RU2786433C1 - Cosmetic product for skin regeneration - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: cosmetic product for skin regeneration contains Aegopodium hydrolat as an additive for a regenerative effect on the skin, added to the mentioned cosmetic product by mixing with the cosmetic product in a volume from 10 to 20 percent of a volume of the cosmetic product. An additive for a cosmetic product is also disclosed.

EFFECT: group of inventions provides an increase in a regenerative effect of cosmetic procedures, using cosmetic products for skin care.

2 cl, 8 tbl, 1 ex

Description

The invention relates to cosmetology, namely to the use of goutweed (Aegopódium podagrária) hydrolate for cosmetics [A61K 8/00, A61K 36/23, A61Q 19/00, B01D 1/00, B01D 5/00].

Known from the prior art is AEGOPODIUM PODAGRARIA HYDROLATE (LEAVES) [https://aromatnauki.ru/products/gidrolataegopodium, posted date: 10/23/2021], obtained by water-steam distillation from young leaves of common goutweed. According to the source, it has antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, antioxidant effects, adaptogen, strengthens capillaries, increases vascular elasticity, prevents blood clots, can be used for rosacea, relieves itching and swelling in allergies, is used for skin damage: burns, wounds , fungal infections, diathesis, acne, erysipelas, atopic dermatitis, various inflammatory processes, helps to increase stress resistance, helps to cope with neuroses and depression.

The closest in technical essence is the external use of goutweed hydrolat (Aegopodium podagraria, Apiaceae family) for application to the skin [https://fitoatlant.ru/gidrolat-snyiti/], based on anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, diuretic, wound healing, antifungal effects , known by spraying as a tonic on any type of skin, for softening and rejuvenating it, as a face mask (for example, hibiscus facial radiance mask), spray on swollen skin, insect bites, abrasions, itchy wounds, on traumatized skin after shaving, preparing compresses for boils, bruises, painful joints, diathesis, burns, fungal infections, adding to hair masks to eliminate dandruff.

The disadvantage of the analogue and the prototype is their low regenerating properties, due to their low ability to be evenly distributed on the skin due to the liquid state of the gout, and if there are problems on the skin, it is necessary that the product be in this problem area for some time to enhance its effect on the skin, which is difficult when the agent is liquid. At the same time, the use of gout hydrolat in its pure form does not provide the desired cosmetic effect, as from the use of cosmetic products aimed at affecting the skin.

The objective of the invention is to eliminate the shortcomings of the prototype.

The technical result of the invention is to increase the regenerative effect of cosmetic procedures using cosmetic products for skin care.

Said technical result is achieved through the use of goutweed hydrolate as an additive for skin care cosmetics to obtain a regenerating effect on the skin, added to the mentioned cosmetic by mixing with the cosmetic in a volume of 10 to 20 percent of the volume of the cosmetic.

An additive for a cosmetic product is goutweed hydrolate in a volume of 10 to 20 percent of the volume of a cosmetic product, clary sage essential oil and peppermint essential oil, while clary sage and peppermint oils are added to the cosmetic product by mixing in a volume of 0.16 to 0 .32 percent of the volume of the cosmetic product.

Implementation of the invention.

Gout, or schnitka (lat. Aegopodium), common gout (lat. Aegopódium podagrária) is a genus of perennial herbaceous plants of the Umbelliferae family. Leaves on long petioles, twice trifoliate or trifoliate. Leaflets - oblong-ovate, serrate at the edges. Inflorescences - umbrellas and umbrellas, without leaflets and wrappers. The flowers are small, white, rarely pink. Stamens five. The fruits are laterally compressed, with thin filiform ribs.

The type species of gout is common in Europe (from Norway in the north to Corsica in the south and from the Netherlands in the west to the Ural Mountains in the east), in the Transcaucasus, and in Asia (Turkey, Central Asia). In Russia - an ordinary plant in the European part and the North Caucasus, as well as in Eastern and Western Siberia.

Snot grows well only on fertile soils rich in humus and mineral nutrients (eutrophic plant). In sour spruce forests on rich fresh loams and sandy loams, it grows together with sour, sorrel, ferns.

Under the canopy of the forest in early spring, before the leaves of the tree layer open, gout is physiologically photophilous, and in summer, with a closed canopy, it is shade-tolerant. Often found as a weed in gardens, parks and vegetable gardens.

The young leaves are edible. They are added to soups, cabbage soup, okroshka, salads, borscht instead of cabbage, and also pickled, salted, fermented, dried and used to give dishes a peculiar flavor. Snyt is a honey plant. In medicine, gout has been used to treat gout.

The main beneficial properties of goutweed are that it has an immunostimulating, tonic and wound-healing effect, improves hematopoiesis, is a diuretic and improves digestion. Gout is used in the treatment of skin diseases, diathesis and erysipelas, as well as in the treatment of inflammation of skeletal muscles - myositis.

The beneficial and harmful properties of gout herb are well known in folk medicine. Gout is added to decoctions, infusions, dressings, ointments, face masks, drunk as a medicinal tea.

Useful and nutritional properties of goutweed are due to its chemical composition, which is as close as possible to the formula of human blood.

The amount of vitamin C in 100 g of leaves is 65-100 mg. The content of ascorbic acid increases by autumn. The mineral composition of goutweed leaves is represented by a number of micro and macro elements. In addition to the content of Ca, Fe, Si, P, Mg, Al, Mo, V, Cu, Ga, B, Ti, Zn, it also contains from 3.8 to 8.3 K.

Table. Composition of common sleepweed. Group Name Properties cyclitols glucinol scylite lectins coumarins xanthotoxin bergapten umbelliferon steroids β-sitosterol choline choline - a nitrogen-containing compound (vitamin B4) carbohydrates fructose glucose umbelliferosis vitamins carotene ascorbic acid amino acids arginine threonine methionine lysine histidine leucine threonine valine flavonoids kaempferol quercetin glycosites essential oils limonene β-phelandrene sabinene α-, β-pinenes myrcene α-geraniol α-thuyene γ-terpinene terpinolene camphor citronellol linalool acetate isoborneol acetate terpineol acetate ionone minerals Copper (Cu) stimulates the production of pituitary hormones;
stimulates protein and carbohydrate metabolism;
prevents the penetration of microbes into the body;
participates in the process of hematopoiesis Calcium (Ca) regulates the acid-base balance in the body;
participates in the construction of bone tissue, tooth enamel, dentin;
has anti-allergic, anti-inflammatory, desensitizing effect;
participates in the formation of learning skills;
improves the processes of neuromuscular work of the body Aluminum (Al) participates in the formation of proteins and peptides;
improves the functioning of the thyroid gland;
participates in the formation of bone and connective tissues;
responsible for the formation of the skin, the regeneration of human body tissues Titanium (Ti) plays an important role in immune processes;
stimulates the formation of red blood cells;
participates in the synthesis of hemoglobin;
responsible for regulating cholesterol levels Silicon (Si) participates in the construction of hormones, amino acids and enzymes;
is responsible for the construction of tissues of hair, nails and human skin;
improves the absorption of nutrients;
regulates blood pressure;
regulates the functioning of the brain and nervous system;
participates in the construction of the walls of blood vessels, connective tissues;
regulates the coordination of movements;
stimulates metabolic processes in the body;
plays an important role in immune processes Magnesium (Mg) regulates the functioning of the human nervous system;
participates in the process of digestion;
participates in immune processes in the body;
improves calcium absorption Bor (B) stimulates metabolic processes in the body;
participates in the process of building muscles and bones;
responsible for the work of the central nervous system;
stimulates the thyroid gland and gonads;
involved in the production of hormones Molybdenum (Mo) participates in hematopoiesis;
activates the enzymes necessary for the growth of body tissues;
protects cells from exposure to toxic substances;
is an antioxidant Vanadium (V) necessary to maintain normal cholesterol levels;
responsible for the regulation of blood glucose levels;
participates in the work of the central nervous system;
has a hypotensive effect;
is an antioxidant Gallium (Ga) has an antibacterial function;
participates in the processes of blood circulation;
prevents the formation of blood clots in the vessels Zinc (Zn) regulates the functioning of the brain and nervous system;
participates in carbohydrate and fat metabolism in the body;
participates in the formation of body tissues;
improves immunity Iron (Fe) responsible for the functioning of the human digestive system;
is an important component of hemoglobin;
participates in the regulation of body temperature;
plays an important role in immune processes Phosphorus (P) participates in the processes of building and regenerating body tissues;
participates in the synthesis of hormones;
necessary to maintain acid-base balance;
stimulates the brain and nervous system;
promotes the absorption of vitamins and minerals Potassium (K) provides the most important processes in the body and the connection of the body with the external environment. With a lack of this trace element, the skin often becomes dry, the hair is dull and weakened. chlorophyll saturated acids palmitic stearic unsaturated fatty acids oleic linoleic arachidonic organic acids Apple acid lemon acid phenolcarboxylic acids chlorogenic coffee polyacetylene compounds falcarinolone falcarinone falcarinol falcarindiol 1,8-diyne-4,6-diol-3.10, heptadecadiene-1,5-diyne-4,6-diol-3.10 cis-heptadecadiene cis-acetoxyheptadecadien-1,8-diin-4,6-ol-3 trans-10-cetoxyheptadecadien-1,9-diyne-4,6-ol-3-one-8 (2-cis, 9-cis) - heptadecadien-2,9diin-4,6-ol higher aliphatic carbohydrates pentadecane

The essence of the invention lies in the use of goutweed hydrolate as a substance for skin-regenerating cosmetic products for external use (gel, cream, milk, scrub, solution, shampoo, balm, etc.) as an additive to these products in an amount of 10 to 20, predominantly 15% by volume of the cosmetic product, providing an increase in the effect of the mentioned products for cleansing, protecting the skin from the adverse effects of environmental factors and maintaining it in good condition. When gout hydrolate is added to a cosmetic product in less than 10 percent of the volume of the cosmetic product, the regenerating effect of the resulting cosmetic product will be insignificant, and when gout hydrolate is added to more than 20 percent of the volume of the cosmetic product, the absorbent and holding capacity of the cosmetic product decreases due to a decrease in the density of the cosmetic product .

Hydrolate - from hydro + le lait (Fr. milk) - a secondary distillate, fragrant (florentine) water, formed during the steam distillation of plant (usually essential oil) raw materials. The hydrolat consists of distilled water and components that are carried away from the plant material by steam during steam or water distillation. Insoluble (or slightly soluble) components are decanted as stearoptens or essential oils, or partially used to saturate hydrolates by infusion or fine mixture formation.

The hydrosol is a liquid, colorless or slightly colored, transparent or slightly opalescent, with a pH of 3.0 to 6.2. In the first 3-4 weeks after receiving the hydrolat "ripens". At this time, the smell and transparency may change. The hydrolat gains its "strength" within a few months, and then its organoleptic properties are stable.

Hydrolate allows you to save the beneficial properties of the plant from which it is obtained, and has the same effect as a similar essential oil. But at the same time, it is absolutely safe for the skin and suitable for use in its pure form, while essential oils should not be applied to the skin due to the risk of irritation or burns. The water base of the hydrolat provides rapid penetration into the layers of the epidermis, while being combined with other cosmetic or medical products and enhancing their penetration.

Due to the content of falcarinol and falcarindiol in goutweed, which provide antifungal and antibacterial activity, it has emollient properties.

The regenerative properties of goutweed are due to the content in the lipophilic fraction obtained from the leaves of goutweed by ordinary steam or water distillation (hydrolat) of chlorophylls and carotenoids, which exhibit a pronounced antioxidant and antimicrobial effect, which promotes the regeneration of the skin, unsaturated fatty acids, which have metabolic effects, and potassium, which provides skin protection from the effects of the external environment due to the maintenance of potassium in the cells and intercellular space when it is applied to the surface of the skin. With a lack of potassium, the skin becomes dry, the hair becomes dull and weakened, which reduces the regenerating effect when using cosmetics to restore the skin and keep it healthy.

When using goutweed hydrolat, the only contraindication can only be individual intolerance.

For a stronger expression of the regenerating properties of cosmetic products, in addition to goutweed hydrolate, cosmetic additives such as clary sage essential oil and / or peppermint essential oil are added to them from 0.16 to 0.32, mainly 0.24 volume percent of the volume of the cosmetic or 4-8 drops per 50 mg of cosmetic. Such a volume of essential oils added together with goutweed hydrolate to a cosmetic product is due to the fact that essential oils require careful handling. In particular, you can not apply essential oil to the skin in its pure form - it must first be diluted with base oil. After contact with oil, clean the skin immediately. In the case of applying essential oil in its pure form, burns and allergic reactions are possible, this is the reason for the upper limit of the volume of the oil. With a decrease in the volume of added oils less than 0.16%, the effect of the use of these oils in a cosmetic product is reduced.

Clary sage (lat. Salvia sclarea) is a shrub, a species of the genus Sage (Salvia) of the Lamiaceae family. The aerial part of the plant contains essential oil (clary sage oil), its yield from inflorescences is 0.1-0.3% (dry weight). The essential oil is a colorless or slightly yellowish liquid with a very peculiar pleasant odor reminiscent of amber, orange and bergamot. The main component of the essential oil are esters (50-77%), among which the leading place is occupied by linalyl acetate. In addition, the oil contains linalool, linalylfornisate, α- and β-pinene, camphene, myrcene, limonene, β-ocimene, n-cymol, alloocimene, free organic acids - formic, acetic, etc.; Sesquiterpene, di- and triterpene hydrocarbons have also been found.

The fruits contain up to 31% (by absolutely dry weight) of fast-drying fatty oil, the main component of which is linoleic acid; the quality of the oil is close to tung oil. The roots contain coumarins. The inflorescences and leaves contain aromatic resins, organic acids (formic, acetic), saponins, flavonoids. The plant has antibacterial properties, contains phytoncides. Coumarins from the roots have antitumor activity. The aerial part rich in essential oil during the flowering period is used in medicine for baths and applications for polyarthritis, osteomyelitis, deforming arthrosis, and trophic ulcers. The raw material remaining after extraction of the oil is used for therapeutic antirheumatic baths.

Clinical trials have shown the effectiveness of an ointment containing 5-20% clary sage extracts in the treatment of psoriasis.

Mint (lat. Méntha) is a genus of plants of the Lamiaceae family. All types are strongly aromatic, most of them contain a lot of menthol. Fresh mint leaves and essential oil are shown in the fight against age-related changes, these products improve complexion, activate blood circulation.

The beneficial properties of mint are due to its rich composition:

ascorbic acid - increases skin elasticity, gives it smoothness and freshness, helps to get rid of dark circles under the eyes;

tannins - enhance the healing of the skin, help to cope with acne, and also improve the absorption of other components of the product;

flavonoids - activate cell renewal, intensively moisturize;

carotene - makes the skin supple, tones, reduces signs of aging;

resinous substances - heal microcracks, small wounds;

glucose - helps cleanse pores, eliminate impurities.

Most often, mint is recommended to be used to tidy up problematic, oily and combination skin. Grass effectively dries, helps to normalize the sebaceous glands. You can use mint masks for loss of skin tone, pigmentation, acne.

To confirm the regenerating properties of skin care cosmetics created by the author, sold in the form of a gel, cream, milk, scrub, lotion, shampoo, hair balm with the addition of goutweed hydrolat in the amount of 15% by volume and essential oil of clary sage and / or mint in the amount of 2/5 of the volume of goutweed hydrosol, the author of the invention in 2022 tested the mentioned products by focus groups among female volunteers using these cosmetic products. Each of the focus groups included 5 people. 7 focus groups were involved in testing, one for each of the tested cosmetic products, selected from shampoo, hair balm, face gel, hand cream, body milk, face scrub, face lotion.

For testing, in the above-mentioned cosmetic products, selected from one of the products known on the market, containing a base, fillers and cosmetic additives, gout hydrolate was additionally added as cosmetic additives in an amount of 15 vol. % and in equal proportions essential oils of clary sage and mint in a total volume of 0.24 vol. % of the cosmetic product volume, followed by mechanical mixing to obtain a homogeneous composition. All samples were given the name "sample No. 1". The initial samples were given the name "sample No. 2".

Testees within each of the focus groups were assigned serial numbers from 1 to 5.

After preparation, new cosmetics, together with their original samples, before adding cosmetic additives from goutweed hydrolate, essential oils of clary sage and / or mint, were distributed to focus group participants, while the new cosmetics did not differ in packaging from the original ones, and their packages were depersonalized, on which only the names "Sample No. 1" and "Sample No. 2" are applied.

Basic conditions:

daily use for 7 days;

use during the day only once, in the evening, without subsequent going outside, in order to exclude the negative impact of the external environment;

applying permanently on one half of the part of the body for which the cosmetic product is intended, a new cosmetic product with cosmetic additives in the form of goutweed hydrolate and essential oils of clary sage and / or mint (sample No. 1), and on the other half - the original samples of cosmetic products (sample No. 2).

The results of testing according to the preferences of the tested in a comparative form are shown in tables 1-7. If, according to the reviews, the tested person prefers one or another parameter, then “+” is put in the corresponding column for this tool, and “-” for the other, with equal reviews, “+” is put in both columns. After polling all the tested, the number of points for each of the samples is calculated, where "+" - 1 point, "-" - 0 points.

Table 1. Shampoo for hair. Criteria one 2 3 4 five Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 fragrance + - - + + - + + - + ease of application + + + - + - + + + - keeping skin clear + + + + + - - + + + no allergic reactions + + + + + + + + + + effect on problem skin + - + + + + + - + - personal experience of using + - + + + - - + + - Total: Sample #1: 26 points
Sample #2: 18 points

Table 2. Hair balm. Criteria one 2 3 4 five Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 fragrance - + + + + - + + - + ease of application + + + - + - + - + - keeping skin clean + - + + + + + - + + no allergic reactions + + + + + + + + + + effect on problem skin + - + - + + + - + - personal experience of using + - + + + - - + + - Total: Sample #1: 27 points
Sample #2: 16 points

Table 3. Gel for the face. Criteria one 2 3 4 five Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 fragrance + - - + + - + + + + ease of application + - + - + - + - + + keeping skin clean + - + + + + + - + + no allergic reactions + + + + + + + + + + effect on problem skin + - + - + - + - + + personal experience of using + - + + - - + - + + Total: Sample #1: 28 points
Sample #2: 15 points

Table 4. Hand cream. Criteria one 2 3 4 five Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 fragrance + + + + + - + + - + ease of application + - + + + - + - + - keeping skin clean + - + - + + + - + - no allergic reactions + + + + + + + + + + effect on problem skin + - + - + + - - + + personal experience of using + + + - + - + - + - Total: Sample #1: 28 points
Sample #2: 14 points

Table 5. Body milk. Criteria one 2 3 4 five Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 fragrance + + + - + - + - - + ease of application + - + - + - - + + - keeping skin clean + + + - - + + - + + no allergic reactions + + + + + + + + + + effect on problem skin + - + + + + - + + - personal experience of using + - + - + - + - - + Total: Sample #1: 25 points
Sample #2: 15 points

Table 6. Facial scrub. Criteria one 2 3 4 five Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 fragrance + - - + + - + - - + ease of application - + + - + - + + + - keeping skin clean + + - + + + + - + - no allergic reactions + + + + + + + + + + effect on problem skin + - + - + - + - + - personal experience of using + - + - + - + - + - Total: Sample #1: 26 points
Sample #2: 12 points

Table 7. Lotion for the face. Criteria one 2 3 4 five Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 Sample #1 Sample #2 fragrance - + + + + - + + - + ease of application - + + - + - + - + - keeping skin clean + - + + + + + - + + no allergic reactions + + + + + + + + + + effect on problem skin + - + - + - + - + - personal experience of using + - + - + - + - + - Total: Sample #1: 27 points
Sample #2: 13 points

According to the results of the analysis of the test results of the tested, it is noted that sample No. 1 for all types of cosmetics scored more points according to the reviews of the tested than sample No. 2. 90% of the tested people note the pleasant and comfortable sensations of samples No. 1 with added additives of goutweed hydrolate and essential oils clary sage and/or mint. After one week of use, the skin, in their opinion, acquired a silky and healthy appearance, inflammation decreased, the skin condition returned to normal, dryness and oiliness decreased.

In addition, by observing focus groups, it was found that the addition of gout hydrolate in the amount of 15% of the volume of the cosmetic product made it possible to reduce the regeneration of problem areas of the skin from 1 to 2 days, which, taking into account the entire testing time, which was 7 days, which is about 14-28% of the total time. The indicated percentage is a reduction in the time for skin regeneration.

Claims (2)

1. Cosmetic for skin regeneration, containing gout hydrolate as an additive for obtaining a regenerating effect on the skin, added to the said cosmetic by mixing with the cosmetic in a volume of 10 to 20 percent of the volume of the cosmetic. 2. An additive for a cosmetic product according to claim 1, characterized in that it is goutweed hydrolate in a volume of 10 to 20 percent of the volume of the cosmetic product, clary sage essential oil and mint essential oil, while clary sage and mint oils are added to the cosmetic product by mixing in a volume of 0.16 to 0.32 percent of the volume of the cosmetic product.