US1361218A - Method of and machine for ornamenting hosiery - Google Patents

Description

w. L. BZARRON.

METHOD OF AND MACHINE FOR ORNAMENTING HQSIERY.

v I, APPLICATION FILED OCT-16,1919. 1 ,361,218. Patented Dec.-7, 1920..

2 SHEETS-SHEET u.

/ WITNESSES: INVENTOR W. L. BARRON.

METHOD OF AND MACHINE FO'H ORNAMENTING HOSIERY. APPLICATlON FILED OCT. 16, 1919.

. 2 SHEETSSHEET 2- INVENTOR wnvzs: flan ,w v BY iii'l'E STATES PATENT OFFICE.

WILLIAM L. BARRON, OF NEWARK, NEW JERSEY, ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGER MANU- FACTURING COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Dec. 7, 1920;

Application filed Qetober '16, 1919. Serial No. 331,040.

To all whom it may concern: 1

Be it known that I, \VILLIAM L. BARRON, a citizen of the United States, residing at Newark, in the county of Essex and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inMethods of and Machines for Ornamenting Hosiery, of which thefollowing is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to ornamental stitch sewing machines and has for an object to provide a machine of this type which is particularly adapted for sewing arrowhead figures on hosiery to complete the usual ornamentation known as clocking.

Heretofore, arrow -head clocking on hosiery has been formed either by knitting in the ornamental thread or threads or by sewing in the stem of the clocking on an overedge or other straightaway stitching machine after which the arrow-head has been embroidered by hand in position at the upper end of the stem. Also, the entire ornamentation has been produced by hand embroidering.

Methods of clocking involving hand sewing operations are costly to carry into effect and it is also difficult and costly to properly knit in the ornamental threads.

The present invention therefore has for a further object to provide a method ofclocking hosiery which may be rapidly carried into effect by machine operations, thereby eliminating the tedious hand work previously found to be necessary.

Further objects of the invention will ap pear as the description proceeds.

According to the present invention the stem of the ornamentation is sewn as usual by folding the ankle or leg portion of the hose longitudinally and presenting the folded edge to an overcasting or overedge stitching machine, after which the'hose is opened out and placed upon the work-supporting horn or cylinder'bed of a second machine adapted to stitch the arrow-head ornamentation in a position with its base substantially at right angles to the axis .of the work-supporting horn, The work-support includes opposed guides for laterally locating a filler piece of blotting paper or angular aperture within which the ornamental figure or arrow-head is stitched.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure l is a side elevation of a machine embodying the invention. Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the free end portion of the work-support ing arm or horn showing the needle and work-holder. Fig. 3 is a top plan view of the upper and lower work-holding elements. Fig. 4 is a side elevation of the same. Figs. 5 and 6 are, respectively, transverse and longitudinal sections through the workholding elements with the work in position therebetween. Fig. 7 is a section on the line 7-7, Fig. 4. Fig. 8 is a diagrammatic view showing the arrangement. of the needlepunctures produced by the present machine in sewing the arrow-head ornamentation. Fig. 9 is a plan view of the completed work and Fig. 10 is a transverse section on the line10--10, Fig. 9. r 4

In the preferred embodiment of the invention, as illustrated, the machine frame comprises a base 1 from which rises the standard 2 carrying the bracket-arm 3 terminating in the hollow head 4 in which is journaled the needle-bar 5 carrying the eyepointed needle 6. In practice, the needle 6 cooperates-with a suitable loop-taker, not shown, within the free end of the hollow work-supporting horn or cylinder-bed "I which projects forwardly from the base 1 at an elevation above the. table-top a upon which such machines are customarily sta tioned. The work-supporting arm or horn 7' carries the usual apertured throat-plate 8 atits forward or free end.

The work is adapted to be clamped bebodiment illustrated, is moved to and fro over the throat-plate 8 to position the stitches in accordance with the desired pattern. The present work holder is of the general type disclosed, for example, in my atent No. 1,205,317, of November 21, 1916, and comprises the supporting bar 9 on which is mounted the bracket 10 having at its free end a head 11 in which is slidably mounted the presser-box 12. Projecting forwardly from the presser-bar 12 through the slot 12 in the face of the head 11 is the rod 12 the extremity of which lies above and in the path of vertical movement of the arm 12 of a bracket-piece fixed to the lower end of the usual manually operated presser-foot lifting bar 12 journaled in the head 4.

The work-holder is moved longitudinally of the bed 7 by means of the usual cam-slot 13 in the inner face of the cam-wheel 14. This cam-slot imparts rocking motion to the lever 15 which communicates its motion in a manner well known to the vertical post 16 rising from the rearward end of the bar 9. The work-holder is vibrated laterally of the bed 1 about the post 16 as a pivot by means of the usual connections with the cam-slot 17 in the outer face of the cam-disk 14. These connections include the bellcrank-lever 18, pitman 19 and rock-shaft 20, all as more fully described in the patent to Horton No. 1,051,998 of February 4, 1913. It is understood that a machine of the present type operates automatically, when tripped into action, to stitch the desired pattern in the work and then come to rest; the usual stopmotion 8 being provided to control the period of action of the machine.

Secured to the front end of the bar 9 is the lower or work-supporting plate 21. This plate is provided with a stitching aperture 22 having the form of an isosceles triangle arranged with its base 23 substantially at right angles to the longitudinal axes of the bar 9 andwork-supporting arm 7. Stated in another way, the stitching aperture 22 is so disposed that its axis of symmetry repre sented by the dotted line extending from the point 35 to the point 36 in Fig. 8 extends lengthwise of the work-supporting arm 7. The plate 21 carries the upstandin guidewalls'24 at the opposite sides of t e aperture 22 and the guide-wall or stop 24' at the rear of said aperture. These guidewalls, 24, 24, together with the plate 21 form a holder for a suitable filler-piece to be stitched'to the under side of the work.

It will be noted that this holder is open at rearward wall 24 is cut away, as at 25, to

avoid undue puckering of the goods as it is pressed into position between the walls 24 by the presser to be described.

The presser-bar is provided at its forward end with a forward extension 26 which, at its free end is formed into a flat foot-plate or presser 27 having a triangular aperture 28 similar to and substantially in register with the aperture 22 in the work-supporting plate 21. The width of the presser foot 27 is somewhat less than the distance between the side guide-walls24 so that said foot may enter the space between said walls and clamp the work firmly against the work-supporting plate 21.

rior to the operation of the machine, it is understood that the hose 29 has first received the stem ornamentation as, for example, by being folded longitudinally and presented to an overedge machine to form the line of ornamental stitches 3O lengthwise of the wales 31.. As overedge machines fusually produce a readily raveling stitch, the stitching 30 isstarted at a point near the ankle of the hose and extends upwardly toward the point 32 where the arrow-head ornamentation 33 is to be placed; the arrow-head being depended upon to anchor the finishing end of the seam 30 and prevent raveling of the latter.

With the presser-foot 27 elevated, the operator then slides the filler-piece 34 horizontally between the guide-walls 24 and into engagement with the stop 24 without vertical movement, there being no obstruction at the front of the space between said walls 24, and places the open end of the hoseover the horn 7 with the'end 32 of the seam 30 directly beneath the aperture 28 in the presserfoot 27 so that when the presser-foot is lowered the triangular aperture 28 will expose the upper end of the initially stitched seam at substantially the center of the base of said aperture.

When the machine is started, the needle makes-the first stitch at the point 35, Fig. 8, within the overseam 30 and, as the workholder is shifted forwardly, the stitching proceeds toward the apex 36 of the triangle, whereupon to and fro lateral vibratory movements are imparted to the work-holder as the latter is slowly retracted, thereby placing the needle-punctures alternately at opposite sides of the triangle. WVhen the bottom of the triangle is reached, a few appropriate finishing stitches are placed along the base and the final tying stitches are placed at the point 35 after which the machine comes to rest. After the work is removed from the machine, the operator tears away or otherwise removes the uncovered portion'of the filler-piece leaving I the finished work as shown in Figs. 9 and 10. Although it is possible to do the above described work on a flat bed machine it will be readily understood from the foregoing disclosure that the combination afforded by the use of the tubular work-supporting arm over which the hose may be readily placed without distortion, together with stitch-forming mechanism and a workholder adapted to produce a stitched figure having its axis of symmetry disposed lengthwise of the work-supporting arm, is particularly desirable for sewing clocking on hosiery.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim herein is 1. A sewing machine for clocking hoisery having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-support, means on the worksupport for positioning a filler-piece in sewing position at the underside of the work, a presser-foot having a foot-plate formed with a sewing aperture, and means for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and presser-foot to lay the sewing threads across from one to the other side of said aperture and progressively along the length of said aperture, thereby substantially covering with stitches the area of material exposed within said aperture.

2. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-support, means on the work-support having side and bottom walls for positioning and supporting a filler-piece in sewing position at the under side of the work, a presser-foothaving a foot-plate formed with a sewing aperture, and means for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and presser-foot to substantially cover with stitches the area of material exposed within the aperture of the presser-foot.

3. An ornamental stitch sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a work-holder including a worksupporting plate formed with an apertured bottom wall for supporting a filler-piece and having spaced guiding means rigid with said bottom wall for laterally positioning the fillerpiece over the aperture therein, a presser-foot having an aperture registering with the aperture in said bottom wall, and means for relatively moving the stitchforming mechansm and work-holder to substantially cover with stitches the area of ma terial exposed within the aperture of the presser-foot.

l. An ornamental stitch sewing machine having, in combination, stitchforming mechanism, a work-holder comprising a work-supporting plate formed with an apertured bottom wall for supporting a filler-' piece and having spaced guiding means rigid with said bottom wall for laterally positioning the filler-piece over the aperture therein, an apertured presser-foot adapted to be re ceived between said spaced guiding means, and means for relatively moving the stitchforming mechanism and work-holder to substantially cover with stitches the area of material exposed within the aperture of the resser-foot.

5. A sewing machine for clocking hosiery having, in combination, a frame including a tubular work-supporting arm, stitch-forming mechanism incorporated in said frame, a work-holder including means on the worksupporting arm for laterally positioning a filler-piece at the under side of the work, a vertically movable presser-foot having an aperture so disposed that an axis of symmetry of said aperture extends lengthwise of said arm, and means for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holder to substantially cover with stitches the area of material exposed within the aperture of the presser-foot.

G. A sewing machine. for clocking hosiery having, in combination, a frame including a tubular work-supporting arm, stitch-forming mechanism incorporated in said frame, a work holder including spaced guiding means for laterally positioning a filler-piece at the under side of the work, a Vertically movable presser-foot having a triangular aperture disposed with its base substantially at right angles to the longitudinal axis of said arm, and means for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holder to substantially cover with stitches the area of material exposed within the aperture of the presserfoot.

7. A sewing machine for clocking hosiery having, in combination, a frame including a standard and a work-supporting horn free at one end and at its opposite end joined to the standard above the base of the latter, a work-holder mounted on said horn and including work-support and presser members formed with registering triangular apertures with the bases of said apertures extending substantially at right angles to the longitudinal axis of said horn, stitch-forming mechanism incorporated in said frame, and means for producing relative stitch-positioning movements between said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holder to substantially cover with stitches the area of material exposed within the aperture of the presser-foot.

8. A work-holder for ornamental stitch sewing machines having, in combination, an apertured work-supporting plate including a substantially flat bottom wall for supporting a flat filler-piece, upstanding guiding means at opposite sides of the aperture of said plate to laterally position the filler-piece over said aperture at the under side of the work, and a correspondingly apertured vertically movable presser-foot adapted to be received within the space defined by said guides.

9. The method of clocking knitted hosiery which comprises, sewing a straightaway line of ornamental stitches longitudinally of the wales of the hose, assembling the hose thus prepared over the arm of a cylinder-bed machine with a filler-piece against the inner surface of the hose at the upper extremity of the first-made line of stitches, operating the machine to sew through the hose and filler to form an ornamental group of stitches covering and anchoring the upper end of the first line of stitches and, lastly, removing the portions of the fillenpiece which are not in- 10 cluclecl in the stitched figure In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

WILLIAhI L. BARRON.

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