US1469222A - Method of lasting shoes - Google Patents

Description

oca. 2, 19237., 1,469,222

F. N. LA CHAPELLE METHOD-0F LASTING sHoEs Patented @et 2, i923.

narran stares aries.

retain e FRED N. LA OHArsLLn, or BEVERLY, iriissaoirusnm'rs, iissiGNon To UNi'inn siion, Y

i/iaoniiriiiirv CORPORATION, or iArnnsoN, NEW Jansen-CORPORATION or` NEW JERSEY.

ianriion or LasTiNG siions.l

Application filed July 14, 1919. Serial No. 310,722.

rl'his invention relates to methods of lasting boots and shoes and particularly to methods in which successive portions of the uppers are progressively lasted. Y I

` It has been proposed to last shoes by means of a string laced back and forth `from Yside to side ot1 the upper and passing.VV freely through the margin of the. upper, the :upper being drawn in by pulling on the string which placed all lasted portions oi' the upper under substantially the samelasting tension. This method takes no account of the Y fact that different parts oi. a shoe upper consists inlastimg` a'portionk ot'upper atV i lengthwise ot' the shoe may and usually do require to be. diiilerently tensioned, and-an object orn this inventionA is to provide a method by which portions'of a shoe upper on opposite. sides oi2 the shoe may not only be held under substantially equal tension but by which successive portions of the upper lengthwise of the shoe may be put under any desired tension and iiXedly fastened.

A `further object of the invention is to provide amethod of lasting which will en- .I able a cheaper and weaker iiinersole tobe successfully employed.

In one aspectthe .invention providesa method by 'which portions of anupper ony l Y which'consists in lasting and securing ytixedopposite sides oi" a shoe may' be lasted in turn and'each secured 'to an innersole, the lasting of opposed portions oi upper in Ythis manner being'repeated wise of the shoe. l f

AAs herein exemplified, the present method Vone' side of the shoe,` tying 'oi-.fastening a thread to thatvportion of the upper, lasting a portion of upper at the opposite side oi the shoe, passing'thethread underftension to that Yside jot the shoe and-securing the tensioned vportion of the upper onfthat side to the lthread by a locked stitchforv-knot formed in thel tensioned thread', then lasting a portion of upper at the first sideV of the vtening employed;

progressively lengthn shoe in advance of the portion iirstv lasted, passing the thread under tension back to that side of the shoe and iixedly fastening it to the upper byl a similar stitchformed in the thread, these operations beingrepeated progressively lengthwise ofthe shoe.

In another aspect the method consists in updrawing and overdrawing a portion -of upper at one side ofthe shoe,` forming a thread `fastening or locked4 stitch through the innersole and upper to hold the lasted portion of the upper lasted in fixed position, .then updrawing and overdrawing avportion of1 thel upper atfthe opposite side oi the shoe,

Vand fastening the'V lasted portion iXedly to the innersole by a similar thread-fastening,

the operations of lasting and securing the upper being carried on alternately on the opposite sides ofthe shoe and progressively lengthwise of the shoe. Preferably a single thread is employed and between the thread 'fastening Operations a portion of, thread is carried under tension across the shoe bottom, each portionbeing fixedlyrfastened to the innersole and upper at each end. The transverse runs of the' thread tend, therefore, to strengthen the. innersole and to as# sist in holding the upper inlasted position. In the-'drawingf-Q l Fig. lrepresents the bottom of a welt shoe lasted in accordance-with the method of the present invention; Y y, Fig. 2 isa perspective view oi'- a McKay shoe lasted in accordance with the present invention;v I' i Fig. 3 is perspectivejdetail, partly/in section,*illustratingl the' form of; thread JfasvFig.'i-'represents al step inthel method l'v'by a stitch the y upper at one lside ot'the shoe and Vformed on the opposite-side of the shoe."`

In carrying out the g'orese'nt'v method 'an :innersole and upper areassembled on a last.'

as usual and,1if 4desi-red,the .toe and heel of 'the shoemay be lastedin any usualmany ner. As shown the heel-seat of the shoe`v has been lasted by turni-ng.inwardlygthegupper aboutrthe Vheel-seat andV securing it perinanently in place by ytacks-a. `The toe may-lbs lasted, for example, Ona vbed.machine'and secured by tacks iit isa McKay shoe e) aaa by bin-sing Wife d if' it is a." Weit shoe (Fig. l). lt is to be understood,

v however, that it is not necessary first to last i Fig. 4..

the ends of the shoe but' lthatthe Vpresent method 0i' lasting may precede the end lasting' if desired,.also the extent to Vwhich the side lasting is carried toward the shoe ends may vary in different classes of work.

Assuming, for the sake of illustration, that the, ends of the shoe have been lasted 'as shown in FigjQ, the side lasting is been-n, for example, at the point c. rrrlhe upperad- 'jacentto this point is seized'hy aQ and drawn upwardlyv and then preferably carried `over theY last bottom` as shown in A needle 6 'carrying a 'thread tliroughaii eye lin yits pointis then passed throiigh the upper and withdrawn, forming a loop 8,.the loop being held from withdrawing 'lroni the lneedle by a hook tliigjer .9. The 'iieedle and shoe are then moved relatively lengthi'vise"oil the shoe vand theV second movement of the needle forms a loop l() through Vwhich the first loop V8 is passed `'by the finger QY'andyintelr as shown in Fig. 3, to iorm afixedthread Vloop fasteningfor loop locked vstitehior the f lend .of the thread. The shoe and needle are at each end, vthis method constitutes a very ellective way of fastening an upper in lasted position and since eachdindividual 'portion of tthe upper is separately tensioned and hxedly 'secured to a corresponding portion onY the opposite side of the shoe each othese Y portions-willnaturally be under substantially ythe'same lasting; tension. Various'opposed lasted pertioiis'lengthwise ot' the shoe, however, Vare independently held with no Y possibility of slacking and Aiiiayhe under vthe vdesired different lastingu` tensions "such as are appropriate for different portions ot the lupper lengthwise of theshoe. his method,V

therefore, iis essentially distinct Yfrom prior methods in which the opposite sides otpan upper are laced together-by a cord which .passes through the upper first on Vone 'sideY of the shoeand 'then on the other side of the sh'oe without being ixedly securedftoV the upper at` the points of passage. '.The;

' method as sdescribed, frtlieiefoie, constitutes a very effective wayptV fastening in lasted position the uppersol'slioes of various kinds and vis, particularly applicable tothe manufacture o't'wtackless McKay .shoes or, as

shown;Y Qi McKay' shoes which are tackless as to the sides where Vtacks are objectionable. l desired, however, the upper 'locked therewith,

may be secured to the innersole at few points hy tacks /c to hold the insole better in place during the McKay sewingl operation.

iis'showii vin Fig. l, however, and las usually practiced, the present method is applied to weltj shoes the'innersoles of which are provided with sewing ribs. lli/hen thusY applied the Vfastening ot' the thread is made, after tensioning` a portion of the upper as described, through the upper and innersole rib It, the upper being thus iixedly attached to therib at that point, for example,l as at c in Fig. 1. A portion oit the upper at the opposite 'side of the shoe is then tensioned `and the shoel and needle moved relatively to place the thread under tension and to enable a stitch to be formed at the point fiXedly to secure the upper and innersole rib together at that side, the operations being. of course repeated alternately on opposite sides of the shoe until the toe portion already lasted is reached. rllhe transversel runs Y of thread extending under tension-across the innersole tend very `iiiatei'ially to` strengthen the shoe and hence in this methodV of Ylasting` a weaker and cheaperinneitsole may be used. The 'stitchl herein shown ,isY

kmade iniaccordance with the vmethod dise closed and claimed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,185,1O7Vgraiited May 3, .1916, oi my application and need not be further described herein. Thisiorni of stitch has been found effective for the purpose particu- Y larly when a waxed thread is used. It is to be understood, however, that other forms of stitch may he employed particularly stitches that are Seli locked77 to the material, that is, are locked by formations produced in a single thread.

Having thus described my invention', whatV I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters YPatent oit the United States is: y

l. That improvementpin methods of lasting shoes which 'consists in tensioning;Y a portion of upper-Jon one side oi'a shoe, s curing a thread to said portion lof the upper by a locked stitch at that side olf the shoe,

imi

then tensioningv a portion ol" upper on the 'Y opposite side roi the shoefand securiiigthat portion of the upper hyalocked stitch, and then repeating the operations steplby step lengthwise ofthe shoe. y i, r Y

2. That improvement Viii/methods of last'- ing-shoes whichconsists iii alternately lasting portions ot the upper Von oppoiste'sides ofthe Yshoe andnseparately fastening each lasted portion oie` the-upper under:tensionl by knotting -it innen-slipping relation tura 3. That improvement in methods of last'- ing' shoes which consists in alternatelylasting portions ofthe upper onopposite sidesV of the shoe andLseparately fasteningeach lasted portion of the upper under tensionV to the rib of an linnersole.

z the bottoni ot the shoe and fiXedly attaching it to the upper on the otherside of the shoe.

6. That improvement in methods of lasting shoes which consists in updrawing and overdrawing successive portions of an upper alternately on opposite sides of the shoe progressively lengthwise of the shoe, and securing a thread to the upper by a locked stitch iirst on one side of the shoe to secure a hold on the lasted portion and then carrying the thread under tension to the other side of the shoe and securing it by Va locked stitch to another lasted portion.

7. That improvement in methods of lasting shoes. which consists in updrawing and overdraiving successive portions of an upper alternately on opposite sides of the shoe progressively lengthwise of the shoe, securing the upper'by a stitch rst at one side ofthe shoe to secure a lasted portion of the upper, and then passing the thread under tension to the other side of the shoe and securing a lasted portion'o'f the upper at that side oi"- the shoe by a stitch in the same thread While maintaining the thread under tension.

S. rlhat improvement in methods of lasting shoes which consists in updravving and overdraiving successive portions of the up-v per alternately' upon opposite sides of the shoe progressively lengthwise of the shoe,

passing a continuous thread fromside to side ot the shoe, andl forming With the thread loop locked stitches tohold the upper alternately at the tivo sides of the shoe ast-he lasting progresses.

9. That improvement in methods of last- `ing shoes which consists in tensioning al portion of a shoe un )er at one sidevof the shoe i y a. passing a loop of thread through the upper,

holding the loop from retracting, .passingf another loop through the innersole rib and f upper adjacent to the tirst loop, inter-locking one loop with thel other loop, then lasting a portion of the upper atfthe other side of the shoe and securing it to the thread in the same manner that the -irst portion Was secured. Y Y

10. That improvement in methods of last ing shoes which consists in lasting and securing theV upper by thread loops entering and securing the upper by similarfl'oops at the opposite side ofthe shoe.L

11. Thatimprovementin methods of lasting shoes Whichconsistsin lasting Yandsecuring, a lportionof the upper' by a" looplocked stitchat one side of the shoe, passing theY thread under tension tothe other' side 'of the shoe, and thenl lastingfandsecuring by a loop-locked stitch in the lthread a portion of upper at thel opposite side of the shoe. s

12. Tha-t improvement in methods of lasting shoes which consists kinupdraiving and overdravving successive portions of an upper alternately on opposite sides of the shoe progressively lengthwise of thel shoe, and securing the upper by a self-locked stitch lirst at one side of the shoe to secure a lasted }A3ortion,vthen-carrying the thread to the other side of the shoe and securing another lasted portion in the thread.

13. That improvementin.methods of last- Y by anotherself-loclred stitch Y of the length of the shoe first on one side of y the shoe and then on the other side of the shoe, and fastening the lasted portions' to the innersolev by stitches formed in the thread rst at one side of the shoe and then at the other side of the shoe. t Y

15. That improvement in methods of lasting shoes Which consists in lasting and ser i the rib of thev innersole a'p'ortion of the up- 16. That improvement in methods of last'- ing shoes which consists 1n lasting and seper on one side of the shoe, and then lastf ing and securing a portion of the upper aty the opposite side of the shoe to the rib of the innersole. f Y 1,7. That improvement in methods of lasting shoes which consists in tensioning a porthrough the lnnersole ril) and upper,adjer Cent to the first loop, interlocking one loop with the other loop toseeure the upper, then lasting a portion o the upper et the .01:11.94q side of the shoe and securing it to the 'inheri- Sole rib in the same manner that the first portion was `secured l.while maintaining the thread between `the secured Aportions under tension.

ingshoes whichoonssts in passing a oozi-V 18. That. improvement metllOdS 0f 13S@ timioiis thiead frein Side tO-side Y.0f the "Shoe,

lasting portions v0f the upper ,at the tvv@V sigles ofthe shoe alternately progressively lengthwise of the shoe, and progressively `ind alternately fastening thlajsted portions fxedly to the innersole by sttehee' Vformeel the thread: t

In testimony whereof I have signed my .nameto this specification. i

FRED N. LA CHAPELLE.

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