SE1830383A1 - Composition and formulation comprising a Persicaria Capitata plant extract - Google Patents

Composition and formulation comprising a Persicaria Capitata plant extract

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Publication number
SE1830383A1
SE1830383A1 SE1830383A SE1830383A SE1830383A1 SE 1830383 A1 SE1830383 A1 SE 1830383A1 SE 1830383 A SE1830383 A SE 1830383A SE 1830383 A SE1830383 A SE 1830383A SE 1830383 A1 SE1830383 A1 SE 1830383A1
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Sweden
Prior art keywords
plant extract
formulation
plant
composition
extract
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Application number
SE1830383A
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Swedish (sv)
Other versions
SE543379C2 (en
Inventor
Christina Österlund
Lene Visdal-Johnsen
Michele Leonardi
Nahid Amini
Nina Hrapovic
Fabre Susanne Froelich
Virginie Marie Lafon-Kolb
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Oriflame Cosmetics Ag
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Publication date
Application filed by Oriflame Cosmetics Ag filed Critical Oriflame Cosmetics Ag
Priority to SE1830383A priority Critical patent/SE543379C2/en
Priority to PCT/EP2019/086551 priority patent/WO2020127888A2/en
Publication of SE1830383A1 publication Critical patent/SE1830383A1/en
Publication of SE543379C2 publication Critical patent/SE543379C2/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/33Heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K31/335Heterocyclic compounds having oxygen as the only ring hetero atom, e.g. fungichromin
    • A61K31/35Heterocyclic compounds having oxygen as the only ring hetero atom, e.g. fungichromin having six-membered rings with one oxygen as the only ring hetero atom
    • A61K31/352Heterocyclic compounds having oxygen as the only ring hetero atom, e.g. fungichromin having six-membered rings with one oxygen as the only ring hetero atom condensed with carbocyclic rings, e.g. methantheline 
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/70Carbohydrates; Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K31/7042Compounds having saccharide radicals and heterocyclic rings
    • A61K31/7048Compounds having saccharide radicals and heterocyclic rings having oxygen as a ring hetero atom, e.g. leucoglucosan, hesperidin, erythromycin, nystatin, digitoxin or digoxin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/48Fabaceae or Leguminosae (Pea or Legume family); Caesalpiniaceae; Mimosaceae; Papilionaceae
    • A61K36/481Astragalus (milkvetch)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/70Polygonaceae (Buckwheat family), e.g. spineflower or dock
    • A61K36/704Polygonum, e.g. knotweed
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/18Antioxidants, e.g. antiradicals
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2236/00Isolation or extraction methods of medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicine
    • A61K2236/30Extraction of the material
    • A61K2236/33Extraction of the material involving extraction with hydrophilic solvents, e.g. lower alcohols, esters or ketones

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Natural Medicines & Medicinal Plants (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
  • Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Mycology (AREA)
  • Alternative & Traditional Medicine (AREA)
  • Medical Informatics (AREA)
  • Nuclear Medicine, Radiotherapy & Molecular Imaging (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Bioinformatics & Cheminformatics (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
  • Molecular Biology (AREA)
  • Biochemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Medicines Containing Plant Substances (AREA)
  • Pharmaceuticals Containing Other Organic And Inorganic Compounds (AREA)

Abstract

URBAN DARKENING PLANT EXTRACT COMPOSITION AND FORMULATIONThe present invention provides a plant extract composition comprising a first and a second plant extract and a formulation comprising the composition. The plant extract composition comprises one or more of: quercitrin; and/or quercetrin-3-O-Acetyl Rhamnoside; and/or tri-O-galloyl^-D-glucose; and one or more of: myricetin; and/or rhamnocitrin; and/or kaempferide; and/or calycosin. The plant extract composition and formulation of the present invention may be used to protect against, and/or alleviate, and/or reduce and/or minimize the signs of skin ageing and/or the signs of a skin damage condition associated with exposure to pollution. In particular, the plant extract composition and formulation of the present invention may be used as one or more of: an urban darkening inhibitor (ie. a glycation inhibitor); and/or an antioxidant; and/or a tyrosinase inhibitor; and/or a melanin production inhibitor; and/or MITF gene expression inhibitor; and/or an anti-pollution agent; and/or any combination thereof.

Description

Urban Darkening Skin Composition and Formulation The present invention relates to a plant extract composition comprising a first plant extract obtainedfrom the extraction of Persicaria capitata and a second plant extract obtained from the extraction ofAstragalus complanatus, and in particular to a formulation comprising the plant extract composition.The present invention also relates to the use of the plant extract composition and the formulation forpreventing and/or reducing the signs of skin ageing and/or skin damage conditions associated withexposure to pollution, such as for example urban darkening of the skin and/or increased pigmentation and/or uneven skin tone, associated with exposure to pollution.
BACKGROUND OF INVENTION Skin ageing can be attributed to extrinsic and intrinsic processes that are commonly manifested byincreased wrinkling laxity, pigment spots/uneven skin tone and skin dryness. The ageing of skin is aresult of a person's genetic predisposition together with a physiological reaction to environmentalstresses. Environmental stresses such as for example ultraviolet (UV) irradiation from sun exposureand pollution exposure are the main extrinsic factors in modern life resulting in premature aging ofthe skin. Both of these factors cause an inflammatory response in the skin leading to alterations inthe ECM, mediated in part by matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), leading to connective tissuedamage, such as breakdown of collagen, a major component of the extracellular matrix. Air pollutionexposure also significantly correlates to other extrinsic skin aging signs, in particular to pigment spotsand skin dryness. Pollution in general, and DPM (diesel particulate matter) in particular, binds to andactivates the aryl hydrocarbon receptor, AhR, leading to increased ROS and IL-8 production in the skin as well as hyperpigmentation.
Glycation is the non-enzymatic reaction between reducing sugars, such as glucose, and proteins, lipidsor nucleic acids to form advanced glycation end products (AGEs). Accumulation of AGEs in the skin isdetected during chronological aging and results in a dull yellowish skin tone. Pollution as well as UVexposure, smoking and unhealthy diet, all typical aggravating factors of skin aging, are known to accelerate the formation of AGEs and increases their deposition in various tissues including skin.
Therefore, effective protection of skin against the detrimental effects from exposure to pollution is very important to maintain beautiful and healthy skin.
There is a need for a plant derived natural product which has improved anti-ageing activity. lnparticular, there is a need for a plant derived natural product which has improved activity for preventing and/or reducing the signs of skin ageing and/or skin damage conditions, such as for1 example urban darkening of the skin and/or increased pigmentation and/or uneven skin tone, associated with exposure to pollution.
SUMMARY OF INVENTION According to a first aspect of the invention, there is provided a plant extract composition comprising a first plant extract comprising one or more of:quercitrin; and/orquercetrin-3-O-Acetyl Rhamnoside; and optionallytri-O-galloyl-ß-D-glucose; and a second plant extract comprising one or more of:myricetin; and/orkaempferide; and optionally one or more of: rhamnocitrin and/or calycosin and/or polydatin.
According to a second aspect there is provided a formulation comprising a plant extract compositioncomprising a first and a second plant extract, in which the plant extract composition comprises one or more of:Quercitrin and/or quercetrin-3-O-Acetyl Rhamnoside; andmyricetin and/or kaempferide; and optionally one or more of: tri-O-galloyl-ß-D-glucose and/or rhamnocitrin and/or calycosin and/or polydatin.
The formulation preferably comprises a plant extract combination comprising a first plant extract comprising one or more of:quercitrin; and/orquercetrin-3-O-Acetyl Rhamnoside; and optionally tri-O-galloyl-ß-D-glucose;anda second plant extract comprising one or more of:myricetin; and/orkaempferide; and optionally one or more of: rhamnocitrin and/or calycosin and/or polydatin.
The term ”plant extract" is used herein to refer to a preparation in liquid, semi-solid, or solid form, obtained from plant material.
The first plant extract of the plant extract composition is preferably obtained from a different plantspecies to the second plant extract. The plant extract composition preferably comprises a first plantextract obtained from the Persicaria capitata plant, and a second plant extract obtained from the Astragalus complanatus plant.
The Persicaria capiata plant is prefera bly an in vitro persicaria capitate plantlet. The first plant extract is preferably an in vitro persicaria capitata plantlet extract.
At least one, preferably each of, the plant extract(s) is preferably a water extract.
The term ”water extract" is used herein to refer to an extract obtained by contacting a portion of theplant(s) with water or by contacting a crude plant extract (obtained using any suitable solvent, suchas for example ethanol) with water. lt is however to be understood that the extract may be obtainedfrom any suitable solvent extraction carried out on the plant using any suitable solvent, and is notlimited to water extraction. The method of extraction provides water soluble extract with high water solubility which is desirable for use in the formulations of the present invention.
The first plant extract preferably comprises one or more of quercitrin and/or quercetrin-3-O-Acetyl Rhamnoside as the active agent(s). The first plant extract may comprise kaempferol as an active agent.
The first plant extract may further comprise one or more, for example each, of: galloyl-ß-D-glucose; di-O-galloyl-ß-D-glucose; tri-O-galloyl-ß-D-glucose; (2R,3R)-taxifolin-3'-O-ß-D-glucose; tetra-O-galloyl-ß-D-glucose; (-)-epicatechin gallate; isoquercetrin; kaempferol-7-ß-D-glucose;7-acyl-quercetin-3'-glycoside; apigenin-7-ß-D-glucose; kaempferol-3-O-acetyl rhamnoside, or anycombination thereof.
Preferably, the first plant extract comprises tri-O-galloyl-ß-D-glucose.
The second plant extract preferably comprises one or more of myricetin and/or kaempferide as active agents.
The second plant extract may further comprise one or more, for example each, of: 3 Myricetin 3-O-ß-D-xylopyranosyl(1*2)-ß-D-glucopyranoside; 3',5-dihydroxy-4'-methoxyisoflavone-7-O-ß-D-glucopyranoside; myricetin-3-rutinoside; myricetin-3-glucoside; (E)-3-(beta-D-glucopyranosyloxy)-5-hydroxy-4'-methylstilbene; polydatin; myricetin-3-rhamnoside; myricetin-7-glucoside;astragalin;rhamnocitrin 3-apiosyl-(1->2)-glucoside; nicotiflorin; rhamnocitrin-3-glucoside; rhamnocitrin3-(6”-acetylglucoside); calycosin; rhamnocitrin 7-apiosyl-(1->2)-glucoside; astragaloside VIII;rhamnocitrin 7-(6"-acetylglucoside); rhamnocitrin 3-(5'”-ferulylapiosyl)-( 1->2)-glucoside; 7-hydroxy-3-(4-methoxy-phenyl)-chromen-4-on; rhamnocitrin; soyasaponin II; soyasaponin I; Iiquirtin; quercitrin;chlorogenic acid; resveratrol; robinin; kaempferide; isokaempferide; 7,3',4'-trihydroxyflavone-7- glucoside, or any combination thereof.
The second plant extract may further comprise one or more of: calycosin, polydatin, and any combination thereof.
The formulation is preferably a skin formulation in particular a cosmetic or pharmaceutical skinformulation. The cosmetic formulation is preferably a non-therapeutic cosmetic formulation. Theplant extract composition or formulation of the present invention may be applied directly or as part ofa cosmetic or pharmaceutical, for example dermatological formulation. It is to be understood that the plant extract composition may be applied to the skin alone or as part of a formulation.
According to a further aspect of the present invention, there is provided an anti-pollution cosmetic or pharmaceutical skin formulation comprising a plant extract composition as herein described.
According to a further aspect of the present invention, there is provided the use of a plant extractcomposition or formulation as herein described to protect against, and/or alleviate, and/or reduceand/or minimise the signs of skin ageing and/or the signs of a skin damage condition, such as forexample urban darkening of the skin and/or increased pigmentation and/or uneven skin tone,associated with exposure to pollution. The signs of skin ageing and/or the signs of a skin damagecondition is preferably present on skin of the face, body or the scalp of a subject. The term ”skin” is used herein to cover skin found on the face, the body and the scalp.
The signs of skin ageing and/or skin damage conditions associated with exposure to pollution includebut are not limited to one or more of urban darkening of the skin, increased pigmentation uneven skintone, inflammation, redness, blotchiness, puffy eyes or dark circles. The plant extract compositionand/or formulation of the present invention may be used to treat any one of these signs of skin ageing 4 and/or skin damage conditions, a combination of any number of these signs of skin ageing and/or skin damage conditions, or all of these signs of skin ageing and/or skin damage conditions simultaneously.
The plant extract composition and/or the formulation(s) of the present invention is preferably one ormore of:a glycation inhibitor; and/oran antioxidant; and/ora tyrosinase inhibitor; and/ora melanin production inhibitor; and/or MITF gene expression inhibitor; and/oran anti-pollution agent; and/or any combination thereof.
The plant extract composition and/or formulation(s) of the present invention may be used to prevent,alleviate and/or reduce one or more signs of skin ageing and/or skin damage associated with one ormore of: pollution-induced MMP1 secretion, glycation, exposure to pollution, exposure to free radicals, or any combination thereof.
Each of the first and second plant extracts may be present within the composition or formulation atany suitable concentration or ratio. The ratio of the first plant extract to the second plant extract withinthe composition or formulation may be in the range of from 1: 15 to 10:1, preferably within the range of from 0.2:1 to 5:1, more preferably within the range of from 0.5:1 to 2:1, for example about 1:1. ln one embodiment, one or more of, preferably each of, quercitrin; and/or quercetrin-3-O- Acetyl Rhamnoside; and/or tri-O-galloyl-ß-D-glucose; and/or myricetin; and/or rhamnocitrin; and/orkaempferide; and/or calycosin and/or polydatin are present within the plant extract compositionand/or formulation at a concentration of at least 0.1%, preferably at least 1%, more preferably at least2%, even more preferably at least 5%, for example at least 10% w/w. ln one embodiment, theconcentration of one or more of, preferably each of, quercitrin; and/or quercetrin-3-O-AcetylRhamnoside; and/or tri-O-galloyl-ß-D-glucose; and/or myricetin; and/or rhamnocitrin; and/orkaempferide; and/or calycosin are present within the plant extract composition and/or formulation at a concentration of no more than 30%, preferably no more than 20%, for example no more than 10% w/w.ln one embodiment, the concentration of one or more of, preferably each of, quercitrin; and/or quercetrin-3-O-Acetyl Rhamnoside; and/or tri-O-galloyl-ß-D-glucose; and/or myricetin; and/orrhamnocitrin; and/or kaempferide; and/or calycosin are present within the plant extract compositionand/or formulation at a concentration within the range of between 0.1% and 30% w/w, more preferably within the range of between 0.1% and 20% w/w. ln one embodiment, one or more of, preferably each of, quercitrin; and/or quercetrin-3-O-AcetylRhamnoside; and/or tri-O-galloyl-ß-D-glucose are present within the first plant extract of the plantextract composition and/or formulation at a concentration of at least 0.1%, preferably at least 1%, morepreferably at least 2%, even more preferably at least 5%, for example at least 7% w/w. ln oneembodiment, the concentration ofone or more of, preferably each of, quercitrin; and/or quercetrin-3-O-Acetyl Rhamnoside; and/or tri-O-galloyl-ß-D-glucose are present within the first plant extract of theplant extract composition and/or formulation at a concentration of no more than 30%, more preferablyno more than 20%, for example no more than 17% w/w. ln one embodiment, the concentration ofoneor more of, preferably each of, quercitrin; and/or quercetrin-3-O-Acetyl Rhamnoside; and/or tri-O-galloyl-ß-D-glucose are present within the first plant extract of the plant extract composition and/orformulation at a concentration within the range of between 0.1% and 30% w/w, more preferably withinthe range of between 2% and 20% w/w, even more preferably within the range of 5% and 20% w/w, for example within the range of 5% and 17% w/w.
The first plant extract of the composition (and/or within the formulation) may comprise a greateramount of quercetrin-3-O-acetyl rhamnoside than quercitrin (% w/w). For example, the ratio ofquercetrin-3-O-Acetyl Rhamnoside to quercitrin within the first plant extract of the composition and/or within the formulation may be at least 1:1, for example about 2:1.
Tri-O-galloyl-ß-D-glucose may be present within the first plant extract at an amount which is equal toor greater than the amount of quercitrin. Tri-O-galloyl-ß-D-glucose may be present within the first plantextract at an amount which is less than or equal to the amount of quercetrin-3-O-acetyl rhamnoside.The ratio of tri-O-galloyl-ß-D-glucose to quercitrin within the first plant extract may be at least 1:1,preferably about 1.5:1. The ratio of quercetrin-3-O-acetyl rhamnoside to tri-O-galloyl-ß-D-glucose is preferably at least 1:1, for example 1.7:1. ln one embodiment, the first plant extract comprises: 0.1% to 30%, preferably 2% to 20%, more preferably 5 to 17%, for example 5 to 10% w/w quercitrin; and/or 0.1% to 30%, preferably 2% to 20%, more preferably 5 to 17%, for example 10 to 17% w/w of quercetrin- 3-O-acetyl rhamnoside; and optionally 0.1% to 30%, preferably 2% to 20%, more preferably 5 to 17%, for example 5 to 10% w/w tri-O-galloyl- ß-D-glucose. ln one embodiment, one or more of, preferably each of, myricetin; and/or rhamnocitrin; and/orkaempferide; and/or calycosin are present within the second plant extract of the plant extractcomposition and/or formulation at a concentration of at least 0.1%, preferably at least 0.2% w/w. lnone embodiment, the concentration of one or more of, preferably each of, myricetin; and/orrhamnocitrin; and/or kaempferide; and/or calycosin are present within the second plant extract of theplant extract composition and/or formulation at a concentration of no more than 10%, preferably nomore than 5%, more preferably no more than 3%w/w. ln one embodiment, the concentration ofone ormore of, preferably each of, myricetin; and/or rhamnocitrin; and/or kaempferide; and/or calycosin arepresent within the second plant extract of the plant extract composition and/or formulation at aconcentration within the range of between 0.1% and 10% w/w, more preferably within the range of between 0.2 %and 5% w/w, more preferably within the range of between 0.2% and 3% w/w.
The second plant extract of the composition (and/or within the formulation) may comprise a greateramount of myricetin than kaempferide (% w/w). For example, the ratio of myricetin to kaempferidewithin the second plant extract of the composition and/or within the formulation may be at least 1:1, for example about 2:1.
The second plant extract may further comprise one or more of: calycosin, polydatin, and anycombination thereof. The second plant extract may comprise a greater amount of calycosin and/orpolydatin than myricetin (% w/w). The ratio of calycosin to myricetin within the second plant extractof the composition and/or formulation may be at least 1:1, preferably at least 2:1, more preferably atleast 5:1, for example about 6:1. The ratio of polydatin to myricetin within the second plant extract ofthe composition and/or formulation may be at least 1:1, preferably at least 1.5:1, for example about 2:1. ln one embodiment, the second plant extract comprises:0.1% to 10%, preferably 0.2% to 5%, more preferably 0.2 to 3%, for example 0.2 to 1% w/w myricetin; and/or 0.1% to 10%, preferably 0.1% to 5%, more preferably 0.1 to 3%, for example 0.1 to 1% w/w of7 kaempferide; and optionally one or more, preferably each, of: 0.1% to 10%, preferably 0.2% to 5%, more preferably 0.2 to 3%, for example 0.2 to 2% w/w rhamnocitrin; and/or 0.1% to 10%, preferably 0.5% to 10%, more preferably 1 to 10%, for example 1 to 5% w/w calycosin; and/or 0.1% to 10%, preferably 0.2% to 5%, more preferably 0.2 to 3%, for example 0.2 to 2% w/w polydatin.
The ratio of one or more, or each, of quercitrin; and/or quercetrin-3-O-Acetyl Rhamnoside; and/or tri-O-galloyl-ß-D-glucose of the first plant extract to one or more, or each, of myricetin; and/orrhamnocitrin; and/or kaempferide; and/or calycosin of the second plant extract within the plant extractcomposition or formulation may be in the range of from 0.1: 1 to 10:1, preferably within the range of from 0.2:1 to 5:1, more preferably within the range of from 0.5:1 to 2:1, for example about 1:1.
The formulation(s) preferably further comprises excipients suitable for topical application to the skin.Preferably the formulation(s) is in the form of a cream, lotion or serum. The formulation may be in theform of a gel, cream, milk, lotion, serum, oil, scrub, powder, mask, toner, or the like. The formulationmay be in the form of a soap or a cleanser (such as a facial cleanser), a shampoo, a shower or bath gel.Furthermore, the formulation(s) may be in the form of a colour cosmetic product such as foundation,base for make-up, a concealer, pressed powder, mascara, or lipstick. The formulation(s) of the presentinvention may be incorporated into a wrap or film, a mask, a patch, a cloth or a blanket, a pad, a sheet,awipe, a pen or the like. The formulation(s) may be in the form of a leave-on topical product ,that is a product to be applied to the skin without a deliberate rinsing step soon afterapplication.
The formulation(s) may further comprise one or more additional agents selected from, but not limitedto, for example sunscreen, UV filter(s), depigmenting agents for lightening the skin tone of a subject, moisturising agents, further cosmetic agents and/or additional anti-ageing components.
The formulation(s) of the present invention may further comprise one or more of: silicones,emulsifiers, thickeners, powders, film formers, rheology modifying agents, propellants, fragrance,opacifiers, preservatives, colorants, pigments, buffers, chelating agents, sensory enhancers, and combinations thereof.
The formulation(s) of the present invention may further comprise one or more delivery agents toimprove the delivery of the actives of the formulation to the skin. The formulation(s) may further comprise one or more dermatologically acceptable vehicles or carriers. 8 The formu|ation(s) may be in the form of an emulsion, such as an oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oilemulsion, silicone-in-water emulsion, water-in-silicone emulsion, or a multiple emulsion such as atriple emulsion (for example water/oil/water emulsion), phase inversion temperature (P.|.T) emulsion,phase inversion concentration (P.|.C) emulsion, wax-in-water emulsion, microemulsion or D-phase gel or the like.
The formu|ation(s) may be in the form of a cream, gel, a solution, a dispersion, a paste, a solid, an alcohol based system, or an aerosol.
The formu|ation(s) may be hydrous or anhydrous compositions. The formu|ation(s) may be formulatedto be contained within vesicular systems, e.g. Phospholipid, letichin. Solid or semi-solid shellencapsulating materials may be used to encapsulate the formulation (or extract). The formu|ation(s)may be provided in a non-solvent or nan-aqueous system and packaged within one chamber of a dualchamber dispensing system in order to be mixed with a composition in the second chamber close to orat the point of application. The formulation could be provided in an essentially dry form, such as forexample as a powder, which may or may not be mixed with water or a second composition or formulation at the point of application.
The formu|ation(s) may be packaged in any suitable manner such as a jar, a bottle, a tube, a pump, apump dispenser tube, an aerosol or foam dispensing pump, a roll ball, a stick, a brush, a sachet, a capsule, an ampoule, or a pipette.
The combined plant extract composition or formulation of the present invention may be provided in the form of one or more of: a care, treatment, cleansing or protective product for skin; an anti-pollution composition; a composition for irritated skin; and/or an anti blemish composition, or any combination thereof.
The first and second plant extracts are obtained using standard methods of extraction. ln particular, the plant material is contacted with a solvent for a predetermined time period. After which, the solvent-plant material mixture is filtered. The extract is collected in the form of a filtrate.
Any portion of the plant material may be extracted, including roots, stems, leaves, seeds, flowers andfruit. Preferably, persicaria capitata is an in vitro plantlet and the whole plantlet is extracted.
Preferably, the seeds of the Astragalus complanatus are extracted.
The portion of the plant material is preferably dried and chopped and/or ground into smallerportions in order to provide an increased surface area prior to contacting with a solvent. The portionof the plant may be chopped and/or ground using any conventional technique, such as for exampleball milling. The portion of the plant may be ground or chopped to provide plant material particleshaving the desired dimensions for the extraction. For example, the dimensions of the chopped or ground plant material particles are preferably within the range of 0.01 mm to 0.1 mm.
The solvent is preferably water, more preferably pure water. lt is however to be understood that theplant may be extracted using any suitable solvent and is not limited to water extraction. For example,the plant may be extracted with ethanol or any other suitable solvents including supercritical gas andliquids. ln one embodiment, the extract may comprise a plurality of extracts obtained from separate methods of extraction blended together.
The plant material(s) may be extracted using for example maceration, Soxhlet extraction, extraction under reflux, or percolation.
The extraction medium comprising the plant material and the solvent is preferably agitated duringextraction. The extraction medium may be agitated using any suitable means such as for examplestirring or shaking or exposure to ultrasound. Preferably, the plant material is extracted usingultrasound-assisted extraction. The ultrasound may be provided at any suitable frequency, preferably at a frequency of 45 Hz.
The ratio of plant to solvent within the extraction medium is preferably at least 1:10, more preferablyabout 1:20. lt is however to be understood that the plant material and solvent may be present at any suitable ratios within the extraction medium.
Extraction may take place at any suitable temperature and/or pressure. The temperature of extraction is preferably carried out at room temperature (i.e. 25 OC). lt is however to be understood that theextraction medium may be heated or cooled as necessary depending onthe particular requirements for the extraction. The extraction is preferably carried out at atmospheric pressure.
The plant may be in contact with the solvent for any suitable period of time. The plant may be incontact with the solvent for at least 30 minutes, preferably at least an hour, for example 2 hours. Theplant is preferably in contact with the solvent for no more than 48 hours, preferably no more than 24 hours, more preferably no more than 10 hours, for example no more than 5 hours.
The method may further comprise evaporation or freeze drying of the extract.
The method may further comprise the step of purifying the extract to isolate one or more of the active agents of the extract to provide a purified or refined extract.
Additional features and advantages of embodiments of the present invention will now be described in more details in the following Examples with reference to the accompanying Figures.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES Figure 1A demonstrates the RP-HPLC Profile of the extract of Persicaria capitata obtained using the extraction method of Example 2; Figure 1B demonstrates the relative amounts of the components of the extract of Astragalus complanatus complanatus obtained using the extraction method of Example 1; Figure 2 demonstrates the anti-oxidant activity of the plant extracts of Persicaria capitata and Astragalus complanatus complanatus obtained using the extraction method of Example 2; Figure 3 demonstrates the anti-tyrosinase activity of the plant extracts of Persicaria capitata andAstragalus complanatus obtained using the extraction method of Example 2 and the combined plant extracts of Persicaria capitata and Astragalus complanatus; Figure 4 demonstrates the anti-glycation activity of the plant extracts of Persicaria capitata andAstragalus complanatus obtained using the extraction method of Example 2 and the combined plant extracts of Persicaria capitata and Astragalus complanatus; Figure 5 demonstrates the inhibition of pollution (DPM) induced production of MMP1 activity of theplant extracts of Persicaria capitata and Astragalus complanatus obtained using the extraction method of Example 2 and the combined plant extracts of Persicaria capitata and Astragalus complanatus; 11 Figure 6 illustrates spheroids that contain DP-MC and HaCaT; Figure 7 demonstrates the inhibition of MITF gene expression of the plant extracts of Persicariacapitata and Astragalus complanatus obtained using the extraction method of Example 2 and the combined plant extracts of Persicaria capitata and Astragalus complanatus; Figure 8 demonstrates the inhibition of melanin production in monoculture of the plant extracts ofPersicaria capitata and Astragalus complanatus obtained using the extraction method of Example 2 and the combined plant extracts of Persicaria capitata and Astragalus complanatus; and Figure 9 demonstrates the inhibition of melanin production in monoculture of the plant extracts ofPersicaria capitata and Astragalus complanatus obtained using the extraction method of Example 2 and the combined plant extracts of Persicaria capitata and Astragalus complanatus.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION The invention relates to a plant extract composition and a formulation which can help protect against,reduce, and/or alleviate the signs of ageing and/or skin damage conditions associated with exposure to pollution, such as for example urban darkening.
The biological activities of the plant extracts and the plant extract composition have been demonstratedusing an array of in vitro tests. The in vitro tests explored the influence of the plant extracts and theplant extract composition on key biological markers in the skin which are known to have an influence on skin ageing and/or skin damage conditions associated with exposure to pollution.
Example 1 - In vitro germination of Pesicaria capitate Steršlization of Seeds in vitro Persicarici copitato is raative to Asia and is an ornarraental plant. Persiccirio capitata is an evergreeriperennial plant forrnirag a ciurnp of creepšrig, rnuch-brancfaed Steins that become woody at the base.
“Tine sterns often form roots at leaf nodes, producing a dense mat of grovvtlfi about låcm night 12 One spatuia (Srnrn) of Persicorici capitata seeds are put into two Eppendorf tubes. The seeds areirnrnerged in ethanoi '?0% for 30 seconds. The alcohol is then pipetted off and discarded. The seeds areimrnersed into soditini hypochlorite for 20min. in the larninar fiow, the iiypochiorite is pipette off and replaced with steriie distiiied water. The seeds are tflrasified 5 times vvith sterile distiiled vvater.
Germination of steriie Persicorio copitoto seeds in vitro The Pefisicorio capitoto seeds vvere put directly onto a Petri dish vvith germination medium: Murashigeand Skoog medium mix ihciudihg vitamins TMS) lifigft, socrose 30 g/L and agar 6,5 g/l). The Persicoridcopitoto seedlings are then put for germination in the šncubator itemperatore 25°C and light löh and dark Sh cycle). After 8 days the seeds have germinated.
Growth and optirnunw conditions of plantlets Once the Pefsicario copitoto seeds have germinated, plantlets are suhculture onto fresh medium ingrowth boxes every three weeks with the foiiovring grovvth medium: iviurashige and Skoog mediurnmix šnciudšng vitarnins (MS) fifi-gji., sucrose 30 g/L, agar 6,5 g/L and benzyiamiiwopurine (BÅP)(Lfšrng/rnl. The optirnai growth cycle for harvesting is determihed to be 5 weeks for an optimai chemical composštion. Various growth lengths were tried (4 weeks, 5 34. vreeks and 7 weeks).
When harvested, the bottom part of the Persicario capitoto piantiet that grows in the agar medium is removed by cuttšng with a scaipei.
Example 2 - Extraction of the plant material lg of the dried plant material (either the Pesicaria captiata plantlets of Example 1 or Astragaluscomplanatus) were placed in an electrical mill and ground for 2 minutes. The grinding process wascarried out in a number of 20 second steps in order to prevent the increase of the temperature dueto frictional resistance. lt is to be understood that any suitable part of the plant may be used in the extraction method.
The aim of the grinding process was to increase the specific surface area of the plant material in orderto increase the surface area for exposure to a solvent. The increased surface area of the plant materialhas been found to increase the yield of extract and to reduce the time required to complete the extraction. After grinding, the plant material is present as particles having diameters in the range of13 from 0.01 to 0.1mm, preferably in the range of from 0.05 to 0.1 mm. Preferably, the average particlediameter ofthe plant material is in the range of from 0.01 to 0.1 mm, preferably in the range of from0.05 to 0.1 mm. lt is however to be understood that the extraction may be carried out using plantmaterial having any dimensions. lt has been found that by providing the plant material as particleshaving diameters, for example an average diameter, in the range of from 0.01 to 0.1 mm (preferablyin the range of from 0.05 to 0.1 mm) that aggregation of the particles within the solvent is reduced orprevented due to an increase in surface tension. Although in this example the plant material is groundprior to solvent extraction, it is to be understood that the plant material may be finely chopped or in some embodiments not be ground prior to contacting with a solvent.
After the grinding process, the resultant powder (0.05-0.1mm particle diameter) of plant material wasplaced in a container and stored in a refrigerator, protected from light until the moment of theextraction. lt is however to be understood that the resultant powder may be contacted with solvent immediately, or shortly, after the grinding process without the need to be stored within a refrigerator.
The ground powder is contacted with pure water. The extraction medium comprising the plantmaterial powder and the solvent (i.e. water) is agitated using Ultrasound-Assisted Water extraction. Theuse of ultrasound-assisted water extraction has the advantage that the time for extraction is reducedand the extract yield is improved while conserving the primitive metabolome from plant. lt is to beunderstood that the extraction may be carried out using any suitable solvent and is not to be limited to the use of pure water. 1g of ground powder was placed in a 45 mL Falcon type vial. 20 mL of pure water was added to thevial. The ratio of ground plant material: solvent is 1:20. lt is however to be understood that any suitable ratio of plant material: solvent may be used and the method of extraction is not limited to this ratio.
The solvent extraction was continued for a period of 2 hours. lt is again to be understood that theperiod of extraction may be greater or less than 2 hours depending on the particular requirements for the extraction.
The extraction was carried out at room temperature (25°C). lt is however to be understood that theextraction could be carried out at any suitable temperature. For example, the extraction mediumcomprising plant material and solvent may be warmed (or cooled) depending on the particular requirements for extraction.
During extraction, the extraction medium comprising plant material and solvent is agitated using 14 ultrasound. The ultrasound is delivered at a frequency of 45Hz. lt is however to be understood thatthe ultrasound may be delivered at any suitable frequency. Alternatively, agitation of the solventmixture may be provided with or without ultrasound. For example, agitation of the solvent mixturemay be provided by mixing or stirring. lt is also to be understood that in some embodiments the extraction may be carried out without agitation.
After completion of the extraction, the suspension of extraction medium was centrifuged and filtered.The medium was filtered by using 0.45 mm paper filter to provide a clear filtrate solution. The clear filtrate solution was pale-yellow in color. The clear filtrate solution was then dried using freeze drying.
The freeze-drying process was performed in 48h at 7uBar, with a condenser temperature of -110°C.After the freeze drying cycle, the extract was ready for the further phytochemical analysis and biological assay.
This method was carried out separately using Pesicaria capatita and Astragalus complanatus to provide extracts of each of these plant materials.
After freeze-drying, the extraction method yielded: a 17% crude extract obtained from the Pesicaria capatita plant, and a 10% crude extract obtained from the Astragalus complanatus plant Example 3 - Characterization of the Persicaria capitata in vitro plantlet Extract RP-HPLC Method All HPLC analysis were performed in an Agilent Zorbax Eclipse C18 1.7 uM 2.1 x 100 mm column held at35 °C and the flow rate is 0.2 ml/min. The gradient mobile phase comprise of water consisted of 0.1%formic acid solution (Solvent A), 100% acetonitrile (Solvent B). Each sample was resolved for 45 min ata flow rate of 0.2 ml/min. The UPLC gradient consisted of 98%A and 2%B for 5 min and then a ramp ofcurve 2-20% B and from 5 min to 20.0 min, followed by a ramp of curve 20-40% B from 20.0 to 30.0 min, a ramp to 98% B from 30.0 min to 35.0 min, a ramp to 98% A from 35.0 min to 45.0 min.
The results are shown in Figure 1A.
Compound Detection The main compounds of the extract of Persicaria capitata (the first plant extract) were analysed using LC-MS. The extract of Persicaria capitata (the first plant extract) was found to comprise 19 maincompounds. The main compounds of the Persicaria capitata extract comprise: flavanols, flavonols andgallic acid derivatives. The flavanols present within the extract comprise quercetin and kaempferol.The flavonols present within the extract comprise taxifolin and catechin. The gallic acid derivatives present within the extract comprise mono-, di-, tri-, tetra- and penta- glucosidic derivatives.
The main compounds present within the extract of Persicaria capitata (the first plant extract) were found to be: Quercitrin: Quercetin-š-O-Acetyl Rhamnoside tri-O-galloyl-ß-D-glucose The chemical analysis of the extract of Persicaria capitata (the first plant extract) is illustrated in Table 1: 16 Peak Compou nd Formula MW % w/w1 Galloyl-b-D-Glucose C13H16010 332,26 0,122 Di-O-Galloyl-ß-D-Glucose lsomer C20H20014 484,37 1,803 Di-O-Galloyl-ß-D-Glucose lsomer C20H20014 484,37 0,794 Tri-O-Galloyl-ß-D-Glucose lsomer C27H24018 636,47 4,625 Tri-O-Galloyl-ß-D-Glucose lsomer C27H24018 636,47 1,466 Tri-O-Galloyl-ß-D-Glucose lsomer C27H24018 636,47 3,507 (2R,3R)-Taxifolin-3'-O-ß-D-G|ucose C21H22013 466,40 0,378 Tetra-O-Galloyl-ß-D-Glucose lsomer C34H28022 788,58 0,219 Tetra-O-Galloyl-ß-D-Glucose lsomer C34H28022 788,58 2,6010 (-)-Epicatechin Gallate C22H18010 442,37 0,9111 lsoquercetrin C21 H20012 464,38 0,4412 Quercitrin C21H20011 448,38 7,0913 Kaempferol-7-ß-D-Glucose C21H20011 448,38 0,1314 7-Acyl-Quercetin-3'-Glycoside C23H22013 506,42 1,7915 Apigenin-7-ß-D-Glucose C21H20010 432,32 2,4916 Quercetin-3-O-Acetyl Rhamnoside C23H22012 490,41 16,2717 Kaempferol-3-O-Acetyl Rhamnoside C23H22011 473,41 4,82 Table 1 Example 4 - Characterization of the Astragalus complanatus Extract RP-HPLC Method An aliquot of 20 uL of sample solution (10mg/mL) was injected into Agilent Zorbax Eclipse C18 1.7 uM2.1 >< 100 mm column held at 35 °C and the flow rate was 0.2 mL/min. The gradient mobile phasecomprised of water consisted of 0.1% formic acid solution (Solvent A), 100% acetonitrile (Solvent B).Each sample was resolved for 45 min at a flow rate of 0.2 mL/min. The UPLC gradient consisted of 98%A and 2% B for 5 min and then a ramp of curve 2-20% B and from 5 min to 20.0 min, followed by a rampof curve 20-40% B from 20.0 to 30.0 min, a ramp to 98% B from 30.0 min to 35.0 min, a ramp to 98% A from 35.0 min to 45.0 min.
Figure 1B illustrates the relative amounts of the components within the extract.
Compound Detection 22 Main Compounds were determined by LC-MS. The compounds can be grouped into the followingchemical classes: flavonols, isoflavonones, stilbenoids and saponins. The flavonols present within theextract comprise: myricetin, rhamnocitrin and kaempferol. The isoflavones present within the extract comprise: calycosin. The saponins derivatives present within the extract comprise soyasaponins.
The main compounds present within the Astragalus complanantus extract were: Myricetin: 17 The complete list of components present within the extract are illustrated in Table 2: Rhamnocitrin Kaempferide Calycosin Peak Compound Formula MW %w/w1 Myricetin 3-O-ß-D-xylopyranosyl(1*2)-ß-D-glucopyranoside C26H28017 612.49 3,162 3',5-dihydroxy-4'-methoxyisoflavone-7-O-ß-D-gIucopyranoside C22H22011 462.40 0,933 Myricetin-3-Rutinoside C27H30017 626.52 0,594 Myricetin-3-Glucoside C21H20013 480.37 1,715 (E)-3-(beta-D-glucopyranosyloxy)-5-hydroxy-4'-methylstilbene C21H2408 404.41 0,376 Polydatin C20H2208 390.38 0,967 Myricetin-3-Rhamnoside C21H20012 464.38 0,598 Myricetin-7-Glucoside C21H20013 480.37 1,89 Astragalin C21H20011 448.38 1,0510 Myricetin C15H1008 318.23 0,4311 Rhamnocitrin 3-apiosyl-(1->2)-glucoside C27H30015 594.52 0,6912 Nicotiflorin C32H40020 744.65 0,6913 Rhamnocitrin-3-Glucoside C21H20013 480.37 0,8914 Rhamnocitrin 3-(6"-acetylglucoside) C24H24012 504.44 0,3115 Calycosin C16H1205 284.26 2,3916 Rhamnocitrin 7-apiosyl-(1->2)-glucoside C27H30015 594.52 2,6717 Astragaloside VIII C47H76017 913.09 1,2218 Rhamnocitrin 7-(6"-acetylglucoside) C24H24012 504.44 0,3819 Rhamnocitrin 3-(5"'-ferulylapiosyl)-(1->2)-glucoside C37H38018 770.69 0,6720 7-Hydroxy-3-(4-methoxy-phenyl)-chromen-4-on C16H1204 268.26 0,7321 Rhamnocitrin C16H1206 300.26 0,8522 Soyasaponin II C47H76017 913.09 1,2223 Soyasaponinl C48H78018 943.12 1,3624 Liquiritin C21H2209 418.39 0,2425 Quercitrin C21H20011 448.38 0,2326 ChIorogenicAcid C16H1809 354.31 2,19 18 Peak Compound Formula MW % w/w27 Resveratrol C14H1203 228.24 0,7128 Robinin C33H40019 740.66 0,529 Kaempferide C16H1206 300.26 0,2430 lsokaempferide C16H1206 300.26 0,2731 7,3',4'-Trihydroxyflavone 7-glucoside C21H20010 432.38 0,23Table 25 Example 5 - Anti-Oxidant ActivityThe first plant extract PCA020 (from Persicaria captita) and second plant extract AST007 (fromAstragalus complanatus) obtained according to the method of Example 1 were analysed separately todetermine the anti-oxidant activity.Method2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical (DPPH.) is a stable free radical which can be used to assess theradical scavenging activity of plant materials. At radical state, the methanolic solution of thiscompound is purple (absorbs light at wavelength of 516 nm) which when reacts with an antioxidant it15 is reduced to the molecular form (DPPHH) which is yellow with no absorbance at 516 nm.DPPH assay principleThe primary screening assays are performed according the validated standard protocols i.e. SP-SR-107-v3 for DPPH Assay.ResultsThe anti-oxidant activities are shown in Figure 2. lt can be seen that the extracts of Astragalus complanatusand Persicaria capitata show very good antioxidant activity at 1mM ponderate and are compared to theantioxidant activity of Green Tea. The ICSO of the extracts has been determined: |C50 Astragalus complanatus = 729uM i 75,6uM (n=2) |C50 Persicaria capitata = 276uM i 55,6uM (n=2)19 Example 6 - Anti-tyrosinase activity Tyrosinase is an enzyme that is involved in the melanin Synthesis. So tyrosinase inhibition is a common approach for depigmentation purposes. š 'i x f - z;t __ _ ”ïzfrasmse W§=~š§§+~°;.~<>'"§'>§r:->\ fi-“íäëïSë-fi \w” ÅAe Tyrosisxxs-ss t t. _ . Mmå M “___ \\?___.\,.-.,.s. .x\ : q ¿~§-°š\.\\._\-*: iï-*wtæüiæwzwræemi: ti,4 I å s; Q_\\\_.\\-\\:__.w_, H s i ßflzflflmws. . _. "}“. 'ßwšßfiæx Melanin synthesis The primary screening assays are performed according the validated standard protocols i.e. SP-SR-149 for Tyrosinase Assay. The results are shown in Figure 3.
Each of the Astragalus complanatus (AST) and Persicaria capitata (PCA) extracts are found to show mediumtyrosinase inhibition at lmM and are therefore considered to be inhibitors of tyrosinase enzyme. lt can beseen that the plant extract composition (AST/PCA) comprising a combination of the Astragalus complanatusand Persicaria capitata extracts does not show any significant improvement in tyrosinase inhibition compared to the activities of the separate extracts.
Example 7 - Anti-glycation Activity Advanced g|ycation end-products (AGEs) are formed during non-enzymatic reactions invo|ving proteins (example: collagen) and sugars, i.e. the Maillard or browning reaction. “t ff _ .J .~. .« .« f ' møtsšn ~. ~g M ÄÉIÉÉÉÉÅÜ» üiíïrg,___,_-..- szzsxsx-znsæ (Ü šväessfæxswsmïsxsxQ m WW _ _.-- -*\\\\*'\- ss--sï--zs-si mm» (ââotazšï-AGE-»fir ruløsšxï) “W “š:M ms: f» s; fm exsdat-mn -- “WW sïsf-æsàše*Rßwif <~'“=*^*“ crussàinked and :šefsïišïëišgiueuge Sankt? base ñamagëü proteâns The assay is an anti-AGE fluorescence-based assay that measure the fluorescence spectrum of AGEs formed from bovine serum albumin (BSA) and ribose. The protein and sugar used in this assay allow a screeningafter only 24h at 37°C through a measurement of AGE fluorescence Åexc 370nm; Åem 440nm. The primaryscreening assays are performed according the validated standard protocols i.e. SP-SR-168-v2 for Anti- Glycation Assay. The results are shown in Figure 4.
Astragalus complanatus (AST) and Persicaria capitata (PCA) extracts are shown to exhibit medium anti-glycation activity with 366% and 38.5% inhibition respectively at lmM ponderate. However, the plantextract composition (AST/PCA) of the present invention comprising a combination of Astragaluscomplanatus and Persicaria capitata extracts demonstrates a good synergistic effect with a 61.2% inhibition of glycation (Figure 4).
Example 8 - lnhibition of pollution (DPM) induced production of MMP1 The aim of this assay is to study and inhibit pollution (diesel particulate matter, DPM) induced MMP1production in human dermal fibroblasts. This assay is a paracrine assay where the media from DPM stimulated primary keratinocytes is used to activate dermal fibroblasts.
The keratinocytes were cultured to approximately 80% confluence and then cultured in the presence ofdiesel particulate matter, DPM, 10ug/ml (1650b, National Institute of Standards and Technology). The media was collected after 24h.
Fibroblasts were then cultured to approximately 80% confluence and pretreated with compound/extract forlh before the addition of media from the DPM treated keratinocytes. After 24h incubation the fibroblastmedia was collected and analyzed with a MMP1 ELISA (Sigma Aldrich) according to manufacturer's instructions. Results are shown in Figure 5. lt can be seen from Figure 5 that the Astragalus complanatus extract (AST-007) shows about 40% inhibitionof the pollution (DPM) induced production of MMP1. lt can also be seen that the Persicaria capitata extract (PCA-020) shows about 70% inhibition of the pollution (DPM) induced production of MMP1.
Example 9 - lnhibition of MITF gene expression in mono-culture.
Microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) is the key regulator of the melanogenesis. lt can bindto multiple promotors effecting not only the melanogenesis but also cell survival, differentiation as well as morphology. The inhibition of MITF gene expression may result in the inhibition of melanin production. No 21 inhibition of MITF does not mean that the compound does not inhibit the melanin production, it is just not through this pathway. qPCR was used to analyze the MITF gene expression. Human epidermal dark pigmented melanocytes (DP-MC) were cultured in 48-well plates and treated for 24h with actives before RNA extraction followed bycDNA synthesis and then qPCR was performed for MITF gene expression. GAPDH was used as the housekeeping gene.
Spheroids were made by mixing DP-MC and immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) with GelTrex and CaClz andseeding the mixture in 96-well spheroid plates, which are low attachments leading the cells to bind to eachother and create spheroids, see figure 6. Spheroids were treated for 24h before two wells were pooled foreach sample and RNA extraction, cDNA synthesis and qPCR was performed for MITF gene expression with GAPDH as the housekeeping gene.
The extracts were screened to see if they inhibit the MITF gene expression when treating melanocytes withthe extracts alone and in combination. AST007 was normalized to Calycosin while PCA020 was normalizedto Quercitrin. The results are shown in Figure 7. lt can be seen that when treating the cells with only oneof the extracts no effect was seen on the MITF gene expression. However, treating the cells with a plantextract composition of the present invention results in the inhibition of MITF gene expression with 16%. ltcan therefore be shown that the plant extract composition of the present invention has a synergistic effect on inhibition of MITF gene expression compared to the use of the extracts alone.
Example 10 - |nhibition of melanin production in mono-culture and in spheroids.
Melanocytes are the cells in the skin that produce the skin pigment, melanin, through a process calledmelanogenesis. With age, it is common to get pigmentation spots, darker areas on the skin. They are oftencaused by sun exposure but other reasons are hormone changes as well as exposure to air pollution. Froma cosmetic point of view, it is desirable to minimize the appearance of these age spots in order to get a more even skin tone.
DP-MC are seeded in 6-well plates and treated with actives for 5 days. After 5 days they are detached, spundown and resuspended in 1M NaOH. NaOH in combination with heat dissolved the melanin which releasedfrom the cells. Melanin is than measured spectrophotometrically and normalized to protein levels, also measured spectrophotometrically through the bicinchoninic acid assay, see SP-SR-182 for details. 22 Spheroids were made by mixing DP-MC and (HaCaT) with GelTrex and CaClz and seeding the mixture in 96-well spheroid plates, which are low attachments leading the cells to bind to each other and create spheroids.Spheroids were treated for 5 days before 22 wells were pooled spun down and resuspended in 1M NaOH.
Same procedure as for melanocytes after this, see SP-SR-205 for details.
Astragalus complanatus extract (AST007) and Persicaria capitata in vitro plantlet extract (PCA020) weretested alone and in combination (AST007 and PCA020) as the plant extract composition of the presentinvention. Results are shown in Figure 8. lt can be seen that neither of the extracts when tested aloneinhibit melanin production in mono culture. However, Figure 8 illustrates that melanin production can beinhibited by combining the two extracts within a plant extract composition. The plant extract compositionof the present invention can therefore be seen to provide a synergistic effect on the inhibition of melanin production. ln spheroids, the extracts were tested both on their own (Astragalus complanatus extract (AST007) andPersicaria capitata extract (PCA020)) and in combination (AST+PCA). lt can be seen from Figure 9 that (asfor the monoculture) only the combination of the two extracts within the plant extract composition of thepresent invention (AST+PCA) showed significant inhibition of melanin production. The extracts fromAstragalus complanatus extract (AST007) and Persicaria capitata extract (PCA020) have been shown to notinhibit melanin production on their own. ln contrast, the plant extract composition of the present invention has been shown to inhibit production of melanin in both mono-culture and in spheroids.
The present invention provides a plant extract composition, and a formulation comprising the plant extractcomposition, which demonstrates good anti-oxidant properties, good anti-glycation properties, goodtyrosinase inhibition properties, good inhibition of pollution DPM induced production of MMP1, goodinhibition of MITF gene expression, and good inhibition of melanin production. lt has further beendiscovered that the plant extract composition and formulation of the present invention provides asynergistic effect with regards to the anti-glycation properties, and inhibition properties of MITF geneexpression and melanin production in comparison to use of the two separate plant extracts alone. As aresult, the present invention therefore provides a plant extract composition and formulation which are ableto be effective in protecting against, and/or alleviating, and/or reducing and/or minimizing the signs of skinageing and/or the signs of a skin damage condition associated with exposure to pollution. The compositions and formulations of the present invention may therefore be used to treat or inhibit conditions such as urban darkening and dark spots. 23

Claims (8)

1. A plant extract composition comprising a first and a second plant extract, in which the plant extract composition comprises one or more of:5 quercitrin; and/orquercetrin-3-O-Acetyl Rhamnoside; and optionallytri-O-galloyl-ß-D-glucose; andone or more of:myricetin; and/or10 kaempferide; and optionally one or more of: rhamnocitrin and/or calycosin and/or polydatin.
2. A plant extract composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the first plant extract comprises one or more of:15 quercitrin; and/orquercetrin-3-O-Acetyl Rhamnoside; and optionally tri-O-galloyl-ß-D-glucose;and the second plant extract comprising one or more of:myricetin; and/orkaempferide; and optionally one or more of: 20 rhamnocitrin and/or calycosin and/or polydatin.
3. A plant extract composition as claimed in either of claims 1 and 2, in which the first plant extract is a Persicaria captitata extract.
4. A plant extract composition as claimed in claim 3, in which the first plant extract is a Persicaria 25 capitata in vitro plantlet extract.
5. A plant extract composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the second plant extract is a Astragalus complanatus extract.
6. A plant extract composition as claimed in any preceding claim, in which at least one of the first and second plant extracts are water extracts. 30
7. A plant extract composition as claimed in any preceding claim, in which the first plant extract comprises quercitrin and quercetrin-3-O-Acetyl Rhamnoside.
8. A plant extract composition as claimed in any preceding claim, in which the second plant extract 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. comprises myrecitin and kaempferide.A formulation comprising a plant extract composition as claimed in any preceding claim. A formulation as claimed in claim 9, in which the formulation is a cosmetic or pharmaceutical skin formulation. A formulation as claimed in either of claims 9 and 10, in which the formulation is an anti-pollution formulation. A plant composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 8 or a formulation as claimed in any oneof claims 9 to 11, in which the ratio of the first plant extract to the second plant extract within the composition or formulation may be in the range of from 0.1: 1 to 10:1. A plant composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 8 or a formulation as claimed in any oneof claims 9 to 11, in which the concentration ofone or more of: quercitrin; and/or quercetrin-3-O-Acetyl Rhamnoside; and/or tri-O-galloyl-ß-D-glucose; and/or myricetin; and/or rhamnocitrin;and/or kaempferide; and/or calycosin are present within the plant extract composition or formulation at a concentration within the range of between 0.1% and 50% w/w. Use of a plant composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 8 or a formulation as claimed inany one of claims 9 to 11 for protecting against, and/or alleviating, and/or reducing and/orminimizing the signs of skin ageing and/or the signs of a skin damage condition associated with exposure to pollution. Use of a plant composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 8 or a formulation as claimed inany one of claims 9 to 11 as one or more of: an antioxidant; and/or a tyrosinase inhibitor; and/ora melanin production inhibitor; and/or MITF gene expression inhibitor; and/or any combination thereof. Use of a plant composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 8 or a formulation as claimed inany one of claims 9 to 11 to prevent, alleviate and/or reduce one or more signs of skin ageingand/or skin damage associated with one or more of: uneven skin tone, pollution-induced MMP1 secretion, glycation, exposure to pollution, exposure to free radicals, or any combination thereof.
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