US1597874A - Shoe and process of making the same - Google Patents

Description

Aug. 31 1926. 1,597,874

P. C. ARNOLD SHOE AND PROCESS OF MAKING THE SAME Filed May 22. 1926 HIM remod lin 31, me

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This invention relates to shoemaking and more particularly tothe manufacture of welted boots and shoes exhibiting a double outseam, commercially known as doubledeck shoes.

While light wei ht shoesnre indemand for summer wear, or winter wear the public demands shoes of heavy, rugged construction. The effect of a heavy winter-wear shoe be obtained in various ways but it is highly important that fit, flexibility and comfort be not sacrificed in order to obtain weight, or the appearance of weight and a strength.

Heretofore doubledeck welt shoes have been produced by the addition of a slip sole secured between a narrowed welt and the outsole, but such shoes have never attained popularity for several reasons. The main detrimental features are: difiiculty of manufacture, due to the fact that no available outsole-stitcher can satisfactorily saw the narrowed welt at the inside shank without stitching into and breakin necessitating an unsightly wi e extension at this point to avoid this weakening of the inseam stiffness, due to the additional sole and increased expense, due to the cost oi the additional slip sole,- and to the need of hand sewing or co'bbling at the factory if the'shank extension is eliminated.

The object of the present invention is to reduce a wel'ted shoe that in a pearance has all the style advantages of oubledeck shoes including the provision of a wellmwieddouble outseam, but which ie serves the entire strength of the inseam and improves the construction of rior doubledeck shoes by preservin the exibility that is an important asset of because no additional stiffening slip sole is used. An im rtant feature of the present invention is til immense saving of material while yet providing a perfect oublcdec'k at a the margin. A further important feature is the ability of the manufacturer,-when build ing shoes under the novel rocess of this invention, to preserve all t chase, and es peciall at the instep, of his individual styles, because the shoe may be built bymachines available to every shoe manufacturer,

the inseam,

d ear welt shoes,

vention embodies a two deck ere materially in its while yet resentin the bee a searance that is ch aracteristiz bf a oub eeck.sh0e.

wli i ch: 1

igure is a view in rspective of the forepart of a shoe, thd en in the fordgroiind being shown in section;

Figs. 2 and 8 are two similar views of portions of the welt, in diflerent eta es of congtrucimmthatis built into the shoe wn m ig.

Fi 4 and 5 illustrate portions of modi- 1s lied arms of Walt that-ma be used, being aim ler in construction; and

1%. 6 illustrates a portion of another modi ed form of Walt.

In the drawing various forms. are illus w trated of the novel welt by meansof which the doubledeck margin or edge is obtained, and because, of who the shoe may be built throughout all operations in the usual manner and with the usualm ines. as In Fig. 1- a cross-section of a Goodgfgr welt shoe is shown the elements inclu upper material 10 an insole 11 channel to provide a sewing rib 12, an outsole-13, sole filler material It and a ribbed welt 15 no secured to the sewing rib 12 by the usual inseam 16 and to the outsole by the usual outseam'lB. It thus be observed that after bl insole up welt and outsole are secured together. the usual on two seams only one of which is idden, as is customary in the manufacture of year welt shoes. But here the strict comparison of the two shoes ceases for, as will now be explained, the novel shoe of the resent in- 100 t that difohsracteristica" from the ordina Good ear well: and, while 'ca able of readi 'ly ing fed to the stitchormlng mechanism o the Goodyear welt sewin machine, nevertheless ves to the shoe t c desired doubledeck Wlfilflflli requiring that a third securing seam be sewed during the manufacturing recess.

Figures 2 and 3 illustra the process of making the type of unitary doubledeck well. that is shown in section by Fig. 1. A strip of Goodyear weltm 2Q, somewhat wider than usual, is slit on itudinally at 21 beneath the grain side of t strip. The extra width of the weltin& (dotted ines' m Fig. 2 is removed from s slit edge leaving a dy 22 somewhat narrower up the grain-side cover-flap 28. A core 24 ll ocmented at the base of the slit, or m the anle formed by lifting the cover-flap 28, and 5m flap is cemented over the core, its extra length providing for covering the core and the rough inner margin of the body 22. The core 24 is characterized b an outer face 25 that stands normal to lane of the welt surface so that after it has enveloped by the flap 23 a reentrant right angle 18 formed at t e outer margin 26 of the welt. Preferably, but not essentially, the upper face of the core lies m a plane ata 90 an is to its outer face 26 providing a top dec 27 parallel to the welt surface 26- and the inner face 28 of the core is bevele to present an obli no surface that will fit as snugly as possi le in the shoe cream. The upstanding rib formed by the core and its grain surfaced cover flap closely llu the upper when the welt is stitched to insole but with its top face exposed outside the shoe crease.

The novel welt, when employed to produce a doubledeck edge on t e shoe, is further featured by a lo tudinal seam 80 that is surface-stitched a acent the outer edge of the top deck 27, functioning in some forms of the welt as means for securin the core 24 in position but inserted prime y to exhibit the second outseam that is a nisite of doubledeck shoes. It will be un erstood from the foregoing that the weltin is supplied to the shoe manufacturer wi the line of stitching already placed in the top deck so that the ribbed well; with its embedded stitch may be handled as a unit during the inseaming operation like any other Goodyear weltin exce t for the use of a special welt gui e shie d. In order that there will be no incongruity the seam 30 is formed by a seven-cord braided cotton thread similar in appearance to the thread that is used for the outseam l8 and the spacing of the stitches may be made to conform to that of the outseam. The stitching ms be a chain-stitch seam as illustrated in ig. 8, in which event it is desirable to provide-a groove 81 in which the has threadisbnrieior' may 611 eeamanlluatratedin whlchtheshuttlethreadma mchflnet thantheheavyneedletbreadand ma ofthe am. If

het ainst the under welt shown in 8 me be vided with afairstitchedse am 80. I m

In Fig 4 a well: having a rib of similar cross-section to that of Fig. 3 is shown e:- cest that the wel 32 is not lit to prov1 ethecover-fla and in thismstancethe welting 82 may of standard width. In Fig. 5 a welt similar to Fig. 4 is shown except that the rib 88 is rectangular in crosssection. In each type just described the outwardly facing shou der presented by the rib will need The modification shown in Fig. 6 illustrates the invention as embodied in one type of what is known commercially as an unitation cork-sole welt. This type of two deck welting comprises a bottom deck 82 of Goodyear waiting and a separately manufactured top deck formed by a rib 84 preferah y of triangular or wedgesped crosssoc ion. This Bldg? 34 may, if desired, have a thin envelo vide a grain ish for of u per leather to proe t deck similar to the grain surface of the we tin 32. The w butt formsan outwar facing shou der 36 along the waiting 82 and the envelope 85, if used, may .extend beyond the wed edge to provide a thin fla through whicltheinseamissewed. Thew t p erub but not necessarily, is bevel at 87 to ai the ineeaming operation. The rib stri 84, as for the other types, is surface sti along its top deck next to the shoulder 86 with a unitary seam 80 throughout its lenFth, preferably before aesembl with the we ting 82, using any suitable kin of thread stitch. It is within the scope of the invention, however to amemble the bottom and top desks and secure them together by the seam 30, the essntial ob'ect being the presentation of a line of an ace-sti immediately ad'aoent the top deck sh der 86 however is shoulder is formed. Those skilled in the art will recognize that the welting of Fig. 6 may be as readily sewed to the shoe when the two decks are imattached as when they are attached. If an unenveloped rib sin is used then its butt end 86 willbeburnisiedb asuitableedgemtfing tool as stated for e types of Figs. 4 an 5 to produoeafinish com bletothatof the exposed edges of the co bottom.

In using the surface-stitched two deck weltin herein described, and illustrated in sever of its forms, in the manufacture of welt shoes of the type ha a doubledecked margin, the surface-Land wel may be attached to the u per and insole an to the outeole like any 0 er Goodyear welting. The inseam 16 is sewed through the inner margin of the welt at one side of the line of stitching 30 in the top deck of the welt and thereafter the outseam 18 is sewed through the outer margin of the welt at the other side of said stitching in the welt. When the shoemaking process is completed. the inseam is intact and secure but the margin of the shoe exhibits the two parallel outseams characteristic of double deck shoes.

Attention is especially called to the fact that in the manufacture of a doubledeck shoe using my novel welt no additional seam is required other than the usual inseam and outseam. The process of making the shoe is carried forward without de arture from the usual practice except, and t is is highly important, a two deck welt provided with an exposed line of surface-stitching through the length of the top deck is employed as a unitary article to produce the doubledeck edge on the shoe.

I believe that I am the first to produce a doubledeck welt shoe having only one outseam for securin the outsole to the welt while yet exhibitmg two outseams at the margin, one in each deck; and I believe that I am the first to practice the process of making doubledeck welt shoes that will exhibit two like outseams and which yet en- ;tbles manufacturers to preserve all style efects.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated, and the shoemaking process having been specifically described, what is claimed as new, is:

1. The method of making welt shoes of the type havin a double-decked margin which comprises orming a two deck welt the top deck of which presents an outwardly-facing shoulder and having a surface-stitched seam along the top face of said top desk next to said shoulder and throughout its length, as sembling upper materials and an insole on a last, inseaming said surface-stitched welt to the upper and insole at one side of said stitching in the welt, applying an outsole, and outseaming said welt to the outsole by surface-stitching at the other side of said stitching in the welt.

2. A welt shoe of the type having a doubledecked margin consisting of upper materials, an insole, an outsole, and a two deck welt composed of two strips of material, the top deck strip being located in the shoe crease to present an outwardly-facing shoulder above the bottom deck and an exposed top face outside of said crease, and carrying a line of surface-stitching in said exposed top face, said welt being secured in position by an inseam through its inner margin and the upper materials and insole at one side of the stitching in said top deck strip, and by a surface-stitched outseam through its outer margin at the other side of and parallel to the line of stitching in said top deck strip.

PEARL C. ARNOLD.

ing. The inseam 16 is sewed through the inner margin of the welt at one side of the line of stitching 30 in the top deck of the welt and thereafter the outseam 18 is sewed through the outer margin of the welt at the other side of said stitching in the welt. When the shoemaking process is completed. the inseam is intact and secure but the margin of the shoe exhibits the two parallel outseams characteristic of double deck shoes.

Attention is especially called to the fact that in the manufacture of a doubledeck shoe using my novel welt no additional seam is required other than the usual inseam and outseam. The process of making the shoe is carried forward without departure from the usual practice exce and this is highly important, a two deal welt provided with an exposed line of surface-stitching through the length of the top deck is employed as a unitary article to produce the doubledeck edge on the shoe.

I believe that I am the first to produce a doubledeck welt shoe having only one outseam for securing the outsole to the welt while yet exhibiting two outseams at the margin, one in each deck; and I believe that I am the first to practice the process of making doubledeck welt shoes that will exhibit two like outseams and which yet enables manufacturers to preserve all style effects.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated, and the shoemaking process having been specifically described, what is claimed as new, is:

1. The method of making welt shoes of the type havin a double-decked margin which comprises orming a two deck welt the top deck of which presents an outwardly-facing shoulder and having a surface-stitched seam along the top face of said top desk next to said shoulder and throughout its length, assembling upper materials and an insole on a last, inseaming said surface-stitched welt to the upper and insole at one side of said stitching 1n the welt, applying an outsole, and outseaming said welt to the outsole by surface-stitching at the other side of said stitching in the welt.

2. A welt shoe of the type having a doubledecked margin consisting of upper materials, an insole, an outsole, and a two deck welt composed of two strips of material, the top deck strip being located in the shoe crease to present an outwardly-facing shoulder above the bottom deck and an exposed top face outside of said crease, and carrying a line of surface-stitching in said exposed top face, said welt being secured in position by an inseam through its inner margin and the upper materials and insole at one side of the stitching in said top deck strip, and by a surface-stitched outseam through its outer margin at the other side of and parallel to the line of stitching in said top deck strip.

PEARL 0. ARNOLD.

Certificate of Correction.

It is hereb certified that in Letters Patent No. 1,597,874, granted August 31, 1926, to Pear C. Arnold, of West Hanover, Massachusetts, for an improvement in Shoesand Processes of Making the tion requiring correction as follows: Page a semicolon; same page,

line 42, claim 1, for the word desk read deck; should be read with these corrections therein that the same may record of the case in the Patent Office.

Signed and sealed this 2d day of Novemher,A D. 1926.

Same, errors 1, line 27, after the word seam insert line 88, for the word material read mammals; page 3,

appear in the printed specificaand that the said Letters Patent conform to the WM. A. KINNAN, Acting Uornmissiomr of Patents.

Certificate of Correction.

It is hereby certified that in Letters Patent No. 1,597,874, granted August 31, 1926, to Pearl C. Arnold, of West Hanover, Massachusetts, for an improvement in Shoesand Processes of Making the Same, errors appear in the printed specification requiring correction as follows: Page 1, line 27, after the word seam insert a semicolon; same page, line 88, for the word material read materials; page 3, line 42, claim 1, for the word desk read deck and that the said Letters Patent should be read with these corrections therein that the same may conform to the record of the case in the Patent Office.

Signed and sealed this 2d day of November,'A. D. 1926.

' WM. A. KINNAN,

Acting Commissiom of Patents.

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