US1773955A - Adjustable garment form - Google Patents

Description

Aug. 26, 1,930. M G. CQUTURE 1,773,955

ADJUSTABLE GARMENT FORM Filed March 8, 1929 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 .4 Wr-1- i f7 THE-r. a 1

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AUS. 26, 1930- M. G. COUTURE 1,773,955-

'ADJUSTABLE GARMENT FORM Filed March 8, 1929 4 sheets-sneer s v Y lr` 5 49 42 49 Jd @vi/tuus Aug. 26, 1930. M. G. COUTURE l 1,773,955 ADJUSTABLE GARMENT FORM ,Filed yMarch 8,v 1929 4 Sheets-sneer 4 Qmwaeowcm,

Patented Aug. 26, 1930 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE ADJUSTABLE GARMENT FORM n Application filed March s,

The invention relates to improvements in forms used by dressmakers and others in tailoring various kinds of garments, partiev ularly dresses, skirts and trousers.

It is the principal obj ect of the inventionto provide a generally improved and simplified adjustable form which may readily be set to reproduce the figure of any person for whom a garment is to be made.

It is a further object of the invention to provide a form which lends itself admirably to adjustment by means of a measuring harness of the type embodied in my U. S. application Serial No. 345,573, filed March 8, 1929.

Yet another object is to provide a form which is readily usable in the setting of a pattern cutting harness of the type disclosed in my U. S. application Serial No, 345,575, filed March 8, 1929.

With the foregoing and various specific objects in view, the invention resides in the novel subject matter hereinafter described and claimed, description being accomplished by reference to the accompanying drawings.

Fig. 1 is a front elevation of a form constructed in accordance with my invention.

Fig. 2 is a side elevation.

Fig. 3 is a detail perspective view of the arm length measuring strip, a portion of which is seen in Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is a vertical sectional view on line 4 4 of Fig. 2.

Fig. 5 is a vertical sectional View at right angles to Fig. 4, as indicated by line 5 5 of Figs. 1 and 4.

Fig. 6 is a horizontal sectional view on line 6 6 of Fig. 4 showing thel expansible hip band and the adjustable frame therefor.

Fig. 7 is a horizontal sectional view on line 7 7 of Fig. 4 illustratingthe base frame for the skirt portion of the form.

Fig. 8 is a horizontal sectional view on line 8 8 of Fig. 4 showing the expansible neck band and its adjusting means. y

Fig. 9 'is ahorizontal section on line 9 9 of Fig. 4 showing theexpansible arm-hole bands and their mounting and adjusting means.

Fig, 10 is an enlarged vertical section on line`10 10 of Fig. 9, showing the construc- 1929. Serial No. 345,574.

tion of and the adj usting means for one of the arm-hole bands, in detail.

Fig. 11 is a detail perspective view of the portions embraced by the bracket 11 of Fig. 4 (the adjustable connection and belt guide provided for upper and lower sets of resilient strips hereinafter described).

Fig. 12 is a horizontal sectional view on line 12-12 of Fig. 5 illustrating the expansible bust band and its adjuster.

Fig. 13 is a View similar to the lower portion of Fig. 4 but showing the skirt portion of the form removed and illustrating the manner of using the form when fitting trousers.

Fig. 14 is a horizontal section on line 14- 14 of Fig. 4'showing primarily the vertically adjustable skirt or dress length band.

Fig. 15 is a perspective view of the portions embraced by the bracket 15 of Fig. 4

(the means for adjustably connecting the Ldress or skirt length band with vertical strips of the skirt portion of the form),

Fig. 16 is a detail longitudinal sectional view, and l Fig. 17 is a transverse section on line 17 17 thereof, illustrating a form of adjustment which may be used wherever desired in the form.

Figs. 18 and 19 are similar views showing a different adjustment which may be elnployed wherever advisable, Fig. 19 being cut on line 19 19 of Fig. 18.

Fig. 20 is a detail elevation of a portion of the hip band provided with one form of adjustment which may be employed if desired.

Fig. 21 is a sectional view on line 21 21 of Fig. 20.

For illustrative purposes, the form of construction herein illustrated will be specifically described, with the understanding however that within the scope ofthe invention as claimed, numerous variations may be made. It may be further explained at the outset that when manufacturing the form, con-v spicuous identifying numbers will be suitably aixed to the various parts and a book of explanations will be furnished referring to the uses of all parts by means of their fil respective numbers. 'lhese numbers are omitted from the disclosure to prevent confusion with the reference numbers necessary in the following description.

In the drawings above briefly described, Q5 denotes an appropriate base to which is secured a central upstanding post 26. A U-shaped frame Q7 is provided with a central bearing Q8 which is rotatable and vertically adjustable upon the potl 26, a set screw 29 beingr provided for locking said bearing to the post whenever desired. The vertical side members 30 of the frame 27 are provided at or near their lower ends with upwardly taeing shoulders 3l upon which sleeves 23:2 normally rest, said sleeves slidal'ily though rather snugly surrounding sa id side members 30 and project-ing up *ardly above them. Rods 33 are received in the upper portions of the sleeves 32 and set screws iet are shown for locking these sleeves to said rods, so that the latter and the subjaeent parts co-act in forming two supporting legs each having three sections, that is, the lower section St), the upper section 33 and the central tubular section 3:2. These legs support the entire body portion of the form hereinafter described and vertical adjustment of said body portion may be effected either by vertically extending or retracting said legs, by vcrtically adjusting the bearing 28 upon the post 26, or by employing both of these adjustments. Preferably, however. the adjnstment is effected by properly setting the legs rather than vertically adjusting the bearing 28, the primary use of this bearing beingl to permit rotation of the entire form whenever desired.

The adjustable legs above described. are secured at their upper ends lo a hip band frame 35 whose construction is best seen in Figs. 4, 5 and (3. This frame and numerous other portions of the form. in the construction herein disclosed'A embody well known pipe fittings, and such details of construction either may or may not be used in the actual manufacture of the form, as may be mest desirable. As the various pipe fittings or connections shown are conventional and form no essential parts of the invention, they will be ignored in the description rather than uselessly prolonging the latter.

Frame 35 embodies four extensible arms 36 which may be held in adjusted jgiosition by set screws 37. The outer ends of these arms Carry an eXpansible hip band 3S and the connections between band and arms preferably embody headed studs or the like 3E) Whose outer ends are imitrmnental in attaching a skirt portion hereinafter described.

A vertically extensible. central standard 4() rises from the frame 3.'. In the construction shown, this standard eml'iodies a lower section or rod 41 secured to the frame 35, a

central section l2 slidable upon. the section il and provided with i set screw 4:3, and an upper section stil slidable upon the upper extremity of the section 42 and provided if desired with au set screw 45.

The upper end of standard Lt0 is provide( with extensible arms 4G (see 4i, 5 and 8) whose outer ends carry an e) posible neel,7 band 47, set screws i8 being shown for helding said arms 11G in adjusted position.

T he central standard section 4t2 provided with two lateral extensible arms #i9 (see Figs. 4 and 9) said arms 45) being themselves provided with short extensible arms which. carry exjiiansiblc armhole bands Arms 5() may be provided with set screws for holding them in adjusted position. For adjusting the arms fi-9, prefer to employ two dmvnwardly converging links 53 pivoted to the outer ends of said arms and pivoted also to a sleeve 54 which is slidable upon the central `andard section 42. This sleeve is seen in Figs. 4 and 5 and from the latter a set screw 55 will. be observed for holding said sleeve in set position.

Extensible shoulder plates 5G are connected loosely with the lower edge of the neck band 47 and with the upper portions of the armhole bands 51. t the outer edges of these arm-hole bands. a plurality of inwardly turned hooks 57 will be observed, which hooks are accessible at the outer sides of the bands. These hooks are of advantage when fitting the measuring harness of application Serial No. 345,573 upon the form and adjust- ,ing the latter according to measurements which have been taken from the individual by means of said nieasuring harness. Then too, when setting the pattern-cuttiiig4 harness of application Serial No. 31,175,575, by apply" ing this harness to the previously adjuster-l form, the hooks 57 are instrumental in hold-- ing` the shoulder ptni'tions of the. harness in proper position. Fiirthermore, a loop 5G at the. upper end of ar sleeve length measuring strip 59 (Figs. l and maybe engaged with any of the hooks 57 for advantageous use. This strip is provided with suitable `graduations (50 and with an adjustable arm length slide (31 which may be set as desired.

Under the arm-hold bands 5l and suspended by the latter, an expansible bust band (i2 (see Figs. 4, 5 and 12). This bust band is provided with a f I.vardly and rearwardly extensible :nljuster (tf-l having a guide (14 which floats or is freely slidable upon the central standard section 42. above described. Set screws are sho\ Yn for holding the front and rear portions of the adjuster 63 in the necessary positions to produce the desired shape at the back and the bust of the form. The adj uster (S3 connected to the bust band G2 by fasteners which may have heads 63a lyingl slidably against the outer sides of eer lll) lllt? tain of the narrow strips 7 2 hereinafter described.

A plurality of wide spring strips 70 have their upper ends loosely connected at 71 with the neck band 47 and the shoulder plates 56,.and similar but shorter stripsV 70a have their upper ends secured at 71 to the bust band 62, immediately below ears 51a which depend from the arm-holer bands 51 and are secured to said bust band. The various strips 70-702L are shown most clearly in Figs. 1 and 2, although they appear also, in Figs. 4 and 5 and a number of the horizontal sec` tional views. Each of these strips is longitudinally split with the exception of its upper end, to produce a multiplicity of nai` row spring strips 72 which are disposed in pairs, said strips 72 preferably being downwardly tapered somewhat.

A lower' set of wide spring strips 73 are secured at their lower ends to the hip band 38 by appropriate fasteners 74, and each of these strips is longitudinally split with the exception of its lower end to provide relatively narrow spring strips 75 kdisposed in pairs. The upper ends of these strips 75 are adjustably connected with the lower portions of the strips 72 and for the details of the connecting means, best results will be obtained by reference first to Fig. 11. Before referring to that View, however, it may be explained that an adjustable belt 76 is provided for inwardly springing the connected strips 72-75 to produce the desired waist line.

Referring now to Fig. 1l, it will be observed that a. vertically elongated sheet metal plate 77 is disposed at the outer side of the belt 7 6- The lower end of this plate is bent inwardly and upwardly as at 78 and is secured to a pair of the strips 75, by rivets or lthe like 80. Not only does the portionv78 form means lfor attaching 'the plate 77,to these strips 75, but this plate portion 78 coacts with the major portion of said plate in forminga guide .for the belt 76. The upper end of plate 77 is bent inwardly and downwardly Vas shown at 81 and is formed with a slot 82. The lower portions of the strips 2 overlap each other, that is the strips of each pairoverlap each other, and these overlapped portions passslidably through the slot 82, the lower ends of said strips 72 extending downwardly at the yinner sides of the strips 75. The lower extremities of the strips 72 are provided with appropriate stops 83 which prevent` any possibility of pulling these lstrips entirely out of the slots 82 when adjusting the form. There are of course as many of the plates 77 as there are pairs of strips 72 and pairs of strips 75, and as the belt 76 is engaged with the belt guides associated with all of these plates, the form may be drawn inwardly to effectively produce the desired lwaist line.

A skirt portion is provided for co-action with the body of the form when desired. This skirt portion is shown in both elevations, both complete vertical sections (4 and 5) and details of it are seen in Figs. 7, 14 and 15. This skirt portion embodies an eXpansible base band 84 and a plurality of vertical spring strips 85 secured to and rising from said base band, the latter being always adapted to rest upon the floor. Each strip 85 is provided substantially throughout itslength with a slot 86 and the upper portion of this slot is enlarged somewhat as seen at 87 to permit passage over the headed stud or the like 39 above described, thereby slidably connecting the body of the form with the skirt portion and permitting detachment of said skirt portion if it is not needed, for instance, when using the form to fit trousers rather than ladies apparel.

A dress or skirt length band 88, of expansible nature, crosses the strips 85 and may be set at any desired height. The strips 85 are preferably provided with graduations 89 assisting in setting the band 88, yand this band may itself be provided with other graduations 90 for facilitating setting thereof to produce the proper perimeter for the lower end of the skirt or dress. Unique connecting means are provided between the band 88 and the strips` 85, said connecting means being shown vin detail in Fig. 15 to which reference is now invited.

A vertically elongated sheet metal plate 91 has its intermediate portion disposed at the inner side of the band 88, the upper end of this plate being bent downwardly at 92 around the upper edge of said band 88, this downwardly bent portion 92 being preferably although not necessarily bifurcated. The lower end 93 of plate 91 projects downwardly below the lower edge of the band 88 and lies against, the inner side of the strip 85. A collar 94; jointly cn'ibraces the plate end 93 and the strip 85, and a clamping bolt 95 passes through said collar vandplate end and through the slot 8G. lien this bolt isv loosened, vertical adjustment of the band 88 is permitted and this bandv may be locked in adjusted position by tightening of said bolt.

As above stated, when trousers are. being fitted upon the form, the skirt portionof the latter is detached. Fig. 13 shows such a conversion of the structure and illustrates the trousers in dotted lines. This view also illustrates the manner in which the two supporting legs (composed of the sections 50-,- 32-33) may be manipulated one at a time to permit placing of the trousers legs around them. It will be seen from this view thatthe set screw k34tof one of the legs has been released and the central section 32 of'this leg has been slipped upwardly entirely upon the upper leg section 33 thereof, and so held by again tightening the screw 34. lVth this setting of parts, the body of the form may be horizontally swung to move the upper section 33 and the section 32 thereon, out of alincment with the exposed lower section 30. This permits passage ot one of the trousers legs over the raised section 32 and the upper section 33 upon which it is secured. Then the entire form may be returned to its former position and the section El; again lowered around the section ill). This having been done,` the set screw 311 is again tightened. All of this saine procedure may now be repeated with the other leg oi the, form to place the other trousers leg around it. lVlien either sleeve or the like $32 is raised and the form is to he horizontally swung. the. pivot tor such swinging is formed by the leg section 32 of the other leg and the leg section 3() within it, the former then resting upon the shoulder 31.

By providing the novel construction shown and described. a form is provided which is rather simple and inexpensive, yet will be efficient and desirable from all standpoints, said form being capable of such adjustment as to duplicate any figure within reason. Most ofthe adjustments will be clear without any more specific explanation than that above given. However, particular attention is invited to the way of adjusting the form tor either long or short waisted persons. This adjustment is obtained by loosening the set screw 4143 and vertically sliding the parts l2-49, etc.. with respect to the belt 76.

Excellent results are obtainable from the general construction shown and described and such construction may be followed if desired. However, attention is again invited to the fact that numerous variations may be made. In this connection. attention is directed to Figs. 16 to 21 inclusive showing ditlerent details`r ol adjustment, any or all of which maybe used in the construction of the form. according to the dictates oi'V the manufacturer.

In Figs. 1G and 17. two telescopic sections are shown locked together in a. releasable manner by a set screw 9G threaded through the outer section and engagii'ig a rougheued surface 97 on the inner section. This rough surface and the eontactii g portion of the outer section are preferably of tlat torni to overcome possibility of relative turning ot the two sections.

In Figs. 18 and 1S), the telescopic sections are provided with (zo-acting flat portions and a pin or screw 98 may be passed through an opening in the outer section for reception in any of a plurality of openings or sockets 99 in the inner section.

In Figs. Q() and 21. an adjustment is shown designed primarily for use at the outer ends ofthe arms 36 of the hip band frame The outer arm section is threaded into the inner section and is rotatably connected with the hip band 38, being provided with a socket 10() for engagement by a removable hand crank or the like 101 for effecting any desired adjustment.

It may also be mentioned that the entire form may be provided with a vertically and horizontally yieldable or elastic covering of fabric, rubber or other desired material, over coming slight rmevenness which would otherwise be presented to the garment litted upon the form (see dotted lines 102 in Fig. 5).

I claim 1. An adjustable form comprising an adjustable supporting frame, an expansible neck band and two expansible arm-hole bands mounted on said trame, extensible shoulder plates connecting said neck band and armhole bands, an expansible bust band and supporting means therefor, wide vertical spring strips longitiu'linally split except at their upper ends to provide narrow strips whose intermediate portions lie slidably against the outer side of said bust band, said wide strips being connected at their upper ends with said neck band and said shoulder plates, an expansible hip band mounted on said trame, additional wide vertical spring strips connected at their lower ends with said hip band and longitudinally split except at said lower ends to form additional narrow strips, means slidably connecting the upper ends of these narrow strips with the aforesaid narrow strips, and a belt for inwardly springing the connected narrow strips between the bust and hip bands to form the waist line.

2. An adjustable form comprising an adjustable supporting trame, an expansible neck band and two expansible arm-hole bands mounted on said frame, extensible shoulder plates connecting said neck and arm-hole bands, an expansible bust band and supporting means therefor, wide vertical spring strips longitudinally split except at their upper ends to provide narrow strips whose intermediate portions lie slidably against the outer side of said bust band, said wide stri ps being connected at their upper ends with said neck band and said shoulder plates, an cxpansible hip band mounted on said trame, additional wide vertical spring strips connected at their lower ends with said hip band and longitudinally split except at said lower ends to Jform additional narrow strips, the upper ends ot these narrow strips being provided with belt guides and with guides through which the lower ends of the iirst .named narrow strips pass slidably, and a belt engaged with said belt guides for inwardly springing the connected narrow strips between the bust and hip bands to form the Waist line.

3. An adjustable form comprising supporting means, a hip frame secured to said supporting means and having horizontal extensible arms, an expansible hip band conlull lll)

projecting from said upper standard section j and an expansible neck band carried by these arms; extensible arms projecting from said central standard section and themselves having short transverse extensible arms; expansible arm-hole bands carried by said short arms and extensible shoulder plates connecting these bands with said neck bands; an expansible bust band having an expander slidably engaged with said central standard section, and a vertically extensible horizontally expansible form-producing covering operatively related with said bands and shoulder plates. Y

4. An adjustable form comprising supporting means, a hip frame secured to said supporting means and having horizontal extensible arms, an expansible hip band connected with said arms; a lower standard section secured centrally to and rising from said hip frame, a central standard section having a tubular portion adjustable vertically upon said lower section, and an upper standard section adjustable vertically upon the upper end of said central section; extensible arlns projecting from said upper standard section and an expansible neck band carried by these arms; extensible arms projecting from said central standard section and themselves having short transverse extensible arms; expansible arm-hole bands carried by said short arms and extensible shoulder plates connecting these bands with said neck band; an expansible bust band having an expander slidably engaged with said central standard section, an upper set of wide spring y strips connected at their upper ends with said neck band and said shoulder plates, said strips being longitudinally split except at said upper ends to provide upper narrow strips whose intermediate portions lie slidably against said bust band; a lower set of wide spring strips whose lower ends are secured to said hip band, said lower strips being longitudinally split except at said lower ends to provide lower narrow strips; means slidably connecting the upper and lower narrow strips, and a belt for springing the connected narrow strips inwardly to produce a waist line.

5. An adjustable form comprising an expansible hip band and an adjustable supporting frame therefor, a vertically extensible central standard secured at its lower end to said frame, an expansible neck band and adjustable means connecting it with the upper end of said standard; extensible lateral arms projecting from said standard near its upper end, two expansible arm-hole bands and adjustable means connecting them with said arms; an extensible bust band suspended from said arm-hole bands, an extensible adjuster for said bust band supported by the latter-,and having a guide slidable on said standard, andV vertically extensible. horizontally expansible shape-producing means operatively related with the parts aforesaid. j G. An adjustable body form having portions for reception in arm-holes of a garment, and inwardly turned hooks on-said portions spaced about the exterior thereof.

7. A structure as specified in claim 6; to-

gether with a measuring device having-a loop engageable with any of said hooks.A

8. An adjustablebody form having portions for reception in arm-holes of a garment, a garment arm-measuring device, and means for detachably connecting said measuring device with either of said form portions rat any of various points spaced around the latter.

v 9. vAn adjustable form comprising a base, a form having twoy supporting legs for reception in trousers legs, said legs being connected withsaid base and having portions movable out of their normal positions to permit positioning of the trousers legs around them.

l0. An adjustable form comprising a base, a form having two supporting legs for reception in trousers legs, said legs being connected with said base and each comprising an upper section, a lower section, a sleeve section surrounding said upper and lower sections and slidable from one to the other, and securing means for said sleeve section.

11. An adjustable form comprising a base, a short central post rising therefrom, a U- shaped vertical frame having a central bearing rotatable on said post, sleeve slidable on and projecting above the side members ot the frame, rods whose lower ends are received in the upper portions of said sleeves, releasable means for securing said sleeves to said rods and for permitting sliding of either sleeve entirely onto the rod associated therewith, and a form supported by said rods.

12. In an adjustable form, a relatively wide spring strip longitudinally split except at one end to provide relatively narrow spring strips and a. comparatively wide attaching portion at one end ol said narrow strips.

13. In an adjustable form, pairs of lower narrow spring strips, guides to which the upper ends of said strips are secured, one guide being allotted to each pair of strips, and upper pairs of narrow spring strips allotted one pair to each of said guides, the lower portions of the strips of each upper pair being overlapped slidably and having their overlapped portions passed slidably through the guide allotted thereto.

14. In an adjustable form, a` vertically elongated sheet nietal plate having its lower end turned laterally and upwardly to provide a belt guide and a portion for attachment to the upper end o'l a lower strip, the

5 upper end of said plate being bent laterally in the same direction and slotted to slidably receive an upper strip.

15. In an adjustable form, an expansible base band to always rest upon the floor, strips 10 secured to and rising from said base band, said strips having means` at their upper ends facilitating slidable Connection thereof with a body form, an expansible skirt length band crossing said strips, and vertically adjust g5 able means connecting said skirt length band with said strips.

16. In an adjustable forni, a vertical longitudinally slotted strip, a band at one side of said strip, a vertically elongated sheet 2u metal plate whose intermediate portion lies against one side of said band, one end of said plate being bent around one edge ot the band, the other end of said plate being extended. away from the other edge of said band and 2a lying against one side of said strip; a collar jointly surrounding said other plate end and the strip, and a clamping bolt passing through said collar and said other plate end and through the slot of the strip.

:w 17. In an adjustable form, lower strips, guides to which the upper ends of said strips are secured, upper pairs of narrow spring strips allotted one pair to each of said guides. the lower portions of the strips of each upi per pair being overlapped slidably and having their overlapped portions passed slidably through the guide allotted thereto.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto at'- fixed my signature.

MARIE G. COUTURE.

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