US1767255A - Method of producing rear vents for unlined garments - Google Patents

Description

June 24-, 1930.

J. P. O'BRIEN METHODOF PRODUCING REAR VENTS FOR UNLINED GARMENTS Filed Feb. 11. 1929- Patented June 24, 1930 UNITED STATES PATENT, OF ICE! JOHN e. onninn, or cnIcAGo, refiners vm'rnon on rnonucrne REAR vnnrsgron me es eanivrnnrs j V Application filed February 11, 1923. Serial No. 338,950.

This invention relates to an improved method of producing rear vent for unlined or skeleton garments. Heretofore unlined or skeleton garments having vents required pieces of reinforcing material on: the inner side of the 'garment, to bestitched tov the vent sections and to the body of the: garment, after which the reinforcing pieces would have to be covered by a piece of finishing material. The old method of providing vents for unlined garments resulted in the applying of strains to one of the back sections of the garment, causing ripping or tearing at the point where the reinforcing material has been stitched to the backsection. The ripping and tearing at the particular point where the reinforcing material has been stitched to form the vent weakens the garment at the particular point long before 2 the garment shows any signs of wear in other places. conditions, this invention relates to an improved method of. providing rearivents for unlined or skeleton garments without requiring the use of any stiffening or reinforcing pieces other than'a strip of finishing material made out of the lining and applied in such a way that no. strain is applied to the back sections of the skeleton garment.

It is an object of this invention to. provide an improved methodof producing a'vent in unlined garments by applying a combination reinforcement. and finishing strip .in such a manner that strains are not applied to the sections of the garment between which the vent is formed. 1 7

It is also an object of this invention to provide an improved method of producing a vent in an unlined or skeleton garment by 40 applying a finishing strip of material-on v the interior of the garment at the point of intersection of the end of a seam and the end of avent formed between sections of the the vent underlay strips and to the center seam inlay strips to causethe finishing strip to serve as a reinforcement without securing the finishing strip to the sections of the garment thereby relieving the sections of strains when pulllng or other forces are applied to To obviate the above-mentioned the sections ofthe-garment in whichthe ventis formed.

It is a further object of thisinvention'to provide an improved method of furnishing a vent in an unlined or skeleton garment by applying two garment sections, one upon the other, and bypositioning one endof a finishing strip upon one ofsaid-s'ections and then sewing the seam uniting the sections-and ineluding in said sewing one end of'the finishing strip, after whichthe seamed inlay strips are opened and theyfinishing strip is bent over the vent underlay strips, and the seamed inlay strips with said finishing strip stitched tothe inlay strips of the vent-and the seam to'reinforce the vent :at the point of inter? section of the seamand' the vent. :5 i

It is furthermore an object of this invention to provide an improved method of producing a vent in an unlined garment by withthe seam of the garment sections and then opening up the seam andstitching the reinforeingstrip to the inlaystrips of the seam and to the underlay strips of the vent section. without stitching the reinforcing or finishing strip to the sections forming the garment in which the vent is produced.

ishing strip to the vent underlays and the seam inlays and slightly tacking the finishing strip totheinterior of one of the gar- .ment sections and. omitting any connection between the finishing strip and the other sec- ,lZlOI'lTOf the garment to' obviate any strain being applied to said section of the garment. garment by stitching the finishing strip to Other and further important objects of this inventionwill be apparent from the disclosures in the specification and the accompanying drawings.

The'invention (in a preferred form) is and hereinafter seaming in one margin of a reinforcing strip lUU On the drawings:

Figure 1 is an interior elevational view of a fragmentary portion of an unlined garment illustrating the finished reinforced vent section produced by an improved method embodying the principles of this-invention.

Figure" 2 is a slightly enlarged fragmentary plan view of two superimposed garment sections and a finishing strip stitched thereto illustrating the first ste'pin the method of producing a garment vent and furthermore illustrating'in dotted lines the second position of the finishingstrip; I

Figure 3 is a plan view of the fragmentary portions of the superimposed; garment sec tions turned over from the positionillustr'ated in Figure 2 arictillustraiting in dotted lines the third position 'of the-reinforcing strip and also illustrating in dotted lines one of the seamed-ifilay strips bent" over and pre'ssedinto position'beneaththe dotted line position of thefinishing strip. 'Figuret'is a planyiew of"the interior of the garment 'sectio'n' with the seam opened up and'the seain'inlay'sections stitched to the finishing strip :which is also stitched'to one of the underlay strips forming the vent sec tionof tl1'e*garment. 2 r Figure 5 is an enlarged detail section taken on line V'V of Figure through the upper portion of the reinforcing strip where it is attached to the end of the seamed inlay secti i== 1 as an'enl'arged detail section taken online VIVIof Figure 1 through the lower portion' of the-reinforcing strip where it issti'tchedto one-'ofthe overlapping underlay sections formingtlieventof the garment. Asshowntn'the drawings V The 'referenc'e numerals 1 and '2 indicate "bacl'i'sect'ionsof an unlined or'skel'eton garment. The garment section 1*alo1ig onelongitudinalmargin thei'eo'f is provided with a cutout or'notch 3toafiord'aseam inlaystrip 4 anda'ventunderlay strip 5L The seam inlay strip 4 has I an outer margin 'thereo'f bent over and stitchedt'o form a hem The 'trated in "Figure8f The vent inlay strip 9 has th'longitudinal margin thereof bent ever and stitche'd to form a seam 11, andthe outer margin "of the vent underlay" strip 10 is ben ov'e'r'and stitched' to form aseam 12. k

The improved method consists of placing the two garment section's-1 and 2"with the ou'ter faces thereof abutting one-another with the section 'l ly'ing uponsectionfl as-illus trated in Figure 2. A reiirforcing strip-of finlshing materlal 13 1s placed face down transversely upon the back surface of the garment section 1 as illustrated in Figure 2 and the longitudinal margins of said rein-- forcing strip 13 are bent over to form hem strips 14. The ends of the reinforcing strip 13 are left raw: One end of thereinforcing strip 13 projects beyond the 'seam v.line to The three pieces of material are now turned over into :the position illustrated in Figure 3."The upper portions of the've'nt! underlay strips 5 and 10 are now stitched transversely from point 18 to 19 through the reinforcei in'e'nt strip 13 and-is' fastened well. at the point-*ISQ "Theseam inlay strip 9 is now out diagonally along the line;20' above. the corner offthe notch 8 toxthe point 16 as clearly illustrated in Figure 3. i i The'eenter sea-minlay strip 9-is now bent over along the seam 15 into the dotted ;line position illustrated in Figure'3, thereby opening'the center seam. The reinforcing-strip is 'no w'bent over and creased-along the line-=91! and the' raw endw margin of the reinforcing strip-1'8 is bent 'over tosprovide a finished -e'n'd 22. The "reinforcing: strip 13 nowefurnishe's' a complete covering for the intersection of the .vent portion and the lower end of the seamtsection of:the -garment.- :The up per 'edge'of-the reinforcing strip 13 is now stitched across the seanr inlayi strip 4 from the points 23 to Q Pa-nd saidstitching is'cont'inu'e'd across the seamediinlay strip :9 from the point' 24 'to the point 25. The remainder of the upper 'edge of the: reinforcing strip 123 is i now i lightly :stitchedf: along :the 1'line 25-2426 t'othel inner side :ofz the garment-back "section 2 The finished edge 22iof thezreinforcing strip 13 is now stitched't'o the inner faceg'of the garment section "2 :along the line --26 27.' The lower longitudinal finished edge 0fthe-reinforcing strip 13 isi'now stitched fro'm -the point 27 to the: poi11t 28 with the stitching going through the two overlapping underlay strips 5 and lO and through :the portions of the reinforcing strip 13 which are dispos'edabove and below-the twosuperimthe upper edgeofthe two overlapping por ti'onsof the-reinforcing strip 13 arestit'ched "together from the point 29 to; the point 23 to 'c-lose the vent in that portion of the rein forcin'g stri'p. 1

With the reinforcing strip stitched in posi- "-posed underlay strips. From the point'529,

tion as hereinbefore described,the garment section 1 is now removed from beneath the garment section 2 into the position illustrated in Figure 1 and the garment ispressed along 5 the seam line 15 and continuingalong'the line 'providing a crease between the garment section 1 and the vent underlay strip 5. The reinforcingstrip 13 which covers the intersection of the garment vent with the lower end of the center seam 15 is entirely free ofathe garment section 1 so that any strains applied to the vent portion of the garment are not transferred to the garment section 1 but terminate in the strongest part of the vent reinforcement along the line 1819 where the stitching penetrates through four layers of the garment to form a very strong seam transversely across the upper end of the vent underlay sections 5 and 10.

While the invention is described as pertaining to the rear vent of an unlined or skeleton garment such as a mans coat or overcoat, it:

will of course be understood that the improved method may be applied in the forming of reinforcement at any vent provided in other portions of garments or in similar articles.

It will of course be understood that many changes may be made and'numerous details of construction may be varied through a wide range without departing from the principles of this-invention, and it is therefore not purposed limiting the patent granted hereon otherwise than necessitated by the scope of the appended claims.

I claim as my invention: a

1. The method of producing a reinforced vent for unlined garments, said method consisting of placing two notched garment sections with the outer surfaces of said sections superimposed one on the other to provide seam inlay strips and vent underlay strips,

laying a piece of reinforcing material transversely across the inner face of one of said sections and then securing the two sections and the piece of reinforcing material together by a single seam stitching, then bending the strip of reinforcing material over along the line of the seam stitching and stitching another portion of the reinforcing section through the two underlay strips forming part of the garment section, then cutting one of the inlay strips of the seam and pressing open said seam, after which the reinforcing strip is bent over on itself to cover the lower end of the seam inlay strips and the upper end of the vent underlay strips and finally stitching the edges of the reinforcing strip to the seam inlay strips, the vent underlay strips, and to the inner surface of one ofsaid garment sections only.

2. The method of producing a vent for an unlined garment, said method consisting of seaming together two sections of a garment to a certain point at the junction with a ventsection to provide seam inlay strips and vent underlay stripsand securing oneend of a reinforcing stripin'said seam and bending said strip over theend of the seam and the end of the vent section and stitching the margin 1, of the reinforcing strip to theseam inlay and I vent underlay strips andto one of said garment sections only. 7

r 3. The method of producing a ventfor an unlined garment, said method consisting of stitching one margin of a reinforcing strip togetherwith the seam stitching of a pair of garmentsections up to a point overlapping theinner end of a, vent section to form inlay strips and vent underlay strips and then bending over the reinforcing strip and stitching the margins thereof to theseam inlay strips andthe vent underlay strips and to the inner face of one ofsaid garmentjsections only. 4. The method of producing'avent for an unlined garment, said 'method consisting of seamingtwo sections of a garment together .to a point to which a vent is to start to provide underlay strips and securing one marginof a reinforcing strip to said sections by the seam switching and then stitchmg a portion of another margin of said reinforcing strip across the overlapping underlay strips of the g'arment'sections after which the reinforcing strip is bent over upon itself to cover the intersectionof the garment seam and the vent thereof and finally stitching the margins ofthereinforcing strip to the inner face of one ofsaid garment sections only. a V

5. The method of producing a vent for an unlined garment, said method consisting of placing two garment sections face to face and laying a reinforcing str1p across one of said garment sections and then seaming the two garment sections and the strip of reinforcing material with a single seam stitching to provide overlapping seam inlay strips and vent underlay'strips and bending the to the inner face of one of the garment sections only. v v

6. The method of producing a ventin an unlined garment, said'methodconsisting of laying two sections of a garment face to face and then laying a finishing strip transverse' ly across the inner face of one of said garment sections and stitchingthe two garment 51nd finally "s'titchih g the n'largifn of the fijnishln stl lp bo one garment seetlon 0111 to ohvi gai'hi eht at the ijnfueise'ction of a seam and siipefirh iesed gin'one another fclmsea -med inlay strips pressed against he yespecti'v 'garhiht sections, and a finishing and 'i'einforcing strip stitched 111 With the g'zi r mehtis'eam anddlso stitched trzinsversly j'of the vent undeflay strips 3 and the seamed 'te st rai hs behi'g Applied t6 'the other

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