US1706633A - Sewing-machine attachment - Google Patents

Description

March 26, 1929. T, ROBERTS v 1,706,633

SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENT Filed Jan. 2'7, 1926 Patented Mar. 26,' 1929.l

A UNITEDv STATES PATENTOFFICE.

THOMAS ROBERTS, 0F HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNORk OF ONE-HALF TO JOSEPH E. DUB, 0F HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS. l i

SEWING-MACHINE ATTACHMENT.

Application l'ed January 27, 1926. Serial No. 84,062.

This 'invention relates to certain improvements in means for finishing the edgesl of shoe uppers in the manner disclosed by the U. S. patent to Daniels #1,400,806, dated Dec. 20th, 1921.y

In performing the process disclosed in Said patent, a galloon is folded about a cord and stitched to the outer side of theshoe upper near its edge and between the cord and the edge, after which the edge portion of the up-y per is folded onto its inner side, so that the cord-containing portion of the galloon is held on the folded over edge of the upper, and the upper has a corded edge When finished, and is known as a French-cord7 edge. Said patent discloses, as alternative methods, the assembling of the galloon and cord by folding the galloon about the cord and securing its opposite portions together close to the cord, as a preliminary to the operation of stitching the galloon to the upper, and the assembling of the galioon and cord injthis manner, at the time of stitching the saine to the upper,

rlhe method last referred to has been considered advantageous over the other method, primarily because it dispenses With the oper,- ation of assembling the cord and galloon before they are stitched to the upper, but, not only was the means disclosed in said patent, for-assembling the cord and galloon at the time they are stitched to the upper, been found to be impractical, but, prior to my iiivention, no practical means, so far as I am aware, have been devised Which enabled the cord and galloon to be assembled and stitched to the upper by one operation, and in a manner which produced satisfactory results. y n

One ofthe essentials to satisfactory results inthe performance of the process, is that the galloon bedraivn tightlyv about 'thecord and that it be secured in this position by stitches,

and it is in this important particular that prior means for performing the operation of assembling and stitching on ,at one time have failed, for, with a guiding means of the character illustrated in said patent, it is practically impossible for the operator so to guide the cord and galloon that thecord Will be held firmly against the bottom of the fold in the galloon and the latter will be drawn tightly over the cord and its folds secured together close tothe same by the stitches which attach 'the galloon to the upper. Y y

As a result of thefailure toproduce a pracas an adhesive for this purpose, would be objectionable, as likely to interfere With rthe `operation of` thesewing machine needle, a kpaste form of adhesive has been generally employed. In" practice much difficulty has been encountered With the pasted galloon, for the reason that the paste is liable to lose its adhesive qualities, particularly if kept in stock for too long a time, so that the folds of the galloon become separated and the cord misplaced inconsequence, making it practically impossiblc to attach it. Also, the paste tends to makel the galloon stiff, and thisstiffness is likely to increase with time. Onaccount of this stiffness, difficulty has been encountered in connection with the so-called turning operation, in which the galloon, after it has been stitched onto the outer side of the leather, is turned in onto the inner side thereof. This difficulty is encountered most frequently in connection with patent leather, and onaccount of the stiffness of the galloon an undue strain is placed on the leather at the point when they are stitched together, so that the surface of the leather is frequently cracked close to the line of stitches.

f On account of the fact that the corded galloon Vis prepared for a special purpose, it 1s impractical for the galloon manufacturer to prepare it in all the available shades, Weights Which he desires to use,for this this reason.y

Furthermore, upper leather is likely to vary in thickness, and, in order that satisfactory,

Work may be performed, the Athickness of the cord and galloon vshould correspond to the -thickness of the upper. Vhil'e this correspondence may be secured by varying the size of the cord according to required conditions, it has been considered impractical for the d-ealer in corded galloons to provide the saine with cords et dilierent size.

These, and other objections to the prepared galloon may he avoided by providing` a practical means tor assembling any galloon and cord and stitching` them to the upper by one opera ion, so that the shoe nnuniiacturcr may then employ any galloon and cord which is available.

ln performing the process ot said Daniels patent, it has been tound practically necessary to cement the galloon vto the inner side oii the upper when the turning` operation pertermed, so that the operation oi sewing' on the lining' 'will be tacilitated. When the gralloon having its folds cemented together is en'iployed, it is merely necessary to apply cement to one ot these tolds, but it' the cord and galloon were assembled at the time they were stitched to the upper by the method disclosed ii said lanielspatent, a double cementing operation Woiiild be necessary cement both iolds ot the galloon to the inner` side ot the upper.

lhc objects of my invention are primarily, to provide means, adapted or use in 'connection with a known type ot sewing machine, which will 'told the galloon about a cord and hold the cord securely against the bottoni ot the told, 'While the stitches are passed tlnouajh the folded portions of the galicon in t, proximity to the cord, and through the .el upper, to attach the galloon thereto, so tl the galloon will be drawn tightly about the cord and secured in .this position.

jther ohjects otl my invention are to provide an attachment which Will 'told the galloon accurately, and in such a in an ner, that it will be so attached to the upper that when the edge portion ot.' the upper is `folded onto its inner side, both 'folds of the galloon may be cemented to the inner surface by a single cementing operation.

l accon'iplish these andA other objects oiE invention in the manor hereinalter def-scribed and illustrated in the acconipanyiirgY drawing' in which:

Fig'. l is a perspective View of a sewing machine attachment embodying a preferred torni ot my ii'ivention and showing,` the parts in position ot use.

fig. 2 is a plan view olE the attachment partly in horizontal section.

Fig'. 3 is a sectional View at line 3-3 oi 2.' F i' and 5 are sectional views at lines 'v-l and 5 5 respectively lol l? 2.

Fig. (S is an enlarged detail sectional if'iew at line 5-5 ot' Fig. 2.

Fie'. 7 a sectional view at linev7-7 ot Fig'. 2.

Fig. 8 is a view ot a section oi" the Work atter attaching,` and he tore tolding, and

Fig. 9 is a section thereo'l after cen'ienting and folding.

As the device which embodies the invention comprises a torni ot attachment adapted 'for use in connection With a common iorin ot upper stitching machine, preferably ot the cylinder type, it is considered unnecessary to illustrate the same, except by indicating the machine parts directly associated therewith, which comprise the table T, the needle hl et the sewing mechanisn'i and the edge guido G.

, llrccording. to my invention l provide an at aclnnent which comprises a bracket a, adapted to be mounted on a fixed part or' the sewing machine, not shown, beneath the level ot the work support-ingj`l` surface of the table 'l`, and having a fiat arm al formed integrally therewith and extending` horizontally adjacent the level oi" said. surface. A guide plate secured on the arm al by means of screws c and projects horizontally therefrom in transverse relation to the direction ot 'feed oi the machine, and said guide plate is provided with an end portion having a semicylindrically Yformed tace 1, which extends :trom the trent ed goot said plate to an. intermediate point therein, in the direction ot the Steed, and a bore or cord passage o2 is tormet in said portion which extents in concentric relation to the tace 1. Said plate Z) is provided with approximately horizontal faces Zi, o on its upper and und-r sides respectively, said; 'aces extending continuously With the tace U' and terminating` in vertical guide shoulders t5, Zi", which extend 'the entire Width of the plate lt is to be particularly noted in this connection that the Width ot the uppermost lace b3, or the distance trom the middle ot the edge ltace 1 to the shoulder h, is substantially less than that oi" 'tace Z2, or the cOrrespending.;` distance to shoulder o", for reasons to be explained. A U-shaped sheet metal casing;u e is extended about the entire end portion ot plate Z so as to enclose the `faces o1, if), of thereot, said casingl being held out oit contact with said tacos and having its opposite portioi'is permanently connected to the upper and under sides respectively ot the plate l), the inner surface ot 'the casin c being disposed in parallel relation to, and at such a distance from the faces (7)1, 3, o4. that a U-shaped guiding passage g is formed therebetween, which is adapted to receive the galloon p and hold it in folded position as it is drawn therethrough, the guide shoulders 7), o being' arranged to engage the edges thereot, as it is ted, so that the ligalloon will he -tol ded along` a longitudinal line adjacent but at one side ot its middle and the foldv which engages the lower shoulder L will be Wider than the other told.

Vl`he front ed ege portion ot the plate o is pro vided With an integral projection CZ, through which-a tubiilar' passage Z1 is formed, ot the same size as the passage b2, Vand at riphtanglee thereto, the arrangement being' such that a cord 0 may be drawn through the passa-ge ido L1, in a direction which is slightly oblique to' the direction of said passage, and partly across the same, in slightly convergent relation to the adjacent concave surface of the casing e, and then inparallel relation thereto, and practically in line withthe line of stitches which will be formed in the galloon, as it is delivered to the sewing mechanism, indicated by the needle N, the plate Z) and Y casing e being so supported that the delivery end of the face bl will be in close proximity to the needle, andthe delivery end of the lower portion of the U-shaped passage g will he at the levelv of the surface of table T. The casing c tapers somewhat from its entrance to its discharge end, as shown in Fig. 7, so that the U-shaped passage g therethru tapers correspondingly, the faces Z# also being formed to converge slightly from the front to the rear end of face b1. The rear portion of the face 67 is so formed with reference to the adjacent concave inner surface of casing e, or passage g, that the distance from said face to said surface will correspond to the diameter of the cord plus the thickness of the galloon employed. That is the face 57 is held in sufliciently close proximity to the concave face of casing@ to press the cord firmlyv against the bottom of the fold in the galloon v and thereby hold the latter firmly against said concave face, as the galloon and cord are drawn thru passage g, without causing undue friction thereon. v

`Vilith the above described construction, therefore, the cord and galloon having been placed in the relative position already de'- scribed within the attachment, as they are drawn therethru, the galloon kWill be folded longitudinally along a line adjacent, but at one side of its'middle and the cord will be delivered between thevfolds of the galloony and pressed against the galloon at the line of the fold therein, which may be conveniently termed the bottom of the fold.

In performing the operation of attaching the galloon and cord, as thus assembled, to a piece of upper leather g, as indicated in Fig. l, the leather piece, the edge portion of which will have been skived on its flesh side, will be placed on the table, flesh side up, with its edge portion resting on the casing e and its edge held against the edge guide G. The folded gailoon, with the cord therein, will be drawn from the passage g, so that they lie on the table beneath the leather, and the latter will be pressed firmly ontlie galloon by the usual presser foot, not shown. The feeding mechanism of the machine will draw the galloon and cord through the attachment as it feeds the leather, so that they will be stitched together by a row of stitches s which will pass thru the folds of the galloon close to the side of the cord opposite the bottom of the fold in the galloon.

It is to be particularly noted that the relative arrangement of the leather guide and the galloon guide is such that the galloon will be attached to the grain side of the leather in such a position that both folds of the gal# loon will project beyond the edge of the f leather an d the narrower fold will lie next the grain surface of the leather, as shown in F' Y. 8. This is of vital importance for the foilowing reasons: In the subsequent operation of finishing the edge of the leather, the edge portion thereof is kfolded inward along such a line that the cord containing portion of the galloon is held on the edge or top of the fold thus formed. It has been found to be practically necessary to cement the inturn ed edges of the leather and galloonto the inner side ofthe leather before the liningl is sewed on, consequently, a coating of rubber cement is applied to the flesh side of the edge portion of the leather, and, at the same time, to the i portion of the narrower fold of the galloon which projects beyond the shived edge of the leather, and the portion of the wider fold o the galloon which extends beyond the edge of the narrower fold thereof. As a result,

when the folding operating is performed, the y edge portion of the leather will be folded against its inner side, and adhe ely connected thereto, and the edge portions of the galloon, to which'the cement was applied, will also be folded against the inner side of the leather beyondr its shived edge, as indicated in Fig. 9, so that all of these parts will be cemented in the position into which they are folded. It to beinoted, however, that it is not lessential that the edge ortion of thenarrower fold ofthe galloon project be yondtlie edge of the leather, so thatfcement will beapplied thereto when the edge portion of the leather is cemented, as it will besufficient if the wider foldonly projects beyond the edge of the leather, for the reason that if the edge portion of the wider fold adheres tothe innerside ofthe leather, when the folding operation is perforn'ied, it will hold the narrower fold'flat against the leather.

With the above described attachment the cord and galloon will be positively guided, so that they will be assembled in the required relation andattached tothe upper in the ref` quired position at one operation, which may be performed as rapidly as if the cord and galloon had been previously assembled, all' purposes. described, comprising a casing AllO saifjl @guide lnivinf;` a cord refeiving passage therein arranged to extend in the direction oit said casing iassagge and opening, thereto in positien to deliver a cord between the folds of Vthe ,faille/an at the hot'oin oi.I the fel-l 'therein, and cord-gnidinp` in ans posed in said casingl passage and terniina'1 at the delivery end thereof, said "leans having a guidiace arranged 'to cnaf the co 'd, as it s drawn 'from the deliveryr nd of said cerdceiving passage, an d press nie saine against e he', ein ot' the fold in the galleon and the againsflthe adjacent side if lthe easing' passage at its elivm'jyY end, to permit the folds of the galloen to be stitched together Close to the cord, While thns held, in close prexiinit7 to the delivery end of 'the casnig` pasage.

2. A sewing' machine attachment iter the purposes described, comprising; a casingl hav ing a i-shaped passage adaped to extend in the direction et the sewing machine .if-eed a galloen and :told the saine adidle portion as it is drawn therey i delivered to the sev-Jing ineehaanisn'i, a tubular guide located between the opposite portions of said passage and 'terminating at its rear end adjacent the intermediate poiai'on of the passage, and cord guiding means in said passage extending Eroi-n rear end of sait tnonlar guide to the rear et 'the passage and having a guiding 'tace ed to extend cenverpgeni'ily -with the oit the intermediate portion o't said pas-age at its' rear end, to hold the cord against 'the bottoni of the :told in the `galloon as the PVQgalloon 's deliif'ered to the sewing mechanisni.

3. A sewingmachine attachn'ient ior the purposes described, comprising a casing havplate e en ding iiroin the front to the rear end et sahL passage and arranged to engage the edges of the gal'loon and hold it in position n the passage, said kg'iiide plate having a oord- V'vinilihere extending trein the'iiont edge end of :aid face, and a guide in said .i1 :ae/e extending freni the inner end of said tie rear end of the passage and arrai-,eied to engage the oord-as it is drawn frein san here and hold it the bottoni oi' tne fold in the galloon and hold the latter against said side of the passage as 'they emerge troni the passage.

4. sewing' niaehine attachment for the purpeses described, comprising a easing` havino a gelloon receiving passage extending tl: through, in the direction oi the sev-Jing niseiiine feed, a guide plate arranged to eX- tene into said passage troni one side thereof and having an end tace disposed adjacent the opposite side of said passage, extending` ier a portion oi" the length thereof, and about which the galloon will loe folded as it is drawn therethrough, said guide plate having a bore adapted to receive a cord, and extending 'therethrough in proximity to said end 'tace and opening at its rear end to said passage, in position to deliver the cord between the folds ot the galloon, and supplemental giiidingl means disposed in said passage and having,r a iace arranged to engage the cordy as is drawn troni said bore and to deflect it against lthe bottoni of the 'fold in thegalioon and hold the latter against the side oiAv said passage as it is delivered tothe sewing ineelianisni.

'ln 'testimony whereof, naine to this specification.

THOMAS ROBERTS.

et and opening to said passage at the I have signed my

Images