US1712225A - Means pertaining to permanent waving of hair - Google Patents

Description

May 7, 1,929; Q NESLER 1,112,225

MEANS PERTAINING To PERMANENT WAVING OF HAIR.

- Filed Jan. 13, 1927 2 sheets-sheet 2 2 INVENTOR.

BY m

@y M,- ATTORNEY.

Patented May 7, 1929.

CHARLES nEssLFn, or new Yon-K, n. Y.,

FFEQE.

ASSIGNGR TO THE NESTLE-LE MUR COM- PANY, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., A CORPORATION OF OHIO.

MEANS PERIAINING T PERMANENT WAVING OF HAIR.

Application filed January 13, 1927. Serial No. 160,996.

Ihis invention relates in general to methods and means pertaining to what is known as the permanent waving or curling of hair and more particularly to growing hair on the head. In this art in which the wound or coiled strand of hair is subjected to the action of moisturevand heat to produce the wave in thehair, there has for some time been in use a strip of absorbent fabric which is prepared beforehand by impregnating it with a certain strength or concentration of hair-treating substance soluble in water,-the strip being then dried and laid aside for future use, as set forth in U. S. Letters Patent No. 1,592,150, granted to Charles G. Nessler, July 13, 1926, for method and means for hair waving. In using the said prepared strip it should be immersed in a given quantity of water to dissolve its impregnated contents and then squeezed or washed out in said water to thereby produce the desired hair-treating lotion for application to a strand of hair undergoing the permanent waving process. j

By my present improvements I utilize the aforesaid character of prepared strip by providing a series of the same having different definite grades as to the strength of the solution which they are capable of producing and using them in waving they different varieties or classes of hair as expressed by'the hairs liquid-absorbing capacity or porosity determined by me in the manner set forth in a companion application for patent filed in the U. S. Patent Office on even date herewith. One object of the invention is to provide means whereby the hair of each different head may be supplied with that strength of the hair treating lotion which is best adapted for its porosity or liquid-absorbing capacity in order to have the strength of the lotion apportioned to the absorptive nature or character of the hair so that each kind of hair may be given a satisfactory wave and without the risk of injuring any hair. Another object in View is to afford the hairdresser very convenient facilities whereby he'can readily ascertain-at the moment, what strength of the series of lotions will best serve the purpose of waving a customers hair, by merely taking the precaution to first sample-wave a few strands on theicus tomers head,'using a different grade of the lotion for the different strands and thenselecting and using the one Whichshows the best results. 7

A further object of the invention is to prevent these dried impregnated strips from losing any of their efficiency when using them, ashas heretofore been the case when the strip was placed in open fiat condition in the lotion-forming water. In the old practice it was a frequent occurrence for the operator to use too much water for each strip, -thereby making the resulting lotion too weak and lowering its grade accordingly, while in other instances the loose strip was dropped in too much water and then removed and the squeezed out liquid retained by itself for application as a lot-ion. In the latter case, an appreciable quantity of the contents of the impregnated strip became dissipated in the water before being removed, thereby causing a material reduction in the assigned strength of the lotion. I further seek to improve the manufacture of these impregnated strips and also to put them up in a handy form so that their contents are conserved and they are equipped to avoid taking up an excess of the lotionforming water, at the same time each strip after the lotion has been extracted therefrom mayconveniently be used as a lotion-dauber or brush for applying the lotion to the hair.

There are other features of my improvements which also have important advantages in this art and which will appear from the more detailed description as hereinafter given.

In the drawings in which a preferred form of the invention has been selected for illustration Fig. 1, shows a broadside view of my im proved strip in flat condition.

Fig. 2, shows a similar view of the strip with the securing wire bent around one end of the strip preparatory to rolling the latter thereon a core-piece.

Fig. 3, isa similar. view to that in Fig. 2, and shows the end of the strip turned on itself to start rolling it up.

, F 4, is a perspective view of the rolled strip.

Fig. 5, shows a perspective view of a jacket or cover which is to be placed over the rolled strip to house it.

Fig. 6, shows in perspective the rolled strip with its encasing jacket.

Fig. 7, is a perspective view, somewhat diagrammatic, showing the operator holding with one hand a strand of hair on the head, while with the other he uses the wetted rolled strip as a brush for applying the lotion to the hair.

Fig. 8, shows a side view of a hair strand wound around a curler-red and wrapped with one of the strips which is held in place by the binding wire and the scalp-protect ing pad is also shown in position to protect the head.

Referringto the drawings for a more de tailed description of my improvements, 1 is a rectangular shaped piece of suitable absorbent material made preferably of fabric, such for example as flannel, though. any suitable material which lends itself to impregnation with the substances used may be adopted, This sheet is made of a desired,

width and length to provide an oblong strip adapted, it so desired, after being wrung out in the lotion-forming water, to be wrapped in wet condition around the wound strand of hair before inserting the'same in the heater in the waving process.

In accordance with my said other invention, I have succeeded in definitely formulating classes of hair dependent upon their relative a'bsorptivities and a series of grad uated strengths of lotion corresponding in number to' that of the hair classes for treating the same. I have also adopted a procedure in which the previously ascertained 'absorptiveness of a hair specimen serves tov classify it and is utilized as the criterion which determines the strengthof lotion to be used in waving the hair; the number of hairclasses and lotion grades being conveniently fixed say for example at ten for the practical operation of my inventions, as hereinafter more fully described. I have discovered that the greater the liquid absorbing capacity of the hair, the weaker should be the" alkaline lotion used thereon in the waving process; thus the full strength of the lotion should be. used only on hair having the lowest liquid absorptivity while the weakest lotion should be used on hair having the highest absorptivity and in the same way the intermediate classes of hair should have their corresponding intermediate graduated strengths of lotion used thereon in accordance with their respective liquid absorptivities. y

In arranging the varied strengths of the hair-treating alkaline lotion in ten num bers to agree with the ten hair classes, lotion No. 10, has thegreatest strength, N o. 9 the next lower degree of strength and so on down to lotion No. 1, which has the least strength. Therefore hair which I am able to class from No. 10 to No. 1, based on their relative liquid absorbing capacities should have the graded lotions applied in the waving process, as follows; hair-class No. 10, should have lotion No. 16); hair-class No. 9, lotion No. 9, and so on down the scale to No. 1 hair-class and lotion No. 1;-the two lowest hair-classes Nos. 2 and 1, exhibit very absorbing their assigned grades of lotion may receive substantially the same amount of the alkaline hair-treating substance 1n the waving process.

Any well known means may be used for graduating the set of alkaline lotions as to their different required strengths, but I prefer to use the Baum hydrometer because of its accuracy and ease of'operationL In this way the different grades are so adjusted by the Baum scale that the lotions whose specificgravities read by theB-amn scale respectively from 1 to 10, have the corresponding series of ten numbers applied thereto so that No. 10 is definitely known to apply to. hair classed as No. 10; No. 9 to hair classed as No. 9, and'so-on down the scale.

The well known hair-treating lotions heretofore employed in this art may alkaline be used withmy improvementsby adapting and regulating the strengths of the same in the manner herein described, but I do not recommend the use of borax. I prefer to use an alkaline lotion prepared from alkaline salts belonging to the sodium class dissolved in water and when incorporated in dried fabricstrips, a small quantity of suitable oil, preferably vegetable oil, may be added also a small amount of adhesive or hinder, the said substances being soluble in the lotion for a hair strand such resulting lotion will be of the desired strength suitable for application to hair classed say as No. 10. I recommend thatten such strips be wettedin one ounce ofwater, either hot or cold, and then washed or wrung out to produce a quantity of the lotion which Will serve for treatment often strands of the hair in waving it. The strips may be agitated in the water and the extracted solution should read 10 degrees Baum, whether in making the lotion.

U thereof, one tenth ofan ounce of water being used for each strip.

In the same .way I prepare the various different grades of strips from No. down, the starting solution being made weaker progressively in each descending grade and the reading on the Baum scale likewise being lowered in a corresponding manner so that each of the strips of the same grade when of the same size will yield a squeezed out lotion of definite strength. Assuming that from its known liquid absorbing capacity the hair tobe waved is found from the sample test to fall within class No.7, the operator in waving it should use strips No. 7 to obtain the best results. The size of the strip maybe Varied as desired from that hereinabove given and the strength of the impregnated substances may thus be regrn lated, a smaller strip containing less of a given strength of the lotion and a larger strip containing agreater amount, but in any case the definite strength of each strip must be known and in some way marked for use. I

If in using these strips they are placed in the'lotion-forming water in open flat condition, I find that where there is an excess of such water, as is often the case, the loose strip loses some of its efficiency by the dissipation of some of its impregnated sub stances in the water which being in excess is not all used as lotion. In order to corn serve all of the assigned strength of the strip I form it in folded or roll shape and then preferably cover it with a jacket which is left open at each end to let the water be absorbed by the roll when immersed'there- To this end the prepared strip 1 is turned or rolled on itself into roll form 3. When the strip is pro vided with a binding member or wire 2, I use it as a core orpart around which to roll the strip, by bending the wire around one end of the strip transversely thereof as shown in Fig. 2, and then folding that end of the strip on itself at i, see Fig. 3, and finally roll it into the form shown in Fig. 4. Any suitable means may be provided for holdin the roll in form but I )referto use a jacket or cover 5, which is wrapped around the exterior of the roll so as to form strip is guarded against and the strip is thus maintained in its full assigned strength. The jacket material is preferably of such character that the water will not readily destroy it and a substantial structure is thus formed so that after the jacketed-roll has been immersed in the water and the lotion squeezed out, the roll maybe grasped in the hand by the operator and then used as a brush or dauber for applying the lotion to the hair strand to be waved,

as shown in Fig. 7, the jacket 5 being slid back to leave a free soft end of the roll to serve this purpose.

As a means for checking the over saturation of the impregnated strip, 1 have adopted the construction of not only putting them up in roll form, but also of using a certain amount of tension on the strip when itis being rolled up and some maybe rolled tight while others are made loose, and the latter will take up the water more quickly than the former, so that for the same period of immersion the loose roll will absorb more water than the tighter one. By regulating the winding tension on the strip in forming the roll and using a given amount of tension I am able to adjust or control the amount of water taken up by the roll even though it be immersed. in an excess of water.

The strips are each marked with an index notation, such as a numeral from No. 1, to No. '10, to indicate their relative strengths of the alkaline content of the lotion produced therefrom. In using the strength or grade marks they may be applied directly to the strip, as shown in Figs. 1 to 4, and the same will show through the transparent jacket 5, or the marksmay be applied to the jacket, as shown in Figs. 5 and G, the marks so indicated in the drawings being the numeral 7, indicating No. 7 grade of the lotion.

I have manufactured these strips of the various different strengths or grades for the trade so that the users thereof may readily select that grade or number of strip which accords with the class number of the hair to be waved, which hair class number may be ascertained in any of the ways set forth by me in my other copending application for patent, hereinabove mentioned, which refers to the determination of hair classes from the hairs liquid-absorptivity, elasticity or stretch. Or the hair-dresser may proceed independently to himself ascertain the hairlassof a customers hair at the time of waving it, by first sample-waving different strands on the head, say three if the hair appears to be normal, or more if abnormal, using a different grade or strength of the strip for each strand and noting the results. For example, he may wave one strand with .lotion strip No. 10, another with No. 8 and another with No. 6, and then select the No. giving the best results. The customer upon once learning the number of the class other hair, may utilize such information in subsequent hair wavlngs by dilierent hairailressers each of whom may be guided in his work by such known class number.

In this preliminary sample-waving of the strands to classify the hair, instead of using several separate strands with a different strength of lotion applied tov each, a single strand may have different sections thereof treated with. the different strengths of the lotion and after the waving thereof while wound on a curler-rod, asshown in Fig. 8, the different sections may be examined to ascertain the best results and that strength selected winch produced the best wave.

Having thus described my intention, what I claim and 'desireto secure by Letters Patent is:- I

1. In the art of pern'ianent waving of hair, a. series of pieces ol" absorbent material each impregnated. with a di erent assigned strength of hair-treating substance on a graduated scale in the series, each of said pieces being adapted to be immersed in a liquid and squeezed out to produce a hairtreating lotion of its assigned. predetermined strength adapted to be applied to a certain ascertained class of hair classified in accordance with its capacity to absorb liquid.

2. In the art of permanent waving of hair, a set of strips of absorbent ma erial each impregnated with a different assigned strength of hair-treating substance and sullicient in number to cover a correspondingly assigned group of hair classes which have been classified in accordance with their respective capacities to absorb liquid, said strips being marked to indicate their strength value or grade in correspondence with marks't'or indicating the classes of hair and being adapted to be placed in a liquid and then squeezed out to produce a hairtreating lotion of its assigned grade.

liquidand then squeezedout to produce a hair-treating lotion, said piece being made into a roll and provided with a jacket or cover with the ends thereof open.

5. In the art of permanent waving of hair,

an appliance consisting ofa strip of absorbent material impregnated with hair-treating V substance and capable when immersed in a liquid and squeezed outto provide a hair-v treating lotion, said strip being provided.

with a binding member -attached thereto,

said member being placed across one end of said'strip and the strip rolled on it.

6. In the art of permanent waving of hair, an appliance comprising a strip of absorbent material impregnated with hair-treating substance and capable when immersed in a 1 liquid and washed out to produce a hairtreatiug lotion, said stripbeing made up in roll form under certain tension in rolling the same. i I v i 7. In theart of permanent wavingot' hair, a series of pieces of absorbent material each impregnated with a dilferent assigned strength of hair-treating substance ona graduated scale in the series, each of said pieces being adapted to be immersed in a liquid and squeezed out to produce a hairtreating lotion oi? its assigned predetermined strength. p

8. In the art of permanent waving of hair on the head by use of dried impregnated rolled-strips of absorbent material, the method of varying th-eliquid absorptivity ot the rollby varying the tension in rolling it into form.

9. In the art of permanent hair waving,

absorbent material formed into a substantial body or roll and ln'lpregnated with hairtreatmg substance and adapted to be soaked in liquid to form a hair-treating lotionand then used to daub the lotion on a hair to be treated.

10.111 the art of permanent hair waving,

strand of an appliance comprising absorbent material.

impregnated with hair-treating substance soluble in liquid to form a loti'on,.an'd a coving therefor of non-absorbent material encasing the same with the exception of a comparatively small area thereof which. is left uncovered for direct contact of the liquid with the uncovered portion of the absorbent material. V

Signed at New Yorkcity, in the county. of New York and State of New York, this.

29th day of December, A. D. 1 926.

CHARLES .NESSLER.

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