US1618729A - Shoe and method for use in the manufacture thereof - Google Patents

Description

Feb. 1927. 22, J, H. RICHARDSON AND METHOD FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURE THEREOF.

SHOE

Filed Feb. 20. 1925 Patented F b. 22, 1927.

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ap lication.alea'rebm -eo, 1925. serial u 10,588.

This invention relates to shoes and .the art of making shoes, and particularly to the.

makingof shoes of that type .in which the welt'is attached to the upper prior to the 5 lasting ofythe upper. Shoes of this type have come to be. known as pre-welted' shoes.

' The usual practice in making pre -welted shoes'is to lay the margin of the upper upon the table of. a sewing-machine, to place a welt upon the margin of the upper-with its grain face, that. is, the face which ..is -exposed in the finished shoe, incontact with? the outer face of the upper, and to sew the margin of the'welt to the outer portion of the margin of the-upper. A last is provided with an innersole temporarily attached to its bottomand the welted upper is assembled with the last. The margins 'of the upper and ,welt, through whichthe seam 'unit- ,ing them extends, are then lasted over upon I the margin of'the innersole. In this lasting operation difficulty is experienced in .lasting the toe portion and also the heelv 1 a portion when, as is frequently the practice,

the welt extends about the heel portion ofi the upper. as well as about the shank and forepart. This diiiiculty is'due to the fact that the-welt is as long as the-periphery oftheu per and hence, in gathering and'shap ing t e end .portionso'f the upper to'the last, the. welt, as well as theperiphery ofthe' upper materials, as .to be shortened;

this dificulty, the invention, in one of its as- Iconsis'ts in providing an; extensible wait and in, attaching the welt. while-in ex- Since' thefw'elt 'i's extensible it is also conjtractiblerand when, in lasting,'the'upper at I 1 the-lashwhile in a stretched or. extended.

condition, sothatj when itis allowed tofco'ntract after attachment-it causes those portions-of the upper to be contractedor gathwith which th'eu'p'per may be lasted, shaped and fitted to the ends o-f'the last.

. a another aspect the invention consists p 55 a novel shoe having a relat1vely, ,non-'elastic.

' Withthe object'in view of' overcoming the e'ndaiof the shoe is gathered in, the welt maybe contracted without distortion, iPref-I ered, thereby greatly-"enhancing the facility' *s'tr'etched v position; When,

,upper and an el'astic'yresilient welt attached to the upper, the upper being gathered to prov-ide the shortened periphery at' the end port ions o-f the shoe and the welt being ina, substantially normal, unstretched and uncont'rac'ted condition correspondinginlength pl'eted' shoe.

In the drawing, 1 .Fig. 1 illustrates the method the. welt to thev upper ;I' I I Fig. 2 is a'perspective view of the toe portion of an upper, partly "broken awayand in section, .to which the welt has been attached by the p'resent'method; 4

attaching substantially to the periphery of the last or innersole. along. which 'it lies in the om- Fig. 3 'isa perspective view, "partly in section, of the toe portion of the shoeafter the upper has been 1asted; and

hFig. 4 is a. sectional view of a completed s oe.

-In Fig. 1 is shown a shoe upper 2 to which a welt 4'is being attached by the present method.

The upper may be of any usual kind-in the condition in which it is-- assembled on a last. The margin of'such a shoe upper is placed upon a table 6 of a' sewin machine, which may be, a straight-needle,'c ain-stitch machine of the usual type such as .the Puritan'machine. The welt 4 is placed with one edge'flush with the edge of the upper 2 and the welt and upper-located beneatha needle Y 8 of the sewing-machine, In order to facili-' tatethe relative location of the welt and upper w1th their edges flush and to determine the location of such edges with respect u p ,to the needle,-anedge gage 10 is preferably tended condition, to the unlasted upper. provided ,on the a hi A ea 121 made referably fairl close to the edge of the we t which is flus with the edge of the upper, the margin'sof. the welt and upper being thus united." The welt employed may be of'any-extensible material but is prefer ably of a material which. is'not' only exten-- sible but which is resilient that is, which has rubber. ,In' attaching awelt of such material along-the sideof a shoe upper, the

welt is maintained: substantiall owever; -'a hery o ftheupper curved portion of the peri ig 1, the welt is is reached as shown min an .un-

to be and welt -may wition; a .7 n

Having thus described, my invention, what,

extended or embed eater by the fingers,

- as shown, or in any suitable manner, the

is indicated by" opposed ,arrows 13, indicatin its tendency to contract when-released.- en the welt has been attachedte the 'upperall the wayaroundor from breast'line lted upperremoved' from the machine, thewelt,"iff of resilient, materiahwill tend to contractiand to'assume' the conditionshownin Fig, 2; ln'this figure line, and the we the welt, about the toe portion. has con- 14 an thewhole portion has more or less thesha'pe it. is to have inthe' completed. shoe. The upper thus prepared is -j placed upon a last 16 and the margin *of the upper and welt over upon an inner-5 sole 18,- as shown in Fi .'-3, thisopemtion, being: greatly facilitated by the tendency of the welt-to contract to cause' theupper to assume the shape-of thelast, The' uppertempora-rilv secured. in.

lace-while the upper isbeoomingset, tothe.

P shape of lime last-lay a few lasting tacks 20,

-ass-indicated, and cement-may be applied to the upper-or innersoleor-both to hold the upper anently in position. After-the upper as become. set the tacks 20- are res; moved, a filler 22 inserted in the cavity formed inside the edges of the upper and; welt and an outeole "24 applied. The filler may, of course, be applied to the innersole prior to the lasting operation if desired, e If a crepe welt has'beencmployed the outsole my also'be of crepe rubber, in which case cement or a rubber. solvent mavhe'em1;. ployed to causeadhesionyor, more properlv',' cohesion between-the sole and welt. ,Of

if desired, an"outsole of other usual material mav be employed and attached to the welt. :the usual ,outs'ole stitching oper I'claim as new'anddesire to secure .by'LettersiPatent of the-United States is 2' thewelttoflthe upper. progressivelv by a seam, and during suchattachment of the welt -to curved portions ofthe upper maintaining l the welt in an extended condition ter' the curvature, of gcourse, ;the" more the welt willbe extended or stretchedt In Fig. 1, the stretchedportion of the'welttac'hment of the .welt tocurved portions'of the upper maintaining the weltunder tension in a-stretched condition;

upper,providi ng a resilient welt, attaching the welt to the upper, andduring such at-;

tachment of the welt to curved portions of thej upper maintainingthe welt .iunder tension in astretched condition" and varying the ance with the" degree of curvature. of the] .v. 'p ph y tracted and causedthemarginof the upper r Th ii uckered. gathered vor wrinkled as at.

amount of stretching of, the welt in accordcf the upper.

unla upper program 'velv ,3. That. improvement in' methods of mak- ,ingfs'hoes' which. consists in preparing a shoe upper, providing a resilient welt, attaching the welt to the upper, and during such at-E atimpro'vem'entin' methods of mak ing shoes WhlCh consists in preparing a shoe a improvement in ethode 0f malt-v h w 1 consists i Pr pa an pper,prov d1 ng an extensible welt, attaching, mar not the welt to the margin of the by a seamand during such attachment of the welt to curved portions .of the upper maintaining. the welt m an extended condition, applyin'g thelwelted upper'to a last-having an innersole'the reand welt over: the margin, of the inneraole, and completing the shoe in the usual manner.-

.of the'welt to curved-portions of the upper :maintaining the welt under tension in a stretched condition. allowing the welt toconison, lasting the-,unitedqmargins of the upper tract and pucker the upper at the curved portions thereof, applying-the welted upper to a1asthavingan inner-sole thereon, lasting the attached margins ofthe upper and welt over theu'pper and the innersole,tattaching the margin of theupper to the innersole by temporary tacks and by cement, removing the temporarv-tacks after the cement has set,

securing the. welt and outsole" together.

ing pre-welted shoes which consists .in'pro-v applying a filler and outsole to thcfshoe, and. a

.7. That improvement in methods of-mak lll viding a shoe upper, providing a' resilient :welt, attaching the welt to the upper while maintaining the-,'welt under tensionin a stretched condition -.duri ngattachment of the welt to curved portions of the upper and varying the amount of stretching of thew'elt in accordance with" the degree of curvat'ur portions of-theperiphery of the upper, ap-

margins of the upper over-the innersole, ap-

the outsole together.

plying anoutsole; and the welt andf ,of the periphery of the upper, allowing the welt to contract and 'gatherup the curved 8; As an article-0f manufacture, a shoe;stal'ltially normal, uncompressed and unexhaving a relatively non-elastic 'up'pe'r; an tended condition, the upper bein secured elastic'mid resilient ;welt stitched at its intothe innersole and the outsole 'ing se-- 10 her margin to the upper only, an innersole, cured to the welt. 1 i H 4 5 and an outsole, the upper'beingga-thered to In testimony whereofl havesigned my provide a shortened periphery at an end pornameto this specification. tion of the shoe-and the welt being in-a subv JOHN H. RICHARDSON

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