US1028113A - Coat. - Google Patents

Description

I. HBRSHBERG.

GOAT,

APPLICATION FILED .TAN.Z8. 1910.

1,028,113. .Patented June 4,1912.

ISAAC HESHBERG', 0F ROCHESTER, NEVI YORK.

COAT.

Specification :if-Letters Patent.

ratenteuaune a, rois.

Application led January 28, 1910. Serial No. 540,685.

'To all whomz't may concern:

Be it known that I, ISAAC HERSHBERG, a citizen of the United States, and resident of Rochester, in the county of Monroe and State of New York, have invented certainl new andr useful Improvements in Coats, of which the following is a specification.

The object of my invention is to produce a coat or overcoat having a collar which ma be worn in several positions, and which shall setand fit properly in each of' such positions, and be readily convertible from one to the other.

More particularly, the object of the invention is to produce a coat of the charact'e-r just referred to in which the collar may 4be used either as a roll collar, a niilitaryco'l'l" lar, or in turned-up position, while in each arrangement of t-he'collar the coat presents an agreeable appearance not substantially different from standard forms ofv garments aow in use..

The construction by which I secure the above ends comprises particularly the` use of stiffening material and other devices vin connection with the coa-t collar, in such a manner as to determine the lines of folding of the collar, when in its several positions.

The invention also embraces a peculiar arrangement of the collar and the lapels of the coat, which will he hereinafter described.

In the accompanying drawings, which illustrate the preferred embodiment of my invention: Figure 1 is an inside view or front elevation of the upper portion of a coat or overcoat provided wit-h my collar; Fig. 2 is a transverse section on the line -A 'of Fig. 1 on an enlarged scale; Fig. 3 is a front elevation of the coat of Fig. 1, showing the collar in roll form; Fig. 4 is a similar view, showing the collar in military form; and Fig. 5 is a perspective View,

showing the collar turned up.

In the illust-rated embodiment of my invention the coat comprises abody portion 1, to which is secured, in .the usual manner, a collar comprising-a turn-down portion 2 and a stand 3, which in general forni is, substantially like those in common use. The

' collar has two folding lines 4 and 5, respectirely, which are indicated in broken lines inFig. 1. The folding line 4 is the line upon which the collar is folded when in roll form, as in Fig. 3, this folding line being,

, as usual, a continuation of the folding lines of the lapels 9 of the coat. The second or outer folding line 5 is the line upon which the collar is folded when in military forni, as in Fig. 4. At the back of the collar, this folding line substantially coincides with the folding line 4, so that the height of the collarin either ofthe two positions referred to is the same at the back, but toward the forward ends of the collar the two folding lines diverge, so that the collar, when in military form, stands higher in front than when in roll form.

It is essential to the proper set of the collar in the two positions above referred to, that Aitbecompelled to fold on the appropriv"ate lines when in such positions, and an essential feat-ure of my invention consists in the devices for causing the folds to occur at these lines. To this end I' provide the turndown portion 2 of the collar with stiffeningl material having the form shown in dotted lines in Fig. 1, and indicated by the reference number G. The portion of the collar so stitt'ened terminates, at its inner edge, along the folding line 5. The material of the collar is thus compelled to fold inside of the stitfened portion, or at its inner edge, so

that when the collar is in military form, as in Fig. 4, the fold is strictly defined, and the collar is held firmly in proper form.

Then the collar is in roll form, `as in Fig. 3,'it is necessary that more of the materia-l be turned down than in the case of a military collar, and the fold therefore occui's at the folding line 4. Since the stifteniiig material 6 does not determine this latter folding line, means are desirable or necessary for this purpose, and to this end I- employ means which have the double function of determining the position of this fold and of securing the front of the collar when it isI in turnec -up lposition or in military form. Upon one forward extremity of the collar I sew a strap 7, and the width of this strap is such that it extends from-the folding line 5 to the folding line 4. This strap serves to sti'ft'en the material between the folding lines at the end of the collar, so as to prevent the fold 4 from occurring outside of its proper position. On the opposite end of the ycollar is a. button 8 to engage a button-liole in the front end of the strap 7, and this button is located close to the folding lint` 4, as shown in Fig. 1, so as to determine the Aposition of the fold, and prevent the material from folding between the :tolding lines.

Vhen the collar 'is in turn-up position, as in Fig. 5, or in military form, as in Fig. 4, the strap 7 is secured to the button S, and holds the inner portion of the collar closed in front. When the collar is in military forni the strap 7 ,f in addition to preventinor the fold from occurring between the folding lines as hereinbefore described, acts further to define the fold and hold the collar in shape owing to the fact that the strap is secured firmly to one side of the collar, so that, owing to the stitness of the strap, its upper edge which lies at the fold and across the juncture of the ends of the collar holds these ends lirmly and evenly in the required position.

The lapels 9 of the coat are not substantially diiierent in form from the usual lapels.- The usual notch between the collar and the lapels is, however, replaced by a straight cut l0, and this cut extends inwardly to a pointI inside of the outer folding line and nearly to the inner folding line,

' so that when the collar is in military form the lapels are not drawn out of their proper position. lVith the collar in roll vform, the lapels are rolled over with the collar, and lie fiat against the front of the coat. To secure them in their proper position relative to the forward edges of the collar, securing means are attached to the lapels ofthe collar, as in Fig. l, hooks and eyes 11 being convenient for this purpose. By using a hook on one end of the collar, and an eye on the other end, as shown in Fig. 1, these same means may be adapted also to secure the ends of the outer fold of the collar together when the collar is turned up, as in Fig. 5, or in military form, as in Fig. 4f. When the collar-is in either military position or turned-up position the lapels may be folded across the breast and the lett-hand lapel buttoned down, asin Fig. et.

AAny ordinary or suitable stieneing material may be used in the collar, and the degree to which the collar is stiHened depends upon the nature of the fabric of the garment. In 2 I have illustrated, in cross section and in a diagrammatic manner, a construction for the collar-in which are two outer layers of fabric 12, between which is a layer of canvas 13 extending entirely across the collar. The stiened portion 6 is provided with a band of additional stiliening material, such as hair cloth, and the entire turn-down portion of the collar is provided in addition with an extra thick ness of canvas.

I claimz-- A collar comprising a stand and a leaf separated by a break-line, said leaf having a relatively stii outer. portion and a relatively exible inner portionwhereby 'a line of demarcation is produced, along the inner edge ofthe relatively stift' portion, along which line said leaf is adapted to fold back upon itself to transform the collar from a normal collar into a military collar having a stili outer fold and a relatively flexible inner fold.

ISAAC HERSHBERG.

Witnesses: y

FARNUM F. Donsnr, D. GURNEE.

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