US1597369A

US1597369A - Sewing machine for making festoons

Info

Publication number: US1597369A
Application number: US33478A
Authority: US
Inventors: Mischke Karl
Original assignee: Duerkoppwerke GmbH
Current assignee: Duerkoppwerke GmbH
Priority date: 1924-06-04
Filing date: 1925-05-28
Publication date: 1926-08-24
Anticipated expiration: 1943-08-24

Description

Aug. 24 1926.

K. MISCHKE SEWING MACHINE FOR MAKING FESTOONS Filed May 28, 1925 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 aomj S1 Aug. 24 1926. y 1,597,369

K. MISCHKE SEWING MACHINE FDR MAKING FESTOONS 4 Filed May 28, 1925 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 Aug. 24 1926.

Filed May 28, 1925 5 Show-Sheet 5 Aug. 24

K. MISCHKE SEWING MACHINE FOR MAKING FESTOONS 5l sheets-Sheva 4 Filed May 28, '1925 1A f l w M A Aug. 24, 192e. 1,597,369 K. MISCHKE SEWING MACHINE FOR MAKING FESTOONS Filed May 28. 1925 5 Sheets-Shoot 5 um: mscnxn, or zUnIcH,

PATENT OFFICE.

SWITZERLAND, ASSIGNOB T DUBXOP A.G., 0f

BraLnrnLn, GERMANY.

sume-mem son Maxine rus'rootlsrao Applieatio'lled Iay 28, 1925, Serial No. 33,478, and, in Switzerland June 4, 1924.

The present invention relates to sewing machines' for making festoons, of the t pe rovided with a cross-slide and a mem r or cutting the vedge of the festoons obliquely arranged to the .vertical plane of the needles, so ,that the point of intersection between the axisl of the cutting member and the vertical plane of the needles lis lin the plane of movement of the material.

o Repeated attempts have been madeto provide sewing machines which -sewthe festoons and'simultaneously cut the edges of the fabric. Forsewing festoons at least two needles are required, one of which, the

l5 edge needle, penetrates into the fabric at the outer edge'of the festoon `vwhilst the other -needle is the sewing needle @which penetrates into the fabric at the inner edge.

of the festoon. It is only possibleto sew and cut edges and arcs when the cutting is performed at exactly the same spot in which the edge needle stitches into the fab-v ric when sewing around the latter. The cutting organ mustbe small so that `the acute corners present' with festoons can be cut.` To solve this problem, the cutting member is' arranged obliquely tothe festoon needles whereby the axis of the cutting member'intersects the'plane in which the exactly at the spot in -which the cutting member` cuts the fabric. As with this proposalV the lower end of the cutting member, which is very thin cuts freelfy and .without being guided into the abric the cut is not exact enough. Further it has been proposed to provide an extension onl the cutting knife to obtain a idance for the latter 'and the knife has n-pressed bymeans of a spring against g the edge of an aperture through which the knife passed when cutting. The cooperation of the knife with the edge of the aperturef was intended to perform a good cut also in case the fabric was'diiiicult to be cut and the knife got blunt. With this arrangement the knife cuts at 'another spot than that at lwhich'the needle stitches the1 fabric'for sewing around the latter and a perfect cutting was therefore not obtained; the design of the knownv machine did not permit a coincidence of` thepoint at which the edge needle stitches into the fabric with the point at which the knife cuts.

Furthermore with machines for sewing for holding or pressing fabric is moved so that the needle stitchesl festoons it is of utmost importance that the? fabric is 4securelg1 shifted or transported in I the correct manner. With the known-ma.` t chines of this type either only an upper' fabric" shift-ing device or a lower fabric oo shifting device or both have 'been rovided. With machines for sewing button cles the movement of a longitudinal slide a transverse slide, the 'so-called cross-slide, is known as well vas the rovision of means e5 the fabric which bear on the latter during the sewing of a button hole.

In order-toensure'a safe and correct transport or feed of the fabric to be provided with festoons by means of an upper and a lower fabric shifting device, the fabric shifting device on the machine according to the present invention` having a cross slide is provided with a swing'ably mount- 75 edlever for pressing the fabric, the lever bei raised and lowered onto the fabric in re ar intervals duringv the sewing of festoons. A

It is further necessary to shift the fabric relatively to the festoon needles in .the ri ht moment and b the requisite amount van a direction W 'ch is required at that momen't by means of a suitably timed actuation ofthe cutting member, of the pressing lever, of theI longitudinalslide and the vtransverse slide and of the two needles. `Meanshave therefore to be provided-to acs tuate all these organsand said means must derive their movements from the drive lof 9o the machine. {In this manner means for actuating the longitudinal slide on the cro slide must cooperate with that slide which imparts a variable to and fro movement toK the latter and actuating Ymeans must oper- ')95 ate thetransver'se -slide adapted to impart to the, latter a. to and fro movement that4 takes into account the necessary distance of the `stitches from each otherseen in vthe direction of movement of the.` transverse slide. The cutting'member according to the invention conslsts of upper knife and of a lower knife cooperating with each other inspite of the different movements which the two knives carry out. :The u per .105 knifeis continuously an larly adj according to the'shape o the festoons to be cut sothat its edge is always a tangentto the arc ofthe '-festoon.. .Q

When an adjusting movement correspondments of the needle bar. When the needles are withdrawn from the fabric the shiftingu or feed movement of the fabric occurs and1 as soon as the latter is nished the cut is performed. After the latter the needles stitch again into the fabric. As soon as the needle bar is lifted so far that the needles are clear of the fabric the up r knife is already at, such a height that the fabric enters a recess in the upper knife when it is shifted by suitable means. During the furtherturning of the machine the downwardly moving upper knife in cooperation with the lower knife, (which is at that moment stationary in its uppermost position, cuts the fabric. After the cutting 'action is finished the lower knife performs a quick movement in the axial direction, i. e. in an oblique downward direction, so that the ledge needle does not hit the lower knife during its downward ymovement during which 'movement it passes through a rece of the upper'knife.

According to another feature of thein vention the movements of the transverse slide and of the longitudinal slide are controlled by a cam disc which carries out a step 'by step movement. The shape of the circumference of the cam disc is determined by the shape of the festoon to beproduced and the 'cam is used to cause the turning movement of the cutting member, i. e. of the upper and the lower knife, about its longi-A tudinal axis. Furthermore the circumference of the cam disc is utilized to control the movement of the longitudinal slide in accordance with the shape of the arc of the festoon to be -sewn and out with the aid of a udriving/...disc in .which an arc shaped slide is so mounted that it is ada ted to reciprocate. To this arc shaped s ide the drivinlg lever for the longitudinal slide islinked as well as a driving rod to which a reciprocating movement is imparted by suitable organs from the main driving shaft of the machine. The drivingdisc serves as a bearing for the arc-shaped slide and is adjusted by thefcam disc.

The extent of the step by step adjustment of the cam disc may be adjusted to correspond to a desired distance of the stitches ofthe needles from each other so that the festoon stitches may be arranged closer to or farther away yfrom each other.

f Further through the intermediary of the cam disc the distance of the needle stitchesv from each other may be automatically so influenced that the stitches at the beginning and at the end of each festoon may be closer to each other than inthe middle part of the festoon arc.

Furthermore mea-ns may be provided by for instance by the main shaft instead of being infiuenced by the cam disc. A device may be provided to completely cut out the action of the cam disc, whereby the radius of the festoon are would become infinite, or in other words, the festoon arc would be a festoon ed e which device permits at the same time tlgie control of the driving disc and thereby also the cutting member by hand so that the production of irregular festoon ,arcs having a pattern whichY does not repeatitself and cannot be fixed by the cam disc circumference is rendered possible.

Constructional examples of the subject matter of the present invention are illustrated on the accompanying drawings, inl

which Fig. 1 shows the machine in elevation,

Fig.- 2 is a horizontal section along line I-'I in Fig. 1 with parts shown in a plan,

Fig. 3 shows the machine as seen from below in Fig. 1,

Fig. 4 shows a front elevation of Fig. 1,

Fig. 5 is a section along line V-V in Fi 1 Y Fig. 6 is a section along line VI-VI in Fi 1,

Fig. 7 is asection along line VII- VII in Fig. 1, p

Fig. 8 is a plan view of 7 with parts shown in section,

. Fig. 9 is a section along line IX-IX in Fig. 2, FFig. 10 is a section along line X--X 1n Fig. 11 is a section of a detail,

12 showson an enlarged scale details of the guidances for the slides in a section along line XII- XII in Fig. 2,

Fig. 13 shows ak further detail of the 'guidances for the slides on an enlarged` scale,

`igs. 14 and 15 shows details of the cutting organs or knives on an enlarged scale,

F ig. 16 shows in detail and in a vertical longitudinal section the tightening device for the thread, j

Fig. 17 shows in a front view the fixation of the cover for the annular gripper,

Fig. 18 isa side view of the gripper shown in Fig. 17,

Fig. 19 is a perspective view of one of the Y are and of the feeding-movements of the feeding movements of the fabric,

Fig. 21 shows-in a diagrammatic manner the vpositions of the 'knives relatively to l 'the edge of the festoon during the cutting- -machine seen from the thread laying mem Yber, A

Fig. 25 is a' section along line XXV- -XXV in Fig. 24, .4 n

Fig. 26 shows on an enlarged scale in front elevation and sideview the thread guiding member and the end of the needles in their operative positions, '20 Fig. 27 is a plan view of one of the details shown in Fig. 26,

Fig. 28 is a view `of the brake for the" thread and Fig. 29 shows on an enlar d scale a Sec' tion along line XXIX-X X inzFig. 28. Referringnow to the .drawings in the frame 50 of theI sewing machine for making festoons the driving shaft 51'is mounted in the known manner and projectsbeyond 30 the frame to carry the ily wheel 52 and a driving pulley V53 which is rotated in a known manner from any source of power by means of a cord 'or any other suitable power .transmission organ. A lookin nut 54 serves in a Vknown manner to esta lish and disconnect the -operative connection be tweenthe driving pulley 53 and the driving shaft 51 so that the latter Vcan be revented-from rotating. The driving aft 5l is provided with two cranks and foon= nectlng rods 55 which impart rotation to the lower main shaft 56. The latter isl mounted .in the bearings 57.

The frame is supported on the base ,Y .15 plate 40 and carries at its front end 58 the guidances fdr the drive of the needle, of

which the bar for actuating the needles isV designated b 59. rIhe frame 50 of the machine is furt erfprovidedwith two bearings 50 in which the shaft 19 is rotatably mount'- ed.- Oscillatory movements are imparted tothe latter by an eccentric 61 lixed to the driving shaft 51 and the shaft 19` actuates the knife bar 15 'by means of an arm 18 55 fixed to one end of the shaft 19. The knife bar' is mounted in a bracket 16 sup-ported by the front end- 58 of the machine frame 50 and carries at its lower end the upper knife 2 cooperating. with the lowerknife 60' 1v as isshown in detail in Fi 12, f14 and l5. The lower knife is turnable in vJa suspended bearing 4 fixed to thebase plate 40. To'one of the two connecting rods 55V a 55 leverv 62 is linked which cooperates with the horizontal arm of said frame.

a secondlever 63 drivin the axle`64. VThe latter is mounted in a racket 65 fixed to the vertical part of the frame 50 and berilw Y 'e' axle 64 pro'ects beyond the bracket 65. The free end o the axle 64 carries a crank 66 to which a sliding block 68 (Fig. 6) is adjustably fixed by means of a vWinged nut 67; the sliding block 68 is further adjustable in two slotted arms 69 of a ringdisc 70. The ring disc is turnable about an axle 71 and carries two pawls 72 arranged be- .side each other, (only one pawl is shown f .in Fig. 5), which are forced by a spring 74 to `cooperate with a ,ratchet wheel 73:8 The latter is carried on the axle 71 which is Y rotatably mounted in abracket 65. At the side of the ratchet wheel thel cam disc 76 (Fig. 1) is mounted on the axle 71. The

cam disc 76' and the ratchet wheel 73 are 35 caused to rotate by a pin 75 fixed to the axle 71 (Fig. `11). At the end of the latterA a nut 77 operated by hand is provided and serves to press the cam disc 76 against the ratchet wheel 7 3.

On the bracket A65 a carrier arm 78 is attached -and a pin 79 is fixed onsaid arm. A double armed lever 80 is pivoted on the in 79 and the lever 80 carries at one of its free ends a roller 81 pressed against tlie 95 circumference ofthe cam disc 76 by the actionof a s ring 82 cooperating with the lower end o the double armed lever 80. The otlerend of the latter 'is linked to`a lever 83 fixed to a further lever 84 (Fi 7), the latter being rotatably mounted with one end`in the base plate 40. As is shown in Fig. 7 the'. lever or link 83 is not directly fixed to the lever 84 but through the intermediary of asleeve 85 which can be ad` justed and fixed in position so that the movements ofthe double armed lever 80 -caused by the rotation of the cam disc 76 nerate a larger or smaller movement ofv t e end of the lever 84 depending on the 110 adjustment of the sleeve 85. The end of the lever 84 carries an axle 86 on which two sliding blocks 87 'are provided, each of which is displaceable in a slot 88 of a crank 89 and can be adjusted nearer to or farther away from the'auxiliaryshaft 90. The two 4cranks 89 are fixed on the auxiliary shaft 90 and displace the latter when they are adf justed.v A lever 91 is operatively connected tothe axle 8 6 and the lever 91 is rocked by an eccentric 92 fixed on the main shaft 56. When the eccentric l92 is adjusted in a definite mannerthe lever 91 performs a movement of a constant extent. TheV angular extent through which the auxiliary shaft 90 rocks would be constant if the adistance of the sliding blocks 87 from the centre of the auxiliary shaft 90 were constant. distance is, however, influenced by the movements of the double armed lever 80 through 13* the intermediary ofthe link 83, the sleeve 85 and the lever 84. When these members eause the sliding blocks 87 to move away y nearer to the auxiliaryshaft 90.

It is further possible to adjust the eccentric 92 in a known manner so that its throw gets'larger or smaller. The movements of lthe auxiliary shaft 90 are now utilized to cause the movements of the transverse slide 31. To Vthis end a crank 93 is fixed to the auxiliaryshaft 90 and a connecting rod 47 is linked to the crank l93 and cooperating fus with the transverse slide 31, by means of a beak-95 (Fig. 12). The transverse slide 31 moves in a guideplate 39 which carries the stitch plate 48. The longitudinal slide M32 is movable in the transverse slide 31 and at right'.-angles to the movements of the latter.

On the longitudinal slide 32 a lever 33 for pressing the fabric (Fig. 2) is mounted in the bearings 34 (Fig. 10) so that the pressure lever can be raised and lowered and is provided with a fork shaped foot 343 the lower side of which is roughened. This pressure lever surrounds the two festoon needles as well as the foot of a drag spring 37 which also surrounds the festoon needles on three sides and is fixed to the rod for pressing the fabric. For simplicity the festoon needles 41 and 49 are shown in their raised position .in Figs. 1 and 4; the needle 49 is the so-called edge needle intended for stitching into the fabric at the edge of the festoon at which place the upper knife 2 cooperating with the lower knife 1 vcuts the fabric. ,y

,The end ofthe pressure lever 33 remote from the foot of the pressure'bar is connected to an actuating rodv 97 which carries out reciprocating movements in the vertical direction. at given moments in order` to rock the pressure lever. 33 inits bearings 34 and to thereby raise and lower the foot 43. The part ofthe pressure lever 33 carrying the foot V43 'is influenced by a spring 35 which tends to `press the foot 43 down onto/the longitudinal slide 32. The part of the latter situated below the foot 43 is also roughened. The lower side of the foot and the part of the longitudinal slide below the fpot may also be lined with rubber. L'

The movements of the pressure'lever 33 are derived from an eccentric 96 on themain shaft 56 (Figs. 1 and 10). `.The eccentric rotates continuously with the rotating main shaft and therefore a rod 97 operativelv connected'to the eccentric 96 continuously moves up and down. The end of the rod 97 carries an abutment 98 which is at a certain distance fro the pressure lever 33 when the eccentric 9 is in its highest posilever 33 which moves downwards together with the ""foot 43 by the action of the spring 35.

With the longitudinal lslide 32 the lever 45 cooperates and causes the fo-rmer to carry out the necessary movements. The movements of the leve-r 45 are variable and are derived from the driving disc 99 (Fig. 2).

The latter is turnable within al recessed disc 100 (Fig. 9). In the driving disc 99 an arc-shaped slide 101 is adjustably mounted as is -sh'own in Fig. 2. The arc-shaped slide 101 carries a universal j int 102, towhich a driving rod 103 is con ected and which leads to a crank 104 (Fig. 1) loosely turnaile on the auxiliary shaft 90 (Figs. 1 and 3 causedby an eccentricarm 105 (Figs. 3 and 5) and are derived from an eccentric 106 fixed to the main shaft 56. This eccentric The movements of the crank 104 are may also be adjustable in order to adjust the extent of the movements of the arm 105. The adjustment of the eccentric 106 may be performed in a known manner. l

.The movements of the arcshaped slide 101 are transmitted by the driving disc 99 to the lever 45 and thereby to ,the longitudinall slide 32. The extent of these movements is iniiuenced in 'that thedrivingv disc 99 is angularly adjusted. To this end on the driving disc 99 (Fig. 9) a universal joint 107 is provided to which a rod- 108 is linked,I which is connected with the double armed lever 80 (Fig. 2). As has been mentioned above the movements of the lower end of the double armed lever 80 are controlled by the cam disc 76. When the roller 81, at the upper end of the double armed lever 80 is distanced from the axle 71 bythe cam disc 76 the lever80 swings around the pivot pin 79 in a clockwise direction. In consequence thereof the rod 108 actuates the driving disc los 99 so that the latter turns somewhat in the 115 anti-clockwise direction when looking from above. Simultaneously `the arc-shaped slide 101 changes its position;l the further the roller 81 is distanced from theaxle 71 (Fig. l

5) in accordance with the shape ofthe cam disc 76 the more the driving disc 99 (Fig. 2) is turned. Thereby the arc shaped slide is moved from the position n indicated in full lines in Fig. 2 into the position 114 in`- dicated in chain dotted linesfinFig. 2.

Inboth positions 114 and 115l of the arc shaped slide 101 i. e. in that shown in ,full lines as well as in that shown in chain-dotted nal slide 32 perform their largest strokes at lines, the lever 45 and vthereby the longitiidil j monaco the beginning and at'the `end of a festoon ments occur in the middle of the festoon arc arc, and' reference may be had to 'Fig 20 of so that the distance 113 is smaller than the of the need e are indicated by small circles each other in the the drawin in which the various stitches distance 112. The stitches are closest to 4 corners where two festoons connected by 'strai ht lines. It may fur. meet. y j therv be seen from ig. 20 that the feed of On the base vplate 40 a pin 124 is provided, the fabric at the beginning of making a fes about which a hand lever 125 is turnable' i, toon is indicated b the distance 110 and inl the latter has an edge eccentrically arranged Y illustrated dpositions 114 and 115 of the arc with the circumference of the cam the middle part o the festoon by the dis'- to the pin 124 against which the lower art tance 111, which distances are measured in of the double armed lever 8O bears.l his the directionof movement of thelongitudihand lever 125 permits the lever 80 to be nalsilde 32. The distance 110 is larger than brought Vout ofcontact with the cam disc the distance 111. Intermediate of the two 76 so thatthe roller 81 no longer coo rates 'se 76. shaped'sli e the latter 'occupies .such posi- Thereby the possibility exists of cutting out tions by which the movements of the longithe movements ofthe lon itudnal slide and tudinal slides become smaller. In the midthe turning movements o the cutting mem- -dle position between the positions 114 and ber, i. e. ofthe up rknife2 andlower knife 115 theA longitudinal slide does not move as f1, so thatno arc-s aped festoons are madebut the displacement of the arc-shaped slide 101 festoons along la straight edge of the fabric.

in connection with the position of the driv- Theha-nd lever 125-further permits the sewing disc 99 gives no longitudinal displaceing of the festoons which have an irregular i lon itudinal slide 32.

ment of the lever 45 and Atherefore of the shape that is not repeated and can therefore not be fixed by a cam disc.

hen the roller 81 of the double armed Obviouslyyfor festoons having a different 'lever 80 has reached the position relative shape to the festoon 116 shown in Fig. 21,

to the cam disc 76 shown in Fig. 23, the suba cam disc must be inserted which has a difv sequent turning of the cam disc 76 will cause' ferently shapedl circumference to that of the the roller 81 to spring into the position shown cam disc 76. It may further be mentioned in Fig. 22. Thereby the lower end of the that by the adg'ustment of the slidlng block lever 80 is suddenly turned back in the anti- 68 by means o the winged nut, the step b clockwise direction. The4 arc-shaped slide step movement'of' the cam disc can be a 101 springs from the position 114 indicated justed so that the `latter performs one revoin chain-dotted lines into the position. 115 lution in a shorter or longer time. In ac- 1'0 shown in vfull lines and the operation starts cordance therewith the length of the festoon again. ,gets shorter or longer and 1t creates the 1m- This sudden backward movement causes at the same time a sudden turning of the upper as the distances covered by the transverse pression of being steeper or more stretched knife together wtih the lower knife l; the slide become smaller or larger.. The pres- I knife`2 in this moment is in the corner of a ent machine is thus adapted to sew festoons -festoon andmust be turned through a large of any shape, arcs, corners and the like.

angle corresponding to the angle enclosed by Into the recess 3 (iFigs` 14 and 15) ofthe two adjacent festoons, as is shown in Fig. lower knife 1 a for 127 (Figs. 4 and 12) 21, in order to-passfrom a finished festoon projects which is operatively connected to to the next festoon. Simultaneously with members driven from the main shaft 56 by the gradual displacement of the arc-shaped .means ofv an eccentric 128. The eccentric the arc- 117 of the festoon as is indicated in means of a sleeve 133 to a slide 101 a gradual turning movement of the 128 is displaceable in a slot 129 provided in knife 2 tocor-respond to the shape of the a lever 130, which is swingably arranged on festoon to be cut has been performed, so an axle 131, suspended from the base plate that the upper knife 2 and the lower knife 40. The lever 130 `is linked at its free end .1 are always inthe position of a tangent to to a rod 132 which in its turn e r dotted lines 116 in Fig. 421. The movements To the latter the fork 127 1s rigidly con-A of the double armed lever 80 are transmitted nected sov that lwhen the rod 134 ls-lowered by means of the rod 118 (Fig. 2) the bel1 the `fork 127 is loweredas well and causes crank ,lever 119, the universal -joint 120 and the lowerin movement lof the lower knife 'the link 121 to .a pin 26 (Fig. 4) fixed on 1. The gui e rod 134 is axiall mczjablllln the control `lever 22 of the upper; knife 2. the bearin 4fixed tothe base ate .The bell crank lever 119 isturn'able about lowerkni e l-is freelygturnab e-,ir-the lfork an axle {122;1which is mounted in a lateral 1 27so tli'at it takespart in the tiu :nin'gmpve extension 123 of the bracket 65. ment transmitted to it It may further be seen 'from Fig. 20 that 2. The eccentric 128 e ects in a suitable the smallest movements of thetransverse moment a quick endwise downward moveslide .31 are at the beginning and at the end ment of the lower knife 1, i. e. .a movement of a festoon arcl whilstv the largest movein an oblique downward direction and thls takes place in the Amoment in which the danger that there is'edge needle 49 which passes lin its downward movement throu h a recess 11 (Fig. 15) of the upperkni e, might strike the lower knife.

The upper part of the lower` knife is provided with a long lon itudinal slot 7 extending exactly alon t e axis of -the knife, whereby two resi ient prongs 8 and 9' are formed, which are pressed towards each other so that the slot is comparatively nar,- row at its upper end. C,The end ofthe pron 8 is bevelled and forms the cutting edge o a pair` of scissors. The prong 9 is also bevelled at its-end but is somewhat shorter than 8 so hat the out-olf fabric is not clamped between the two prongs. The'bottom 10 ofthe slot 7 extends at an acute angle to the axis of the knife so thatlibres of the fabric formed by the cutting action cannot lodge themselves within the slot.

Theupper knife 2 is made of a flat piece and is provided besides the above mentioned recess 11 with a further recess 12 into which ,the fabric to be cut enters when the fabric is shifted or fed. Theart 13 is shaped to] .fo'rm the cuttin edge o a scissors in a similanmanner as t e cutting'edge of the lower.

The lower end 14 ofthe upper knife is pointed or chamfered so that it can be read- 1ly introduced intov'the resilient slot 7 of the lower knife. 'Ihe upper knife is fixed with its upper end in the lower end of the cutter bar 15, which is rotatably ,andaxially displaceably mounted. in a sleeve 23. The upward and downward' movement of the cutterl bar 15 necessary for the cutting action is imparted to the bar 15 by means of the universal joints `17 (Fig. 6) and the rocking lever provided at the end of the shaft 19. Y The sleeve 23 surroundin the cutter bar 15.is rotatably mounted at lts ends 20 and 21- the support 16 and carries at its low-A er end and rigidly connected to it the already mentioned controlling lever 22 (Fig.

4). To the latter a motion is, imparted corresponding to the shape of the festoon to be 25 is fixed which carries cut by means of the cam disc 76.

To the upper end ofthe slee've23 a-lever a pin 26 engaging wltha'n arm 24 Awhich is splined to the cutter bar 15, whereby to the cutter bar and to the knife 2 a rotating or oscillatin movement respectively is imparted which correspopds to the shape to be cut.

The.A needle bar performs the known'upL pulling rod 121 from the -ward-and downward movement.' The cutter bar performs a similarmovement which lleads relatively to the moyement of the needle bar.

As soon as the needle bar 59 has per- .i formed its upward movement so far that the Y. needles are withdrawn from the fabric,the

upper knife is also in its u ward position and the shifting or feed o 4 the fabric is effected by the movement of the transverse slide 31. The fabric has entered the recess 12 of the upper knife by the shifting motion. Upon the further turning motion of the machine the upper knife 2 cooperating withthe lower knife 1 cuts the fabric in the manner of scissors. As soon as the cutting action is finished the lower knife performs the above mentioned quick movement in an oblique downward direction. `The pointed end 14 `of the upper knife is guided in the llower knife and causesthe latter tov take part in the turning movement imparted to the u per Yknife to l correspond to the shape to lie cut. l' -Y As soon as the

needles

41 and 49 have stitched into the fabric the actuating rod 97 moves the rear end of the pressure lever 33 whereby the pressure foot isi lifted off the flat that the foot is lifted after every second stitch.

In order to insure that the hem stitches are nicely made, a member for laying the thread in positionI which may be cal'led the `thread guide is usedas is shown in F ig.k 1

and in a modified form in Figs. 24, 26 and 27. The thread guide 141 consists of a wire bent to a hook 151 as is shown in Figs. 26 and 27. The upper end of the thread guide is sw-ingably mounted on an arm'142 so that the thread guide is adapted to swing in the plane passing through both

needles

41 and 49. v. At the'needle bar 59 `a roller 144 is provided against which the thread guide 141 1s pressed by a spring 152. The arm 142 inv Fig. 1 is fixed to the head 58 of the machine. ,The upward and downward movement of the needle bar is caused by the driving shaft 51 provided with a head 136 at its end and a groove 137 being-arranged in the latter with which a roller 138 cooperates serving to movev the thread pulling member 162 in the upward and downward direction. At

itsfront end the headf136 is provided with a link f138 'fixed to a sleeve 139, the^latter the needle bar is mo ved/up and ldown when the shaft 51 rotates.q f

When the needle bar is in its lowest position the lower end ofthe thread guide 141 is aside of the needles.L During the upward movement of the needle bar 59 the roller 144 ybeing secured to the needle bar '59 so that bar' 153 by a pin 163 engaging a slot 148.

glides along'the thread guide 141, and as soon as acertain height is reached, the latter. performs a" movement towards the needles owing to its shape and under the iniluence of the s ring. 152. Owing to this movement the e fre 158 of the hook forces the threads, which pass through the

needles

41 and 49 .into the fabric, to the side .and as soon as the needle bar 59 moves downwardly the

threads

159 and 160 are-caught by the hook 151 of the thread guide 141. Thereby the thread 159 of the needle 41 is so presented 'to the edge needle 49 in theform of a loop that with the shifting of the fabric which occurs towards the observer in Figs. 1 and 26, the needleg49 enters the 'loop and the thread 159 is sewn to the -fabric as may be seen in Fig. 26. The thread 160l of the needle 49 is then pulledsligh'tl to `one side so that it is beyond the path o the downwardly moving edge needle 49. Thereby an improvement of the stitch is obtained' inasmuch 'as all the threads lron'i4 the needles are gripped by the thread guide andare pulled aside'of the plane of the needles so that a nice edge may be sewn.

In Fig. 24 the thread guide 141 is shown in connection with an ornamental stitch'machine with which the needle bar 153 carries out a turning motion. A wheel 150 studded with pins servesin a knownmanner'to turngthe needle bar 153 as the wheel 150-is operatively connected' to a sleeve 145. The upward 'and downward movement of the needle bar 153 is caused by means of agliding ring 147, which grips the sleeve 145. and is in operative connection with the needle .The gliding ring 147 is rotatably mounted in a non-rotatable-guide slide 149 surrounding the sleeve'145. On the slide 149 a pin 154 is provided withy which the crank gear 155 cooperates and which serves to'move the needle bar 153 up and'down. fThe latter carries in its lower part the two vneedles 41' and 49 in a similar manner as is shown in Fig. 1. The arm 142o/f the thread guide 141 is,-however', not fixed to the frame 50 bu-t to the turnable sleeve 145 and receives the same turning motion "as ,theneedles. `The manner of operation of the `device according to Figs. 24 and 25 is Athe same as described Pabove with reference to Figs. 1,

26 and..27.The wheel 150 vserves to turn Upon the main shaft 56 (Fig.,5) and o n Y 'an extension ofthe connecting rod 55` a connecting rod 164 fs provided which causes the rotation of the couplingmember 167 lby -means of a drag crank gear-165.xedto a shaft 166. At.- the other end of the shaft 166 a screw wheel 168is fixed meshing with a screw wheel 169`on a transverse shaft170 which drives the gripper of a ring shuttle (Fig. 4)`. y l v As will be seen in Figs. 17 and18 in a gripper carriage 171 the gripper 172 is turnably mounted and within the latter the reel casinar 173 o'r the thread reel is arranged. At the lower part of the carriage 171, a` pedestal 174 is providedin which the cover 175 of the reel casing, which is turnable about a pin 176 and locked by a hook 17-7, is turnably mounted. The hook 177 is turnable about a pivot 178 and is provided with a lug 179 arranged in front of the cover 180 and prevents the removal ofthe cover of the gripper: are provided at the-'carriage for the gripper, the cover being provided with corresponding apertures.

' Into the pedestal 174 a; set screw with a milled head .182 is screwed and presses with its head against two parallel arms 183.o'f a resilient stirrup 184 which presses with its two ends 185 on the cover 1n the direction v ward direction by means of the handle 186 and maybe removed from the cover. The

slightly larger than the diameter ofthe threaded partl88, Fig/18 of the set screw.

-As may be vseen in Fig. 18 the ends 185 of the gripperrare vnot ,in the same plane as the two arms 183 and rest with their end parts n' of only on the cover 180. The tightenin the set lscrew 182 causes an increase ofl5 the pressure exerted by the ends 185 of the stir-` `rup,,. 184 against the cover 180, by- .unserewing the'1 set screw this pressure 1s released. By a pressure on the hook'177 against the,

action of the spring 187 the cover 180 is released after the cover 175 has been turned .distance of the two arms from each other is in the downward direction and it can vbe y lifted 'olf the locking pins 181. The coverv may readily be placed in position and it the two pins 181 and it is also' secured against a displacement by said. pins.

The shape of the resilient stirrup pre'- vents the screw which holds the stirru osition from being ycompletely remove be-Y ore the stirrup can be `removed Afrom the cover which is an essential advantage. In-

Astead of making the stirrup lof wire it may 'V .obviously be-made by stamping.-

' Asis shown in Fi 1 and 5 a late 192 is, fixed by means .ov a screw to t e upper part of the frame 50 of the machine. This late is slightly arched' and carries at its 'ghest point a pin 194" fixed to it. Around the pin 194 a weight -195 providedV with a las -weight and the plate 192. To the pin 194 a' stirupv 199 ispclamped the free end of which is formedas a guide hook 190 over 4which the thread 200 from the reel 201 passes. lThe latter is shown in Fig. 4. The weight 195 clamps the thread 200 between the plate 192 and the edge 191 ofthe weight and acts thus as av brake to the thread 200. With this 1arrangement it is ensured that the braking action is effective during the reelmg.

The weight 195l is. provided at its circumference with a recess 193 (Fig. 2) with which a screw 189 lengages in order to fix the position of the Weight relatively to thef plate 192. y Y

The Weight may also rest with its whole lower face on the upper face of the plate and the latter does not need to be arched and may have any other sha e permitting a braking action of the weig t on the thread From the brake the thread passes over a guide 202 and from there to another guide 203 arranged on the front part of the machine (Fig. 4) on the end of the shaft 19.

From this guide the two threads 200 pass through a thread .tightening device xed -to .A the front of the head 58 of the -,frame 50 (Fig. 1). This tightening device ispro-v vided with two pairs of clamping,

discs

211 and 212 arranged on a common axle 213. On the latterA a nut 204 is provided. Between the nut 204 and the foremost clamping disc of the pair of clamping discs 211 there is inserted a spiral spring 205, which can be tightened more or less by a turning yof the nut 204 so that the pressure by which the clamping discs tend to bear against each other can be increased or decreased. y

Below the two pairs of clamping discs two guide members 208 for the threads 200 to be braked or tensioned respectively are P0 turnably mounted on an axle 207. Each of the threads isnow separatelyfpassedbetween' the clamping discs of one pair of the latter and to one side of the axle 213, thereupon they are slung laround a guide member 208 ,and are again passed between a pair of clamping discs on the" other side of the axle 213. With this guidance the clamping 'of the thread -is quite uniform as also with an unequal thickness of the thread a metallic contact between the clamping discsl is "avoided so that the festoon becomes more uniform. v

Instead of the guide discs 208, obviously other guide members such as hooks, pins and the like may be provided.

In Figs. 28 and29 a more compact arrangement is shown in which the guide members are not singly attached to the front end of the machine frame but are united as a unitary structure and fixed as such to the frame. With this arrangement the guide members 209 are mounted on the plate 210 on which the pairs of lclamping discs 211fand 212 are mounted through the intermediary of the axle 207. The guide members 209 ar turnable about an axle 214. g. To protect the spring 205 a sleeve 215 is provided in which the spring is lodged so that dust and dirt have no access to the spring. A guide hook 206 is mounted on the plate for the incoming threads.

Thel threads pass thus over the guide hook 206 then through the braking organ and arrive at the thread pulling member 162 from which they pass through an eyelet 216 provided with two apertures to the eyes of the needles. l

'j The thread leading to the edge needle must be tensioned so that the threads bordering the edge of the festoon are tightly drawn, and its tension must be greater than that of the thread passing through the needle- 41. From this reason the thread for the edge needle is separately braked by the weight 195 of the braking device mounted on the frame 50.

In Fi s. 4 only one reel 201 is shown. In front o .the latter a second reel is placed from which the thread to the edge needle is supplied. The other reel 201 is, however indicated in Fig. 1. l

The seam is` produced by the two needles l41 and 49 (Fig. 1), two needle threads'and presents it to the needle 49 in such a 'manner that the latter stitches through the loop of the/ thread caused by the thread guide which gives the connection of the two threads on the upper side of the fabric. At the lower side of the fabric the connection between the two needle threads is effected b the lower thread inasmuch as the catches the two thread loops and introduces v-the lower thread into said loops;A

-The proper shifting movement of the fabric, which has to correspond to the different shapes of the festoon to-be produced, is imparted to the latter by means of the cross slide, of which 32 (Fig 2) is the longitudi- 'nal slide and 31 denotes the transverse slide.

on the fabric ready to perform the next shifting movement. v

int o `the gripper of the ring shuttle l The shifting movement is carried out by the operator.

The formation of the festoons is caused by twomovements: the movement in the direction in which the stitches are beside each other whereby a straight seam is effected and Awhich is caused. by the meansi89-93 (Fig. 3) as herein'bcfore described in detail and the movement at right angles to the first mentioned `movement hereinbefore described and caused by the

means

32, 45, 113, 114.

The fabric is cut along the edge of the festoon as soon as the fabric has on its feed motion entered the recess 12, (Figs. 14 and 15) of the upper knife by the cooperation ofthe latter with the lower knife which is then in its uppermost position. As soon as the cutting action is finished the needles stitch into the fabric and the lower knife performs simultaneously a' quick movement in an oblique downward direction to prevent the needle 49 from contacting with the lower knife.

The control of the movement ofthe fabric and of the knives is effected by the cam disc 76 if consecutive festoons having the .same arc shape have to be made. The cam disc may be rendered ineffective andthe shifting of the fabric may be performed by means of the hand lever 125, Fig. 2.

1. In a sewing machine for making festoons, in combination, two needles adapted to reciprocate in the vertical direction, a

-driving shaft, means interposed between said driving shaft and Said needles to impart a reciprocating movement in the vertical direction to the latter, a cutting member, means adapted to shift the fabric comprising a transverse slide for shifting the fabric in the longitudinal direction thereof and a longitudinal slide for shifting the fabric in the transverse direction thereof, the cutting member being obliquely arranged and the point of intersection between the axis of thecutting member and the vertical plane of the needles being in the plane of movement of the fabric. a cam disc the circumference of which corresponds to the shape of the festoon to be made, an operative connection between said longitudinal slide and said cutting member and said cam disc, and means interposed between said cam disc and said driving shaft to impart a step by step movement to the former.

2. In a sewing machine for making fes? toons, in combination, two needles adapted to reciprocate in the vertical direction, a

l driving shaft, means interposed between said driving shaft and said' needles to impart a reciprocating movement in the vertical direction to the latter, a cutting member, means adapted to shift the fabric comprisment of the fabric, alcam disc the circumference of which corresponds to the shape of the festoon to be made, an operative connection between said longitudinal slide and said cutting member and sa1d cam dlsc which connection includes a driving disc,v

a two-armed lever cooperating with said cam ,disc andsaid driving disc and transmission means interposed between'the driving disc and the longitudinal slide, and means interposed between said cam dise and said driving shaft to impart a step by step movement to the former.

3. In a sewing machine for making festoons, in combination, two needlesadapted tov reciprocate in the vertical direction, a driving shaft, means interposed between said driving shaft and said needles to impart a reciprocating movement in the vert-ical direction to the latter, a cutting member turnably mounted about its axis, means adapted to shift the fabric comprising a transverse slide for shifting the fabric in the longitudinal direction thereof and a longitudinal slide for shifting the fabric in the transverse direction thereof, the cutting member being obliquely arranged and the point of intersection between the axis of the cutting member and the vertical plane of the needles being in the plane of movement of the fabric, a cam disc the circumference of which corresponds to the shape of the Vfestoon to be made, an operative connection `between said lon itudinal slide and said cutting member an said cam disc, which connection includes a driving disc, a two-armed lever cooperating with said cam disc and said driving disc and transmission means inter osed between driving disc and the longitu inal slide, means interposed between said two armed lever and said cutting member for effecting the turning motion of the latter, and means interposed between said cam disc and said driving shaft to impart a step by step movement tothe former.

4. In a sewing machine for making festoons, in combination, two needles adapted to reciprocate in the vertical direction, a.

v driving shaft, means interposed between said verse direction thereof, the cutting member being obliquely arranged and the point of intersection between the axis of the cutting member and the vertical plane of the nee- 'dles `being in the plane of movement of the fabric, a cam disc the circumference of which corresponds to the shape of the festoon to be made, -an operative connection between said longitudinal slide and said-cutting member and said cam disc which connection includes a. driving disc, altwo armed lever cooperating with said cam disc and said driving discand. transmission means interposed between the driving disc and the longitudinal slide, an arc-shaped slide adapted to reciprocate in said driving disc, means 'interposed `between said arc shaped slide and said longitudinal slide for operating the latter,l a driving rod linked to said arc-shaped slide and adapted to carry out reciprocating movementsf and means interosed between said cam disc and said drivmg shaft toimpart a st'ep-by-step movement to the former.

5.. In a sewing machine for making festoons, in combination, two needles adapted to reciprocate in the vertical direction, a

driving shaft, 'means interposed between said driving shaft and said needles to impart a reciprocating movement in the vertical direction to the latter, acutting mem-` ber turnably mounted about its axis, means: adapted to shift the fabric comprising av transverse slide for shifting the fabric in. the longitudinal direction thereof and a longitudinal slide for shifting the fabric in the transverse direction thereof, the cutting member being obliquely arranged and the oint of intersection betweenv the axis of 't e cutting member and the vertical plane of the needles'being in the plane of movement of the fabric, a cam disc the cir` cumference of which corresponds to the shape of the festoon to be made, an o erative connection between said longitu inal slide and said cutting member and said cam disc which 'connection includes `a driving disc, a two-armed lever cooperating with said cam disc and said drivingdisc and transmission means interposed between the driving disc and the longitudinal slide, means interposed between said two armed lever and said cutting member for effecting the turnin motion of the latter, a resilient member adapted to hold said two armed lever in Contact with said cam4 disc, and means interposed between said cam disc and said driving shaft to impart a step-by-step movement to the former. 6; In a sewing machine for makin festoons, in combination, two needles a apted to reciprocate in the vertical direction, a driving shaft, means interposed between 'said driving shaft and said needles to impart a reciprocating'movement inthe vertical direction to the latter, acutting member turnably mounted about its axis, means adapted to shift the fabric com rising a transverse slide for shifting the fabric Ain the longitudinal direction thereof and a longitudinal slide for shifting the fabric in the transverse direction thereof, the cutting member being obliquely arranged and the point of lintersection between the axis of the cutting member and the vertical plane of the needles being in the plane movement of the fabric, a cam disc the circumference of which corre-v sponds to the shape ofthe festoon to be made, an operative connection between said longitudinal slide and said cutting member E and said cama disc which connectionin. cludes a driving disc, a two armed lever cooperating with said cam disc and said drivi'ng disc and transmission means interposed between the driving disc and the longituf dinal slide, a slotted member, a sliding block in said slot, a connection between one end of said double armed lever and said sliding block, an axle an eccentric cooperatin with saidislotted member, mounted on sai axle, i a crank 'on said axle an operative, connection: between said crank and said transverse slide. to cause the variable movements ofthe latter, and means interposed between said cam disc: and said driving shaft to impart a. stepsby-step movement to the former.

7.. In a sewing machine for making festoons, in combination, two needles adapted to reciprocatev in the vertical direction, a driving shaft, means interposed between said driving shaft and said needles to impart a reciprocating movement. in the vertical direction to the latter, a cutting member turn- .ably mounted about its axis, means adapted 'slide for shifting the fabric in the transverse direction thereof, the cutting member 4being obliquely varranged and the point of 1 intersection between the axis of the cutting member and thevertical plane of the needles being in the plane of movement of the fabric, a cam disc the circumference of which corresponds to the shape of the festoon to be made, an operative connection between said longitudinal slide and said cutting member and said cam disc which connection includes a driving disc, a two armed lever cooperating with said cam disc and said driving disc and transmission means interposed between the driving disc and the longitudinal slide, an arc-shaped slide adapted to reciprocate in said driving disc, means interposed between said arc-shaped slide and said longitudinal slide for operating'the latter, an eccentric on said driving shaft, a connection between said eccentric and said 4arc-shaped slide for reciprocating the latter, and means interposed between said cam disc and said driving shaft to imparta lstep-by-step movement to the former.

ably mounted about its axis, means adapted to shift the fabric com rising a transverse slide for shifting` the abrio in the longitudinal direction thereof and a longitudinalI slide vfor shifting the fabric in the trans' verse direction thereof, the cutting member being obliquely arranged and theipoint of intersection between the axis of the cutting member and the vertical plane of the needles being 'in the plane of movement of the fabric, a 'cam disc the circumference of which corresponds to the shape of the festoon to be made, an operative connectionv between said longitudinal slide and said cutting 4member and said cam disc which connection includes a drivingl disc, a two armed lever cooperating with said cam disc 4 and said driving disc and transmission fabric comprisin means interposed4 between the driving disc andthe longitudinal slide, a slotted member,

` a sliding block in said slot, a swingably mounted lever, a connection between the free end of said lever and the sliding block,- a sleeve displaceable along said lever and linked to the lower end of said double armed lever, an axle, an eccentric cooperatiner with said slotted member mounted on said axle, a crank on said axle, an operative connection between said crank and said transverse slide to cause the variable movements of the latter, and means` interposed between said cam disc and said driving shaft to impart a step-by-step-movement to the former.

9. In a sewing machine for. making festoons, in combination, two needles, a driving shaft, means interposed between said driving shaft and said needles to impart to the latter a reciprocating movement in the vertical direction, an obliquely positioned cutting device, means adapted to shift the shiftingthe fabric in the longitudinal direction and a longitudinal slide for shifting the fabric in the transverse direction thereof, a cam disc the circumference of which corresponds to the shape. of the festoon to be made, an axle on which said cam disc is exchangeably mounted, a nut for holding l said. cam disc in position, an operative Vconnection between said longitudinal slide and said cutting'device and said cam discgmd means interposed between said cam disc and.

said driving shaft to imparta step-by-step movement to the' former.

10. In a sewing machine for making festoons, in combination, two needles, a driva transverse 'slide for cutting device, means adapted to shift the l fabric comprising a transverse slide for shifting the fabric in the longitudinall direction -and a longitudinal Vslide for shifting the fabric in the transverse direction thereof, a cam disc the circumference of which corresponds tothe shape of the festoon to be'made, an operative connection between said longitudinal .slide and said cutting device and said cam disc, a ratchet wheel connected to said cam disc, pawls cooperating with said ratchet wheel, a member having aslot and cooperating with said pawls, a sliding block in said slot and adapted to be adjusted by hand, and means interposed between tlie driving shaft Vand said sliding block controlling the movement of the latter and imparting thereby a step-by-step movement to said 'cam disc.

l1. In a sewing machine for making festoons, in combination, two needles, a driving shaft, means interposed between said driving shaft and said needles to impart to the latter a reciprocating movement in the vertical direction, an obliquely positioned cutting device,A means adapted to shift the fabric comprising a transverse slide for shifting the fabric in the longitudinal direction and alongitudinal slide for shifting the fabric in the transverse direction thereof, a cam disc the circumference of which corresponds to the shape ofthe festoon to be made, an operative connection between said longitudinal slide and said cutting device and said cam: disc, which connection includes a driving disc, a twoarmed lever cooperating with said cam disc and said driving disc and transmission means interposed between the' drivingdisc and the longitudinal slide', a hand lever'cooperating with said. double armed lever and adapted to interrupt the operative engagement between the latter and thecam disc.

12. In a sewing machine for making f estoons, in combination, two needles, a driving shaft, means interposed between said driving shaft.' and said needles to impart to the latter a reciprocating movement 1n the vertical direction, an obliquely positionedcutting device, consisting of an upper end and a lower knife turnably about t eir axis -and endwise displaceable, the upper end of the lower knife having along slot formed by two resilient pron Aand the upper'knife entering eaid slot or cooperating'wmh the lower' knife in a scissors like manner during the cutting action and the lower knife being` turned by the turning motion of the upper knife, means adapted to the f abric comprising, a, transverse slide for shifting the fabric in the longitudinal direction Sil `to impart a step-b -step movement Y toons, in combination, two needles, a driving shaft, means interposed betweenv said p driving shaft and said needles to impart `to the latter a reciprocating movementlin the` v vertical direction, anbbliquely positioned endwise displaceable,

fered, means adapted to shift the comprising a transverse slide cutting device consisting of anupper knife and arlower knife turnably about their axis and endwise displaceable, the up er end of the lower knife having a long s ot formed by two resilient prongs and the upper knife entering said slot for cooperating with .the lower knife in a scissorslike manner during the cutting action and the lower knife being turned by the turning motion' of the upper knife, the upper knife being provided t with a first recess for the needle to pass through and with a second recess one edge,r part of which is shaped as a cutting edge, and into which the fabric enters, and the` lower end -of the upper knife being chamfabric wfor shifting the fabric in the lon itudinal direction and a longitudinal slide ffor shifting the fabric in the transverse direction thereof, a cam disc the circumference of which corresponds to the shape of the festoon to be made, nan operative connection between said llongitudinalslide and said cutting device and said cam disc, vand means interpesed-` between rsaid cam--=-discv and said-f? driving shaft to impart a step-by-step movement to theformer.

14. Ina slewingmachine for making 'festoons, in combination, two needles, a driving shaft, means interposed between vertical direction, :and obliquely positioned cutting device consistin of an upper and a lower yknife turnable a out'their axis and the upper end of the lower knife having a long slot formed by two resilient prongs and the upper knife entering the said slot for cooperating with the l lower knife in a scissors like manner,during the cutting action and the lower knife being turned by the turning motion of the upper knife, the bottom of said slot being inclined and one of the prongs being shorter than the other, and the prongs being pressed `against'each other for exerting a pressure on the upper knife, means adapted to shift the fabric comprising a transverse slide for tionv and longitudinal slide for shifting the fabric in the transverse direction thereof,

a cam disc the circumference of which corresponds to the shape of the festoon to be made, an operative connection between said longitudinal slide andnsaid cuttingv device and said cam disc, and means interposed between said cam disc and said driving shaft to impart a step-by-step movement to the former.

15. In a 'sewing'machine formaking festoons, in combination, two needles, a driving shaft, means interposed between said driving shaft and' said needles, -to impart to the latter a reciprocating movement in the vertical direction, an obliquely positioned cutting device consisting of an upper knife and a lower knife turnable about their axis and endwise displaceable, m ans to impart a quick movement-.in the do nward direction to the lower knife when the` needles have entered the fabric, means adapted to shift the fabric comprising a transverse slide for shifting the fabric in thel longitudinal direction and a longitudinal slide for shifting thefabric in the transverse direction thereof, a cam disc, the circumference of which corres onds to the shape of the festoon to be madb, an operative connection between said longitudinal slide,and said cutting device and said cam disc, and means interposed between said cam disc and said driving shaft to impart a stepb v-step movement to the former.

16. In a sewing machine for making festoons, in combination, two needles, 'a driving shaft, means interposed between saiddriving` shaftnnd said needles to impart to the latter a reciprocating movement 1n the vertical direction; anl obliquely positioned cutting device,` a longitudinal slide, a lever adapted to press on vthe fabric and swingably mounted on said longitudinal slide,

the 'transverse direction thereof, a cam disc theI circumference of which corresponds tov the shape of thefestoon to be made, anoperative connection between said longitudinal slide and said cutting device and said cam disc, and-means interposed between said cam disc and said driving shaft'to impart a stepby-step movement to the former. Y

17. In a sewing machine for makin toons, shaft. means interposed between fsaid driving shaft and said needles to impart to the fesin combination, two needles., a driving latter a reciprocating movement in the vertical direction, an obliquely positioned cut-- ting device, means adapted to shift the fabric comprising a transverse slide for shifting the fabric in the longitudinal direction disc and ,said driving shaft to impart a step* -and a longitudinal slide for shifting the fabric in the transverse direction thereof, a

cam disc the circumference of which corresponds to the lshape of the festoon to be made, and a thi'ead guide swingably arranged in the plane of the needles and provided with a hook shaped end to grip the threads for moving them slightly sideways.

'fabric in the longitudinal direction and a longitudinal slide for shifting the fabric .in the transverse direction thereof, a cam disc the circumference of which corresponds to the shape of the festoon to be made, an oper ative connection between said longitudinal slide and said cutting device and lsaid cam disc, means interposed between said cam by-step movement to the former, a thread guide swingably arranged in the plane of the needles and provided with -a hook shaped end to grip the threads for moving them slightly sideways, a roller mounted on Vsaid needle bar, and a spring cooperating with said roller and holding the latter in engagement with saidthread guide. l

19. In a sewing machine for making festoons, in combination, two needles, a needle bar carrying said needles, a driving shaft,

means interposed between said driving shaft and said needle bar to impart to the latter a reciprocating movement in the vertical direction, an obliquely arranged cutting device, meansadapted to shift the fabric comprising a transverse slide for shifting the fabric 'in the longitudinal direction and a longitudinal slide for shifting the fabric in the transverse direction thereof, a cam disc,`

the circumference of which corresponds to the shape of the festoon to bemade, an operative connection between said longitudinal slide and said cutting device and said cam disc, means interposed between said cam disc and said driving shaft to imparta stepbystep movement tothe former, a thread guideturnable in the plane of theneedles together with the needle bar provided' with a hook shapedl end to grip the threads for n moving them slightly sideways, aroller mounted on said needle bar, and a` spring cooperating with said roller and holding the latter in engagement with said thread guide.

20. In a sewing machine for making festoons, in combination, two needles, a driving shaft, means interposed between said driving shaft and said needles to impart to the latter a reciprocating movementin the vertical direction, an `obliquely positioned cutting device, means adapted to, shift the fabric comprising a transverse slide for shifting the fabric in the longitudinal direction and a longitudinal slide for shifting the fabric in the transverse direction thereof, a. cam disc the circumference of which corres ponds to the shape of the festoon to be made, an operative connection between said longi tudinal slide and said cutting device and said cam disc, means interposed between said cam disc and said driving shaft to impart a Astep-by-step movement to the former, and athread tensioning' device comprising at least one pair of clamping discs and guide members laterally of said clampin discs.

21. Infa sewing machine for ma ing festoons, in combination, two needles, a driving shaft, means interposed between said driving shaft and said needle to impart to the' latter a reciprocating mo ment in the vertical direction, an oblique y positioned cut ting device, means adapted to shift the fabric comprising a transverse slide for shifting the fabric in the longitudinal direction and `a longitudinal slide for shifting the fabric in the transverse direction thereof, a cam disc the circumference of which corresponds to the shape of thefestoon to'be made, an

operative connection between said longitu` dinal slide and said cutting device and said cam disc, means interposed between said cam disc and said driving shaft to impart a step-by-step movement to the former, and a thread tensioning device comprising at least one pair of clampin discs and a guide member arrangedlateral y of said ,clamping discs and fixed to a plate serving for mounting the lower of said clamping discs and a' further guide member fixed to said plate and arranged on the other side of said clamping disc on which sai-d lirst guide member is arranged.

' 2 2. In a sewing machine for making festoons, in combination, two needles, a driving shaft, means interposed between said driving shaft and said needles to impart to the later a reciprocatin movement in the ver-` tical direction, an o 'liquely positioned cutting device, meansl adapted to shift the fabric comprising a transverse slide for shifting the fabric in the longitudinal' direction and a-longitudinal. slide for shifting the fabricy in the transverse direction thereof, a cam discthe circumference of which 'correspondslto the shape of the festoon to be made, an operative connection between said longitudinal slide and said cutting device and said cam disc, means interposed between said camv disc and said driving shaft to impart a step-by-step movementv to the former, an annular gripper, a. cover above saidV gripper,` ins to` secure said cover against being isplaced,va resilient stirruji` pressing against said cover, and a screw threaded device for holding said stirrup in position. s

23. In a sewing machine for making festoons,'in combination, two needles, a driving shaft, means interposed between said driving shaft and said needles to impart tothe latter a reciprocating movement in the vertical direction, an obliquely positioned cutting device, means adapted to shift the fabric comprising a transverse slide for shifting the fabric in the longitudinal direction and a longitudinal slide for shifting the fabric in the transverse direction thereof, a. cam disc the circumference of which corre sponds to the shape of the festoon -to be made, an operative connection between said longitudinal slideV and said cutting device and said cam disc, means interposed between said cam disc and said driving shaft to impart a step-by-step movement to the former, an annular gripper, a cover above said gripper,l pins to secure said cover against being displaced, a resilient stirrup having two parallel arms pressing against said cover, and ending in a handle arranged at right angles to the arms, and a screw for holding said stirrup in position.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature.

KARL MISCHKE.