US1772178A - Method of making welting - Google Patents

Description

g- 1930. w. .1. FALLON, JR I 1,772,178

METHOD OF MAKING WELTING Filed March 5. 1929 20 22 24 //v VEN TOR 11 H g; 2 81? pm ATTORNEY mmi'imgu.

Patented Aug. 5, 1930 UNITED STATES WILLIAINLJ. FALLON, .13., -.OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS mn rnon OF MAKING WELTIIN'G Application filed March 5, 1929. Serial no. 344,322.

The present invention relates to improvements in welting and method of making the same.

Welting for boots and shoes is commonly made of expensive high grade leather, and it is important that the leather stock be cut to give the greatest possible yield of welting of the desired strength, width and thickness.

The present invention therefore relates to a method of manufacturing welting whereby the amount of welting that may be secured from a given quantity of leather stock may be materially increased.

The present invention in one of its aspects resides in the method of forming welting which consists in providing two pieces of welt stock each of which is wedge-shaped in cross section but one of which is wider than the other, forming a bevel on the thick portion of the narrower of the two strips, and then securing the wedge-shaped strips together so that the thin edge of the wider strip overlies and is firmly secured to the bevel of the narrow strip.

As a result of this construction the thin, overlying lip is so positioned that it is not likely to'be disengaged from the beveled portion of the underlying strip, and the lip will also be engaged by the inseam stitches passing through the welt and shoe upper.

The two wedge-shaped pieces of welt stock are formed in accordance with a further aspect of the present invention by splitting a piece of stock diagonally by an inclined cut that forms an acute angle with a face'of the stock and also by a vertical cut that reduces the width of one diagonal split portion and provides the other diagonal split portion with a projecting or overhanging lip. The two diagonally split portions are then secured together in laterally shifted relation to produce a welt strip of increased width but slightly decreased thickness. I

The present invention further contemplate-s the method of making two welts from a strip of stock which consists in severing the stock so that the small strip that is removed from one welt in forming the usual bevel remains attached to the other welt forming strip. Through this expedient the small strip of stock removed in forming the bevel upon one welt is utilized to increase the width of the other welt.

A further feature of the present invention resides in the method of severing a strip of stock to form therefrom two st-ripsof welting having a combined width that is greater than the width of the stock from which they are cut.

The invention in its various aspects will be best understood from the following description when read in connection with the accompanying drawings showing welting constructed in accordance with the present method. v

In the drawings,-

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a'strip o welt stock;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view showing the stock of Fig. 1 severed by a vertical'cut and a diagonal cut; I

Fig. 3 is a perspective view showing the strips produced by the vertical and diagonal cuts, disposed in spaced relation 1 to each other;

Fig. 4 is a vertical sectional view showing the diagonal split pieces of-stock of Fig. 3 assembled to form a strip of welt of in-' creased width;

Fig. 5 is a perspective viewshowing a further step in completing the formation of welt out of the parts shown'in Fig. 4; and

Fig. 6 is a transverse sectional view through a portion of ashoe provided with the welting of Fig. 5. p v

In carrying out one application of the method of the present invention a stripof leather stock 10 is provided and the width of this stock may be less than the combined widths of the two strips of welt formed from this stock, in accordance with thepresent invention. The stock 10 is severedbyan inclined cut 11 which is formed at an acute angle to a face of the stock, as will be apparent from Fig. 2. The stock 10 is also severed by a vertical out 1-2, these cuts being so positioned that they produce a strip of welting 13 having the bevel 14 as shown in Fig. 3, so that it'is merely necessary to form the stitch receiving groove 15 in the strip of welting 13 the cuts 11 and '12 are sopositioned that a projecting lip 18 is provided on the upper wedge-shaped strip l6which extends beyond or overhangs the smaller wedge-shaped strip 17 as will be apparent from Fig. 2.

The diagonally disposed cut 11 serves to' utilize the small strip that is removed from the welting 13 in forming the bevel 14 and also to split the strip of welting diagonally to form the wedge-shaped strips 16 and 17 which may be/shifted laterally with relation to each other to increase the width of the welting, as will be apparent from Fig. 4.

When the two wedge-shaped strips 16 and,

17 are assembled in laterally shifted relation to each other, as shown in Fig. 4, to increase the width of the welt thus formed, it is important, that the lip or feather edge 18 be firmly secured to the strip 17 so that it is not likely to become disengaged therefrom,

and this is accomplished, inaccordance with the present invention, by providing the wedge-shaped strip 17 with the bevel 19 formed so that it will lie directly below the lip 18, as will be apparent from Fig. 4.

After the parts 16 and 17 have been placed in engagement with each other in the, manner shown in Fig. 4 to bring the bevel 19 below the lip 18, these parts are firmly secured together by adhesive or the like and the lip 18 is firmly secured to. the bevel face 19, as will be apparent from Fig. 5. This arrangement serves not only to direct the lip downwardly so that the pressure of the shoe upper 20 upon the lip, when'the welting is secured in place in a shoe, willhelp to hold the lip against the bevel 19, but also places the lip 18 so that it will be engaged by the usual row of stitches 21 employed to bind the welting and shoe upper to the inner sole 22. The construction shown in Figs. 4 and 5 has the further ad-.

vantage of providing that. portion of the strip 17 which has the greatest thickness in position to receive the usual stitch receiving groove 23, as will be apparent from Fig. 5, so that ample stock is provided at this pointto Withstand the strain or pull exerted thereupon by the inseam stitches 21.

Whenthe composite welt of Fig. 5 is secured in a shoe,- as shown in Fig. 6, the row of stitches 21 helps to bind the lip or feather edge 18 to its underlying strip 17 as above pointed out, and it should also be noted that the usual row of stitches 24 commonly provided to secure the outer sole 25 to the welting will serve to bind the wedge-shaped portions 16 and 17 firmly together to prevent these parts from separating.

It will be seen from the foregoing that the width of the composite welt strip 16, 17 is increased an appreciable amount by shifting the parts 16 and 17 relatively to each other from the position they occupy in Fig. 2 to the position they occupy in Fig. 4, and as a result of this construction the sum of the width of the two strips of weltformed from the stock 10 will be greater than the width of-the welt stock 10 of which these two welts' are formed.

In some cases it may be desirableto employ only so much of the above described 7 method as is necessary to produce the composite welting shown in Fig. 5, in which case p it is not necessary toform the welt13 inorder to secure the wedge-shaped strips 16 and 17, sinceother expedientsmay be employed for producing these wedge-shaped strips in order that they may be combined in the man-- ner disclosed in- Figs. 4 and 5. It will therefore be seen that, if desired, only so much of the method herein disclosed need be employed as is necessary to form the composite welting 16, 17 from two pieces of welt stock, or the entire method may be employed to produce two strips of welting having a combined width that is greater than the width of the stock from which they are cut.

It willzbe apparent from the foregoing that when the wedge-shaped strips 16 and 17 are shifted laterally with respect to each other to increase the width of the strip of welt they. produce, the thickness of the Welt thus producedwill be decreased, but thisis not neces sarily objectionable since the thickness: of. the welting desired is frequently less than that of the leather stock from which the welting is cut, and when this is the case it has. been customaryheretofore to skive or shave off the flesh side of the leather stock to reduce the leather to the desired thickness, thus resulting in a waste of the leather stock. Through the method of the present invention this waste of stock isavoided and the excess thickness of the leather stock is utilized. to increase the width of the welting.

While the method of the present invention has beendescribed herein as applicable to welting, it will be apparent that it'may also be carried out in the manufacture of narrow belting.

What is claimed is 1. The method of making two welts having a combined width greater than that of the strip of stock from which they are out, which includes the steps of: severing the strip of stockby a vertical cut and an inclined cut extending diagonally through one of the welts and through a sufficient portion of the other welt to provideabevel thereupon and-at the same time, form an integral lip upon the first welt out of stock removed by the inclined cut from the second welt, and then securing the diagonally split portions of the first welt together in laterally shifted relation to increase the width of the welt.

2. The method of making two weltsfrom a strip of stock which includes the steps of severing the strip of stock by a vertical cut and an inclined cut extending diagonally through one of the welts and through a sufficient portion of the other welt to provide a bevel thereupon and at the same time form an integral lip upon the first welt out of stock removed by the inclined cut from the second welt, and then securing the diagonally split portions of the first welt together in laterally shifted relation so that one diagonally split portion extends outwardly under said lip.

3. The method of forming welting which includes the steps of severing a welt forming strip from a piece of stock by a vertical out and an inclined cut formed at an acute angle to the face of the stock to provide an integral tongue projecting from the welt forming strip, and passing the inclined cut entirely through the welt forming strip to split the same diagonally, and then securing the diagonally split portions of the strip together in laterally shifted relation so that one portion thereof extends outwardly under said lip.

4. The method of forming welting which includes the steps of providing two pieces of welt stock each wedge-shaped in cross section but one of which is wider than the other, beveling the thick portion of the narrower of the two strips, and securing the wedgeshaped strips together so that the thin edge of the wider strip overlies and is attached to the bevel of the narrower strip.

5. The method of forming welting which includes the steps of providing two pieces of welt stock each wedge-shaped in cross-section, beveling the thick portion of one wedgeshaped strip, and securing the wedge-shaped strips together so that the thin edge of one strip overlies and is attached to the bevel of the other strip.

6. The method of producing welting, which comprises severing a strip of stock by a longitudinal cut extending diagonally through the entire thickness of the stock to form simultaneously a bevel upon one corner of a welt strip and a strip that is wedgeshaped in cross-section and which has an integral lip formed of stock removed in producing said bevel, and further severing the strip of stock by a longitudinally extending vertical cut formed to meet the diagonal cut and produce a second strip that is wedgeshaped in cross-section.

7. The method of producing welting, which comprises severing a strip of stock by a longitudinal cut extending diagonally through the entire thickness of the stock to WILLIAM J; FALLON, J

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