US1742221A

US1742221A - Sewing machine

Info

Publication number: US1742221A
Application number: US177513A
Authority: US
Inventors: Roseman Leo
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1927-03-23
Filing date: 1927-03-23
Publication date: 1930-01-07
Anticipated expiration: 1947-01-07

Description

Jan. 7, 1930. L RosEMAN SEWING MACHINE Filed March 23.' 1927 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR. L e o Rose www,

ATTORNEY Jan. 7, 1930. l. RosEMAN 1,742,221

SEWING, MACHINE ,Filed Maron 25. 1927 4'sheets-sneet 2` INVENToR. ,Zeolosewa/w,

Jan.- 1, 193m L.ROSEMAN.

SEWING MACHINE Filed March 23. 1927 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 HVVENTOR. 'eORa-S'em/a'h() ATTORNEY Jan 7, `i930- L. RosEMAN 1,742,221

SEWING .MACHINE Filed Marchas'. 1927- .4Ysheets-sheet 4 A TTORNEY.

edges of the garment with hook` Patented" Jan. 7, 1930 muri-:D 4s'l'a'ras PATENT yori-ICE LEo RosEMAN, oENEwAnK, NEW JERSEY SEWING MACHINE Application mea March 23, 1927. serial No. 177,513.

In the manufacture of womens undergarments it is customary to provide the meeting and eye fasteners. Such hook and eye fasteners are sometimesprovided in `the form of hook or eye tapesso prepared that the hook or eye fasteners per se, as thev case Vmay be, are secured to a carrying tape in desired predetermined longitudinally spaced arrangement,

with the operative ends' of the fasteners exteriorlyproject, when said posed while the hase portions thereof arey concealed by a fold or covering portion with which the tape is provided. In the manufacture of such`.l1ook and eye .tapesthe body the tape and the `fold or covering portion are sewn together in such manner that openings are provided through which the operativeA ends of the hooks or eyes may exhooks or eyes are '20 inserted in the tape ordirectly sewn thereto.

In other cases, the hooks or eyes mav be sewn directly to agarment edge in still other cases either a fastener tape or the garment edge itselfmay be constructed and sewnin such manner as toprovide a pocket forming strip bordering the garment edge opening and having, at desired spaced intervals, pocketlike openings serving in the place of metal eyes, functioning to receive the engagement of hook fasteners provided' in connection with the opposite garment opening edge.

It t-hepri'ncipal object ofjthis invention tofprovide an improved' construction of sewing machine which is vespeciallyxadapted i for use in the manufacture of fast-ener tapes, or the4 -"manufacture of fastener structures i incnnection with garments, of the"Y kind. andfinlthe manner above'referredtol" Iylii'sinvention'` has for a further object to providea novel construction of sewing ina-f chine adaptedy to formel-)y continuous foperafV directly tions, stitching including .transverse reenforcing barfstitfches as :well'sfotherspecial' l, .forms of Stitches at proper lplazcesin connecf" tion `,u-"itli'a fastener structi'ue'to' he proi* ducedj the novel machine being;adaptedAforVV automatic operation` withoutnioreattention uponthe part` of the ,operator fthantliat off vgeneral slipervisioiu'so tliatla s1nglefoperatorv vcan look lafter anuml'ier` of. suchy machines,

showing a fing machine head 12,

being required merely to see to it that materials are properly supplied thereto and that normal operative' conditions are maintained. Other objects of this invention, not at this time more particularly enumerated, will he clearly understood from the following `detailed description of the same.

The invention is clearlyillustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a front side elevation of a :l sewing machine made according to and em bodying the principles of Y Figure 2 is a top plan view of the same;` Figure 3 is a longitudinal section, taken on l1ne 3 3 in Figure 2; and Figure 4 is a transverse section, taken on line 4-4 in Figure Q. Figure 5 is a fragmentary end elevation struction of work advancing rollers, with which the machine is provided.

Figure 6 is a-fragmentfary transverse section, showing a modified arrangement and construction for automatically controllingV the operation of the work advancing rollers of the machine;v Figurev 7 being a fragmentary sevction'of the same, takenon line 7-7 in said Figure 6.

Figure 8 is a plan View of a fastener tape showng a form of stitching adapted to he vention.

Similar characters of reference are ein ployed in allrof the hereinabove described views. to indicate corresponding parts.

Referring first to Figures 1 to 4. inclusive of the accompanying drawings, the reference vproduced `hy the sewing machine of this inthis invention modified arrangement and concharacter 1() indicates a hed-frame upon i` which `is secured the hase-plate 11 of a sew.;`

usual arm 13v at the free end of which is' Iarrangedtlie reciprocatingneedle bar 14 and spring'tensioned presser foot 15,1 thesame Vbeing actuated trointhe'main shaft 1G, which 'extendsf lthrough said way'. The needle bar l4fis provided at its l arm 13 in the usual lowerend with the customary sewing ma.- chine needle 17, which cooperates with any well known form of shuttle mechanism loicated beneath the hase-plate 11.

In advance of the sewing needle and the latter havin-g the y made'to the eye nism of the machine,

` nism including the openings to presser foot there: is rovided any suitable orm of material gui e, as e, g. the channel Ende-plate 18 andthe auxiliary guide memr 19, which in this case, are respectively adapted to guide a tape body and a cover strip to the sewing mechanism of themachine.

To illustrate the 'general character of stitch formin operations automatically performed by t e machine, reference may tape illustrated in Figure 8 of the drawings. This eye tape comprises a body -member A overlying which is 'disposed a cover strip B, the latter to be sewn to the former in such manner as to leave unmatched rtions to provide openings through w ich the operative end of an eye fastener C may extenorly project, while the base of the same is concealed between the body A and cover strip B. The sewing to be producedis in theform of a continuous line of stitching a`which includes, at each side of be formed, transverse reenforcing bar stitches b and intermediate off-set stitches c.

In practice t `e tape body A and cover strip B are respectively led to the sewing mechain proper relation one to the other, as they respectively pass through the guides 18 and 19.

The movement of the tape body A and cover strip B, whereby the same are advanced past the. sewing needle 17 so that the desired arrangement of stitches is produced, is accomplished by means of a feed roll mecha# a novel means for producing both normal intermittent feeding movements ofthe feed rolls as well as periodic intervals of rest thereof during which the transverse bar stitch forming operations may be carried on.

In the form shown in Figures 1 to 4 inclusive of the drawings, the feed roll mechanism comprises a feed-roll drive shaft 20, journaled in

suitable bearings

21 and 22 so as to be disposed in a plane beneath the base-plate 11 of the sewing machinehead and rearward of the sewing or needle mechanism of the machine. Fixed on said drive shaft 2() so as to be properly aligned with the sewing or needle mechanism of the machine is a lower feed roll 23. Vertically movable in connection with the slideway of a. suitable supporting frame 24 is a bearing member or block 25 in which is journaled a,spindle 26 upon which is fixed an upper feed roll 26 adapted to cooperate with said lower feed roll 23. Intermediate the bearing member 25 and the u er end of said supporting frame 24 is an a )ustable compression spring 27 to normally thrust said upper feed roll 26 into cooperatige relation to said lower feed roll 23.' Means are provided for raising said upper feed roll from contact with said lower feed roll to permit the insertion therebetween of i whereby, upon proper the work to be advanced by the operation thereof. This means comprises a suitably sha ed lift-lever 28 which cooperates with a lift stud 29 on the bearing member 25, manipulation of the lever, the latter may be raised against the tension of the spring 27. Mounted in a bearin 30 is a drive spindle 31 aligned with said spindle 26'; said spindle 31' and 26 being coupled by a universal coupling device 32 adapted to permit of the lifting of said spindle 26 during the feed roll separating operation. Said spindle 31 is driven from the drive shaft 20 by intermeshing

gears

34 and 33 with which the same are respectively provided.

'Ihe means for intermittently driving the feed-

rolls

23 and 26 lto progressively advance the Work so as to produce the normal stitches a comprises, in one form, the following transmission mechanism, which is operated from the main shaft 16 of the machine. Supported by a suitable bearing 35, in 'connection with a suitable bracket or frame-ieee 36, is a shaft 37 extending rearwardly fiom and at right angles to said main shaft 16, the latter driving the former through intermeshing bevel gears 38 and 39, with which said shafts are respectively provided. Fixed on the outer end of said shaft 37, s o as to be rotated thereby, is a drive worm 40 so designed as to transmit intermittent motion, to this end the threads of said drive worm being parallel through a portion of their cycle of rotation.

Gonnectedwith said bracket or frame-piece 1 36 is a vertical bearing member 41 in which is'journaled a vertical spindle 42. Fixed on the up er end of said spindle 42 is a pingear w eel 43 to rotate in horizontal plane.

aid pin-gear Wheel is provided with a plurality of upwardly extending pins 44, arranged in an annularly spaced row, so as to be operatively engaged by the drive worm 40, as is clearly illustrated in Figures 2 and 3 of the drawings. These pins 44 extend through the body of the wheel 43 and are dctachably secured thereto by set-screws 45, so that when worn the same may be easily rcmoved and replaced. Fixed on the lower cud of said spindle 42 is a male-coupling member 46. Connected with said bracket or framepiece 36, so as to be aligned with and sitn uated beneath said bearing member 4l, is another bearing member 47 in which is journaled a second spindle 48. Fixed on the upper end of s aid spindle 48 is a female-coupling member 49 which cooperates with the male-coupling member 46 of the spindle 42; thearrangement being such,.that although said spindle 42 ttransmits rotary motion to said spindle 48 through the cou .ling members 46 and 49, nevertheless the atter members permit of independent vertical longitudinal movement of said spindle 42 at proper times. Secured on the lower end, of

described.

said spindle 48 is a worm 50 `which meshes with and drives a worm-gear 51- on said feedroll drive shaft 20, Whereb yoperative motion is transmitted to` said eed-rolls 23 and 26. As will be understood from an inspection of the drawings, when the pin-gear wheel 43 is in normal lifted position to be engaged by the worm-drive 40 an intermittent motion will be transmittedto the feed-

rolls

23 and 26, whereby the work is alternately advanced and stopped in its progress past the sewing mechanism of the machine to produce the normal stitches 1L of proper length and number. y

In order to permit the formation, by the sewing mechanism of the machine, of the transverse reenforcing bar stitches Z) the intermittent-motion of the feed-rolls 23. and 26 must be entirely arrested at propertimes, to hold the work stationary or against advance while the latter stitches are being formed. This operation is accomplished by automatically disconnecting t-hc drive worm 40 and pin-gear wheel 43, while the barstitch operation of'the sewing mechanism is carried on through the agencies subsequently The properly timed interruptions of the operation of the feed-roll transmission is controlled by the following means:-

Journaled at one end in the arm 13 of the sewing machine head 12, and at its other end in a bearing support 52, is a transverse shaft 53. This shaft 53 is driven from the main shaft 16 at a proper relative speed by means of a worm 54 and gear 55, as indicated in Figure 1. Fixed on and driven by said trans- `verse shaft 53 is a cam-wheel 56 which is pro vided witha cam-race, comprisingv a main liftsection R, a first drop-section D, a second drop-section D, and between said drop-sections an intermediate lift-section R. Pivotally mounted or fulcrumed on the supporting frame 24 is ay bell-crank lever 57, to the upper arm 58 of which is pivoted one end of a link 59, the opposite end of which is forked, as at 60, to straddle said transverse shaft 53 so as to be supported thereby adjacent to said cam-wheel 56. The lower arm of said bellcrank lever 57 is formed to provide a yoke 61 to embrace the body of said male couplingmember 46 of the spindle 42, the same having an annular groove 46 to receive the engagement of cooperating studs 62 carried by the in said cam-race of said cam-wheel 56, is a stud which is preferably in the form of an anti-friction roller'63.` In operation, while the feed-

rolls

23 and 26 are being actuated by the intermittentl drive of. their above-described transmission mechanism, the stud of the link 59 rides in the main lift-section R of the cam-race, whereby the link 59 is held outwardly thrust, to swing upward the bellcrank lever 57 and thus holding the spindle ,by the latter is The rocking lever 65 possesses a arms of said yoke 61. Mounted on the Side, of said link 59, so as to operatively engage tively engaged.` When, however, the barstitches b are to be formed on opposite sides 42 in normal lifted of an opening in the tape or other formof work adapted to receive the fasteners C, the

-timed rotation of the cam-wheel 56 carries the first dropysection D of its cam race into engagement with the'stud of the link 59 wherepulled inward to swing downward the bell-crank lever 57, thus causing the spindle 42 to be drawn downward, thereby to disengage the pin gear wheel 43 from the drive-worm 40, so that operation of the feed rolls 23 and 26 is arrested. After the first group of bar stitches b are formed, operation of the feed rolls 23 and 26 is caused to resume, as the stud of the link 59 is engaged by the intermediate lift-section R of the race of the cam-wheel so as to operate the bell crank to lift the pin gear wheel into engagement with the drive-worm, whereby the work is advanced to position the same for the formation of the bar stitches b on the opposite side of the formed fastener receiving opening, and thereafter the'second drop4section D of the race of said cam-wheel 56 operates to shift the link 59 to again disconnect the pin gear wheel from the drive worm so that the movement of the feed-

rolls

23 and 26 is again arrested during the formation lof said latter group of bar stitches. The abo'vefdescribed operations ofthe feed-rolltransmission and control mechanism are automatically continued during the running of the sewing machine.

The means for' producing the transverse reenforcing bar'stitches b comprises the following devices l A' A The `needle. bar y14 is pivoted at 64 to the re- I ciprocating mechanism (not`shown), where! by l1n addition to its normal vertical reciprocating movements, it is also` capable of a transverse swinging or oscillating movement. By producing properly timed oscillations of the reciprocated needle bar the transverse bar stitches b are formed. The means for effectmg such timed oscillations ofthe needle bar 14 comprises a rocking lever 65 which is pivoted upon the arm- 13 of the sewing machine head 12. Said lever 65 is interconnected with the needle bar 14 b'y a link connection 66u slotted free end 67, whereby the connection of the link 66 thereto may be adjusted to increase or decrease at will the length of stroke transmitted by the rocking lever, and thereby increase or decrease the arc of 14 to determine' the length of the bar stitches bito benroduced. Said rocking-lever 65 is provide adjacent to its free end, with a stud 68, preferably in the form of anti-friction roller (see Figures 1 and 2). Fixed on the sewing of the needle bar i outer end of the transverse shaft 53 is a camfore follows that, after one stitches b are formed, the needle-bar must be periphery with a first set of circumferentially spaced cam-proj ections- P and a second set of similar cam-projections P', intermediate whichextends an oil-setting cam-projection O, all properly spaced and grouped relative to the entire circumference of the cam-wheel 69, so asto properly time the operations of lthe needle-bar 14 in the performance of its functions in automatically producing the several forms of stitches desired. The said camwheel 69 cooperates, through the stud 68 with the rocking lever to actuate the same, said rocking-lever and associated parts being Ayieldably maintained in operative relation to the circumference of said cam-wheel by means of a suitably connected and anchored pull-spring 70, as shown in Figure 1.

As has already been indicated above, the cam-wheel 69'functions to oscillate the needle bar 14 to produce the bar stitches b in timed relation to the periods of dwell or inactivity of the feed rolls 23 and 26.

In order to produce the fastener receiving openings or pockets in the tape or other form of work, and between the defining spaced groups of bary stitches b, and at the same time permit of a continuous stitching or sewing operation by the sewing mechanism of the machine, cover strip B of the tape body A, or equivalent element in other types of work, the stitching must be off-set from that portion of the edge of the cover-strip B lying between the groups of bar-stitches, so as to pass only through the tape body A leaving such portion of the cover-strip B disconnected from the tape body A whereby the intermediate desired opening is provided. It theregroup of barheld shifted in outwardly off-set relation to the cover-strip edge, while at the same time the tape or other work must be advanced to produce the desired off-set stitching c. To this end the cam-wheel 69 is provided with the olf-setting cam projection O intermediate the groups of cam projections P and P', the same being eifectiveto hold the needlebar 14 in required outwardly off-set position As heretofore. explained, while the needle-bar is held in the required off-set position, the lift section R of the cam-wheel 56 operates to engage thev pin gear wheel 43 and drive worm 40 so that the feed rolls 23 and 26 are actuated to advance the tape or otherwork to produce the desired off-set stitching c. The said off-set stitching may comprise stitches of normal length corresponding to the stitches of the stitching a. It is sometimes desirable to form said oil-set stitching as a jump stitch of abnormal length. In the latter case means are provided adapted to accelerate the advance of the tape or other work past the 5 needle-bar -14 beyond that produced by the normal feeding movement of the feed rolls -work passes.

-the pull-plate 71.

23 and 26. Such means, in one form comprises a pivoted pull-plate 71'situated between the feed rolls 23 and 26 and the needlebar 14, and over which the tape or other Normally this pull-plate 71 lies flat, in which position it is inactive, but at proper times it may `be swung upwardly, thereby exerting a quick pull upon the tape or other work which accelerates the movement of the latter past the needle-bar 14, and results in the production of a comparatively long stitch as shown ato in Figure 8. The latter operation is indicated by dotted lines in Figure 4 of the drawings.- The means for producing properly timed actuation of the pull-plate 71 comprises a roek-shaft72 journaled'in bearings 73 beneath base-plate 11 of the sewing machine head (see Figure 1') and secured on said rock-shaft 72 is a lever-arm 74 tothe free end of whichis connected a thrust finger 75. A torsional spring 76 yieldably holds said-leverarm 74 and rock-shaft 72 in normal initial position. The rockshaft 7 2 is actuated by a lever 77 pivoted to a support on the base-plate 11, and connected through a link 78 to a lever 7 9 fixed on said rock-shaft. Said lever 77 is provided at its free end with anl up-turned or lip-standing extension 80 provided at its extremity with an anti-friction roller- 81 which yieldably bears against a cam-wheel 82 (see Figures 1 and 2) adapted to produce properly timed operation of the rock-shaft 72, and through it Said cam-wheel 82 is mounted on and rotated by said transverse shaft 53.

In connection with machines made according to the instant invention, attachments may be provided 'which operate to insert the fasteneis C into the tape or other form of work, after the same is stitched, so that the operative portions of said fasteners extend through the openings formed therein. In order to hold the tape or other work subject to such fastener insertion operations, the machine may be provided with a second set of feed rolls rearwardly of the feed rolls 23 and 2G through which the tape or other Work is passed in such manner that the saine is held sufficiently taut, between the two sets of feed rolls, to admit of the fastener insertion operation. To this end there is provided, in connection with the bed-frame 10, bearing

members

83 and 84 in which is journaled a shaft -85. This shaft 85 is driven from the drive shaft 20 through a transmission shaft 86, which is operated by intermeshing

gears

87 and 88 from the shaft 20 to drive the shaft 85 through intermeshing gears 89 and 90. Fixed on said shaft 85 so as to be aligned with the feed-

rolls

23 and 26 is a feed roll 9L Vertically movable in connection with the slideway of a suitable supporting trame 92 is a bearing member or block 93 in which is journaled a spindle 94 upon which is lixed an upper feed roll 95 adapted to cooperate with lower feed roll 91. Said upper feed roll 95 is maintained in operative relation to said lower feed roll 91 by means of an adjustable compression spring 96. the upper feed roll 95 carried thereby is driven from the shaft 85 by intermeshing gearing 9 7. Means are provided Yfor raising said upper feed roll 95 from Contact with said lower feed roll 91 to permit the insertion therebetween of the work to be advancedby the operation thereof; said means comprising apivoted liftlever 98 which coo erates with a lift stud 99 on the'b'earing mem er 93.

Carried by the bed-frame 10 so as to extend between the two sets of feed rolls is a supporting plate 100 upon which the fastener in serting mechanism (not in this case shown)- may be mounted so as to cooperate with the tape or other work as the same moves between said sets of feed rolls. When fastener inserting means are employed, the second set of feed rolls 91 and 95 is driven at a slightly higher speed than is the first set of feed rolls a 23 and 26, but the -tension exerted by the j compression spring vin connection with said second set should be less than that exerted by the compression spring of the first set, to the end that the tape or other work is kept taut, and the excess "speed of said' second set of rolls is compensated for by slippingon the4 l work. 4

The arrangement of the feed rolls maybe varied in different types of'machin'es dei signed however in accordance with this in-V Y vention to perform simllar stitching opera-1 tions. For example, the feed-

rolls

23 and 26 may be alone used, the second set of feed rolls being omitted. Again it may vbe desirable to provide a set of feed rolls, in addition to the feed rolls 23 and 26,l butin advance of the sewing mechanism. One form of the latter arrangement is illustrated in Figure of the accompanying drawings. In this arrange-` ment, an advance set of feed-

rolls

101 and 102 is supported in' suitable bearings 103, so that the outer feed roll 102 is tensionally moved into engagement with the inner feed roll 101 by anadjustable compression sprmg means 104. Said rolls are co-operatively driven by intermeshing gears 105 and 106, and are actuated lby a transmission shaft 1.07 driven from the drive shaft 20through intermesh- ,ing gears 108 and 109, and in turn driving.

said

rolls

101 and 102 through intermeshing gears 110 andlll. Thework is drawn from thematerial supply by the advance rolls 1 01 and 102, and thence delivered through a sultable guideway means .112 to and beneath a flat spring presser foot 113 in thc path ofthe needle-bar 14; the work being progressively and operatively advanced past said needlebar 14, substantially in the manner already above described,by the pull of the feed-

rolls

23 and 26. The machine as thus arranged Said spindle 94 and? mechanism,

ference thereof. rIhe .shaft gear' wheel is provided with a drive ypinion 131. Connected with said 4bearing means 127 may be utilized to stitcha fastener tape by the continuous special stitching the same or similar to that above described, and at the same time stitch the tape to a garment, the latter being fed through a guide 114 provided in connection with the guideway means 112. When the last described manner, an automatic work starting device ma be employed. This lat-l ter; device, in one orm may comprise a pivotally mounted stop-arm 115 having' at its inner end a depending stop-finger 115' which is, whenlowered, disposed in the path of a succeeding garment, but which, is timed to rise out of such-path to permit the advancefof such succeedmg garment upon completion of a preceding-garment. The said stop-arm 115 may be automatically 'controlled by a cam-wheel 116, whichcooperates with the tail of said stop-arm, said cam-wheel being driven from one of the advance feed roll shafts. v

In Figures 6 and? I have illustrated a modified form of means for both intermittently driving the feed-rolls 23 and 26andl at proper times interrupting the operation thereofwhile the bar-stitches are being formed. In this modified form lof such I provide a'suspended bearing frame 117 having at its upper end yoke-arms ,118 by which it may be mounted on the main shaft 16 of the sewing machine head so as to swing transversely therefrom. lThe lower end of said bearing frame 117 is provided with a lateral extension or arm 119, which extends beneatha cam-wheel 120 mounted on and driven by said transverse shaft 53.l Said cam-,wheel 120 is provided in its circumferen- A tial portionwith a suitably shaped cam-race 121 into which extends a stud 122 carried by sailiextension or arm 119, said stud being preferably in the form of an .anti-friction roller. Mounted for rotation in said suspended bearing-frame 117 is a substantially vertical spindle 123 which isdriven from saidl main shaft 16 through intermeshing gears 124 and 125.` Fixed on the -lower end of said spindle 123 is a suitably shaped drive worm 126. Mounted in bearings .127, onthe baseplate 11 of the sewing machine head, adjacentK to said drive-worm, is a pin-gear wheel 128, the'pins in properly spaced relation from the circum- 130 of said pinis a bearing bracket 132, on the journal stud 133 of which-'is'rotatably mounted an idler gear 134. This idler gear 134 meshes with Vand Iis drivenby the pinion 131, and at the same time meshes with and drives the gears 135 which operate the feed rolls 23 and 26. In operation thevnormal intermittent actuation ofthe feed rolls 23 and 26 is produced while the cam-wheel 120 operates to swing inwardly the bearing frame 117 to thus hold the drive worm 126 in mesh with the pin gear wheel 128. When it is required to interrupt the operation of the feed rolls 23 and 26 to permit of the formation of the transverse bar stitches, the cam-race 121 of the camwheel 120 functions to swing outwardly said suspended bearing frame 117, thus separating said drive worm 126 from drivingrelation to the pin glear wheel 128. In order to prevent'over-t row or displacement of the pingear wheel 128 anddevices operated thereby, when said drive-worm is separated therefrom, said bearing-frame extension 119 is' provided with a suitably shaped depending check-finger 136, which enters between adjacent pins of said pin gear wheel, thus holding t e same both immovable and in proper position to receive reengagenient of said drive worm 126 therewith at the proper time. One advantage of this modified form of feed roll actuating and control means lies in the fact that ratio of intermittent movement transniitted to said feed rolls may-be easily'altered by substituting various sizes 134 intermediate the pinion 131 and feed roll gears 135. By so doing the speed of movement of the feed rolls may be varied to produce correspondingly varied lengths of normal stitches a, as will be understood.

I am aware that various changes may be made in the general arrangements yand combinations of the several devices and parts, as well as in the details of the construction of the same, Without departin from the scope of this invention as describe in the following s ecification, and as defined in the appended c aims. Hence, I do not limit this invention to the exact arrangements and combinations of the various devices and parts as set forth in the fore oing specification, nor do I confine mysel to the exact details of the construction of said parts as illustrated in the ,accompanying drawings.

I claim 1. In a sewing machine having a stitching means adapted to produce both longitudinal and transverse stitches, intermittently rotated feed rolls for advancing the work relatively to the sewing mechanism of the machine to form longitudinal stitching therein, means to automatically interru t the operation of said feed rolls and thereby stop the advance of the work to hold same stationary, and meansfto actuate said stitching means for the production of transverse stitching while the work is thus held stationary.

2. In a sewing machine, sewing mechanism includn a needle bar adapted for both verticalreciprocation and lateral oscillation, intermittently rotated feed rolls for advancing the workA relatively to said needle bar to form progressive stitches, n'eans to automaticall interrupt the operation of said feed rol to stop the advance of the work,

of idler-v gears and means for oscillating said needle-bar to form transverse stitches while advance of the work is thus arrested.

3. In a sewing machine, sewinvr mechanism including a needle bar adapted lfior both vertical reciprocation and lateral oscillation, feed rolls, transmission means to intermittently rotate said feed rolls to progressively advance the work relatively to said needle bar to form progressive stitches, means to automatically and periodically interrupt the operation of said transmission means at desired times to stop the operation of said feed rolls and consequently the advance of the work, means for oscillating said needlebar to form transverse stitches while advance of thework is thus arrested, and'ii'i'e'ans independent of said feed rolls for accelerating the advance of the work relatively to said needle bar at certain times '4. In'a sewing machine having a stitching means adapted to roduce both longitudinal and transverse stitches, intermittently rotated feed rolls for advancing the work relatively to the sewing mechanism of the machine to form longitudinal stitching therein, means to automatically interrupt the operation of said feed rolls and thereby stop the advance of the work to liold the same sta-.

tionary, and means to actuate said stitching means for the production of transverse stitching while the work is thus held stationary, and means independent of said feed rolls for accelerating the advance of the work relatively to the sewing mechanism of the machine at certain times to produce elongated longitudinal stitches.

5. In combination with a sewing machine having a main rotating shaft for actuating the sewing mechanism thereof, a pair of cooperating feed rolls beyond said sewing mechanism, transmission iiicans actuated from said main shaft to intermittently rotate said feed rolls to progressively advance the work relatively to said sewing mechanism to produce running stitches, said transmission means including a drive worm and a pin gear wheel to cooperate therewith, and timed means also actuated from said main shaft operative to separate said drive worm and pin gear wheel to automatically interrupt operation of said transmission means and stop said feed rolls thus arresting advance of the work while another character of stitching is produced.

6. In combination with a sewing machine having a main rotating shaft for actuating the sewing mechanism thereof, a pair of cooperatiiig feed rolls beyond said sewing mechanism, transmission means actuated from saidmain shaft to intermittently ro' tate said feed rolls to progressively advance the work relatively to said sewing mechanism to produce running stitches, said transmission means including a drive worm and a pin gear wheel to cooperate therewith, and timed means also actuated from said main shaft operative to separate said drive worm and'pin gear wheel to automatically interrupt operation of said transmission means and stop said 'feed rolls thus arresting advance of the work while another character of stitching is produced,'and means independent of said feed rolls for accelerating the advance of the work relatively to said sewing mechanism at certain times.l v

7. In combination with a sewing vmachine having a main rotating shaft for actuating the sewing mechanism thereof, a pair of cooperating feed rolls beyond said sewing mechanism, transmission means actuated from said main shaft to-intermittently rotate said feed rolls to progressively advance the work relatively to said sewing mechanism to pro,- duce running stitches, said transmission means includinga drive worm and a pin gear wheel to cooperate therewith, and timed means also actuated from said main shaft operative to separate said drive worm and pin gear wheel to automatically interrupt opertion of said transmission means and stop said feed rolls thus arresting advance of the work while another character of stitching is produced, said transmission interrupting means comprising means for moving saidl drive worm and pin gear wheel into and out of engagement, and a rotatable cam wheel for actuating said latter means. v

8. In combination with a sewing machine having a main rotating shaft for actuating the sewing mechanism thereof, said sewing mechanism includinga needle bar adapted for both vertical recipi'ocation and lateral oscillation, a pair of cooperating feed rolls beyond said sewing mechanism, transmission means actuated from said main shaft to intermittently rotate said feed rolls to progressively advance the work relatively to said needle bar to produce running stitches, said transmission means including a drive worm and a pin gear wheel to cooperate therewith, timed means also actuated from said `main shaft operative to separate said drive worm and pin gear wheel to automatically interrupt operation of said transmission means and stop saidfeed rolls thus arresting advance of the work, and means for oscillatingr said needle bar to form transverse stitches while advance of the work is thus arrested.

9.y In combination with' a sewing machine having a main rotating shaft for actuating the sewing mechanism thereof, said sewing mechanism including a needle bar adapted for both vertical reciprocation and lateral oscillation, a pair of cooperating feed rolls beyond said sewing mechanism, transmission means actuated from said main shaft to intermittently rotate said feed rolls to progressively advance the work relatively to said needle bar to produce running stitches, said tra-usvbeyond said needle bar mission means including a drive worm and a pin gear wheel to cooperate therewith, timed means-also actuated from said main shaft operative to separate said drive worm and pin gear wheel to automatically interrupt operation of said transmission means and stop said feed rolls thus arresting advance of the Work, means for oscillating said needle bar to form tranveise stitches while advance of the work is thus arrested, and means independent of said feed rolls for accelerating the advance of the work relatively to said needle bar at certain times.

10. In combination with a sewing machine having a main rotating shaft for actuating the sewing mechanism thereof, said sewing mechanism including a needle bar adapted for both vertical reeiprocation and lateral oscillation, a pair of cooperating feed rolls sewing mechanism, transmission means actuated from said main shaft to intermittently rotate said feed rolls to progressively advance the work relatively to said to produce running stitches, said transmission means including a drive worm and a pin gear wheel to cooperate therewith, timed means also actuated from said main shaft operative to separate said drive worm and pin gear wheel to automatically interrupt operation of said transmission means and stop said feed rolls thus arresting advance of the work, said transmission interrupting means comprising means for moving said drive worm and pin gear wheel into and out of engagement, and a rotatable cam wheel for actuating said latter means; andmeans for oscillating said needle bar to form transverse stitches while dvanee of the work is arrested.

11. In combination with a sewing machine having a main rotating shaft for actuating the sewing mechanism thereof, said sewing mechanism including a needle bar adapted for both vertical reciprocation and lateral oscillation, a pair of co-operating feed rolls beyond said sewingmechanism, transmission means actuated from said main shaft to intermittently .rotate said feed rolls to progressively advance .the work relatively to said needlebar to producerunningstitches, said transmission means including a drive worm and a pin gear 'wheel to cooperate therewith, timed means also actuated from said main shaftoperative to separate said drive worin and pin gear wheel to automatically inter-` rupt operation of said transmission means and stop saidfeed rolls thus arresting advance of the work, said transmission interrupting means comprising means for moving said drive worm and pin gear wheel into and out of engagement, and a rotatable cam wheel `for actuating said latter means; means for oscillating said'needle bar to form transverse stitches while advance of tlie work is arrested; and means independent of said'feed rolls wardly olf-set from for accelerating the advance of the work relatively to said needle .bar at certain times.

12. lIn a sewing machine to form fastener tape by a continuous stitching o eration whereby running stitches interrupte ly-joint" togetheratapebody andcover strip to provide at predetermined intervals openings therebetween and whereby reenforcing transverse bar stitches are automatically produced on each 'side of each opening, a sewing mechanism includingfa needle bar adapted for both vertical reciprocation and lateral oscillation, a pair of cooperating intermittently rotated feed rolls rearward of said needle-bar foradvancing the tape materials relatively to the latter to form said running stitches, timed means to interrupt the operation of said feed rolls to stop the advance of said tape materials during the formation of said bar stitches, means foioscillating said needle bar while the tape materials are arrested to produce said bar stitches. said latter means also including means to hold said needle bar outwardly oli'- set from the stitched edge of said cover strip while the tape materials are advanced between the side bounding bar stitches of each formed opening, and a second set of synchronously operated feed rolls rearwardly spaced from said first mentioned feed rolls adapted to hold the tape issuing from the latter re1- atively taut and subject to a fastener insertion o eration. Y 13. n a sewing machine to form fastener tape by a continuous stitching operation whereby running stitches interruptedly join together a tape body and cover strip to -produce at predetermined intervals openings therebetween and whereby reenforcing transverse bar stitches are automatically produced on each side of each opening, a sewing mechanism including a needle bar adapted for both vertical reciprocation and lateral oscillation, a pair of cooperating intermittently rotated feed-rolls rearward of said needle-bar for advancing the tape materials relatively to the latter to form said running stitches, timed means to interrupt the operation-ofsaid feed rolls to stop the advance of said tape materials during the formation of said bar stitches, means for oscillating said needle bar while the tape materials are arrested to produce said bar stitches, said latter means also including means to hold said needle bar outthe stitched edge of said cover I strip Awhile the tape materials are advanced between the side bounding bar i stitches of each formed'opening, means in addition to said feed-rolls for accelerating the movement of the tape during the latter operation, and a second set of synchronously operated feed rolls rearwardly spaced from` said first mentioned feed rolls adapted to hold the tape issuing from the latter relatively taut and subject to a fastener insertion o eration.

14. In a sewing machine adapte to per- Ithe same stationary,

form a continuous stitching operation whereby running stitches interruptedly join together superimposed lies of material to provide at predetermined intervals fastener receiving openings therebetween and whereby reenforcing bar stitches are automatically produced on each side of. each opening, a sewing mechanism, a pair of feed rolls for .advancing the material longitudinally relatively to said sewing mechanism while said running stitches are produced, timed means to interrupt the operation of said feed rolls to stop the advance of said material to hold means to actuate said sewing mechanism for the production of bar stitches while the work is thus held stationary, and means for-holding the stitched material issuing from said feed rolls relatively taut and subject to a fastener insertion operation.

15. In a sewing machine adapted to perform a continuous stitching operation whereby running stitches interruptedly join to' gether superimposed plies of material to provide at predetermined intervals fastener receiving openings therebetween and whereby reenforcing bar stitches are automatically produced on each side of each opening, a sewing mechanism, a pair of feed rolls for advancing the material longitudinally relatively to said sewing mechanism while said running stitches are produced, timed means -to interrupt the operation of said feed rolls t-o stop the advance of said material to hold the same--stationary, means to actuate `said sewing mechanism for the production of bar stitches while the work is thus held stationary, and means for holding the stitched material issuin from said feed rollsrelatively taut and suv ject to a fastener inserti n operation, said latter means comprising a second set of feed rolls rearwardly spaced from said first mentioned feed rolls, and transmission means for actuating said second set of feed rolls in synchronism with said first mentioned feed rolls.

16. Ina feed for sewing machines, the combination with the sewing mechanism of the machine and beyond the same relative to the direction of movement of the work therethrough, of a pair of cooperating rotary rolls unobstructed on one side to permit the insertion of work therebetween when said rolls are separated, tensional means to yieldably hold the rolls in cooperating relation, means to separate said rolls at will, and a second pair of similar cooperating rotary rolls aligned with but spaced from and beyond said first mentioned pair to hold the `work relatively taut as it moves from one pair of rolls to the other.

In testimony, that I claim the invention set forth above I have hereunto set my hand this 18th day of March, 1927.

LEO ROSEMAN.