US1365525A - Guide for sewing-machines - Google Patents

Description

J. M. MERROW.

GUARD FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED MAR 5, 191thv Patented Jan. 11, 1921.

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JOSEPH MERROW, OF HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNOR TO THE MERROW MACHINE COMPANY, OF HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT, A CORPORATION OF CON- NECTICUT.

GUIDE FOR SEWING-MACHINES.

Application filed March 5, 1918.

a To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, J OSEPH M. Mnnnow, a citizen of the United States, residing in the city of Hartford, county of Hartford, State of Connecticut, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Guides for Sewing-Machines; and I do declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming a. part of this specification, and to the characters of reference marked thereon.

This invention relates to guides for sewing machines, and particularly to guides for facilitating the inclusion of tape, braid, ribbon, cord or the like in overedge stitching. WVhile the invention is susceptible of adaption to various overseaming machines it is especially useful in connection with crochet machines and is shown and described as embodied in a Merrow shell stitch machine, which is designed to form shells composed of different numbers of stitches, thereby to produce ornamental and other desired effects. The guides and other devices forming a part of this invention have been especially devised and arranged to permit and facilitate the peculiar method of manipulation of the tape or braid herein disclosed. For a full description of a Merrow machine of the type mentioned, reference may be had to United States Patent No. 1,207,314, issued to Joseph M. Merrow, December 5th, 1916. The term tape as hereinafter employed is intended to include strip material as, tape, braid, ribbon or cord, and the inclusion of such material with an overedge finish will be referred to as taping.

In the manufacture of underwear and other apparel certain classes of garments have been provided with tape included within the edge finish and extended around the neck, with suflicient length of tape left' for the purpose of tying a bow knot, the tape being left free under the finish in a manner to provide the well known expedient for gathering the edge of the material withwhich the tape is associated. It frequently occurs that the tape is included in the finish about the neck of a garment, while bordering one side of the open front thereof the finish is continued without the tape. In such cases it is often desirable that the edge finish down the front where the tape is not included should be moreample and ornate than that part of Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Jan. 11, 1921.

Serial No. 220,591.

the finish which includes the tape, and the machine shown embodying the present invention is adapted vary the style or amplification of the stitching accordingly. Furthermore the devices of the present invention facilitate manipulation of the tape, insuring a suflicient and uniform lengthat each end of the tape being left free of the finish for tying the bows, the tape being introduced at the point desired, and the end of the tape after having been cut off from the main supply being moved into a position where it will be fed along with the goods without being included within the edge finish. Provision is also made whereby the mechanism for changing the character of the finish can be actuated while the machine is in operation or when it is at rest.

This invention consists of a combination of novel devices peculiarly arranged to permit of and facilitate a new method involv ing, with reference to an overedge finish, the introduction and exclusion of tape in an improved manner, as will be hereinafter described in detail and particularly set forth in theappended claims.

One convenient form of the invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings, wheroin,

Figure 1, is a View in front elevation of a Merrow shell stitch or crochet machine equipped with taping devices.

Fig. 2, is a plan view of thework plate of the machine shown in Fig. 1, and certain adjacent parts, together with indicated manipulation of a tape for effecting its placement prior to its inclusion with subsequent stitching during the formation of the latter.

' Fig. 3, is a View similar to Fig. 2, except that the indicated manipulation of the tape is that for effecting a placement thereof to insure its exclusion from subsequent stitching. 7

Fig. 4, is a detail view of guide devices and their supports, the several parts being shown in separated relation to indicate clearly their order of assemblage.

Fig. 5, is a detail view of a tape tension and guide device hereinafter more fully described; and, I

Fig. 6. is a detail sectional view on line 6-6 of Fig. 2.

Like characters of reference designate like parts throughout the several views of the drawings. 7

A. crochet machine of the type referred to as being well adapted for the practical use of my present invention includes stitch forming elements as the eye pointed needle 1, crochet hook 2, chaining finger 3, and supplemental thread carrier 4, together with feeding devices. The needle is carried by -needle bar 6, mounted for reciprocatory movement in bearings 7 and 8, of the machine frame 9, and driven from the main shaft 10, through eccentric 11, connecting rod 12, lever 18, link 14, and the needle bar clamp 15. The usual hand wheel and belt pulley 16, is secured to the outer end of shaft 10. The chaining finger is normally stationary but is movably mounted for the purpose of adjustment. Within the machine frame, mechanism (not shown herein but fully illustrated and set forth in the Patent No. 1,207,314, mentioned above) is provided for actuating the crochet hook 2, in a curved path to effect its cooperation with the needle below the work support, and with both the needle and the supplemental thread carrier above the work support, the curved path of the crochet hook extending around the chaining finger, which serves to initially support the enchained threads and to regulate the form of the stitching, all in a manner well known to those familiar with the art. In a manner also common in this art, the supplemental thread carrier is arranged to be oscillated across the path traversed by the needle, by mechanism including a rock shaft 17, supported in bearings 18 and 19, of the machine frame, the thread carrier and an arm 20, being adjustably secured to the shaft which may be rocked by the action of a suitable cam (not shown ,a with which the arm 20, is maintained in contact by a spring 21.

A presser foot 24, and feed dog 25, co operate in the usual manner to advance the work step by step as the stitching is applied thereto, there being preferably pro vided in connection with the feed devices, feed changing mechanism whereby the number of advance or feeding movements imparted by the feed dog to the material being operated upon may be varied in relation to the number of needle penetrations of the material. The complete mechanism for effecting this action is not shown in the ac companying drawings but in Patent No. 1,207,314, referred to above it is shown and described. Such mechanism includes a member 40, operable by shifting of the slide 41, to which iu is secured, the latter being supported in a frame cap 42, at the front of the machine. This frame cap also affords a convenient support for slide 43, to which are attached certain guides hereinafter described.

It will be understood that the number of needle penetrations for each advance of the work determines the number of stitches to each shell or cluster formed. A finish usually preferred for the inclusion of a tape is composed of fewer stitches to the cluster than a finish wherein there is imparted to the finish a softer, rounder and more elaborate appearance by increasing the number of stitches to each cluster, the result being in such case, that the edge of the finish is nearly straight and parallel with the edge of the material to which it is applied, the additional edge being therefore of a character suitable for the practical application of another course of clusters of stitches forming well rounded and ornamental shells extending outside of the original course of finish and not penetrating the tape. When a second course of finish is not desired the primary course of finish may to advantage be made more ample and to display a rounded efiect of the shells at the edge. The production of these different eflfects involves guiding of the work to the feeding elements with different widths of margin defined upon the work by the needle penetrations. To meet requirements for effecting varied results of the, character set forth there is provided a fabric edge guide arranged for simultaneous movement with, and move ment in correlation to the feed changing mechanism. In other words, assuming for example that the feed mechanism is de signed to produce either four or eight stitch shells, the fabric guide may be, upon setting the feed mechanism for four stitch shells, moved away from the line of needle penetrations, and, vice versa, upon setting the feed mechanism for eight stitch shells the fabric guide may be moved toward the line of needle penetrations. For effecting these results a lever 49, provided with a thumb knob 50, is fulcrumed to the frame cap at 51, and connected to each of the slides 41 and 43. The connection between the lever and slide 41, comprises a stud 52, carried by the slide and engaged by the forked end 53, of said lever. The connection of the lever with the other slide 43, includes a link 54, which is pivoted by a fixed stud 55, to the slide and associated with the lever by a stud 56, adapted for adjustment in the armate slot 5'4, of the lever. The adjustment provided for in this slot and stud arrangement affords means for varying the amplitude of movement imparted to the slide 43, for a given movement of the lever, which in the present case is established by the range of movement of slide 41. When the lever is shifted to move this slide 41 to the extreme right, as viewed from the front of the machine; the slide 43, providing its connection with the lever is established by the link 54, will be moved to the left. into a position where the arcuate slot in the lever becomes concentric to the center of stud 55. It will be obvious, in view of this concentric relation, that adjustment of stud 56, in its arouate slot will not effect the position of'slide 48. Said adjustment, will however, cause the slide to be moved a greater or less distance to the right upon actuating the lever through its established range of movement, and this movement imparted to a fabric guide as 60, secured to the slide will effect different placements of the guide. The distance between such placements determines the distance between the lines of feed they establish for the work. Provision is also made for adjustment of the guide with respect to the slide, so that the location of the range of movement of the slide may be varied with respect to the needle. An arrangement to permit of such adjustment may include a suitable clamping screw as 61, which is passed through an elongated slot 62, in the shank 63, of guide 60, and threaded into the slide.

When both the slides 41 and 43, are connected as above described they will, together with the associated parts, be actuated in unison upon movement of lever 49. Should it be desirable to render these slides independent of each other, so that the edge guide may be moved without effecting the feed, or the feed changed without moving the edge guide, the link 54, may be disengaged from stud 56, as indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 1, the link being made in hook form for this purpose.

Per so, the mechanism thus far described is not herein claimed as invention, but the functions of the fabric guide and feed changing devices are closely related to functions of the tape guiding devices which will now be described.

In a machine of the type shown a convenient point from which to deflect a tape toward a subsequent guide for leading it to the field of stitch formation is preferably located just in front of the fabric guide 60, somewhat above and to one side of the work support. For this purpose a member 65, is secured adjacent to the stitch finger clamp 66, and a suitable tension for control of the tape may be associated with this member, which for convenience will hereinafter be identified as the primary tape guide; 'A flat tension spring 67, is superposed upon this primary tape guide and secured thereto at one end by a screw 68, while its other end may be caused by a screw 69, to exert any desirable pressure toward the surface of the tape guide at the base of the tape receiving notch 70. Normally, the tape, from a suitable source of supply, passes through a slot 71, under the end of the tension spring, and thence into the notch 70. For convenience of thus threading the tape, a comparatively large opening or hole 7 2, is provided in the tension spring, and an opening or recess 73,

in the member 65. After inserting the tape into these, it may be easily drawn through the slot 74, into the normal relation set forth.

From this primary tape guide the tape is directed in a path in which the tape makes a right angle turn, in order that it may pass beneath the presser foot in proper relation to the work, certain elements, as deflectors and 76, being employed to effect this turn without folding of the tape, and such ele ments also serving to facilitate suitable placement of the tape beneath the presser foot and into position to be included within the field of stitch formation, that is, in a position to be surrounded by the threads of the stitches as they are formed, the expression, field of stitch formation, being employed as a brief and definite indication of the vicinity where the needle, crochet hook and chaining finger coiiperate to form overedge stitches. By defining the relative position of certain parts about this vicinity or the field of stitch formation, it is believed the present invention may be most clearly distinguished from the prior art. The novel arrangement involves a disposal of the tape guiding elements in a way to present to an operator of the machine both an unobstructed view of the work at the point of stitch formation and accessibility essential to quick threading of the machine. Furthermore, the arrangement of the deflectors permits the tape to turn an angle in substantially edgewise relation to the axis of its turning movement, or, in other words, the natural tendency of the tape to twist in following a turn in fiat relation to the work is counteracted by the deflectors, such counteraction being facilitated by the fact that the primary tape guide is offset laterally and vertically from the field of stitch formation. The deflector 75 may be conveniently supported by the slide 41, and adjustably secured thereto, with its shank 77, provided with an elongated slot 7 8, in superposed relation to the similar shank of the fabric guide, the screw 61, serving to firmly secure both the fabric guide and deflector. In practice this deflector could well be attached to any convenient stationary part of the machine. The other deflector 7 6, is shown as integral with and extended from the forward side edge of a member 79, having an opposite edge 80, turned downwardly to form a secondary or final guide for the tape as it advances into the field of stitch formation. This member 7 9, is provided with an elongated slot 81, to receive a screw 82, by which it is secured to the somewhat narrowed toe 83, of the presser foot. The elongated slot 81, permits of an adjustment of the member 7 9, whereby the tape channel formed by the edge 84, of the presser foot and the downwardly turned lip 80, may be varied to form an accurate guide 86, for different widths of tape. To the toe of the presser foot and to the guide associated therewith there is imparted an upwa rd trend toward the front, so that tape in being placed thereunder while following the downwardly facing laterally inclined surface of the deflector 76, (see Fig. 2) will clear the laterally extending spur 90, of the fabric guide 60, and it will be apparent that the fabric and tape are directed toward the stitching elements by separate guiding devices. When initially placing the tape for its inclusion within the edge finish it will be observed that it is carried laterally under the presser foot from left to right, passing from the deflector 76, across the rounded edge 91, of the presser foot and under the work engaging surface of the latter. In order that the tape may be drawn through the tape tension by the feed devices, a supplemental feed dog is provided at 92, which is alined with the tape guide 86, in parallelism to the line of feed. This supplemental feed dog cooperates with a lateral extension of the presser foot comprising the member 93, which is secured to the presser foot by a screw 94. The under surface of member 93, overlies that part of the margin of the work which is provided to receive the tape in superposed relation thereto, the described arrangement of the feed dog work plate, presser foot, and tape guide and tension being effective to maintain such superposed relation, thereby insuring the feeding of the tape while under tension.

In Figs. 2 and 3, as already stated, there is shown respectively the manner in which a tape may be introduced under the presser foot for inclusion within the edge finish, and the manner of removing the tape from the field of stitch formation. Referring to Fig. 2, it will be assumed that the tape has been previously cut off near the primary tape guide 65, leaving an end extending therefrom of sufficient length to be grasped between the thumb and index finger of the left hand of the operator,this end may then be drawn through the tension to such an extent as to permit of the tape being swung under deflectors 5 and 76, and thence under the raised presser foot into parallel ism with the line of feed, whereupon it is engaged by the final tape guide 86. It may then be drawn tl'irough the tension and guides sufficiently to provide the desired length of free end, after which the presser foot may be lowered and the machine started to effect the stitching.

To remove the tape from the field of stitch formation, (see Fig. it is, from a point between the guides and 86, drawn through the tension sufficiently to provide the desired length of free end and to clear the deflectors 75 and 76. The tape is then cut off near the guide 65, and swung to the rear beneath the raised presser foot, which latter may then be lowered for continued operation of the machine, that part of the tape adjacent the fold which directs it to the rear being held beyond the field of stitch formation, by the lowered presser foot. If manipulation of the tape isperformed as indicated in this Fig. 3, when a shell of the edge finish is only partly formed, it is well to draw the work slightly to the rear together with the tape so that the subsequent descent of the needle will puncture the work as at 97, slightly in advance of the point 98, of previous needle penetration. This precaution will insure avoidance of accidental piercing of the tape by the needle. In connection with any of the indicated tape ma nipulation, it is desirable to have the needle withdrawn from the work and in descending relation thereto and the crochet hook in a position to permit of raising the presser .oot.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim is,

1. In an overedge sewing machine, in combination with feed mechanism including a presser foot for engaging the work and means adapted at a. point beyond the field of stitch formation to hold a tape in superposed relation to the work, a fixed tape guide in advance of the presser foot in a plane above the work and offset laterally from over the work, and means between the tape guide and the field of stitch formation for causing the tape as it is drawn toward the presser foot with the work to assume with respect to the latter a fiat and unfolded relation parallel with the plane of the presser foot.

2. In an overedge sewing machine, in combination with feed mechanism including a presser foot for engaging the work and means adapted at a point beyond the field of stitch formation to hold a tape in super- 110 posed relation to the work, a fixed tape guide in advance of the presser foot in a plane above the work and offset laterally from over the work, and a deflector located wholly on one side of the tape between 11 the tape guide and the field of stitch forma tion for causing the tape asit is drawn toward the presser foot with the work to assume with respect to the latter a flat and unfolded relation parallel with the plane 120 of the presser foot.

3. A tape guiding and tensioning device comprising a plate secured at one end to a suitable support and having a tape receiving notch at its opposite end, a spring se- 125 cured to the plate with a free end adjacent the tape receiving notch, means for varying the pressure of the free end of the spring toward the plate, said spring having a slot by way of which a tape may pass under the 130 free end of the spring, and both the spring and the plate having apertures in substantial register, whereby threading of the tape beneath the end of the spring is facilitated.

4. In an overedge sewing machine, in combination, a presser foot having a lateral extension to the rear of the field of stitch formation, a feed dog cooperative with the presser foot extension, a fixed guide in advance of the presser foot, in a plane above the work and offset from over the work, means between the presser foot and guide for deflecting a tape therebetween, and a tension device for maintaining a taut condition of that part of the tape between the guide and the feedingelements.

5. In an overedge sewing machine, in combination, a presser foot, a guide member associated with the presser foot, a fixed guide in advance of the presser foot in a plane above the work and laterally offset from over the work, a deflector between the fixed guide and the guide on the presser foot, for maintaining a flat relation of the tape in passing from one guide to the other, and a deflector on the presser foot for maintaining a flat relation of the tape as it is passed to the presser foot guide from the side of the presser foot opposite to said guide.

6. In a shell stitch crochet machine, in combination with feed changing mechanism and a fabric edge guide, a presser foot, means associated with the presser foot to form a tape guiding channel for directing a tape beneath the presser foot in superposed relation to work guided by the fabric edge guide, and means for effecting simultaneous adjustment of the fabric edge guide and operation of the feed changing devices, whereby placement of the tape may be varied with respect to.the margin of the work and the character of the stitching applied thereto.

7. In a shell stitch machine, in combination with feed changing mechanism and a fabric edge guide, a presser foot, means associated with the presser foot to form a tape guiding channel for directing a tape beneath the presser foot in superposed relation to work guided by the fabric edge guide, means for effecting adjustment of the fabric edge guide whereby the margin of the work may be shifted laterally with respect to the tape, and means for operating the feed changing devices, whereby the character of the stitching may be changed for different placements of the tape'with respect to the margin of the work.

8. In a shell stitch machine, in combination with feed changing mechanism and a fabric edge guide, a presser foot, means as sociated with the presser foot to form a tape guiding channel for directing a tape beneath the presser foot in superposed relation to work guided by the fabric edge guide, means for effecting adjustment ofthe fabric edge guide, means for operatingthe feed changing devices whereby the character of the stitching may be changed for different placements of the tape, and means for associating the fabric edge guide and the feed changing mechanism for simultaneous operation.

v9. In an overedge sewing machine, in combination, a presser foot, a'tape guide asso ciated with the presser foot and extendingin the direction of the feed, a fixed tape guide in advance of the presser foot, in a plane above the work and offset from over the work, and a deflector between the guides to prevent twisting of the tape, the arrangement being such that the tape may be grasped between the fixed and presser foot guides and moved laterally out of the latter to. a position where it will not be confined by the stitches.

10. In an overedge sewing machine, a presser foot, a tape guide on the presser foot, a tape guide on the machine frame extending above the planeof the work and offset from over the work, and means for causing the tape between the guides to turn an angle in substantially edgewise relation to the axis of the turning movement, the arrangement being such that the tape may be grasped between the fixed and presser foot guides and moved laterally out of the latter to position where it will not be confined by the stitches.

11. In an overedge sewing machine, in combination, a presser foot, a guide associated with the presser foot, and alined to direct a tape in parallelism to the line of feed, a fixed tape guide supported in advance of the presser foot, in a. plane above the work and offset from over the work, and a tensionmember associated with the fixed guide, said tension member and fixed guide each having an opening adapted to receive a tape from a direction transverse to the alinement of the presser foot guide, the arrangement being such that the tape may be grasped between the fixed and presser foot guides and moved laterally out of the latter to a position where it will not be confined by the stitches.

12. In an overedge sewing machine, in combination, a presser foot, a guide associated with the presser foot and alined to direct a tape in parallelism to the line of feed, a fixed tape guide supported in advance of the presser foot, in a plane above the work and offset from over the work, and a tension member associated with the fixed guide, said tension member and. fixed guide each having an opening to facilitate threading of a tape into other openings with which said members are provided to receive a tape from a direction transverse to the alinement of the presser foot guide, the arrangement being such that the tape may be grasped between the fixed and presser foot guides and moved laterally out of the latter to a position where it will not be confined by the stitches.

13. In an overedge sewing machine, in combination, a presser foot, a guide associated with the presser foot and alined to direct a tape in parallelism to the line of feed, a fixed tape guide supported in advance of the presser foot, in a plane above the work and ofl'set from over the work, and a deflector between the guides to turn the tape edgewise therebetween into a flat and unfolded relation parallel with the plane of the presser foot, the arrangement being such that the tape may be grasped between the fixed and presser foot guides and moved laterally out of the latter to a position where it will not be confined by the stitches.

14. In an overedge sewing machine, a presser toot, an open bottom tape guide associated with the presser foot and extending in the line of feed at one side of the line of needle penetration and a downwardly facing laterally inclined tape deflector associated with the presser foot extending on the opposite side of the line of needle penetration from that on which the tape guide is located, whereby an intermediate portion of a length of tape may be deflected under the presser foot and swung across the line of needle penetration and into the open bottom tape guide.

15.111 an overedge sewing machine, a presser foot, a tape guide associated with the presser foot and extending in the line of feed at one side of the line of needle penetration, said guide being open on the underside, whereby a tape may be placed in or removed therefrom by a transverse movement of the tape below the guide, a fixed tape guide offset from over the work and remote from the presser foot whereby the tape may be grasped by the operator between the fixed guide and presser'foot guide, and an intermediate deflector for the tape located in proximity to the presser foot guide and around which the tape may be passed by a transverse movement of the tape, and by which an intermediate part of the tape will be guided to facilitate the manual locating of the tape in the presser foot guide, by a transverse movement of the tape.

JOSEPH M. MERROW. Witnesses:

Mrs. B. K. PARKER, F. E. ANDERSON.

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