US1416405A - Dress form - Google Patents

Description

E. GURNEY.

DRESS FORM.

APPLICATION FILED osch4, 1919.

1,416,405, Patgnted May16,1922.

2 SHEETS-SHEET I.

A TTOR NE Y5 E.GURNEY.

DRESS FORM.

APPLICATION mso 020.4, l9l9.

Patented May 16, 19225 2 SHEET$-SHEET 2.

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A TTORNE YS entries EDIVIUND GURNEY, 0Z6 PORTLAND, OREGON.

DRESS FORM.

Application filed December 4, 1919.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, EDMUND GURNEY, a citizen of the United States, residing at Portland, in the county of Multnomah and State of Oregon, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Dress Forms, of which the following is a specification.

The present invention relates to improvements in dress forms and is designed primarily with a view to producing exactly the attitude of the person who is being fitted.

Adjustable dress forms of many types have heretofore been proposed, by means of which sections may be adjusted with relation to each other so as to obtain the correct measurements of size and these serve their purpose well, but the important feature in the art of tailoring resides more especiallyin the ability of the tailor to make the garment conform to the attitude, and by this term is meant the condition of erectness or poise, of a figure. In these known adjustable forms provision is not made for this, or at least would be obtainable, if at all possible, by complicated adjustments of the various sections, mainly because that portion of the form at the neck is stationary or immovably fixed, whereas a condition of stoop shoulder, for example, neces-' sarily involves a forward tilt of the neck.

My invention, therefore, has as its object to provide a simple dress form which comprises certain adjustable parts so arranged that by a simple movement of one, the parts are capable of being disposed in the desired position or attitude, predetermined generally by the application of the conventional measurements to the form of the person for whom the garment is being prepared.

My invention is based upon the fact that the varying degrees of erectness of the human form, running from the stoop shouldered to the very erect type, are modifications of the position of the head and shoulder portion with respect to a horizontal axis passing through the shoulders. This afiects, of course, the distance between the neck and the waist line both at the front and back, and in my dress form, hereinafter set forth, by pivoting a movable shoulder section at the shoulders and to a shiftable front sec tion operable with the shoulder section, I am Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented May 16, 1922.

Serial No. 342,426.

able to obtain any desired conformation of a dress form to the attitude of the person to be fitted.

These and such other objects as may herelnafter appear are attained by the novel constructlon, combination and arrangement of parts to be hereinafter specifically described and claimed. Reference will now be had to the accompanying drawings forming a part of this specification, wherein:

F igure 1 is a front elevation of a form constructed in accordance with my invention.

Figure 2 is a side elevation thereof.

Figure 3 is a rear elevation showing the movable shoulder section in closed position.

F igure 4 is a rear elevation similar to Figure 3, showing the movable shoulder section in open or forward position.

Figure 5 is a side elevation of the form in the adjusted position shown in Figure 4.

Figures 6 and 7 are front and side elevations of the neck attachment used with this form, and

Figures 8 and 9 are front and side elevations of the shoulder attachment also used with this form.

Throughout the following detail description and on the several figures of the drawings, similar parts are referred to by like reference characters.

Referring to the drawings, it will be observed that the form constituting the subject matter of my invention consists of a main or relatively stationary body portion 1, an upper shoulder and neck section 2, and a front movable section 3. These sections constitute the main features of construction of this form but it should be understood that the several sections may be divided if so desired, as in known forms at present in use, to obtain expansion or contraction of size but since this does not form any feature of the present idea, I neither illustrate nor describe such an arrangement.

The shoulder section 2 is produced by dividing the form in a horizontal plane from front to rear at the bust or shoulders, and this section is connected to the forward p0rtion of theback section by means of a pair of plates at each shoulder, designated 4: and 5, said plates being secured to the sections by fastening members 4: and 5, and connected to each other by the pivot means 6. The pivot or pivots, one at each side, it will be observed, are disposed in advance of a median plane passing vertically from side to side of the form, most clearly shown in Figures and 5 of the drawings.

Tn addition to this pivotal connection of the shoulder section, I employ nieas for holding the shoulder section at adjusted positions obtained by swinging the shoulder section forwardly or rearwardly on its pivot means. In the embodiment such means takes the, form of a slotted member '2 at tached at the center of the back and projecting above the same into cooperative re lation with the shoulder section which is provided with a clamping member or bolt 8 extending through the slot of the member 7. It will be obvious that the tightening of this clamping member will suflice to hold the shoulder section in any of its adjusted positions.

The front section 3 is formed by dividing the form at the waist line extending from the front to the middle of the form from the shoulder to the waist line, and this section is connected to the shoulder section by a pivot or hinge connection 9 at the bust line. The body 1 has secured thereto a metal plate 10, or similar means, engaging with the face of the lower end of the movable section 3 and forming a retainer or guide for the free end of this section. lt will he observed. that the movement of the shoulder section 2 forwardly or rearwardly will lower or raise the front section 3, as shown most clearly in Figure 2 of the drawings and this action necessarily changes the distance between the neck and the waist line at the front as well as from the neck to the waist line at the back, and such adjustment of the form is designed to make the same conform to the condition of erectness or poise of the person to be fitted, as hereinbefore premised.

As a matter of convenience T preferably secure to the hack of the form between the shoulders and the waist a convenient measuring means as indicated at 11, this facilitating the application of measurements tothe form as e:-: lained hereinafter.

Before describing the use of the form it may be well tonote that the form above described is preferably mounted. upon stand 12, the upright standard 12 of which extends into a tube 1.3 arranged within the form or body portion 1, the clamping screw 14 being provided for holding the form at the proper height.

Referring to Figures 6 to 9, 1 preferably employ with this form a neck attachment 15 which is in the nature of a collar provided at its lower edges with open ended slots 16 to engage w1th the fastening members 1? on the shoulder section and. when it is desired, to obtain a position of the neck to more nearly follow the particular figure which is to be fitted. in addition I also employ for the same purpose of reproducing different types of shoulders a shoulder attachment l8 engageable with the fastening means 19 on the shoulder section as shown in Figure 3.

The form above described may be made of any desired material such as papier-mache, metal or the like.

In the use of the form, when it is de sired to adjust the same, the conventional measurements of the person to be fitted are applied thereto in the usual. manner. For example, in tailoring the most important measurement which is to be ascertained is the depth of the scye, or the distance between the neck seam and the plane at the bottom of the armhole. This is secured by passing a tape about the bust of the person directly beneath the arms, making a mark in the center of the back with a piece of chalk, as at A in Figure 3. The measuring tape is then applied. to ascertain the distance between the neck seam B and the mark A, this being noted as the depth of the scye, and the distance between the mark A and the waist line is noted, giving the height of the scye. Of course, other methods of measurement may be followed and this is not designed to define any specific manner. or method to be pursued in ascertaining the conventional measurements. The first measurement, however, which is applied to the dress form is the depth of the scye measurement. in a pplyi this measurement, if the distance between the neck seam and the mark A needs lengthening, as where there is a slight stoop in the figure of the person fitted. the shoulder section is moved forwardly until the measurement coincides, whereupon the fastening means 8 is tightened to hold the shoulder section in the adjusted position. The height of the scye being known is applied or apparent from the measuring device 11 whicl is attached to the dress form. l fhere the person is more erect it will be obvious that the adjustment of the form is obtainable by a reverse movement of the shoulder section. In these adjustments the neck of the form is brought forwardly or rearwardly and the front section 3 is correspondingly shifted so that the tailor able to duplicate the form to be fitted to the customers actual measurements. The use in conjunction with the form of the attachments shown. in Figures 6 to 9 need not be further described than has already been set forth in the foregoing description.

The form may be displaced from the standard 12 and, placed upon a table if so desired for purposes of convenience.

Having thus described my invention, what ll claim as new is:

1. A dress form divided horizontally;

across the bust to form a shoulder portion and a main body portion, and, pivot means connecting the shoulder portion to the body portion at the opposite sides thereof holding said shoulder portion against movement laterally but permitting it to swing forwardly and backwardly.

2. A dress form divided horizontally from front to back at a plane passing through the shoulders to form an adjustable shoulder and neck portion and a main body portion, pivot connections intermediate the shoulder and body portions to permit the form to swing forwardly and backwardly about an axis passing through the shoulders whereby the shoulders and neck of the form may be simultaneously adjusted.

3. A dress form divided horizontally from front to back at a plane passing through the bust to form an adjustable shoulder portion and a relatively stationary body portion, and pivot means connecting the shoulder portion to the body portion in a plane forwardly of the median vertical plane from side to side of the form whereby to permit the shoulder portion to swing forwardly and baokwardly with respect to the said median plane.

4. A dress form divided horizontally across the front in two planes, one at the shoulder and the other below the shoulder to form an adjustable shoulder portion, an adjustable front portion and a main body portion, pivot means connecting the shoulder portion to the body portion to permit the former to swing about an axis passing through the shoulders, and means intermediate the shoulder portion and the front portion to permit the latter to shift with respect to the body portion when the shoulder portion is adjusted.

5. A dress form divided horizontally across from front to back in a plane passing through the shoulders and in a plane approximate the waist line at the front to form an adjustable shoulder portion and a separate adjustable front portion, pivot means for said shoulder portion permitting the same to swing forwardly and backwardly, and a connection intermediate the shoulder and front portions to permit the latter to shift upwardly or downwardly when the shoulder portion is swung forwardly or rearwardly.

6. A dress form divided horizontally across from front to back in a plane passing tl'irough the shoulders and in a second plane approximate the waistline at the front and vertically at the sides to form adjustable shoulder and front portions and a main stationary portion, means pivotally connecting the shoulder portion and the body portion at the front of the latter and a hinged connection between the shoulder and front portions whereby when the former is swung upon its pivot the latter is shifted upwardly and downwardly.

7. A dress form divided horizontally across from front to back in a plane passing through the shoulders and in a second plane approximate the waist line at the front and vertically at the sides to form adjustable shoulder and front portions and a main stationary portion, means pivotally connecting the shoulders portion and the body por tion at the front of the latter, a hinged connection between the shoulder and front portions whereby when the former is swung upon its pivot the latter is shifted upwardly and downwardly, and means for guiding and holding the lower part of the front section.

8. A dress form of the class described, comprising a relatively stationary back section, an upper shoulder section pivotally connected to the back section, and a front section pivotally connected to the shoulder section whereby movement of the shoulder section will modify the depth. of the scye and simultaneously modify the distance between the neck and the waist line at the front.

9. An adjustable attitude form of the class described, comprising a main body portion, a shoulder section pivoted thereto at the front of the body portion to permit the shoulder section to move forwardly or rear wardly to reproduce erect or stoop shouldered configurations, said body portion having a separate front section shiftable by the shoulder section to move the bust upwardly or downwardly in the shifting of the former.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature.

EDMUND GURNEY.

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