US1599229A - Lapseam blucher tongue - Google Patents

Lapseam blucher tongue Download PDF

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Publication number
US1599229A
US1599229A US84874A US8487426A US1599229A US 1599229 A US1599229 A US 1599229A US 84874 A US84874 A US 84874A US 8487426 A US8487426 A US 8487426A US 1599229 A US1599229 A US 1599229A
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tongue
quarter
shoe
stitching
row
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Expired - Lifetime
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US84874A
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Winfield A Given
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B3/00Footwear characterised by the shape or the use
    • A43B3/02Boots covering the lower leg

Definitions

  • This invention relates to shoes-of the so called blucher type and more particularly to va shoe 'ofthis type having a bellows tongue.
  • the sole and vamp of such a shoe are usually constructed of rubber or other waterproofed materials, and thejupper of leather or like materials.
  • Fig. l is a View ofV a finished shoecon structed in accordance with my invention.V
  • FIG. 2 is a view of the tongue member.
  • Fig. 3 is a fragmentaryview'showing the reinforcing flap and one method of attaching the same to the shoe.
  • Fig. l shows threef sections illustrating Y different steps in attaching the 'tongue 'and flap to the shoe.
  • Fig. 5 is a sectionover the line 5 5 of Fig. 3.
  • l' i F ig. 6 is afragmentary view of an upper. showing a ,reinforced ⁇ strip of somewhat Llitlieii'e'nt construction.
  • Y is a fragmentary view of an upper. showing a ,reinforced ⁇ strip of somewhat Llitlieii'e'nt construction.
  • Fig. 7 is a fragmentary view of the tongue adapted to be joined to the quarter shown v i in Fig'. 6.
  • v l Y l v Fig. 8 is a'view of Figs. 6 and 7 united.
  • Fig. v9 shows sections-illustratingthe difV ferent steps in uniting this quarter and tongue.
  • 'E Y Y Fig. 10 is a section onlthe line 10-10 of Files# J Fig. 11 is a view yof an upper and tongue either or lboth ofwhich may have a flap like samevhowe'verfiying loose.
  • y Figfll showsthe iiap lying outside of the upper
  • Y j y Fig. l1b is a view showing a flap both inside andl outside of theshoe.
  • a shoe constructed in accordance with, my. invention consists of the usual lquarter l, tongue 2 and vamp ,3 vwhich is usuallyA conthat shown in Figs. 1 tof5 inclusive, the 85 structed of rubber.
  • Fig. 4 I have illustrated the three steps required to completely unite the flap, lwhich in this case is integral with the tongue, to the upper.
  • the row of stitching 9 on the outer edge of the eyelety row 4 is carried down tofasten the tongue 2 and quarter 1 to each other below the eyelet row just back of the tab 6 as shown at 10.
  • the work is turned in the machine at the lower edge of the tongue and the quarter, and a second row of stitching 11 put through the tongue and quarter as near as possible at the saine point occupied by the row 10, the row 11 being continued above the point where the flap is joined to form the inside stitching of the eyelet row 4.
  • the tab 6 extends outwardly beyond vthe rows of stitching lOand 11. I next open and iiatten out the tongue 2 and quarter 1, which were held face to face while the stitchings 10 and 11 were being inserted, so that the' tab ⁇ 6 will overlie and can be stitched to the quarter 1 as indicated at 12 in the third step shown in Fig. 4.
  • This third row of vstitching 12 as shown in Figs. 1 and 8, is continued about the entire outer edge of the tab 6 so that Vthe same is closely and neatly united to the upper 1.
  • a reinforcing tab extends laterally adjacent the lower edge of the quarter instead of from the' tongue as in the form hereinbefore'referred to.
  • the first rows of'stitching 13 and 14 join the tongue and the quarter in the saine manner as do the rows of stitching 10 and 11 (see'Figs. 3 and 4).
  • the row of stitching 15 which corresponds to the row 12 does not lie inside of the seam formed by the rows 13 and 14, but appears as a third irow of stitching' through the quarter Y and tongue back of the tab 7, the same howev'er being continued about the edges of the said tabfto join the same to the tongue as shown in Fig. 10.
  • Figs. 11, 11a and 11b I have shown an other possible embodiment of my invention.
  • tabs 16 and 17 may be used, part ⁇ of the stitching operation may be omitted, it being possible only to unite the quarter and tongue by a single row of stitching 18 at just about the point where the ⁇ lateral tabs 16 and 17 project.
  • these tabs may be stitched to their respective tongue and'quarter, or the flap on the inside of the shoe need not be fastened but may lie loose against the in! side of the shoe as shown in Fig; 11a.
  • tabs may be provided and this may be stitched along its outer edges to the tongue or quarter or allowed to fiy ioose as desired.
  • Fig. 11b tabs are shown on both upper and tongue and both are lying loose.
  • any one of these is a considerable improvement over thel old butted seam heretofore used.
  • v Various changes in the positioning ofthe reinforcing tabs or in the arrangement or numbers of rows of stitching may obviously be made without departing from the spirit of my invention if within the limits of the appended claims.
  • an upper including a blucher type quarter and a bellows tongue, saidv quarter and tongue being stitched to each other vto form an eyelet row and a lateral reinforcing tab on one of said members be- ⁇ low said eyelet row and attached to the other member in lapseam construction.
  • an upper including a shaped quarter and a correspondingly shaped tongue a lateral reinforcing tab on one of said members, said quarter and tongue being stitched to each other to define an'eyelet row, said stitching being' carried below said eyelet row through said quarter and tongue back of said reinforcing tab, and said tab being folded over upon said stitching in lapseam constructiom and stitched to the member of which it is notan integral part.
  • an upper struc ture including a quarter and a tongue marginally stitched to each other to form an eyelet row, a mecanicnforcing tabl extending laterally from one of said members and overlying the'other of said members and stitched thereto by a line of stitching which passes through both of said members and which eX- line of stitching which marginally secures the upper and tongue to each other, said tab beyond said stitch line being additionally stitched to the underlying member only of the upper structure by an independent 30 v tends substantially as a continuation of the lineof stitching constituting with the lirsty named line of stitching a lapseam.

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  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Description

Sept. 7 1926. 1,599,229 w. A. GIVEN 9 LAPSEAM BLUGHER TONGUE Filed Ja. 3o, 1926 2 sheets-sheen 1 y maag'- Se'pt. 7 1.926. 1,599,229
w. A. GNEN LAPSEAM BLUCHER TONGUE 'Filed Jan. 30, 192e 2 sheets-sheet ltolzml/ Patented Sept. 7, 1926.
UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE:
WINFIELD A. GIVEN, OF EREEPORT, MAINE. n
'LArsnAM BLUCHER Toluene.
-App1ication filed. January 30, 1926. Serial No. 84,874.
This invention relates to shoes-of the so called blucher type and more particularly to va shoe 'ofthis type having a bellows tongue. The sole and vamp of such a shoe are usually constructed of rubber or other waterproofed materials, and thejupper of leather or like materials. 1
In this type of shoe, 'especially when made for outing or limiting purposes, the tongue and upper are so shaped and attached to eac-h other that neartheir edges there is defined Va row through'which eyelets are inserted, the shoe being fastened by a shoe lacing threaded through these eyelets In the usual construction, justy below the eyelet row and above the point where the upper is attached to the vamp, there isa relatively short space where the Vunion of the tonguev and upper is not'reinforced except by a single stitching ofthe parts together. 0bviously this is a weak point lin the construction of the shoe, and, as it happens, this is also one of the points in the shoe which receives greatest wear. as it lies over the foot just at the turn of the ankle. Y
This weakness has been recognized forl years and various attempts have been made to devise methodsand means to relieve this wear or to reinforce the-shoe'at this point. These means have consisted in patches, stay strips and other reinforcing pieces 'of many shapes and styles. In spite of these improve ments, howeven'itromains the fact that this* point in a blucher typehunting shoe is one of the first to show wear and brealr. The most common way of fastening the tongue to the upper now'in use in the trade is simply to stitch thetongue and quarter to each other. Any breaking of the stitching destroys the waterproof nature of the shoe and may materially injure the whole` article.
To overcome these diiliculties, I have devised my present invention. 'I have intro duced no new parts into'the shoe or added materially to the labor or .time required to produce the finishedV article. Ihave, however, so designed thesef familiar Vpartsy and devised a method of joining them .to each other that the* lfinished article is vgreatly improved and strengthened at just this point which requires reinforcement.
I have'disclosedin the drawings and described in the specification a practical embodimentof myfinvention, the details of which willbe completely set forth in the specification whichy follows. Similar refier-V ence numerals are used to indicate corre-n y .sp'onding parts in the drawings and speci-l fication. In the drawings:
Fig. l is a View ofV a finished shoecon structed in accordance with my invention.V
' `Fig. 2 isa view of the tongue member.
Fig. 3 is a fragmentaryview'showing the reinforcing flap and one method of attaching the same to the shoe. Y
Fig. l shows threef sections illustrating Y different steps in attaching the 'tongue 'and flap to the shoe. Fig. 5 is a sectionover the line 5 5 of Fig. 3. l' i F ig. 6 is afragmentary view of an upper. showing a ,reinforced` strip of somewhat Llitlieii'e'nt construction. Y
Fig. 7 is a fragmentary view of the tongue adapted to be joined to the quarter shown v i in Fig'. 6. v l Y l v Fig. 8 is a'view of Figs. 6 and 7 united.
Fig. v9 shows sections-illustratingthe difV ferent steps in uniting this quarter and tongue. 'E Y Y Fig. 10 is a section onlthe line 10-10 of Files# J Fig. 11 is a view yof an upper and tongue either or lboth ofwhich may have a flap like samevhowe'verfiying loose. y Figfllshowsthe iiap lying outside of the upper, and Y j y Fig. l1b is a view showing a flap both inside andl outside of theshoe. l j
A shoe constructed in accordance with, my. invention consists of the usual lquarter l, tongue 2 and vamp ,3 vwhich is usuallyA conthat shown in Figs. 1 tof5 inclusive, the 85 structed of rubber.
vThe inner.V faces of the tongue 2 and the95l quarter 1 -are joined together to forman e'elet strip lthrough which eyelets 5v' are inserted.
In the form of my invention disclosedv Figs-f l to 5, inclusive, the-tongue 2 has 100 nearr its lower yedge lateral flaps 6. s v In the form of my invention shown lin Figs. 6 to'lOinclusive, the quarterl provided with a similar tab 7. Y
In the form shown in Figs. 11i, 11 vand A105 tabs and thetwo edges thereofhave simply 110 V2 are united to each other in the usual man-L ner, the rows of stitching 9 and 10 defining the eyelet strip 4 (Fig. f
In Fig. 4 I have illustrated the three steps required to completely unite the flap, lwhich in this case is integral with the tongue, to the upper.
The row of stitching 9 on the outer edge of the eyelety row 4 is carried down tofasten the tongue 2 and quarter 1 to each other below the eyelet row just back of the tab 6 as shown at 10. In order to make this union doubly strong, the work is turned in the machine at the lower edge of the tongue and the quarter, and a second row of stitching 11 put through the tongue and quarter as near as possible at the saine point occupied by the row 10, the row 11 being continued above the point where the flap is joined to form the inside stitching of the eyelet row 4.
At this step, the tab 6 extends outwardly beyond vthe rows of stitching lOand 11. I next open and iiatten out the tongue 2 and quarter 1, which were held face to face while the stitchings 10 and 11 were being inserted, so that the' tab` 6 will overlie and can be stitched to the quarter 1 as indicated at 12 in the third step shown in Fig. 4. This third row of vstitching 12 as shown in Figs. 1 and 8, is continued about the entire outer edge of the tab 6 so that Vthe same is closely and neatly united to the upper 1. Y
It will be noted that in this case the iiap overlaps the stitchings 10 and 11 and is attached to the upper 1` by what is usually referred to as a lap seam. This gives the strongest possible Vunion ofthe parts and I believe satisfactorily overcomes the ditliculties and weaknesses heretofore encountered at this point in a shoe of this type.
Referring to theform disclosed in Figs. 6 to 10 inclusive, it will be noted that in this case a reinforcing tab extends laterally adjacent the lower edge of the quarter instead of from the' tongue as in the form hereinbefore'referred to. In this case the first rows of'stitching 13 and 14 join the tongue and the quarter in the saine manner as do the rows of stitching 10 and 11 (see'Figs. 3 and 4). In this case, however, the row of stitching 15 which corresponds to the row 12 does not lie inside of the seam formed by the rows 13 and 14, but appears as a third irow of stitching' through the quarter Y and tongue back of the tab 7, the same howev'er being continued about the edges of the said tabfto join the same to the tongue as shown in Fig. 10. A
In Figs. 11, 11a and 11b, I have shown an other possible embodiment of my invention. In this form, there may be tabs 16 and 17 on both shoe and quarter. yIf this form of reinforcement is used, part` of the stitching operation may be omitted, it being possible only to unite the quarter and tongue by a single row of stitching 18 at just about the point where the` lateral tabs 16 and 17 project. If desired, these tabs may be stitched to their respective tongue and'quarter, or the flap on the inside of the shoe need not be fastened but may lie loose against the in! side of the shoe as shown in Fig; 11a. If preferred, but one tab may be provided and this may be stitched along its outer edges to the tongue or quarter or allowed to fiy ioose as desired. In Fig. 11b tabs are shown on both upper and tongue and both are lying loose. In any event, whether the tab is stitched to the shoe in the very complete and certain manner disclosed in Figs. 1 to 10 inclusive, or is attached at one or two points as shown in Figs. 11 to 11b, any one of these is a considerable improvement over thel old butted seam heretofore used. v Various changes in the positioning ofthe reinforcing tabs or in the arrangement or numbers of rows of stitching may obviously be made without departing from the spirit of my invention if within the limits of the appended claims.
I claim: 1. In a shoe, an upper including ablucher type quarter and a bellows tongue, f said quarter and tongue being stitched to each other, and a lateral reinforcing tab on one of said members and attached to the other memberin lapseam construction.
2. In a shoe, an upper including a blucher type quarter and a bellows tongue, saidv quarter and tongue being stitched to each other vto form an eyelet row and a lateral reinforcing tab on one of said members be-` low said eyelet row and attached to the other member in lapseam construction.
3. In a shoe, an upper including a shaped quarter and a correspondingly shaped tongue a lateral reinforcing tab on one of said members, said quarter and tongue being stitched to each other to define an'eyelet row, said stitching being' carried below said eyelet row through said quarter and tongue back of said reinforcing tab, and said tab being folded over upon said stitching in lapseam constructiom and stitched to the member of which it is notan integral part.
4. In a shoe upper, 'a' blucher type quarter and a tongue united to` the forward edge of said quarter, said tongue having adjacent its lower edge an integral reinforcing flap, said fiap being turned back on said quarter and stitched thereto by a lapseam.
'5. 'In a shoe upper, a blucher type quarter and aV tongue united to the forward edge t im of said quarter by a double row of stitching to define an eyelet row, said tongue having below said eyelet roW,` and laterally adjacent its lower edge, a reinforcing "flap, the roW of stitching uniting said quarter and said tongue andV defining said eyelet row, being continued to join said tongue to said upper just back of said flap, said flap be.
lying the other of said members, and stitched. thereto by a line of stitching which passes through both of said members and Which eX*-l tends substantially as a continuation of the line of stitching which marginally secures the upper and tongue to each other.
7. In shoe construction, an upper struc ture including a quarter and a tongue marginally stitched to each other to form an eyelet row, a vreinforcing tabl extending laterally from one of said members and overlying the'other of said members and stitched thereto by a line of stitching which passes through both of said members and which eX- line of stitching which marginally secures the upper and tongue to each other, said tab beyond said stitch line being additionally stitched to the underlying member only of the upper structure by an independent 30 v tends substantially as a continuation of the lineof stitching constituting with the lirsty named line of stitching a lapseam.
In testimony whereof I affix my signature.
WINFIELD A. GIVEN.'
US84874A 1926-01-30 1926-01-30 Lapseam blucher tongue Expired - Lifetime US1599229A (en)

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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2591211A (en) * 1951-08-17 1952-04-01 Us Army Adjustable shoe
US2915835A (en) * 1957-05-27 1959-12-08 B W Footwear Company Inc Boot construction
US5355596A (en) * 1992-08-31 1994-10-18 Tretorn Ab Shoe with a central closure
US9713362B2 (en) 2013-09-12 2017-07-25 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear with upper having member with support arm

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2591211A (en) * 1951-08-17 1952-04-01 Us Army Adjustable shoe
US2915835A (en) * 1957-05-27 1959-12-08 B W Footwear Company Inc Boot construction
US5355596A (en) * 1992-08-31 1994-10-18 Tretorn Ab Shoe with a central closure
US9713362B2 (en) 2013-09-12 2017-07-25 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear with upper having member with support arm
US10932526B2 (en) 2013-09-12 2021-03-02 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear with upper having member with support arm
US11647812B2 (en) 2013-09-12 2023-05-16 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear with upper having member with support arm

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