US1259980A - Device for applying centers to shirts. - Google Patents

Description

J. C. HAWLEY & W. S. JACKSON.

DEVICE FOR APPLYING CENTERS T0 SHIRTS.

APPLICATION FILED JAN. 27. 1913- Patented Mar. 19, 1918.

2 SHEETS-SHEET I.

INVENTORS A TTO'RNEY I. C. HAWLEY & W. S. JACKSON.

DEVICE FOR APPLYING CENTERS T0 SHIRTS.

vrucmou n20 IAN-27,1913.

- 1,259,980. Patented Mar. 19, 1918.

2 sums-sun 2.

' lNvENToR:

M4. M aw/M "UNITED STATES PATENT oEEro JOSEPH o. HAWLEY, or DUNCAN-NON, AND WILLIAM STEELL JACKSON, OELBALA, PENNSYLVANIA. 1 K

DEVICEFOR APPLYING CENTERS 'ro' SHIRTS.

To all whom iii-may concern:

Be it known that we, JOSEPH C. HAWLEY and l/VILLIAM STEELL JACKSON, citizens .of

the United States, residing at Duncannon,

Perry. county, Pennsylvania, and Bala, Montgomery county, Pennsylvania, respectively, have invented a certain new and useful Deviceifor- Applying Centers to Shirts, of which the following .is a specification.

The purpose of our invention is to auto matically superimpose a shirt edge at the front opening and center, with a lining within the center, preferablytpassing' one within the folded edge of the other, so that they. can be united in their superimposed positions. I Afurther purpose of ourinvention is to inclose the edge of a shirt at the front opening between adjoining and overlapping folded center edgesso that they can be united in this position; 7 A further. purpose of our invention is to automatically fold a line'dv shirt center, and the edge of a shirt atthe front opening,

forming the overlap of the center parts upon the side of the center upon which the shirt lies and the fold of the shirt edge toward the center, so that the superimposed shirt and center can befed to a sewing machine. Preferably, we interlap the fold of the shirt within the fold "of the center. Further purposes of=our invention will appear in the specification and claims thereof.

We have preferred to illustrate our invention by several forms thereof which have been successfully constructed and Whichhave proved to be simple, inexpensive and highly efficient and which at" the .sameitime well illustrate the principles of Olll invention.

- Figure 1 is a frontelevation of one form of center folder used witlrour invention. 1

Fig. 2 is a longitudinal section of the structure shown in Fig. 1.

Fig. 2 is a section similar to that of Fig. 2 of a second form of center folder.

Fig. 3 is a section of the structure shown in Fig. 2, upon line 33 thereof.

Fig. 4 is a section. upon-line 4% of Fig. 2. i i

Fig. 4: 19 a "section"corresponding to Fig.

3'but of a modified form. V I

Fig. 5 is a side-elevation of another form i of folder.

the arrangement of F igq9 V is a section of Fig. 10 upon line- Specification of Letters Patent. Patented Mar. 19, 1918.

Application filed January 27, 1913. Serial No. 744,300.

Fig. 6 is a section at point 6- 6 of.

may place the shirt and center for attach:

Inent. v I p Fig. .10 is a side elevation of a hemming attachment and folder capable of producing Fig. 11 11ll.

Fig. 11 is asection corresponding to Fig. 11 of a construction capable of forming the combination shown in Fig. :9".

' Fig. 12 is a side elevation showing the i use of one of our folders combined with :an

inter-lapping hemmer. I

r Fig. 13 is a section upon line 13- 1301 the structure shown in Fig. 12.

Fig. 14 is a section of a structure similar to ithatin Fig. 13 but showing another form of center folder.

Fig. 14 is a modified has. similar a I Fig. .14.

In the manufacturing of shirts particu larly. ofthe neglige type, a decoration or finishl technically known as a ,-center is placed vertically upon the front of the shirt covering the edgeof the shirt at the center opening. 7

Our invention finds such excellent illustration in its application to folding,applying and lining such shirt centers that we have preferred to describe it and claim it in term of shirts and centers, notwithstanding that we recognize its usefulness in fo'ld-' ing, applying and lining other fabric fac-- -1ngs, backings or strips and contemplate such other uses of the principles of our inventionas Within the scope of this application. We, therefore, use the shirt and center terms merely "as emblematic or rep- ;resentative of any flexible parts which re quire folding and application, with or withour invention.

'WVejwill briefly describe severalexce-llent forms of folders with which we have preoutlining, within the spirit and scope ferred to illustrate our invention and then r a show the combinations of these which best carry out our invention. The forms illustrated in Figs. 14: are described and claimed in a copending application for a center liner and folder filed by Joseph C. Hawley for folder and liner for shirt centers, filed January 27, 1913, Ser. No. 744,298, and are described at more length in said application. 1 The machineconstruction withwhich our invention is shown, may be of any form and here comprises a table 16 above which is placed presser foot 17 and through which needles 18, 19, 20 and 21 (Fig. 11) operate at convenient points. We have shown four needles, in the positions indicated, as representative of any required or desired number or arrangement of needles for the several lines of stitching to be made, whether these lines of stitching be decorative or be required to unite the fabrics.

We will briefly describe the construction of Figs. 1, 2 and 3' first. In order that the center lining mechanism may be properly supported in front of the needles, we mount it upon the table 16 by means of any suitable bracket having base 22, end 23, top 24 and rearwardly extending support 25.

In this way a lining device 26 is shown as supported at an angle, so that the lined center, comes out of the folder at 27 and may be flattened as at '28, in Figs. 10 and 12, where the shirt is also fedto the machine.

The center includes the outer casing 29 slotted at 30, to permit access to the fabric fed, having under sides 31 joined to the upper side by curved edges 32. The outer as well as the inner sides of this folder are preferably tapered quite appreciably, the greater part at least of the distance to the front, to, say, point 33, as best seen in Fig. 6.

An inner casing of nearly the same shape provides a passage way 34 between the easings of nearly uniform depth, measured perpendicularly across the passage. Because of the taper, the strip of fabric being-folded does not have its edges in contact where it enters at the rear end while these edges are designed, in the illustrations, to overlap at the forward or delivery end to any desired extent andat any desired location laterally. The casings are shown as united at the rear as at 35. The passage may be made con tinuous perimetrically at the lower or innerend of my device as at 34,s0 that the edges of the cloth 36, 37 forming the shirt center, may not only meet but there pass atany designed point 38, (Fig. 3) in the folder width, with the resultthat the fabric edges are completely closed and overlap, so that a seam may be formed through them by a needle appropriately placed.

The inner member is made hollow throughout its length to provide passage and guide 39 for the fabric 40 of a lining for the center.

The lower part 39 of passage 39, as well as the lower parts illustrated of the passages 34 is shown as transversely curved in this form, the curved form providing additional width for the lining to fill out the center to its full interior width.

Access to the lining is had through a slot 41 in the wall 42, forming at the same time the lower wall of the passage 34 and the upper wall of the passage 39 throughout the major part of the length of this passage. The passage may easily be found by means of extension 43 and the lining may thus be readily started within the passage. A stiff lining will itself perform a spreading function within the center. This spreading may also be performed by wings 47', 47 forming, in this case, parts of plate 47 but satisfied by any means'of supporting spreading edges of the plate.

The second form corresponds generally with the first, but lacks the bowing for ourvature of the delivery end as will be seen from the Fig. 2. The lining device 26 is intended to be supported similarly to the first form. The upper part of its outer casing 29 is the same as that of the first form, but the under side 31 joined thereto at 32 is substantially straight throughout its length, as is the lining passage 39.

We superimpose a lined center, andthe edge of a shirt at the front opening to which it is to be applied, and illustrate a few of the various ways in which this can be done.

Our invention relates to the combinations formed between the folder for the lined strip and the hemmer, whereby the products of these two are furnished to the machine in certain relations, hereinafter more specifically indicated. In some forms we purpose interlapping the shirt edge and folded strip, whether the. edge be hemmed or not, while in other forms the fabrics are merely superimposed.

Both edges of the strip are folded within the passage 34 or. 34'. The passage turns downwardly (see Fig. 8) and then inwardly, turning the edges of the passage toward each other. One is shown as terminating at 44, near the delivery end, just after the turn 32 has been made at 45 and reversely turning it at 46. By means of division plate 50 and this inturned edge the folder passage 48 is formed and the edge 37 is folded inwardly preferably in superimposed position with respect to the inward turn of the edge 36 of the center, leaving a space 49 for the edge of the shirt. The shirt 51 and center with the lining 40, are thus fed together to the sewing machine with the right side of the shirt upand the skirt of the shirt ahead of the neck of the shirt, 1'. 6., with the skirt farthest froni the observer in Fig.9. In this case the shirt edge 52.need not be hemmed as it is finished by the two folded edges 3.6 and 37. The form of one of the edges 32- .of the vouter casing 29 is unchanged. The under part at 31 is more flat relatively than in Fig. 3 and a somewhat dilferent form of terminal for the lining passage is shown at 39 I In Figs. 9 9 10, 11 and 11 we pass its inclosed lining to the machine superimposed upon the hemmed edge 52 of the sh-irtfil without interlapping of its edges with the folded edge of the strip. An entirely 86pm rate body fabric hemmer is used.

e prefer to aline the outer overlapping dg of the center and the hem of h Shif placing the edge of the center near the edge of the shirt as shown.

In Fig. 11 we show a combination of the same folder with a different kind of hemming attachment giving an additional turn to the shirt edge, producing the structure shown in Fig. 9

In another form of our invention (shown.

in Figs. 13 and Hand, in modified form, in Fig. 14) we open the lower part of the discharge end of the folder, to any extent desired, as is, indeed,-true of Figs. 58, but with the difference that the opening is made to face in an opposite direction. We thus lead out one edge, aS 36, of the overlapping edges, guiding it positively between the outer wall 55 and the inner wall 55 of this relatively flared under part, and extending the adjoining under edge of the lower outer casing member 31 as at 56 to carry the other overlapping edge 37 of the fabric. The parts 29 are modified in Fig. 13 and 29 in Fig. 14 to give a larger curvature at 32 and 32 than at the edge 32, 32 and the passages 34 34 are correspondingly modified. This reverse overlap gives us room to guide the shirtedge within the edge 36 and between it and the edge 37, i. 6., entering from right to left, as distinguished from the left to right entering movement of the shirt edge in the structure of Figs. 5-8, and makes the shirt and the center each cover the raw edge of the other, interlapping each within the other.

As the body of the shirt preferably occupics the same position in this combination as in the combination of Figs. 58 and 9 it is necessary to hem the edge of the shirt in order that it may terminate at the left. This is done by a hemmer attached preferably to the extension 56 as at 57 and turned around the edges of the parts 55 and 55 to form the entering shirt guide 58. This forms the interlapped fold shown diagrammatically in Fig. 9.

The edges 59, 60 of the wall extensions 55, 55 are so formed as to clear any opening easily be extended sufficiently to give full room for the edge 36.

, Fig. 13 is shown as adapted tot-he form of folder shown in Fig. 3, while Figs. 4, 1.4 and 14 are adapted to that shown in Fig. 4.

In the form shown in Figs. 4 and 14317.2 7 provide additional lining by cutting away the inner folder wall at its. edges, asat 63,

near the delivery end, continuing the top and bottom plate like portions; 6% and 615, preferably to the end. of the folder. The outer casings 29 'in Fig. 14 and Fig. 4* connect with different edge contours indicated at 32 and 32 in Fig. 14 and at 3:25 in Fig. 4. The under side of the outer ing-is'al-so shown as different in Fig. 14 at 31*, and the lower part of the passage at 39' in Fig. P" is shown as continuous, corrc sponding in this particular with that of F ig.'3.

The sections are taken near the deli-very end where the edges of the tube forming the lining guide have been removed leaving the lining'passage openat the edges 68 and 69, the remainder of the tube being represented by plates only as a result, upon the delivery side of the section and by a tube slightly wider than would otherwise be permissible, providing for a wider passage in that part of the tube toward the rear from the section. 1

In the form, Fig. 14*, we have illustrated an application the combination of a folder with a double turned hemmer which is obviously applicable equally well to the form shown in Figs. 13. and 14:. This double turned hem in the garment is not ordinarily required, perhaps not usually desired,where the raw edge can be otherwise protected, as in Fig. 9.

In Fig. 14* we have shown the extra turning of the garment edge as accomplished by means of a bend 70 in the continuation of the overlapping edge of the outer center guide wall and extending one of the inner walls or platesas at 71.

It will be evident that the lateral opening of one side of the center guide need not be limited to the comparatively short length shown in Fig. 12 but'can extend through as much-of the lengthof the device as may be desired, in view of the requirements of individual uses or the preferences of different designers.

In Figs. 11 and 11 we show sections illustrating the superposition of a folded center with a lining and a shirt edge folded once, in Fig. 11, by a hemmer 72, and twice in Fig.

11 by a hemmer 7 3, the general arrangement of the parts being shown in Fig. 10. The result is shoWn in Figs. 9? and 9 Having thus described our invention, what We claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. In a device of the character stated, a strip folder, open laterally at its delivery end, a guide for lining therein and a hernmer for the edge of a garment entering the opening in said first mentioned folder and interlapping the edge of the garment with the edge of the strip.

2. In a device of the character stated, a strip folder adapted to fold both edges of the strip and having the walls of the passages for the two edges of the strip overlapping at the delivery end, a lining guide within the folder and a guide for a fabric adapted to deliver the edge of the fabric between the overlapping edges of the strip.

3. In a device of the character stated, a strip folder for both edges of a strip, a lin ing guide Within the strip folder and a hornmer for a fabric delivering the turned edge of the fabric between one folded edge of the strip and the lining.

4. In a device of the character stated, a

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents strip folder adapted to fold both edges of a strip and having the walls forming the passsages for the two edges of the strip overlapping, a linlng guide Within the folder and a hemmer for a fabric turning the edge of and placing the hem directly in line vertically with the outer of the folded portions of the strip.

5. In a device of the character stated, a strip folder adapted to fold both edges of a strip and having the walls forming the passages for the two edges of the strip overlapping, a lining guide within the folder and a hemmer for a fabric turning the edge of the fabric so that it faces in the salnesdirection as the inner edge of the folded strip and placing it between the outer and inner overlapping edges of the folded strip.

JOSEPH C. HAWVLEY. lVILLIAM STEELL JACKSON.

Witnesses to HaWley signature:

MARY E. REUTTER, CATI-IARINE HAWLEY.

Witnesses to Jackson signature:

SALLIE J. BOGAN, Josnrn B. BOGAN.

Washington, D. C.

Images