US1202426A

US1202426A - Sewing-machine.

Info

Publication number: US1202426A
Application number: US86248914A
Authority: US
Inventors: Eugene J Ray
Original assignee: United Shoe Machinery Co AB
Current assignee: USM Ltd; United Shoe Machinery Co AB
Priority date: 1914-09-19
Filing date: 1914-09-19
Publication date: 1916-10-24
Anticipated expiration: 1933-10-24

Description

E. J. RAY.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 19. 1914.

Patented Oct 24, 1916.

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SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT- 19, I914.

Patented OH. 24-, 1916.

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EUGENE J'. RAY, 0E BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CUMPANY, 01E PATTERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION 015 NEW JERSEY.

Specification of Letters Patent.

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Application filed September 19, 1914. Serial No. 862,489.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that T, EUGENE J. RAY, a citizen of the United States, residing at Beverly, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines; and I do hereby declare the follow ing to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

The present invention relates to sewing machines, and more particularly to buttonhole sewing or similar machines in which the sewing mechanism operates to form overseam stitches.

Buttonhole sewing machines have heretofore been Provided with means for holding or severing and holdin the needle thread, and in the patent to inn, No. 1,094,896, dated April 28, 1914:, is disclosed a device of this character by which the needle thread is held in such a position at the beginning of the sewing operation that the waste end of thread extending from the initial stitch is .covered by the overseam stitches.

The device of the Hill patent has been found to be generally satisfactory in operation, but upon certain kinds of goods, such as the cloth which is sometimes used in the uppers of shoes, the waste end of thread after it is released by the holding means becomes displaced so that the end isinot sewed in with certainty but is sometimes left projecting more or less from the Work.

The object of the present invention is to provide a huttonhole sewing or other sewing machine which forms an overseam with improved means whereby the waste end of the thread extending from the initial stitch of the seam will be sewed in completely and with certainty upon all classes of fabrics which may be operated upon by the machine.

The invention is intended primarily as an improvement upon the devices of the Hill patent above referred to, but it is to be understood that the invention is not limited to chine of a thread guiding finger arranged to engage the thread and hold it close to the surface of the work at the beginning of the sewlng operation in such position that the loose end of thread will be held and guided so as to be completely covered by the overseam stitches. In applying the invention to a machine provided with thread holding devlces, such, for instance, as that disclosed in the Hill patent above referred to, th) thread guiding finger is preferably arranged to engage the thread between the holding device and the sewing point, and holds the thread in close proximity to' the surface of the work and guides the loose end of thread after it is released by the holding device.

In the embodiment of the invention hereinafter specifically described the thread guidmg finger is mounted to move toward and from the work and is pressed yieldingly into contact with the work by a cam actuated mechanism including a yielding connection.

To provide a simple compact and efficient construction in a machine in which the needle is rotated during the sewing operation, the mechanism for actuating the thread guiding finger in the illustrated embodiment of the invention comprises a cam mounted on the rotating carrier of the needle mechanism.

The several features of the present invention will be clearly understood from an inspection of the accompanying drawings in which the preferred embodiment of the invention is illustrated. as applied to the buttonhole sewing machine disclosed in the patents to Hill Nos. 1,063,880, dated June 3, 1913, and 1,094,896, dated April 28, 1914.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a vertical sectional elevation showing so much of the buttonhole sewing machine of the Hill patents as is necessary to illustrate the embodiment of the invention therein. Fig. 2 is a detail view in side elevation illustrating the thread guiding finger and the mechanism for operating it, and also indicating the relative positions of the thread guiding finger, the upper sewing needle and the thread cutting and holding devices. Fig; 3 is a detail view looking from the right of Fig. 2, illustrating several of the parts shown in said figure. Fig. 4 is a plan view of the parts illustrated in Fig. 2. Fig. 5 1s,a detail view in side elevation of certain of the parts illuslllltl same position as in Fig. 5, and Fig. 7 is a diagrammatic plan view illustrating the position of the overseam stitches and the loose I end of thread with relation to the buttonhole at the beginning of the sewing operation.

In the machine illustrated in the drawings, the stitch forming mechanism comprises an upper needle 2, eccentrically mounted in a vertically reciprocating needle bar 4, an under needle 6, and a looper 8. The upper needle bar and the under needle and looper are mounted in a rotary head and in a rotary turret which are rotated during the sewing about the end and eye of the buttonholes. The work is heldby clamps 10 pivotally mounted on plates 12 which are in turn mounted on a clamp carrier 14. The clamp carrier is moved longitudinally to bring the work into register with the cutter or with the sewing devices and to feed the work during the sewing by a cam groove formed in the cam carrier 16 which makes one revolution for each cycle of the machine. The clamp carrier is moved laterally and the stitch forming mechanism is rotated during the sewing through suitable connections from a carrier 18 which makes one revolution during the sewing of the buttonhole. The cutter 20 is operated through a cam on the carrier 16, and when operated to cut a buttonhole also operates to close the clamps 10 which are held closed during the sewing by the latching devices indicated at 22. The clamp is released and opened during its return to cutting position by a stationary cam 24, as fully described in Patent No. 1,063,880 above referred to.

At the completion of the sewing of the buttonhole the stitch forming mechanism is stopped with the upper and under needles in their retracted positions. The upper needle thread is automatically severed between the upper side of the work and the needle and the free end of the needle thread is held at the rear of the sewing point in such position that at the beginning of the next sewing operation the end of the thread will be covered by the overseam stitches. The thread severing and holding devices illustrated in the drawings are the same in construction and mode of operation as those fully illustrated and described in the patent to Hill hereinbefore referred to No. 1,094,896. These devices comprise two gripping jaws, one of which is indicated at 26, which first grip the thread and then carry it against a fixed cutter indicated at 30 which cooperates with the under edge of the jaw 26 to sever the thread between the jaws and the work. These devices are mounted in a support 32 formed at the lower end of a rod 34 which is mounted to slide vertically in a bracket 36. The support 32 is arranged at the rear of the sewing point and rests on one of the clamps 10 so as to rise and fall with the clamp. The jaw 26 is carried by a bar 50 fitting a bore in the support 32. This bar is actuated to open and close the gripping jaws by means of a spring 54 and by cams 58 and 60 on the carrier 16 arranged to engage the lower end of the lever 62, the upper end of which is connected with the bar by a link 64.

The position of the parts at the beginning of the sewing operation is indicated in Fig. 2, and the relation of the waste end of thread to the buttonhole and to the first stitches of the seam is indicated in Fig. 7. The waste end of thread is held at the rear of the sewing point, and the first stitch is taken at the small end of the buttonhole, the upper needle passing down through the work and the lower needle passing up through the buttonhole slot. During the first few stitches the sewing mechanism is rotated so that the stitches of the seam pass around the end of the buttonhole as indicated in Fig. 7. The waste end of thread leads from the sewing point to the thread grippers in such a direction that the upper and lower needles pass on opposite sides of the thread so that the thread is covered by the stitches. After the first stitches have been taken the waste end of thread is released by the gripping devices, and, in order to insure the complete covering of the end of the thread by the overseam stitches, the thread guiding finger, constituting the preferred embodiment of the present invention, is provided. This finger is indicated at 66 and comprises a bar provided with a flattened forward end passing through a guiding pole ".in a guiding piece 68 secured to the support 32, and provided at its lower end with a notch to engage the thread leading from the initial stitch to the thread holding grippers. At the beginning of the sewing operation the finger 66 is in retracted position, as illustrated in Fig. 2. As the sewing progresses, however, and before the waste end of thread is released by the gripping devices, the finger is moved down into engagement with the work, as indicated in Fig. 5, thereby pressing the thread against the work so that the thread is confined and guided by the notch at the lower end of the finger. After the finger 66 is in engagement with the waste end of thread, the thread holding grippers release the thread and thereafter the thread is guided by the thread finger until it is completely covered by the overseam stitches. The finger 66 is then retracted to the position indicated in Fig. 2.

To enable the finger 66 to be actuated, as above described, its rear end is clamped in the free end of a link 70 pivotally mounted v into position to be covered I guide the Waste end of needle thread into upon the upper end of an arm 72 projecting from a pivot mounted in the support 32. The arm 72 is provided with a laterally extending lug 74 which is engaged by the lower end of a lever 76 pivotally mounted upon the bracket 36. A plunger 78, mounted in the-upper end of the bracket 36, engages at its rear end with the upper end of the lever 76 and at its forward end is provided with a laterally extending head 80-which is arranged to be engaged by a cam 82 mounted on the rotary carrier of the upper needle. The cam 82 is so arranged that, during the formation of the first few stitches of the seam, and while the needle is being'rotated, the plunger 78 will be moved backwardly so as to bring the guiding finger 66 into guiding position in contact with the work. In order to permit the finger 66 to be pressed yieldingly against the work, the plunger 78 is made of two-telescoping parts between which a compression spring 84 is interposed. When the plunger 78 is released by the cam 82 the finger 66 is returned to the position indicated in Fig. 2 by a spring 86.v

The nature and object of the present invention having been indicated, and the preferred embodiment of the invention having been specifically described, what is claimed is 1. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism comprising a needle and devices cooperating therewith to form overseam stitches, and a thread guiding finger arranged to engage the work and guide the waste end of needle thread by the overseam stitches.

2. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism comprising a needle and devices cooperating therewith to form overseam stitches, a thread guiding finger arranged to engage the 'work and position to be covered by the overseam stitches, and means for moving the finger into and out of operative position, including means for yieldingly moving the finger toward the work. 7

3. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle and devices cooperating therewith to form overseam stitches, means for holding the end of'the needle thread in position to be covered by the overseam, and a thread guiding finger to engage the thread between said holding means and the sewing point.

4. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle and devices cooperating therewith to form overseam stitches, a thread holder arranged to hold the needle thread at the rear of the sewing point in position to be overstitched, means for actuating the holder to release the thread, and a finger to guide the thread after it is released by the holder.

5. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism comprising a rotary needle carrier, a needle and devices cooperating therewith to form overseam stitches, and a thread guiding finger operated by the rotation of the needle carrier to engage the work and guide the Waste end of thread into position to be covered by the overseam stitches.

6. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism comprising a rotary needle carrier, a needle and devices cooperating therewith to form overseam stitches, a thread guiding finger arranged to engage the work and guide the waste end of thread into position to be covered by the overseam stitches, and means for moving the finger into and out of operative position including a cam on the needle carrier.

EUGENE J. RAY. Witnesses:

7 0. M. SINCERBEAUX, CHARLES E. GJRUSH.