RU2354350C2 - Makeup preparation - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: chemistry.

SUBSTANCE: invention refers to cosmetics and perfumery, particularly to makeup preparations (masks, skin creams and sprays) with anti-inflammatory (promoting healing of various wounds, cracks and burns) and antiseptic (antibacterial and antifungal) properties. The makeup preparation for skin softening and humidifying and wrinkle smoothing with anti-inflammatory, wound healing, anti-burning and antiseptic (antibacterial and antifungal) actions contains at least one polyprenole with N isoprene links, N=[7.22], polyprenyl phosphate with N isoprene links, labdanum alcohol, boras camphor and formative component.

EFFECT: skin softening and humidifying ensuring wrinkle smoothing.

9 cl, 3 ex, 4 tbl

Description

The invention relates to cosmetics and perfumes, in particular to cosmetics (masks, creams for the skin and sprays) that soften and moisturize the skin, help smooth wrinkles, have anti-burn and antifungal properties.

Means for moisturizing the skin and smoothing wrinkles with anti-burn and antifungal effects are unknown to the authors.

The technical result from the use of the present invention is to create means for moisturizing the skin and smoothing wrinkles with anti-burn and antifungal effects.

The specified technical result is achieved in that the means for moisturizing the skin and smoothing wrinkles with anti-burn and antifungal actions contains at least one polyprenol with N isoprene units, N = [7,22].

The specified technical result is also achieved by the fact that the tool additionally contains at least one polyprenyl phosphate with N isoprene units.

The specified technical result is also achieved by the fact that the tool additionally contains at least one labdanum alcohol.

The specified technical result is also achieved by the fact that the tool further comprises borneol.

The specified technical result is also achieved by the fact that the tool further comprises a forming component.

The specified technical result is also achieved by the fact that isopropyl myristate is used as the forming component.

The specified technical result is also achieved by the fact that the tool additionally contains diatomaceous earth, alginate, calcium sulfate, sodium pyrophosphate (Isagel FM mask).

The specified technical result is also achieved by the fact that the amount of polyprenyl phosphate with N isoprene units is 1-10 weight percent.

The specified technical result is also achieved by the fact that the amount of labdanum alcohol is 5-25 weight percent.

The specified technical result is also achieved by the fact that the amount of borneol is 5-25 mass percent.

The specified technical result is also achieved by the fact that the amount of the forming component is 30-99 mass percent.

The specified technical result is also achieved by the fact that the amount of isopropyl myristate is 8-12 mass percent.

The tool is made as follows. Polyprenols (PP) with the number of isoprene units 7-22, and / or polyprenylphosphates (PPF) with the number of isoprene units 7-22, and / or a mixture are isolated from plant materials (woody greens, the needles of the needles, provitamin concentrate of needles, etc.) labdanoids, manol and cis-abienol (L), and / or borneol (B) in ratios close to their natural content in plant materials: respectively (1-5)%, (0.01-0.4)%, ( 0.5-10.0)%, (0.5-10.0)%, by sequentially performing the following operations:

- water saponification with caustic soda at a temperature of 70-75 ° C,

- dissolution in acetone,

- separation of waxes from the acetone solution by filtration,

- separation of labdanic alcohols with acetonitrile at a temperature of 40-50 ° C,

- alcohol saponification with sodium hydroxide in ethanol and petroleum ether,

- obtaining a petroleum extract,

- obtaining a primary acetone extract for column chromatography,

- column chromatography of the extract on silica gel with sequential selection of fractions containing polyprenols, labdanoids and borneol.

The polyprenols fraction is subjected to additional chromatographic purification on silica gel, and then a portion of the purified polyprenols is phosphorylated. The fractions obtained as a result of purification and chemical modification are mixed in the above ratios and a form-forming component (filler) is added to the mixture.

The following ingredients are used as forming components:

- spray - isopropyl myristate,

- mask - diatomaceous earth, alginate, calcium sulfate, sodium pyrophosphate (Isagel FM mask), isopropyl myristate,

- cream - water, glycerin, Caesalpina Spinosa Gum, Entermorfha Compressa Extract - (Homeostatine); Hypericum Perforatum Extract (Hypericum extract), sunflower seed oil (Hypericum oil); tocopherol acetate (30% oil solution); sodium acrylate copolymer, hydrogenated polyisobutene, phospholipids, polyglyceryl-10-stearate, sunflower seed oil (Heliogel emulsifier); phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerol (preservative Euxyl PE9010).

The properties of a cosmetic product (hereinafter referred to as the Product) can be illustrated by the following examples.

Example 1. Anti-burn effect.

In rats weighing 250-300 g, 6 animals in the group are trimmed back section of 4 × 4 cm ² . Then, animals under barbamil anesthesia cause a thermal burn. To do this, use a device with an installed temperature scale and an electric soldering iron, at the end of which a metal plate with a size of 2.5 × 2.5 cm ² is attached. The exposure time of a contact plate heated to 200 ° C is 10 seconds. Animals develop a burn that corresponds to the IIIA degree of the clinical classification of burns.

Wounds daily, starting from the second day after the reproduction of the burn, are treated with the Tool and at the same time using a ruler they measure their size (area). For processing, use a cream with the above-mentioned formative components, including PP (4% by mass), PP + PPF (4% + 0.4% by mass), PP + PPF + L (4% + 0.4%) as the active principle. + 5% by mass), PP + PPF + L + B (4% + 0.4% + 5% + 10% by mass). A control used a mixture of formative components, the healing rate of burn injuries was judged by the speed of wound healing, which was calculated by the formula:

V = (S _max -S _experience ) / S _experience ,

S _max - maximum wound area, S _experience - wound area on the day of measurement.

The results were processed statistically using Student's criterion.

The results are shown in the table. Creams based on all these components accelerate wound healing, the maximum effect is caused by a cream based on all 4 components.

Table 1 Groups of animals treated: The size of the wound (mm ² ), M ± m, at different times after application of the wound (day) 2 8 16 21 28 PP 512.0 ± 58.7 338.5 ± 14.1 153.5 ± 10.1 80.1 ± 14.0 0,0 ± 0,0 PP + PPF 560.0 ± 56.5 340.4 ± 30.2 138.5 ± 26.0 86.0 ± 24.0 0,0 ± 0,0 PP + PPF + L 530.0 ± 55.1 310.0 ± 25.5 115.0 ± 14.5 66.0 ± 6.5 0,0 ± 0,0 PP + PPF + L + B 570.0 ± 58.4 256.0 ± 36.5 86.0 ± 8.4 18.0 ± 3.4 0,0 ± 0,0 The control 512.0 ± 33.7 401.1 ± 48.9 218.1 ± 56.6 151.8 ± 18.3 1.6 ± 1.0

Example 2. Antifungal effect.

The research material is a mixture of virulent species of Aspergillius sp., Penicillium sp., As well as Fusarium - Fusarium oxysporum. Mushroom cultures are grown in Petri dishes on a nutrient medium - 20% potato-glucose agar (KGA), to which the Tool is added in different concentrations.

A spore suspension is obtained by washing away the spores of pathogens from the surface of colonies of a two-week culture. The inoculum concentration is determined under a microscope based on the number of conidia in 1 ml.

In a sterile box, 1 ml of inoculum is applied to the surface of the KGA using a micropipette dispenser and spread with a glass spatula. Then the investigated options are incubated in a thermostat at a temperature of + 23 ° C. After 20 hours, the sensitivity of the pathogen spores to the tested drugs is evaluated.

All control variants of plates with pathogens are characterized by 100% spore germination. Adding to the medium Medium in high concentrations (3.3-5.0 mg / ml) completely inhibits the germination of penicillin spores (table 2).

In other options, there is a clear correlation between the concentration of the Agent in the medium and the percentage of germination of the spores of the fungus: with a decrease in the concentration, the number of germinated spores increases.

The tool inhibits the germination of spores of aspergillus fungi more than the germination of penicillas. Germination of spores of F. oxysporum is least inhibited.

table 2 Groups Concentration Tools (mg / ml) 5,0 3.3 1,67 0.33 0.17 0 Penicillium sp. PP 0 0 fifty 85 98 one hundred PP + PPF 0 0 45 85 94 one hundred PP + PPF + L 0 0 21 fifty 84 one hundred PP + PPF + L + B 0 0 fifteen 45 80 one hundred Aspergillius sp. PP 0 0 23 35 60 one hundred PP + PPF 0 0 twenty 33 56 one hundred PP + PPF + L 0 0 10 17 35 one hundred PP + PPF + L + B 0 0 10 fifteen thirty one hundred Fusarium oxysporum PP 6 45 80 90 99 one hundred PP + PPF 6 42 74 80 99 one hundred PP + PPF + L eleven thirty 52 73 95 one hundred PP + PPF + L + B 10 twenty 40 70 90 one hundred

Example 3. Softening and moisturizing the skin, smoothing wrinkles.

The tests are carried out on a group of 20 women aged 22 to 45 years who use face cream prepared on the basis of the product, applying it in the morning and evening, before going to bed for 1 month. Other creams do not apply. In the control used a mixture of forming components. Assessment of consumer properties of the cream is carried out according to a 5-point system:

- 5 points - the result is very good;

- 4 points - the result is good;

- 3 points - the result is normal;

- 2 points - the result is bad;

- 1 point - the result is very poor.

The test results (table 3) show that the tool helps to smooth wrinkles, softens and moisturizes the skin. A particularly pronounced effect was noted when using all 4 main components in the composition of the Means. Table 4 shows that the optimal concentrations for PP, PPF, L and B are in the ranges, respectively (1-5)%, (0.01-0.4)%, (0.5-10.0)%, (0 5-10.0)%.

Table 3 Groups Evaluation of the result (group average, points) Moisturizing effect Wrinkle smoothing Group average (M ± m) PP 3,5 2.1 3.0 ± 0.5 PP + PPF 4.0 3.0 3.7 ± 0.4 PP + PPF + L 4.8 3.9 4.3 ± 0.3 PP + PPF + L + B 4.7 4.1 4,5 ± 0,2 The control 2.9 1,0 2.0 ± 0.7

Table 4 Groups Evaluation of the result: moisturizing effect and smoothing of wrinkles (group average, points ± m) The concentration of the component marked "*", (%) 0 0.01 0.4 0.5 1,0 5,0 10.0 20,0 PP * 1.5 ± 0.7 1.7 ± 0.4 l, 8 ± 0.5 2.0 ± 0.3 2.9 ± 0.2 3.1 ± 0.3 2.5 ± 0.5 2.0 ± 0.5 PP (4%) + PPF * 3.0 ± 0.2 3.2 ± 0.3 3.6 ± 0.4 3.4 ± 0.2 - - - - PP (4%) + PPF (0.4%) + L * 3.6 ± 0.4 3.6 ± 0.3 3.4 ± 0.3 3.8 ± 0.2 4.0 ± 0.4 4.1 ± 0.2 4.4 ± 0.1 3.5 ± 0.2 PP (4%) + PPF (0.4%) + L (10%) + B * 4.3 ± 0.2 4.2 ± 0.3 4.4 ± 0.2 4.7 ± 0.3 4.7 ± 0.3 4.9 ± 0.2 4.6 ± 0.1 4.4 ± 0.4

Claims (9)

1. Means for softening and moisturizing the skin and smoothing wrinkles with anti-inflammatory, wound healing, anti-burn and antiseptic (antibacterial and antifungal) actions, containing at least one polyprenol with N isoprene units, N = [7,22] and additionally or at least one polyprenyl phosphate with N isoprene units, or at least one labdanum alcohol, or borneol. 2. The tool according to claim 1, characterized in that it further comprises a forming component. 3. The tool according to claim 2, characterized in that isopropyl myristate is used as the forming component. 4. The tool according to claim 3, characterized in that it further comprises diatomaceous earth, alginate, calcium sulfate, sodium pyrophosphate (Isagel FM mask). 5. The tool according to claim 1, characterized in that the amount of polyprenyl phosphate with N isoprene units is 1-10 wt.%. 6. The tool according to claim 1, characterized in that the amount of labdanum alcohol is 5-25 wt.%. 7. The tool according to claim 1, characterized in that the amount of borneol is 5-25 wt.%. 8. The tool according to claim 2, characterized in that the amount of the forming component is 30-99 wt.%. 9. The tool according to claim 4, characterized in that the amount of isopropyl myristate is 8-12 wt.%.