TW201909886A - Composition for cosmetics, and cosmetic containing said composition - Google Patents

Composition for cosmetics, and cosmetic containing said composition Download PDF

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TW201909886A
TW201909886A TW107127748A TW107127748A TW201909886A TW 201909886 A TW201909886 A TW 201909886A TW 107127748 A TW107127748 A TW 107127748A TW 107127748 A TW107127748 A TW 107127748A TW 201909886 A TW201909886 A TW 201909886A
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camellia
leaves
extract
fat
cosmetic composition
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TWI783023B (en
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松下剛
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日商Mtg股份有限公司
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
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  • Dermatology (AREA)
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Abstract

Attention is focused on a cuticle layer occurring on the surface of a camellia leaf, which has not been utilized effectively so far. The cuticle layer can be utilized effectively by using an extract produced by extracting a component constituting the cuticle layer, e.g., a wax, with a fat-soluble solvent. As a result, a composition for cosmetics can be provided, which contains a cuticle layer extract extracted from a camellia leaf with a fat-soluble solvent. Also provided is a cosmetic containing the composition for cosmetics.

Description

化妝品用組成物及摻合該組成物之化妝品Cosmetic composition and cosmetic composition incorporating the composition

本發明係有關於一種源自山茶的葉片之萃取物。更詳而言之,係有關於一種源自存在於山茶的葉片之表面的角質層之萃取物。The present invention relates to an extract derived from the leaves of camellia. More specifically, it relates to an extract derived from the stratum corneum of the surface of the leaves of Camellia.

山茶為與西班牙鼠尾草或茶梅同屬山茶屬(genus Camellia)之長綠闊葉樹,其野生種係稱日本山茶。山茶當中,伊豆諸島及利島(東京都)、伊豆(靜岡縣)、五島列島之福江島(長崎縣)、佐渡島(新潟縣)產者甚為有名。Camellia is a long-green broad-leaved tree of the genus Camellia, which belongs to the same species as Spanish sage or Chamo. Its wild species is called Japanese camellia. Among the camellia, Izu Islands and Leeshima (Tokyo), Izu (Shizuoka Prefecture), Fukue Island (Nagasaki Prefecture) of the Goto Islands, and Sado Island (Niigata Prefecture) are well-known.

山茶的種子係含油酸等油分,由此種子所得之山茶油向來係使用於髮油、食用油等。此外,亦有作為醫藥品、塗料等的原料使用。相對於此,就山茶的葉片,其落葉的灰係作為釉藥,或作為紫染之媒染劑使用,惟除此之外的用途幾乎未為人所知悉。The seed of camellia contains an oil such as oleic acid, and the camellia oil obtained from the seed is used for hair oil, edible oil, and the like. In addition, it is also used as a raw material for pharmaceuticals, paints, and the like. On the other hand, in the leaves of Camellia, the ash of the fallen leaves is used as a glaze or as a mordant for violet dyeing, but the use other than this is hardly known.

為有效利用此種山茶的葉片,有人報導其製造三號茶葉與山茶的葉片以9:1之比例混合而成的發酵茶(下稱「混合茶」),且上述混合茶可降低血清三酸甘油酯及磷脂質濃度(非專利文獻1;下稱「習知例1」)。In order to effectively utilize the leaves of this camellia, it has been reported that it produces a fermented tea (hereinafter referred to as "mixed tea") in which the leaves of the third tea and the camellia are mixed in a ratio of 9:1, and the mixed tea can lower the serum triacid. Glyceride and phospholipid concentration (Non-Patent Document 1; hereinafter referred to as "Conventional Example 1").

此外,近年來,有人報導日本山茶具有強力的抗過敏・抗發炎作用,經報導含有:作為抑制去顆粒作用之物質之鞣花酸配醣體的「Okicamelliaside」、作為抗氧化物質之槲皮素配醣體「Camellianoside」等。又,據稱山茶葉片的熬汁對消化管出血具有抑制效果,於沖繩古來便廣受飲用;有人針對由葉片所得之甲醇萃取物進行科學安全性的驗證並加以報導(茲參照非專利文獻2;下稱「習知例2」)。In addition, in recent years, it has been reported that Japanese camellia has a strong anti-allergic and anti-inflammatory effect, and it has been reported to contain: "Okicamelliaside" which is a ellagic acid glycoside which is a substance which suppresses degranulation, and quercetin which is an antioxidant substance. The glycoside "Camellianoside" and the like. In addition, it is said that the sap of the camellia leaves has an inhibitory effect on gastrointestinal bleeding, and it is widely consumed in Okinawa. The scientific and safety verification of the methanol extract obtained from the leaves is reported and reported (see Non-Patent Document 2). ; hereinafter referred to as "known example 2").

陸生植物之葉片或體幹的外側,係由水無法穿透的脂溶性化合物所形成的層覆蓋(茲參照圖1(A))。首先,葉面的最外側具有蠟單質層(蠟質層)。存在於此之前述蠟質係以結晶構造至非晶構造的各種狀態存在。The outer side of the leaf or body stem of the terrestrial plant is covered by a layer formed of a fat-soluble compound impenetrable by water (see Fig. 1(A)). First, the outermost side of the leaf surface has a waxy monolayer (waxy layer). The aforementioned waxy system existing herein exists in various states of a crystalline structure to an amorphous structure.

其次,於前述蠟質層下方,存有形成於細胞壁上且含有大量脂溶性物質的層,係稱為「角質層」。前述角質層係發揮保護陸生植物之葉片或體幹免除於風雨、乾燥、紫外線、病原菌等外部環境之作用。Next, below the waxy layer, there is a layer formed on the cell wall and containing a large amount of fat-soluble substance, which is called a "striatum layer". The keratinous layer functions to protect the leaves or body stems of terrestrial plants from the external environment such as wind and rain, dryness, ultraviolet rays, and pathogenic bacteria.

而且,前述角質層可進一步分成上部層與下部層此2層。於此,前述上部層係由全脂性物質構成,完全地角質化。相對於此,前述下部層則是以角質為主體的層,並非由全脂性物質所構成,有時細胞壁之碳水化合物纖維也會伸入其中。於此,周知角質為不飽和脂肪酸之聚合物,蠟質(於此稱為植物性蠟質)則為脂肪酸酯(茲參照非專利文獻3及4)。 [先前技術文獻] [非專利文獻]Moreover, the aforementioned stratum corneum may be further divided into two layers of an upper layer and a lower layer. Here, the upper layer is composed of a wholly-fat substance and is completely keratinized. On the other hand, the lower layer is a layer mainly composed of keratin, and is not composed of a full-fat substance, and sometimes the carbohydrate fibers of the cell wall may protrude therein. Here, the keratin is a polymer of an unsaturated fatty acid, and the wax (herein referred to as a vegetable wax) is a fatty acid ester (see Non-Patent Documents 3 and 4). [Prior Technical Literature] [Non-Patent Literature]

[非專利文獻1]https://www.pref.nagasaki.jp/e-nourin/nougi/topic/ tsubakikongou/H21-56.pdf   [非專利文獻2]日本食品科學工學會誌 第55卷第8號379頁~383頁 2008年8月[Non-Patent Document 1] https://www.pref.nagasaki.jp/e-nourin/nougi/topic/ tsubakikongou/H21-56.pdf [Non-Patent Document 2] Japanese Food Science and Technology Society, Vol. 55, No. 8 No. 379 pages - 383 pages August 2008

[非專利文獻3]https://jspp.org/hiroba/q_and_a/detail.html?id =1969   [非專利文獻4]http://www.biol.tsukuba.ac.jp/~algae/BotanyWEB/ leaf3.html[Non-Patent Document 3] https://jspp.org/hiroba/q_and_a/detail.html?id=1969 [Non-Patent Document 4] http://www.biol.tsukuba.ac.jp/~algae/BotanyWEB/ Leaf3.html

[發明所欲解決之課題][Problems to be solved by the invention]

習知例1之混合茶係將三號茶葉與山茶的葉片以9:1之比例混合所製成,源自此茶葉之熱水萃取物在具有如上述之效果方面為優良者。然而,由於此處係將山茶的葉片作為所稱「茶」之飲料的原料使用,使用於此時之萃取的溶媒便為熱水。因此,完全未有人探討以高脂溶性溶媒進行萃取者。The mixed tea of the conventional example 1 is prepared by mixing the leaves of the third tea and the leaves of the camellia in a ratio of 9:1, and the hot water extract derived from the tea leaves is excellent in the effect as described above. However, since the leaves of Camellia are used as raw materials for the so-called "tea" beverage, the solvent used for extraction at this time is hot water. Therefore, no one has ever investigated the extraction with a high fat-soluble solvent.

再者,習知例2係有關於日本山茶所含之具有抗過敏・抗發炎作用的多種配醣體者。欲由植物等萃取出具有藥理效果之化合物時,一般係使用甲醇、乙酸乙酯等與水具相溶性之有機溶媒(親水性有機溶媒)。而且,習知例2中所得之如上述具有藥理效果之化合物係以甲醇所萃取出來的萃取物所含之親水性配醣體。Further, the conventional example 2 relates to a plurality of glycoside having anti-allergic and anti-inflammatory effects contained in Japanese camellia. When a compound having a pharmacological effect is to be extracted from a plant or the like, an organic solvent (hydrophilic organic solvent) compatible with water is used, such as methanol or ethyl acetate. Further, the compound having the pharmacological effect as obtained in Conventional Example 2 is a hydrophilic glycoside contained in an extract extracted from methanol.

因此,便對山茶葉之甲醇萃取物進行安全性驗證。習知例2在驗證甲醇萃取物的安全性方面雖為優良之發明,惟其完全未考量到將山茶的葉片以高脂溶性的溶媒進行萃取來獲得萃取物。Therefore, the methanol extract of the mountain tea leaves is verified for safety. Conventional Example 2 is an excellent invention for verifying the safety of a methanol extract, but it is not considered at all that the leaves of Camellia sinensis are extracted with a solvent having a high fat solubility to obtain an extract.

亦即,迄今,對於山茶的葉片所含之親水性成分雖已達其利用,但對於亦屬山茶葉之特徵的形成於葉片表面之角質層的構成成分,幾乎未有人加以研究,且其用途亦幾乎未為人所知悉,因此,存有尚無法達到山茶葉此種天然原料之充分有效利用的問題。That is to say, the hydrophilic components contained in the leaves of camellia have been utilized to date, but the composition of the stratum corneum formed on the surface of the leaves, which is also characteristic of mountain tea leaves, has hardly been studied and its use has been used. It is hardly known, so there is a problem that it is impossible to achieve the full and effective use of such natural materials as mountain tea.

本發明係有鑑於如上述之實情而完成者,係著眼於迄今未經有效利用之存在於山茶的葉片之表面的角質層,而以透過使用將構成前述角質層之蠟質等成分以脂溶性溶媒進行萃取而得的萃取物,來充分有效利用山茶的葉片為目的。 [解決課題之手段]The present invention has been made in view of the above-mentioned facts, and has focused on the stratum corneum which is present on the surface of the leaves of camellia which has not been effectively utilized, and which is fat-soluble by the use of components such as waxes constituting the stratum corneum. The extract obtained by extracting the solvent is used for the purpose of fully utilizing the leaves of the camellia. [Means for solving the problem]

本發明之發明人等在如上述之狀況下致力進行研究,發現出由山茶的葉片之角質層所得之萃取物(以下有稱為「山茶葉蠟質」)所具有的作用,而完成本發明。The inventors of the present invention have made efforts to carry out research as described above, and have found out that the extract obtained from the stratum corneum of the leaves of camellia (hereinafter referred to as "bean tea wax") has the effect of completing the present invention. .

亦即,本發明一形態為一種化妝品用組成物,其係包含將山茶的葉片以脂溶性溶媒進行萃取而得的角質層萃取物。於此,前述山茶較佳為選自由原生種及其園藝品種所成群組之任一者。That is, one aspect of the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising a stratum corneum extract obtained by extracting leaves of camellia with a fat-soluble solvent. Here, the camellia is preferably selected from the group consisting of a native species and a horticultural variety thereof.

就前述原生種而言,較佳為選自由日本山茶(Camellia japonica)、白雪山茶(Camellia japonica)及屋久島山茶(Camellia japonica var. macrocarpa)所成群組之任一者。The above-mentioned native species is preferably selected from the group consisting of Camellia japonica, Camellia japonica, and Camellia japonica var. macrocarpa.

就前述園藝品種而言,較佳為選自由Camellia japonica ‘Kamo-hon-nami’(加茂本阿彌)、Camellia japonica ‘Tarokaja’(太郎冠者)、Camellia japonica ‘Tama-no-ura’ (玉之浦)、Camellia japonica ‘Tama-gasumi’(玉霞)、Camellia japonica ‘Moshio’(藻汐)、Camellia japonica ‘Ezonishiki’ (蝦夷錦)、Camellia japonica ‘Soushiarai’(草紙洗)、Camellia japonica ‘Bokuhan’(卜伴)、Camellia japonica ‘Hishi-karaito’(菱唐糸)、及Camellia japonica ‘Murage’(村下)所成群組之任一者。又,前述山茶的葉片較佳為生的葉片或經自然乾燥的葉片之任一者。In the case of the aforementioned horticultural variety, it is preferably selected from the group consisting of Camellia japonica 'Kamo-hon-nami', Camellia japonica 'Tarokaja', and Camellia japonica 'Tama-no-ura' , Camellia japonica 'Tama-gasumi' (Yu Xia), Camellia japonica 'Moshio' (algae), Camellia japonica 'Ezonishiki' (Shrimp brocade), Camellia japonica 'Soushiarai' (grass wash), Camellia japonica 'Bokuhan' ), Camellia japonica 'Hishi-karaito' (Ling Tang), and Camellia japonica 'Murage' (Mr. Murakami). Further, the leaves of the camellia are preferably either raw leaves or naturally dried leaves.

前述脂溶性溶媒為烴系溶劑,較佳為選自由正己烷、環己烷、異己烷、甲基環己烷、正戊烷、異辛烷、角鯊烷、流動石蠟所成群組之任一種溶劑,更佳為正己烷。又,前述角質層萃取物較佳為將以前述脂溶性溶媒萃取而得的萃取物予以濃縮者。The fat-soluble solvent is a hydrocarbon solvent, and is preferably selected from the group consisting of n-hexane, cyclohexane, isohexane, methylcyclohexane, n-pentane, isooctane, squalane, and liquid paraffin. A solvent is more preferably n-hexane. Moreover, it is preferable that the extract of the keratinous layer is concentrated by extracting the extract obtained by extracting the above-mentioned fat-soluble solvent.

本發明另一形態為一種化妝品,其係以既定量摻混上述化妝品用組成物。於此,前述化妝品較佳為選自由潤膚水、乳液、乳霜、洗臉用泡沫、潔面泡沫劑、凝膠、髮露、髮膠、髮霜、及唇膏所成群組之任一種化妝品。Another aspect of the present invention is a cosmetic which is capable of blending the above-mentioned cosmetic composition in a quantitative manner. Here, the cosmetic is preferably any one selected from the group consisting of lotions, lotions, creams, face foams, facial cleansers, gels, hair gels, hair gels, hair creams, and lipsticks.

前述既定的量,較佳的是,將摻有前述組成物之化妝品的重量設為100%時,為0.005~5重量%的範圍內。The predetermined amount is preferably in the range of 0.005 to 5% by weight when the weight of the cosmetic containing the composition is 100%.

又,本發明又一形態為一種食品用組成物,其係包含將山茶的葉片以脂溶性溶媒進行萃取而得的角質層萃取物。於此,前述山茶較佳為選自由原生種或其園藝品種所成群組之任一者。Furthermore, another aspect of the present invention provides a food composition comprising a cuticle extract obtained by extracting leaves of camellia with a fat-soluble solvent. Here, the camellia is preferably selected from the group consisting of a native species or a horticultural variety thereof.

就前述原生種、園藝品種及前述山茶的葉片而言,較佳為如上述者。又,就前述脂溶性溶劑而言,亦較佳為如上述者。前述角質層萃取物較佳為將以前述脂溶性溶媒萃取而得的萃取物予以濃縮者。 [發明之效果]The above-mentioned native species, horticultural varieties, and the leaves of the aforementioned camellia are preferably as described above. Further, the above-mentioned fat-soluble solvent is also preferably as described above. The stratum corneum extract is preferably one obtained by extracting an extract obtained by extracting the above-described fat-soluble solvent. [Effects of the Invention]

根據本發明,可有效利用包含脂溶性成分之萃取物,該脂溶性成分係由山茶葉此種天然原料,使用脂溶性溶媒進行萃取而得。又,就脂溶性溶媒,由於不會萃取出水溶性成分,其後亦可進一步萃取出水溶性成分,而能夠達到山茶葉之充分有效利用。   此外,藉由摻混包含如此所得之日本山茶之角質層萃取物的化妝品用組成物,可獲得保存性高,且製品的品質不易劣化的化妝品。According to the present invention, an extract containing a fat-soluble component obtained by extracting a natural raw material of mountain tea leaves using a fat-soluble solvent can be effectively utilized. Further, in the case of the fat-soluble solvent, since the water-soluble component is not extracted, the water-soluble component can be further extracted, and the tea leaves can be sufficiently utilized. Further, by blending the cosmetic composition containing the cuticle extract of Japanese camellia thus obtained, a cosmetic having high storage stability and inferior quality of the product can be obtained.

[實施發明之形態][Formation of the Invention]

以下,就本發明更詳細地加以說明。   於本發明中,係將山茶的葉片作為角質層萃取物(山茶葉蠟質)的原料使用。屬萃取原料之前述山茶的葉片可使用日本國內原生的原生種或園藝品種之任一者。Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail. In the present invention, the leaves of Camellia are used as a raw material for the stratum corneum extract (Mountain tea wax). The leaf of the aforementioned camellia which is an extracting raw material may be any one of native native or horticultural varieties in Japan.

此處所稱原生種,係指無須依靠栽培,可於自然狀態下持續生存之植物;意指在自然狀態下進行作物的品種間、種間雜交等者。The term "primary species" as used herein refers to a plant that can survive in a natural state without relying on cultivation; it means a variety of crops, interspecific hybridization, etc. in a natural state.

又,園藝品種係指進行交配、選育(selection)等,以人為方式產生的植物品種。若性狀固定時,其性狀會由下一代所繼承;若為雜交種第1代(F1)時,則其性狀僅限於一代,而無法由下一代繼承。Further, the horticultural variety refers to a plant variety which is artificially produced by mating, selection, and the like. If the trait is fixed, its trait will be inherited by the next generation; if it is the first generation (F1) of the hybrid, its trait is limited to one generation and cannot be inherited by the next generation.

日本山茶的葉片係如圖1(A)所示,於葉片的表面斥水。而且,若以掃描型電子顯微鏡(SEM)觀察葉片的背側,則可獲得如圖1(B)及(C)之顯微鏡影像。圖1(B)之縮尺為100nm、圖1(C)之縮尺為10nm。圖1(C)中表示右下部分有蠟質破壞而看起來發亮的部分。The leaf system of Japanese camellia is water-repellent on the surface of the blade as shown in Fig. 1(A). Further, when the back side of the blade is observed by a scanning electron microscope (SEM), a microscope image as shown in Figs. 1 (B) and (C) can be obtained. The scale of Fig. 1(B) is 100 nm, and the scale of Fig. 1(C) is 10 nm. Fig. 1(C) shows a portion where the lower right portion has waxy damage and looks bright.

日本山茶的葉片之橫剖面係如圖2所示。於此,紙面的上方向(左側)表示葉片的表側,下方向(右側)則表示葉片的背面。日本山茶的葉片之構造為,自葉片的表側起為角質層,其下方有上表皮,其下方有柵狀組織,再其下方有海綿狀組織,接著為下表皮、角質層。海綿狀組織中配置有葉片的維管束。又,在葉片的背面四處散布有氣孔。The cross section of the leaves of Japanese camellia is shown in Figure 2. Here, the upper direction (left side) of the paper surface indicates the front side of the blade, and the lower direction (right side) indicates the back surface of the blade. The structure of the leaves of Japanese camellia is that it is a stratum corneum from the front side of the leaf, and has an upper epidermis below it, a grille structure below it, and a spongy tissue below it, followed by a lower epidermis and a stratum corneum. A vascular bundle in which the blade is arranged in the spongy tissue. Further, air holes are scattered around the back surface of the blade.

於此,表皮具有防止水分從氣孔以外之處蒸散的作用。又,柵狀組織為雙層構造,有別於其他植物,係呈細長形的細胞緊密地排列而成,藉由葉片進行大部分的光合作用。因此,葉綠體為沿著細胞膜多數排列而成的構造。Here, the skin has an effect of preventing moisture from evaporating from a place other than the pores. Further, the grid-like structure is a two-layer structure, which is different from other plants in that elongated cells are closely arranged, and most of the photosynthesis is carried out by the leaves. Therefore, the chloroplast is a structure in which a large number of cells are arranged along the cell membrane.

此外,為了通過氣孔進行氣體交換,海綿狀組織形成為富含空氣間隙(細胞間隙),且細胞呈不規則排列的構造。海綿狀組織中亦含有葉綠體。又,於柵狀組織合成的各種物質係送入至配置於海綿狀組織中的維管束,使用於維持植物體等。Further, in order to perform gas exchange through the pores, the spongy tissue is formed to be rich in an air gap (cell gap), and the cells are arranged in an irregular arrangement. The spongy tissue also contains chloroplasts. Further, various substances synthesized in the grid structure are fed to a vascular bundle disposed in the sponge-like structure, and are used to maintain a plant body or the like.

作為原生種之實例,可舉出日本山茶、屬其變種之白雪山茶(Camellia japonica)及屋久島山茶(Camellia japonica var. macrocarpa)。白雪山茶係為了適應日本海側等的多雪地帶之變種;屋久島山茶則係為了適應屋久島、沖繩等地島之變種。Examples of the native species include Japanese camellia, Camellia japonica which is a variant thereof, and Camellia japonica var. macrocarpa. In order to adapt to the variety of the snowy areas such as the islands of Yakushima and Okinawa, the Shikuyama tea is adapted to the variants of the snowy areas such as the sea side of Japan.

作為園藝品種,可舉出Camellia japonica ‘Kamo-hon-nami’(加茂本阿彌)、Camellia japonica ‘Tarokaja’ (太郎冠者)、Camellia japonica ‘Tama-no-ura’(玉之浦)、Camellia japonica ‘Tama-gasumi’(玉霞)、Camellia japonica ‘Moshio’(藻汐)、Camellia japonica ‘Ezonishiki’(蝦夷錦)、Camellia japonica ‘Soushiarai’(草紙洗)、Camellia japonica ‘Bokuhan’(卜伴)、Camellia japonica ‘Hishi-karaito’(菱唐糸)、及Camellia japonica ‘Murage’(村下)等。As horticultural varieties, Camellia japonica 'Kamo-hon-nami', Camellia japonica 'Tarokaja' (Tarooka), Camellia japonica 'Tama-no-ura' (Jade's), Camellia japonica 'Tama -gasumi' (玉霞), Camellia japonica 'Moshio' (algae), Camellia japonica 'Ezonishiki' (shrimp brocade), Camellia japonica 'Soushiarai' (grass wash), Camellia japonica 'Bokuhan' (bu companion), Camellia japonica ' Hishi-karaito' (Ling Tang), and Camellia japonica 'Murage' (Murata).

此等山茶的葉片可使用經修剪後等所得之生葉,亦可使用生葉經乾燥之乾燥葉(下稱「乾燥山茶葉」)的任一種。As the leaves of such camellia, leaflets obtained by trimming or the like may be used, and any dried leaves of dried leaflets (hereinafter referred to as "dried mountain tea leaves") may be used.

如上述之山茶的葉片係使用例如粉碎機、多用途切割器等切成約0.1~2mm見方。切碎之山茶葉係供予後述以脂溶性溶媒之萃取。未使用於溶媒萃取的葉片係保存於陰暗處。The leaf of the camellia as described above is cut into about 0.1 to 2 mm square using, for example, a pulverizer or a multipurpose cutter. The chopped mountain tea is supplied with a fat-soluble solvent as described later. Blades not used for solvent extraction are stored in the shade.

以下,列舉使用經加熱乾燥之乾燥葉的情形為例加以說明。將切成約0.1~2mm見方的乾燥葉,以所要的量,例如秤量100g,置入容量約2L的燒杯型容器,對其添加乾燥葉重量約9倍容量的所要之脂溶性溶媒,例如約900 mL的正己烷,一面於40℃進行振盪,一面於室溫進行萃取約2小時。Hereinafter, a case where dry leaves dried by heating are used will be described as an example. The dried leaves cut into about 0.1 to 2 mm squares are placed in a desired amount, for example, 100 g, and placed in a beaker type container having a capacity of about 2 L, and a desired fat-soluble solvent having a capacity of about 9 times the dry leaf weight is added thereto, for example, about 900 mL of n-hexane was shaken at 40 ° C while being extracted at room temperature for about 2 hours.

萃取結束後,將上述容器的內容物移至例如直徑約300mm的布氏漏斗上,過濾分離出固體成分與萃取液。其後,將所得萃取液以例如裝設有水浴的旋轉蒸發器進行濃縮,可得到角質層萃取物(山茶葉蠟質)。所得角質層萃取物(山茶葉蠟質)中含有脂肪酸酯等。After the end of the extraction, the contents of the above vessel were transferred to, for example, a Buchner funnel having a diameter of about 300 mm, and the solid component and the extract were separated by filtration. Thereafter, the obtained extract is concentrated, for example, by a rotary evaporator equipped with a water bath to obtain a cuticle extract (Mountain tea wax). The obtained cuticle extract (bean tea wax) contains a fatty acid ester or the like.

將如以上方式所得之山茶葉蠟質摻混於各種化妝料而以既定量摻混於護膚水、乳液、乳霜、洗臉泡沫、潔面泡沫劑、凝膠、髮露、髮膠、髮霜、及唇膏等化妝品中。例如,將摻有前述化妝品用組成物(山茶葉蠟質)之化妝品的重量設為100%時,前述化妝品中之前述化妝品用組成物(山茶葉蠟質)的含量較佳為約0.01~約10重量%的範圍。The tea leaf wax obtained by the above method is blended into various cosmetics to be quantitatively blended into skin care water, lotion, cream, face foam, cleansing foam, gel, hair lotion, hair gel, hair cream, and Lipstick and other cosmetics. For example, when the weight of the cosmetic composition containing the cosmetic composition (bean tea wax) is 100%, the content of the cosmetic composition (bean tea wax) in the cosmetic is preferably about 0.01 to about A range of 10% by weight.

之所以將前述既定的摻混量設為約0.01~約10重量%,係出於以下原因。這是因為,首先,若未達約0.01重量%,便無法充分防止化妝品之氧化所造成的品質劣化。反之,縱使超過約10重量%,防止化妝品之氧化所造成的品質劣化之效果也無法進一步提升,而且化妝品的使用感也會變差。由抗氧化效果與使用感的平衡而言,更佳為約0.1~約1%。The reason why the aforementioned blending amount is set to be about 0.01 to about 10% by weight is as follows. This is because, firstly, if it is less than about 0.01% by weight, quality deterioration due to oxidation of the cosmetic cannot be sufficiently prevented. On the other hand, even if it exceeds about 10% by weight, the effect of preventing deterioration of quality due to oxidation of the cosmetic cannot be further improved, and the feeling of use of the cosmetic is also deteriorated. It is more preferably from about 0.1 to about 1% from the balance between the antioxidant effect and the feeling of use.

就如以上方式所得之山茶葉蠟質的性質,可藉由抗氧化試驗、紫外吸光測定等來確認。抗氧化試驗能以例如二丁基羥基甲苯(BHT)為陽性對照組,並藉由比較使用適當的植物蠟質時,能以何種程度抑制角鯊烯的氧化,來確認其活性強度。 [實施例]The properties of the wax of the mountain tea obtained as described above can be confirmed by an antioxidant test, ultraviolet light absorption measurement or the like. The antioxidant test can be confirmed by, for example, dibutylhydroxytoluene (BHT) as a positive control group, and by comparing the degree of inhibition of squalene oxidation by using an appropriate plant wax. [Examples]

以下舉出實施例,對本發明更詳細地加以說明,惟本發明不必然限定於此等實施例。The present invention will be described in more detail below by way of examples, but the invention should not be construed as limited.

(實施例1)抗氧化作用的探討 (1)實驗材料及試劑   日本山茶的葉片係於長崎縣五島市於2017年2月採收,於60~70℃經加熱乾燥,並裁切成約0.15mm見方。(Example 1) Discussion on Antioxidation (1) Experimental Materials and Reagents The leaves of Japanese camellia were harvested in February 2017 in Wudao City, Nagasaki Prefecture, dried at 60-70 ° C, and cut into about 0.15. Mm square.

正己烷、三氯乙酸、乙醇、丁醇、及鹽酸係由米山藥品工業(股)購入。硫巴比妥酸(以下有稱為「TBA」)、角鯊烯係由Nacalai Tesque(股)購入。對照試料之小燭樹蠟係由橫關油脂工業(股)、二丁基羥基甲苯(以下簡稱為「BHT」)則由和光純藥工業(股)購入。N-hexane, trichloroacetic acid, ethanol, butanol, and hydrochloric acid were purchased from Mishan Pharmaceutical Industry Co., Ltd. Thiobarbituric acid (hereinafter referred to as "TBA") and squalene are purchased from Nacalai Tesque. The candelilla wax of the control sample was purchased from Wako Pure Chemical Industries Co., Ltd., and the dibutyl hydroxytoluene (hereinafter referred to as "BHT") was purchased from Wako Pure Chemical Industries Co., Ltd.

作為TBA試劑,係調製含有0.375%硫巴比妥酸、15%三氯乙酸、2%乙醇的0.25 N鹽酸。另取乾燥山茶葉100g,添加9倍容量的正己烷,於42℃進行萃取2小時,並使用定性濾紙No. 131加以過濾。As the TBA reagent, 0.25 N hydrochloric acid containing 0.375% of thiobarbituric acid, 15% of trichloroacetic acid, and 2% of ethanol was prepared. Further, 100 g of dried mountain tea leaves were taken, 9-fold volume of n-hexane was added, and extraction was carried out at 42 ° C for 2 hours, and filtered using qualitative filter paper No. 131.

將濾液置入1,000mL的茄型燒瓶中,於40℃的水浴中,使用旋轉蒸發器進行減壓濃縮。受試物質之「山茶葉角質層萃取物」(以下有稱「角質層萃取物」或「山茶葉蠟質」)的產率為2%。將所得濃縮液作為「角質層萃取物」,使用於以下實驗。The filtrate was placed in a 1,000 mL eggplant type flask, and concentrated under reduced pressure using a rotary evaporator in a water bath at 40 °C. The yield of the "Song Tea Cuticle Extract" (hereinafter referred to as "cutinum extract" or "Mountain tea wax") of the test substance was 2%. The obtained concentrate was used as a "cuticle extract" and used in the following experiment.

(2)角質層萃取物之抗氧化作用的探討   茲評定角鯊烯經加熱氧化時的角質層萃取物、小燭樹蠟或BHT之抗氧化效果。亦即,分別使角質層萃取物、小燭樹蠟或BHT溶解於角鯊烯1mL成下述表1所示濃度而作成檢體,於50℃下靜置24小時。作為控制組,係使用角鯊烯1mL。(2) Discussion on the antioxidation effect of the stratum corneum extract The antioxidant effect of the stratum corneum extract, candelilla wax or BHT when squalene is heated and oxidized is evaluated. In other words, the horny layer extract, candelilla wax or BHT was dissolved in 1 mL of squalene to form a sample at a concentration shown in the following Table 1, and allowed to stand at 50 ° C for 24 hours. As the control group, 1 mL of squalene was used.

其次,由上述各檢體取0.1mL至玻璃製試管中,添加1mL的乙醇、1mL的TBA試劑並加以振動混拌,再將此等混合物以100℃加熱60分鐘。其後,將此等試管置於冰浴中使其冷卻至室溫,對各試管添加2mL的丁醇予以充分振動混拌、混合並靜置。取各試管之上澄液,測定535nm的吸光度。將結果示於表1。Next, 0.1 mL of each sample was placed in a glass test tube, 1 mL of ethanol and 1 mL of TBA reagent were added, and the mixture was shaken and mixed, and the mixture was heated at 100 ° C for 60 minutes. Thereafter, the test tubes were placed in an ice bath and allowed to cool to room temperature, and 2 mL of butanol was added to each test tube, and the mixture was thoroughly shaken, mixed, and allowed to stand. The supernatant was taken from each tube and the absorbance at 535 nm was measured. The results are shown in Table 1.

由表1顯示,可藉由角質層萃取物抑制因角鯊烯氧化所致之紅色反應物的生成。角質層萃取物(山茶葉蠟質),在與小燭樹蠟相同的0.05%下,亦比小燭樹蠟強6倍以上,甚而在調成1/10之濃度的情況下,亦顯示成倍以上之效果。又,若為0.10%時則顯示與BHT為相同程度。   由以上確認,角質層萃取物具有強抗氧化作用。As shown in Table 1, the formation of a red reactant due to oxidation of squalene can be inhibited by the stratum corneum extract. The cuticle extract (Mountain tea wax) is also more than 6 times stronger than the candelilla wax at the same 0.05% as the candelilla wax, even in the case of a concentration of 1/10. More than double the effect. Moreover, when it is 0.10%, it shows the same level as BHT. It was confirmed from the above that the stratum corneum extract has a strong antioxidant effect.

(實施例2)角質層萃取物的分析 (1)抗紫外線作用的探討   使用分光光度計,來確認實施例1(1)中所得之角質層萃取物是否具有紫外線吸收效果。使角質層萃取物溶解於正己烷成0.1%(w/v),確認260~450nm之吸光度的變化。將結果示於圖3。(Example 2) Analysis of stratum corneum extract (1) Investigation of anti-ultraviolet action The spectrophotometer was used to confirm whether or not the stratum corneum extract obtained in Example 1 (1) had an ultraviolet absorbing effect. The stratum corneum extract was dissolved in n-hexane to 0.1% (w/v), and the change in absorbance at 260 to 450 nm was confirmed. The results are shown in Fig. 3.

如圖3所示,就角質層萃取物,在280~380nm的範圍未觀察到譜峰,而無法確認有紫外線吸收效果。As shown in Fig. 3, in the stratum corneum extract, no peak was observed in the range of 280 to 380 nm, and the ultraviolet absorbing effect could not be confirmed.

由以上確認,角質層萃取物單獨具有強抗氧化作用,但無紫外線吸收作用。It was confirmed from the above that the stratum corneum extract alone had a strong anti-oxidation effect, but no ultraviolet absorption.

(2)角質層萃取物的成分分析   將角質層萃取物供予紅外吸收(IR)分析,得到圖4所示光譜。由圖4所示IR光譜,研判角質層萃取物含有酯系蠟質。(2) Component analysis of stratum corneum extract The stratum corneum extract was subjected to infrared absorption (IR) analysis to obtain the spectrum shown in Fig. 4. From the IR spectrum shown in Fig. 4, it was judged that the stratum corneum extract contained an ester wax.

為確認山茶葉片的角質層是否含有脂肪酸,而將山茶葉蠟質1g溶解於己烷50mL並置入分液漏斗中,加入0.1mol/L氫氧化鈉50mL予以振動、靜置後,將水層回收於燒杯中。對己烷層添加0.1mol/L氫氧化鈉50mL予以振動、靜置,並回收水層。進行此步驟2次。將回收之水層移至分液漏斗並添加適量之1mol/L的HCl而使pH成酸性。添加己烷50mL予以振動、靜置,回收己烷層。將水層再次移回分液漏斗,與己烷一併予以振動、靜置,回收油層。進行此步驟共計2次。對回收之油層添加適量的硫酸鈉(無水)來進行脫水。將此液以濾紙(TOYO No.131)過濾,於減壓下去除溶媒並秤量的結果為0.005g,研判脂肪酸的含量為少量。 (製造例)   將上述含有山茶葉蠟質之化妝品的製造例示於下述表2~表4。In order to confirm whether the stratum corneum of the camellia leaves contains fatty acid, 1 g of the mountain tea wax was dissolved in 50 mL of hexane and placed in a separatory funnel, and 50 mL of 0.1 mol/L sodium hydroxide was added to vibrate and stand, and then the water layer was placed. Recycled in a beaker. 50 mL of 0.1 mol/L sodium hydroxide was added to the hexane layer, vibrated, and allowed to stand, and the aqueous layer was recovered. Perform this step 2 times. The recovered aqueous layer was transferred to a separatory funnel and an appropriate amount of 1 mol/L of HCl was added to make the pH acidic. 50 mL of hexane was added thereto, and the mixture was shaken and allowed to stand, and a hexane layer was recovered. The aqueous layer was again transferred back to the separatory funnel, vibrated together with hexane, and allowed to stand, and the oil layer was recovered. This step is performed a total of 2 times. An appropriate amount of sodium sulfate (anhydrous) is added to the recovered oil layer for dehydration. This liquid was filtered through a filter paper (TOYO No. 131), and the solvent was removed under reduced pressure, and the result was weighed to 0.005 g, and the content of the fatty acid was determined to be a small amount. (Production Example) The production examples of the above-mentioned cosmetics containing the mountain tea wax are shown in Tables 2 to 4 below.

如以上所述,可製造摻有本發明之化妝品用組成物的化妝品。 [產業上可利用性]As described above, a cosmetic incorporating the cosmetic composition of the present invention can be produced. [Industrial availability]

本案發明係有用於化妝品領域。The invention of the present invention is used in the field of cosmetics.

圖1係表示日本山茶的葉片之表面狀態。圖1(A)表示日本山茶的葉片表面斥水者。又,圖1(B)及(C)為表示日本山茶的葉片之背側構造的掃描型電子顯微鏡照片。Fig. 1 is a view showing the surface state of the leaves of Japanese camellia. Fig. 1(A) shows the surface water repellent of Japanese camellia. 1(B) and (C) are scanning electron micrographs showing the structure of the back side of the leaves of Japanese camellia.

圖2為表示日本山茶的葉片之橫剖面的示意圖。   圖3為表示探討山茶葉蠟質之紫外線吸收之試驗結果的圖。   圖4為表示山茶葉蠟質之IR光譜的圖。Fig. 2 is a schematic view showing a cross section of a blade of Japanese camellia. Fig. 3 is a view showing the results of an experiment for investigating ultraviolet absorption of wax of mountain tea leaves. Fig. 4 is a view showing an IR spectrum of a mountain tea wax.

Claims (6)

一種化妝品用組成物,其係包含將山茶的葉片以脂溶性溶媒進行萃取而得的角質層萃取物。A cosmetic composition comprising a stratum corneum extract obtained by extracting leaves of camellia with a fat-soluble solvent. 如請求項1之化妝品用組成物,其中前述山茶為選自由原生種或其園藝品種所成群組之任一者。The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the camellia is any one selected from the group consisting of a native species or a horticultural variety thereof. 如請求項2之化妝品用組成物,其中前述原生種為選自由日本山茶(Camellia japonica)、白雪山茶(Camellia japonica)及屋久島山茶(Camellia japonica var. macrocarpa)所成群組之任一者。The cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the aforementioned native species is any one selected from the group consisting of Camellia japonica, Camellia japonica, and Camellia japonica var. macrocarpa. 如請求項1~3中任一項之化妝品用組成物,其中前述角質層萃取物為將以前述脂溶性溶媒萃取而得的萃取物予以濃縮者。The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the horny layer extract is an extract obtained by extracting the fat-soluble solvent. 一種化妝品,其特徵為,將摻有前述化妝品用組成物之化妝品的重量設為100%時,如請求項4之化妝品用組成物係於0.005~5重量%的範圍內予以摻混者。A cosmetic composition, wherein the cosmetic composition of claim 4 is blended in a range of 0.005 to 5% by weight, based on 100% by weight of the cosmetic composition containing the cosmetic composition. 一種食品用組成物,其係包含將山茶的葉片以脂溶性溶媒進行萃取而得的角質層萃取物。A food composition comprising a stratum corneum extract obtained by extracting leaves of camellia with a fat-soluble solvent.
TW107127748A 2017-08-10 2018-08-09 Cosmetic compositions and cosmetics incorporating the same TWI783023B (en)

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