SK10122001A3 - Artificial fur and method for its manufacture - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to an artificial fur, in which staple fibres (3) are mechanically mixed to a base knitted fabric (1) formed of a yarn (1a), to protrude from the level of the base knitted fabric (1) and to form a pile on the outer surface of the artificial fur. The staple fibres (3) mixed to the base knitted fabric (1) are fixed to the base knitted fabric (1) by thermal binding by means of a plastic material softened and/or melted by the effect of heat.

Description

• «··· ···· · · ·

Artificial fur and process for its manufacture

Field of the invention

The invention also relates to a faux fur as set out in the preamble of the appended claim 1. The invention also relates to a method of making faux fur. The following is a description of the use of artificial fur and a known method for its manufacture and structure.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Use of artificial fur

Artificial fur is a knitted hair product. It is a soft, lightweight and thermally insulating product. The usual use of faux fur (with long pile or strand pile) is lining for walking clothing in shoes. Technical equipment includes upholstery materials for furniture, technical products used in hospitals, polishing wheels and paint rollers. After increasing the base weight, the knitted hair product may be used to produce either suede fur coats in which the hair is directed to the inside or artificial fur coats in which the hair is directed outwards. Because the outer side of the suede fur coat is a smooth, un-patterned knit, it can dye to different patterns.

Manufacture of artificial fur

Mechanical joining of the fiber materials in the artificial fur is done directly in the knitting machine. Artificial fur is usually produced on a single-cylinder circular knitting machine. The base knit yarns are fed into the reed needles in the cylinder, to which a strand of shear fibers is also fed. The sheared fibers adhere to the pickup roller, which combs the fibers in the correct direction and guides them to the needles of the knitting machine raised after the fibers have been taken from the roller. In order to secure the fibers in the hooks of the needles and to orient them, air is blown through a narrow slot to the feed points towards the center of the cylinder of the circular knitting machine. When the needles, with the tufts of chopped fibers intercepted, begin to retract, the needles are fed the yarn forming their own knit. As the needles pass through the loops of the previous row, the yarn locks the tufts of chopped fibers in a smooth knit to form a fur surface. The knitting step of joining the faux fur is described in European Patent 0 091 025 and International Application WO 95/25191.

Further, patent application DD 122 558 discloses a method of producing a fur-like textile structure in which the textile-technical connection between the pile-forming fiber material and the basic knitted product is made by stitching (German Nähwirktechnik, Nähwirken), a method different from knitting machines. Here, the pile is made by sewing threads pierced with needles with a base material and forming protruding loops on the other side of the base material, which can be opened by shearing. The second textile layer is secured, for example by means of a heated film, to the yarn on the back of the fabric-forming base material, then the fabric can be unloaded in the direction of the pile fibers and the pile fibers formed from the above stitched yarns remain attached to the film on the outside of the product.

Pile fabrics produced by the aforementioned stitching method are also described in DE 1 938 970. Prior to stitching, another nonwoven or film of thermoplastic material is placed on top of the base material and the yarns are pierced through this layered structure. When the base material is heated, the thermoplastic material used as a backing layer will melt and better bond the stitched yarn pile to the base material.

If the artificial fur is made on a knitting machine, the pile is formed from the cut yarns fixed mechanically during the knitting phase and the bond is then not firm. For this reason, the chopped fibers are attached to the base knit in the technology of the known knitting machine by adding a fabric that attaches the hair to the knit.

Adhesive bonding of faux fur usually uses a liquid dispersion adhesive consisting of a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed polymer phase, which may be solid or liquid. In use, the adhesive also partially penetrates the structure. Usually, the pile of the faux fur is glued with latex in which polyvinyl acetate (PVA) is dispersed as a binder in the aqueous phase. Other binders are, for example, polyolefins (PO), polyamide (PA) copolymers, polyesters (e.g. coPET) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC). The adhesive may also be a paste in which a greater amount of ethyl vinyl acetate (EVA), polyethylene (PE) or copolyamide (coPA) copolymer is added in the aqueous phase. Two-component adhesives are also used, such as urethane adhesives whose components are isocyanate and polyol. Also these adhesives are well flowing, liquid and penetrate the structure.

The stabilized latex or paste is applied to the smooth side of the faux fur, for example by applying a reinforced adhesive with a spatula. The penetration of the adhesive into the weave of the knitted fabric is controlled by surfactants. Thereafter, the artificial fur is fed to a frame where the layer of adhesive is thermally fixed. The smooth surface of the glued faux fur has a hard touch, due to the stiffness of the reinforced polyvinyl acetate layer.

Further, U.S. Pat. No. 4,236,286 discloses the attachment of a hair to a knit by means of a thermosetting coating.

If the suede coat is made of pile knitted fabric, its glued smooth surface may stain. The paint is applied to the smooth side of the faux fur and then the binder is thermally fixed to the frame. Pigment paints with appropriate binders make the product feel hard.

The gluing step requires a separate device for preparing liquid dispersion adhesives, such as an adhesive dispensing device and an adhesive dispensing device. In addition, the adhesive has an adverse effect on the structure of the faux fur, for example the worsening of the touch.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

It is an object of the invention to improve the above-mentioned drawbacks and to create a faux fur that has a better structure and is suitable for various uses such as or better than known structures, and which is also easier to manufacture. To achieve this, the artificial fur is primarily characterized by what is stated in the characterizing part of the appended claim 1. If a plastic material is used which is melted or softened by the effect of heat and which can be a structural element of the artificial fur fibers (e.g. or a layer or part of a layer added to the reverse side, it is possible to form an artificial fur with properties closer to the fiber structure without additional adhesives and the like. At the same time, gluing devices are eliminated which can be replaced by heating devices that are not as complicated.

Other preferred embodiments of the invention are set forth in the appended dependent claims and in the following description.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

In the following, the invention will be described with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which: FIG. 1 shows a flow chart of a method of manufacturing a hair structure according to the invention; Fig. 2 schematically shows one step of manufacturing a pile structure; Fig. 3 shows a sectional view of the basic knitted fabric and the finished faux fur; Fig. 4 shows a detail of the structure of the artificial fur and FIG. 5 to 10 show the results of the tests of the invention.

ο · · · · ·

EXAMPLES OF THE INVENTION

The method according to the flow diagram of FIG. 1 includes the following steps:

A) administering the base knitting yarn and delivering the chopped fibers forming the hair

B) hair formation by mechanically attaching the chopped fibers to the basic knitted fabric during knitting

C) cutting the outer surface of the hair permanently to length and possibly mechanical treatment of the hair

D) heat treatment to attach the pile to the base knit

E) further processing.

Fig. 2 shows an example of the production of artificial fur. The base fabric is made by feeding the base fabric yarns 1a to the reed needles 4 of the knitting machine, to which the shear fibers 3 from the pickup roller 5 are also fed. This stage of operation is described in more detail above under the heading "Manufacture of artificial fur" and the relevant technique is described in European patent 0 091 025 and publication WO 95/25191.

Artificial fur structures

In this context, the following terms shall apply:

- fiber material: chopped fibers or filament. The fiber material is also believed to contain microfibers which are already conventional in the textile industry. By definition, in Europe, microfibers are less than 1 denier, but elsewhere, 0.7 denier is considered the upper limit.

- chopped fiber: a fiber material (stapl) consisting of several filaments of a given limited length or spaced lengths, also containing fibers of microfiber thickness continuous filament: continuous fiber as opposed to chopped fibers, also containing fibers of microfiber thickness.

yarn: yarn made from chopped fibers or one or more filaments.

Fig. 3 shows the structure of faux fur. The left side shows the basic knitted fabric I from the reverse side and the right side shows the artificial fur in section in the direction of the pillars

• · Basic knitting perpendicular to the plane of faux fur. The cohesive bond of the pile of the faux fur is the basic knitwear I consisting of the lengths of the yarn 1a fed to the needles of the knitting machine. In the figure, the individual yarn lengths consist of successive rows of plain (one-face) knit. The shear fibers 3 extend from the plane of the base knit and come from tufts of fibers fed in the manner described above into the hooks of the knitting machine needles, the free ends of which are oriented towards the front side of the base knit and form more or less dense pile. The tufts of filaments are fixed to the base knit in the form of arcs running together with the loops, always bound by another loop in the order of formation of the loops, and their ends always protrude from the previous loops on the reverse side of the knit. The original length of the pile, i. of course, the maximum possible distance of the faux fur side from the base knit 1 depends on the length of the chopped fibers 3. Typically, the pile is cut to length by shearing the ends of the chopped fibers to form a relatively flat outer surface 3a of the pile as shown in FIG. 3. When shearing, the chopped fibers can still be oriented in the desired direction, for example, more upright. There are other methods of mechanical treatment of the hair which can be made to achieve the desired texture or appearance of the hair.

Further, in FIG. 3, an additional layer 2, which may optionally be attached to the other side of the base knit, i.e. circular side of the artificial fur, the possibility of creating an additional layer 2 is discussed in the next.

The hair formed from the chopped fibers 3 is permanently attached to the basic knitted fabric also by means of a plastic material which can be melted or softened by heat; that is, the structure of FIG. 3 comprises a plastic material which has been melted or softened by heat treatment at the point where the chopped fiber 3 is in contact with the base knitwear 1 to such an extent that the chopped fibers are adhered to the base knit yarn i by means of a molten / softened plastic material it stiffened again when the temperature dropped. Fig. 4 is a cross-sectional view of the faux fur along line IV-IV in FIG. 3, i. in a direction perpendicular to the posts and wherein the connecting plastic material is located at the points of contact of the chopped fibers and the yarn and is designated by the letter B. Material surface B may be a plastic material in the chopped fibers 3, a plastic material in yarn 1b both. Correspondingly, the material surface can be formed by the surface material of the complementary surface 2 opposite the yarn 1a of the basic knitted fabric and the sheared fiber 3 at the point of contact thereof.

·· ····

The fusible plastic material may be bonding fibers or a portion of bonding fibers, or thermoplastics used as general elements of the structure of textile products, which may be fiber-shaped, or may be of a wider area, such as films.

Connecting fibers

When a thermally bondable plastic material is taken into the product, the maximum temperature prevailing in its use and maintenance conditions shall be taken into account. The base polymers for thermally bondable fibers are usually polyesters and polyamides. Here are the softening and melting points of some polymers:

polyvinyl chloride / PVC polyamide / PA polypropylene / PP polyethylene / PE

Ts 115-160 ° C Ts 170-190 ° C Ts 150 ° C Ts 85-90 ° C

Tm 160-180 ° C Tm 210-230 ° C Tm 160-170 ° C Tm 115 ° C.

Of the above, polyvinyl chloride and polyolefins (polypropylene and polyethylene), including copolymers based thereon, are suitable bonding fibers due to the thermal behavior. However, for some conditions of use and maintenance, the melting points of polyolefins, especially polyethylene, may be too low.

In the case of polyamides and polyesters, the melting points of the base polymers are reduced by comonomers (copolyamides and copolyesters), thereby achieving bonding fibers.

In order for the thermally bondable fibers to adhere firmly to the article to which they are to be attached (for example to a knit or fabric), the chemical composition of both must be similar. If this basic rule is respected, gluing problems are eliminated. If the raw material of the base product is a polyester (for example Dacron or Trevira), a copolyester, not polyolefin or polyamide, must be chosen as the thermally bondable fiber. In this way, sufficient thermal bond strength between the fibers of the different material layers is ensured. If the chemical composition of the bonding fibers is other than the base layer, a compatibility means shall be used to bond such materials together.

The bonding fibers to be joined by heat and pressure are divided into three different classes, namely adhesive fibers, melt adhesive fibers and bicomponent fibers.

• · · · · · · · · ·

- / - · · · · · · · · · ·

Adhesive fibers are usually melt-spun amorphous polyesters. Due to the lack of crystalline regions, these polymers will be surface-bonded when the temperature rises above 100 ° C for the first time, so that they can be calendered to the base material by pressure.

The melting point of the melt adhesive fibers must be lower than the base material to which they adhere by heat. To avoid damaging the base material, this temperature difference is sufficiently large, 50 to 100 ° C. The melting point in this case is usually less than 205 ° C, preferably less than 180 ° C. In order to give the softening and melting points the correct value, the chemical composition of the base polymer can be synthetically modified (copolymerization). These hot melt adhesive fibers are usually copolyesters or copolyamides. Homopolymers such as the above-mentioned PVC, PP and PE are also possible.

Two-component fibers to be used as binder fibers combine two components whose chemical compositions are different (e.g. PET and PE) or whose melting points are different. An example is a bicomponent polyester fiber in which one region to be used as a bonding agent melts at a low temperature of 100 to 110 ° C and the other region to melt at a higher temperature of 250 to 265 ° C.

The aforementioned tie fibers are available as staple fibers or filaments, and these types of fibers can be used to produce a yarn that may also contain different fibers in the blend.

Product alternatives

The following are some alternatives for achieving the above structures. In the following structures, a plastic material is present which melts or softens under the influence of heat in at least one of the following parts of the faux fur: in the pile fibers 3 forming the pile, in the base knitted fabric and in the additional layer 2. In the following alternatives as well as for the softening polymer material, in which the temperature rises due to external energy applied in such a way that the above-mentioned phenomena occur and the material gets sticky. There is always a change in the material state or surface properties from a solid state to a state that allows the parts to adhere to each other.

A) The fusible tie fibers are placed in the chopped fibers 3 forming the pile. The binding fiber content can vary from 0 to 100%. Case 0% relates to the alternative described in point D below.

-8 ································ · • ·· ·· ·· ·· ·

B) The fusible yarn or yarn is incorporated into the base knit yarn I by multiplication, doubling, double doubling or other textile method. The content of the connecting fibers (mono or multe) or yarns can range from 0 to 100%.

Case 0% relates to the alternative described in point D below.

C) Alternatives in points A and B at the same time, i. the staple fibers 3 comprise fusible tie fibers and the yarn of the base knitwear 1 comprises a fusible tie fiber or yarn.

In the previous articles at points A, B and C, the connecting plastic element, i. the bonding filament and / or the bonding filament or yarn melts or softens by means of conduction, convection or radiant heat and optionally pressure. If desired, a combination of different melting or softening methods may be used. Artificial fur with pile on both sides of the product can also be made from the product structures in points A, B and C. The hair is first mechanically attached to one side of the base fabric, then a portion of the hair is passed through the base fabric to the other side by a so-called combing process. In rowing (Rauhen, Germany), carding devices are used to pull the fibers out of the textile material, i.e.. in this case, to pull the pile fibers from the opposite side to the other side of the base knit.

D) No bonding fibers are mixed into the chopped fibers 3 forming the pile. In artificial fur, the staple fibers 3 of the pile or the yarn 1a of the basic knitwear, or both, are formed from thermoplastics used as general structural elements of textile goods whose chemical materials contain fusible polyolefins, polyvinyls, polystyrenes, polyacrylonitriles, polyacryls, fusible cellulose polymers, polyesters and polyesters. polycarbonates, polysulfones, polyamides, polyether oxides, i polyacetates, polyketones, polyurethanes, polyfluorides, thermoplastic elastomers such as diene-containing thermoplastics, elastomeric copolymers such as butadiene-containing elastomers, ethylene or propylene-containing elastomers, fluoroelastomers, silicone elastomers or various chemical combinations of polymers or mixtures of any of the above material, fibers or yarn. The hair or the base knit, or both, depending on the material, is melted by guided, convection or radiant heat and optionally by pressure. The requirement is that the temperature exceeds the melting point of the thermoplastic and that the effect is sufficiently long but at the same time sufficiently short.

• · ·

-9 • · ··

If desired, a combination of different melting methods may be used. The hair and the base knit are joined together by melting.

E) The base product, i. artificial fur with pile on one side of the basic knitted fabric without the admixtures of fusible connecting fibers in the pile fibers 3 forming the pile. On the smooth side, i. a film containing a thermoplastic on at least one side thereof is laminated to the back of the faux fur as an additional layer 2. The material may be the same as the above materials in the alternative in D, or they may be different chemical polymer combinations or mixtures thereof. The film may be wholly single thermoplastic, or may be coated with the same thermoplastic melt coating at a lower temperature, or may be coated with an adhesive web consisting of a fibrous thermoplastic or a local adhesive template having a melting point lower than the melting point of the film itself. . The layer 2 is melted onto the base knitted fabric by means of guided, convection or radiant heat and optionally by pressure. The film may have special properties, such as breathability, outside the wind and rain protection properties.

If desired, a combination of different melting methods may be used. The film may also be of a material other than a thermoplastic material when adjacent to the base fabric I of any of the aforementioned thermoplastic materials. The auxiliary layer 2 can also be a felt comprising at least on the surface a thermoplastic, and this felt can be formed from bonding fibers or a mixture of bonding fibers.

F) The alternative in point A wherein the film or felt is laminated to the smooth side, i. on the reverse side of the artificial fur of the materials and with alternatives according to the previous alternative in point E. The connection to the base knitwear i is carried out by the methods according to the alternative in point E.

G) The alternative in point B in which the smooth side, i.e. on the reverse side of the faux fur, the auxiliary layer 2 formed of the materials is laminated and, alternatively, in point E. The layer 2 is bonded to the base knit by the methods of the alternative in point E.

H) The alternative in point C in which the film or felt is laminated as a backing layer 2 to the smooth side, i. on the reverse side of artificial fur, made of materials and alternatives according to the alternative in point E. Connecting element. i hair fiber and fibers • ·

10 or the base knit yarn and the layer 2, are joined by the methods of the alternative in point E.

(I) A modified article the structure of which may correspond to points A, B, C, D, E, F, G or H, and in which two artificial pile fur pairs on one side of their basic knitted fabrics f are laminated together by means of the backing layer 2; the result is a faux fur coat on both sides of the product. The structures of the backing layer and the thermoplastic materials may correspond to the above.

Preferably, when a heat-bondable fibrous material is used on the pile or on the base knit, some of the meltable / softening plastic material and some of it will remain unchanged in the bonding. These different materials may be in a single fiber (bicomponent fibers) or in different fibers, using fiber mixtures in the hair and / or in the base knit.

The fiber mixture may comprise thermally bondable fibers and those synthetic fibers which do not change during bonding, for example, thermoplastic fibers with a high melting point. Staple fibers 3 of pile or base knitted fabric j. may contain, as an additional material component, in addition to thermoplastics, natural fibers (0 to 100%) in the hair or in the basic knitted fabric (cotton, linen, cotton, etc.) and thermoplastics such as thermoplastic coatings applied after thermal bonding of the hair (polyurethane bonding dispersion containing color pigments). It is also possible to laminate or otherwise attach to the surface of the aforementioned one-sided structures at points A to 1, for example by gluing, a textured or unshaped fabric or knitted fabric of natural fiber or synthetic or planar (xy plane) elements of textile or plastic technology. All parts of faux fur may be dyed or sampled by known dyeing methods or graphic printing processes.

If the pile of the faux fur is thermally bonded to the base knit, the feel of the article is that of the fabric. At the same time, the pile is fixed to the base knit by melting instead of mechanical fastening, i.e. the pile of the faux fur will not fall out during use and the faux fur will retain its functional properties, such as thermal insulation capability, which is very important for use. The thermal insulation (Re) capability of the artificial fur is at least at the limit of 0.10 Km ² / W or better (BS 4745: 1990).

····

Methods of thermal bonding of fusible bonding fibers

The thermal bonding methods must be chosen correctly to firmly attach the bonding fibers. The spun connecting fibers are bonded to each other primarily at the intersection points, i.e. between the adhesive material and / or between the adhesive and the base material. The following factors should be taken into account for thermal bonding:

principle of melting: guided, flowing, radiant heat

- operating principle of melter: heat or heat and pressure

- calibration equipment: calibration of the dimensions of the finished product

- cooling equipment: cooling of fusible bonding fibers - chemical structure of bonding fibers, content and quantity of various components; properties of the final product, such as touch and strength.

If the melting process is flow-based, more precisely on a gaseous medium, usually hot air, this process can be carried out by a stream of air passing through the product or by blowing to the surface of the product. The first method is generally used in the manufacture of coarse, porous, nonwoven goods, since the fibers of the inner parts can also be heated in this way. The through-flow effect is triple, but this benefit is lost if the air-permeability of the product is reduced. It is best to blow hot air to one or both sides to attach the pile fibers of the faux fur.

If the binder content of the shear fiber mixture increases relative to the base material, the bond strength also increases, albeit at the expense of hand. If the fiber content is too high, the final product will be brittle and hard. Better strength is obtained with bicomponent fibers than with single-component adhesive fibers, the volume fraction being the same. The final result also depends on the number of points of contact between the connecting fibers as well as on the possible compression force used. The pile fibers of the artificial fur are fastened so that the pile length (protruding from the plane of the basic knit) is from 1 to 50 mm. The length of the pile of the faux fur depends on the length of the fibers to be fed and the adjustment of the shearing step. The staple fibers containing the meltable / softenable plastic material are in the form of a strand of a hair forming machine and / or fibers or yarns comprising a meltable / softenable material and are fed into the knitting machine simultaneously with the yarn forming the stitches.

Other possible ways of attaching the base product, i. synthetic fur, include placing the backing layer 2 on the reverse side in the following ways:

- lamination technique of a moisture and air barrier plastic film • · ·

- 12-melt impregnation or coating of the smooth side of the knitted fabric in the faux fur with a melt of plastic (for example, by modifying the paper coating process), where the molten thermoplastic forms a uniform film after solidification also constitutes a moisture and air barrier. by heat bonding in an oven or calender, also forming a uniform bonding film.

As a basic rule, it must be noted that both the pile fiber 3 and the loop yarns 1a of the faux fur knitwear must have a meltable component in order to connect the two elements together well. It is also sufficient for the purpose of the invention that one of these elements comprises a meltable component. If the fusible component is used in only one of these elements, it is preferred that one more fusible component is used in the additional layer 2. If there is no fusible component in either of the two elements, the additional layer 2 is needed to achieve a thermal bond.

Advantages of thermal bonding compared to gluing

By using fusing / softening fibers and thermal bonding in the manufacture of faux fur, we achieve the following advantages over conventional adhesives and the like (bonding with chemical adhesives):

- a softer textile feel is achieved in the final product

- the end products can be almost completely (100%) recycled, since the chemical composition of the connecting fibers can be chosen the same as for a basic knit or fabric saving energy by omitting water evaporation. Only one quarter to one sixth (1/4 - 1/6) of thermal energy will be required to melt the bonding fibers compared to bonding with adhesives.

no coupling agents or thermal fixation is required. The production process is safe for the environment because no waste water will be generated and no air will be blown out.

the choice of the connecting fibers can influence the properties of the end product, such as flexibility and fire resistance.

- 13 ·· ·· · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The invention is illustrated by the following non-limiting examples.

Thermal bonding tests for hair

Fusible fibers were added to the pile or to the faux fur knit.

In the first case, meltable staple fibers (15-50% by weight) were added to the strand of the carding machine, and in the second case the fibers were fed into a knitting machine with a knitting yarn (multiplication or doubling) First, the tests were conducted under strictly controlled laboratory conditions; then under industrial conditions. During the tests, the times and temperatures were calculated theoretically to give the best number of practical tests.

Attaching the pile fibers of the base product, i. artificial fur, was done in three different ways:

1. Martindale method, SFS 4328 (Textiles. Determination of abrasion resistance of textiles. Martindale method) Determination of product weight loss after loading Qualitative method

2. Pilling Method, SFS 3378 (Textiles. Determination of Textile Resistance to Pilling) Determination of Weight Loss of Product after Load Qualitative Method

3. Tensile strength test, modified by SFS 3189 (Textile floor coverings - Determination of pile pulling force) Measurement of the force required to pull pile fibers from the base fabric (in

Determination of normalized results by dividing the force (N) required to pull the hair fibers by their mass (mg)

- the quantitative method.

After the thermal bonding was established, untreated, i. non - glued and bonded artificial fur.

- 14Example 1

Fusible fibers in the hair of artificial fur, fastening in hot air frame

The artificial fur was made in a single cylinder circular knitting machine. A commercially available Wellbond TO 109 bonding fiber (Wellman International Ltd.) was used to replace the commercially available polyester Dacron T 688 (DuPont) used as a pile. Wellbond TO 109 is a two-component polyester fiber (coPET / PET) whose surface melts at a low temperature> 110 ° C and the core melts at 255 ° C. The basic sample in the thermal bonding tests was a T351 faux fur of the following structure:

- basic knitted fabric

PET 167/32 x 1 ecru 100% by weight hair Dacron T688 (PET) 4.7 / 35 50% by weight Wellbond TO 109 (coPET / PET) 5.3 / 55 50% by weight pretty 100% by weight.

The fusible fibers were affixed to the polyester fibers of the base fabric in an Ernst Benz continuous laboratory frame. At the final adjustment of the process parameters, the product properties were optimized between the touch and the attachment of the hair fibers so that the level of each property was sufficient. The faux fur containing fusible hair fibers were heated in a Benz continuous laboratory furnace whose upper flap (Klappe) is open (auf) and the lower flap (Klappe) is closed (zu). The examinations themselves contained three different break times.

The basis weight of the artificial fur was 240 g / m. At room temperature (20 ° C) as the starting temperature and test break time (FRAME), see Table 1:

Table 1

Air temperature values and break time for FRAME tests

sample Air temperature (actual value) (° C) Sample Temperature (Target) (° C) Sample break times (actual value) (with) Frame 1 160 155 120 Frame 2 180 160 70 Frame 3 200 160 50

• ·

• · · · · · · · · ·

- 1 sec. - · · ·

The sample was placed with the hair side down in the holder. Furthermore, the artificial fur must be tensioned in the frame holder so that it is subjected to tensile strength. The hair side of the frame is covered with a heat resistant material, such as an aluminum coated fabric. Air heating was performed on the reverse side, i. on the side of the basic knit.

The test result is shown in FIG. 5. The first number after the product code T351 indicates the processing temperature and the second number the duration. The pilling test curves show that the adhesion of the pile of the faux fur to the heat-treated basic knit increases, but at the same time it becomes harder to the touch.

Example 2

Fusible fiber in the hair faux fur, fastening by hot metal surface

The artificial fur was made on a single cylinder circular knitting machine. The commercially available fusible bond Wellbond TO 109 (Wellman International Ltd.) was used to replace the portion of commercially available Dacron T 688 polyester (DuPont) used as a pile. Wellbond TO 109 is a two-component polyester fiber (coPET / PET) whose surface melts at low temperature> 110 ° C and core at high temperature 255 ° C. In thermal bonding tests, the basic sample was a T351 faux fur of the following structure:

basic knitwear

PET 167/32 x 1 ecru 100% by weight hair Dacron T688 (PET) 4.7 / 35 50% by weight Wellbond TO 109 (coPET / PET) 5.3 / 33 50% by weight

total_100% by weight.

The fusible fiber contained in the hair of the faux fur was heated by means of a metal plate. For this purpose, a device has been used in which a pair of electrically heated plates (e.g. Fixotest) are used. In the final adjustment of the process parameters, the product properties are optimized between the touch and the attachment of the hair fibers so that the value of each property is sufficient.

The faux fur containing fusible hair fibers of a basis weight of 240 g / m was heated with a medium pair of plates in a Fixotest. Only the upper plate was heated to a given temperature (Table 2). The bottom plate switch was left in position 0, thus not warming up. When the surface of the faux fur knit is subjected to a sudden temperature change, the heat is transferred to the solid material (conduction) immediately and one-dimensionally. The sudden rise in the initial phase of the temperature effect on the surface of the solid material can be calculated to a given depth, with no heat being applied to the inner parts of the package yet.

The series of self-tests contained three durations (denoted by index 1, 2 and 3); at the same time the predicted amount of air contained in the artificial fur (porosity) was 20%. The test temperatures and duration (FIXO) are given in Table 2.

Table 2

Delay time values depending on the temperature of the hot metal surface in the FIXO tests

sample Metal surface temperature Ts (° C) Target temperature T (0,5) t of sample (° C) Sample warm-up times t (s) Fixo 1 160 155 899 = 15 minutes Fixo 2 180 160 71 Fixo 3 200 160 22

The sample is placed with the hair side down in the Fixotest, with the faux fur knitted fabric facing the hot metal surface. The hot metal surface will melt the fusible fibers contained in the hair to adhere to the base fabric during the calculated exposure time. The hair of the faux fur as such shall in no case be melted, as this would affect the feel and volume of the product. The center top plate of the Fixotest is facing the bottom plate, leaving a sample between them. The sample shall be subjected to a nominal pusher:

P = F / A (1) where F = m. g = top plate force m = plate weight (1 kg) g = gravity acceleration (9,81 m / s)

A = surface area of the board (0.05.0.11 m ² = 0.0055 m ²⁾ .

A sample of faux fur that is placed loosely between the boards of the device

The pressure test is 1.8 kPa.

The test result is shown in FIG. 6. The first number after the product code T 351 indicates the processing temperature and the second number the duration. By means of a hot metal surface, the pile containing the fusible fibers can be attached to the basic knitted fabric better than by hot air. If • · · · ♦ · · · ·

The temperature of the metal surface exceeds the melting point of the bonding fiber, the pile practically does not separate from the basic knit.

Example 3

Fusible fiber in the base fabric of faux fur, fastening in hot air frame

The fusible tie fibers may be blended into the pile of the faux fur or the base knit. In the first case, the meltable staple fibers were added to a card from a carding machine (50% by weight) and then melted in the frame (hot air stream). In this way, the same bond strength of the pile and the base knit was achieved as with the cross-linked adhesive.

In the second case, the polyester filament (PET 167f32x2) of the base yarn of the basic knitted fabric was doubled with a two-component multi-filament yarn (coPET / PET 278Π6) in which the fiber surface is low melting PET (160-205 ° C) and the core is conventional PET (250 260 ° C).

The data for the fibers to be combined are given below:

I PET 167f32x2

- fineness 167 dtex yarn diameter: 124 Tm

II Kanebo CoPET / PET 278fl 6

- fineness 278 dtex yarn diameter: 160 Tm.

The first is the yarn of the basic knitted fabric in faux fur and the second is the fusible bicomponent fiber. Based on the linear densities of the components, the melt fiber content in the twin yarn (167 dtex + 278 dtex) is 62.5% by weight.

These fibers were combined in an annular twin-band machine (eg Z80). Then, the yarn obtained is divided into 12 bobbins of a flange winding machine, and then the artificial fur is produced in a single-cylinder circular knitting machine as described above.

The artificial fur identified by code T 416 has the following structure: basic knit (167 dtex + 278 dtex) Z50 = 650 dtex. PET 167f32x2 + PET / PET 278f 16

- hair • · · «· · · ·

- 18 ·· · i · i · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·. PET Trevira T 290, 3.3 dtex, 28mm.

The artificial fur containing the fusible fibers is heated in a Benz continuous laboratory furnace whose upper flap (Klappe) is open (auf) and the lower flap (Klappe) is closed (zu). The self-test series includes three different durations. The surface density of the artificial fur is 320 g / m ² .

The temperatures and duration used in the tests (FRAME 2) are given in Table 3.

Table 3

Air temperature and duration values for FRAME 2 tests

sample Air temperature θι (actual value) (° C) Air temperature 0 (target) (° C) Duration (actual value) (with) Frame 1/2 160 155 145 Frame 2/2 180 160 90 Frame 3/2 200 160 65

The sample is placed in the holder with the hair side facing down (to expose it to a stream of hot air). In the same holder, the artificial fur must also be tensioned to be subjected to tensile stress. The hair side of the sample is protected by a heat-resistant material, for example an aluminum-coated material.

The test result is shown in FIG. 7. The first number after the product code T 416 indicates the processing temperature and the second number is the duration. The fixing of the pile of the artificial fur is improved by heat treatment. The fusible fiber appears to have a better effect in the hair (Fig. 5) than in the base knit (Fig. 7). If the fusible fiber is in the base knit, the hair remains soft despite the heat treatment.

Example 4

Fixation of faux fur hair with plastic fdm

The artificial fur was made on a single cylinder circular knitting machine. This artificial fur designated by product code T 513 has the following structure: the structure of artificial fur (no fusible fibers in the hair). basic knitted fabric: PET 167 / 32x2 100% by weight. HAIR: Dacron T 688 (35mm) 35%, 8mm

- 19 · © · 19 19 19 19 19 19 19 19 19 19

Dralon BRT (28mm) 65%, 8mm.

The hair consists of a mixture of polyacrylic Dralon L BRT 3.3 / 28 (Bayer) apolyester

Dacron T 688 4.7 / 35 (DuPont), i.e., contains no component meltable at processing temperatures. The basis weight of the artificial fur was 350 g / m. The non-glued faux fur was provided with a breathable plastic coating protecting against wind and rain. The plastic film attaches the pile of the faux fur to the base knit.

The thermoplastic film was laminated to the surface of the faux fur knit.

A film of the following characteristics was used in the test:

I Porelle 55 (Porvair PLC) polyester urethane

- perforated film

- diameter of common hole: 1 Tm

- film thickness: 55 + -5 Tm

- opaque, white film

- hydrostatic pressure resistance (BS 3424 method 29C): 700 cm bEO / min = 0.69 bar

- water vapor permeability (ASTM E96B): 650 750 g / (m ² .d)

II Symbatex (Enka) polyester hydrophilic film

- film thickness: 10 Tm

- transparent, colorless film

- hydrostatic pressure resistance:> 1 bar

- water vapor permeability:> 2 500 g / (m .d)

III Pebatex (Elf Atochem) polyester amide hydrophilic film film thickness: 15 Tm

- transparent, colorless film

- resistance to hydrostatic pressure (DIN 53886). > 1 bar

- water vapor permeability (ASTM E 96 BX): 25 000 g / (m ² .d).

The films were affixed to the base fabric of the faux fur in an adhesive press (Meyer

KF600), in which the product passed between two heated rubber bands. On the • · · · · ·

At the beginning of the line, the film was heated above the melting point and at the end the film was fixed by pressing against the surface of the goods. The film was fused to the surface of the faux fur.

Three sample laminates were formed. The bottom material of the laminate was a faux fur to which a water-impermeable liquid film, but permeable to water vapor, was thermally bonded. If necessary, a thin adhesive web made of polyurethane was used. The sticky web data is given below;

manufacturer: Applied Extrusion Technologies Ltd (England)

- Product name: Sharnet SH 151

- material: polyurethane melting zone (DSC measurement): 110-145 ° C lamination temperature zone: 150 and 170 ° C.

The second adhesive web used was Sharnet SH 2402, made of polyamide. The processing conditions are shown in Table 4. An adhesive web was used together with hydrophilic films, i. samples 2 and 3. Porelle films (sample 1) contain densely spaced sticky spots of molten plate which adhere to the article to be coated.

Table 4

Air temperature, duration and compressive load values for tests

A movie Upper belt temperature (control value) (° C) Sample duration (actual value) (s) Sample loading by compression (control value) (N / cm ² ) Sample 1 Porelle 55 (without glue web) 140 22 9 Sample 2 Symbatex / Adhesive Web: Sharnet SH 151 160 22 9 Sample 3 Pebatex / Adhesive Web: Sharnet SH 2402 160 22 9

• · ·

If a plastic film is laminated to the faux fur, non-glued hair fibers are attached to the base fabric. This can be seen in FIG. 8, which shows the effect of a laminated plastic film on the attachment of the hair when the artificial fur does not contain a fusible bonding fiber. These samples are non-glued artificial fur T 351 and T 513. The best sample is laminated with Symbatex film. The lamination of the plastic film completely replaces the sticking of the faux fur hair; at the same time, a breathable waterproof and airtight product is obtained.

By means of a breathable plastic film protecting against wind and rain, it is possible to make the faux fur impermeable to, for example, air and water flow (Figs. 9 and 10). Fig. 9 shows the effect of laminated plastic film on the air permeability of artificial fur T 513; and FIG. 10 shows the effect of a laminated plastic film on hydrostatic pressure resistance. According to the measurement results, we can briefly say that only the abrasion resistance of laminated samples is clearly less than that of glued faux fur. The wear resistance of the laminated samples can be improved by coating the plastic film with a very thin knit or fabric. This also makes it possible to provide the surface of the artificial fur with any sample. Furthermore, the feel of such a product is entirely textile-like, i.e. better than faux fur bonded with adhesive emulsion.

The laminated samples are breathable, their water vapor permeability is the same as that of uncoated T 513 faux fur. Furthermore, laminated faux fur is airtight because it is practically not air permeable. The hydrostatic pressure resistance of the laminated products is more than 10 m; the corresponding value for bonded faux fur is only 1 to 5 cm. The best bee product in this range is faux fur coated with Symbatex.

Claims (14)

·· ··· ·· ·· ·· ··· PATENT REQUIREMENTS (to be resumed, with claim 1 modified) Artificial fur in which the chopped fibers (3) are mechanically blended into the base knit (1) formed from the yarn (1a) so that they protrude from the level of the base knit (1) and form a pile on the outside of the faux fur, 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the chopped fibers (3) mixed into the base knit (1) are attached to the base knit (1) as a result of thermal bonding by plastic material softened and / or melted by heat. The artificial fur according to claim 1, characterized in that the thermal bonding is made by means of chopped fibers (3) mixed into the basic knitted fabric (1) and containing the plastic material softened and / or melted by heat. The artificial fur according to claim 1, characterized in that the thermal bonding is made by means of a yarn (1a) in the basic knitted fabric (1) comprising a plastic material softened and / or melted by heat. The artificial fur according to claim 2 or 3, characterized in that the thermal bonding is made by means of both the yarn (1a) in the base knit (1) and the chopped fibers (3) mixed into the base knit. The artificial fur according to claim 1, characterized in that the thermal bonding is made by means of an additional layer (2) located on the reverse side of the basic knitwear (1), containing the plastic material softened and / or melted by heat, against the basic knitwear (1). ). The artificial fur according to claim 5, characterized in that the yarn (1a) of the basic knitwear (1) and / or the cut fibers (3) mixed into the basic knitwear also comprise a plastic material softened and / or melted by heat. -23 ·· ··· ·· ·· ·· ··· Artificial fur according to claim 2 or 4, characterized in that the chopped fibers (3) mixed into the basic knitted fabric (1) comprise bonding fibers, the component of which is a plastic material softened and / or melted by the heat. Artificial fur according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that the yarn (1a) of the basic knitted fabric (1) comprises a connecting thread, the component of which is formed by a plastic material softened and / or melted by heat. The artificial fur according to claim 2, 3, 4, 6, 7 or 8, characterized in that the chopped fibers (3) mixed into the basic knitted fabric or the basic knitted fabric (1) also contain other fiber material, other than fibers containing plastic material. softened / melted by heat. Method for producing artificial fur according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the heat treatment is carried out by guided heat. Method according to claim 10, characterized in that the heat treatment is carried out by passing the basic knitted fabric (1) and the additional layer (2) optionally attached to its reverse side, through a heated surface. Method for producing the artificial fur according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the heat treatment is carried out by convection. Method for producing artificial fur according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the heat treatment is carried out by radiant heat. Method according to any one of the preceding claims 10 to 13, characterized in that in addition to heat treatment, pressure has also been applied to the fixing.