US1631385A - Sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

June 7', 1927.

2 Sheets-Sheet 1 F. RIC KS ET AL SEWING MACHINE Filed April 2. 1921 ,.frllllirll June 7', 1.927.

- l l 631385 F. RlcKs E1- AL SEWING MACHINE Filed April 2, 192x 2 sheets-sheet 2 Patented June 7, 192.7.

irse srarss man maxe am) ERNEST EDGAe Bresciana QF LEICESTER, ENGLAND, .AS-

sIGNoRs 'ro nrrrrnnsion vrfi;'Aoliliil'RY ,Conronnrrom or rnTEnsoN, NEWQJER- s EY, ii@ coaroianrron (on NEW JERSEY.

SEWING MACHINE] Application 'led April 2,;1921,\Seria1 No.V 457,931, andi'n GreatV BritainMay 31,n 1920.,

'invention relates to hooked needle.

' generically as shoes) and itis more especially concerned with ywelthandling mechanism in welt sewing ,machines..

The most highly developed formof ywelt sewing machine is ,equipped `with devices which can be thrown into. operation at the conclusion of sewingitoadvaiice a gripperto engage vthe welt near ,the sewingpoint. and to sever the weltso held, Vreleasingthe ,shoe andrretaining a hold ongthe end of the supply of welt-ing,'such devices being automatically operated at the beginning ofa fresh sewing operation to movealong the line of feed during the initial 'feed of the work vby the machine'and then to release the Awelt yand retire to inoperative position.

in the use Aof machines soequippedit has been known to. occur that thedevices for holding and severing the welt (which are tlii'own into operation by a pull on the welt) have come into operat-ionvat some undesired time as, forin'stance, owing to a pull applied to the welt when the machine was stopped at some time other than at the completion of the sewing of a welt, and it isone object of the inventionto provide means eliminating this source of possible inconvenience.

Again, 'the welt-holding gripper in a ma-` chine yhaving these devices requires to lhave its flower pivot adjusted if the thickness of weltsewii varies oo nsiderablyy in different classes of work, to lmaintaiiiapproximate parallelism of the jaws whenclosed on the welt and secure uniform gripping action. Another object of :the invention is toelimif nate as far as possible the need lforkadjusb" ment Y in this Y resp ect.

Yet again, these devices have been so organized that thelower gripper jaw ,received upward (gripperfclosing) movement .onlyhad attained aits advanced` position, with the result thatit 'has been.

after the gripper known to occur thatthe lower jaw in moving upwardly, scraped along v the surface of the shoevupperto thedetriment of the latter, It is yet anotherobject o fythe inventionto overcome this 4 disfads*antage.

-A feature of the invention contemplates the provision in a welt shoe sewing machine of poweroperated mechanism for severing the welt dependent Afonoperatioirupon the performance of .a 1plurality .of :separate 0p-v eratioiis on,th e .part of the operatorafterI the completion of the ,sewing operation.

Another feature of the .invent-ion contemplates the ,provision in a welt shoe sewing. Vmachine o fmeans for lio-ldingtheweltafter the1 completion of the ,sewing operation `comprisinga pair of welt gripping jaws pivoltallyV movablewith relation ,to each other, onelo-f which has weltengaging surface p0rt-ions longitudinally inclined Awith relation to G5 `each other to enable thejawsito uniformly f grip welts of different thicknesses.V

Another f eatureof L,the invention contemy' plates the provision in` a welt shoe sewing machine of power operated means lfor grippingthe welt after the completion of the sewing` operation coinprising'a pair of relatively movable welt gripping jaws, and

means for advancing the jaws toward rthe welt,.for partially closing the jaws' during said advancing ymovement and forcausing 4thejaws to grip the `welt at theend of the advancing movement, suchclosing ofthe aws during 'their advancing movement preferably being suflicient to cause theirends to llightly engagethe outer edge portionof the welt.

in the art from lthe 'ensuing description of'a preferred form of the 'inventienlas applied by Away of example, toa welt vsewing inachine ofthe type illustrated rand described in thepatent toTopham No. 1,099,326,

j In the accompanying drawings of this preferred formof the invention Theabove and other objects ofthe inven; i tion will become fully evidentto those skilled Figurel isa frontend elevation, partly f iin section, of a welt `shoelsewiiig machine eine bodyingtheseveral features of the invention in their preferred form; Fig.;v 2 is a plan view, partly Ain section, of a portion ofthe front end of the headof the machine; Fig; 3 is adetail plan view,- partly insection, show-v ing ythe welt guiding and ,measuring devices.

and VVcertain .parts cooperating' therewith; Figl isa sideelevation, partly lin section,

Iof the welt; :engaging 'end .of :the welt` cut- *Y .ting and holding device; Fig -5 is albottoin .plaiiwviewjof-the-portion of the welt cutting yandholdingdevice illustratedrinFig. 4l; and

Fig. V6 isa' detail sectional elevation ofthe'V f -,;welt measuring. devices.

, The `1m-a"chiiie.-illustrateiilf,in the drawings I is provided with the usual stitch forming devices comprising the curved hook needle 2, awl 4, and looper 5.

The main shaft 6 of the machine is normally V'driven by a belt pulley 7 fast' on the shaft and driven by a belt operated from a countershaft through a treadle-controlled friction clutch. to allow the clutch to open so that the belt ceases to drive theV pulley y7 alsoV throws in mechanism which slows down the main shaft and drives'it at low speed backwards to a definite stopping point. The brake and reverse drive mechanism comprises a clutch formed of a member 8 fast for rotation with but slidable along the main shaft, and a member 10 free to rotate on the main shaft butheld 'from movement axially thereof. The latter is continuously driven in a direction reverse to that in which the main shaft rotates during sewing. `A cam roll on a lever 12 pivoted lon the machine frame is engaged in a cam 14 on the hub of the mem-ber 8 and the lever carries in its other arm a recess 16 into which a plunger 18 (Figure 1) released (to rise under spring influence) by release of the clutch treadle can spring when the rotation of the shaft 6 brings the recess into proper position. The engagement of the plunger with the recess locks the lever 12 (which has been oscillating idly) and the member 8 is, by the cam 14, forced endwise to close the clutch 8, 10 which first causes a braking effect on the shaft and then a reverse rotation until a definite point is reached when the cam 14 automatically withdraws the member 8. To stop the machine shaft at the desired point, a stop cam 20 is fast on the main shaft and is engaged by a stop arm 22 raised into its path when the other arm 24 of the lever of which the stop arm forms part and which is pivoted at 26 is swung rearwardly of the machine on the reversal of the main shaft. is effected by a part 28 pivoted at one end to the arm 24 and having on its other end two segmental surfaces the upper of which, being theV nearer to the pivot of this part,

` normally rests on a sleeve fast on the main shaft. On the reversal of the main shaft a notch in this sleeve acts on the part 28 and rocks yit to raise it bringing its other segmental surfaceV against the sleeve and throwing the arm 24 backwards.

The welt passes to the welt guide at the sewing point round a rotary drum 30 (Figures 3 and 6) to which it is clamped firmly, when the machine is stopped, by a member 32 'pivoted to a rotary spindle 84. .This clamping is effected by a bell crank lever 36 having the end of one arm engaging the arm 24 and the end of'its other arm engaging a yielding plunger 38 (Figure 8). When the welt is thus clamped the withdrawal of the shoe rotates the spindle 34 and raises an The release of this treadlek This rearward movement is pivoted to arm 40 fast to it which by connections with a pawl 42 raises the latter to throw into action, as will be described, the welt cutting and welt end holding mechanism, the throwing in of this mechanism thus coming under the `control ofthe operator by movement of the 'shoe and the amount of welt which can be drawn through the welt guide before severance being definitely determined.

`The raising'of the pawl 42 allows movement of a roll-carrying ring 44 to close a roll clutch (the ring being urged in this drection by a spring not shown) 'connecting the member 10 with an eccentric free to rotate on the main shaft and surrounded by a` strap 46 connected to mechanism for rotating pinions 48, 50 fast on the same 'shaft 52 and operating the welt cutting and holding mechanism. A pawl 54 opens the roll clutch after `half a revolution of the eccentric so that the welt holding device remains in forward position holding the welt until, at the appropriate. time after the recommencement of sewing, a cam '56 lowers the pawl to release the ring 44 to complete its revolution and cause the welt holding mechanism to release the welt and return to normal position.

The welt cutting and holding mechanism comprises two rack bars 58 and 60, vthe former of which carries the iiXed jaw 62 (Figure 4) of the welt holding grppers and has pivoted to it the lower moving jaw 64 and the .latter of which carries the cutting knife. The two pinions 48, 50 advance these bars together until the jaws straddle the welt when the pinion 48, which is an interrupted pinion, ceases to'operate and the other drives the bar 60 forward relatively to the bar 58 to cause a cam 66 on' the bar 60 to close the jaws on the welt andl to cause theknife tov yadvance across the jaws to sever the welt.

The parts above described may be and preferably are the same, except as hereinafter described, as the corresponding parts Voit the machine illustrated and described in a lock nut 68 on a rod 70 passing loosely through an arm 72 fast tothe pawl 42 and having its other end pivoted at 74 to one end of a lever 76 on the same pivot 26 as the stop arm 22. The other end lof the lever 76 the upper end of a treadle rod 78. f

A stud '80 has pivoted on an eccentric portion thereof 82 a lever 84 having a -boss 86 to engage a corresponding boss 88 en the arm thefmeehme.Stepeheiveyee'endffin e@ ,d

atpits lower; end o-the vleyereets upon the 1a tient@ hold the: twefbses inl coeteet- I lm ygadditio this same epringraises theree'r-A Wardend of .the V le'ver. "6 Yto ,hold the mite down on, the arm l72 andthe treadle rod -7-8 passes. The lower-entlof theleyerf84 durf y 2li-f holding cleric@ has; We fiveltzerrgegingfaces 104 l IWhdllj .f'erevy helned with rele# tion to each other and are continuzitorie orf' l Figure -;4, sopthat'j a comparatively thi-IL andy narrow, Welt is tlie'upper @W169i by the face 102 and thieker Wider Weltigig is gripped to 'the f upperjaw bythe face 104,' the jew '6 4 heilig mounted er1. e pifot bjolt or ;piiijlw tor movement. in'clepeideritlyj of zuigarirll` lOS'JQalso mountedv on the pivot pin 106) i-,vliieliisfoon` nectedrtheretoby torsion Spring 11D ofs'ulof-Q eeirif oir the knife bary ,60 Aacting vo i ife,er0ll 1l4'moiig1ited- 102'i zuidA each' other, as shown fin gripped to stantial length so theirA i the on' tliegar-mplOSfeloses the devioe'orrwjelts @hie heme thelewer vrjew moreel@ tote gage the lowerr s urfaee-fofr the, Welt/f5. tlrepeam countered. ,Y

the Je-We 0n the A.Welt is heitere-re@ Smell @S dem G te p 'depress the ,Cre

pressiiig'tlie spripg fill@l use 4 lend, 1

'leve-1*, 84 nesting, ori thefeurfeeef96. t

Strength'a'e toiriekejjt,impossible by, ;sri'elfi,Iv y

jg() A lower; 64 'Off [thefwelt 1 that this eoristriitioii and fgay'rrengement thu'sq'veryging, irijehereeter' Wtli zi/ pressure tliglt. dif-Hers lou-blittlerin lthe diiierent eaeee Thegreletive m-aSeesp-ftlie armlOS'eridfjeW,

6 4 4are Spell tliatesgsoong-as, in the telve-ricey 0il theqbei- '58,1 a figfaee ,115 o ii thefarrrilO passes off oani.,p ijeee 116 Aliest onthe @niet- Y combination, etiteliyfoririiug devices, grrieeli- 'armeni lier severing j uste-r `errori-gli' forV the tipe ofthe jews to -lstradellie .tlie ,narroweetgweltz likelytovv be en 4 v The IMSS` eetngthue@ @lese Y irlY no Way toimpede tlieffdrtlier edvarieeof l when" theaelwtnee'poftlie fleetF 60 eiiises tlieg--poweooperated lrieehaiiieiiijoneeveringf welh'fmeene p combinati-Ton, {stitch-tionen 'deviee cen-neetlens epeeble the V)seviti-ieg A eed means U- irito Qpertioii.

erm, 2440 theflet brieejthe .fl-@Wer endl oir tliegleizer over the recess lQOjelidtlllemelt iittigigV ,and ,holding Idevicefem libe .,thrown.; into operzttioi.n I This howeverfeznrmotzf V loe brought-about bymerelya-drewne:the Shoe. away .from the sewing porit ,or-",by f depreseing the tredlewhili 1.lifts tl1 rod 7D. but ,beth feijeretene here to. :eetfbrld Further, v to giiar'd {fl-against: Vur1i ntentio operat-ioiifoi the lztttertreadle it is-"jpl" at inappropriate vdiet-mide :to one ,Sidel machine sterti gt eadlee fdf'onA e vsoule` hthigher level.Y

lVliile' itis preferred to employ the Sp-eeififcufig:

copstruetionand. arr engermeritfof parte illus,-

vention lievingj beendindicated arid 'je .ingichine embodyiiig the several features ,of the Y., invention, inv

'aft-er the eoiripletionxjolf thel Vst-:vsiiigg loperil;

.tion for Controlling-gime'foperatioiiljpor Seid-` hem@ .feiveeltahee e 32er e? 10oA ziiratte 4operetionson the part orrtlie operatorl l i eine,

Ying.,

' throwing said :mechanism `into opera-tion,` treadle connections!` for controlling Vsaid meansV and means for preventing operation in combination, stitch forming devices, mechanism'for severing the Vwelt,means tor of said treadleifconnections.until yafter the completion of the sewing operation.

. v6'. A'welt shoev Sewing machine having, in combination, stitchv forming devices, treadle :actua/ted mea.ns,`mechanism forV severing the welt, ."means "dependent" upon -movement of the welt and upon operation of thetreadle VVactuated means for," throwing saidfmech'a-v nism into operatiom and ,means forprevent ing the!l operation of thevtreadle actuated means until after'the completion Vofthe sewing operation.v

Y.7. A` welt shoev sewing Vmachine having, inl combination, stitch Y forming devices,

mechanism `for severingy the welt, means act- Y ing upon movement of the welt to throw said vmechanism into operation, means for holding said welt from movement while they machine is at vrest to prevent said mechanism from being thrown into operation, and

releasing said holding means.

.means under the control of the operator fory 'A welt shoe sewing machine having,`in5 lcombination, stitch forming devices, a welt 3o measuring device, means` for severing the weltthrown into Voperation by the welt measuring ydevice during the operation oi said vdevice in measuring the welt, mecha.

' nismf for preventing the operation of said upon"y movement of the weltto throw said i c Vmechanism into operation, means comprisingl a lever capable of being locked in posi-1- tion to prevent Said'mechanism 'from being thrownflintoy operation and movable in one" device. and meansunder the control ofthe operator while theAmachiii-e is at `rest for releasing said `mechanism to permit operation of the welt measuring device. 9. A `welt shoe sewingmachine having,` in combination, stitch forming devices, mechanism Vtor severing they welt, means acting direction by the operator independently V'of the .welt to permit said mechanism to-Jbe thrown into operation by a movement-"of the welt, means for locking said lever in' v position during the normal 'sewingfoperaf tion, and means lfor releasing said' locking for locking said.' treadle 1 connections out ot ymachine "to release tre'adleV `closing Athe vjaws `Welt gripping advancing the elt "shoe sewing -machine haviiig,

power operated' mechanism for severing the welt, means for throwingsaid mechanism into operationy upon movement ofthe welt, and means tor preventing said mechanisml in^combination' stitch forming devicesff-A from being thrown into operation during*-V ing controlled bythe opera-torga'fter the coi'ii-4 1 pletion of the Asewingoperation y'and indef pendently thereof to' permit said mechanism to be thrown' into operation;y

X12, A welt shoe sewing machinerhaving,

the normal sewing operation 'capable of be-V I in combination, stitch forming` devices, andV power operated-means for gripping the weltV afterpthe lcompletion of the sewing operation'v comprising a* pair of relatively-removable welt grippingfjaws,andfmeans -for advancingk the jaws toward. the welt',^for partially movement and for-causing the jaws to grip the weltat the end-of the advancing movement.

13.7A welt shoe sewing vmachine having,

in combination, stitch forming devices, and

means for gripping the: welt-` after the completion ofthe sewing operation comprising pair of relativelyinovable welt gripping jaws, means foradvancing the jaws toward the welt, and means =forv closing rthe -jawsv lightly onthe outer edge portion of the welt during said advancing during thef advancing mov-ement of the jaws and for causing the ljaws to grip ythe welt at the end'of said advancing movementif .ali-'A welt shoe sewing machinehaving7 in combination, stitchl formingdevices, Yand means for severing and'holding'the welt i comprising a reciprocating bar, pairofV jawsmounted on thebar, a reciprocating knife carrying bar, means 'for j jaw carrying-bar toward the welt and :tor lpartially closingftlie jaws dur-V ing .the advancing movement, means for ad-r vancing "the Zknife carryingvbar "after-the completionl of the advancingfmovementot the jaw carrying bar, and, meal-msi,compris-V Ving a cam on Y'the knife carryingfbartocause the jaws 'togrip'j the welt duringfsaid advancingy movement of the knife' carryingV bai.-

- Y i '5 l5. 'A sewing machine'having in combina-y tion, stitch forming devices, and means for) severing and holding the welt after thecompletionof the sewing operation Acomprising a reciprocating Vb'arA provided with f a 'fsta-` tionary welt gripping jaw', a' cooperating Vwelt gripping'jaw'jpivotally mounted on the bar, an arm pivot'ally 'mounted on the bar,

aftorsionspring connecting 'thearm and pivf. otallymounted jaw,-means for reciprocating the bar lto'move the jaws 'toward andifrom lthe welt, means cooperating 'with'fsaid army for opening -the vrj aws duringV the movement offthe bar away fromlthe welt, and for par;

Y tially closing Ythe uj awsfduri'ng" the movement of the bar toward/the 'we1t,f"a-knifecarrym j the welt during said movement of the knife carrying bar toward the Welt.

' 16. A welt shoe sew-ing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, and means for holding the welt after the completion of the sewing operationl comprising a stationary welt gripping jaw, and a yieldingly actuated pivotally mounted'welt gripping jaw having welt engaging surface portions longitudinally inclined with relation to each other for cooperating with the stationl ary jaw to grip welts of diiferent thicknesses.' .Y

17. A welt shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, and means for holding the welt after the completion of the sewing operation comprising a pairv of welt gripping jaws -pivotally movable with relation to each other, one o f which has welt engaging surface portions longitudinally inclined with relation to each other to enable the jaws to uniformly grip welts of'V different thicknesses.

yFRED RICKS. i

ERNEST GEORGE EDGAR BURGOYNE.

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