US1571734A - Method of making shoes - Google Patents

Description

Feb. 2 1926.

s sw A. F. PYM

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Original Filed Jan. 7, 1921 Patented Feb. 2l, 1926:u

unirse stares .smear OFFICE.

ARTHUR F. PYlVI, OF MARBLEHEAD, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MAGHNERY CORPORATLION, OF PETERSON, lltlll JERSEY, fr

N EW JERSEY.

CORPORATON OF METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

Original application filed January 7, 1921, Serial No. 435,636. Divided and this application filed March 2l, 1924. Serial No. 700,843. i

To all lwhom t may concern.'

Be it known that l, ARTHUR F. Prir, a citizen ot the United States, residing at lilarblehead, iii the county of Essex and Commonwealth oli' Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in Methods oi' Making Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompany ing drawings, is a speciiication, like reference characters on the drawings indicsnsing` like parts in the several ligures.

rlhis invention relates to the manufacture of shoes and mor-e particularly to the shaping of the upper materials over their lasts, the present application being a division oi' a prior application Serial No. 435,636, tiled on January 7, 1921.

The toes of shoes are commonly lasted iii what are known as bed lasting machines by the use oi wipers shaped ,in accordance with the requirements ci' the different styles and sizes of shoes, this type of machine having means tor adjusting the wipers in various ways, including means tor varying relatively the pressures applied to the upper materials by the edges of the wipers at the end and the sides oi4I the toe. It is the practice, in making the wipers, to determine the curvature of their wiping edges by the use ot a pattern having substantially the shape oit the insole, so that the wipers are designed substantially to lit the toe end ot' the insole.`

llVhile this curvature is doubtless the best for practical purposes, having regard to the conditions met with at different stages in the toe lasting operation, it will be evident that in view ot the added thickness of the upper materials, wipers shaped in this manner will not exactly fit the toe of the shoe in upwiping the upper over vthe last and the edge of the insole, nor on welt shoe work will they exactly conform to the diderent curvature presented by the margin ot the upper materials lying against the rib ot the insole at the end of the ovsrwiping opera tion. Moreover. turther deviations from accuracv in the conformity ot the edges `ot the wipers to the curvature of the toe may result-from the manner lin which the wipers are adjusted by the'operator. *Thisv may be due not only to lack of care on the partei' an operator, but also to the ifact that since thegathers or wrinkles in theuii'iai'gjin or the upper materials arelmore pronounced about the end of the toe than at the sides oi. the toe, operators have a tendency to adjust the wipers to apply relatively greater pressure at the end of the toe, so that frequently the pressures applied at the sides are not fully adequate to wipe the upper tightly over the last and the edge ofthe insole and to press it closely into the angle between the feather and the ribot the insole. When a' shoe has been lasted in this manner, the upper is likely not to be held tightlyin the angle at the base of the insole rib at the sides of the toe bythe welt-attaching stitches, and as a result in the sole leveling machine the upper may be pressed outwardly in these locations. with substantial detrimentto the shape of the finished shoe.

The present invention provides an improvement in methods of making slices whereby the above-mentioned undesirable consequences are eliminated. VFor the pur poses in View, the invention provides for applying to the toe of the upper, after it has been lasted in the usual manner, additional treatment to work it or wipe it heightwise of the last and to wipe or mold it inwardly over the insole. While Vthe invention is not limited to treatment oie the upper at the sides of the toe, it is herein il-' lustrated by reference to treat-nient applied in these locations only, since it is at the sides of the toe that the lasting is vmost likely to be deicient, as hereinabove` explained. It is considered that the wiping of the upper heightwise of the toe and the wiping or molding` of. it inwardly over the insole may be most effectively accomplished in thcA presence of heat which will shrink the upper enough to take up anyslack produced by the supplemental wiping operation and thus make it unnecessary to disturb the means whereby the upper is Vfastened in lasted position and will also assist in setting74 the upper in its acquired shape.

The novel method will now be more particu-larly explained by reference to the accompanying drawings and thereafter point ed out in the claims.

In the drawings, Y

Fig.l l isa plan view of wiping means adapted for use in practicing themethod of this invention, this means, being more fully illustrated and described in its relation to other parts of an organized machine in my prior application of which this application is a division;

. F ig. 2 illustrates the upwiping action at thesides of the toe of a lasten welt shoe;

F ig. S illustrates the later step of wiping and molding the upper into the `angle between the feather and the rib of the insole and of applying molding pressure at the sides ofthe last, and u Fig. 4l is a perspective view to illustrate more fully the character of the operation shown in Fig.

The method is herein illustrated as carried out by the aid of wiper members 2 which are pivoted at 4L upon wiper holders 6. so that they may turn about axes extending heightwise ofthe shoe to adapt their position to the lengthwise contour of the shoe. These wiper members have inwardly projecting portions adapted to be utilized first to engage and upwipe the upper at the sides of the toe, as illustrated in Fig. 2,` and at a later stage to wipe the upper inwardly over the feather of the insole and apply molding pressure in the angle between thefeather and the rib, as illustrated in Fig. 8. yThe members 2 are also provided with shoe engaging faces 8 which apply molding pressure to the sides of the shoe exteriorly of the shoe bottom when these members are in the positions Aillustrated in Fig. 3, while at the same time limiting the extent of inward movement of the members. During their operations on theshoe the wiper members 2 are heated to the required degree by electrical heating units l() which are mounted therein.

The means whereby the wiper members 2 are operated and controlled, and the means whereby relative movements `between these members and thev shoe in Ithe direction of the height of the shoe are effected, need not be described vhereinfsince they Vare fullyl rdescribed -in the copending application. Likewise y:the step of llasting the toe is not herein illustrated in detail, since it may =be accomplished in the same manner as common :heretofore and as well understood in rthe art. It :will be Vunderstood that a shoe `having its toe end lasted and with the upper held in lasted position, for example by a binder wire, as shown, .is so presented that the wiper members 2 when they are closed inwardly will engage the sides of the toe below the edge of :the shoe bottom, substantially `as illustrated in -Fig. '2, and while the wiper members arethuslpressing yieldingly against the sides of the toe at and near the location of the tip`seam, relative movement of the shoe and the wiper members is effected to cause said members to wipe the upper toward "the edge {'o'fth'e insole' and -thftis 'further `to tightenit over the lastin these locations. Thereafter the wiper members are closed inwardly over the .feather of the insole toward and it may be against the toe binder wire a and its fastening tacks t, as illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4, thus wiping the upper inwardly and further tightening Vit as well as defining a better angle between the feather `and the rib of the insole. The wiper members are then in position to apply molding pressure to the upper 'both on the sides of the toe at and below the edge of the insole and in the angle between the feather and the rib, 'andthey will be held in these positions as long as is desirable to cause the upper to set in its newly vacquired shape.

The heating of the wiper members 2 by the heating units l0 contributes further to the purposes in view, since the heat has a shrinking effect `upon the leather which assists in taking up any slack produced by the supplemental wiping operation, so that it is unnecessary to disturb the upper fastening means or to apply additional fastenings after the upper has been subjected to the treatment of the members 2. It will also b'e understood that the application ofy I heat likewise assists in molding the upper about the edge and over the feather of the insole.

Treatment in accordance with the method of this invention produces a toe which is tightly lasted atl thesides as well as about the end. of the last, and in which the angle in the margin of the upper between the feather and the rib of the insole is sharply defined at the sides of the toe as well as in other locations, thus permitting -the welt and the upper to be secured ytightly and closely at the vbase of the insole rib in the inseam sewing operation.

WVhile the invention is herein illustrated by lreference to l'welt "shoe work, for which it lhas very important advantages, it will be understood "that it is not limited to that particular kind'of work :but may be used to advantage in the manufacture of other kind-s of shoes. u

Having explained the nature of the invention and set forth fully how it may be practiced, what I claim as new and desire to secureby Letters Patent yof the UnitedStates is 1. That improvement in methods `of inaking shoes which consists in lasting the toe of a shoe including the fastening of the upper in lthe angle between the feather and the rib of the insole. and thereafter 'working the upper over the toe of the-:last toward the Iedgerof the insole and then inwardly into the angle between the feather and the rib-of ythe insole to tighten the upper and conform it more Closely to the last and to the contour of the insole.

2. -That improvement in methods of inaking shoes which consists in lasting the toe of a. shoe including the fastening of the upper in the angle between the feather and the rib of the insole, and thereafter' while the upper is held in lasted position by its fastening means wiping it heightwise of the last at the opposite sides of the toe and molding it in the angle between the feather and the rib of the insole to tighten it and to form a better angle to receive the upper securing stitches.

3. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lasting the toe of a shoe including the fastening of the upper in lasted position, and thereafter while the upper is held in lasted position by its fastening means applying to the lasted toe portion of the upper wiping pressures directed heightwise of the last and inwardly over the bottom of the last to work the upper more closeljT and tightly into conformity to the contour of the last.

4. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lasting the toe of ashoe including the fastening of the upper in lasted position, and after the upper has been fastened in lasted position wiping` it heightwise of the last at the opposite sides of the toe and molding it in the angle between the feather and the rib of the insole while subjecting it to the action of .heat to tighten it over the last and to prepare it for the inseam sewing operation.

5. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lasting the toe of a shoe including the fastening of the upper in lasted position over the feather and against the rib of the insole, and thereafter applying, at the opposite sides of the toe only, wipingand molding pressures to tighten the upper over the last and to define a better angle between the feather and the rib ofthe insole. i

6. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in 'applying to the lasted toe portion of a shoe, while the upper is fastened in lasted position, both upwiping and overwiping pressures, and at the same time subjecting the upper to the action of heat, to tighten the upper over the last and to shape it in better conformita7 to the contour of the last and of the insole.

7. That improvement in methods of mais ing shoes which consists in applying to the sides of the lasted toe portion of a shoe, after the upper has been fastened in lasted position in the angle between the feather and the rib of the insole, upwiping pressure toward the edge of the insole, and thereafter applying molding pressure both at the sides of the toe exteriorly of the shoe bottom and in the angle between the feather and the rib of the insole while subjecting the upper to the action of heat.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

ARTHUR F. PYM.

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