'larl'y disposed :with respect to the straight line 18, being 1O stick 16 above the central point 36 011 the coat forms the upperpoint, the

the bottom notch being arranged on the main" stick below the pivot or central point 19.

' It is tobe noted that the lowest mark of the scale 24 is, substantially half again as far above the intersection" point 19 as the corre spending highest mark on the bottom scale 25, such arrangementbeing for the purpose of allowing for the rounding of the sleeve Q over the shoulder on the upper part of the sleeve, .bearing in mindthat when the set is used, the sleeve is lying-fiat,.-consequently an allowance must bemade above the intersection point 19 for the extra material in the sleeve curving over theshoulderto theshoulder seam of the coat.

'. The cross or transverse bar is alsoprovided with scales 27 and 28, the scale 27 being designated the front notch scale, and the scale 28 Fig; lthat the graduations on all of the scales are numbered away from the point of inter} section 19 of the two sticks. In other words, in the form illustrated, the first graduation i of each scaleis positioned intermediate the intersection point and the end of the scale, and is designated by number 12. The remaining numbers increase consecutively-away from the point of intersection toward the {ends of the scales.

mFor the purpose of better understanding the sleeveset, the method-- of using the same maybe described as follows 1: The first operation performed is tomark the sleeve opening of the coat with a top notch. This may be done in several ways, but a simple manner of performing this operation. is to place one hand (as shown in F ig. 2) under thecen trail part of the coat at the back thereof, so that the coat is balanced in hanging on each side of the hand. Then by inserting the fingers of the other hand in the sleeve open points,

ing,the coat is again balanced at two thatis, at the backv ofthe collar and at the :top of the-sleeve opening.

VWhen he coat isbalanced, a mark by means of chalk or other suitable material, is placed on the coat at the sleeve opening where the same :is resting on the fingers, as illustrated,

at-30 in Fig; 2," which pointniay be desig- 'na-tedas the coat top notch 30.v v

As shown in Fig.3, the coat is then placed on the table. andfiattened out, with the-front of the-coat uppermost, so that the topnotch ,the rear: notch scale. It will be noted from' sleeve opening being open and the point of folding at the lower end of the sleeve opening being marked and constituting bottom notch With these marks inserted and placed on the coat as described, the operation of using the sleeve set may be followed out. As shown in Fig. 4, the coat is in the same position as shown in Fig. 3, the sleeve set being laid across the sleeve opening on the coat and the setmoved until corresponding number on thescales 27 and 28 coincide, the one on scale 27 with the bottom notch 31 of the coat, and

the one on the scale 28 with the top notch of the coat, but approximately three-quarters of an inch upwardly on the shoulder from such top notch,.to allow,;as indicated in dotted lines at 32, for seams. 7

.In the illustrations used, I have selected the numerals 26 as the corresponding numerals on the scales 27 and 28, and when the set is placed on the coat, as shown in Fig. 4, a point corresponding to a so-called front notch is selected on the scale one-half to three quarters of an inch inside the opening onthe dottedline 32, which, for the purpose of illustrating the numeral 18 on suchscale, is selected. Av rear notch is placed upon the'back of the armhole opening in a similar manner. These numerals 26 and 18 are the basis for thefnotching of the sleeves, andv the operation as indicated in Fig. 4 of the drawings may be considered the measuring operation;

With numerals 26, and 18 to work with, the numeral 26 being the length of the sleeve opening and the numeral 18 designating the width of the sleeve opening, the set is placed on the sleeve with the front, edge of the lower end or guide portion of the main stick tan gent to the front corner of the lower edge of the folded sleeve as shown in Fig. 6, the set being adjusted so thatthe mark 26 on scale 24 is at the upper edgeof the sleeve, and the numeral 18 on the scale 27 being placed at the front edge of the sleeve, the graduations on the scale areso arranged that in a normal sleeve, having a circumference equal to that of the arm hole in the coat, the numerals. 26 on scale 25 will fall on the lower front edge of the sleeve opening. If, however, the sleeve opening is smaller than-the coat opening, as in the caseillustrated, the numeral 26 on scale 25 will fall at a point slightly within the cut edge of the sleeve, as shown in Fig. 5. When the set'is in such position, a front notch isplaced on the sleeve as indicated at a anda rear notch and bottom notch are placed upon the sleeve as indicated at Z2 and 0 respectively. Thesenotches, as shown in Fig. 5, are placed upon the sleeve at points tangent to the respective scales 27, 28 and 25.

For the purpose of obtaining the top notch onthe'sleeve, a mark indicated at 34 is placed uponlthe sleeve in parallel relation tothe measuring edge 21 of the main stick 16. This mark extends from the upper right hand corner 35 of the sleeve downwardly to the horizontal scale 28.

The set is then swung in the direction of the arrow in Fig. 6, pivoting about the point 22' at the lower corner of the sleeve until the mark or graduation 18 on scale 28 is opposite the mark 34 as shown in Fig. 6. The top of the sleeve while in the position shown in Fi 6.

I Z shaping scale 36 may be placed upon the cross on transverse member 17 of the set, directly below the scale 28. The graduations on this scale are ofi'set toward the intersecting point '19 substantially three-quarters ofan arm hole opening of different circumfere ence than the opening in the coat) theswing ing movement of the scale, is necessary due such marks is lying flat, and when picked up the material, for instance suchas indicated at f and g in Fig. 6-moves inwardly to assume the proper shape as shown in Fig. 8. As was previously mentioned, this set was developed to provide a convenient means of rapidly determining the circumference in inches of the arm hole in the sleeve, merely by placing the set upon the sleeve in a manner such that the graduations at which diametrically opposite scales fall upon'the edge of the sleeve opening are the same. The circumference of the opening is the arithmetic mean of the readings upon the vertical and horizontal scale. Take, for instance, the

sleeve shown in Fig. 7, on which -the.longitudinal scale readings are 24and 24and the transverse scale readings are 20 and 20, the circumference of this sleeve will be or 22 inches.

Although the shapes ofsleeveopeningshave no regular geometric form, they are more or less uniform and this means of determining the circumference, which has been developed largely through experimentation, has been found .to give results of consistent accuracy greater than the industry demands.

notch d is placed upon the sleeve by 6 making a mark tangent to scale 24 at the top to the fact that the sleeve, when receiving In the" preferred embodiment of this. in vention whereby most satisfactory-results are obtained, the: longitudinal: measuring member .21 is oifset at substantially 10 from astraight line 18 passing through the trans verse measuring edge 20 at right anglesithereto. Corresponding divisionson the transverse edge- 20 are spaced-"equidistant with gra'duationnumber 12 substantially two and one-eighths inches from the intersecting point 19 and the distance between the graduations is substantially five-sixteenths of an inch. The bottom graduation on the top' scale 24 is one and seven-eighths inches above the intersection point 19, and the top gradu a-- tionon scale 25 is substantially one and oneeighth inch below-the point 19, and the distance between the graduations on these scales is substantially nine thirty-seconds of an inch. v j I Itis tobe understood that the circumference measuring feature of this sleeve set is restrictedto a construction following more, 1

or less specifically this formillustrated, but for the purpose of obtaining the aforementioned notches, the spacing and numberingof the. graduations may be varied without afi'ecting the operation, or the results obtained with the instrument.

I claim as my invention; r

1. A sleeve set for garments comprising:

a main stick; a cross stick attached to said main stick, said main stick and said cross stick having intersecting scale edges there being-identical graduations indicated on all of. said scale edges on opposite sides of the point of intersection, the distance from one of the initial graduations on the main stickto the point of intersection being substantially:

one and one half times the distance from the other initial graduationon said main stick to said point of intersection.

2. A device for measuring the circumferenceof arm hole openings in sleeves when" said sleeves are in a flattened position which embodies: atransverse member; a longitudimember at an angle of substantially 80 with said transverse member, said members being provided with scale sections positioned on opnal member mounted upon said transverse:

posite sides of the "point of intersection be-.

tween said members.

3. A device-for measuring the circumferience of arm hole openings in sleeves when said sleeves are 1n flattened pos1t1on which embodies: a longitudinal member; a transverse member fixedly mounted thereon at an angle of substantially 80 therewith, both of said members being provided with graduated scale sections formed on opposite sides of the point of intersection of said members, the respective scale sections on one of said members having their initial correspondingly numbered graduations equidistant from said pointof intersection, andthe initial gra dutions of the scalese'ctions on the-other of said -men1bers beingunequally spaced from: said;

point; ofintersection il -the ratio of substantially one andonehalf towone. I} In testimony-whereof, I' have hereuntqset m-yhand-atLos Angeles, california this 11th day 0'May,.192s. f V

4 STANLEY E; TRAGLER;

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