US1376387A

US1376387A - Method of making shoes

Info

Publication number: US1376387A
Application number: US232917A
Authority: US
Inventors: Brock Matthias
Original assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Current assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Priority date: 1918-05-06
Filing date: 1918-05-06
Publication date: 1921-04-26
Anticipated expiration: 1938-04-26

Description

M. BROCK.

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

APPLICATION men MAYB. 1919.

Patented Apr. 26, 1921.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

M. BROOK.

METHOD OF MAKlNG SHOES.

APPLICATION FlLED MAY6.1918.

Patented Apr. 26, 1921;

2 SHEETSSHEET 2.

/NVENT[7R.

PAT-5N? UFIFh-Sfi- MATTE-IZAS snooze, or sos'ren,

EEAiEEFSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOB TO siren TEACHINEBY COB-P03131 I, 0." PATH-RS011 NE'W .51 (lORlOBATIGN OF NEW JERSEY.

LEETHQID Gli I'IIAKING SHOES.

1 376 381 specification of Letters Patent. 1 3 531111 6 Apr, 26, 19551.

Application filed May 6, 1918. Serial No. 232,917.

the drawings indicating like parts in the eral figure iliiS invention relates to improvements in nlcthods of ma 4. A

end of a shoe to prer sewing aronnd the end. *nproverent in shes making methods liable to both the heel and toe ends ,es and in accordance witl the practice ericinplified is c actcrized by the ,g of "ialsewhich may include the nd stiffener, to a shoe form and the marginal portion of the tread face a produce flange upstanding nelinite angle re 'vely to the treat til 0 c of the form located a predetermined distance inwardly from the edge of the tread face,

=ogether to provide a multithe sid faces of the orcing each other the tread face lied distance from ed together at their ons to a flange upstanch inc sulwstani.

tread fa at wardl rrom its edge.

This molding operation may be preliminary to lasting and, in that event, greatly facilitates the subsequent lasting operation, or, with the cheapergrades of shoes, it may entirely supersede the lasting operation, the molded upper with the end stiffener being stitched to the shoe sole by means of the molded flange which will form a sewing flange cooperating with the sewing rib of the sole. Certain classes of shoes with a. molded upstanding sewi have what is known as sewed heel seats, the upper at the heel seat being sewed, and not nailed as usual, to the heel end of the insole, and the ontsole also where one is used being attached by stitching. V

A conspicuous example of a shoe having a sewed heel eat is found in the so-called powder mill shoe which is sewed entirely around the heel end and is without an at tached heel because of the danger of explosion from heel nails or pegs. To illustrate the practice of method of this invention, therefore, I have selected this type of shoe as embodying structural requiriments to which my improved method shoe tim nnl' is particularly applicable. Shoes of ti s t, pe must have permanence of shape,

he cheaply manufactured and contain no tacks or nails in the heel scat. My iinpreved method of shoe making, when practised in the manufacture or. shoes 01" this type, sl tl r and end to the rem. L see with the necessity of s1v sequent lasting st p and provides the up with sewing inges -for.stitching to the sewinis, as previously 2 ted. i or" narticuer advan' 3e at the heel ll t which l1CSS?lll sew 1 and cannot nailed, anl .ccordinely. for the purpose lllHStlatlT-Jf the n actice of the method, l

end of a shoe of the It is to he understood, however, t ctice of the method is not necessarily limited to shoes of this type or to the heel ends of ices.

In the anpended illus :rstive drawings, Figure l shows a powder mill shoe upper with the upper and heel stiffener stock molded to the desired form and provided flange in this invenno 1 Lil accordance with the method of tion,

Fig. 2 is a vertical section on the line 2-2 of Fig. 1 and shows the molded and flanged heel seat end of the shoe,

Fig. 3 is a vertical section through a last having mounted on its tread face an insole having a sewing rib around its heel end to which the flanged and molded upper is to be stitched,

Fig. 4 is a view of the shoe upper as assembled on said last and sewed with a welt to the heel seat portion of the insole,

Fig. 5 a view of a completen shoe having'a sewed heel seat,

Fig. 6 shows in perspective portions of an apparatus which may he used to practice the method and Figs. 7, 8 and 9 illustrate successive steps of the method as practisel by the use of the apparatus shown in Fig, 6.

In practising my improved method in the manner illustrated in connection with the heel ends of powder mill shoes the upper and unmolded heel stillener or counter are mounted upon a shoe :lforni functioning as an inner mold and conforming to the shape of the rear en d of the sh e, although preferably slightly e2; qgerated as to the side contours so as to over mold and allow for the reaction of the steel: from the stretching and compressing action in molding. The stock, including the unniolded heel stillener or counter. is then clamped and moloed to the side facesoi the shoe form by a; outer mold of corresponding shape which is closed against the inner mold under suhstantir. pressure. The u standing portions oi th upper stock including tieheel stiffener then molded inwardly over and down on th marginal tread face of the form i a i molding instrumentality, such as ed wiper plates, and the marginal portions of the stock at a pr determined distance from the edges of the form are molded tov hetreen said rigir. wiper plates a flange forming); ace of a second rigid molding member superposed in c 1 osition on the tread face or" the term to produce a upstanding; the tread face at definite angle determined if. the angular TGlfltlOIl of the side or flange ing face of said second molding m l. the tread face of the form this angle eraolv. producing a. flange extendin stantially 'ierpeudicularly to the trend of the form or inner mold.

lVith the heavy stiff upper materials it he necessary to repeat this molding "operation a numher or times to set the The molded upper and heel stiliener are r then removed from the shoe form and the heel end of the shoe is ready to he sewed to the insole. Wit-h powder mill or other shoes, the toe portion of the upper and toe sti'ilener may be similarly molded to a suitably shaped shoe form and the margin of the upper correspondingly shaped by suitable molding instruinentaliti s after which the upper and welt are stitched to the sewing rib of the insole which extends entirely around the shoe. The shoe is then subjected to the usual trimming and filling operations and an outsole is applied and stitched to the welt in the usual manner.

In the illustrative drawings the molded heel end 2 of the shoe upper is shown as having a horizontal portions molded with the heel stiffener or counter 8 over the heel lace parallel with face th marstitched to the sewing rib or the insole together with a strip of welt-lug 18 igs.

aid 5), an outsole 2G being subseuently applied over the insole and stitched o the welt in the usual manner.

One form of apparatus by the of which the method may he practised is shown and claimed in my copending; apiiication Serial No. 235814- liled on May 2l. I l 8. a: d portions of such apparatus are herein illusin Figs. 6 to 9 inclusive. although it will he understood that the practice of the method is not depeiident upon. the use of apparatus of this or of any other specific orm. As illustrated in Figs. 7 to 9. the end the up}: 1' materials. including unniold d 7 I p heel stiiiener i clamped eroum.

a shoe end form 22 by the use of an outer clamp nielnher or mold into operative l'ela i n to which the form 22 is mov ed rearwardly from its idle position indicated in 6, the margin of the materials projectingbeyond the bottom face 26 or": the form a suitable distance to provide the sub-- sequent melding of the margin to produce the required inturned and upstanding flange portions. The form 22 supports on its hot-- torn face a flange forming plate 28 provided with a rib which projects within a guideway 30 in the form to guide the plate for movement l ngthwise oi the form. A stop screw 32 projecting into a slot in the plate 28 determines positively the limit of forward movement of the plate. and by engagement with set screw 36 which. is threaded in the plate determines also adjustuhly the limit of backward 'movement of the plate.

rgiu or 7 The plate 28 is normally helt at its limit of backward movement by means of a spring plunger 38 in engagen'ient with one arm 40 of bell crank lever the other arm 42 of which bears against the outer end of the screw 36.

The plate 28 has an outer edge contour similar to the.

22, although of smaller curvature, and 1 1 ll tie plate may be positioned, for example, as shown in Fig.

if its edge face sub- "he rea end face of the ned the edge face of V i rages the uostanding margin of t ,als around the rear end of the f rm initially agains as pressure of end eml' racing wiper plates one of which is shown at l, these ple. being moved forso wart y and closed in lat :ally of the form in any suitable manner, an their inner'edges having a contour such as to press the margin of the upper firmly against the edge face of the plate 28 around its rear end and along its sides when the wipes are in closed position. ce to Figs 7, 8 and 9 it will be t e wipers begin to close in- .te :28 is pressed yieldingly its gnideway against the re- 0 controlling mechanism, thus 1 e upper materials closely against h wipers around the end of th the curvature of the mate rials is ronounced and where the margin 33 must he gathered as it is wiped inwardly, he yielding plate thus contributing to smoothness and uniformity in the gathering or ciwiping of tie materials and assistalso in causing the materials to be held i .l ed upon effectively by t 1e per 1 "Les L-llSll" verwiping operation. P ore the entire width of the margin of r aaterials has been stripped from the wi sis and the inner plate 28 bottom face of the her forward movement of the opped by the resistance of the nd the plate then se es as an outiient against which the poshe materials still up increased molding the continueo movement of the rates, these plates se g .-ly to he ma materials a iinst the face of the plate 28 along both sides ell as around the rear end and to form p angle in the materials in conformity A agile between the edge face of the i ii the bottom face of the form. if desired, and in accordance with one aspect of the method, the overwiping operation be repeated a plurality of times to produce a cumulative molding effect upon the margin of the upper, the wipers being prefera ly retracted only partially from -l (n he) C p i the spring plunger 38 by means of a latch d6 which engages the end of the arm 40 to hold it upraised in the position to which it is moved by the first advance of the plate 28. Finally the wipers are backed entirely the upper is released from clamping p *ssure between the inner and outer forms, and upon release of the-arm d0 by the latch the plate 28 is returned to its initial position.

the practice of the described method the heel end of a shoe upper and the uninoloed counter may be molded to a form and provided with a flange upstanding at a de -ite angle with relation to the tread face of form at the heel seat and located a the ret eterinined distance inwardly from the of said face whereby the shoe upper so molded may be united to an insole with said flange'stitched to a sewing rib extending around the heel seat to provide a sewed heel seat, as hereinbefore explained. As previously pointed out, this same method may also be practised in the molding of the toe of the shoe.

Having thus described my invention, what 1 claim new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is That improvement 'a methods of maktogether to produce multiply structure fitting the side faces 1. heel form, molding the marginal port upper ant. stiflener together inwardly over the heel seat face of the form for a predetermined distance parallel with said face, and moldv lg the said marginal tions together substantially perpendicrr v to said into an upstandin flange extending around the end of the heel seat.

2. That improvement in methods of preparing shoes to be sewed around the end which consists in molding an upper and an end stiffener together to produce a multipl structure fitting the lateral contour of a shoe end form and in which structure the plies of material molded together reinforce each other, molding the marginal portion of the materials together inwardly over the tread face of the form for a predetermined distance, and molding the said upper and stiffener together between unyielding molding instrumentalities into a sewing flange standing substantially perpendicularly to said tread face around the end of the. form.

That improvement in methods of preparing shoes to be sewed around the end which consists in positioning the end portion of upper materials around a shoe form, and molding the margin of said materials between and in contact with rigid molding instrumentalities to produce a flange upstanding at a definite anglewith relation to the'tread face of the form around the end of the form and located a predetermined dis tance inwardly from the edge of said tread face.

' 4. That improvement in methods of shaping shoe uppers which consists in positioning upper materials about a shoe form with the margin of the materials projecting be yond the bottom face of the form, clamping said projecting margin in upstanding relation to the bottom face of the form and carrying the margin thus clamped inwardly over said face while permitting it to slip and shaping a portionof it in parallel relation to said face, and then holding substantially stationary a portion of the margin still clamped in upstanding relation to the bottom face of the form and increasing the pressure against said upstanding portion to mold it in that relation to the form.

5. That improvement in methods of shaping shoe uppers which consists in positioning the end portion of upper materials around a shoe form with the margin of the materials projecting beyond the bottom face of the form, wiping the margin of said materials inwardly over the bottom face of the form, pressing against the inner surface of the margin of the materials as the wiping progresses to hold the unwiped portion upturned from the bottom face of the form, and before the entire width of the margin has been wiped down upon said face opposing substantially unyielding resistance against the inner surface of the portion still upturned and increasing the pressure against its outer surface to produce a molded flange extending at a pronounced angle to said face.

6. That improvement in methods of shaping shoe uppers which consists in clamping the end portion of upper'materials around a shoe form with the margin of the materials projecting beyond the bottom face of the form, gathering and wiping'the margin of said materials inwardly over the bottom face of the form around its end, applying yielding outward pressure against the inner surface of the margin of the materials c011- tinuously around the end of the form as the wiping progresses to cause the materials to be gathered substantially free from wrinkles and wiped smoothly down upon the bottom the end portion of upper materials around 7 a shoe form with the margin of the materials l projecting beyond the bottom face of the form, wiping the margin of said materials inwardly over the bottom face of the form, pressing yieldingly; outward against the inner surface of the margin of the materials around the end of the form as the wiping progresses to hold the unwiped portion upstanding from the bottom face of the form, before the entire width of the margin has been wiped down upon said face opposing substantially unyielding resistance against the inner surface of the portion of the margin still upstanding and increasing the pres sure againstits outer surface to produce a molded flange projecting at an angle to the bottom faceof the form and repeating the overwiping and pressure applying operation against the outer surface of the materials while continuing to oppose unyielding resistance against the inner surface of the upstanding portion of the materials.

8. That improvement in methods of shaping shoe uppers which consists in clamping the end portion of upper materials around ashoe form with the margin of the materials projecting beyond the bottom face of the form gathering and wiping the project ing margin of the materials inwardly against the bottom face of the form around its end throughout a portion only of the width of said margin, and then opposing substantially unyielding resistance against the inner surface of the unwiped portion of the materials while holding said portion upturned and increasing the inward wiping pressure to mold the inner portion of the margin into a flange upstanding at a pronounced angle to the bottom face of the form.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

" MATTHIAS BROOK.