US1504114A

US1504114A - Yoke construction for shirts

Info

Publication number: US1504114A
Application number: US607128A
Authority: US
Inventors: Clarence M Flora
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1922-12-15
Filing date: 1922-12-15
Publication date: 1924-08-05
Anticipated expiration: 1941-08-05

Description

' C. M. FLORA You: CONSTRUCTION FR SHIRTS 15 1922 4 lSl'ieets-Sheet-l atto: nu:

Aug. 5. 1924. 1,504,114

C. M. FLORA YOKE CONSTRUCTION FOR SHIRTS Filed Dec. 15 1922 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 Aug. 5 1924.

c. M. FLORA YOKE CONSTRUCTION FOR SHIRTS Filed Dec. l5 z 1922 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 Aug. 5'. 1924.

C. M. FLCRA YOKE CONSTRUCTION FOR ySHIRTS Filed Dec. l5 1922 4 Sheets-Sheet. 4

Patented Aug, 5, 1924 cremation ivi.` FLORA, or' OKLAHOMA CITY, OKLAHOMA YOKE CONSTRUCTION FOR SHIRTS.

Application le. December i5, 1,922. Serial No. 607,128.

To all whom t may concern;

Be it known that CLARENCE M. FLORA, a citizen of the United States of America, residing at Oklahoma City,v in the county of Oklahoma and State of Oklahoma, has invented new and useful Improvements in Yoke ConstructionsV for Shirts, of which the following is a specification.

The object of the invention is to provide a neck yoke. for garments particularly of the dress, negligee or outer shirt type for mens wear7 whereby the neck and shoulder portions thereof are supported and so conformed to the wearer as to afford a snug lit and suspend the weight ofthe garment from the shoulders rather than from the neck or neck band with the result that a more smooth and neat hanging or draping of the garment may be secured, whereby the pressure upon the neck and throat of the wearer may be relieved, whereby a tendency to draw the neck band downward upon the neck of the wearer is avoided, and whereby the Siae of the arm hole may be reduced to insure a more snug underarm fit, and at the same time. to provide a substantial reinforcement for the back, side and front neck portions of .the garment together with the Vedges of the front opening of the shirt; and with these objects in view the invention consists in a construction and combination of parts 0f which a preferred embodiment is shown in the accompanying drawings, wherein:

Figure 1 isa view of a neck yoke embody ing theinvent-ion applied in the operative position to a garment of the shirt type wherein the opening is at the front, the

shirt being open to disclose the yoke which is secured to the inner surface of the fabric forming the body of the garment,

Figure 2 is a plan view of the garment, or a view looking downward upon the shoul der portions thereof with the front and back portions spread outward and with the outline of the neck yoke indicated thereon in dotted lines which are distinguishable from those of the seam lines of the body portion of the garment.

Figure 3 is a plan view of the blank form ing thev neck yoke and indicating the weave lines.

Figure 4 is a view of the blank vwith the free ends of the yoke and the attachedbutton and buttonhole reinforcing strips carried thereby brought into operative relation as when the garment to which the yoke is applied is closed and buttoned or otherwise fastened.

rllhe yoke is of neck encircling form constructed from a flat blank preferably of woven material and adapted to be secured to the inner surface of the garment as indicated in Figure 1 wherein the yoke is represented at 10 and the material of the garment at 11, with the free ends of the yoke coinciding with the edges 12 of the opening in the front of the garment, and with the button and buttonhole reinforcing strips 13 carried by and extended in alignment with the free end edges of the yoke and secured to in reinforcing relation with the edges of the opening at the front of the garment.

The device comprises essentially a transverse body member 14 which in this instance is the back member and extends across the back of the garment in rear of the neck opening thereof and side members 15 of curved contour which together with the main transverse member define a neck Opening 16, said main and side members merging into and being extended laterally to form shoul-l der members 17 which extend to the arm holes 18 of the garment and have their terminal edges caught in the armhole seams 19 at the upper sides of the armholes so that said shoulder members extend over and bear upon the shoulders of the wearer.

The side members 15 terminate short of the center line of the yoke to form edges 20 which are disposed (see Figure 3) on outwardly divergent lines., and as'the side members of the yoke are of a considerable width measured from the neckv opening to the outer peripheries thereof, amounting for example to three or four inches more or less, it is Obvious that in order to draw the terminal edges 2O of said side members into meet-ing or overlapping relation or into parallelism as by the closing of the opening at the front of the garment to which the device is attached it is necessary to contract the outer periphery of the yoke to a greater extent than the inner periphery thereof which constitutes the neck opening, and therefore to cause a downward movement relatively of the shoulder members throughout their lengths and particularly at their outer ends so as to effect a downwardly bearing action of the shoulder members upon the shoulders of the wearer of the garment to thereby support the garment from the shoulder points rather than from the neck and at the same time cause the intermediate portions of the shoulder members to conform to any irregularity or dipping of kthe shoulders of the wearer and consequently effecting a snug bearing of the garment upon the shoulders. The button and buttonhole reinforcing strips 13 are extended on outwardly divergent lines corresponding with and forming continuations of the end edges of the side meinbers lof the yoke as plainly indicated in- Figure 3 and therefore being stitched toy the edges of the opening at the front of the garment to which the yoke is applied said reinforcing strips 13 serve to reinforce said opening edges and maintain a proper rela-v tion thereof when the yoke has been tensioned at its outer periphery by the drawing together of the outwardly divergent'end edges of the yoke due to theclosing of the opening at the front of the garment.

From a practical standpoint it is important, however, that the yoke shall be formed with the material constituting the same on abias and in the construction illustrated the bias line, bisecting the angle formed by the weave lines of the fabric forming the yoke, and indicated by the dotted line a in Figure 3 is on a transverse diainetral line of the neck opening. The advantage in arranging the fabric forming the yoke in bias rela-V tion-with the latter isthat it affords a yielding quality of the yoke'on the lines of strain -to which the yoke is subjected in the closfitting of the neck opening of the yoke or garment of the neck of the wearer, and when the yoke is constructed as above described with the free end edges of the side members thereof and the reinforcing strips v13 disposed on outwardly divergent lines, radiating from the approximate center of the neck opening, the bias arrangement of the weave is maintained throughout the lengt-hs of said reinforcing strips as well as throughV the back, yshoulder and side members of the yoke proper'. f

The outer peripheral edges of the side members of the yoke, between the armhole stitches and the' stitches which secure the ends of said members to the edges of the opening at the front ofthe garment are of vthe neck of the garment and conforming to the shoulders thereof, the body portion Y having a neck opening and front extensions to overlap at the front of the neck, said front extensions merging into reinforcing strips to be secured to the opposite portions of the opening at the front'offthe garment,

thereby reinforcing the butt-on and buttonholes.

2. rlhe combination with a garment provided with an opening at the front, of a reinforcing lining yoke for the neck and shoulder portions of the garment, said lining yoke comprising a body portion secured to and extending across the back of the neck of the garment and secured to and (':onformingV to the shoulders of the garment, said body portion having a neck opening Vand front eX-. tensions merging into reinforcing strips se-Q,

cured to the opposite portions of the opening at the front of the garment,- said front extensions with the corresponding portions of the opening in the garment adapted to overlap, whereby the strips may reinforce the button and buttonhole portions of the opening at the front of the garment, said lining yoke being cut on the bias from a blank of material, whereby any strain downward upon the reinforcing strips will be at right angles to a bias line diametral of the neck portion of the yoke bisecting t-he angle formed by the weave lines ofthe fabric..

In testimony whereof he aifiXes his signature.

CLARENCE M. FLORA,