US1635852A - Shoe - Google Patents

Description

` the heel-seat are not removed at' all since Patented July 12, 1927.

LAUBIE s. MAcDoNA neiTD JsELrH E SMALL, oi; ocxm N,

i i massenuseh's, AS-

sGN Rs TO TH SON BRs. SHOE co., O BRocx''oN, MAS ACHUSE' S, &Con

VPORATION oF M ssAcHUsET'Ts.

sEoE;

bblictibn 'filed o'ctot'e'r 27, 1925. serzii N? 655153'.

This invention relates to the art of making:

slides and is intended toprduee a Shoe of no'vel` construction partakng of the char'- Shoe as heretofore made. For example; in la'stin'g' a Welt* shoe ithas beenthe practice, after' the edge portion of the upper has been pulle d over the insole, to tack this'inturned edge to the insole to hold' it While t'he'welt", the" upper and the insole lip are bein etitched together. 'Often tacks close to the line' of stitching are left uri-noticed after theedge ot the upper beyond the in-sean is trinmed off, While the lasting tacks around the inseam and Welt' do not extend beyond the shank portion; Hence it often happens that l'astingtackswork throughthe insole',

causing njury and dsconfort to the foot of the Wearer. i The gatheringin or` p'ucke''in of the upper, Where it' is turned in aroun` the toe and around theheehtends to produce unevenness at those points.

into the insole bottonfltoraise a welt-'attaching lip and of stitching the heavy welt strip and* upper thei-eto often results in" produciig rdges or depressions which appear onthe top surface of the insole and frequently the line ot' the inseamstitching is ercep tible both to theeye and to the touc Thepresent invention obvates these and' other deficiencies hy sewing the upper directly to the peripheral face of the inner sole, and thereafter sewing the margnal portion of theouter sole directly tothe` (jut- Wardly turned`narginal`portion of the'uppe r outside of the first mentioned seem; which may be teri ed the nsea mfl Whereby'` the marginal portion of the upper functons as an integral welt for securely unitng the" innersole and the outer sole togethe No; r uneven rdges or hollows result, from tlis" mode of constructiom: entire freedom from lasting tacks s nsured since none are retained in the practice 'of this method.`

Moreover, asthe upper issewed directly to the perpheral or outside face of the insole,

it makes such atight j'oint'with' the outside face ol? the insole as to prevent the leakae of Water around the edge of the insole whic ot' course, can readily occur where& crack 7.. per phera l face' of theis left between the insole' and the adj acent art'of' the upperi These and other' `features of this invention` i Will' be described in the following s'pcific a tin' andwil l b e defined' lir-the claim heret():

annexed. i t t In the: accori'paiying drawing-s -w ha've illustr'ated the' construction of a' Shoe mad-e" in accordan'ce with our imprdved process;

in which:

Figure a perspective View of th shoe" upper and insole as assembl ed on .the last? and` united together by a roiw ofstitchiirg extending entirely around the periphery of* the insole; I g F i ure is a' cross sectional View through the orepa-rt of the complete shoe 'showin'g how the ma rg inal porti-n of the apper 'S enployed to fi ny unite both the insole andtlie out'e sole. V I F1gure-3 '1`s a crossseetionalview of the nner sole usedn' this process'. i v

Figur- 5 isa det'ai l; View showing the con structionof ai Shoe bottonhvng a single:

oter layer.-

-F'gur'e 4 'is ai bottom pjlirview ofithe in r sole provided Withthe inseamgroove Again the 'practice of channelingdeply' i sole Without an intermediate filling' tdth illustratin of the drawings,"we'prefer to employ the inner sole '1, of any usual'or ds red contour andsinewhat thicker than the 'insoles gena-'any 'employd for welt shoes.- I-'nstead'of the" usual deep channeling to rais a weltj-attaehing' lip on the' bottom stitclies which unit theiisle a''d'theupper tojetlier.'` I e e This ie'le 's %emm-a to the bottom of the last in the usual Way, and the upperg with with ut m uSu'a'l linin'g 3, is drawn over the last and the; edge of the insole or' the last` in* the usul mann'e'r, except' that the hee l portii of' the upperiswipe'd over`= the be cut slightly larger thanefor an ordinary welt Shoe to provide ample margin beyond the insole to serve as the integral attaching welt for uniting the inner sole and the outer sole together.

The upper is then stitched directly to the peripheral'tace of the inner sole by a row of stitches 4, which pass through or penetrate the peripheral face of the inner sole 1, as well as through the surrounding or contact ing portion ot' the upper, the seams penetrating as far as the inseam groove l If a toe-cap as shown at 5, and a stifl'ening counter as shown at 6, are used, which is ordinarily the case, they are, of course, interposed between the lining and the' upper in the usual manner, and the inseam stitching 4 passes throughthem as well as through the upper and the peripheral face of the inner sole.

The lining 3, When used, preferably terminates fiush with the exposed face of the inner sole l, leaving a marginal portion 2 of the upper which is free to be turned outwardly to receive the outer sole against its inside face.

If desired a filling layer 7, cut out from sheet material, such as sheet cork, or formed of plastic material spread over the bottom of the insole, may be employed.

In Figure 2 we have shown a double outer sole comprising layers 8 and 9 of sole leather or other *suitable material applied to the structure above described. In practice the outer sole, whether single or double, suitably dimensioned, is applied to the previously assenbled portion of the shoe and its marginal portion is stitched directly to the outwardly extending marginal portion Q of the upper by means of a row ofstitches 10, which row of stitches will preferably extend around the marginal portion of the heel seat as well as around the other portions of the sole in which respect it difiers from the ordinary welt shoe. e

It will, therefore, be seen that the entire bottom of the shoe, disregarding the subsequently attached heel, has uniform thickness throughout and is, therefore, perfectly level and free from ridges or hollowsthat ordinarily produce unevenness in an insole.

i The sole layers may, of course, be cemented together and the marginal welt portion 2 of the upper may also be cemented down to the outer sole. 4 p

In Figure 5 we have shown the process applied to a simpler form of shoe, namely, one having no intermediate filling layer and having only a single outer sole. In this case the pattern for the upper 2 may be cut slightly smaller than for the shoe Construction, shown in Figure 2, since there is no intermediate filling layer and the single outer sole 12 is stitched to the marginal portion 2 by a row of stitching 11 in exactly the sane way as previously described. The edge of the margnal portion 2 of the upper may be trimmed and finished at the same time the outer' sole is trimmed and finished so that the shoe has the appearance of a welt shoe, and except for certain objectionable features which are eliminated is, in efect, a welt shoe because the marginal portion of the upper functions precisely likea welt.

It will be understood that when the upper has been stitched against the periphery of the inner sole so as to leave the marginal portion of the upper 'orming a peripheral skirt beyond or outside of the seam any projecting portions of the box toe-cap 5, or of the stifiening counter 6, or of the lining 3,

may be trimmed off flush with the bottom or` exposed face of the insole As the rowof stitching 4 just fills the shallow groove l and as the marginal skirt 2 can be turned outward in the same plane as the bottom or exposed face of the insole, the outer sole will be fully supported, whether an intermediate filling layer of sheet or plastic material is used or not, and the stitches 4 serve as a common means of directly uniting and securing the upper, the lining, the stifiening counter, the box toe-cap and the insole together, since it extends around the entire periphery of the shoe. By using intermediate filling layers 7 of different thicknesses, the inseam 4 may be spaced at different distances from the out-seam 10, While by omittng such intermediate filling layer these two seams are located in very close juxta-position, giving substantally the appearance of a single seam'.

What we claim is:

A shoe embracing in its Construction an insole of extra thickness and an upper secured directly to the insole by stitches passing through the entire peripheral face of the insole and the sub-tending portion of the upper, a sheet of cork conforming to the con tour of the insole and covering its entire area but nclosed within the upper beyond the insole-attaching stitches, an outer sole dimensioned to provide a marginal extension projecting outwardly around the entire periphery of the shoe, the upper, beyond the insole stitching, having a marginal extension forming means for attaching the peripheral portion of the outsole to the shoe, and a row ofstitches uniting the projecting margns of the upper and of the outer sole around the entire periphery of the shoe.

In witness whereof, we have subscribed the above specification.

LAURIE S. MACDONALD. JOSEPHE. SMALL.

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