RU2813139C2 - Conditioning composition for hair - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: hair care.

SUBSTANCE: group of inventions relates to hair care compositions. The hair care composition contains a conditioning gel phase together with an aqueous emulsion of branched organopolysiloxane, containing monomeric units of silsesquioxane, having the formula (RSiO_3/2)_n, where n = 1, R represents an alkyl group, and copolymer segments of polydialkylsiloxane; wherein the conditioning gel phase is derived from a cationic surfactant, a fatty compound with a melting point of 25°C or higher, and an aqueous carrier; and the aqueous emulsion of a branched organopolysiloxane contains an aqueous dispersion phase containing water and a cationic surfactant or a mixture of nonionic and cationic surfactants, and a disperse phase containing a branched polyorganosiloxane and a hydrocarbon oil, wherein said aqueous emulsion has a particle size of Dv(50) from 5 to less than 12 microns. Also the use of the composition for increased deposition of silicone onto damaged hair is disclosed.

EFFECT: group of inventions provides increased silicone deposition, especially in damaged parts of the hair.

11 cl, 3 tbl, 2 ex

Description

Field of technology

The present invention relates to hair care compositions containing an oil-in-water emulsion of non-linear organopolysiloxane.

State of the art

Shampooing cleanses the hair by removing impurities and excess oil from the sebaceous glands. However, shampooing can leave your hair feeling wet, tangled and generally difficult to style. Once dry, hair is often left dry, coarse, lacking shine or prone to frizz due to the removal of the hair's natural oils and other natural conditioning and moisturizing components. If the hair or parts of the hair are damaged, then shampooing will certainly make the hair worse as compared to shampooed normal hair. A variety of approaches have been developed for hair conditioning. A common method of providing beneficial conditioning effects to hair is through the use of conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants and polymers, high melting point fatty compounds, low melting point oils, silicone compounds and mixtures thereof. Silicones are well known and are one of the preferred types of conditioning agents.

Despite existing solutions in the art, it remains possible to increase the beneficial effects provided by conditioning hair care compositions. In particular, there is a need for hair care compositions that can provide increased silicone deposition, especially in damaged parts of the hair.

WO 2016/041748 discloses a hair care composition which can be prepared by mixing a conditioning gel phase with an aqueous polydimethylsiloxane polymer emulsion; wherein the conditioning gel phase is derived from a cationic surfactant, a high melting point fatty compound (25 °C or higher) and an aqueous carrier; and the aqueous emulsion of polydimethylsiloxane polymer contains an aqueous dispersion phase consisting of water and a mixture of nonionic and cationic surfactants, and a disperse phase consisting of polydimethylsiloxane polymer and hydrocarbon oil, and the polydimethylsiloxane polymer has a dynamic viscosity of 50,000 to 110,000 cP at 25 °C , and the hydrocarbon oil has a kinematic viscosity of 1x10-6 to 35x10-6 m²/s (1 to 35 cSt) at 40 °C and a specific gravity of 0.76 to 0.87 at 25 °C, and the weight ratio of polydimethylsiloxane polymer to hydrocarbon oil is from 45:55 to 70:30.

It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a hair care composition that can provide increased deposition of silicone onto the hair.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a hair care composition that can provide increased deposition of silicone onto damaged hair.

Surprisingly, it has been discovered that the above objectives can be achieved using a hair care composition containing a conditioning gel phase together with an aqueous emulsion of non-linear organopolysiloxane containing an aqueous dispersion phase containing water and a cationic surfactant or a mixture of non-ionic and cationic surfactant. active substances, and a dispersed phase containing nonlinear polyorganosiloxane and hydrocarbon oil, wherein said aqueous emulsion has a particle size Dv(50) of less than 12 μm.

Brief description of the invention

Accordingly, in a first aspect of the present invention there is provided a hair care composition comprising a conditioning gel phase together with an aqueous emulsion of a branched organopolysiloxane containing silsesquioxane monomer units having the formula

(RSiO3/2)n, where n = 1,

R represents an alkyl group, preferably methyl, ethyl or propyl,

and copolymer segments of polydialkylsiloxane; wherein the conditioning gel phase is derived from a cationic surfactant, a high melting point fatty compound (25 °C or higher) and an aqueous carrier; and the aqueous emulsion of a branched organopolysiloxane contains an aqueous dispersion phase containing water and a cationic surfactant or a mixture of nonionic and cationic surfactants, and a disperse phase containing a branched polyorganosiloxane and a hydrocarbon oil, wherein said aqueous emulsion has a particle size of Dv(50) from 5 to less than 12 microns.

The second aspect of the present invention provides the use of a composition in accordance with the present invention for increased deposition of silicone on damaged hair.

These and other aspects, features and advantages will become apparent to those skilled in the art upon reading the following detailed description and the accompanying claims. For the avoidance of doubt, any feature of one aspect of the present invention may be used in any other aspect of the present invention. The word "comprising" is intended to mean "including" but not necessarily "consisting of" or "composed of". In other words, the stages or options listed are not intended to be exhaustive. It should be noted that the examples given below in the present description are intended to illustrate the present invention and are not intended to limit the present invention to these examples per se. Likewise, all percentages are percentages by weight/mass unless otherwise noted. Except in practical and comparative examples, or unless otherwise expressly indicated, all numerical values in this specification indicating amounts of substance or reaction conditions, physical properties of substances and/or applications are to be understood as containing the word “about.” Numerical ranges expressed in the format "x to y" should be understood to include x and y. Where multiple preferred ranges are described in the format "x to y" for a particular attribute, it is understood that all ranges combining the different endpoints are also considered.

Detailed Description of the Invention

Conditioning gel phase

Examples of suitable cationic surfactants that can be used to formulate the conditioning gel phase include quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants having the following general formula:

[N(R1)(R2)(R3)(R4)]+(X)-,

wherein R1, R2, R3 and R4 are each independently selected from (a) an aliphatic group containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or (b) an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group containing up to 22 carbon atoms ; and X is a salt-forming anion, such as anions selected from halide (eg, chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfate and alkylsulfate radicals.

Aliphatic groups may contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether bonds and other groups such as amino groups. Longer chain aliphatic groups, such as those containing about 12 carbon atoms or more, may be saturated or unsaturated.

Specific examples of such cationic quaternary ammonium surfactants corresponding to the above general formula include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (BTAC), cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride , octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallothrimethylammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2-oleylammonium chloride and salts thereof, where the chloride is replaced by another halide (for example, bromide), and cetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate , phosphate, nitrate, sulfate or alkyl sulfate.

In a preferred class of cationic surfactants of the above general formula, R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C16-C22 alkyl chain, and R2, R3 and R4 are each independently selected from CH3 and CH2CH2OH, preferably CH3.

Specific examples of such preferred quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants for use in preparing the conditioning gel phase include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (CTAC), behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (BTAC), and mixtures thereof.

Alternatively, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines in combination with an acid can be used to prepare a cationic surfactant suitable for providing a conditioning gel phase suitable for use in the present invention. The acid protonates the amine to form an amine salt in situ in the hair care composition. Thus, the amine is essentially an unstable quaternary ammonium or pseudo-quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant.

Suitable fatty amines of this type include amidoamines of the following general formula:

R1-C(O)-N(H)-R2-N(R3)(R4),

where R1 represents a fatty acid chain containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, R2 represents an alkylene group containing from one to four carbon atoms, and R3 and R4 each independently represents an alkyl group containing from one to four carbon atoms.

Specific examples of suitable substances of the above general formula are stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopro pyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine and diethylaminoethylstearamide.

Also suitable for use are dimethylstearamine, dimethylsoamine, soyaamine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, N-(tallo)propanediamine, ethoxylated (5 moles of ethylene oxide) stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine and arachidylbehenylamine. Particularly preferred is stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

The acid used may be any organic or mineral acid that is capable of protonating the amine in the hair care composition. Suitable acids include hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the acid is selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid and mixtures thereof.

Mixtures of any of the cationic surfactants described above may also be suitable.

Suitable cationic surfactant content is in the range of 0.1 to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.2 to 5 wt. % and more preferably from 0.25 to 4 wt. % (based on the total weight of the cationic surfactant based on the total weight of the hair care composition).

"High melting point" in the context of the present invention generally means a melting point of 25 °C or higher. Typically, the melting point is in the range of 25°C to 90°C, preferably 40°C to 70°C, and more preferably 50°C to about 65°C.

The high melting point fatty compound may be used as a single compound or as a combination or mixture of at least two high melting point fatty compounds. In the case where a combination or mixture of fatty compounds is used, the melting point means the melting point of the said combination or mixture.

Suitable fatty compounds of this type have the general formula R-X, where R is an aliphatic carbon chain and X is a functional group (eg, an alcohol or a carboxylic acid, or a derivative thereof such as an ester or amide).

R is preferably a saturated aliphatic carbon chain containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

R may contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether bonds and other groups such as amino groups. Preferably, R is a linear alkyl chain containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

X preferably represents a -OH group.

Most preferably, the fatty compound is a fatty alcohol with the general formula CH3(CH2)nOH, where n is an integer from 7 to 29, preferably from 15 to 21.

Specific examples of suitable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.

Mixtures of any of the fatty compounds described above may also be suitable.

Suitable fatty compound contents range from 0.01 to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 to 8 wt. %, more preferably from 0.2 to 7 wt. % and most preferably from 0.3 to 6 wt. % (of the total weight of the fatty compound based on the total weight of the hair care composition).

A suitable weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty compound is 1:1 to 1:10, preferably 1:1.5 to 1:8, optimally 1:2 to 1:5.

Conditioning gel phases suitable for use according to the present invention can be characterized as gel (Lβ) surfactant mesophases, consisting of double layers of surfactants.

In a general process for preparing such conditioning gel phases, a cationic surfactant, a high melting point fatty compound, and an aqueous carrier are heated to form a mixture, which is cooled with shear stirring to room temperature. During cooling, the resulting mixture undergoes a series of phase transitions, typically resulting in a gel (Lβ) surfactant mesophase consisting of double layers of surfactant. The bilayers can grow, swell, or fold to form extended sheets or spherical vesicles.

Preferably, the formation of the gel (Lβ) mesophase of the surfactant is controlled by maintaining the temperature of the mixture so that it is within a predetermined range in the mixing vessel, typically from about 55 to about 67 °C.

In one example of such a preferred method, the fatty compound and the cationic surfactant may be "co-melted" in the first vessel to produce an isotropic phase. The resulting joint melt will typically contain from 45 to 90 wt. % fatty alcohol of the general formula CH3(CH2)nOH, where n is an integer from 7 to 29, preferably from 15 to 21; from 10 to 40 wt. % cationic surfactant of the general formula [N(R1)(CH3)3]+(X)-, where R1 represents a saturated C16-C22 alkyl chain and X represents a halide; and from 0 to 15 wt. % water (by weight based on the total mass of the joint melt). The co-melt in the first vessel is typically maintained at a temperature sufficient to maintain the fat series compound in the liquid phase (usually about 80-85°C). The comelt is then added to a second vessel containing water at a temperature of about 50 to about 60°C and the comelt and water are mixed. In the second vessel, the temperature of the co-melt and water mixture is adjusted to maintain it at 56 to 65 °C, preferably 58 to 62 °C, more preferably about 60 °C. The cationic surfactant that is a component of the comelt described above may also contain or consist of a fatty amidoamine of the general formula:

R1-C(O)-N(H)-R2-N(R3)(R4),

where R1 represents a fatty acid chain containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, R2 represents an alkylene group containing from one to four carbon atoms, and R3 and R4 each independently represents an alkyl group containing from one to four carbon atoms. In this case, the water in the second vessel will suitably contain from 0.01 to 3 wt. % organic or mineral acid that is capable of protonating a fatty amidoamine.

In an alternative example of a preferred method, the co-melt (such as described above) and water may be independently added to a mixing vessel and mixed in a continuous process in which the temperature of the co-melt and water mixture is controlled by varying the temperature of the water added to the mixture. Water can be added in a single dose or in aliquots. Typically, the water in the first vessel is maintained at a temperature of approximately 40 °C and pumped into the mixing vessel, while the water in the second vessel is maintained at a temperature sufficient to change the temperature of the water-co-melt mixture so that it is at the above required range.

In another example of a preferred method, a fatty compound and a cationic surfactant can be combined to form an aqueous dispersion. In accordance with this method, an aqueous dispersion is obtained, which, as a rule, contains from 25 to 50 wt. % water, from 4 to 20 wt. % fatty alcohol of the general formula CH3(CH2)nOH, where n is an integer from 7 to 29, preferably from 15 to 21; and from 1 to 5 wt. % fatty amidoamine general formula:

R1-C(O)-N(H)-R2-N(R3)(R4),

where R1 represents a fatty acid chain containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, R2 represents an alkylene group containing from one to four carbon atoms, and each R3 and R4 independently represents an alkyl group containing from one to four carbon atoms (each mass based on the total mass of the dispersion). Preferably, the temperature of the aqueous dispersion is maintained above the melting point of the fatty alcohol, preferably at least 5 °C above the melting point of the fatty alcohol. Then, a cationic surfactant of the general formula [N(R1)(CH3)3]+(X)-, where R1 is a saturated C16-C22 alkyl chain and X is a halide, can be added and mixed with the aqueous dispersion, usually in an amount from 0.5 to 5 wt. % (by weight based on the total weight of the mixture).

Preferably, mixing of the cationic surfactant with the aqueous dispersion is controlled by determining the viscosity so that when the change in viscosity reaches a plateau, mixing is complete (typically after about 20-60 minutes of mixing). Once mixing is complete, the fatty amidoamine is neutralized using the appropriate acid described above. Preferably, the temperature of the mixture of aqueous dispersion and cationic surfactant is maintained at 56 to 67 °C, preferably 58 to 65 °C, more preferably about 63 °C. Preferably, said method is a batch process.

Another preferred method of preparing a conditioning gel phase suitable for use according to the present invention involves preparing an aqueous isotropic solution of a cationic surfactant (typically of the general formula [N(R1)(CH3)3]+ (X)-, where

R1 represents a saturated alkyl chain C16-C22 and X represents a halide); and mixing the resulting aqueous isotropic solution of the cationic surfactant with a molten fatty compound (typically a fatty alcohol of the general formula CH3(CH2)nOH, where n is an integer from 7 to 29, preferably from 15 to 21). Typically, the fatty alcohol is maintained at a temperature sufficient to maintain it in the liquid phase (usually about 80-85 °C), after which it is added to an aqueous isotropic solution of the cationic surfactant. Preferably, the temperature of the mixture of fatty alcohol and aqueous isotropic solution is maintained at 55°C to 65°C, more preferably 58°C to 62°C, and most preferably about 60°C.

Aqueous emulsion of nonlinear polyorganosiloxane

The hair care composition of the present invention is prepared by mixing a conditioning gel phase with an aqueous emulsion containing an aqueous disperse phase consisting of water and a cationic surfactant or a mixture of non-ionic and cationic surfactants, and an internal disperse phase consisting of a non-linear polyorganosiloxane and hydrocarbon oil. Preferably, the weight ratio of organopolysiloxane to oil is from 40:60 to 65:35, more preferably from 50:50 to 65:35, even more preferably from 55:45 to 65:35, most preferably 60:40.

The nonlinear polyorganosiloxane according to the present invention contains monomer units of silsesquioxane having the formula (RSiO3/2)n,

where n = 1;

R represents an alkyl group, preferably methyl, ethyl or propyl, more preferably methyl;

and copolymer segments of polydialkylsiloxane, wherein the alkyl groups are preferably methyl and the end groups are preferably -OH; the most preferred polydialkylsiloxane being dimethiconol.

The weight average molecular weight of the polyorganosiloxanes of the present invention is preferably greater than 700,000 Daltons, more preferably greater than 800,000 Daltons, also more preferably greater than 900,000 Daltons, even more preferably greater than 950,000 Daltons, most preferably greater than 1,000,000 Daltons, but generally less than 1,400,000 Daltons, preferably less 1200000 Yes, when determined by gel permeation chromatography. For the avoidance of doubt, the unit Dalton (Da) is also known as the universal atomic mass unit (amu).

To characterize organopolysiloxane/hydrocarbon mixtures, an MCR 501 controlled shear rheometer (Anton Paar, Austria) equipped with plane-parallel plates was used. Tests were performed at 20 °C with a gap size of 0.5 mm over a frequency range of 100 Hz to 0.1 Hz and a fixed strain of 0.5%. Excess samples at the edge of the plate were trimmed off. After loading, the samples were left for 60 seconds to allow stress to relax. Data were collected using a logarithmic scale with 10 points per decade. The storage modulus of the dispersed phase containing nonlinear organopolysiloxane and hydrocarbon oil is sensitive to the mass ratio of organopolysiloxane to oil and for the above mass ratios at 10 Hz can be in the range from 1×102 Pa to 2×103 Pa.

The rheological properties of polyorganosiloxane were also characterized after evaporation of hydrocarbons. For these studies, mass was monitored as a function of time during the evaporation of hydrocarbons. Once the mass indicated that no hydrocarbons remained, the organopolysiloxane sample was characterized as described above.

Preferably, the nonlinear organopolysiloxane has a storage modulus, determined at 10 Hz, in the range of 2×103 Pa to 3×104 Pa, preferably 8×103 Pa to 2×104 Pa, more preferably 1×104 Pa to 1.6× 104 Pa.

References WO2015/122989 and US2012/022210, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference, describe methods for preparing a branched organopolysiloxane and an aqueous organopolysiloxane emulsion according to the present invention.

Without being bound by any theory, it is believed that at the molecular level, the polycondensation reaction between a linear precursor molecule containing an average of two functional groups and branching agents containing more than two reactive groups per molecule will result in the formation of multiple classes of topological structure. For this reason, in WO2015/122989 and US2012/022210, for determining the product of such reactions, the polyorganosiloxane of the present invention is described as a non-linear organopolysiloxane. The product of such reactions may contain more than one of the classes of polymer topological structure well known in the art. Such structures include, for example, a branched structure.

The nonlinear organopolysiloxane according to the present invention is a branched organopolysiloxane.

Suitable hydrocarbon oils in the context of the present invention include saturated, non-polar, straight-chain and branched-chain aliphatic or alicyclic hydrocarbons containing from about 10 to about 50 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred hydrocarbon oils in the context of the present invention are light mineral oil and isohexadecane.

Mineral oils are clear, oily liquids obtained from petroleum oil from which the waxes have been removed and the more volatile fractions removed by distillation. The fraction that distills at temperatures between 250 °C and 300 °C is called mineral oil and consists of a mixture of hydrocarbons in which the number of carbon atoms per hydrocarbon molecule is usually between C10 and C40.

Mineral oil can be characterized in terms of its viscosity, with light mineral oil being less viscous than heavy mineral oil. A suitable light mineral oil typically has a kinematic viscosity of 3.9x10-6 to 5.0x10-6 m²/s (3.9 to 5.0 cSt) at 40 °C and a specific gravity of 0.810 to 0.830 at 25 °C. Such substances are commercially available under the trade name Lytol™.

Isohexadecane, such as isohexadecane sold under the trade name Permethyl 101A, for example, available from Presperse Inc., New Jersey, USA, is a branched hydrocarbon with the molecular formula C16H34 suitable for use in the present invention. It is a colorless liquid with a boiling point of approximately 240 °C.

For the development of the present invention, it is important that in the dispersed phase both the nonlinear organopolysiloxane and the hydrocarbon oil are present in the same droplet and are not a mixture of two different emulsions.

In a preferred embodiment, the aqueous emulsion for use according to the present invention comprises an aqueous dispersion phase containing a mixture of a nonionic surfactant, such as a polyethylene glycol alkyl ether, for example, PEG-7 propylheptyl ether, and a cationic surfactant, such as cetyltrimethylammonium chloride.

The total amount of surfactant used will vary depending on the specific surfactant selected and the target emulsion composition, but typically ranges from 0.84 to 2.51% by weight of the aqueous emulsion. The internal dispersed phase containing the organopolysiloxane and hydrocarbon in the aqueous emulsion may constitute from 50% to 73% by weight of the emulsion.

Other variations of surfactants commonly used in silicone emulsification may also be applied to the internal dispersed phase components of the present invention described above without adversely affecting the effectiveness as long as the effectiveness is determined by the action of the precipitated internal phase on the hair. For example, the use of only a cationic emulsifying surfactant without any non-ionic emulsifying surfactant may also be considered.

The percentage by weight of the conditioning composition represented by the internal dispersed phase of the emulsion may range from 0.05 to 3.5%, preferably from 0.1 to 3%, more preferably from 0.2 to 2.75% and even more preferably from 0.5 to 2.5%.

One of the characteristics of an emulsion is the particle size. It can be determined, for example, by laser diffraction particle size analysis methods, which are well documented in the art. There are several parameters that can be used to characterize the particle size of an emulsion. For example, the parameter Dv(50) represents the upper limit of the range of particle diameters that contains 50% of the mass of the total dispersed material.

The aqueous emulsion according to the present invention has a particle size, expressed by Dv(50) values, ranging from at least 5 μm to less than 12 μm, more preferably at least 6 μm or even at least 7 μm, but generally not more 11 µm, preferably no more than 10 µm, more preferably no more than 8 µm, even more preferably no more than 7 µm, also more preferably no more than 6 µm.

The aqueous emulsion according to the present invention has a particle size Dv(50) of 5 μm to less than 12 μm, preferably a Dv(50) of 7 μm to less than 12 μm.

As particle size increases, the potential for a coating sensation that consumers disapprove of becomes more significant. For this reason, it is preferable to limit the particle size Dv(50) to less than 12 μm.

The particle size of the emulsion can be controlled by methods well known to those skilled in the art. The emulsions of the present invention and comparative emulsions were characterized using laser diffraction particle size analysis, more specifically using a Mastersizer 2000 particle size analyzer from Malvern Instruments equipped with a Hydro 2000SM dispersion module (Malvern Instruments, UK).

Product Form and Optional Ingredients

The hair care compositions of the present invention are primarily intended for topical application to human hair and/or scalp to improve hair properties such as hair lubrication, smoothness, softness, ease of styling, straightening, volume (bodification), effectiveness in imparting shape and shine.

The hair care compositions of the present invention are typically rinse-off compositions designed to be applied to the hair and then partially removed by rinsing.

A particularly preferred form of the product is as a conditioner to treat the hair (usually after shampooing) followed by a rinse.

Typically, such a composition is applied to the hair (preferably to hair that has been shampooed followed by a rinse with water) and then distributed throughout the hair. Preferably, the composition is then allowed to penetrate the hair for a period of about one to three minutes before being rinsed off the hair with water. Typically, from about 1 g to about 50 g of the composition is applied to the hair or scalp.

Hair care compositions of the present invention typically contain from about 20% to about 95% water, preferably at least 30%, more preferably at least 40%, also more preferably at least 50%, even more preferably at least 60% or even at least 70%, but generally not more than 94%, preferably not more than 93%, more preferably not more than 92%, also more preferably not more than 91%, even more preferably not more than 90% or even no more than 80% by weight based on the total weight. Other organic solvents may also be present, such as lower alkyl alcohols and polyhydric alcohols. Examples of lower alkyl alcohols include C1-C6 monohydric alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin and propanediol. Mixtures of any of the organic solvents described above can also be used.

The hair care compositions of the present invention may also contain other optional ingredients to enhance effectiveness and/or consumer satisfaction. Suitable optional ingredients include, but are not limited to: preservatives, coloring agents, chelating agents, antioxidants, fragrances, antimicrobial agents, anti-dandruff agents, cationic conditioning polymers, styling ingredients, sunscreen agents, proteins and hydrolyzed proteins.

In a second aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a composition in accordance with the present invention for increased deposition of silicone on damaged hair.

Increased deposition of silicone onto the damaged surface of the hair offers the benefit of ensuring that silicone is targeted to areas where silicone is needed without over-covering areas that require less conditioning. Delivery of silicone to undamaged areas may contribute to the appearance of unwanted sensations of heaviness and envelopment in the hair in users of the product.

The following is a further description of the present invention with reference to the following examples. In the examples given, all percentages are by weight based on total weight unless otherwise noted.

Examples

Example 1: Effect of the composition according to the present invention on silicone deposition

Hair conditioning compositions were prepared containing the ingredients shown in Table 1 below. Conditioner samples 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 were compositions in accordance with the present invention.

The samples of emulsions 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 shown in Table 1 were aqueous organopolysiloxane emulsions in accordance with the present invention. Emulsion samples 1-5 were branched organopolysiloxane/isohexadecane emulsions with cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, PEG-7 propylheptyl ether and water (from Dow Corning), containing particles of various sizes. The aqueous emulsion corresponding to emulsion sample 1 had a particle size Dv(50) of 1.5 μm. The aqueous emulsion corresponding to emulsion sample 2 had a particle size Dv(50) of 2.6 μm. The aqueous emulsion corresponding to emulsion sample 3 had a particle size Dv(50) of 4.2 μm. The aqueous emulsion corresponding to emulsion sample 4 had a particle size Dv(50) of 7.16 μm. The aqueous emulsion corresponding to emulsion sample 5 had a particle size Dv(50) of 11.03 μm.

In samples of emulsions 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, the mass ratio of branched polyorganosiloxane to hydrocarbon oil (isohexadecane) was 60:40.

In order to evaluate the effectiveness of these products on hair, hair was first washed with 14% sodium lauryl ether sulfate (1EO) solution to remove any precipitated substances previously present. The settling efficiency obtained for each of the sample formulations shown in Table 1 was compared with the settling efficiency obtained for comparative conditioner A.

Comparative conditioner A contained a comparative emulsion containing an aqueous emulsion of a 9:1 mixture of dimethicone and amodimethicone, with a particle size Dv(50) of approximately ~3 μm (from Dow Corning).

Comparative conditioner B contained, according to WO 2016/041748, a dimethicone/mineral oil emulsion with cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and water with a Dv(50) particle size of 2.5 μm (from Dow Corning).

Table 1 Ingredient Sample
air conditioner 1
% w/w Conditioner sample 2
% w/w Conditioner sample 3
% w/w Conditioner sample 4
% w/w Conditioner sample 5
% w/w Comparative air conditioner A Comparative air conditioner B Name according to the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) % active substance % w/w % w/w Water 100 89,885 89,885 89,885 89,885 89,885 89,395 89,395 Lactic acid 88 0.325 0.325 0.325 0.325 0.325 0.325 0.325 Cetearyl alcohol 100 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 C16-C18, behentrimonium chloride and dipropylene glycol 70 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Stearamidopropyldimethylamine 100 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Disodium salt EDTA 100 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Potassium chloride 100 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Emulsion sample 1 65 3.08 0 0 0 0 0 0 Emulsion sample 2 65 0 3.08 0 0 0 0 0 Emulsion sample 3 65 0 0 3.08 0 0 0 0 Emulsion sample 4 65 0 0 0 3.08 0 0 0 Emulsion sample 5 65 0 0 0 0 3.08 0 0 Comparative emulsion 70 0 0 0 0 0 3.57 0 Emulsion according to WO 2016/041748 70 0 0 0 0 0 0 3.57 Methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone 1.50 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 Flavoring 100 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

Conducting an assessment

Conditioning Composition Samples 1-5 and Comparative Sample A were evaluated as follows:

For all studies described herein, a standardized, consumer-appropriate application protocol was used in which the product was dosed onto the hair for a fixed time, then rinsed off for a fixed time, and the hair was left to dry. To quantify the deposition of silicone from the product onto the hair, 2.5 g hair strands were first washed with a 14% sodium lauryl ether sulfate (1EO) solution in water. 0.1 g of solution per gram of hair was applied from a syringe and rubbed into damp hair by hand for 30 seconds, then rinsed off under tap water at a flow rate of 4 liters per minute. This process was repeated one more time and then a sample conditioner in accordance with the present invention or a comparative conditioner was applied. 0.2 g of conditioner per gram of hair was applied from a syringe to freshly washed and rinsed hair and rubbed in for one minute and then rinsed out for one minute. After treatment, the strands were left to dry at 50°C for one to two hours and silicone deposition was then determined.

Result

Silicone deposition was quantified by X-ray fluorescence, which detects elemental silicon contained in the conditioning active.

Data were collected as parts per million (ppm) of silicone per hair mass. Deposition efficiency can be calculated based on the ppm value that would be obtained if all of the applied silicone remained on the hair after rinsing out the conditioning product. A deposition efficiency of 1 would indicate that all the silicone in the formulation was deposited on the surface of the hair and remained there even after rinsing. Sedimentation efficiency data for each conditioning formulation is presented in Table 2 for both natural and bleached hair types. The bleached hair was used as a sample of hair that was damaged due to chemical modification and thus required a greater degree of conditioning.

table 2 Example Particle size Dv (50) of aqueous emulsion (µm) Effectiveness of silicone deposition on natural hair 95% Confidence Interval Limits for Deposition (Natural Hair) Efficiency of silicone deposition on bleached hair 95% confidence limits for deposition (bleached hair) Conditioner sample 1 1.53 0.2 0.05 0.11 0.02 Conditioner sample 2 2.61 0.22 0.07 0.19 0.03 Conditioner sample 3 4.2 0.32 0.13 0.2 0.04 Conditioner sample 4 7.16 0.4 0.12 0.28 0.06 Conditioner sample 5 11.03 0.71 0.12 0.35 0.07 Comparative conditioner A ~3 0.2 0.03 0.04 0.03

The above data demonstrates that the silicone deposition efficiency on natural hair was approximately the same as that of Comparative Conditioner A when comparing formulation samples having approximately the same particle size (conditioner sample 2) as Comparative Conditioner A. However, the data in Table 2 also demonstrates that the silicone deposition efficiency on bleached hair was significantly higher than that of Comparative Conditioner A when comparing formulation samples having the same particle size (conditioner sample 2) as Comparative Conditioner A and, in addition, than The larger the size of the emulsion particles in the composition sample, the higher the efficiency of deposition on bleached hair.

Silicone from hair conditioner tends to be more difficult to deposit onto bleached hair than onto natural hair, which typically results in lower deposition efficiency on bleached hair compared to natural hair.

The best results in terms of silicone deposition efficiency on bleached hair can be observed for aqueous emulsion particle sizes Dv(50) ranging from 5 to less than 12 µm.

Example 2:

Samples of conditioner compositions 2 and 5 and comparative conditioner B were evaluated as follows:

Study in the salon with application of products to half the head

For the study, 36 participants with dry or dry and damaged hair types of different lengths and textures were recruited in a specialized salon. According to the protocol, the half-scalp salon study used deep cleansing shampoo applied to both sides of each participant's head and then compared each formulation to a control. The compositions have been rated by competent experts according to the attributes detailed in Table 3 below. Some signs were considered positive and others were considered negative. Smoothness is a positive sign, while frizziness and dryness are negative signs. In all cases where differences were observed, Sample 5 rated higher than Sample 2 and Comparative Conditioner B in terms of smoothness (a positive attribute) and lower than Sample 2 and Comparative Conditioner B in terms of frizz and dryness ( negative signs).

Table 3 Use stage Sign Comparative air conditioner B Sample 2 Sample 5 Dry stage Smoothness 17/15 11/25 6/30 Dry stage Tendency to frizz 14/21 20/16 26/10 Dry stage Dryness 18/18 23/13 30/6

x in x/y denotes the score for the control product and y in x/y denotes the score for the test product

the control product was a conditioner containing standard silicone such as Comparative Conditioner A.

Claims (14)

1. A hair care composition containing a conditioning gel phase together with an aqueous emulsion of a branched polyorganosiloxane containing monomer units of silsesquioxane having the formula (RSiO _3/2 ) _n , where n = 1, R represents an alkyl group, and copolymer segments of polydialkylsiloxane; wherein the conditioning gel phase is derived from a cationic surfactant, a fatty compound with a melting point of 25 °C or higher, and an aqueous carrier; and the aqueous emulsion of a branched organopolysiloxane contains an aqueous dispersion phase containing water and a cationic surfactant or a mixture of nonionic and cationic surfactants, and a disperse phase containing a branched polyorganosiloxane and a hydrocarbon oil, wherein said aqueous emulsion has a particle size of Dv(50) from 5 to less than 12 microns. 2. The hair care composition according to claim 1, wherein R represents methyl, ethyl or propyl. 3. A hair care composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said aqueous emulsion has a particle size Dv(50) of 7 to less than 12 μm. 4. The hair care composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of branched organopolysiloxane to hydrocarbon oil is from 40:60 to 65:35. 5. The hair care composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of branched organopolysiloxane to hydrocarbon oil is from 50:50 to 60:40. 6. The hair care composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of branched polyorganosiloxane to hydrocarbon oil is 60:40. 7. The hair care composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said branched organopolysiloxane has a storage modulus of from 2x10 ³ Pa to 3x10 ⁴ Pa when determined at 10 Hz using an MCR 501 controlled shear rheometer (Anton Paar, Austria ), equipped with plane-parallel plates, which is carried out at 20 °C with a gap size of 0.5 mm within the frequency range from 100 Hz to 0.1 Hz and at a fixed strain of 0.5%. 8. The hair care composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said hydrocarbon oil is isohexadecane or mineral oil. 9. The hair care composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said cationic surfactant used to form the conditioning gel phase is selected from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (CTAC), behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (BTAC), protonated stearamidopropyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof. 10. The hair care composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said fatty compound used to produce the conditioning gel phase is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. 11. Application of the composition according to claims. 1-10 for increased silicone deposition onto damaged hair.