US2115907A

US2115907A - Welt guide

Info

Publication number: US2115907A
Application number: US733375A
Authority: US
Inventors: Engel Karl
Original assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Current assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Priority date: 1934-07-02
Filing date: 1934-07-02
Publication date: 1938-05-03
Anticipated expiration: 1955-05-03

Description

earcn 00% 0 1 q l 1. E Q 9 U 7 F I 8 4 O 1 K. ENGEL WELT GUIDE May 3, 1938.

Filed July 2. 1934 2 Sheets-Sheet l 54 Tig. 5.-

Mama

H2. SEWING MACHlNE-S.

Search Room May 3, 1938. ENGEL 2,115,907

WELT GUIDE Filed July 2. 1934 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 WWW Jwh f Patented May 3, 1938 PATENT OFFICE wants some Karl Engel, Swampscott,

orto

Mass, assign United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J., acorporation of New Jersey Application July 2, 1934, Serial No. 733,375

34 Claims.

The present invention relates to work supporting and guiding mechanism and is illustrated as embodied in mechanism for supporting and guiding an upper, an outsole-attaching welt and an insole-attaching welt in the manufacture of a novel prewelted shoe which is the subject-matter of United States Letters Patent No. 2,065,569, granted December 29, 1936, on an application of the present applicant filed concurrently herewith.

It is an object of the present invention to provide work supporting and guiding mechanism whereby an upper and a plurality of welts may be guided relatively to each other and relatively to a fastening inserting mechanism without requiring the exercise of skill or a high degree of care by the workman. It is a further object of I the invention to provide an improved welt guid- 1 ing mechanism, for use particularly in the manu- 2 facture of pre-welted shoes, whereby the welt may be arranged to extend outwardly from the upper in order to facilitate the lasting and outsole-attaching operations.

Features of the invention consist of a welt guiding mechanism comprising means constructed and arranged to control the line of motion of a welt relatively to the needle of a sewing machine, anarm provided with a rolled portion for engaging and controlling the line of motion of a corded-edged welt, and means operating in the space between the first-mentioned welt and the upper and adjacent to the path of movement of the needle to increase the space between the outer margin of the welt and the upper. As herein illustrated the welt guiding mechanism provides a guide for an outsole-attaching welt and an insole-attaching welt. The illustrated guide for the outsole-attaching welt consists of a member constructed and arranged to position the welt relatively to the needle and the work support of having a horizontal portion extending across the seam line, the portion of said member adjacent to its horizontal portion being disposed at an acute angle to the work support whereby the welt is bent outwardly from the upper in order to facilitate the lasting and sole attaching operations. Substantially the same arrangement of the outsole-attaching welt and upper may be obtained by an alternative work supporting and v guiding mechanism herein illustrated comprising a work table, a welt guideway provided therein and an upper supporting member constructed and arranged to position the upper at an acute a shoe sewing machine, said member being disposed transversely of the direction of feed and,

angle to the plane of the outsole-attaching welt transversely thereof.

These and other features of the invention will now be described with reference to the accompanying drawings and will be pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a welt guide embodying features of the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the welt guide illustrated in Fig. l with a fragment of work mounted therein;

Fig. 3 is an enlarged sectional elevation taken substantially on the line IHIII of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is anenlarged sectional elevation taken substantially on the line IVIV of Fig. 2;

Fig. 5 is an enlarged sectional perspective view taken on the line V-V of Fig. 2, showing the arrangement of the work parts after the stitching operation;

Fig. 6 is an exploded perspective view illustrating an alternative welt guiding mechanism;

Fig. 7 is a plan view of the mechanism illustrated in Fig. 6 with a fragment of a work-piece mounted therein;

Fig. 8 is-a sectional elevation taken substantially on the line VIII-VIII of Fig. 8;

Fig. 9 is a sectional side elevation taken substantially on the line IX-IX of Fig. 8; and I Fig. 10 is a sectional perspective view taken on the line X-X of Fig. 8 and showing the arrangement of the work parts after the stitching operation.

The present invention provides a welt guiding mechanism for use particularly in the manufacture of a novel pre-welted shoe which is the subject-matter of United States letters Patent No. 2,065,569, above referred to. The novel prewelted shoe, as herein illustrated, is provided with an outsole-attaching welt 20 (Fig. 5) which, as it comes from the welt guide of the present invention, is disposed at an acute angle to the adjacent portion of an upper 22. Disposed between the welt 20 and the upper 22 is an insole-attaching welt 24 having its corded edge 26 arranged within the welt crease defined by the welt 20 and upper 22 and positioned substantially adjacent to the seam 28 which unites the welts to the upper. The welt 24 extends inwardly of the shoe from the seam 28 and in the finished shoe is secured to the insole, for example, by adhesive.

Referring now to Fig. 1, the welt guiding mechanism consists of a member 30 made of sheet material, for example, hardened steel, having an arm 32 extending laterally therefrom and shaped to provide a guideway for the outsole-attaching welt and having an arm 34 constructed and arranged to provide a guideway for the insoleattaching welt. As herein illustrated, the member 36 is secured to the presser post 36 of a chain stitch sewing machine of the familiar Puritan type in which a straight needle 64 moves upwardly from beneath the work table 46 and through a slot 65 (Fig. 2) formed in the table, the needle being arranged for movement lengthwise of the slot in order to feed the work. The longitudinal median line of the slot 65 defines the seam line or line of feed of the sewing machine. The member 36 extends forwardly from the presser post 36 in parallel relation to the feed slot 65. The arm 32 extends laterally from the body portion of the member 36, the portion of said arm adjacent to the body portion of the member 36 providing a horizontal support 38 for the stitch-receiving margin of the outsole-attaching welt. The horizontal support 38, as shown in Fig. 3, extends slightly beyond the seam line and from that point the arm 32 inclines upwardly and to the left, said inclined surface extending slightly beyond the outer edge face 39 of the welt 26. The remaining portion of the arm 32 provides an end wall 42 and an upper wall 44 of the welt guideway. A flange 46 is formed in the end of the arm 32 and located in a vertical alinement with the seam line, said flange being arranged for guiding engagement within the stitchreceiving groove 48 of the outsole-attaching welt in order to position said groove for the reception of the seam. The arm 34 which provides the guideway for the insole-attaching welt is arranged.to form two vertical

upstanding walls

56 and 52 which provide a channel for the reception of the inner portion 54 of the insole-attaching welt 24 (Fig. 3) arranged to bend the inner portion 54 upwardly in order to position it for engagement with the upper gaging member 62 (Fig. 4) as the work is fed through the machine. The arm 34 extends laterally from the bottom of the wall 52 in order to provide a horizontal welt supporting surface 56 (Fig. 1) extending across the seam line and spaced below the under surface of the arm 32 a distance slightly greater than the thickness of the welt 24 (Fig. 3). The end of the arm 34 is rolled as indicated at 58 in Fig. 3 in order to provide a tubular guideway for the corded portion 26 of the insole-attaching welt 24, said guideway being left open. adjacent to the body portion of the arm 34 in order to provide the necessary clearance for the double thickness of the welt 24 adjacent to its corded portion. In order to provide means for applying pressure to the upper adjacent to the stitching point and means for preventing upward movement of the welts as the needle passes through the work in the course of its upward stroke, the

arms

32 and 34, as shown in Fig. 2, are arranged with their rearward edge faces substantially adjacent to the needle 64.

Referring now to Fig. 6, illustrating an alternative welt guiding mechanism, the numeral 66 indicates a work table. Formed in the work table is a surface 68 for supporting the outsole-attaching welt 26, said surface inclining upwardly in the direction of the feed. To its right the surface 68 terminates in a vertical wall I6 arranged parallel to the line of feed, which in the table 66, is defined by a feed slot 69. The distance of the wall I6 from the slot 69 is such that when the inner edge face of a welt, for example the welt I2 illusment with said wall the stitch-receiving groove 14 formed in the flesh side of the welt is arranged centrally of the slot 69 widthwise thereof.

The welt I2 as it is fed through the machine is held against the wall I6 by an adjustable welt guiding member I6 which provides a vertical wall 84 which may be arranged for guiding engagement with the outer edge face of the welt, as shown in Fig. 89. In order to accommodate different widths of welting the member I6 is arranged for adjustment transversely of the line of feed. In the illustrated construction the member I6 is provided with a horizontal arm I8 which is secured to the under surface of the work table 66 by clamping screws 86 which extend through slots 82 provided in said arm. The free end of the member I6 provides a wall 86 arranged in parallel relation to the arm I8. In the illustrated construction the wall 86 serves a double purpose. Primarily it provides an abutment for limiting upward movement of the welt during the upward stroke of the needle and with this purpose in view the wall 86 is extended in the direction of the feed in order to position its rearward extremity above the needle as the needle moves upwardly through the work, the wall 86 being notched as indicated at 81 (Fig. 6) in order to provide clearance for the needle.

secondarily, the wall 86 provides a work support for the outer marginal portion of an insoleattaching welt, for example the welt 88 illustrated in Fig. 8. Cooperating with the wall 86 as the work support for the insole-attaching welt there is provided in the work table 66 a surface 96 which inclines upwardly in the direction of the feed, said surface terminating at the left side thereof, as seen in Fig. 6, in the vertical wall I6 extending downwardly therefrom, and at its right in a vertical wall 92 extending upwardly therefrom. The surface 96 is substantially a continuation of the wall 86, said wall and surface together forming a plane work support for the insole-attaching welt. In order to position the corded edge 94 of the insole-attaching welt 88 adjacent to and to the left of the seam line as seen in Fig. 8 an arm 96 is pivoted to the upper surface of the work table 66 and provided with an adjustable extension 98 arranged to overlie the insole-attaching welt when the arm 96 is in its operative position as illustrated in Fig. 8, said extension being provided with a concave guideway I66 disposed transversely of the arm 96 for the reception of the corded edge 84 of the insoleattaching welt. The operating position of the arm 96 is determined by the forward edge face of a work gage I62 secured to the upper surface of the work table 66 and arranged for guiding engagement with the upper I64 as shown in Fig. 8. The gage member I62 provides a stop for the arm 96 as it is swung in a clockwise direction from its inoperative position as indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 7 .to bring it into its operative position as indicated in full lines in Fig. 7. When the arm 96 is in its operative position the concave guideway I66 overlies the horizontal wall 86 of the member I6. As illustrated in Fig. 9 the guideway I66 is substantially horizontal while the wall 86 inclines upwardly in the direction of the feed. At its end nearest the stitching point the guideway I66 is so positioned relatively to the wall 86 that the guideway and the wall together form a passage of substantially the same size and shape as the corded edge of the insole-attaching Welt 88 while the member 98 is positioned above trated in Fig. 8, is brought into guiding engage-the surface 96 of the work table to the extent of the thickness of the welt adjacent to its corded edge. At its end farthest from the stitching point the guideway I00 is so positioned relatively to the wall 86 that the corded edge of the insoleattaching welt extends slightly into the guideway but is sufiiciently out of contact therewith so that there isjno appreciable resistance to the feeding of the insole-attaching welt until it arrives at the end of the guideway nearest the stitching point. Thus it will be seen that the insole-attaching welt as it travels upwardly upon the upwardly inclined wall 86 progressively enters the guideway I00 until it arrives at the end of said guideway nearest the stitching point where the corded edge of the welt is engaged between the guideway and the wall 86 in order to guide the welt relatively .to the needle.

The upper I04 is supported, adjacent to the stitching point, upon a work support I08 which is normally arranged at an acute angle to the outsole-attaching welt I2 illustrated in Fig. 8. The work support I06, as shown in Fig. 8, is extended from the inner extremity of its inclined work-supporting surface horizontally outwardly beyond the vertical plane of the wall 84 and then vertically downwardly adjacent to the wall 84 and slightly beyond the horizontal plane of the arm I8. As illustrated, the work support I06 is pivoted to a horizontal plate II4 (Fig. 6) by means of a pivot pin II2 arranged to extend through the rolled ends of lugs H0 and H6 extending downwardly from the work support I06 and the plate II4, respectively, the lugs II6 being arranged between and adjacent to the lugs I I0 in order to prevent widthwise movement of the work support I06 relatively to the plate II4. As illustrated, the plate H4 is secured to the under surface of the work table 66 by the screws 80 which clamp the welt guiding member I6 to the work table. The work support I06 is yieldingly held in operative position by a torsion spring II8 coiled about the pivot pin H2 and having its ends extended in opposite directions in order to underlie, respectively, the plate H4 and a hori zontal arm I20 extending outwardly from the work support I06.

Referring now to the method of assembling a outsole-attaching welt, an insole-attaching welt and an upper with the aid of the welt guiding mechanism illustrated in Fig. 1, the presser post 36 is lifted in the usual way in order to permit the upper to be placed on the work table 40 with its edge face in engagement with the upper gaging member 62. The presser post is then brought down into operative position, the bottom surface of the arm 34 operating as a presser foot to press the upper against the work table. The outsoleattaching welt 20 is then arranged with its flesh s'ide uppermost and slid into the guideway provided by the arm 32, the groove in the welt being arranged to receive the flange 46. The insoleattaching welt 24 is then slid into the guideway provided by the arm 34 and its corded edge is passed through the tubular guideway provided by the rolled end 58 of the arm 34. After both welts have been brought up to the stitching point the machine is started and the stitching operation commences. As the stitching operation progresses about the periphery of the upper all that is required of the operator is to hold the edge of the upper in contact with the upper gaging member 62 since the insole-attaching welt and outsoleattaching welt are guided without the aid of the operator relatively to each other and relatively to the stitch forming mechanism. As the end of the stitching operation approaches, the operator cuts of! the insole-attaching welt and the outsole attaching welt each at the proper point to cause the ends of the respective welts to come into engagement with each other at the completion of the stitching operation. Preferably the ends of the welt are cut on a bevel in order to provide an inconspicuous joint between the welt butts. As the portion of the work where the stitching operation began comes up tothe arm 34 the operator guides the assembled parts beneath said arm in order to permit the welt butts to pass through the stitching point together. to complete the stitching operation and to give the appearance of an endless welt stitched to the periphery of the upper.

In assembling an outsole-attaching welt, an insole-attaching welt and an upper with the aid of the welt guiding mechanism illustrated in Fig. 6, the parts are arranged as illustrated in Fig. 8 with the upper positioned above the insoleattaching welt and with the outsole-attaching welt arranged with its grain side uppermost beneath the insole-attaching welt. As the point of operation progresses about the periphery of the upper the parts are pressed together at the stitching point by the usual sewing machine presser foot (not shown) and the upper is positioned relatively to the welts by the engagement of its edge face with the gage member I02. As the portion of the work where the stitching operation began approaches the stitching point the operator swings the arm 96 into its inoperative position as indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 7. The operator then cuts off the insole-attaching welt and the outsole-attaching welt as above described and as the stitching operation continues the advancing ends of the welt are guided as a unit upon the upper surface of the wall 86 in order to permit the welt butts to pass through the stitching point togetherto complete the stitching operation and to give the appearance of an endless welt stitched to the periphery of the upper. In assembling the parts with the aid of the welt guiding mechanism illustrated in Fig. 8, the loops of the chain stitch uniting the parts are located in the groove of the welt, leaving only a single length of thread exposed in the inside of the shoe. Another advantage of the organization illustrated in Fig. 8 resides in the fact that the operator's view of the upper is unobstructed and consequently the upper may be guided relatively to the stitch forming mechanism and the welts with ease and certainty. When a counter is assembled together with the upper and the welts at the heel end of the shoe it is desirable to have the upper and the counter substantially horizontal at the stitching point as the point of operation progresses about the heel end of the shoe. In order to bring the upper and the counter into the desired horizontal position at the stitching point the arm I20 (Fig. 8) is swung downwardly in order to bring the work support I06 into its inoperative position as indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 8.

While the work supporting and guiding means of the present invention has been illustrated and described in its relation to the manufacture of a pre-welted shoe provided with an insole-attaching welt and an outsole-attaohing welt, each of which extends throughout the entire periphery of the shoe, it is to be understood that the illustrated mechanism is not limited to use in the manufacture of such shoes but, on the contrary, it may be employed to advantage in the manufacture of av pre-welted shoe provided with an insole-attaching welt and an outsole-attaching welt, either or both of which are not extended about the entire periphery of the shoe. Furthermore, the illustrated work supporting and guiding mechanism may be employed in the manufacture of shoes provided with either an insoleattaching welt or an outsole-attaching welt but not both. It is of course obvious that if the device illustrated in Fig. 1 is employed in the manufacture of pre-welted shoes which are not provided with an insole-attaching welt, the arm 34 could be omitted and the member 30 could be terminated at the forward extremity of the arm 32.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. Welt guiding mechanism for use in securing to an upper a corded-edged insole-attaching welt and an oritsole-attaching welt, said mechanism comprising a welt guiding member constructed and arranged to engage the corded-edged insoleattaching welt by its corded edge and to control the line of motion of the welt relatively to the needle of a sewing machine, and a member constructed and arranged to space the outsole-attaehing welt and the upper from each other in the region of the outer margin of said outsoleattaching welt.

2. A welt guide for guiding an outsole-attaching welt provided with a stitch-receiving groove and a corded-edged insole-attaching welt relatively to the needle of a shoe sewing machine, said welt guide consisting of a piece of sheet material provided with an arm which is bent to form a guideway for the outsole-attaching welt, the end of said arm being provided with a flange arranged for engagement within the stitch-receiving groove, said welt guide being further provided with an arm constructed and arranged to provide a guideway for the insole-attaching welt, the end of said arm being rolled for guiding engagement with the corded edge of the welt.

3. A welt guide for guiding an outsole-attaching welt and an insole-attaching welt relatively to the needle of a straight needle shoe sewing machine, said welt guide consisting of a piece of sheet material secured to the presser post of the sewing machine and constructed and arranged to provide an arm extending from the presser post in a direction opposite to the direction of feed, said arm having a member extending hori-- zontally outward therefrom across the seam line, then bending upwardly approximately 30 to form a guideway for the portion of the welt extending outwardly from the seam line, the end portion of said member being arranged above said inclined portion to form the upper wall of said guideway, said arm being further provided with an extension which provides a guideway having a horizontal portion intersecting the seam line and having a vertical portion for the reception of the inner portion of the insole-attaching welt.

4. A welt guide for guiding an outsole-attaehing welt and an insole-attaching welt relatively to each other and relatively to the needle of a straight needle shoe sewing machine, said welt guide comprising a member secured to the presser post of the sewing machine and provided with guideways for said welts arranged to position the insole-attaching welt beneath the outsole-attaching welt with the outer margin of the former adjacent to the inner margin of the latter.

5. A welt guide for guiding an outsole attaehing welt and an insole-attaching welt comprising a member secured to the presser post of a sewing machine and provided with welt guiding means constructed and arranged to engage the outsoleattaching welt and to position it relatively to the needle and provided also with welt guiding means constructed and arranged to engage the insoleattaching welt and to position said insole-attaching welt relatively to the needle and relatively to the width of the outsole-attaching welt.

6. A welt guide for positioning a grooved welt relatively to the needle and the work support of a shoe sewing machine, said guide comprising a piece of sheet material secured to the work pressing element of the sewing machine and arranged to guide the groove of the welt into the path of movement of the needle, to position the major portion of the welt transversely thereof at an acute angle to the support, and to position that margin of the welt which is adjacent to the groove, parallel to the work support in the direction of the width of the welt, the free end of said welt guide being provided with a flange constructed and arranged for engagement within the groove of the welt.

'7. A work support for guiding an outsole-attaching welt, an insole-attaching welt, and a shoe upper relatively to the needle of a shoe sewing machine comprising a table on the column of the sewing machine, said table being provided with a closed guideway for the outsole-attaching welt arranged to position a marginal portion of the latter welt in the path of the needle, a support for the upper above said closed guideway, and a guideway for the insole-attaching welt arranged to position said welt between the outsoleattaching welt and the upper.

8. A welt guide for a corded-edged welt having a tubular guideway for the corded edge of the welt and an upstanding channel for the reception of the portion of the welt opposite its corded edge.

9. A welt guide for a corded-edged welt comprising a piece of sheet material constructed and arranged to provide a guideway for the corded edge of the welt, a horizontal support for the marginal portion of the welt adjacent to its corded edge, and a vertical channel for the remaining portion of the welt.

10. A welt guide comprising a piece of sheet material constructed and arranged to provide a horizontal support for a marginal portion of the welt, and a vertical channel for the remaining portion of the welt.

11. A welt guide comprising a sheet metal member constructed and arranged for attachment to the presser post of a sewing machine and formed to provide a horizontal support for a portion of the welt, and an upstanding channel for the reception of the remaining portion of the welt.

12. A welt guide comprising a sheet metal member constructed and arranged for attachment to the presser post of a sewing machine and formed to provide ahorizontal support intersecting the seam line and arranged to receive a marginal portion of the welt, and an upstanding channel for the reception of the remaining portion of the welt.

13. A welt guide for a corded-edged welt comprising a sheet metal member constructed and arranged for attachment to the presser post of a sewing machine and formed to provide a tubular guideway for the corded edge of the welt, a horizontal support for the marginal portion of the welt adjacent to its corded edge, and an upstanding channel for the reception of the remaining portion of the welt.

14. A welt guide for a corded-edged welt comprising a sheet metal member constructed and arranged for attachment to the presser post of a sewing machine and formed to provide a tubular guideway adjacent to the seam line for guiding the corded edge of the welt, a horizontal support intersecting the seam line and arranged to receive the marginal portion of the welt adjacent to its corded edge, and an upstanding channel for the reception of the remaining portion of the welt.

15. A sewing machine work support provided with two guideways arranged at different elevations, the left marginal portion of one of said guideways overlying the right marginal portion of the other guideway at the seam line, the major portions of said guideways being located respectively at opposite sides of the seam line.

16. A sewing machine work support provided with two covered guideways arranged at different elevations, the cover 01' the lower guideway providing a portion of the work supporting surface of the upper guideway, said cover being constructed and arranged to extend partially about the path of movement of the needle in order to prevent the needle from lifting the work as it passes upwardly through it.

17. A sewing machine work support provided with two covered guideways inclined upwardly in the direction of feed and arranged at different positions transversely of the direction of feed, said guideways being arranged at different elevations, the cover of the lower guideway providing a portion of the work supporting surface of the upper guideway.

18. A sewing machine work support provided with two guideways arranged at different elevations, a fixed cover for the lower guideway constructed and arranged to provide a portion of the work supporting surface of the upper guideway, and a removable cover for the upper guideway.

19. A sewing machine work support provided with two guideways arranged at different elevations, a fixed cover for the lower guideway constructed and arranged to provide a portion of the work supporting surface of the upper guideway, and a removable cover for the upper guideway provided with a work-guiding groove.

20. A welt guide for guiding a corded-edged welt comprising a work-supporting table upon which the welt is fed and a member having a concavity within which the corded-edged portion of the welt is received, the portion of said member adjacent to its concavity being spaced above said table to an extent slightly less than the diameter of the corded-edged portion of the welt.

21. A welt guide for guiding a corded-edged welt supported upon a work table comprising an arm movable on the table and provided with a guideway disposed transversely of the arm and arranged, when the arm is in operative position, to receive the corded edge of the welt.

22. Welt guiding mechanism for guiding a corded-edged welt comprising a work table provided with a weltsupporting surface and an arm mounted on said table and provided with a guideway disposed in convergent relation to said welt supporting surface and arranged to receive the corded edge of the welt.

23. Welt guiding mechanism for guiding a comprising a welt guide and upper supporting means constructed and arranged to position the upper at an acute angle to the plane of the welt transversely thereof.

25. Work supporting and guiding mechanism comprising a work table, a welt guideway provided therein, and an upper supporting member constructed and arranged to position the upper at an acute angle to the plane of the welt transversely thereof.

26. Work supporting and guiding mechanism comprising a work table, a welt guideway provided therein, and an upper supporting member pivoted to said table and yieldingly held in position tosupport the upper at an acute angle to the plane of the welt transversely thereof, said member being provided with an arm whereby it may be swung out of operative position.

27. Welt guiding mechanism comprising means constructed and arranged to control the line of motion of a welt relatively to the needle of a sewing machine, an arm provided with a rolled portion for engaging and controlling the line of motion of corded-edged welt, and means operating in the space between the first-mentioned welt and the upper and adjacent to the path of movement of the needle to increase the space between the outer margin of the welt and the upper.

28. A welt guide comprising an arm constructed and arranged to position a welt relatively to the needle of a sewing machine, and another arm provided with a rolled portion arranged parallel to the line of feed and arranged to engage and to guide a corded-edged welt by its corded edge only.

29. A welt guide comprising an arm constructed and arranged partially to embrace a welt and to position the welt relatively to the needle of a sewing machine, and another arm provided with a rolled portion arranged parallel to the line of feed and arranged to register accurately with the corded edge 01 a corded-edged welt.

30. A welt'guide comprising two arms one of which underlies the other and both of which are arranged substantially adjacent to the path of movement of a needle during its advancing stroke, one of said arms being provided with a rolled portion arranged parallel to and adjacent to the seam line and arranged to engage and to guide a corded-edged welt by its corded edge only.

31. A welt guide for guiding an outsole-attaching welt and a corded-edged insole-attaching welt comprising two arms, one above the other, both of said arms being arranged adjacent to the path of movement of a needle of a sewing machine during the advancing stroke of the needle, one of said arms being constructed and arranged partially to embrace an outsole-attaching welt while the other arm is provided with a rolled portion arranged parallel to and adjacent to the seam line and constructed and arranged to receive the corded edge of the insole-attaching welt thereby guiding the welt and positioning it relatively to the seam line.

32. A welt guide for guiding an outsole-attachcorded-edged welt comprising a work table proing welt provided with a stitch-receiving groove and a corded-edged insole-attaching welt comprising two arms, one above the other, both of said arms being arranged adjacent to the path of movement of a needle of a sewing machine during its advancing stroke, the arm for guiding the outsole-attaching welt being provided with a member constructed and arranged for guiding engagement within the stitch-receiving groove and the arm for guiding the insole-attaching welt being constructed and arranged partially to embrace said corded edge and to guide said welt thereby.

33. A welt guide for use in the manufacture of shoes comprising a member constructed and arranged to position the welt relatively to the needle and the work support of a shoe sewing machine, said member being disposed transversely of the direction of feed and having a horizontal portion extending across the seam line, the portion or said member adjacent to its horizontal portion being disposed at an acute angle to the work support.

34. A welt guide for use in the manufacture of shoes comprising a member secured to the work presser of a shoe sewing machine and constructed and arranged partially to embrace the welt and to position the welt relatively to the needle and the work support of the sewing machine, said member comprising a strip of sheet material disposed transversely of the direction of feed, said strip having a narrow horizontal portion extending across the seam line, the portion of said strip adjacent to its horizontal portion being disposed at an angle of approximately 30 to the support.

KARL ENGEL.