US1104875A - Lasting and sewing machine. - Google Patents

Description

J. GAVANAIGH, JR.

Patented July 28, 19M

7 5 SHEETS- SHEET 1.

. W/T/VESSES J. OAVANAGH, JR-

LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DEC. 1, 1909.

Patented July 28, 1914,

5 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

Fig. 2.

am a

J. GAVANAGH, Jn. LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE. 'APPLIOATIONTILED 1330.1, 1909.

Patented July 28, 1914,

,5 SHEETSSHEET 4.

(I. GAVANAGH, JR. LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE. APPLIQATION FILED DBO. 1, 1909.

Patented July 28,1914,

5 BHEETS-SHBET 6.

Fig.6. I z 260 2 t9) I I 0 103 Fig.7 7 4 Fig.8; l/l//77\/ESSESL v Wvavmm JAMES, cAvANAcH, JR.,-OF nos'roN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR T0 UNITED SHOE MACHINERY 'coMPANY, JERSEY.

JIQAS'I'ING AND E NG M HINE.

Specification of Letters Batent.

OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW Patented July as, 1914.

Applicationflled December 1, 1909. SeriaLRo. 580,816.

To all whom it may concern: l

Bert known that I, J Arms GAvANAoH, J r., a citizen of the United States, residing at Boston, in the county of Sufiolk and State of Massachusetts, have inventedcertain Improvements in Lasting and Sewing Ma- 'chines, of which the following descri tion,

in connection with the accompanying rawings, is a specification, like reference'characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to lasting machines, and particularly to machines of the type that work the shoe upper over a last andsecure itto the innersole by-repeated operations applied by the machine progressively to different parts of the upper, Examples of this type of machine are shown in United States Letters Patent No. 584,744, dated June 15, 1897, and No. 873,018, dated December 10,, 1907. A The present invention is shown as embodied in a machine of the samev general'character as those disclosed-by said Letters Patent, and comprehends certain improvements therein as .willbe hereinafter more particularly pointed out. In the machine shown in Letters Patent No. 873,018, the successively overworked portions of the upper are temporarily secured to the innersole of the shoe at the heel, and along the sides, by means of tacks which vare taken from a raceway by a tack separator and delivered thereby to a tack carrier, which is advanced over the edge of the shoe durin each complete operation of the machine an presents the tack held therein in position to be driven, a driver being actuated at the proper time to force the tackgfrom the car'- rier into the work when the carrier has ,reached its proper position over the shoe. In lasting welt shoes it has been proposed to suspend the operation of the driver, the tack carrier, and the tack separator which delivers the tack to the carrier, when the operation of lasting has progressed to a point adjacent the toe portion of the shoe, and to render operative certain devices for laying anism for'formin'g crimps or plaits in the;

a binding wire about the over-worked upper material at the toe, the change from the tack-driving to the toe-wiring devices being made, in the machine shown in Letters Patent No. 873,018, through the operation of the same part that renders effective the mechheel seat of the innersole.

leather to dispose of the fullness due to lasting around this part of the shoe, as is fully set'forth in said Letters Patent. In lasting along the sides of the shoe, however, with .this machine the upper material is seized by-the grippers and worked over the innersole progressively, and the tack carrier ad vances once for every 0 eration of the grippers and causes the thick presser carried ,thereby to force the overworked upper into the angle formed between the lip and feather edge of the innersole, to'which it is secured by tacks, the use of the-grippers being ordinarily suspended when lasting around the heelwhere, by reason of the increased thickness of the stock, it is found in practice that better results follow from the use of the thick-presser alone in laying the leather upon the innersole- At this point also, it is desirable, if not absolutely necessary, that the overturned, plaited material, be secured in position by tacks, which are ordinarily here placed more closely together than at other portions of the shoe in order to reliably secure the bunched and thickened-material of the upper, lining, and heel stiffener, to the It has been found that there are'certain advantages following from the use of stitch-forming mechanism in lieu of tack-driving mechanism in the operation of lasting, because lasting tacks have to be pulled out from all those portions of the forepart sides and shank of the shoe to which the welt is to be sewed in order to permit the sewing to be done Without the in.- terruptions, breakage of needles and damage to the work which result from collisions of the welt sewing machine needle with the lasting tacks if the tacks are not removed. Moreover, some form of holding means has to be substituted for the pulled lasting tacks and even when slender, lightly driven stay tacksare used, as is common, objectionable ,collision with the sewing machine needle is not entirely avoided. The use of stitching mechanism to fasten the upper in lasted position avoids entirely the described interference with the operation ofthe welt sewing machine and saves the operations of pulling lasting tacks and setting stay tacks and avoids all disturbance of 'the lasted upper' suchas is incident to the tackpulling and resetting operations. 7,

An important feature of the present invention accordingly consists' 'in the employment of stitch-forming mechanism, in connectionwith tack-driving mechanism, for

securing the overworked parts of the upper to the inncrsole at certain points thereon where the use of stitches for thispurpose is found to be desirable, and where such vfastenings may be applied in a practicable ,a turn shoe. Under one form of the invention, the sewing mechanism, whlch may comprise a needle carrier, a curved needle supported thereby, and a looper, is preferably actuated through suitable connections from the main power shaft of the machine, the needle and its carrier being mounted upon a support which also carries a downwardly projecting member to holdthe upper against the lip of the inncrsole, so as to maintain it firmly against the thrust of the needle. This support is preferably so connected with theframe of the machine as to be capable of movement to position the needle and its carrier in appropriate relation to the overworking mechanism, in order that they may cooperate therewith, or to carry the needle and its carrier to another position where they will be out of operative relation with said mechanism. As the driving oftacks should be suspended during the operation ofthe sewing mechanism, means is provided to prevent the operation of the tack carrier, and hence of the tack separator also at such time, which latter operates in conjunction with the tack carrier, as is fully described in the Letters Patent before referred to. While there are many ways in which this might be accomplished, I prefer, in the present instance, to provide therefor means under the control of the operator for disconnecting the tack carrier bar from a part of its operating mechanism, as for instance, the lever through which the bar is reciprocated from a cam on the main power shaft of the machine. Such means may conveniently be in the form of a springpressed bolt carried by the lever and arranged to enter an opening in the tack carrier bar in order to connect said parts, or to be withdrawn therefrom in order to disconnect them.

In the embodiment of the invention under consideration, the needle carrier moves in a suitable guideway, and the parts are so arranged that in operation the needle and its carrier will be caused to move in a plane which lies substantially at'right angles to the plane of the insole when the shoe being lasted is presented to the lasting mechanism..

Another form of the invention contemplates a slight change in the angular arrangement of the needle carrier and its guideway, whereby the needle and its carrier are adapted to move'in a planewhich will be inclined to the face of the innersole, and hence at an appropriate angle to permitthe operation of the needle around the toeof a shoe in order to secure the upper to the lip of the inncrsole by a continuous line 'of stitches, beginning at a point slightly forward of the position occupied by the first tack in the heel seat on one side of the shoe, and terminating at a point slightly in advance of the first tack in the heel seat on the opposite side of the shoe. Under this embodiment of the invention the sewing mechanism is adapted for such use in connection withwelt shoes that the toe wiring devices may be dispensed with, and after the stockaround the heel seat has been lasted, and secured in position by the usual lasting tacks, the operations of the tack-supplying and tack-driving mechanisms are suspended, the sewing devices are placed in operative relation to the overworking mechanism, and the operation of the machine continued, whereby the different portions of the upper material at the sides and about the toe are successively worked over theedge of the innersole and secured in such overworked position by a continuousline of stitches passing through the lip and upper. In addition to its adaptability for securing the lasted upper of a welt shoe in position as described, this form of the invention is also of value in connection with the lasting of .turn shoes, where the inclination of the needle carrierpermits the operation of the needle at a suitable angle to operate about the curved end of the toe, as well as along the sides of the shoe. Another contemplated use of this form of the invention in connection with welt shoes lies in the employment of a welt guide in combination with the sewing mechanism, whereby, as the upper material is laid in overworked position against the lip of the inncrsole a welt may be presented in proper relation thereto in order that the welt, upper,and inncrsole may be united by a permanent line of stitches during the lasting operation, thereby dispensing with the subsequent operation of the inseam sewing machine. The capacity for thus performing, in a single operation, what has heretofore been accomplished only by two separate operations, and on independent machines, I regard as a very important feature of this invention. Preferably, the welt guide is so supported in connection with the stitch-forming mechanism as to be movable into and out of operative relation thereto in order that a lwelt may be combinations of parts, will be hereinafter more particularly described and pointed out in the claims. 1

Referring to the drawings:

Figure is a front. elevation of. a lasting machine embodying that form of the present invention employing an inelinedneedle carrier. Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the machine equipped with av slightly different arrangement of needle carrier, and with certain parts shown in section. Fig. 3 is an enlarged sectional View 011 the line wa;, Fig. 2. Fig. l is a perspective View, showing, somewhat enlarged, the sewing mechanism under that form of the invention illustrated in Fig. 2. together with the operating connections therefor, and a shoe in the position it occupies during the lasting operation. Fig. 5 is a detail view illustrating the same stitch-forming devices as they would appear in the operation of uniting an overworked upper to an innersoie. Fig.0 is a plan view of the stitch-forming devices under that form of the invention illustrated in Fig. 1, together with a wclt'guidc, theparts being shown in the positions they occupy when stitching a welt and upper to the innersole. Figs. 7 and 8 show, respectively, front and side elevations of the parts illustrated in Fig. 6.

The column A supports the head B in which is mounted the driving shaft 1). A cam 280,- fast on the shaft D, is provided with a suitable way to actuate a reciprocating member which is connected with the lever 18, fulcrumed at 19 to the frame of the machine. The grippers F are suspended from the front end of lever 18 and are lowered thereby into position for gripping the upper and raised for pulling thenpper. The grippers are closed by an arm 12S carried by a rock shaft 120 which is actuated by a cam 1 1-0 on the shaft D. The grippers are guided through a block 47 which is connected to a slide rod 50 provided with a cam roll located in position to be engaged by a cam face on do rear side of cam 1 10 to move the grippers toward the machine in approaching gripping position, and a springnctnated arm 50 presses the slide rod 50 in the opposite direction to thereby hold the cam roll against the cam face on cam 14-0 in order to move the grippers away from the machine for drawing the upper over the last. The grippers are given other movements for plaiting the upper at the toe of the last by mechanism including the rocking segment 57, which is actuated from a groove formed in the face of cam 140. This mechanism is normally inoperative and is arranged to be rendered operative by means of a knee lever (38 connected -to a vertical shaft 71, which has a forked arm T3 engaging a sliding collar '71. The collar has connection with an adjusting rgd 76 whereby movement of the knee lever in one direction or the other will render operative or inoperative the mechanism tor nents. The constructionand relative arrangement of the grippers mechanism and the mode of operation of the grippers in working the upper over the last, and in plaiting the upper at the toe. may and prefcrablv will be the same as described and shown in the aforesaid Letters Patent Nos. 584.74 1 and 873.018.

The hopper 920 supplies tacks to the raceway 9 and the tacks are individually removed from the raceway by a tack carrier 0, which provided with a pocket to receive the tack. and preferably also with the usual presser for Wiping the upper inwardly over the edge of the last as the tack carrier is advanced to carry the tack in position to be driven. The tack carrier is attached to a sliding bar-84 which moves in suitable guideways in the frame of the machine and at its rear end is connected with a lever fulcrumed upon a pin 89 which passes through a slot 95 in an arm 91, rigid with the frame, and is adjustably clamped thereto 1 a nut 90. it plate having therein a slot 518 registering with the slot 95 in the arm 91. furnishes a bearing surface for the nut 90. and the plate is furthermore provided with a laterally extending portion having a slot 85. The lever 87 carries at its upper end a roll 98 which runs in a cam groove in cam 88, and at itslower end supports a block 03 having a reduced extension or neck which passes through the slot 85 in plate 92. and is guided thereby during the oscillations of the lever. The block 93 has a bore or passage therein as shown, and a bolt. 94,hav ing at its outer end a hand wheel 99 and at its inner end a reduced portion to enter an aperture 96 in the bar 84, isnionnted to slide in said passage for locking the lever 87 fast to the bar 84, or for unlocking it therefrom as will be understood. A spring 102, which surrounds the bolt 9-1 and bears at one end against; a shoulder formed by the enlargement of the bore in block 93 and at its opposite end against a shoulder on said bolt, acts with a. normal tendency to force the reduced end of the bolt toward the aperture an. L Thehand wheel 99 is preferably provided with a pin or step 100 which is adapted to register with any one of a series of holes 101 in the block 93 when the hand wheel is turned an appropriate distance in order to permit the spring to force the end of the bolt into the aperture in the. bar; and when the hand wheel is moved-in a direction to withdraw the bolt from said aperture, and given a slight. turn. the pin will move out of registry with the hole and may be caused to rest upon an imperforate portion of the inner end of block 5 2:3, and theregiving to the grippers their plaiting move ofthe machine.

by retain the bolt out of locking engagement with the bar. When the lever is locked to the tack carrier bar and the machine is in operation the cam 88 will impart to the tack carrier a longitudinal reciprocation to move it from a tack receiving position to a tack delivering position, and vice versa.

The driver d for forcing the tack from the tack pocket into the stock may be operated by the usual driver bar, and the actuating mechanism therefor is preferably the same as disclosed in said prior Letters Patent.

The wire for binding in the lasted upper materials at the toe may be supplied by the reel or spool 10, which is supported in convenient position for use on the frame of the machine, as are also, preferably, suitable tension, guiding, and severing devices for the wire.

The sewing mechanism for uniting the upper to the innersole is best shown in Figs. 4 to S, inclusive. Referring first to Figs. 4 and 5, which show a form of such mechanism especially adapted for use in lasting welt shoes where the upper at the tee is secured in lasted position by a continuous binder, a lever 7, fulcrumed to the frame of the machine, carries at one end a cam-roll 4 which engages a cam face 5 on a cam block 280 fast to the driving shaft. The opposite end of lever 7 isprovided with a slot 8, through which extends one end of a pin 10 having threaded thereon a clamping nut for securing the pin to the lever in a manner to permit its adjustment relatively to the fulcrumof the lever. A rod 13 is pivotally connected at its rear end to the opposite extremity of pin 10 and at its front end is pivoted to the upper arm of a bell-crank lever 1a which is fastened to one end of a shaft 16 having bearing in a sleeve 196 which is supported rigidly from the frame To the inner end of shaft 16 is clamped or otherwise secured an arm 20, which carries a cam roll 21 to engage and be operated by a cam face 22 on the cam block 88. The lower arm of lever 14 is preferably equipped with a socket to engage a ball at the upper end of a rod 26. in order to provide a universal joint at this point, and the lower end of the rod is pivoted to the rearwardly extending arm of a bellcrank lever 27 which is fulcrumcd at 28- to a head 29. A link 80 is pivoted at one end to the lower arm of lever 27 and at its other end to a needle carrier 32. at 31 to the head 29 and moves in a segmental guideway rigidly fastened by screws, or the like, to said head. The needle carrier supports a curved needle which is held to the carrier by any of the usual devices permitting its removal from or application to the carrie, as occasion may require. \Vith the parts described. it will be seen that rotation of the shaft D will,

which is pivoted i through the cam faces 5 and 22 and the connections therefrom to the needle carrier, impart oscillating movements to the needle in a curved path which will be determined by the shape of the guideway 23%, and that the extent of the needles stroke may be controlled by the adjustment of pin 10 along the slot 8. The action of the cam face 5 on the lever 7 is such as to cause the needle carrier, through the connections described, to move the needle in a direction to penetrate the work, by a movement through the innersole lip or shoulder outwardly into the upper which is held by the grippers bridged from the feather edge of the innersole over its lip when the lower arm of the lever moves rearwardly, while when the cam face 22 imparts to the arm 20 a forward move ment the needle is caused to rece(l: 'from the work. or to move oppositely from the direction in which it is moved by the can face 5. In its return stroke the needle will set the stitch and in doing so will tighten the upper by drawing it into close engagement with the lip or shoulder, preferably at the liaise of the shoulder. Stitching mechanism operating in this way supplements the action of the grippers in working the upper into tightly lasted position on welt or turn shoes. These cam faces are so designed that when either one of the cam rolls is on a high point of its cam, and hence is acting to impart a positive movement to the needle, the other cam roll will occupy a corresponding low point on its cam. From this arrangement it follows that the needle will be given positive movements in both directions, to cause it to enter the stock, and to be withdrawn therefrom. A finger 41 is secured to the head 29 at an appropriate distance to the rear of the needle and projects downwardly so that its lower end is in position to engage and support the upper leather in contact with the outer surface of the lip, and to hold it there against the thrust of the needle during the sewing operation, thereby insuring that the needle shall penetrate the upper at a distance not too far remote from the lip to enable theupper to be safely pulled tight against the lip during the retraction of the needle. The head 29 from which the stitchforming devices are supported is shown as being connected to a bracket 38, which is fast to the machine frame, by a vertical pivot belt 36, or other suitable device, in order that it may be swung laterally to p0sition the needle in cooperative relation with the overworking mechanism as shown in Fig. 4, or to carry the needle out of cooperative relation with said mechanism, as will be understood. A. suitable locking device, as a sliding bolt 4-0, which moves in a bore formed in the head 29 and-whose end is v adapted to enter either of two apertures 1 formed in the bracket 38, is preferably arranged for holding the head securely in either of. said positions. The bolt" is shown as having a handle at its outer end, and the bolt will also preferably be provided with a spring or other yielding element so arranged as to cause its inner end to move into either of the apertures in the bracket, according to the position of the head.

The thread may be supplied'to the needle from a spool 43, which is shown as being supported in proper relation to the sewing mechanism upon a bracket projecting from the frame of the machine. The thread passes through a thread guide 42, supported from the frame, and thence to a looper 68 through which it also passes, the looper being actuated; by mechanism, to be described hereinafter,-which receives its power from the shaft D and acts to move the looper in a path to lay a loop of thread around the end of the needle each time it emerges from the stock, when the head 29. occupies the position shown in Fig. 4. The cam block280 is providedwith a cam groove 281 which receives a cam roll carried by the lower end of a lever 46, fulcrumed to the frame of the machine. A bracket 55, fast to the frame, is provided with lugs which are apertured to form bearings for a long sleeve 53, near the inner end of which is secured, by a bolt 59 or other suitable means, a longitudinally bored hub carrying an arm 157 whose lower end supports a cam roll 61 to engage a cam surface 63 formed on the periphery of the cam block 88. A spring 65, having one end fast to the frame and its opposite end fast to the arm 157, acts to hold the cam roll against the cam surface 63. The outer end of sleeve 53 is received within a longitudinally bored hub at the upper extremityof an arm 51 to which the sleeve is rigidly secured by a bolt 52, and the lower extremity of this arm is provided with a bolt 54 by which it pivotally sustains a lever 4 49, to the lower end of which issccured the looper 68. The upper end of lever 49 is connectedthrough a ball and socket, or other form of universal joint, 48, with the forward end of a rod 47, which slides freely through the sleeve 53 and is pivotally connected at its rear end with the upper extremity of lever 46, which is shown as bifurcated to receive the rod. The cam. way 281 and the cam surface 63 are so designed, and their described connections with the looper so arranged, that asthe shaft 1 rotates the cam way 281 will act first to cause the looper to move forwardly, and thereafter as a depression in cam surface 63 reaches a position to permit spring 65 to move arm 157 carrying cam roll 61 in- \vardly, the sleeve 53 will rotate and thereby cause arm 51 to move lever 49 and the looper laterally to the right, following which the 65 looper will be movcdrearwardly, and finally the tack carrier bar in order that tacks may be supplied to the tack carrier when the, machine is started, and be forced by the driver into the work in proper timed relation to the movements of the grippers as the upper is drawn in overworked position over the last, and the head 29- will occupy its position to one side of the front of the machine where it was moved at the completion of the previous operation. The machine being started, a last with the usual materials properly assembled thereon for lasting, is presented to the machine and the overworking and tack-driving mechanisms will operate to last the upper about the heel and secure it to the innersole by tacks. The machine is then stopped, the bolt 94 is withdrawn from the aperture in the bar 84, the bolt 40 is removedfrom the bracket 38, and the head 29 is swung around in front of the machine to locate the sewingmechanism adjacent the grippers, as shown in Fig. 4. The machine being started again the grippers will effect an overworking of the upper material along one side of the shoe and the sewing mechanism will unite the material to the lip of the innersole in its overworked position as the lasting progresses, the shoe being fed alongfrelatively to the lasting and sewing mechanisms by the operator in the usual manner. As soon as a point adjacent the tee is reached the machine is stopped, the bolt 40 withdrawn, and the needle carrier removed from its position adjacent the grippers by swinging the head 29 laterally and away from. the front of the macnine, where it is held by the bolt 40, as heretofore described. The needle cannot. in this position receive thread from the looper, and hence the sewing mechanism will be inoperative to form stitches. Before starting the machine again the operator will shift the knee lever 68 to render operative the mechanism for giving plaitjng movements to the grippers and also that for forcing the upper into the angle of union between the lip and feather edge of the innersole, as fully described in the Letters Patent above referred to. Such adjustments having been e'fl' ected, the machine is re-started and thereafter the successivelyoverworked portions of theupper material are forced into the angle formed by the lip and feather edge of the innersole and are bound in lasted position about the toe of the shoe by wire supplied from the reel 10, and which can be upper has thus been lasted about the toe of the shoe, the machine will be stopped and the end of the wire secured in the usual manner by a tackfor example, a pullingover tack at that side of the shoe. The knee lever will then be shifted to turn the rock shaft 71 in the direction for restoring to their former positions the partspreviously adjusted by it, the head 29 and sewing mechanism carried thereby will again be brought to a position adjacent the grippers, the machine started, and the lasting continued along'the opposite side of the shoe, with the sewing mechanism in operation as before, to a point adjacent the position occupied by the first tack which was driven to secure in position the lasted material at the heel of the shoe.

While in the embodiment of the invention as above described the sewing mechanism operates in a satisfactory manner along the sides of a shoe, and for such reason is adapted for use in welt shoes for securing the upper material in overworked position along the shank and hall, where a wire or similar form of binder is employed at the toe, such mechanism requires a slight modification where it is proposed to continue the sewing operation around the toe. In such cases it is found to be necessary to so arrange the needle carrier and its guideway that the path in which the needle moves will lie in a plane inclined to the plane ordinarily occupied by the bottom of the. shoe as it is held in position to be lasted, inorder that when the shoe is being turned to permit sewing around the curved part of the toe, the needle may be made to follow the lip accu rately, and no stitches will be dropped. Such an arrangement is shown in Figs. 1, 6, 7 and 8, where the lower part of the pivotally mounted head 290 is provided with an inclined face to which is secured the segmental flange 340 for guiding the segmental needle carrier 320. The head is mounted fonmovements to position the needle in suitable" proximity to the grippers for cooperation therewith and with the looper, or to remove it from such position, in the same manner as the head 29, and is also shown as provided with a spring-pressed locking bolt 40 to retain it in place. The cams and connections therefrom whereby the driving shaft. imparts oscillating movements to the needle carrier may be substantially like those shown in Fig. 4. The rod 200, which is preferably connected at one end with a lever similar to the lever 11, is pivoted at its opposite end to one arm of a bell-crank lever 270, which is fulcrumed on the block 100. and whose other arm is coir ncetcd b a universal joint 205) with a link $300 whi h is pivoted to the needle carrier. At a suiiablc point near the needle carrier $520. a fixed extension 102 of the machine frame supports the arm ofa welt guide 103, whichis secured to such extension by a pivot stud, or screw, 104,. The welt guide is pivotally mounted in order. that it may be swung into position for guiding a welt to the sewing mechanism, or be removed from such position, and at a suitable point near its pivot carries a spring-pressed pin 105 which is adapted to enter either one of two depressions 106 in the extension 102 and thereby hold the welt guide in the desired one of the positions specified. A shoulder 106 on the welt, guide arm is arranged to come in contact with a stop pin 107 on the extension 102, and limit the movement of the guide as it is swung into position relatively to the sewing mechanism. As shown in Fig. (3, a presser 108 is secured to the head 290 in position to extend over the welt as it leaves the welt guide, and to support the welt and upper against the thrust of the needle as said parts are being sewed to the lip, such presser acting in similarniair ner to the finger ll. Under this form of the invention it is possible to secure by a continuous line of stiches the overworked upper material both along the sides and at the toe, in welt shoes, and in turn shoes, in the same manner that the overworked upper material was described as being secured along the sides of the shoe only in the embodiment illustrated in Figs. 4 and 5. It is furthermore contemplated by this construction to dispense with the subsequent, and what has been heretofore regarded as necessarily independent, operation of permanently uniting the upper, welt, and innersole upon the inseam sewing machine, by combining the operations of lasting and inseaming in asingle operation. To this end, a welt may be fed to the shoe through the welt guide 103 and laid upon the upper as the successive portions of the upper are worked over the edge of the last, and said parts will then be united to the lip of the inner-sole with a seam formed by the sewing mechanism in the manner heretofore described. It is contemplated that with the sewingmechanism illustrated in Figs. (3, T and 8, a looper of the character illustrated in Figs. 4 and 5 will be cn'n'iloyerl which may be operated by the same, or any other suitable mechanism, to form a loop of thread and lay it around the needle at each movement of the needle through the stock, in the usual manner.

The portion of this invention which relates to the tacking mechanism is not herein claimed but forms tile subject-matter of United States Letters Patent No. LO-Z-(Lfrll.

relates to the stitch forming mechanism alone is not claimed in this application but will form the subject-matter of a divisional application.

Having thus described my invention what I claim as new and desire to secure by Let ters Patent of the United States is 1. In a lasting machine, the combination with means for working an upper over a last, of sewing mechanism for securing the upper in overworked position, said parts being arranged for such relative movement as to permit the sewing mechanism to occupy an operative or an inoperative position relative to'said means.

2. In a lasting machine, the combination with means for Working an upper over a last, of sewing mechanism for securing. the

upper in overworked position supported 'for' movement to position said mechanism in 'or out of operative relation to said means.

3. In a lasting machine, the combination with means for working an upper over a last, of sewing mechanism for securing the upper in overworked position, and a device for supporting said mechanism adjacent said means and arranged for movement to position said mechanism out of operative relation with said means.

'4. In a lasting machine, the combination with means for working an upper over-a last, of sewing mechanism for securing the upper in overworkedposition, a support for said mechanism arranged for movement to locate said mechanismzin operative relation with said means or to remove it therefrom, and means for retaining the support in either of'said positions.

5-11 1 a lasting machine, the .combination I with means for working an i-pper over a last, of sewing mechanism forseouring the upper in OVBIWOlkGdPOSltlOIl, .a support therefor, and pivotal means forsustaining said support, the parts being so arranged that the sewing mechanism may be .moved about said pivotal means into, an inoperative relation to the upper overworking means.

6. In a lasting machine, the combination -with means for working an upper over a last including grippers, of sewing mechanism for securing the upper in overworked position, a support therefor, and pivotal means sustaining said support for movements to carry the sewing mechanism into and out of operativerelation to the grippers.

7. In a lasting machine, the combination withmeans for working an upper over a last including grippers, of sewing mechanism for securing the upper 'in overworked position, a support thereto-r, pivotal means sustaining said support for movements to carry the sewing-mechanism toward and from the grippers, and means for locking said support in the desired position.

8. In a lasting machine, the combination with means for working an upper over a mechanisms operative or inoperative at will.

9. In a lasting machine, the combination with means for working an upper over a last, of mechanism for supplying and driving fastenings to secure the upper in overworked position at the heel, and sewing mechanism for securing the upper in overworked position at the sides of the shoe.

10. In a lasting machine, the combination with means for working an upper over a last, of mechanism for supplying and driving individual fastenings', mechanism for producing a line of stitches, and means whereby either'of said mechanisms may be rendered operative or inoperative atwill.

11. In a lasting machine, the combination with upper overworking means including per in position at the heel, means for producing a line of stitches to secure the upper in position at the sides, means for supplying wire to secure the upper in position at the toe of a shoe, and means under the control of the operator whereby the tack-supplying means and the stitch-producing means may be rendered operative or inoperative at will. 13. In a lasting machine, the combination with, upper over-working mechanism, of means for forming stitches to secure the upper in position at the sides of a shoe, means for. supplying wire to secure the upper in position at the toe of a shoe, and means under control of the operator for rendering the first-nan1ed means operative or inoperative at will.

14. In a machine of the class described. the combinatiton with mechanism for working an upper over a last, including grippers arranged for normal operation upon thei' prier, actuating devices therefor, and means for supporting the necdlecarribr for movements in a plane inclined to the plane occupied by the bottom of the lastwhcn said last is presented to the ovcrworking meclmnism. 15. In a machine of the class described, the combination with mechanism for working an upper over a last, of means for securing the overworked upper to the lip v the combination with grippers and means for imparting updraw and overdraw movements to the grippers to work an upper over a last, of means for uniting said upper and a welt to the innersole,

l7. In'a machine of the class described, the combination with grippers and means for imparting updraw and overdraw movements to the grippers to work an upper over a last, of means to facilitate the application of a welt to the overworked upper, and means for uniting the upper and welt to the innersole.

18. In a machine of the class described, the combination with grippers and means for imparting updraw and overdraw movementsto the grippers to work an upper over a last, of means to facilitate the application of a welt to the overworked upper, and means for uniting the upper and welt to the innersole at a sin le operation. Y

19. In a machine oi the class described, the combination with grippers and means for imparting updraw and overdraw movements to the grippers to work an upper overa last, bf means to facilitate the application of a welt to the overworked upper, and means for uniting the upper and welt to the innersole by a line of stitches.

20. In a machine of the class described, the combination with grippers and means for imparting updraw and overdraw movements to the grippers to Work an upper over a last, of a welt guide located in position to direct a welt in superposed relation to the overworked upper, and means for uniting the upper and welt to the innersole.

21. In a machine of the class described, the combination with grippers. and means for imparting updraw and over-draw movements to the grippers to work anupper over a last, of a welt guide located in position to direct a welt in superposed relation to the overworked upper, and sewing mecha nism constructed and arranged to unite the upper and welt to the lip of the innersole by a continuous line of stitches extending along the sides and around the toe of the shoe.

22. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for working an upper over a last, of a guide for directing a welt in superposed relation to the overworked upper, and means forsecuring the upper and welt to the innersole, said welt' guide being arranged for movement to carry it into or out of operative relation with the securing means. I

23. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for working an upper over a last, of a pivotally sustained guide for directing a welt in superposed relation to the overworked upper, and means for securing the upper and welt to the innersole.

24. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for working an upper overa last, of a guide for directing a welt in superposed relation to the overworked upper, means for supporting said guide whereby it may be positioned in operative relation with the securing mechanism,

or out of operative relation therewith,

means for holding the guide in either of said positions, and means for securing the upper and welt to the innersole.

25. In a machine of the class described,

the combination of grippers and means for' imparting updraw and overdraw movements to the grippers to work an upper over a last, means for supplying a welt in superposed relation to the overworked upper, vsewing mechanism including a needle for uniting the upper and welt'to the lip of an innersole, and means for supporting the welt and upper against the thrust of the needle during the sewing operation.

26. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for working an upper over an innersole on a last, including grippers and actuating mechanism there-for, of means for guiding a welt to position upon the overworked upper, and means for uniting the upper and welt to the innersole.

27. In a machine of the class described, the combination'with means for working an upper over a lipped innersole on a last, including grippers and actuating mechanism therefor, of means for guiding a welt to position upon the overworked upper, and sewing mechanism for uniting the upper and welt to'the lip' of the innerso'le as the lasting operation progresses. I

QSQIn a machine of the class described, the combination with grippers and actuating means to impart updraw and overdraw movements to the grippers for working an upper into lasted position against the lip of an innersole, of means for guiding a welt to the overworked upper, and means for securing the upper and welt to the lip by fastenings applied as the lasting operation progresses.

29. A machine of the class described having, in combination, lasting mechanism,

the-combination with lasting means, of sewing mechanism including a needle carrier I inclined to the substantially horizontal plane occupied by the last bottom when the upper is presented to the lasting means, and a support for said carrier movable into and out of operative relation to said means.

31. In a machine of the class described, the combination with lasting means, of a support having a pivot permitting it to swing toward and from said means, a needle carrier on said support movable in a plane which is inclined to said pivot, actuating means for the needle carrier, and thread supplying means for the needle on said carrier.

32.,In amachine of the class described, the combination with lasting means including grippers and mechanism to operate the grippers to pull the upper over the last bot- .tom and to plait or fold laterally the overdrawn upper to dispose of the fullness thereof around the toe, of sewing mechanism for securing the overdrawn and plaited upper to the innersole and including a needle located on that lateral side of the central position of, the grippers-toward which the plaits are formed in position to insert a stitch through the plait.

33. In a machine of the class described, the combination with lasting means including grippers and mechanism to operate the grippers to pull the upper, and devices which can be rendered operative at times to form plaitsin the pulled upper, of sewing mechanism including a needle and a looper operating in time relation with the operative movements of said plaiting devices to stitch through the plaits formed in the upper.

34;. In a machine for drawing an upper into position to be fastened to a lipped innersole withthe aid of a welt and alternatively without the interposition of a welt, the combination with mechanisms for manipulating the upper into position to be fastened and for fastening the upper, including a sewing mechanism, of a welt guide pivotally mounted at one side of the sewing mechanism andv movable into and out of operative position for guiding the welt into the path of the sewing mechanism and having PI'OVlSlOIl for maintaining it during successive operations oft-he machine in either its operative or its inoperative position.

35. A gripper lasting and sewing machine having, in combination, a gripper; operating mechanism to ,cause the gripper to seize and updraw the upper and draw it inwardly over an innersole having a feather and a lip or shoulder to which the upper ism be secured; and sewing mechanism including a curved needle arranged to penetrate the work by a movement through the innersole lip or shoulder outwardly into the up er held by the grippers bridged from the eather edge over the lip or shoulder of the innersole and to set the stitch on its return stroke whereby the upper is penetratetd at a distance-from the lip or shoulderand is tightened as itis drawn by the stitch against said lip or shoulder.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

JAMES CAVANAGH, JR.

Witnesses:

JAMES DoNAHoE, ARTHUR L. RUSSELL.

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