TWI766188B - Use of apple leaf extract as ultraviolet absorber and cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention provides the use of an apple leaf extract as an ultraviolet absorber and a cosmetic composition. The apple leaf extract is extracted from the apple genus, which is rich in polyphenolic compounds and has the ability to absorb ultraviolet rays in the ultraviolet UVB band. As a natural ultraviolet absorber, the present invention further applies the apple leaf extract to a cosmetic composition to provide its sunscreen function, wherein the apple plant is Taiwan apple.

Description

Use of apple leaf extract as ultraviolet absorber and cosmetic composition

The present invention relates to apple leaf extract and its use as ultraviolet absorber and cosmetic.

In recent years, the sunscreen market has been on a steady upward trend. Nowadays, consumers do not need too many advertisements and propaganda to guide consumption when buying sunscreens. In the past, sunscreens were only needed for outdoor activities or skin care in spring and summer. Today, many consumers have become In the ingredients of sunscreen products, it uses chemical molecular characteristics to absorb the energy of ultraviolet rays, which belongs to chemical sunscreen. Among them, there are many active ingredients of chemical sunscreen, such as p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) and its extenders can absorb ultraviolet rays effectively. Block UVB and prevent skin from sunburn, cinnamate (cinnamate), anthranilates (Anthranilates) and salicylic acid are also used to block UVB, octyl salicylate (Octyl Salicylate) is another widely used The compounds used, but it is worth noting that these are almost all synthetic, most are irritating and sensitive and provide only limited sun protection.

It is generally believed that natural cosmetics are healthier and safer. Therefore, natural cosmetics and skin care products are increasingly favored by consumers and have great potential for market development in the future. However, how to find out the efficacy and production advantages, and provide natural and healthy products that meet the needs of consumers. Sunscreen materials have become one of the major directions in the development of biotech products at home and abroad.

Secondary metabolites of plants such as phenolic compounds, including phenolic acids, procyanidins (Proanthocyanidins), flavonoids and tannins, not only have antioxidant effects, but also have effects on UV protection. UV rays in sunlight can cause skin photoaging, sunburn, inflammation and skin cancer. , Skin photoaging will make the skin wrinkle, reduce skin elasticity, actinize the stratum corneum, make the stratum corneum hard and the skin color dark yellow. Among them, the oils or extracts extracted from natural plants can absorb and protect from ultraviolet rays. However, the content of phenolic compounds obtained by different natural plants and extraction methods will be different, and their ability to absorb ultraviolet rays is also different. Therefore, the choice of natural plants and extraction methods has gradually become a an important subject.

Taiwan apple ( Malus doumeri ), also known as Taiwan Ringo and Shili, is a species of the Rosaceae apple genus, growing at an altitude of 1,000 to 2,000 meters, generally in broad-leaved forests and hillside mixed forests; "China "Materia Medica" records that its fruit functions are to eliminate food stagnation, regulate qi and invigorate the spleen, and treat stagnation of food accumulation, abdominal distention, and diarrhea. The phenolic components extracted from the leaves can inhibit the activities of elastase, matrix metalloproteinase-I (MMP-I) and tyrosinase, which have skin whitening and anti-aging effects.

In view of the lack of prior art, the inventor of the present application hopes to provide a safe and healthy natural sunscreen material, which can be used in cosmetic compositions to achieve ultraviolet absorption and sunscreen effects.

One object of the present invention is to provide a preparation of an apple leaf extract, wherein the apple leaf extract has a strong absorption capacity in the UVB band, has a rich total polyphenol content, is a natural ultraviolet absorber, and has auxiliary sun protection potential, Wherein the apple leaf extract is extracted from the apple genus.

To achieve the aforementioned purpose, the apple leaf extract is obtained by extracting the dried leaves of the genus Malus with an extraction solvent, the extraction solvent comprising ethanol, water or ethyl acetate.

To achieve the aforementioned purpose, the apple leaf extract is dissolved by a dissolving solvent, and the dissolving solvent is selected from the group consisting of glycerol, pentylene glycol, ethanol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol. All are commonly used in cosmetics and moisturizing ingredients.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition containing the apple leaf extract, wherein the apple leaf extract is extracted from the apple genus, which has ultraviolet absorption and sunscreen effects.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition comprising: apple leaf extract, physical sunscreen agent, chemical sunscreen agent, oil phase base, at least one of higher fatty acid and/or higher fatty alcohol lipid, emulsifier, Preservatives, active ingredients, water-soluble polymer glue, humectants, antioxidants and water, wherein the apple leaf extract is extracted from apple plants.

In order to achieve the aforementioned purpose, the apple plant is Taiwan apple.

In order to achieve the aforementioned purpose, the cosmetic composition comprises 0.01-10wt% apple leaf extract, 0-20wt% physical sunscreen agent, 0-10wt% chemical sunscreen agent, 5-40wt% oil phase base, 1-20wt% of at least one of higher fatty acids and/or higher fatty alcohol lipids, 1-20wt% of emulsifier, 0.1-1wt% of preservatives, 0-20wt% of active ingredients, 0-5wt% of high water solubility Molecular glue, 0-30wt% humectant and 0-5wt% antioxidant.

In order to achieve the aforementioned purpose, the preferred content of the physical sunscreen agent is 4-15wt%; wherein, the preferred content of the chemical sunscreen agent is in the range of 0.5-7wt%.

In order to achieve the aforementioned purpose, the cosmetic composition comprises the following dosage forms: liquid, water, emulsion, ointment, solid, liquid foundation, foundation cream, powder, powder, gel, lotion, cream, Cream, roll-on, spray or dressing.

In order to achieve the aforementioned purpose, the chemical sunscreen agent comprises p-aminobenzoic acid esters and derivatives thereof, salicylic acid and derivatives thereof, cinnamate esters, benzophenone compounds, triazine compounds, benzotriazoles. azoles, camphor derivatives, anthranilates, para-aminobenzoates, dibenzoylmethanes, siloxane derivatives, anthranilates or combinations thereof.

To achieve the aforementioned objects, the physical sunscreen agent comprises titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, kaolin, calcium carbonate, talc, mica, a complex of mica and metal oxides, or a combination thereof.

The advantage of the present invention is to provide a safe and healthy natural sunscreen material, which can be used in cosmetic compositions to achieve ultraviolet absorption and sunscreen effects.

Figures 1A and 1B are the extraction methods of Taiwan apple leaf extract; Figure 2 is the ultraviolet absorption value of Taiwan apple leaf extract; Figure 3 is the in vitro UVB SPF determination of sunscreen with 1% Taiwan apple leaf extract Figure; Figure 4 is the ultraviolet absorption value of Taiwan apple leaf and Hubei Begonia leaf extracts.

All technical and scientific terms described in this specification, unless otherwise defined, have meanings that can be commonly understood by those with ordinary knowledge in the field; the materials used in the present invention, unless otherwise specified, are all from the market Sell readily available materials.

The embodiments described below are only to illustrate the technical idea and characteristics of the present invention, and the purpose is to enable those skilled in the art to understand the content of the present invention and implement it accordingly. It can be used to limit the patent scope of the present invention, that is, all equivalent changes or modifications made in accordance with the spirit disclosed in the present invention should still be covered within the patent scope of the present invention.

According to an embodiment of the present invention, the Taiwan apple leaf extract is extracted by the following method: as shown in FIG. 1A , the Taiwan apple fresh leaves are dried and ground into fine powder, and the drying includes freeze-vacuum drying or drying at 60°C, The dried fine powder is extracted by reflux with an extraction solvent (95% ethanol is used in this embodiment), and the ethanol is removed after being concentrated and dried under reduced pressure to obtain a total ethanol extract. For example, using ethyl acetate) to carry out liquid-liquid separation and extraction to obtain an ethyl acetate extract, the ethyl acetate extract is concentrated under reduced pressure to remove the solvent to obtain extract A and extract B, wherein, the extraction solvent comprises ethanol, water Or ethyl acetate, as shown in Figure 1B, the fresh leaves of Taiwan apple are ground into fine powder after drying, the drying includes freeze-vacuum drying or drying at 60°C, and the dried fine powder is extracted with solvent (this example uses ethyl acetate). Ester) is subjected to reflux extraction, concentrated and dried under reduced pressure, and then the ethyl acetate is removed to obtain extract C and extract D, wherein the extraction solvent comprises ethanol, water or ethyl acetate.

Embodiment 1. Determination of ultraviolet absorption capacity

The ultraviolet absorption capacity of extracts A-D was measured with a spectrophotometer. The extracts A-D were dissolved in ethanol, and the concentration was adjusted to 200ppm. The ultraviolet absorption effect was tested in the ultraviolet absorption spectrum band of 250-400nm. -400nm belongs to UVA band.

From the experimental results in Figure 2, it can be seen that extracts A, B, C, and D have absorption peaks in the UVB band, and the absorbance values of extracts A and B at 285nm are above 3.8, and the UVB absorption capacity is strong. It is estimated that there is an auxiliary sunscreen efficacy potential.

Embodiment two, extraction yield and polyphenol total content determination

In order to further confirm the extraction yield and total polyphenol content of extract A and extract B, the total polyphenol content (expressed as gallic acid equivalent) in the extract was determined by Folin-Ciocalteu colorimetric method.

According to the results of the yield of Taiwan apple leaf extract and the total polyphenol content, the yield of extract A reached 25%, the yield of extract B reached 11%, and the total polyphenol content of extract A and extract B The contents are 418.4±14.3mg GAE g ^-1 and 430±17.5mg GAE g ^-1 respectively. The yield of extract A is high and the total content of polyphenols is also quite high, and its ultraviolet absorbing ability is strong, so the subsequent examples are based on Extract A was implemented.

Embodiment 3. Solubility test

Dissolve 0.01g of the extract in 1ml of solvent for compatibility test. Common solvents used in cosmetics include aqueous solvents: aloe vera extract, glycerin, pentylene glycol, ethanol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and propylene glycol; oily solvents: Wheat Germ Oil, Premium Sweet Almond Oil, Golden Jojoba Oil, Silicon Oil and Medium Chain Triglycerides.

According to the solubility test results of Taiwan apple leaf extract in Table 2, it is known that Taiwan apple leaves The leaf extract can be dissolved in a solvent containing ethanol and polyols such as glycerol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and propylene glycol, among which polyols are often used as moisturizing ingredients in cosmetics.

Embodiment 4. Determination of sun protection factor

Dissolve 0.01 g of the extract A in 1 ml of a dissolving solvent, wherein the dissolving solvent is any one or a mixture of glycerol, pentylene glycol, ethanol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and propylene glycol, and test its sun protection factor, wherein , take 0.11g of the sample and evenly spread it on 3M Transpore TM Tape 55cm ² which simulates human skin, and use the Ultraviolet Transmittance Analyzer-SPF290S (Optometrics, USA) with a 125-watt xenon arc lamp to test the SPF of the sample. (Sun Protection Factor) value.

According to the experimental results of the sun protection factor of Taiwan apple leaf extract dissolved in the dissolving solvent in Table 3, it is known that: 0.01g of the extract was dissolved in 0.6ml of 50% glycerol/pentanediol and 0.4ml of ethanol to measure SPF 6.48; The extract was dissolved in 0.6ml 50% glycerol/pentanediol and 0.3ml ethanol plus 0.1g carbopol, measured SPF 4.48, adding carbopol can increase the consistency, but lead to lower SPF; substituted with 0.3ml dipropylene glycol and 0.1ml propylene glycol Slightly irritating ethanol, plus 0.6ml 50% glycerol/pentanediol, measured SPF 3.37, the result did not increase SPF; 0.7ml 50% glycerol/pentanediol plus 0.1ml propylene glycol, 0.1ml dipropylene glycol Alcohol and 0.1ml pentanediol, measured SPF 2.93; using a single solvent of 1ml butanediol, measured SPF 2.87, 1ml dipropylene glycol, the SPF value was increased to SPF 7.93, the results show that only a trace amount of extract is needed. Can contribute to sun protection.

Embodiment 5, the preparation of sunscreen

Prepare a sunscreen containing Taiwan apple leaf extract, the formula is shown in Table 4 sunscreen formulation ratio, first heat polyethylene glycol (PEG 2000) to dissolve, and then mix other oil products evenly after cooling, extract After the mixture is mixed with the water phase, the water phase and the oil phase are mixed together, using emulsification It was emulsified into a cream by machine, and the finished product was the preparation of extract sunscreen (experimental group), and the control group was a sunscreen formula without extract. Titanium dioxide, aqueous solvents glycerol, pentylene glycol and butylene glycol dissolve the extract and have skin moisturizing and antibacterial properties.

Example 6. In vitro sunscreen test of sunscreen

The prepared sunscreen was tested in vitro. According to the UV protection ability of the sunscreen with 1% Taiwan apple extract added in Table 5 and the results shown in Figure 2, the SPF value of the sunscreen with Taiwan apple leaf extract increased from 22.64±6.74 to 34.59±1.91, the critical wavelength (critical wavelength) was 377.2±0.32nm, the curve area increased from 111.43±11.2 to 127.5±2.68, but the UVA/UVB ratio decreased from 0.545±0.02 to 0.464±0.01, and the Boots star was 2.

SPF sun protection factor (Sun Protection Factor) is the ratio of the time required for the skin to produce redness under the irradiation of artificial or natural light sources after applying sunscreen, and the time required when no sunscreen is applied. The sunscreen efficacy coefficient of the product is evaluated, mainly for the UVB band. The larger the SPF value, the stronger the ability to defend against UVB damage to the skin; the curve area is the wavelength range covered by sunscreens; the critical wavelength (critical wavelength, λc) refers to the critical value covering 90% of the integral area under the wavelength range (290nm-400nm), which can represent the breadth of the UVA protection bandwidth. According to the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regulations, the critical wavelength of sunscreen products When >370nm, the UVA protection effect can be marked; UVA/UVB Ratio refers to the ratio of the UVA protection effect to the UVB protection effect. /UVB Ratio gives a level of division, Boots star 2 is a moderate level.

According to the results of Example 6 of the present invention, the sunscreen of Taiwan apple leaf extract The SPF value has increased by 52.8%, mainly because the extract has strong absorption ability in the UVB band, which increases the sunscreen ability of the sunscreen in the UVB band, and the Curve area is also better than the control group. SPF increase has a positive effect. Therefore, cosmetics that use an appropriate amount of sunscreen ingredients and then add Taiwan apple leaf extract can achieve better UV protection effect, and it can also reduce the use of chemical sunscreens and physical sunscreens, reducing sunscreens. toxicity and side effects.

Embodiment 7. Comparison of ultraviolet absorption effect

In order to further confirm that the Taiwan apple leaf extract of the apple genus has a better ultraviolet protection effect, the Taiwan apple ( Malus doumeri ) leaf extract and the apple plant Hubei Begonia ( Malus hupehensis ) leaf extract were subjected to the ultraviolet absorption effect. Compare.

Among them, the dried fine powder of Taiwan apple leaves and Hubei Begonia leaves were refluxed with 95% ethanol, and the ethanol was removed after being concentrated and dried under reduced pressure to obtain the total ethanol extract. After the total ethanol extract was suspended in water, the liquid- Liquid separation and extraction, the ethyl acetate extract is concentrated under reduced pressure to remove the solvent to obtain its extract, the extract is dissolved in ethanol, the concentration is adjusted to 200ppm, and the test is carried out in the ultraviolet absorption spectrum band of 250-400nm, as shown in Figure 3 , Taiwan apple leaf and Hubei Begonia leaf extract both have absorption peaks in the UVB band. Among them, the absorbance value of Taiwan apple leaf extract at 285nm is above 3.8, and the absorbance value of Hubei Begonia leaf extract is 2.4. It is inferred that Taiwan Apple leaf extract has better UV absorption and better sun protection potential.

The above detailed description is for the specific description of the embodiment of the present invention, but the embodiment is not used to limit the patent scope of the present invention. Any equivalent implementation or modification that does not depart from the technical spirit of the present invention shall be included in this case within the scope of the patent.

In addition, this case is not only innovative in technical ideas, but also has many of the above-mentioned effects that the conventional traditional methods cannot achieve, and fully meets the requirements of the statutory invention patent for novelty and progress. I would like to file an application according to the law, and I implore your bureau to approve this application for a patent for invention, so as to encourage inventions, and to appreciate morality.

Claims (10)

Use of an apple leaf extract for ultraviolet absorption and sun protection, wherein the apple leaf extract is extracted from a Malus ( Malus ) plant, wherein the ultraviolet absorption refers to the ability to absorb ultraviolet rays in a UVB band; wherein the apple leaf extract It is dissolved in a mixed solvent or a dipropylene glycol, the mixed solvent is a mixture of glycerol, pentylene glycol and ethanol. The use as described in item 1 of the scope of application, wherein the plant of the genus Malus is Taiwan apple ( Malus doumeri ). The use as described in item 1 of the claimed scope, wherein the apple leaf extract is obtained by extracting dried leaves of the genus Malus with an extraction solvent, and the extraction solvent comprises ethanol, water or ethyl acetate. The use as described in item 1 of the patent application scope, wherein the ratio of the apple leaf extract to dipropylene glycol is 0.01 g: 1 ml. A skin external composition with ultraviolet absorption and sunscreen effects, which comprises an apple leaf extract and a dissolving solvent; wherein the dissolving solvent is a mixed solvent or a dipropylene glycol; wherein the mixed solvent is glycerin, glutaryl glycol A mixture of alcohol and ethanol; wherein the apple leaf extract is extracted from a plant of the genus Malus . The skin external composition according to the claim 5, wherein the skin external composition may further comprise a physical sunscreen agent, a chemical sunscreen agent, an oil phase base, a higher fatty acid and/or a higher fatty alcohol ester at least One, emulsifier, preservative, active ingredient, water-soluble polymer glue, humectant, antioxidant and water. The skin external composition as described in item 5 or 6 of the patent application scope, wherein the plant of the genus Malus ( Malus ) is Taiwan apple ( Malus doumeri ). The composition for external use on skin as described in item 5 or 6 of the claimed scope, wherein the composition for external use on skin comprises the following dosage forms: liquid, water, emulsion, ointment, solid, liquid foundation, foundation cream, powder, Powder, gel, lotion, cream, cream, roll-on, spray or dressing. The skin external composition according to item 6 of the patent application scope, wherein the skin external composition comprises 0.01-10wt% apple leaf extract, 0-20wt% physical sunscreen, 0-10wt% chemical Sunscreen agent, 5-40wt% oil phase base, 1-20wt% at least one of higher fatty acid and/or higher fatty alcohol ester, 1-20wt% emulsifier, 0.1-1wt% preservative, 0-20wt% % active ingredient, 0-5wt% water-soluble polymer glue, 0-30wt% moisturizing agent and 0-5wt% antioxidant. The skin external composition according to item 9 of the claimed scope, wherein the content of the physical sunscreen agent is 4-15wt%; wherein the content of the chemical sunscreen agent is 0.5-7wt%.

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