US2074655A - Sewing machine for the manufacture of gloves - Google Patents

Description

March 23, 1937. 2,074,655 I SEWING MACHINE .FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF GLOVES W. LINDNER Filed March 4,1952 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 m mm (In W" m M: W"

15' Jrweziar:

Wazz'er' Llhazwer' 14 14 12A WWW-Elm AZ'Zbrrrey Q March 23, 1937. w. LINDNER SEWING'MACHINE FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF GLOVES Filed March 4, 1932 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 10 v ray-z llr'g. 4.

March 23', 1937. w, UNDNER 2,074,655

SEWING MACHINE FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF GLOVES Filed March 4, 1932 5 Sheets-Sheet s x By. 3 fig. 1362/.

Jfiuemor: WaZZ'er 4'72 d er MIW Patented Mar. 23, 1937 PATENT. OFFICE SEWING MACHINE FOR THE MANUFAC- TURE OF GLOVES Walter Lindner, I'leissa, near Limbach, Germany, assignor to Firma Johannes Richter "A.- Limbach, near Chemnitz, Germany Application March 4, 1932, Serial No. 596,819. I

In Germany March 11, 1931' Claims.

My invention relates to machines for making gloves and more especially to an improved sewing machine for the production of suchgloves, which may be made of any suitable material, preferably 5 knitted textile fabrics, such as imitation Swede and kindred specially made glove fabrics. They may also be made of other kinds of fabrics, such as cotton, wool, silk, artificial silk, linen etc., and including double cloth, sateens, polished, fleeced and chemically treated fabrics, and

leather.

The objects of the invention-and the advantages obtained thereby will be better understood by first briefly reviewing the state of the art in 5 this field of. manufacture:

Various manufacturing methods referred to in detail hereinafter are known in the manufacture of gloves. The principal features common to all those methods are that the different cuttings of which the gloves consist-trank, fourchettes, thumb, and gussetsare sewn together along their circumferential edges, and that for the production of gloves of widely difierent trade sizes including the smaller, the medium and the largest sizes, of some cuttingsincluding fourchettes and thumbs-only a few standard sizes are available from which'also the gloves of the intermediate viz. next smaller sizes are to be made. Said methods however widely differ from each otheras to the position in which the cuttings are assembled uponor along each other while being sewn together, and as to the type of seamings appliedin each case, depending on the t pe and construction of the respective sewing machines used. I

Gloves manufactured with the aid of sewing machines of types and design known heretofore are not giving complete satisfaction for, various reasons referred to in detail hereinafter, although much care is generally devoted to overcome the many difiiculties arising in the production of gloves, and although a relatively large percentage of gloves is discarded in the course of their manufacture as being defective.

45 Referring first to gloves made from rather stout leather, these are made in many cases by sewing together the cuttings with their edges partly seams, on double thread overseaming machines of special design, and. cutting devices of special design cooperatively associated with the sewing members are used for cutting off the protruding 5 edge portions during the sewing operation proper.

However, as these cutting devices had to be arranged in close proximity to, the sewing members of the machine, the space available for the cooperation of the thread guiding, loop forming, ma- 10 terial supporting, feeding and other vital members of the sewing machine, and for freely manipulating the glove especially in sewing sharply bent sections such as the finger tips is seriously obstructed by the knives with the result thatthe 15 latter will often cut radially into the said sharply bent sections of the glove, that the whole structural design of those sewing machines will become extremely complicated, and that it will be a diflicult task even for the most skilled seam- 20 stresses to keepthe machines in good working order.

Moreover in using double thread overseaming machines for joining the edges of the cuttings V ly take no material at all at-sorne places so that v a number of stitches are missed entirely, and a toppling overseam is obtained.

By reason of occurrences of this kind a great percentage of. defective gloves are produced which are unsightly in their appearance andlittle resistive against wear and'tear, viz. liable to break at the defective seamings.

Defects and dlfiiculties similar .to those referred to hereinbefore with reference toleathe'r gloves also occur in the manufacture of gloves made of 40 cuttings from textile fabrics briefly called hereinafter fabric gloves. I

A method much in use of producing fabric gloves consists in placing the, cuttings in reversed position upon each'other, viz. with their wrong sides out, sewing together their circumferential edgeson lockstitch or chainstitch machines, and eventually reversing the gloves As a matter of fact it is impossible to avoid, in

sewing, the formation of those well known bulging seamings, which although being inside the gloves are particularly objectionable at the finger tips, causing real discomfort to the wearer in the case of tightly fitting gloves, while loosely fitting gloves at least have an unsightly appearance.

'Also in cases where it is preferred to sew the textile fabric cuttings together with their right sides without and with lap seams so as to avoid the reversing of the gloves, bulging ridges and projecting warts are produced on the outside or the gloves along the fingers which discredit the gloves as to their appearance.

The principal object of my invention is to overcome the various drawbacks referred to above by providing an improved overseaming sewing ma-v chine of relatively simple design for their manufacture.

In connection therewith the invention aims at thus designing the sewing machine, that three thread overseamings of relatively narrow width,

' narrower than known before are produced at the edges of the gloves which are uniform and decorative in their appearance and have great strain resisting properties.

N Other objects of the invention will incidentally become apparent hereinafter to experts in the sewing machinefleld.

g The nature and scope of the invention is briefly outlined in the appended claims and will be more fully understood by the following specification taken together with the accompanying drawings in which I Fig. 1 is a side elevation showing an improved sewing machine designed according to this inven- Fig. 2 shows the principal 'members for guiding and looping the threads" in their lowest position underneath the throat plate on a larger scale,

Figs; 3, 3a, and 3b show the same members in m intermediate position ready for forming the loops, Jointly with the throat plate, the cloth feeding, pressing and guiding members on a larger scale,

Fig. 4 shows the seam forming members in their highest position relatively to the throat plate,

Figs. 5 and 6 show the throat plate and the presser foot respectively from different angles. My experiments have shown that gloves of superior quality as to their correct fit, durability and resistance against wear and tear, neatness in appearance and absence of objectionable, warts and bulging ridges referred .to above, are obtained by providing sets of cuttings including trank, fourchettes, thumb, gussets-of individual size and shape for each trade size of gloves, viz. by so designing said cuttings that they match each other at their circumferential edges with so high a grade of accuracy,higher than known heretofore-that no protruding edge portions need to be cut ofl during the following manufacturing steps,superposing the respective complementary cuttings with their edges flush to each other and sewing them together with triple thread made ovs of relatively narrow width-nar- 00 rower than known heretofore-on a triple. thread overseam sewing machine presenting the specific structural features described hereinafter.

As seen in Fig. 1 the principal members of the sewing machine are a frame on which a recipro as eating rod ll carrying the needle I is mounted,

the machine being actuated by hand or mechanical power through a driving mechanism of known design. Said driving mechanism and some other accessorial members such as thread tensioning 70 and pulling devices are also diagrammatically indicated in Fig. 1 of the drawings but will not require any description in detail. Since Fig. '1 is tical representation of a sewing ma-- chine the member llas shown in Fig. 3 has been 76 omitted therefrom.

The work plate has beenpmitted in the draw- I ings in order to more clearly show the thread carrying and seam forming members and their actuating mechanism, which are or at least can be of known design.

The members cooperating with the'reciprocating rod It and needle 9 comprise an oscillating hook I l, carrying and looping one of threads, and another oscillating hook l2, which is arranged beneath the cloth feeder II and throat plate it and is adapted to carry and loop another thread; The said hooks II and 12 are shown in Fig. 1 in their uppermost position and of the presser foot hereinafter is arranged at the front side of the machine frame so that its lower end "a bears against the throat plate i4 closely to the needle opening, while its upper end bears against a stop adjustably mounted on the machine frame in such manner that the arm I can be set into its appropriate position and is held in the latter.

Referring now to Figs. 2-8 in which the principal members of the improved sewing machine. are shown in a larger scale: Fig. Z-shows the needle 9 being in its lowermost position; equally the hooks II and I! which carry threads at their perforated ends Ila and I20 respectively are in their lowest positions, hook ll being formed with a nave Nb and being mounted on a shaft -*(not shown) so as to'be swun'g up and down as seen in Figs. 2-4.

The cloth feeder i3 is formed at the lower side of its toothed section with bevelled faces I la, b

so as to provide ample working space for the hook Ha, enabling the latter to get as closely as possible underneath the upper face of the cloth v feeder and the throat plate H.

In Figs. 3 and 4 the thread carrying and seam forming members 9, II, I! are shown in an intermediate and in their uppermost position respectively: While the needle 9 rises upwards from its lowest position a loop is formed which is caught by the hook Na and is pulled over the latter; thereafter, viz, while the hooks II and I! are approximately in the position shown in Fig. 3 the thread carrying end I 2a of hook l2, enters the loop of the thread carried by hook Ho and pulls said loop over itself. a

Eventually the needle 9, on being approximately in the position shown in Fig. '4, enters the loop of the thread carried by hook lie so that the said loop is equally locked.

While the glove under treatment is pushed forward by the cloth feeder IS the loops are all pulled together through the action of the thread tensioning device, referred to above, and a triple thread overedge stitch is obtained of which all the threads are securely interlocked.

According to this invention the throat plate I4 I seen in Figs. 3, 3a, 3b, and 5 is specially designed so that a very narrow seam is obtained; I have found it desirable for this purpose-especially in the case of rather thin fabrics,to arrange the needle opening, the needle, the cloth carrying and guidingmembers and the thread carrying hooks as closely'as possible to each other, and

Owing to this arrangement however the cloth feeder and presser must be also in close vicinity to the said edge of the throat plate whereby the available working space is reduced, and it has become necessary for me to thus design the seam forming members that they do not mutually ob struct the space required for their work.

This problem has been solved in the following manner: As seen in Fig. 5, comprising-a plan of the throat plate It the needle opening has been ostensibly displaced towards the said free edge of the throat plate and has been brought into close quarters with a thorn-like projection a; the latter is so designed that the threads are caused to slide off in the desired form.

The said thorn I 4a of which ,Fig. 5 presents also a side elevation has a tapering recess at its lower face so designed that the hook l lu can pass closely underneath said thorn which is a rather delicate yet important member of the sewing mechanism.

In Fig. 3a containing a section taken approximately through the needle opening of throat plate It the curved lower face Nd of a member from which said thorn Ila projects can be seen in a larger scale.

Fig. 5 showing the throat plate I in plan and in cross section will make clearjointly with Figs. ,3 and 3a the shape of the recesses or slits which are provided in the throat plate, one on each side of the bridge member Mb in which recesses the cloth feeder l3 moves with its toothed portions Ba, and l3b.

In Fig. 3b there is diagrammatically indicated in dotted lines on top of the cloth feeder the specific form of the foot plate of the cloth presser t5, the latter having two sections |5a and l5b.

The said cloth presser I5 is shown from three different angles in Fig. 6. From this figure it appears that the said foot plate i5 is provided with several bevelled edges, viz, one at its front section l5b, another .one at its rear section Hit, a third one at the corner c and others at the offsetting points of transition between the sections lid and l5b.

By thus shaping the cloth presser IS an advantage of great importance is obtained which consists therein that the glove under treatmentalthough being firmly held in its various positions-can yet be readily turned around even at very sharply curved seams, and in most cases even without lifting the cloth presser; by reason of this feature seamstresses will be able to produce gloves having faultless seamings even around the finger tips.

According to this invention the sewing of gloves with this machine is greatly facilitated by the provision of a guide arm l6, referred to above and i being shown in Figs. 1, 3, 3a, and 3b. Said arm is pivotally mounted on the machine frame by a screw l6d and bears against stop l'l, i'la secured to the machine frame by a screw lib. -Arm I6 is a guide member serving several purposes, viz. guiding the edge of the materials, supporting the throat plate, and finally protecting the fingers of the seamstresses and providing a kind of rest -or support for her fingers.

The lower end of said guide arm I6 which bears against. and acts as a support to the throat plate It is provided with a sloping face l8a which is arranged closely to the needle opening, said configuration facilitating the turning of the gloves in curved sections of their seamings and providing a maximum of space for the formation of the seam.

By reason of the glove under treatment being guided from above by arm IS the glove is secured against accidentally slipping off, and in addition the delicate parts of the throat plate are effectively supported by the said arm and in such manner that the work of the thread carrying and loop forming members, more especially of the hooks I la, I, is not interfered with.

From Figs. 3 and 3a. it will be seen that the said arm i6 is a good support for and protects especially the right hand of the seamstress, which is an equally important feature, if one realizes that the upper face of the work plate of the machine is generally formed with a vaulted section which covers up especially the hook Na and also partly the movement of the hook l2a.

ularly for gloves, comprising a throat'plate; an

arm in the form of a guide finger for the glove; a presser foot; a cloth feeder, said foot and-feeder being arranged in close proximity to the free edge of the throat plate and the throat plate having a thorn member; anda stop member mounted on the machine, said throat plate, cloth feeder, thorn member'and presser foot having recesses and bevelled edges to provide a working space for the seam forming members enabling them to interlock the threads closely at the outer edge of the throat plate and in close proximity to the needle opening to produce an overedge seam of relatively narrow width at the same time to provide ample space for the manipulation of the glove. I

2. A triple thread overseaming machine according to claim 1, in which the arm at its upper section bears against the stop and the lower section of the arm bears against a bevelled edge of the throat plate adjacent to the needle opening.

3. A triple thread overseaming machine particularly for gloves, comprising a throat plate; an

arm in the form of a guide finger for the glove; and a stop member mounted on the machine, said arm at its upper section bearing against the stop and the lower section of the arm bearing against a bevelled edge of the throat plate adjacent to the needle opening in the plate.

4. A triple thread overseaming machine particularly for sewing together the parts of a glove,

. comprising a throat plate; a thorn member on the throat plate defining therewith a needle opening; a guide finger for the glove to be sewed cooperating with and supporting the throat plate; driving members for the machine; thread guiding and seam forming members; a presser foot; and

a cloth feeder arranged in close proximity to the free edge of thethroat plate, the throat plate, cloth feeder, and presser foot having recesses and bevelled edges to provide a working space for the seam forming members enabling them to inter- I lock the threads closely at the outer edge of the throat plate and in close proximity to the needle opening and to produce an overedge seam oi relatively narrowwidth, at the same time providing 5 ample space for the manipulation of the glove to be sewed even around sharply bent curves.

5. A triple thread overseaming machine particularly ior sewing together the parts of a glove,,

to provides. working space for the seam forming members enabling them to interlock the threads closely at the outer, edge of the throat plate and in close proximity to the needle opening and to produce an overedge seam of relatively narrow width, at the same time providing ample space for the manipulation of the glove to be sewed even around sharply bent curves, and said guide finger bearing at its upper section against a stop, the lower section 0! said guide finger bearing against a bevelled edge of the throat plate closely to the needle opening, and being so designed as to support and protect the fingers oi the operator, and at the same time to support and protect the pointed thorn and to act as a guiding member for the glove both in cases when straight and sharply bent edges, such as the finger tips of the glove, are being sewed together.

WALTER LINDNIR.

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