FI108650B - Artificial fur and process for its production - Google Patents

Description

108650

Faux fur and the method of its manufacture

The invention relates to the artificial fur disclosed in the preamble of claim 1. The invention also relates to a process for making artificial fur. The following describes the use of artificial fur and its known manufacture and structure.

Using Faux Fur ίο Faux fur is a knit with a fiber pile. It is a soft, airy, lightweight and heat-insulating product. The traditional applications of high-pile or sliver pile fur are outerwear and shoe lining. Technical applications include furniture upholstery materials, hospital technical products, polishing discs and paint rollers. By increasing the basis weight of the non-woven pile fabric, it is possible to make either fur-lined fur with inward facing or faux fur with outer lint. Because of the smooth surface of the knitted fur coat, it can be dyed into a variety of patterns.

20 Manufacture of faux fur: The mechanical bonding of the faux fur materials is carried out: ···: directly on a knitting machine. In practice, faux fur is manufactured using a single-cylinder circular knitting machine. The bottom knit yarns are fed to lap-25-blade flap needles, which are also fed with a staple fiber r.mm flowing. The staple fibers attach to the peeling roller, which combs the fibers in the right direction and passes them on to the knitting machine needles that have risen to receive the fibers from the roller. To ensure that the fibers remain in the needle hooks and are oriented to the feed point 30, air is blown toward the center of the circular knitting machine through a narrow slot. As the needles begin to fall with the staple fiber bundles adhered to them, they are fed a loop forming the actual knit, which, after the needles have passed through the loops of the previous row, binds the staple fiber bundles to a smooth knit. In particular, the knitting step for obtaining a faux fur dressing is described in European Patent 0 091 025 and International Publication WO 95/25191.

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DD 122 558 also discloses a method of making a fur-like textile structure in which the textile-technical bond between the lint-forming fibrous material and the base fabric is made by sewing knitting technology (Saw-knitting technique) represented by the "MALIMCT" technology developed in the former DDR, with its various subspecies. According to DD 122 558, a second textile layer is glued, for example by means of a heated film, to the backside of the base material, and then this base mat of fabric is glued. -15 can be pulled away in the direction of the pile fibers, whereby the pile fibers formed from the aforementioned sewing threads remain attached to the film on the outer surface of the product.

Em. The filamentous textile products 20 produced by sewing knitting technique are also described in DE 1,938,970. Prior to sewing, a second nonwoven fabric or film of thermoplastic material is placed on the base material and the yarns are inserted through the layer structure thus obtained. By heating the base material, it thereby makes the thermoplastic material as an auxiliary layer melt and bind f · ': 25 pile of sewing threads better to the base material.

. ·: ·. In addition, there are other ways of making the fur material more or less resembling fur on the surface of the base material and improving its stability. However, it is an object of the present invention to provide a structure for a fleece just in the form of a fibrous knit, i.e. a faux fur with a base fabric material being a knit and a lint formed of knitted yarn separate from staple fibers attached to the knit loops.

35 The staple fiber staple is mechanically fixed during the knitting phase, so the bond is not strong. Therefore, according to the prior art, the pile fibers are bonded to the bottom knit, for example by emulsion glue. The durability of faux fur is improved by gluing.

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Dispersion is normally used as adhesives. They are two-component systems in which one phase is dispersed or discontinuous and the other phase continuous. The dispersions are known to fall into four classes, namely suspensions, emulsions, foams and aerosols.

Textile adhesives are generally emulsions (both the dispersed and the continuous phase are liquid) or suspensions (the dispersed phase is solid and continuous liquid) in which the dispersed phase has a particle size of 10. For colloidal dispersion, the discontinuous phase may have a lower particle size of 3-5 cm x 10 7 cm and an upper limit of 0.2 x 10 4 cm.

In general, a liquid dispersion adhesive consisting of a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed polymeric phase, which may be solid or liquid, is commonly used for gluing artificial fur. During application, the adhesive partially penetrates into the structure. Normally, the faux fur lint is glued with a latex in which polyvinyl acetate (PVA) is dispersed in the aqueous phase as a binder. Other binders include e.g. polyolefins (PO), copolymers of polyamide (PA), polyesters (eg 20 coPET) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC). The adhesive may also be a paste in which the aqueous phase is admixed with a high proportion of powdered ethyl vinyl acetate copolymer (EVA), polyethylene (PE) or copolyamide (CoPA).

It is also known to use two-component adhesives such as urethane:: **: 25 adhesives containing isocyanate and polyol. Even these adhesives i · .. are very fluid, liquid and penetrate into the structure.

Stabilized latex or paste is passed over the fake fur-smooth side, for example, by applying a foamed adhesive with knife coating. The adhesive penetration into the knitting structure is controlled by surfactants. The faux fur is then guided to the frame where the adhesive layer is heat fixed. The smooth surface of the bonded faux fur has a hard feel due to the rigidity of the * ': fixed polyvinyl acetate layer.

35 If the woolen knit fabric is made of kelp, its glued smooth surface may be dyed. Typically, inks consisting of inorganic or organic pigments and a binder and thickener are used. The latter may be e.g. polyvinyl acetate i 4 108650! (PVA). Color is driven onto the fake fur-smooth side, followed by | the binder is heat fixed in the frame. Pigment inks with binders make the product feel hard.

i 5 Bonding nowadays is a separate step in the production of faux fur, which requires its own devices for handling fluid dispersion adhesives, such as devices for producing glue for dispensing and devices for dispensing glue. In addition, the adhesive has a detrimental effect on the structure of the faux fur, for example, the feeling deteriorates.

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It is an object of the invention to provide an alleviation of the above drawbacks and to provide an artificial fur which has a better structure and is suitable for different applications as well or better than previously known structures and which is also simpler to manufacture. To accomplish this purpose, an artificial fur is essentially characterized by what is set forth in the characterizing part of the appended claim 1. By utilizing heat-softening or softening plastic material, which may be a structural fibrous part of the faux fur (staple fiber or yarn), or a layer or part of a layer applied to the back thereof, the faux fur obtains properties closer to its fibrous structure without additional adhesives. At the same time, gluing devices are avoided, and •: they can be replaced by simpler heating devices.

For other preferred embodiments of the invention, reference is made to the following dependent claims and the following description.

The invention will now be described in more detail with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which: Fig. 1 is a block diagram of a method of making a lintel according to the invention, »Fig. 2 schematically illustrates one step of making a lintel; Figure 5 108650 shows a detail of a faux fur structure, and Figures 5 to 10 show the results of the experiments performed by the invention.

Figure 1 is a block diagram of a process for manufacturing faux fur. The process comprises the following steps: A) feeding the base knit yarn and feeding the lint forming staple fibers B) mechanically attaching the staple fibers to the base knit during its formation, C) cutting the outer surface of the lint and possible mechanical treatment of the lint, D) heat treatment to permanently attach the lint and (E) further processing.

Figure 2 shows one example of the manufacture of faux fur. The bottom knit is made by feeding the bottom knit yarns 1a to the needle flap needles 4 of the neu-15, which are also fed with pile-forming staple fibers 3 from the peeling roll 5. This step is described in more detail below under "Faux Fur Production" and related technology described in WO 95/25191.

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Faux fur structures

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: · * ·: The following terms are used in this connection: 25 - Fiber material: staple fiber or filament. Fibrous material also includes microfibers which have become commonplace in the textile industry. By definition, in Europe, microfibers are less than 1 denier, while elsewhere, the upper limit is 0.7 denier.

Staple fiber: a fiber material consisting of a plurality of discontinuous fibers having a specific finite length or length distribution, including microfibre grade fibers.

- Filament: Continuous fiber as opposed to staple fiber, including microfiber grade fibers.

Yarn: a yarn of staple fibers or of one or more filaments.

Figure 3 shows the structure of the faux fur. The left side shows the bottom knit 1 as seen from the wrong side, and the right side shows a cross-section of the artificial 10 108650 fur parallel to the level of the faux fur. The fuzzy structure of the faux fur linen is a base knit 1 consisting of a thread of yarn 1a fed to the needles of a knitting machine. In the figure, the threads of yarn 5 form successive rows of smooth knit stitches. At the bottom of the base fabric, staple fibers 3 emanate from fiber bundles fed into the needle hooks of the knitting machine as described above and whose free ends extend towards the front of the base fabric 1 to form a more or less dense pile depending on the feed density of the staple fibers. The bundles of fibers are attached as loops in the bottom knit with the loops, always in the order of the loops, held by the next loop, and their two ends appearing on the wrong side of the knit all the way through the previous loop. The original length of the pile, i.e. the maximum distance of the front surface of the faux fur from the bottom knit 1, naturally depends on the length of the staple fibers 3. The pile is normally smoothed by cutting the ends of the staple fibers to obtain a relatively flat outer surface 3a of the pile shown in Figure 3. During cutting, the staple fibers can be further oriented in the desired direction, for example more upright. There are also other methods of mechanically treating the pile which can be performed to give the pile the desired structure or appearance.

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'·. · * Fig. 3 further shows a dashed line of an additional layer 2 possibly attached to the other side of the bottom 25 of the knitted fabric 1, i.e. the back of the faux fur, the alternatives for forming of which are discussed below.

: The staple fiber formed by staple fibers 3 is permanently attached to the bottoms · · ... 30 by heat-melting or softening plastic mat, i.e. the structure of Figure 3 has a plastic material that has melted or softened to such an extent after heat treatment, :. where the staple fiber 3 is in contact with the base knit 1 that the staple fiber is bonded to the yarn 1a of the base knit 1 after melting / softening and the temperature decreasing again through the solidified plastic material.

Figure 4 is a cross-sectional view of the faux fur taken along line IV-IV in Figure 3, i.e. a section perpendicular to the loop stiffeners, and such binding plastic material at the junction of staple fibers and yarn is represented by B. Material region B may consist of plastic material or a combination of both. Correspondingly, the material region may be derived from the surface material 5 of the additional layer 2, which is opposite the bottom yarn 1a and the staple fibers 3 at their junction.

Connective Fibers io When choosing a thermoplastic material for the product, the highest temperatures that will be encountered during its operation and maintenance are to be taken into account. Most commonly, the base polymers of the heat-binding fibers are polyesters and polyamides. The softening and melting points of some polymers are shown below:

- polyvinyl chloride / PVC: mp = 115-160 ° C; Tm = 160-180 ° C

1 - polyamide / PA: Mp = 170-190 ° C; Tm = 210-230 ° C

- polyester / PET: Mp = 230-240 ° C; Tm = 245-260 ° C

- polypropylene / PP: mp = 150 ° C; Tm = 160-170 ° C

20 - polyethylene / PE: Mp = 85-90 ° C, Tm = 115 ° C

Of these, polyvinyl chloride and polyolefins (polypropylene and polyethylene), including the copolymers based thereon, though suitable for polyolefins, in particular poly-; The ethylene melting points may be too low for some operating and maintenance conditions.

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In the case of polyamides and polyesters, the melting point of the base polymers is lowered with the help of comonomers (copolyamides and copolymers%, esters) to obtain the bonding fibers.

I · · »- '* · In order for the heat-binding fiber to adhere firmly to the article to be bonded (eg knitwear or fabric), the chemical structure of both must be, I ·, identical. By following this rule of thumb, adhesion problems are avoided. If the base product is made of polyester (eg Dacron or Trevira), the choice of thermoforming fibers shall be copolyester, not polyolefin or polyamide. Thus, sufficient strength of the fiber bond between the fibers of different material layers is ensured. If the chemical structure of the binder fiber 8 108650 is different from that of the base layer, a compatibilizer that couples the substances must be used.

Classification of Binding Fibers 5 Binding fibers of heat and pressure, referred to in items 1 to 6 below. and 9-11. can be divided into three categories, namely adhesive fibers, fusible adhesive fibers, and bi-component fibers.

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Adhesive fibers are usually melt spun amorphous polyesters. Due to the lack of crystalline regions, these polymers become sticky on the surface when the temperature first rises above 100 ° C, whereby they can be calendered to the base material by pressure. Naturally, the component j of the binary or fibrous product may be an adhesive plastic. In addition, by orienting the fiber it is possible to increase the crystallinity of the material.

The adhesive fibers to be melted must have a melting point lower than 20 of the base material to which they are bonded by heat. Normally, this temperature difference is large enough, 50-100 ° C, to avoid damage to the base material. The melting point is then generally below 205 ° C, preferably below 180 ° C. To obtain the softening and melting points desired, the chemical structure of the base polymer may have been modified synthetically (copolymerization). Such fusible adhesive fibers · * Are usually copolyesters or copolyamides. Homopolymers are: '·· also possible, such as the PVC, PP and PE mentioned above.

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The bi-component fiber used as a binder fiber combines two components with different chemical structures (e.g., PET and ·, * :: PE) or with different melting points. An example is a two-component polyester fiber, the surface of which melts at a low temperature of 100-110 ° C and a core at a high temperature of 250-265 ° C. There are:: 'a variety of non-structural bi-component fibers:: 35 - sheath / core ·: ··: - side by side island (in the sea) block (citrus).

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Commercially, all of the fiber types described above are available in various forms: staple 5 - filament (continuous), mono or multifilament.

helical yarn, of staple fibers or filaments.

The latter can also combine two different polymers of chemical structure.

product Options

Alternatives for achieving the above permanently attached structure are described below. In the following structures, the heat-meltable or softening plastic material is present in at least one of the following artificial fur components: Pile-forming staple fiber 3, bottom knit 1 and additional layer 2. In the following alternatives, the word "meltable" is used to mean both meltable and softening polymeric material. temperature rise so that the above phenomena occur and the material becomes tacky.

1. A basic product, i.e. a tuft having a pile on one side of a base fabric 1! 25 furry whiskers whose lint-forming staple fibers 3 are doped with molten; via connective fibers. The proportion of binder fibers may vary from 0 to 100%.

'' 2. A basic product, i.e., a pile of faux fur having a pile on one side of a base fabric 1, in which a melting binder filament or yarn 30 is joined to yarn 1a of the base fabric 1 by duplication, multiplication, multiplication or other textile techniques. The proportion of binding filaments (mono or multi) or -: i: yarns may vary from 0 to 100%.

3. The basic product, namely, a tufted fleece of one side of the base knit 1, of which the flax-forming staple fibers 3 are doped with melting fiber and the yarn 1a of the base knit 1 is combined by means of amplification, multiplication, multiplication or other textile techniques. ··: Fusible binding filament or yarn. The proportion of both binder fibers and binder filaments or yarns may vary from 0 to 100%.

10 108650 4. A modified product, that is to say, a synthetic fleece with a lint on both sides of the product, in which the lint-forming staple fibers are doped with melting binder fibers. The proportion of binder fibers may vary from 0 to 100%.

5. Modified product, that is to say fleece-artificial fur 5 on both sides of the product, in which the flax binding filament or yarn is assembled by yarn 1a of the base fabric 1, amplified by repeating, twisting, multiplying or by other textile techniques. The proportion of binding filaments or yarns may vary from 0% to 100%.

A modified article, that is to say a faux-artificial fur on both sides of the product, whose flax-forming staple fibers 3 are doped with melting binder fibers and whose yarn 1a of the base knit 1 is combined with a melting binder filament or yarn by duplicating, twisting, multiplying or otherwise. The proportion of both binder fibers and binder filaments or yarns may vary from 0 to 100%.

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Previous items 1-6. the binding plastic component, i.e. the bonding fiber and / or the binding filament or yarn, has been melted or softened by conduction, convection or radiation heat and possibly by pressure. Combinations of different melting or softening methods can be used as required. Displaying 4 to 6 of products. the lint is first mechanically bonded to one side of the base knit, after which part of the lint is so-called. pörhis-. in the stitching process made to pass through the bottom knit in response to the stitched side. In sweeping (German for Peace) you pull with moving ,, ··. carding means out of the fibers, ie in this case,. ·. 25 pile fibers from the opposite side of the sole to the other side.

I · 7. A basic product, i.e., a textile fur of a lint on one side of a base knit 1, whose flax-forming staple fibers 3 are not doped with melting binder fibers. Synthetic staple fibers of man-made staple fibers 3 or of yarn (1) (1) or (2) of woven fabric made from thermoplastic materials commonly used in the manufacture of textile products, consisting of meltable polyolefins, polyvinyls, polystyrenes, polyacrylonitriles, polyacrylonitriles, , polyesters and carbonates, polysulfones, poly-35-olimides, polyether acetals or polyacetals, polyketones, polyurethanes, polyfluorides, thermoplastic elastomers such as diene-containing thermoplastics, elastomeric elastomers containing butadiene-10, , silicone elastomers or various chemical composite polymers or mixtures of all the foregoing, whether in the form of material, fiber, filament or yarn. The pile or bottom knit, or both, depending on the materials, is melted by conduction, convection, or radiation 5 heat and possibly pressure. The condition is that the temperature exceeds the melting point of the thermoplastic and that the effect is long enough but short enough. Combinations of different melting methods can be used as needed. The pile and bottom knit bind to one another by melting.

ίο 8. A basic product, namely a linen knitted fleece of one side of a base knit 1, in which the lint-forming staple fibers 3 are not doped with melting binder fibers. On the smooth side or back of the faux fur is an additional layer 2 laminated with at least a surface of thermoplastic. The material may be fusible polyolefins, polyvinyls, polystyrenes, polyacrylonitriles, polyacrylics, fusible cellulose polymer derivatives, polyesters and carbonates, polysulfones, polyimides, polyether oxides or polyacetals, polyketones, thermoplastics, elastomeric copolymers such as butadiene-containing elastomers, ethylene- or propylene-containing elastomers, fluoroelastomers, silicone elastomers, or various chemical composite polymers or mixtures thereof. The film may be entirely of the same thermoplastic or may have a lower melting thermoplastic. a continuous surface layer or on its surface may be fibrous, v. 25 a thermoplastic adhesive tape or a spot-glue pattern having a melting point lower than the actual film. The layer 2 is fused to the base fabric 1 by conduction, convection or radiation heat and possibly by pressure. The membrane may have special properties such as being breathable in addition to wind and rain protection.

• ·: '·· 30 Combinations of different melting methods can be used as required. The membrane may be made of a material other than thermoplastic if its surface facing the base needle 1 has any of the above '··. thermoplastic structure. The additional layer 2 may also be a felt which *: * comprises a thermoplastic at least on its surface, and such felt may consist of a fibrous fiber or a fibrous fiber mixture.

A basic product, i.e., a linen tex fur on one side of a base fabric 1, in which the lint-forming staple fibers 3 are doped with melting binder fibers. The amount of binder fibers may vary from 0 to 100%. On the smooth side, i.e. the backside, of the artificial fur 108650, an additional layer 2 is laminated with a film or felt having the materials and variants of the preceding item 8. The layer 2 is fused to the base fabric 1 by conduction, convection or radiation heat and possibly pressure. Combinations of different melting 5 modes can be used as needed.

10. A basic product, i.e., a pile fabric knit in one side of a base knit 1, in which the yarn 1a of the base knit 1 is a fusible binding filament or yarn joined by duplicating, repeating, twisting or other textile techniques. The amount of binding filaments or yarns may vary from 0-100%. An additional layer 2 is laminated on the smooth side, i.e. the back side, of the faux fur, which has the materials and constructional options of item 8. Layer 2 is melted by conduction, convection or radiant heat and possibly by pressure. Combinations of different melting methods can be used as needed, is 11. The basic product, i.e., a knitted fabric of one side of the base knit 1, whose flax-forming staple fibers 3 are doped with melting binder fibers and whose yarn 1a of the base knit 1 is duplicated, twisted, multiplied or otherwise binding filament or yarn. The amount of both binder fibers and binder filaments or yarns may vary from 0 to 100%. On the smooth side or back of the faux fur is an additional layer 2 film or felt, which has the materials and options of item 8. Binding ·: ··; component, ie fiber, filament or yarn, of knitted or crocheted fabric, or. their combinations and layer 2 are fused by conduction, convection or radiation heat and possibly by pressure. Combinations of different melting methods can be used as needed.

12. A modified article having a structure according to any one of claims 1, 2, 3, 7, 8, 9, 10 or '11, wherein two of its base knitwear 1 on one side of a lint-faux fur are laminated together by an additional layer 2, wherein: 30 produces a faux fur with a lint on two product sides.

v: The additional layer structures and its thermoplastic materials may be; \ as mentioned above.

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As a common denominator of all structures (1-12), the staple fibers 3 of the pile 35 or the base knit 1 may contain other material components in addition to thermoplastics, such as natural fibers (0-100%) in the pile or base (cotton, linen, cot, wool, etc.). ), thermoplastics applied after thermal bonding of the lint, such as thermosetting plastics (dispersion containing color pigments of polyurethane binder). The above unilateral structures 1, 2, 3, 7, 8, 9, 10 or 11 may be further laminated or otherwise combined by gluing with a non-woven or patterned natural or synthetic fabric, a knit or nonwoven fabric, or a textile or plastic (xy- level) component. All components of the faux fur can be dyed or patterned according to known dyeing techniques or graphic printing techniques.

ίο When the fleece of a faux fur is thermally bonded to the base knit, the product feels like a textile. At the same time, the faux fur lint binds to the base fabric instead of the mechanical bond by melting, i.e. the faux fur lint does not loosen in use and the faux fur retains its important functional properties such as thermal insulation. Tekotur-15 has a thermal insulation capacity (Rc) of at least 0.10 Km2 / W or better (BS 4745: 1990).

Thermal Bonding Processes of Fusible Fibers 2o In order for bonding fibers to adhere to one another or to the substrate, the temperature of the bonding process must be higher than their melting point. Li-V Saxon fiber has to have the same chemical structure or at least one *: ··· compatible with the substrate to ensure adhesion. In order to melt the sieve fiber, heat energy must be transferred to it. The heat is dissipated in three different ways: by conduction, that is, by conduction through a solid, usually • · surface, by transport through a medium, such as gas or liquid: “30 - by radiation without medium, that is, as radiant energy.

I * · I *.,. For the connective fibers to work, they must be thawed. This process must be selected correctly so that they are firmly welded to the base material. The molten binder fibers bind to each other at the most intersecting contact points which occur between the adhesive material and / or between the adhesive and the base material. Thermal bonding must take into account the following: Principle of melting process: Conduction, Convection and Radiation 14 108650 Principle of melting apparatus: Heat or heat and pressure Calibration unit: Calibration of finished product , mm. feel and strength.

If the melting process is based on convection, more specifically pouring into a hazy medium, usually hot air, the process can be implemented in two ways: through the product air stream to the surface blast of the product.

The former is commonly used in the manufacture of thick, porous nonwovens because it is also capable of heating the fibers of the interior. The flow rate is three times higher, but this advantage is lost when the product is air tight. One or two-side hot-blasting of hot air is best suited for the thermal fixing of faux fur lint fibers.

When hot air is blown onto the product surface, most of the flow turns 90 ° to produce a horizontally oriented laminar I ···. draft. This mainly affects the surface area of the product, but not the inner layers. The temperature of the air to be blown must be higher than that of the binder fiber to melt. If the temperature is too low, the connective fibers will not adhere to one another or to the bottom product. Excessively high temperatures cause the connective fibers to lose their shape and strength, especially when using single-component adhesive fibers. In addition, they shrink considerably, which adversely affects the dimensions of the final product. The state of the two-component fibers does not change substantially upon heating, · 'only the surface portion melts at relatively low temperature (= 140 °

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C). Thus, the end product feels softer (more textile-like) and has a better depth of measurement, thanks to the bicomponent fibers. -:. Ί .: 35 dimensional stability can be improved by orienting them during melting:: spinning or in a separate stretching step.

15 108650 I As the proportion of the binder component in the staple fiber mixture is increased relative to matrix I, the bond strength increases, though at the expense of the feel. When the amount of binder fibers is too high, the end product becomes brittle and hard. Bicomponent fibers provide better strength than mono-component adhesive fibers with the same volume fraction. The end result also depends on the number of contact points between the fibrous fibers and the compression pressure that may be used.

The strength of the end product increases with increasing hot air flow rate, mainly due to increased flow resistance. This is due to the increase in the number of bonding points between the meltable fibers. At the same time, the production rate increases, i.e. the residence time in the process is shortened. In addition, the product condenses as the air flow rate increases. By keeping the air flow rate constant, the dwell time can be shortened by increasing the air temperature. In this case, care must be taken to avoid excessively hot flow as this will damage the fibrous fibers and the end product. The same detrimental effect is due to the excessively long residence time, since the macroscopic and microscopic orientation of the fibers is reduced (e.g. due to melting of crystalline regions). In order to achieve both a textile 2o feel of the product and a good bond between the fibers, the dwell time must be optimal.

The main object of the invention is to fix the faux fur pile fibers so that the pile has a length (protrusion from the level of the base knit) of between 1 and V. 25 mm, by thermal bonding of the base product to the base knit by utilizing the above-described artificial fur making process. The length of the artificial 4h fur lint depends on the length of the staple fiber fed and the adjustment of the lint cutting step. In the above method, the staple fibers can be passed through the process either as melting staple fibers or filament yarns. In the former case, the staple fibers are blended into a lint::: forming a carding flap and in the latter the filaments or yarns are guided to the knitting machine. be too slippery otherwise you will not be able to knit due to feeding difficulties.So special care must be taken with the filament: 35 road / yarn surface treatment. A tacky open agent can increase the yarn's friction and at the same time the workability.When using meltable fibers, the following factors must be taken into account: chemical structure (compatibility) melting temperature of the fibrous fiber Other physical factors of the fibrous fiber, eg shrinkage process parameters (temperature, dwell time and cooling time and pressure) fiber fineness.

Faux fur is a staple fiber blend of 65% polyacrylic (Dralon L BRT / Bayer. 3,3dtex, 20 mm) and 35% polyester (Dacron T688 / DuPont: 4,7 dtex). The pile has a cutting length of 7 to 10 mm. The basic yarn of the knit is normally polyester (eg PES 167 / 32x1 ecru). The temperature of the frame is 150 ° C for glue fixation and 160 ° C for thermal bonding. It has a width of approximately 150 mm and a mass of 240 to 340 g / m2.

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Other basic product, a potential fake fur lämpösidontamene-systems are: the moisture and air barrier enabling the plastic film lamination 20 - fake fur smooth neulepuolen sulaimpregnointi plastic or Lalla a coating (such as the paper coating process "· the variation.), Moisture and air barrier · {- fake fur smooth neulospuolen kuivaimpregnointi plastic powder and heat bonding in an oven or calendar, whereby: V. 25 also forms a uniform binding film.

I *. »*, ···, Simultaneous thermal bonding of faux fur lint fibers, as well as moisture * · and air barrier can be achieved eg. laminating the plastic film to the surface of a smooth knit or coating a smooth knit with a plastic melt which, when solidified, forms a uniform film.

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! As a rule of thumb, both the fleece lint 3 of the faux fur and the yarns 1a of the bottom knit need to have a meltable component in order for the two parts to bond well together. It is also sufficient for the purpose of the invention that one of these parts has a meltable component. If the meltable component is present in only one of these parts, it is preferable that the additional layer 2 includes one more meltable component. there is no fusible component in either, an additional layer 2 is necessary to effect thermal bonding.

Advantages of Thermal Bonding over Bonding

Thermobonding provides the following advantages over traditional adhesive bonding (chemical binder bonding): the finished product has a more textile-like soft feel and the end products can be recycled almost completely (100%), ίο because the chemical structure of the binder fibers can be selected evaporation of water is avoided. Thermal energy is only required to melt binder fibers from one quarter to one sixth (1/4 to 1/6) compared to adhesive 15 bonding.

no binder agents and no thermal fixation is required. The manufacturing process is environmentally friendly as it does not produce waste water and exhaust air.

the choice of binder fibers can influence the properties of the final product, e.g. flexibility and fire protection.

* · · * These benefits of binder fibers are now also applicable to the manufacture of faux fur.

iV 25 EXECUTION EXAMPLES

: Thermal bonding tests of pile

The melting fiber was added to the faux fur linen or bottom knit. In the former case, the melting staple fibers (15-50 wt.%) Were doped in a lint-forming carding flap, and in the latter, the filaments were passed to a knitting machine with a loop yarn (amplification or twisting). The experiments were initially performed in and under well-controlled laboratory conditions. ! ·. after an industrial scale. The dwell times and temperatures of the tests were theoretically calculated to minimize the number of practical tests.

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The adherence of the basic product, namely faux fur pile fibers, was determined by three different methods: 1. Martindale Method, SFS 4328 (Textiles. Determination of the Duration of Fabric Friction-5. Martidale Method), a qualitative method for weight loss after product loading. 2. Peeling method, SFS 3378 (Textiles. Determination of Textile Peeling) ίο - Determine the Qualitative Method for Weight Loss After Product Loading 3. Pile Tensile Test Modified SFS 3189 (Textile Carpets. Determination of Pile Attachment Depth) Measurement of Tensile Dispenser Disassembly Results (Newtone)! force required for ratification (N) by their mass (mg) quantitative method.

20 In order to determine the functionality of the thermal bonding, the untreated, i.e. non-bonded and glued, artificial fur was used as a reference.

M * I t: · EXAMPLE 1: Fusible Fiber Faux Fur Pile, Fastening Month: · '25 Mile Frame • · • «·: T: Faux Fur was made with a single cylinder circular knitting machine. Commercially produced with that melting fiber Wellbond TO109 (Wellman International Ltd.) replaced some commercial polyester used as pile | 30 Dacron T688 (DuPont). Wellbond TO109 is a two-component po-! a low melting temperature> * *: '·· 110 ° C and a high core 255 ° C. The standard sample for heat-binding experiments, .., was of the artificial fur quality T351 with the following structure:

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. !!!: 35 soles knit • PET 167 / 32x1 ecru 100 wt% - pile • Dacron T688 (PES) 4.7 / 35 50 wt% 19 108650 • Wellbond TO109 (coPES / PES) 5.3 / 55 50 wt% total 100 wt%

The melting fibers were attached to the base fabric polyester fibers in a Ernst 5 Benz continuous laboratory frame. The final adjustment of the process parameters optimizes the product properties between the feel and the retention of the pile fibers so that both levels are sufficient. The faux fur containing melting pile fibers is heated in a Benz continuous laboratory oven with the upper valve (Klappe) open and the lower valve (Klappe) closed (zu). The actual test series consisted of three different residence times.

The artificial fur had a basis weight of 240 g / m2. Starting from room temperature (20 ° C), the temperatures and residence times used in the test series (FRAME) are shown in Table 1:

Table 1. Air temperature and dwell time values for the FRAME test series.

Sample Air Temperature Sample Heat Sample la (actual temperature (target) dwell time value) [° C] (true value): ..: j__cg___n, ... t Frame 1__160__155__120_; Frame 2__180__160__70_ · 'Frame 3__200__160______50_ I »»' 20 The sample was placed in a rack with the pile face down. In addition, the faux fur must be tensioned on the frame specimen holder so that it is tensile: '··. The pile side of the sample is protected with heat-resistant material, eg aluminum-coated cloth. Air heating occurred on the backside, i.e. the knit side.

25h:

The result of the experiment is shown in Figure 5. The first number after the product code T351 indicates the treatment temperature and the second the residence time. Peeling test curves show that the adhesion of faux fur lint to the bottom knit increases with heat treatment, but at the same time becomes thicker.

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EXAMPLE 2: Fusible Fiber in Faux Fur Pile, Fixed with Hot Metal Surface 5 The faux fur was made on a single cylinder circular knitting machine. A commercially available melting binder fiber, Wellbond T0109 (Wellman International Ltd.), replaced part of the commercially available lint Dacron T688 (DuPont). Wellbond T0109 is a two-component polyester fiber (coPET / PET) with a low melting point> 110 ° C and a high core 255 ° C. The basic sample for thermal binding experiments was the faux fur quality T351, which has the following structure: - bottom knit • PET 167 / 32x1 ecru 100 wt% - pile • Dacron T688 (PES) 4.7 / 35 50 wt% • Wellbond TO109 (coPES / PES ) 5.3 / 55 50 wt% total 100 wt% 20 The melting fiber contained in the faux fur lint was heated by a metal surface. For this purpose, an electrically heated device (e.g., Fixotest) was used. The final adjustment of the process parameters optimizes the product properties between the feel and the retention of the pile fibers so that both are at a satisfactory level.

; · '* 25 1' ·· Artificial fleece with a basis weight of!:: 240 g / m2 was heated with the middle plate of the Fixotest.

Only the top plate was warmed to the control temperature (Table 2). The bottom plate adjuster is kept in the 0 position so it does not heat up. When a sudden change in temperature is applied to the surface of a faux fur bottom knit, the solid is subjected to instantaneous (one-dimensional) heat (conduction). The rapid rise in the initial phase of the action of the surface temperature of the solid can be reduced to a certain depth: *, whereby the internal parts of the body have not yet been exposed to heat.

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The actual test series consisted of three different residence times (denoted by subscripts 1, 2, and 3), while the amount of air contained in the artificial fur 21108650 (pore content) was assumed to be 20%. The temperatures and residence times of the test series (FIXO) are shown in Table 2.

Table 2. Dwell time values depending on the temperature of the hot metal surface of the FIXO test series.

Sample Metal Surface Sample Standard Sample Hot Temperature, Roller Temperature, Time,

Ts T (0.5, t) t __rcj__ra__rsi

Fixo 1__160__155__899 = 15 min

Fixo 2__180__160__71_

Fixo 3__200__160__22_ The sample is placed face down on the Fixotest with the faux fur bottom knit facing the hot metal surface. Hot metal! The io surface melts the melting fibers contained in the lint into the bottom knit within the calculated life span. Under no circumstances should the faux fur lint itself melt as the feel and airiness of the product will diminish. The middle upper plate of the Fixotest is rotated against the lower plate: V with the sample trapped between them. The specimen is subjected to a nominal compression pressure: · · · P = F / A (1) where; ... t F = mg = force exerted by the top plate 20 m = weight of the plate (1 kg) g = ground pull force acceleration (9.81 m / s2) A = plate area (0.05 0.11 m2 = 0.0055 m2).

For a free sample of faux fur between the plates of the Fixotest, ···. 25 is subjected to a pressure of 1.8 kPa.

The result of the experiment is shown in Figure 6. The first number after the product code T351 indicates the processing temperature and the second the residence time.

With the hot metal surface, the pile containing the meltable fiber can be attached to the bottom knit better than with hot air. When the temperature of the metal surface of the 10 108650 I bar exceeds the melting point of the binder fiber, the pile does not, in practice, become detached from the base fabric.

EXAMPLE 3: A melting fiber in a faux fur knitwear. 5 mounting in hot air frame

The melting binder fibers can be combined with a faux fur linen or a base fabric. In the former case, the meltable staple fibers were added to the carded flake (50 wt.%) And then thawed in a frame (hot air flow). By this method the same bonding strength of the pile and the base knit as that of the crosslinkable adhesive was achieved.

In the latter case, the base yarn polyester filament (PET 167f32x2) was twisted with a two-component multifilament 15 filament yarn (coPET / PET 278f16) with low temperature melting PET (160-205 ° C) and single core (250-260 °) core. C).

Details of the filaments to be merged are given below:. I PET 167f32x2 fineness: 167 dtex ... - thread diameter: 124 pm '25 II Kanebo coPET / PET 278f16 - fineness: 278 dtex - thread diameter: 160 pm

The former is a faux fur knit yarn and the latter is a melt-30 va two-component filament. Based on the linear densities of the components, the melting fiber content of the stranded yarn (167 dtex + 278 dtex) is 62.5 wt%.

These filaments were joined by a ring twisting machine at a gentle thread 35 (e.g., Z80). The resulting yarn is then distributed to 12 in Poland by flange winding machine, after which an artificial fur is made with a single-cylinder circular knitting machine as described above.

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The structure of the artificial fur identified by the code T416 is as follows: - bottom knit • (167 dtex + 278 dtex) Z50 = 650 dtex 5 · PET 167f32x2 + coPET / PET 278f16 - pile • PET Trevira T290, 3.3 dtex, 28mm

The faux fur containing melting filaments is heated in a Benz continuous laboratory oven with the upper valve (Klappe) open (auf) and the lower valve (Klappe) closed (zu). The actual test series consisted of three different residence times. The artificial fur had a basis weight of 320 g / m2.

The temperatures and residence times used in the test series (FRAME2) are shown in Table 3.

Table 3. Air temperature and dwell time values for the FRAME2 test series.

Sample Air Temperature, Sample Temperature Sample residence time,, \ la, at · ': (true value) (target) (true value): ··: __ EC] __ E9 __ [s] _

Frame 160 155 145 /.· '! V2____: ·. * Frame 180 160 90 ... "212____

Frame 200 160 65 3/2 ___ '20 Place the specimen in the rack with the pile side down (under the influence of hot air flow). In addition, the faux fur must be tensioned on the frame's rack so that it is under tension. The pile side of the sample is protected by a heat-resistant material, for example an aluminum-coated cloth.

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The result of the experiment is shown in Figure 7. The first digit after the product code T416 indicates the processing temperature and the second the residence time. The heat retention of te 10 2450 fur coat is improved by heat treatment. Su- | the pallet fiber would appear to perform better in the pile (Figure 5) than in the knitwear (Figure 7). When melted in the base fabric, the lint remains soft despite the heat treatment.

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EXAMPLE 4: Fixing a Faux Fur Pile with a Plastic Film ί The faux fur was made using a single cylinder circular knitting machine. The structure of this artificial fur, identified by the code T513, is as follows: 10 faux fur structure (lint free from melting fiber): bottom knit: PET 167 / 32x2 100% • lint: Dacron T688 (35 mm) 35%, 8 mm Dralon BRT (28 mm) 65% , 8mm 15

Pile consists of a blend of polyacrylic Dralon L BRT 3.3 / 28 (Bayer) and polyester Dacron T688 4.7 / 35 (DuPont), ie it does not contain a component that melts at the treatment temperatures. The faux fur had a basis weight of 350 g / m 2 ^ The non-adhesive faux fur was covered with a breathable plastic coating protected from the wind and rain. The plastic film is used to bind the faux fur pile to the bottom knit.

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A thermoplastic film was laminated to the surface of the faux fur bottom knit.

, v. The following film grades were used in the experiment: ** 25,. 'I Poreile 55 (Porvair PLC) - Polyether urethane - Perforated film I * ·· - Average hole size (0): 1 μηι: V: 30 - Film thickness: 55 ± 5 μηπ; ! - opaque white film '. - hydrostatic pressure duration (BS 3424 method 29C): '* 700 cmH 2 O / min = 0.69 bar - Water vapor permeability (ASTM E96 B): 650 750 g / (m ^ d) • 35

Il Sympatex (En) - Polyester - Hydrophilic Film 25 108650 - Film Thickness: 10 μιτι I - Transparent, colorless film - Hydrostatic pressure:> 1 bar - Water vapor permeability:> 2500 g / (m2d) 5 i III Pebatex (Elf Atochem) - Polyetheramide - Hydrophilic film - Film thickness: 15 µm - Transparent, colorless film - Hydrostatic pressure resistance (DIN 53886):> 1 bar - Water vapor permeability (ASTM E 96 BW): 25000 g / (m2 d)

The films were attached to a faux fur bottom knit using an adhesive press is (Meyer KF600) where the product was sandwiched between two heated rubber straps. At the beginning of the web, the film was heated above the melting point and at the end, the film was pressed onto the fabric surface. The film was thawed onto the surface of the faux fur.

20 Three sample laminates were prepared. The base material for the laminates was faux fur, which was thermally bonded to water impermeable to water vapor and permeable to water vapor. film. If necessary, a thin adhesive cloth made of polyurethane was used. The adhesive information is below: 25 - Manufacturer: Applied Extrusion Technologies Ltd.

(England) - Product name: Sharnet SH 151 ii '·· - Material: Polyurethane

30 - melting range (DSC measurement): 110-145 ° C

··! Temperature range of lamination: 150-170 ° C.

The second size of adhesive was the quality of Sharnet SH 2402, which is polya - * .i .: midi. Table 4 shows the processing conditions. Adhesive cloth 35 was used in connection with hydrophilic films, i.e. samples 2 and 3. Porelle films (sample 1) have dense points of meltable plastic which bind them to the product to be coated.

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Table 4. Values for air temperature, dwell time, and compression pressure for test series.

Membrane Temperature Sample Sample

Top Strap Dwell Time Compression Pressure (Adjustment Value) (Actual Value) (Adjustment Value) __ [X] __ [s] __ ΓΝ / cm2! Sample 1 / Poreile 55 140 22 9 / no adhesive cloth____ Sample 2 / Symbatex / adhesive cloth: 160 22 9

SharnetSH 151____ Sample 3 / Pebatex 160 22 9 / Adhesive Tape: Sharnet SH 2402 ___ 5 When a plastic film is laminated to a fake fur, the non-bonded pile fibers adhere to the bottom knit. This is evident from Figure 8, which illustrates the effect of a laminated plastic film on the adhesion of the lint when the faux fur does not contain melting binder fiber. The comparative samples are non-bonded faux fur T351 and T513. Best is the sample laminated with Sym-lo batex film. The laminating of the plastic film completely replaces the gluing of faux fur, while providing a breathable, water- and air-tight seal.

»* · V With the help of a breathable plastic film that protects against wind and rain, the fur is also made, for example. air and water impermeable (Figures T: 9 and 10). Figure 9 shows the effect of a laminated plastic film on the air permeability of artificial fur T513, and Figure 10 shows the effect of a laminated plastic film on the hydrostatic pressure resistance of the artificial fur. Mit -... (From the background results it can be briefly stated that the abrasion resistance of the laminated samples 20 is only significantly lower than that of the glued i '·· artificial fur. The abrasion resistance of the laminated samples can be improved.

Lj by covering the plastic film with a very thin knit or cloth.

This also enables the surface of the faux fur to be textured in any way I can. In addition, this product has a completely textile-like feel, 25% better than adhesive emulsion-bound faux fur.

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The laminated samples are breathable and have the same water vapor permeability as T513 uncoated synthetic fur. In addition, the laminated faux fur is airtight because virtually no air can pass through them. Laminated products have a hydrostatic pressure of more than 10 m, whereas glued artificial fur only has a value of 1-5 cm. The best product was a line of faux fur coated with Symbatex film.

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Claims (11)

108650 An artificial fur, wherein the staple fiber (3) is mechanically blended with a staple fiber (3) which protrudes from the plane of the base fabric (1) and forms a lint on the outer surface of the faux fur, characterized in that the staple fibers (3) ) is attached to the bottom fabric (1) by heat-bonding by means of a softened and / or molten plastic material. ίο Faux fur according to Claim 1, characterized in that the thermal bonding is carried out by means of staple fibers (3) mixed with the base knit (1) and comprising plastic material softened and / or melted by the action of heat. is Artificial fur according to Claim 1, characterized in that the thermal bonding is carried out by means of a yarn (1a) of the base fabric (1) comprising a plastic material softened and / or melted by heat. Faux fur according to claims 2 and 3, characterized in that | : V heat bonding is performed on both the yarn (1a) of the knit (1) and the ; '··· by means of staple fibers (3) mixed with the knit fabric. »· · A faux fur according to claim 1, characterized in that it is warm ···. The stitching is performed by means of an additional layer (2) located on the backside of the base fabric (1), which comprises a thermally softened and / or melted plastic material against the base fabric (1). Artificial fur according to Claim 5, characterized in that the yarn (1a) of the base fabric (1) and / or the staple fibers (3) mixed with the base fabric also have a softened and / or melted plastic material under the influence of heat. Faux fur according to Claim or 4, characterized in that the staple fibers (3) mixed with the base fabric (1) comprise a binder fiber, the component of which forms a thermoplastic and / or molten plastic material. 108650 Faux fur according to Claim 3 or 4, characterized in that the yarn (1a) of the base knit (1) comprises a binder fiber whose component forms a thermoplastic and / or molten plastic material. 5 9. A method for producing artificial fur by mechanically blending staple fibers (3) into the base fabric (1) of the yarn (1a) so as to protrude from the plane of the base fabric (1) and form a lint on the outer surface of the artificial fur. by means of a thermosetting plastic material which is softened and / or melted by heat treatment with conduction heat, convection heat or radiant heat. Method according to Claim 9, characterized in that the conduction heat treatment is carried out by applying the base fabric (1) and an additional layer (2) possibly attached to its backside over the heated surface. Method according to claim 9 or 10, characterized in that:, ..; 20 that pressure is applied in addition to the heat treatment. > · · * »· * 108650