SK4072000A3 - EXTRACT, COSMETIC PREPARATION FOR TREATMENT OF HUMAN SKIN ORì (54) HAIRS CONTAINING THE SAME AND ITS USE - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to extracts obtainable through extraction of leaves, leafstalks and/or branches of plants belonging to the genus Cassia or Lawsonia using an organic solvent. Said solvent has a dielectric constant of 2.5 or less at 20 DEG C. The extracts are practically colorless and exhibit a high cleaning and conditioning effect on skin and hair. Preparations with these extracts preferably contain an additional tenside and/or one fatty substance.

Description

Extract, preparation for the treatment of human skin or human hair containing and its use

Technical field

The invention relates to special extracts of henna, to their use as cosmetic active substances, and to the respective skin and hair care products.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Human hair is now treated in a variety of ways through hair cosmetics. These include, for example, hair cleaning with shampoos, treatment and regeneration with rinsing solutions and treatments, as well as bleaching, dyeing and shaping hair with waving, tinting and styling products. While the emphasis has been placed on the aforementioned properties of the products in the form of these compositions, it is now increasingly sought to provide a conditioning and care effect, regeneration of damaged hair or even preventive damage protection.

A number of treating and conditioning agents are known to the skilled artisan, but there is still a need for new active agents. There is particular interest in novel active substances from natural, preferably plant sources, which are exceptionally highly acceptable to the consumer.

It has been known since ancient times to use henna for coloring purposes, in particular also for coloring human hair. It has also been observed almost immediately that the application of henna preparations (usually as an aqueous slurry in the form of a coloring slurry) not only achieves hair coloration, but also achieves improved hair quality to the touch and increased gloss.

Due to the intensive coloring effect of the known standard forms of henna, the use of this treatment effect has remained limited to the hair dyeing area for a long time. In connection with overcoming this restriction has occurred

-2 lately a lot of hints. In particular, it has been sought to prepare as many as possible colorless extracts which at the same time exhibit the curing effect of the henna plant concerned. In this respect, reference is made, for example, to the article by D. Kenney in Cosmetics & Toiletries, no. 96 (June 1980), pp. 44-51.

The known extracts of henna, however, are far from satisfying the requirements. These aqueous or aqueous-alcohol extracts still show a marked coloring effect. On the one hand, this can lead to undesirable coloring of the hair, whereby color adjustment of the end products containing these extracts is difficult, or, as in the case of colorless, transparent products, this adjustment is virtually impossible. However, a decisive disadvantage of these extracts is that the conditioning and treatment effect is much less than when using the henna plant alone.

It has now surprisingly been found, however, that by extracting special parts of certain types of henna plants with selected solvents, colorless or only slightly yellowish-colored extracts are obtained which, in comparison with known extracts of henna, produce significantly higher skin care and conditioning effects at the same amount used. hair.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention provides extracts obtained by extracting from leaves, stalks and / or branches of plants belonging to the Cassia or Lawsonia genera using an organic solvent having a dielectric constant at 20 ° C of 2.5 or less.

Lawsonia inermis and Cassia auriculata have proved to be particularly suitable for the preparation of extracts. Lawsonia inermis extracts are particularly potent.

Although both leaves and stem stems and branches of said plants have proven to be a starting material, the extracts are nevertheless preferably produced from ground leaves of these plants.

In order to obtain the extracts according to the invention, only low-polarity solvents can be used for the extraction. All dielectric solvents are suitable

-3 with a constant of 2.5 and less at 20 ° C. Dialectic solvent constants can be ascertained by one skilled in the art in the relevant handbooks, for example, in the "CRC Handbook of

Chemistry and Physics'.

Preferred according to the invention are those solvents which are soluble in water at less than 1% by weight at 20 ° C.

Particularly preferred solvents within the scope of the invention are cyclohexane, carbon tetrachloride, benzene, n-hexane and n-pentane. Extracts which have been produced using cyclohexane as solvent have proven to be particularly effective.

Extraction is usually carried out at normal pressure. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the extract can also be produced using solvents in an excessively critical state. In this case, it may be advantageous to use n-pentane as the solvent.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the extract contains no coloring components. Within the meaning of the invention, an extract 'free of coloring ingredients is considered to be an extract when the following conditions are met:

- no discoloration of the extract itself is visible to the naked eye or only insignificant yellowish color is present,

- no discoloration of the skin or hair when applying the extract is visible to the naked eye,

- there is no interaction with other coloring agents present in the product which could cause discernible color changes to the eye.

According to the invention, the active compound-solvent mixture obtained by extraction is substantially concentrated by removal, for example by evaporation of the bulk of the solvent, such that the extract obtained preferably contains less than 5% by weight of the original solvent, based on the entire extract. Particularly preferred are those extracts which no longer contain any detectable amounts of the original solvent.

Further, the invention provides the use of the above-described extracts as a cosmetic active ingredient.

Further, the invention provides compositions for treating human skin or human hair comprising one of the extracts described above.

-4The type of hair care product is not subject to any major restrictions. These may be, for example, cleansers such as shampoos, care preparations such as hair treatments and hair rinse solutions, firming preparations such as hair stiffeners, hair sprays and blow molding preparations, permanent shaping preparations such as permanent waving and fixation preparations, color changing preparations such as lightening agents preparations, oxidative dye preparations and tinting preparations based on direct-acting dyes, hair lotions and hair-lotions. Correspondingly, the preparations may be in the form of solutions, emulsions, gels, creams, aerosols or lotions.

Within the scope of the invention, preferred hair styling products are, on the one hand, hair care products, and, on the other hand, hair coloring products.

The compositions of the invention comprise as an essential component the extract of claim 1. Preferred embodiments in relation to this component are described above.

According to a first embodiment of the invention, the preparations according to the invention consist exclusively of this extract of henna, or contain as preservatives only preservatives and / or perfume oils in amounts of less than 1% by weight, based on the whole preparation.

According to a second embodiment of the invention, the preparations according to the invention contain this extract in amounts of 0.05 to 99, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the one hand on the content of the active substance of the extract and on the other hand on the whole preparation.

The hair treatment compositions of the invention preferably further comprise at least one surfactant. Both anionic and nonionic, cationic, amphionic and ampholytic surfactants may be used, and it may be advantageous to use at least one anionic surfactant on the one hand and at least one cationic or nonionic surfactant on the other.

According to the invention, for example, the following surfactants can be used:

- anionic surfactants such as, in particular, fatty acid soaps, alkylsulphuric acid esters, alkylpolyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having from 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, and from 8 to 18 sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters

-5 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, and monoalkylpolyoxyethyl sulfosuccinic acid of 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,

- nonionic surfactants, such as in particular the addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide having linear higher aliphatic alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and alkyl phenols having 8 to 15 atoms C12-C22- mono- and diesters of fatty acids addition products from 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerin, C6-C22-alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, and addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil,

amphionic surfactants, in particular so-called betaines such as N-alkyl- N, N -dimethylammonium glycinates, e.g. having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate,

ampholytic surfactants such as N-alkyl glycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl- / Valkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids having from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms in each alkyl group,

- cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compounds such as ammonium halides, preferably chlorides and bromides, such as alkyl trimethyl, dialkyl dimethyl and trialkyl cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium and tricetyl, behenyltrimetylamóniummetosulfát and under the INCI designations Quaternium-27 and Quaternium -83 known imidazole compounds. Alkylamidoamines such as the commercially available stearamidopropyldimethylamine under the name Tegoamid® S 18 can also be used as cationic surfactants.

-6a so-called ester guats such as the commercially available N, N -bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride under the name Armocare® VGH-70.

Depending on the type of formulation and the type of surfactant, surfactants may be present in the formulations of the invention in amounts of from 0.5 to 25% by weight based on the total formulation. Formulations in the form of so-called concentrates may also have higher surfactant contents.

The compositions of the invention preferably further comprise fat.

Preferred fats are linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated higher aliphatic alcohols or natural mixtures of higher aliphatic alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain such as decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, era ricinolal alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylalcohol, caprole alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenylalcohol, and their gueretyl alcohols and parts of higher aliphatic alcohols, which are derived from triglycerides, such as triglycerides; , peanut oil, beet oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil, or derived from fatty acid esters resulting from their transesterification products with the corresponding alcohols, thereby forming a mixture of different higher aliphatic alcohols. The higher aliphatic alcohols are generally used in amounts of 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, and most preferably 0.3 to 6% by weight, based on the entire preparation. In special preparations, the amount of fat may also be up to 90% by weight.

Monoesters of C 6 -C 24 alcohols as well as triglycerides of natural origin can also be used as fats.

Further, the hair conditioning compositions according to the invention may advantageously still contain a conditioning active which is selected from the group consisting of cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, alkylamidoamines, paraffin oils, vegetable oils and synthetic oils.

Cationic polymers may be preferred as conditioning agents. They are generally polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.

Preferred cationic polymers are, for example

- quaternized cellulose derivatives as commercially available under the names Celquat® and Polymer JR®. Preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives are Celquat® H 100, Celquat® L 200 and JR®400 Polymer.

- polymeric dimethyldialylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic and methacrylic acid. Examples of such cationic polymers are the commercially available products under the names Merquat®100 (poly (dimethyldialylammonium chloride)) and Merquat®550 (dimethyldialylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer).

vinylpyrrolidone copolymers with quaternized dialkylaminoacrylate- and methacrylate derivatives, such as, for example, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone dimethylaminomethacrylate copolymers with diethyl sulfate. Such compounds are commercially available under the names Gafquat®734 and Gafquat®755.

- vinylpyrrolidone-metoimidazolinium chloride copolymers, which are marketed under the trade name Luviquat®.

- quaternized polyvinyl alcohol j as well as the designations »- Polyquaternium 2, '- Polyquaternium 17,

- Polyquaternium 18 a

Polyquaternium 27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the main polymer chain.

Cationic polymers of the first four groups mentioned are particularly preferred.

Further suitable as conditioning agents are silicone oils, in particular dialkyl and alkylarylsiloxanes, such as dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, as well as their alkoxylated and quaternized analogs. Examples of such silicones are distributed by Dow Corning under the names DC 190, DC 200, DC 344, DC 345 and DC 1401, as well as the commercial products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning®929 emulsion (contains hydroxyl-amino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer:

As well as Abil®-Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquatary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80).

Paraffin oils as well as vegetable oils such as jojoba oil, sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach kernel oil are also useful as conditioning agents.

Compounds such as phospholipids, such as soy lecithin, egg lecithin, and cephalins are also suitable hair conditioners.

The compositions of the invention which are hair coloring or tinting agents may comprise at least one developer-type oxidant dye precursor, optionally in combination with a bonding-type oxidant dye precursor, and / or may comprise a direct-acting dye.

According to the invention, preferred development components are p-phenylenediamine, ptoluylenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, N, N -bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- ( 2,5-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1-phenyl-3-carboxyamido-4-amino-5-pyrazolone, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-methylamino-4-aminophenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy- 4,5 _L 6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxyethylaminomethyl-4- aminophenol as well as 4,4'-diaminodiphenylamine.

Preferred coupling components according to the invention are 1-naphthol, pyrogalol, 1,5-, 2,7 and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthaline, o-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, m-phenylenediamine , 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazolone-5, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 1,3-bis- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 4-chlororesorcin, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2- methyl resorcinin, 5-methyl resorcinin, 2,5-dimethyl resorcinin, 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-diaminopyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6- methoxypyridine, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluol, 2,6-bis- (2-hydroxyethylamino) toluene, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole.

Usually, developmental and coupling components are used in approximately molar amounts. If the molar use has also been shown to be expedient, a certain excess of the individual oxidant dye precursors is not disadvantageous either, so that the developer and binder components can advantageously be included in the dye composition in a molar ratio of 1: 0.5 to 1: 2. The total amount of oxidation dye pre-products is generally at most 20% by weight, based on the total preparation.

Direct-acting dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, anthraquinones or indophenols. Preferred direct-acting dyes are the compounds known under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro- 1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, hydroxyethyl-2-nitrotoluidine, picramic acid, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol and 4-N-ethyl-1,4-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) - 2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride. According to this embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain direct-acting dyes, preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, based on the entire dye composition.

The preparations according to the invention may furthermore also contain naturally occurring dyes such as red hen, neutral hen, black hen, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, bark of crustacean, sage, cichlid (blue wood), pickle root, catech, cedar and alkane root.

It is not necessary that the oxidant dye precursors or the direct-acting dyes always represent uniform compounds. In addition, other components may be present in subordinate amounts in the dye compositions of the invention, which is conditional upon the method of manufacture of the individual dyes, provided these do not adversely affect the dyeing result or if, for other reasons, e.g. Toxicological, may not be excluded.

In addition, with respect to the dyes used in the hair coloring and tinting compositions of the present invention, the monograph Ch. Animal, The Science of Hair Line, Chapter 7 (pages 248-250; direct-acting dyes) as well as Chapter 8, pages 264-267; oxidative dye pre-products), published as Volume 7 of the Dermatology series (edited by Ch. Culnan and H. Maibach), published by Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, Basel, 1986, as well as the "European Cosmetic Inventory", published by the European which is accessible in floppy form from

-10.University of German Industrial and Commercial Enterprises for the manufacture of pharmaceuticals, environmental goods and body care products e.V., Mannheim.

The pH of the formulations according to the invention may in principle be between 2 and 11, and the skilled person knows the preferred pH ranges for the various formulations. The pH of the compositions according to the invention when treating hair products is preferably between 2 and 7, with values of from 3 to 5 being particularly preferred. Practically any acid commonly used for cosmetic purposes can be used to adjust this pH. Food acids are usually used. Food acids are those which are taken as part of normal food intake and have a positive effect on the human body. Food acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. The use of citric acid and lactic acid is particularly preferred within the scope of the invention. The hair colorants are preferably formulated so that the pH is in the range of about 7 to 11.

Other common ingredients of the compositions of the invention may be:

- anionic, amphionic, amphoteric and non-ionic polymers such as vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, polydimethylsiloxanes, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornylacrylate copolymers, poly (methyl acrylic acid copolymers and polyvinyl acetate / anhydride copolymers) ammonium / acrylate, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate terpolymers / cellulose caprolactam, optionally cellulose derivatives

- symmetrical and unsymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, for example di-n-octyl ether, di-ndecyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether and di-n-ether -dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-nundecyl ether as well as di-tert-butyl ether, di- iso-pentylether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl-n-octyl ether,

-11 - quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium metosulfate,

- antifoams such as silicones,

- thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gelatin, pectins, hydroxyethylcellulose as well as polyacrylamides and their copolymers,

- structurants such as maleic acid, mono-, di- and oligosaccharides,

- perfume oils, dimethylisosorbate and cyclodextrins,

- solubilizers such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin and diethylene glycol,

- coloring agents for coloring the preparation,

- anti-dandruff active substances such as Piroctone Olamine, Zink Omadine and Climbazole,

- other substances to adjust the pH,

- animal and vegetable protein hydrolysates, in particular elastin, collagen, keratin, milk-protein, soy-protein, almond-protein and wheat-protein hydrolysates, and their fatty acid condensation products and quaternized derivatives,

- vitamins and precursors of vitamins such as panthenol, their derivatives and biotin,

- plant and honey extracts, such as in particular extracts of oak bark, nettle, hamamelis, hops, chamomile, rapeseed, horsetail, linden flowers, almonds, aloe vera, coconut, mangoes, apricots, lemon, wheat, kiwi, melon, oranges , grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, meadow-grass, sage, mouse tail, hauhechel (hairy leaves), meristem, ginseng and ginger root,

- other active substances such as ceramides, allantoin, pyrrolidonic carboxylic acids and bisabolol,

- light-protection preparations (light antioxidant),

- a consistency-forming substance such as a sugar ester, a polyol ester or a polyol alkyl ether,

- fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, lignite wax and paraffins,

- fatty acid alkanolamides,

- 12- swelling and penetrating substances such as glycerin, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, urea as well as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

- opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers,

- pearlescent substances such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate as well as PEG-3-stearate,

- complexing agent such as EDTA, NTA, β-alanine di-acetic acid and phosphonic acids,

- reducing agents such as thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thio-lactic acid, cysteamine, thiocyanic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,

- an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide, potassium bromate and sodium bromate,

- propellant as a mixture of propane and butane, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ , N ₂ and air as well as

- antioxidants.

For other ingredients as well as amounts for the individual ingredients, reference is made to manuals known to those skilled in the art, such as the work of K. Schrader: Essentials and Formulations of Cosmetics, 2nd Edition, Htithig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

All amounts in the examples are by weight unless otherwise indicated.

1. Preparation of extracts

1.1 From leaves of dyeing henna (Lawsonia inermis) of Indian origin

200 g of dried hen leaves in powder form were extracted in 4 L of cyclohexene in a Soxhlet apparatus for 24 hours. The resulting solution was filtered and concentrated in a Rotavapore (vacuum evaporator) under a water jet vacuum to a solvent-free state. The extract obtained was in the form of a slightly pale yellow oil. The yield was 7.3% based on the dried plant material used.

-131.2 Of the leaves and cortex parts of neutral henna (Cassia auriculata)

200 g of dried leaves and crusts in powder form were extracted in 4 L of cyclohexane in a Soxhlet apparatus for 24 hours. The resulting solution was filtered and concentrated in a Rotavapore (vacuum evaporator) under a water jet vacuum to a solvent-free state. The extract obtained was a colorless oil. The yield was 6.5% based on the dried plant material used.

2. Method for determining wet combability

Intentional damage to hair strands

Dry hair strands weighing approximately 2 g (Fischbach and Miller, type 6923) were lightened for half an hour with 32 g of lightening agent (a commercial product of Poly Blond Medium Lightener). After washing the lightening composition, the hair strands were immediately treated without permanent drying by waving with the commercial product Poly Lock Normal. The duration of action of the shaping component and the fixative component was 30 and 15 minutes, respectively. After rinsing the fixative component, the strands were dried and conditioned for at least two days under ambient conditions.

2.2 Determination of combability

The rinsed hair strand was vigorously shampooed with 0.2 ml of a 50% aqueous Texapon ® N25 solution (28% sodium lauryl ether sulphate in water) prior to determination and was subsequently rinsed. 1 g of the test preparation was then massaged into the hair evenly. The products to be rinsed were left on the hair for 1 minute and then thoroughly rinsed. After massaging (for hair remaining products) or after rinsing (for rinsing products), the hair was combed with a comb with fine hard rubber teeth and the comb resistance was subjected to subjective judgment. The comparative preparations were then tested in the same way on the same strand of hair. The evaluation was based on a rating system from 1 (= very good) to 5 (= very bad).

- 143. Examples of use

3.1 Hair Care / Hair Gloss Solution (Remaining in Hair)

B1a B1b extract of henna according to example 1.1 0.5 - extract of henna according to example 1.2 - 0.5 Water 50.0 50.0 ethanol 49.5 49.5 wetability 1 3

After drying, the hair was soft, shiny and combable in both cases.

Compared to the original state before electrostatic charge. application preparation was observed reduced 3.2. Anionic rinse solution B2a B2b b2c V2 tallow higher aliphatic alcohol 8 8 8 8 Texapon®N28 ¹ 15 15 15 15 extract of henna according to example 1.1 1 - - - extract of henna according to example 1.2 - 1 3 - Water 76 76 74 77 evaluation of wetability 3 4 1 4-5

¹ sodium lauryl ether sulphate (approximately 28% active substance; INCI-designation:

Sodium Laureth Sulfat (HENKEL)

Accordingly, the rinse solution B2c corresponds to that normally used for quaternary ammonium compounds.

-153.3 Rinse solution based on natural raw materials

B3 V3

Phospholipon®25 P ² 2 2 extract of henna according to example 1.1 2 guar kernel meal 1 1 water 97 95 evaluation of wetability 1 2 ² soya lecithin, degreased (Rhone-Poulenc)

3.4 Hair toning product

Texapon®N 28

C12-ie-mixture of higher aliphatic alcohols extract of henna according to example 1.1 HC Blue No.2

Violett 1.4 D

HC Yellow 2

6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline Arianor red-brown 2-amino-2-methylpropanol-1 water

B4 V4 10,0 10,0 3.5 3.5 2.0 - 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.02 0.02 0.05 0.05

<-to pH 0.8->

<-to 100->

color shade on light blond strands <—med blonde ->

evaluation of wetability 3 4-5

3.5 Cream shampoo / shower gel

B5a b5b V5a V5B higher aliphatic coconut alcohol 3.0 3.0 4.0 5.0 Texapon®N 28 30.0 25.0 25.0 30.0 extract of henna according to example 1.1 2.0 1.0 - -

-16 sodium stearate water wetability readability

3.0

62.0 71.0 71.0

3.0

62.0

4-5

The B5a formulation showed a more noticeable care effect after the shower than the V5b formulation.

3.6 Care lotion

Lanette®N ³

Cetiol®OE ⁴ extract of henna according to example 1.1 Eutanol®G ⁵ preservative water

8,0 2,0 2,0 4,0 as necessary up to 100

The lotion is spreadable on the skin and gives the skin a pleasant soft feeling.

³ mixture of cetyl stearyl alcohol and sulphate of higher aliphatic alcohol 90:10 (INCI-designation: Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Ceteareth Sulfate) (HENKEL) ⁴ dioctyl ether (INCI-designation: Dicaprylether) (HENKEL) ⁵ 2-octyldodecanol (INCI-designation) HENKEL)

Claims (14)

An extract obtained by extraction from leaves, stalks and / or branches of plants selected from Lawsonia inermis and Cassia auriculata, using an organic solvent having a dielectric constant of 20 or less at 20 ° C. Extract according to claim 1, characterized in that the plant is Lawsonia inermis. Extract according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it is obtained by extraction from the ground leaves. Extract according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the organic solvent is dissolved in water to less than 1% by weight at 20 ° C. Extract according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the organic solvent is selected from the group of cyclohexane, carbon tetrachloride, benzene, n-hexane and n-pentane. Extract according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized by the solvent being cyclohexane. Extract according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized by the solvent being n-pentane. is that Extract according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it contains no coloring components. because of A composition for the treatment of human skin or human hair, characterized in that it comprises an extract according to one of claims 1 to 8. - ίδιο. The composition according to claim 9, characterized in that it is intended for hair care, preferably a care hair care or hair coloring composition. A composition according to claim 9, characterized in that it is intended for skin care. Composition according to one of Claims 9 to 11, characterized in that it contains a surfactant. Composition according to one of Claims 9 to 12, characterized in that it contains fat. Use of an extract according to any one of claims 1 to 8 as a cosmetic active ingredient.