US1106780A - Manufacture of shoes. - Google Patents

Description

J. GAVANGH.

MANUFACTURE 0F SHOES.

APPLlcATIoN FILED AUG.31.1910.

Patented Aug. 11, 1914.

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UNITED T OFFICE.

J'AMES CAVANAGH, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES.

Patented Aug. 11, 1914i. Application filed August 31, 1910. Serial No. 579,814.

To all whom tmay concern: is the fact that the securing of the upper Be it known that I, JAMEs CAVANAGH, a along the sides and around the toe of the citizen of the United States, residing at s hoe constitutes a single continuous opera- Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State tion. It can be done uninterruptedly with of Massachusetts, have invented certain Ima single tool or setV of tools and a single fasproveniente in the Manufacture of Shoes, of toning material thus simplifying and exwhich the following description, in connecpediting the operation, By this method no tion with the accompanying drawings, is a obstruction is applied to the shoe which will speciiication, like reference characters on delay the welting operation or cause breakthe drawings indicating like parts in the age of sewing needles. There are no lasting Several figures f tacks or wires to remove from the slice This invention relates to theinanufacture preparatory to or after the welting operaof boots and shoes and particularly to lasttion and no liability that a tack or a portion ing shoes. It was t-he practice formerly iu of a tack stem will be left in the shoe to making welt shoes to secure the upper 1n overdull the inseam trimmer or to work into 70 worked position by tacks driven through it the wearers foot. A very important adinto the innersole about the sides and the vantage over sewing all around the shoe as toe end of the shoe. It was found necessary heretoforev suggested is that the upper and to drive the tacks close together about the the lip are not mutilated and weakened toe to hold that portion of the upper. These around the toe as is necessary in such sewclosely placed tacks about the toe cut up the ing operation. upper and the innersole badly and the tacks The invention will be more fully eX- constituted such a. serious obstruction to the plained. in the following description, refer. welt sewing-on or welting operation that encebeing had to theaccompanying drawthe lasting tacks had to be pulled out when ing in which, is shown one form of ap` 8O the upper had somewhat set in its stretched paratus by the aid of which the invent-ion condition and a smaller number of more may be practised. y slender stay tacks provided in their Figure l is a perspective view of a por-- places. These, however, are objectionable tion of a lasting machine in which a slice only in less-degree, for the same reasons, as appears with the upper overworked and 85. the lastingtacks. To reducethese difiiculheld in position to be secured, together with ties it has-become the practice to tack the a sewingtool being used to form a stitch sides of the slice and bind inthe toe with a forsecuring the rear portion of the upper wire. It has also been proposed to sew the on one side of the shoe. F ig. 2 illustrates upper to the lip of the innersole around the the work on a larger scale, showing the shoe but this cuts up the upper and the loops extending through the upper and the innersole lip at the toe, particularly in narinnersole lip, the needle with which thel row toed shoes, so as greatly to weakenV the loops are inserted, and the locking strand material that must hold the inseam or welt which extends through the loops. To avoid attaching seam, ln accordance with the confusion in the lines of the drawings the present invention which involves a novel fastening` is shown as loosely applied, wheremethod of securing the upper in lasted p'oas it will b-eunderstood that in practice the sition these difhculties are obviated. loops may be drawn snugly. Fig. 3 shows a In its broadest aspect this invention conshoe, the upper of which has been secured sists in securing an upper in lasted position in accordance with this invention by a seat a plurality of separate points along the ries of stitches at the sides of the shoe and a sides of the shoe and binding in the toe porbinder at the toe, said stitches and binder tion of the upper with a continuous fastener. being all formed from a continuous strand This fastener may advantageously be a of fastening material. Fig. d is a detail.V thread with which stitches may be made The toe and heel lasting means of the along the side of the shoe and which will drawings comprise wiper plates 2 and 4 of constitute a suitable binder to tie in the toe well known type having continuous edges portion of the upper against the lip of the to embrace and work over the last, or the ininnersole. Among the advantages which nersole thereon, the upper material of an will be apparent for the use of this method entire end portion of the shoe at once, At

the heel the marginal portion of the upper is laid down upon the inne'rsole andsecured by tacks whichv may be clenched on the usual heel plate of the last and constitute permanent fastenings. About the toe and also along the sides of a welt shoe the upper is first to be temporarily secured and then permanently connected to the lip Iof the innersole by the inseam formed by the welter in sewing the welt to the lasted shoe. The toe wiper plates therefore lay the upper over the feather of the innersole and against the upstan'ding face of the lip. The side lasting devices 'are a series of pincers 5 'shown 'as 'four o'n each side of 'the shoe, which operate to 'pull 'the upper yover the last bottoni and hold it under tension until it is secured. The 'pincers may be of well known construction, such for example shown in Chase Patent No. 478,501. The stitch form ing apparatus is illustrated as a hand sewing tool 6 having` a curved needle `Sada'pted to carry a loop through the upper and the Y lip of the innersole.

In practising the invention a loop 10 is passed by the needle Athrough the upper and the lip of the inner'sole at the point where the upper should be secured for holding it in lasted position. This loop may be passed through the upper adjacent to the pincer or elsewhere at such a distance from the lip as will cause Athe stitch to tighten or draw the upper into `desired snug relation to the lip. Alternatively the loop may be passed from the innerside outwardly through the lip first and then through the upper. The free end portion 12 of the strand of the fastening'- mat'erial will be long enough to reach around the shoe to lock the loops. Alternatively a separate strand of the same or of different fastening material may be used to lock the loops. The needle is preferably advan'ced through the layers of 'stock to be united far enough to permit a partial retraction to open the loop. This having been done, the end portion'of the strand is passed through the loop and the loop is tightened to form atype 'of lock stitch of well known characteristics Another loop i's then similarly passed thro'ugh the upper and lip at the next point Awhere securing is desired and the operation repeated from the rear of the shoe until the toe is reached. Each stitch, as herein described, locks or anchors the fastening material but a different form of stitch might be Wused inwhich special manipulation would be given to lock the 'fastening Inaterialat the first stitch and to anchor it at the stitches next the toe. The fastening material, 'and it may be leither or both strands and inthe latter case they may or may not be twisted into 1a unit, is then passed around the toe portion of yhe upper which has been shaped by 'the wiper edges against the upstanding lip of the innersole to form a seat for the binder. The wipers may be partially backed ofi` the work, as is usual for this` purpose. The fastening material is tightened to bind the upper externally to the lip and may be temporarily held tight byv advancing the wipers again; or the binder may be tightened as a part of the operation of tightening the first stitch on the second side of the shoe. This first loop, when tightened in forming the stitch, anchors the second end of the binder, the first end of which was anchored by the last vstitch formed on the -fi'rst side ofthe shoe, as in fact it was by each stitch on that side of the shoe. Stitches are now made at such other points 'along the ball and shank of the second side of the vshoeas are required forholding' the upper to the lip; .TheseV stitches may advantageously beV located close to the pincer pulling points and may be on veither or` both sides of such points. The pincersrnay be released progressively as the stitching lprogresses if suitably arranged for that purpose or they may all after the securing operation is completed; The wipers will also be backed completely off the shoe at a suitable time and the shoe removed from the machine. It will Vbe obs served that by this invention I apply an outside binder to the lasted shoe from the shank on one side to the toe, then around 'the toe and back to the shank on the second side of the shoe. I anchor at its ends but at such points intermediate the ends and the vtoe as require attachment to the 'shoe in order to cause the portion of the binder between the points of attachnient to hold the upper against the innersole 'in position to taching machine. The section of the binder which extends around the toe of the shoe is entirely external or youtside the upper and is maintained in binding position bythe tension upon it and by the shape of the toe; In so 'considering the outside strand as such a binder extending varound the shoe from shank to shank it is immaterial whether the outside strand is the loop containing 'strand as in Fig. 2 or is the locking strand or portion 'of the strand as in Fig. Ll.

Having set forth the nature of this invention and explained how it may be used I desire to secure by Letters United vStates :protection for all the patentable novelty herein disclosed and I particularly claim the following:

1. The meth-od ofV making shoes which consists in working an 'upper yover a last, an'd securing the upper to the innersole lip at intervals along the sides of the shoe from the shank rforwardly and binding the upper to the lip about the toe porti-on cf the shoe all 'with a 'continuous strand.

2. The method of making shoes which consists in working an upper over a last,

be released togetherbe sewed by the welt at-V Patent of vthe this binder not only stitching the upper to the lip of the innersole along one side of the shoe from the shank forwardly to the ball, then binding the upper to the lip about the toe and then stitching the upper to the lip on the second side of the shoe rearwardly to the shank.

3. The method of making shoes which consists in working an upper over a last at a plurality of points along the sides of the shoe and 1n a continuous line around the toe, anchoring a strand at the rear of one side, fastening the upper to the lip of the innersole by the strand adjacent to each overworking point along that side, binding the upper externally to the lip by said strand around the toe, fastening the upper by the strand adjacent to the overworking points along the second side, and anchoring the end of the strand.

Il. The method of making shoes which consists in working an upper over a last, anchoring' a strand at the rear of one side, securing the upper by stitches along that side to the toe, anchoring the strand, binding the upper entirely externally to the lip of the innersole around the toe, anchoring the binder, stitching the second side of the shoe, and anchoring the strand at the rear of the second side.

5. The method of making shoes which consists in working an upper over a last, passing a loop of a strand through the upper and the lip of the innersole, and anchoring the loop at intervals along one side of the shoe from the rear toward the toe, externally binding the toe portion of the upper to the lip by thestrand, and then securing the upper on the second side of the shoe from the toe rearwardly at intervals in the same manner as the lirst side has been secured.

6. The method of making shoes which consists in working an upper over a last, passing` a loop of a strand through the upper and the lip of the innersole, locking the loop with one end portion of the strand, repeating this operation at intervals from the rear toward the toe to secure one side of the upper, binding the toe portion of the upper externally to the lip of the innersole, and securing` the second side from the toe rearwardly by loops locked with the end portion of the strand.

7. The method of making shoes which consists in working an upper over a last, stitching the upper to the lip along one side from the rear forwardly with a double thread, binding the upper externally to the lip by the two thread strands, and then stitching the upper to the lip along the second side of the shoe from the toe rearwardly.

8. The method of making shoes which consists in working an upper over a last, Stitching the upper to the innersole from the rear toward the toe and anchoring the stitching material, making a binder of the stitching materia and securing-the upper externally about the toe therewith, anchoring said binder, and stitching the upper rearwardly along` the opposite side of the shoe.

9. That improvement in method of making welt shoes which consists in temporarily securing the uppers in lasted position along the sides and around the toe by a continuous fastener which is anchored at a. plurality of points along one side, then extends as a binder wholly externally around the toe and is anchored at intervals along the ball and shank of the second side.

10. That improvement in method of making welt shoes which consists in working the upper over a last and applying a continuous binder from the shank on one side around the toe to the shank on the other side by anchoring the binder to the upper and the innersole at points along the sides of the shoe required for causing it to coniine the upper in position to be sewed to the innersole lip and extending the middle portion of the binder under tension entirely externally around the toe portion of the shoe.

11. The method of making shoes which consists in working an upper over a last at a plurality of points along the sides of the shoe and in a continuous line around the toe, holding the upper temporarily in overworked position, inserting a series of stitches through the upper and lip of the innersole to secure the upper in position for the nal inseam sewing' operation, and releasing the upper from the temporary holding means progressively as the stitches are inserted.

12. The method of making shoes which consists in working an upper over a last at a plurality of points along the sides of the shoe and in a continuous line around the toe, holding the upper temporarily in overworked position, inserting a series of stitches at the sides of the shoe through the upper and lip of the innersole to secure these parts together, binding the upper externally to the lip by a strand of the stitch forming material around the toe, and releasing the upper progressively from its temporary holding' means during the upper securing and binding operations.

13. The method of making shoes which comprises inserting a thread fastener through the upper and lip of the innersole, passing a length of thread from the fastener about the toe of the shoe, and inserting a second fastener at the opposite side of the toe to anchor the toe thread in place and bind in the toe portion of the upper.

14. '.lhe method of making shoes which comprises passing a thread from the outside of the shoe through the upper and lip of the nnersole at one a Stitch, carrying the thread around the outside of the toe and forming a second stitch from the Supply thread upon the op- .poste side of the toe to anchor the `toe thread and bind in the toe portion of the upper.

Copie's of this patent may be obtained for side of the toe to forni name to -this specification n' two subsorlbmg Witnesses.

JAMES CAVANAGH;

l In testimony whereof l vhave signedl my the presence of ve cents each, by addressing 'che Commssioxier of Patents.

Washington, D. CQ"

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