RU2283906C2 - Textured thread with different shrinking capacity and excellent simulation of chamois leather properties and method for manufacturing the same, fabric, circular knit fabric and warp knit fabric from textured thread - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: textile industry.

SUBSTANCE: textured thread has at least one or two kinds of ornamental thread which is two-component composite thread comprising single filaments having linear density of 0.001-0.3 denier after separating or extracting of extractable component, said ornamental threads being wound around core thread, such as thermoplastic complex thread. On the surface of textured thread there are 2-350 loops per meter of length of two-component composite thread, said composite thread having length of at least 1.0 m. Over 95% of said loops are 1.0-2.5 m long. Method involves manufacturing textured thread in pneumatic texturing nozzle with the use of compressed air fed under pressure of 6-16 kgf/cm², providing thermal processing of said thread in hollow heater at temperature of 130-210 C in the state wherein advancing extent is 0-(-8)%; winding thread in the state wherein advancing extent is (-2)-(-12)%.

EFFECT: improved quality and excellent simulation of chamois leather fabric properties of material produced from textured thread.

28 cl, 9 dwg, 2 tbl, 11 ex

Description

The present invention relates to a textured yarn with different shrinkage, having excellent touch properties and appearance characteristic of genuine leather (hereinafter: “suede-like properties”), in the manufacture of which it is possible to selectively achieve the effect of mixing different colors in dyeing (hereinafter : “Achieve melange effect”), and to the method of its manufacture.

Synthetic fibers with very good physical properties have long been used in conjunction with natural fibers as threads for making clothes. But synthetic fibers have certain disadvantages, consisting in their coldness to the touch and lack of softness.

Among the ways to make synthetic fibers feel soft to the touch characteristic of natural fibers is the solution associated with the creation of ultra-thin synthetic fibers, the linear density of which (a single filament) is less than 1.0 denier. Since ultrathin synthetic fibers possess touch properties and functional qualities of a higher order than natural fibers, they are easy to manufacture, easy to process and can be produced as mass products at low cost, the range of their use is becoming wider and wider.

In European patent EP 0352376 a textured yarn with different shrinkage is described having loops A, B, C formed on the surface of 0.15 mm, 0.35 mm and 0.6 mm in length, respectively, as well as a method for producing such a yarn.

Typically, methods for manufacturing ultra-thin synthetic fibers include a direct spinning method and a conjugate method.

In the direct spinning method, because the fiber is directly spun through a die, it is difficult to produce an ultra-thin fiber of a linear density of less than 0.1 denier, and a number of problems arise at the stage of finishing the yarn and weaving.

In contrast, in the conjugated spinning process, a two-component composite yarn is made by co-molding various polymers, for example a composition consisting of a polyester and a polyamide, or a composition consisting of a polyester and a copolymer of a polyester, followed by filaments (hereinafter: “ fibrils ") from the component from which the fiber is formed, is obtained by separating them and separating them from a two-component composite filament under the influence of physical or chemical processing in process after their manufacture. Thus, the method has the advantages that it is easy to produce ultra-thin fiber with a linear density of less than 0.1 denier, and this fiber is easy to pair with other fibers; the processes of finishing the thread go well, and the thread is technological in weaving due to the fact that the fibers are separated and disconnected in the process after their manufacture.

However, in the case of using only a two-component composite yarn made by conjugate spinning to produce fabrics or knitted materials, looseness, bulk, drape and bursting strength are impaired. More specifically, in the case of the conjugate spinning of a fiber from a composition consisting of a polyester and a copolymerized polyester, due to the copolymerized polyester being extracted in the process of weight reduction, space is created between the filaments of the fabric and, consequently, bulk, drape and strength for punching the resulting tissue.

To solve the above problems arising from the separate use of an ultra-thin synthetic fiber or a two-component composite fiber, a method for pairing an ultra-thin synthetic fiber with other fibers has been widely studied.

Known methods for pairing a bicomponent composite fiber with other fibers are described in Korean Patent Laid-open Applications No. 1998-55564 and No. 19999-24801 (see FIG. 2), in which the two-component composite fiber (C) is stretched and subjected to false twisting, and then served in a pneumatic texturing nozzle (14) together with a highly shrinkable thread (D) with the same degree of advance (approximately 1-5%), where they are simply mixed up (pneumatically mixed) using compressed air with a pressure of 1-5 kgf / cm ² .

According to the present invention, such an entangled thread with different shrinkage is hereinafter referred to as “woven thread (CH)” made by simple weaving of the core thread and the decorative thread in a pneumatic texturing nozzle under conditions in which the core and decorative thread are fed with the same degree of advance, component less than 5%, and with a compressed air pressure of less than 5 kgf / cm ² ; and this thread consists of a core and decorative threads, simply woven together at irregular intervals in the longitudinal direction of the thread (as shown in Figure 4). The woven thread (CH) has a structure consisting of a compact part (b) (see FIG. 4) and a volume part (C) formed alternately along the longitudinal direction of the thread.

A woven thread (CH) with different shrinkage made by the method described above has the advantage of having a very high bulk due to the difference in shrinkage of bulk ultrafine fibers and highly shrinkable threads. Woven thread (CH) has a very high strength and drape due to the presence of thick filaments of highly shrinkable threads used as a core thread. However, in the method described above, due to the fact that an unstretched, two-component composite thread, weak in physical properties, is pulled and subjected to false twist, the process stability is significantly reduced under normal conditions of false twist, and it is impossible to obtain a textured thread with very good bulk .

For example, in the case of stretching and false twisting of a bicomponent composite yarn containing a polyester as a component from which the fiber is formed, and a copolymerized polyester as an extractable component, due to the thermal stability of the copolymerized polyester used as an extractable component, decreases, inevitably it is necessary to maintain the temperature at a level below the typical heating temperature, as a result of which a sufficient twist cannot be made (Number of turns per unit length) at a false twisting.

As a result of this, the volume of the fabricated textured yarn with different shrinkage is significantly reduced, i.e. reduced its degree of tortuosity (SI%). The degree of crimp is a distinctive physical property that characterizes the bulkiness and quality of the thread during processing after its manufacture. Due to the lower degree of crimping, the ultrafine fiber does not protrude sufficiently above the surface of the thread, which makes it impossible to obtain high quality fabrics.

Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. H7-126951 describes a method in which a thermoplastic multifilament yarn (core filament) and a low-shrink bicomponent composite filament (ornamental filament) are respectively fed into a pneumatic texturing nozzle with the same degree of advance (approximately 1-5%) and then they are simply weaved (pneumatically mixed up), acting with compressed air at a pressure of 1-5 kgf / cm ² , thus producing a tangled thread (CH) with different shrinkage. However, entangled yarns (SN) made by conventional methods have different lengths simply because of the difference in the heated behavior of the two yarns, as a result of which they cannot have good properties that imitate suede in the manufacture of fabrics or knitted materials, since the dispersion fibrils are reduced, although the volume is expressed. More specifically, entangled filaments (CH) with different shrinkage made by conventional methods have the form in which the fibrils are simply densified at a constant interval along the length of the entangled filament (see FIG. 4).

As a result, concentrated fibrils are not sufficiently dispersed after fabric or knitted fabric is made; the length of the pile in the entangled (concentrated) part is different from the length of the pile in the non-mixed (non-concentrated) part, and the density of the pile is not regular. For this reason, in the manufacture of the fabric or knitted material, the pile is aggregated so that the surface of the fabric or knitted material is partially visible in depth, as shown in FIG. 6, and good imitation of suede cannot be achieved.

Another common, widely used method is a method in which a thermoplastic multifilament yarn (core filament) and not a two-component composite filament, but an ordinary low-shrink multifilament yarn (ornamental filament) are fed into a pneumatic texturing nozzle with varying degrees of advance (approximately 5-50%) and subjected texturing with compressed air with a pressure of 6-16 kgf / cm ² , thus producing a textured thread with different shrinkage.

In the present invention, such a textured yarn with various shrinkage is hereinafter referred to as a “pneumo-textured yarn” (PTN), which is made by texturing with compressed air the core and decorative threads in a pneumatic texturing nozzle, provided that the core and decorative threads are supplied with different degrees of advance of the order of 5- 50% and a pressure impact of compressed air of 6-16 kgf / cm ^2, and in which the decorative thread braided around the core yarn as shown in Figure 3, and the textured surface to the complex formed yarn loop (a) of decorative yarn.

In the pneumo-textured yarn (PTN) made in this way (see FIG. 3), although loops are formed on its surface due to the fact that the decorative thread from which the loops are formed is not a two-component yarn, but is an ultra-thin fiber, density the pile is low and fibril dispersion does not occur in the manufacture of fabric or knitted material, as a result of which good imitation of suede cannot be achieved.

Thus, to overcome the above-mentioned disadvantages that occurred in the known methods, the present invention was created, the technical task of which was to create a textured thread with different shrinkage, which could have excellent touch properties and appearance in the manufacture of fabric or knitted material, thanks to good dispersion of fibrils, high pile density and evenness of the length of the pile after the pushing process.

Another objective of the present invention was the creation of a textured yarn with different shrinkage, which has a very good melange effect when it is dyed.

Another objective of the present invention was the creation of a method of manufacturing a textured yarn with different shrinkage, which has excellent properties that mimic suede.

These technical problems were solved due to the fact that in a textured yarn with different shrinkage and excellent properties that imitate suede, according to the present invention, at least one or two types of decorative yarn, which is a two-component composite yarn containing filaments with a linear density of 0.001 -0.3 denier, after separation or extraction of the extracted component, wrapped around a core thread, which is a thermoplastic complex thread, and on the surface textured iti 2-350 formed loops per meter length of the two-component composite yarn of at least 1.0 mm, wherein more than 95% of the loops of the two-component composite filaments has a length of 1.0-2.5 mm.

Preferably, the degree of shrinkage in the boiling water of the decorative thread is 0-15%.

Preferably, the degree of shrinkage in boiling water of the core thread is 5-50%.

Preferably, 2-50 loops per meter of core length of at least 1.0 mm are formed on the surface of the thread.

Preferably, the linear density of the core thread is 1-8 denier.

Preferably, the decorative thread consists of at least two kinds of fiber-forming components having different dyeing properties.

Preferably, the decorative thread consists of a fiber-forming component of polyester and a component forming a polyamide fiber.

Preferably, the decorative thread consists of a fiber forming component and an extractable component.

Preferably, the fiber forming component and the extractable component in the decorative thread are joined together into long sheath-core fibers or separated.

Preferably, the decorative yarn comprises at least two kinds of bicomponent composite yarns, each of which consists of a fiber forming component and an extractable component, the fiber forming components having different dyeing properties.

Preferably, the decorative yarn comprises a two-component composite yarn consisting of a component forming a polyester fiber and an extractable component, and a two-component composite yarn consisting of a component forming a polyamide fiber and an extractable component.

Preferably, the strength of a textured yarn with different shrinkage is 1.5-3.0 g / denier.

Preferably, the uniformity (U%) of the textured yarn with different shrinkage is 0.5-1.0.

Preferably, the strength of a textured yarn with different shrinkage after separation or extraction of the extracted component is increased by 5-30% compared with the strength before separation or extraction of the extracted component.

Preferably, the number of loops on the surface of a textured yarn with different shrinkage is increased by 8-170 times in comparison with the number of loops before separation or extraction of the extracted component.

These technical problems are also solved due to the fact that at least one or two types of two-component composite yarns are fed into the textured yarn with different shrinkage and excellent suede-like properties by pneumotexturing the decorative yarn and the core yarn as a decorative thread in a pneumo-texturing nozzle with an advance rate of 10-60% using the first feed roller, and the two-component composite thread consists of a component, o fiber-forming, and from the extracted component or consists of at least two kinds of components that form the fiber, and contains filaments with a linear density of 0.001-0.3 denier after separation or extraction of the extracted component; at the same time, the thermoplastic multifilament yarn is fed as a core thread into a pneumo-texturing nozzle with an advance rate of 5-55% using the second feed roller (2), while water is supplied to the water supply device located between the second feed roller and a pneumotexturing nozzle, and then a decorative and core thread, are pneumotextured using compressed air at a pressure of 6-16 kgf / cm ² in a pneumotexturing nozzle, subjected to heat treatment at a temperature of 130-210 ° C in a hollow heater as and in which the degree of advance is 0 - (- 8)%, and wound in a state in which the degree of advance is (-2) - (- 12)%.

Preferably, the elongation of the core thread is 25-45%.

Preferably, the elongation of the decorative thread is 23-45%.

Preferably, the decorative thread consists of at least two kinds of fiber-forming components having different dyeing properties.

Preferably, the decorative thread consists of a component forming a polyester fiber and a component forming a polyamide fiber.

Preferably, the decorative thread consists of a fiber forming component and an extractable component.

Preferably, the decorative thread includes at least two kinds of bicomponent composite yarns, each of which consists of a fiber forming component and an extractable component, the fiber forming components having different dyeing properties.

Preferably, the decorative yarn comprises at least one two-component composite yarn consisting of a polyester fiber forming component and an extractable component, and at least one two-component composite yarn consisting of a polyamide fiber forming component, and extractable component.

Preferably, the peripheral speed of the first feed roller and the second feed roller is 200-600 m / min.

Preferably, the water supplied to the core thread by means of a water supply device is deionized.

In addition, the technical problems of the present invention are solved by creating a fabric woven from an open textured yarn with different shrinkage, by creating a circular knit made from an open textured yarn with different shrinkage, and by creating a warp knitted fabric made from an open textured yarn with various shrinkage.

The present invention will now be described in more detail with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure 1 - diagram of the process of pneumotexturing according to the present invention;

Figure 2 - diagram of a conventional texturing process using false twist;

Figure 3 is a micrograph taken on an electron microscope, textured yarn with different shrinkage according to the present invention;

Figure 4 is a micrograph taken on an electron microscope of a conventional entangled filament with various shrinkage;

5 is a micrograph taken by electron microscope, the surface of the material woven from a textured yarn with different shrinkage according to the present invention;

6 is a micrograph taken on an electron microscope, the surface of a material woven from a conventional tangled thread with different shrinkage;

7 is a micrograph taken by electron microscope, textured yarn with different shrinkage after weight reduction according to the present invention;

Fig. 8 is a diagram of the strength of a textured yarn with different shrinkage according to the present invention versus the feed advance;

Fig.9 is a diagram of the dependence of the strength of a textured yarn with different shrinkage according to the present invention from the degree of weight reduction.

In the present invention, as shown in FIG. 1, at least one or two kinds of bicomponent composite yarn containing filaments with a linear density of 0.001-0.3 denier, after separation or extraction of the extracted component, is used as a decorative thread (A), and the thermoplastic multifilament yarn is used as a core thread (B), wherein the decorative thread and the core thread are respectively fed into the pneumatic texturing nozzle 3 by means of a first feed roller 1 and a second feed roller 2 so that the degree of advancing of the decorative thread with respect to the degree of advancing of the core thread is in the range of 1.2-4.0, and is subjected to pneumotexturing at a compressed air pressure of 6-16 kgf / cm ² , thereby producing a textured thread with different shrinkage.

More preferably, the core thread (B) is wetted by using a device 4 for supplying water before feeding the thread into the pneumotexturing nozzle 3.

The degree of advance when feeding the decorative thread is set as the difference between the peripheral speed of the first feed roller 1 and the peripheral speed of the third feed roller 5, and the degree of advance when feeding the core thread is set as the difference between the peripheral speed of the second feed roller 2 and the peripheral speed of the third feed roller 5.

Textured yarn with various shrinkage, subjected to pneumotexturing in a pneumatic texturing nozzle 3, is subjected to heat treatment in a hollow heater 6 and then wound on a take-up roller 8.

If the linear density of the core thread is less than 1 denier, the drape of fabrics or knitted materials is impaired.

If the linear density of the core thread is significantly higher than 8 denier, then the processability during processing of the thread deteriorates, and unpleasant elasticity increases significantly, which leads to a decrease in manufacturability in the sewing industry and a decrease in the quality of materials. Thus, the linear density of the warp yarns should preferably be 1-8 denier.

In addition, if the shrinkage of the core thread in boiling water is less than 5%, the difference in shrinkage during heat treatment between the core thread and the decorative thread is small, and thus, the volume and compactness are reduced, which, therefore, complicates the preparation of finished materials with excellent touch properties and good appearance. If the shrinkage is much greater than 50%, then wrinkles form on the materials due to excessive shrinkage, and the materials become excessively dense, which thus leads to toughening of the materials and to uneven length of the pile.

Thus, the degree of shrinkage of the core thread in boiling water should preferably be 5-50%. This is because the difference in the degree of shrinkage during heat treatment between the core thread and the decorative thread is related to the volume and compactness of the manufactured materials.

If the elongation of the core thread is less than 25%, then the processability during processing of the thread and the properties of the thread during finishing may deteriorate. If the elongation is substantially greater than 45%, then the drape of the material may be impaired. Thus, the elongation of the core thread should preferably be 25-45%.

For the manufacture of such a core thread, it is preferable to use a method in which a complex polyester polymer is copolymerized with a third component. The third component includes dicarboxylic acids, for example, sebacic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, etc .; glycols, e.g. diethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, etc .; bisphenol A, bisphenol sulfone and the like.

To ensure high shrink properties, the content of the copolymer in the third component should preferably be more than 3 mol%. If the copolymer content is too high, molding processes are degraded and materials become poor due to excessive shrinkage. Thus, most preferably the content of the copolymer is less than 20 mol.%.

The melting temperature when tested on a differential scanning calorimeter varies in accordance with the content of the copolymer in the third component. If the melting point of the highly shrinkable core thread according to the present invention is lower than 220 ° C, then the stability of the manufacturing process may be low due to thermal instability. If the melting temperature is significantly higher than 240 ° C, then the shrinkage during heat treatment can be reduced. Thus, the melting point of the highly shrinkable core thread should more preferably be 220-240 ° C. at a rate of temperature change of 20 ° C./min.

Meanwhile, a two-component composite filament (core filament) consists of a fiber forming component and an extractable component, or it consists of at least two kinds of fiber forming components and having different dyeing properties, and thus the linear density of the filaments after separation or extraction of the extracted component is 0.001-0.3 denier. The fiber forming component and the extractable component can be conjugated to long sheath-core fibers or separated. The bicomponent composite yarn of the present invention includes all conventional composite fibers consisting of a fiber forming component and an extractable component.

In addition, according to the present invention, to achieve a melange effect in the dyeing process, (i) a two-component composite yarn consisting of at least two kinds of fiber-forming components with different dyeing properties is used as a decorative thread, or (ii) at least two types of bicomponent composite yarns at the same time, each consisting of a component forming a fiber and an extractable component, and the components forming a fiber have different dye properties .

More specifically, (i) a two-component composite thread, which consists of a component forming a polyester fiber and a component forming a polyamide fiber, each of which has different dyeing properties, and they are mated, positioned side by side, as a decorative thread. or (ii) at the same time a two-component composite yarn consisting of a component forming a polyester fiber and an extractable component and a two-component composite yarn consisting of a component forming polyamide fiber, and extractable component.

If the linear density of the filament from the component forming this filament, after staining or extracting the extracted component, is substantially greater than 0.3 denier, then a suede-like material with good touch properties cannot be obtained. If the linear density of the filament is less than 0.001 denier, the processability of the thread during processing, light resistance and washing resistance are deteriorated, although the touch properties become very good.

The degree of shrinkage of the two-component composite thread (decorative thread) in boiling water should preferably be less than 15%. If the degree of shrinkage in boiling water is significantly more than 15%, then the difference in the degree of shrinkage of the decorative thread and the core thread becomes smaller and, thus, the bulkiness and compactness of the materials deteriorate, which leads to a decrease in the quality of the materials.

In addition, if the elongation of the decorative thread is less than 23%, then the manufacturability during processing of the thread and the properties of the thread during finishing are deteriorated. If the elongation is significantly greater than 45%, then the strength increases, and thus, the ability to fluff, and the uniformity of the pile is reduced. Thus, the elongation of the decorative thread more preferably should be 23-45%.

The fiber forming component includes a polyester, polybutylene terephthalate, polyamide and the like, and additives, for example carbon black, may be added to it. The extractable component includes a copolymerized polyester that is copolymerized with isophthalate and / or polyalkylene glycol.

As for two-component composite yarns, these include: yarn made by the direct drawing method; an elongated thread made by drawing an unstretched thread, and a thread with a false twist made by false twisting an extended thread. In addition, as a two-component composite thread can be used thread with thickened and thinned sections, made by uneven drawing of an unstretched thread.

Figure 1 shows one example of a device for manufacturing a textured yarn with different shrinkage according to the present invention. Decorative thread (A) and core thread (B) are respectively fed by feed rollers 1 and 2 with different degrees of advance; and the decorative thread (A) and the core thread (B) supplied by the feed rollers are subjected to pneumotexturing in a pneumotexturing nozzle.

The reason that the core and decorative threads are fed by different feed rollers is because the core thread (B) needs to be placed in the center of the textured thread and the decorative thread (A) is forced to “float” over the surface of the textured thread in the form of loops (a), as shown in FIG. 3, due to varying degrees of advance when feeding the decorative thread and the core thread.

At this time, the degree of lead when feeding the decorative thread is set within 10-60%, and the degree of lead when feeding the core thread is set in the range of 5-55%. If the degree of lead when feeding the decorative thread is very small, then loops do not form on the surface of the textured thread, and therefore, as in known technologies, the decorative and core threads simply have the form of a pneumotextured thread, resulting in a decrease in the quality of fabrics or knitted materials when using such threads. If the lead time is too high when feeding the core thread, processability may deteriorate when finishing the thread and when weaving it due to the large number of long loops on the surface of the textured thread.

The degree of advance when feeding the decorative thread and the core thread is determined by the ratio of the peripheral speeds of the first and second feed rollers 1 and 2 to the peripheral speed of the third feed roller 5. Namely, the degree of advance when feeding the decorative and core threads in excess of 0% means that the peripheral speed the first and second feed rollers 1 and 2 are greater than the peripheral speed of the third feed roller 5.

At this time, the peripheral speed of the first and second rollers 1 and 2 is preferably set at about 200-600 m / min. If the peripheral speed significantly exceeds 600 m / min, then the length of time during which the decorative and core threads come into contact with air during pneumotexturing decreases, as a result of which the shape of the loops becomes worse and the properties of the thread deteriorate when finishing due to an increase in tension, caused by high speed wiring. Therefore, the lower the peripheral speed, the better the loops of uniform density are formed on the textured yarn with different shrinkage. But if the peripheral speed is too low, then performance is reduced.

Before filing the core thread into the pneumo-texturing nozzle 3, more specifically, by means of a water supply device 4 located between the second feed roller 2 and the pneumo-texturing nozzle 3, a sufficient amount of water is supplied to the core thread. At this time, it is more preferable to use deionized water, which does not contain a divalent inorganic salt, for example, divalent calcium, divalent magnesium, etc.

At this time, if the ratio of the degrees of advance when feeding the decorative and core threads is less than 1.2, then the core thread, as well as the decorative thread, rises to the surface in the form of loops, thereby impairing the properties of the thread to the touch. If the feed advance ratio is greater than 4.0, then there is a risk that the loops on the surface of the textured yarn may be uneven. Thus, the ratio of the degrees of advance when feeding the decorative thread and the core thread should preferably be about 1.2-4.0.

Meanwhile, the pressure of compressed air, through which the core and decorative threads are subjected to pneumotexturing, is about 6-16 kgf / cm ² . If the compressed air pressure is lower than 6 kgf / cm ² , then loops (a) of the decorative thread, as shown in Fig. 3, do not form on the surface of the textured yarn with different shrinkage, and the decorative and core threads simply have a uniformly textured shape in the longitudinal direction of the textured yarns with different shrinkage, which, thus, leads to a deterioration in the suede-like properties of fabricated fabrics or knitted materials, as shown in Figure 4. If the compressed air pressure is higher than 16 kgf / cm ² , then the decorative and core threads are damaged by compressed air of too high pressure, as a result of which the physical properties of the textured thread with different shrinkage are deteriorated.

If the mass ratio of the two-component composite yarn used as a decorative yarn and the thermoplastic multifilament yarn used as a core yarn is less than 0.8, then the ratio of the core yarn becomes larger, which increases the possibility of lifting the core yarn in the form of pile fibers. If the mass ratio is greater than 6.0, then the total shrinkage force of the core thread decreases, which leads, therefore, to a decrease in bulk. Therefore, the mass ratio of the decorative thread and the core thread is more preferably 0.8-6.0.

In addition, a textured yarn with different shrinkage, subjected to texturing by using compressed air, as described above, is subjected to heat treatment in a hollow heater 6 and then wound. With the above-mentioned heat treatment, the degree of advance in supply is set in the range of 0 - (- 8)%, and the temperature is in the range of 130-210 ° C.

With the above-mentioned heat treatment, the feed advance rate is determined by the ratio of the peripheral speed of the third feed roll 5 to the peripheral speed of the fourth feed roll 7. Namely, the feed advance rate having a negative value of less than 0% during heat treatment means that the peripheral speed the fourth feed roller 7 is greater than the peripheral speed of the third feed roller 5.

The loops on the textured yarn formed as a result of pneumotexturing in the pneumotexturing nozzle 3 are in an unstable state both thermally and physically, and their stabilization is required. If the temperature during heat treatment is below 130 ° C, then the thread is not sufficiently heat-treated, and therefore the loops change during dyeing, which leads to a deterioration in the quality of materials. If the temperature during heat treatment is higher than 210 ° C, the rigidity increases due to excessive heat treatment, which leads to a decrease in the possibility of obtaining materials that are soft to the touch.

In addition, if during the heat treatment the advance rate is less than -8%, the tension increases, and therefore the loops formed during pneumotexturing are not saved. This leads to a decrease in bulk, an increase in glossiness and an increase in oriented crystallization, which leads to a deterioration in properties during dyeing. In addition, if the heat advance is greater than 0% during heat treatment, the process of transporting the thread worsens due to low tension, the breakage of the thread increases because the threads touch the surface of the hollow heater, and there are problems associated with poor quality, for example singed spots appear.

A thread treated in this way with various shrinkage is wound under the condition that the advance rate when feeding is in the range of (-2) - (- 12)%. If the feed advance rate is higher than -2%, the stiffness of the threads wound on the paper tube decreases, and the compactness of the threads decreases, which leads to a collapse of the layers of the threads when they are processed in weaving at a high speed. On the other hand, if the feed advance rate is lower than -12%, the stiffness of the threads wound on the paper tube increases, the winding conditions deteriorate, the compactness of the threads increases, which leads to a deterioration in the separability of the threads during weaving.

In the winding process described above, the feed advance is determined by the peripheral speed of the third feed roller 5 and the take-up roller 8. Namely, the feed advance, having a negative value of less than 0%, during winding means that the peripheral speed of the take-up roller 8 is greater than the peripheral speeds of the third feed roller 5.

A textured yarn thus produced with different shrinkage according to the present invention has a structure in which at least one or two kinds of decorative yarn consisting of a component from which the fiber is formed and an extractable component, or consisting of at least two kinds of components, which are formed into fibers with a linear density of filaments of 0.001-0.3 denier after separation or extraction of the extracted component, are braided around a thermoplastic multifilament yarn ty), formed from a two-component composite yarn 2-350 loops per meter on the surface of the textured yarn, and the loops have a length of at least 1.0 mm, and more than 95% of the loops of a two-component composite yarn having a length of at least 1, 0 mm, has a length of 1.0-2.5 mm.

In the case where the total linear density of a textured yarn with different shrinkage is less than 100 denier, it is more preferable that 2-50 loops per meter of yarn length are formed from a two-component composite yarn.

More specifically, a textured yarn with different shrinkage consists of a thermoplastic multifilament yarn used as a core part, and a two-component composite yarn used as a decorative part. In the center of a textured yarn with different shrinkage, thermoplastic complex yarns are relatively more distributed, and on the outer part of it is distributed a relatively large number of two-component composite yarns in the form of a large number of loops. This leads to a very good bulk, and when used in materials, a large number of uniform fibrils can be completely distributed after weight reduction and extraction. As a result, when developing fabrics or knitted materials, they provide very good suede-like properties to the touch and compact structure.

When using ordinary woven yarns with different shrinkage, as shown in Figure 4, although it is possible to obtain bulk materials due to the difference in the length of the threads caused by the difference in shrinkage during heating of the core and decorative threads, the fibrils are not properly separated and loosened after weight reduction and extraction , and therefore, the pile fibers are aggregated, which reduces the possibility of obtaining materials with pleasant properties to the touch and with an unsatisfactory appearance.

To solve such a problem, however, by means of the present invention, suede-like fabrics or knitted materials having very good touch properties can be made in which the differences in the volume of the core thread and the decorative thread are maximized in the production of fabrics or knitted materials, and the density and uniformity are increased. pile not just by mixing the thread with high shrinkage and a two-component composite thread with low shrinkage, but by forcing the withdrawal of a two-component composite thread surface textured yarn with a different shrinkage in the form of loops.

The processability in the processing of textured yarns with different shrinkage according to the present invention, containing a large number of loops, can be impaired by the presence of loops when used to produce fabrics or knitted materials.

To achieve good processability during processing and very good quality, the length of the loops and the number of loops are very important.

The textured yarn with different shrinkage according to the present invention contains 2-350 loops of a two-component composite yarn per meter of yarn length, wherein the loop length is at least 1.0 mm. If the number of loops is less than two per meter, then it is impossible to obtain high quality due to a decrease in volume. If the number of loops is more than 350 per meter, then manufacturability during processing in weaving is deteriorated due to the large friction force during the movement of the thread.

In addition, the length of the loops is also important to achieve good processability during weaving processing and to obtain materials with a uniform pile. At least 95% of the loops formed on the textured yarn with different shrinkage and having a length of at least 1.0 mm, according to the present invention, has a length of 1.0-2.5 mm. If there is a mass of loops with a length of more than 2.5 mm, then the friction force increases so much that manufacturability is worsened. In addition, after processing into fabrics or knitted materials, the length of the pile becomes uneven, which reduces the possibility of obtaining materials with very good quality.

In addition, the textured yarn according to the present invention has a strength of 1.5-3.0 g / denier and uniformity (U%) of 0.5-1.0. In addition, the strength of a textured yarn with different shrinkage after separation and extraction of the extracted component increases by 5-30% compared with the strength before separation or extraction of the extracted component, and the number of loops on the surface of a textured yarn with different shrinkage increases by 8-170 times.

The textured yarn with different shrinkage described above according to the present invention is used as a warp and / or weft and is processed into fabrics or knitted materials in the usual way to obtain a fabric, warp knitted fabric or round knitted fabric (hereinafter referred to as fabric or knitted material). The fabric or knitted material is then heat treated in order to exhibit differences in shrinkage, wherein the fibrils are separated during leaching by reducing the mass, forming a pile during processes such as teasing or fluffing, and then the finished product is obtained by dyeing, chemical treatment and heat setting.

In the case where a textured yarn with different shrinkage according to the present invention is used in materials, it is possible to obtain a high-quality material, even if the yarn is used only as a warp or only as a weft, without using them as a warp and weft at the same time. The fabric or knitted material thus obtained is superior to conventional fabrics or knitted materials in terms of dispersion of fibrils, density and uniformity of the pile.

When comparing the surface photograph of the material obtained in Example 1 according to the present invention (see FIG. 5) and the surface photograph of the material obtained in Comparative Example 1 in a known manner (see FIG. 6), it is clear that the material according to the present invention has very good qualities, since it has a higher pile density than ordinary material.

In the present invention, various physical properties and characteristics of threads and fabrics or knitted materials were evaluated using the following methods.

Elongation at break (%) and tensile strength (g / denier)

Elongation at break and tensile strength are measured using an Instron tensile testing machine, Model 4201, according to ASTM D 2556 (ASTM - American Society for Testing Materials) under standard conditions (temperature 20 ° C; relative humidity 65%).

The degree of shrinkage in boiling water (%)

The degree of shrinkage in boiling water was measured according to JIS-L 1037-5-12 (JIS - Japanese Industrial Standards).

Uniformity (U%)

Using an instrument of the Uster company, type C, to determine uniformity, measurements were made for one minute under the following conditions: thread speed 25 m / min; instrument range ± 12.5%; chart moving speed 5 cm / min. Then evaluated the uniformity (U%).

The degree of increment of the strength of a textured yarn with different shrinkage after weight reduction in comparison with the strength to weight reduction

The tensile strength (X) of a textured yarn with different shrinkage before weight reduction and the tensile strength (Y) of a textured yarn with different shrinkage were respectively measured after weight reduction in a 1% NaOH solution at 95 ° C. Then, the values obtained during measurements were substituted into the following formula for calculation:

The length of the loops and their number

The measurements were made using a Frey counter model DT-104 (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.), for one minute at a speed of 60 m / min, as recommended in the International Fiber Journal (December 1993, pp. 5-10) . Specifically, the number (X) of loops with a maximum length of at least 1.0 mm (hereinafter “loop length”) protruding from the surface of the textured yarn was determined using the measuring tool mentioned above, and then determined using the measuring tool mentioned above the number (Y) of loops at least 2.5 mm long. The values obtained from the measurements were substituted into the following formula and the ratio of loops 1.0-2.5 mm long and loops at least 1.0 mm long was obtained:

As for the methodology for measuring the length of the loop, a thread guide equipped with a micrometer was used; textured yarn with different shrinkage was carried out in a constant direction, and light was transmitted at right angles to the direction of movement. When the shadow of the loops above the set value appeared on the screen, the current passing through the optical transistor connected to the back side of the pin hole was amplified to an electric signal. Thus, the number of loops was determined by automatic counting using a counter.

Drapability, softness, uniformity of pile, melange effect

Organoleptic tests were performed using an expert group of 10 people. A five-point grading system was used; with an average rating of more than four points, the quality was considered excellent; with an average rating of 3.9-3.0 points, the quality was considered good, and with an assessment of less than 2.9 points, the quality was considered poor.

Explanations for the designations of the main parts in the drawings:

A - low-shrink two-component composite thread (decorative thread);

B - thermoplastic complex thread (core thread);

C - highly oriented non-elongated two-component composite thread (decorative thread);

D - high shrink thread (core thread);

a is a part of a loop of a textured yarn with different shrinkage according to the present invention;

b - the compact part of the usual mixed thread (CH) with different shrinkage;

C is the volumetric part of the usual mixed thread (CH) with different shrinkage;

1, 10 - the first feed roller;

2, 13 - the second feed roller;

3, 14 - pneumo-texturing nozzle;

4 - a device for supplying water;

5, 15 - the third feed roller;

6 - hollow heater;

7 - the fourth feed roller;

8, 16 - receiving roller;

11 - hot plate;

12 - device false twist.

BEST EMBODIMENTS

Below the present invention is described in more detail with reference to Examples and Comparative examples. But the present invention is not limited to these examples only.

Example 1

Polyethylene terephthalate with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.66 was used as a fiber component, and a copolymerized polyester with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.58 obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with sulfoisophthalic acid in an amount of 2.5 mol% and polyethylene glycol in the amount of 10 wt.%. Two types of polymers were respectively melted, of which the filaments were spun at a molding temperature of 290 ° C and at a molding speed of 1200 m / min using a conjugated spinneret block; then the hood was drawn in the usual way with a draw ratio of 3.3; Thus, a two-component composite thread with a linear density of 13.34 tex / 48 filaments with a degree of shrinkage in boiling water of 8% was made. Meanwhile, a copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.66 was prepared by copolymerizing the polyethylene terephthalate with a third component of the copolymer, i.e. with isophthalic acid in an amount of 10 mol.%, melted at a temperature of 280 ° C, molded with a molding speed of 1450 m / min and then stretched with a draw ratio of 2.9 at a temperature of 90 ° C;

Thus, a thermoplastic multifilament yarn with a linear density of 3.336 tex / 12 filaments with a degree of shrinkage in boiling water of 23% was prepared. The bicomponent composite yarn thus obtained was fed as a decorative yarn to a pneumotexturing nozzle (Hebrain T-311) with a 38% advance rate, and under the same conditions, the thermoplastic multifilament yarn thus prepared was fed as a core thread to a pneumotexturing nozzle with a lead degree when serving 16%. They were pneumo-textured with compressed air at a pressure of 12 kgf / cm ² , thermofixed in a hollow heater 6 at a temperature of 180 ° C in a state in which the advance rate at feed was -3%, and then wound under the condition that the feed advance was -8 %;

thus, a textured yarn with different shrinkage was made. An eight-woven satin weave fabric was made using a textured yarn as a weft, and then washed, the mass was reduced by treatment with alkali, dyed, heat-fixed, teased and fluffed under normal conditions, thereby producing a suede-like fabric. The results of the assessment of the physical properties of a textured yarn with different shrinkage and the fabric thus obtained are presented in Table 2.

Examples 2-5

A textured yarn with different shrinkage and suede-like fabric was made by the same methods as in Example 1, except that the content of isophthalic acid in the copolymer was changed; the degree of shrinkage in boiling water of the core thread; the degree of lead when feeding the core thread and the degree of lead when feeding the decorative thread as shown in Table 1. The results of the assessment of the physical properties of a textured thread with different shrinkage and the fabric thus obtained are presented in Table 2.

Table 1
Manufacturing conditions Classification The content of isophthalic acid in the copolymer, mol. % The degree of shrinkage of the core thread in boiling water,% Compressed air pressure, kgf / cm ² The degree of advance when feeding,% Core thread Decorative thread Example 1 10 23 12 16 38 Example 2 0 8 12 16 38 Example 3 12 thirty 12 16 38 Example 4 10 23 10 10 22 Example 5 10 23 fourteen 35 55

Example 6

Polyethylene terephthalate with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.66 was used as the fiber component, and a copolymer of a polyester with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.58, which was obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with sulfoisophthalic acid in an amount of 2.5 mol% and polyethylene glycol, was used as the soluble component. in the amount of 10 wt.%. Two types of polymers were respectively melted, of which they were molded at a molding temperature of 290 ° C and at a molding speed of 3200 m / min using a conjugated spinneret block, thereby obtaining a highly oriented non-stretched filament with a linear density of 22.24 tex / 48 filaments. Then the fabricated thread was subjected to extraction in the usual way on a complex machine of false torsion (temperature of the hot plate 150 ° C) (see Figure 2); thus, a false torsion thread was made with a linear density of 13.34 tex / 48 filaments with a degree of shrinkage in boiling water of 6%. Meanwhile, a copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate with a characteristic viscosity of 0.66, which was prepared by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with a third component of the copolymer, i.e. with isophthalic acid in an amount of 10 mol.%, melted at 280 ° C, molded at a speed of 1450 m / min and then stretched at a draw ratio of 2.9 and at a temperature of 90 ° C; Thus, a thermoplastic multifilament yarn with a linear density of 3.336 tex / 12 filaments with a degree of shrinkage in boiling water of 23% was made. Then the false twist yarn and the thermoplastic multifilament yarn thus obtained were pneumotextured in the same manner and under the same conditions as in Example 1, thereby producing a textured yarn with different shrinkage. An eight-piece satin weave fabric was made using a textured yarn as a weft, then the fabric was washed, the mass was reduced by alkali treatment, dyed, heat-fixed, teased and fluffed under normal conditions, thereby producing a suede-like fabric. The results of the assessment of the physical properties of a textured yarn with different shrinkage and the fabric thus obtained are presented in Table 2.

Example 7

Polyethylene terephthalate with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.66 was used as the fiber-forming component, and a copolymer of a polyester with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.58, which was obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with sulfoisophthalic acid in an amount of 2.5 mol% and polyethylene glycol, was used as the soluble component. in the amount of 10 wt.%. Two types of polymers were respectively melted, of which the filaments were spun at a spinning temperature of 290 ° C and at a spinning speed of 1200 m / min using a conjugated spinneret block, and then they were pulled in the usual way with a draw ratio of 3.3, thereby producing a two-component linear composite thread with a density of 120 denier / 48 filaments with a degree of shrinkage in boiling water of 8%. Meanwhile, a polyamide with a relative viscosity of 2.50 was used as the component from which the fiber was formed, and a copolymerized polyester with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.58, which was obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with sulfoisophthalic acid in an amount of 2.5, was used as the soluble component. mol.% and polyethylene glycol in an amount of 10 wt.%. Two types of polymers were respectively melted, of which the filaments were spun at a molding temperature of 280 ° C and at a molding speed of 1200 m / min using a conjugated spinneret block, and then they were pulled in the usual way with a draw ratio of 3.3, thereby producing a two-component linear composite thread with a density of 120 denier / 48 filaments with a degree of shrinkage in boiling water of 6%. Meanwhile, a copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.66, which was obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with a third component of the copolymer, i.e. with isophthalic acid in an amount of 10 mol%, was melted at a temperature of 280 ° C, filaments were spun with a spinning speed of 1450 m / min, and then stretched with a draw ratio of 2.9 at a temperature of 90 ° C, thereby producing a thermoplastic multifilament yarn of linear density 3.34 tex / 12 filaments with a degree of shrinkage in boiling water of 23%. The two types of bicomponent composite yarn obtained in this way were simultaneously fed as a decorative thread into a pneumotexturing nozzle (Hebrain T-311) with a 38% advance rate and the thermoplastic multifilament yarn thus obtained was fed as a core thread to a pneumotexturing nozzle with a degree advances in the filing of 16%. They were pneumo-textured using compressed air at a pressure of 12 kgf / cm ² and thermofixed in a hollow heater 6 at a temperature of 180 ° C in a state in which the feed advance was -4%, and then wound under conditions where the feed advance was was -7%, thus producing a textured yarn with different shrinkage. An eight-piece satin weave fabric was made using a textured thread as a weft; after that it was washed, the mass was reduced by treatment with alkali, dyed, thermofixed, teased and fluffed under ordinary conditions, thereby making a suede-like fabric. The results of the assessment of the physical properties of a textured yarn with different shrinkage and the fabric thus obtained are presented in Table 2.

Example 8

As the component forming the fiber, polyethylene terephthalate with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.66 and a polyamide with a relative viscosity of 2.50 were used. Two types of polymers were respectively melted, of which the filaments were spun at a molding temperature of 290 ° C and at a molding speed of 1200 m / min using a conjugated spinneret block, then they were stretched in the usual way with a draw ratio of 3.0, thereby producing a two-component composite thread with linear density 120 denier / 48 filaments with a degree of shrinkage in boiling water of 6%. Meanwhile, polyethylene terephthalate with a characteristic viscosity of 0.66 was melted at a temperature of 290 ° C, filaments were spun with a spinning speed of 1450 m / min, then stretched at a draw ratio of 2.9 at a temperature of 110 ° C, thereby producing a thermoplastic multifilament yarn 30 denier / 12 filaments with a degree of shrinkage in boiling water of 7%. Then, the bicomponent composite yarn thus obtained, used as a decorative yarn, and the thermoplastic yarn thus obtained, used as a core yarn, was subjected to pneumotexturing in the same manner and under the same conditions as in Example 1, thereby producing a textured yarn with various shrinkage. An eight-piece satin weave fabric was made using a textured thread as a weft; after that it was washed, the mass was reduced by treatment with alkali, dyed, thermofixed, teased and fluffed under ordinary conditions, thereby making a suede-like fabric. The results of the assessment of the physical properties of a textured yarn with different shrinkage and the fabric thus obtained are presented in Table 2.

Comparative Example 1

Polyethylene terephthalate with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.66 was used as the fiber component, and a copolymerized polyester with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.58, which was obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with sulfoisophthalic acid in an amount of 2.5 mol% and polyethylene glycol, was used as the soluble component. in the amount of 10 wt.%. Two types of polymers were respectively melted, of which the filaments were spun at a spinning temperature of 290 ° C and at a spinning speed of 3200 m / min using a conjugated spinneret block, thereby obtaining a highly oriented non-stretched yarn with a linear density of 200 denier / 48 filaments. After that, the fabricated thread was subjected to false twist in the usual way on a complex machine of false torsion (hot plate temperature 150 ° C) (see Figure 2), thus producing a false torsion thread with a linear density of 120 denier / 48 filaments with a degree of shrinkage in boiling water 6% Meanwhile, a copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate with a characteristic viscosity of 0.66, which was prepared by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with a third component of the copolymer, i.e. with isophthalic acid in an amount of 10 mol%, was melted at 280 ° C, the filaments were spun with a spinning speed of 1450 m / min and then stretched with a draw ratio of 2.9 at a temperature of 90 ° C, thereby producing a thermoplastic multifilament yarn with a linear density of 30 denier / 12 filaments with a degree of shrinkage in boiling water of 23%. Then the false twist thread and the thermoplastic multifilament yarn thus obtained were braided (mixed up) on a complex false torsion machine, provided that the feed advance was 2.5% and the compressed air pressure was 3.5 kgf / cm ² , so by making a mixed thread with different shrinkage. An eight-piece satin weave fabric was made using a tangled thread as a weft; after that it was washed, the mass was reduced by treatment with alkali, dyed, thermofixed, teased and fluffed under ordinary conditions, thereby making a suede-like fabric. The results of the assessment of the physical properties of a tangled yarn with different shrinkage and the fabric thus obtained are presented in Table 2.

Reference Example 2

Polyethylene terephthalate with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.66 was used as the fiber component, and a copolymerized polyester with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.58, which was obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with sulfoisophthalic acid in an amount of 2.5 mol% and polyethylene glycol, was used as the soluble component. in the amount of 10 wt.%. Two types of polymers were respectively melted, of which the filaments were spun at a molding temperature of 290 ° C and at a molding speed of 1200 m / min using a conjugated spinneret block, then they were stretched in the usual way with a draw ratio of 3.3, thereby producing a two-component composite thread with linear density 120 denier / 48 filaments with a degree of shrinkage in boiling water of 6%. Meanwhile, a copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate with a characteristic viscosity of 0.66, which was prepared by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with a third component of the copolymer, i.e. with isophthalic acid in an amount of 10 mol%, was melted at 280 ° C, the filaments were spun with a spinning speed of 1450 m / min and then stretched with a draw ratio of 2.9 at a temperature of 90 ° C, thereby producing a thermoplastic multifilament yarn with a linear density of 30 denier / 12 filaments with a degree of shrinkage in boiling water of 23%. The bicomponent composite yarn thus obtained was fed as a decorative thread into a pneumotexturing nozzle with a 3% advance, and the thermoplastic multifilament yarn thus obtained was fed as a core filament into the same pneumotexturing nozzle with a 3% advance. They were intertwined (mixed up) at a pressure of compressed air of 3.5 kgf / cm ² , thus producing a tangled thread (CH) with different shrinkage. An eight-piece satin weave fabric was made using a tangled thread (CH) as a weft; after that it was washed, the mass was reduced by treatment with alkali, dyed, thermofixed, teased and fluffed under ordinary conditions, thereby making a suede-like fabric. The results of the assessment of the physical properties of a tangled thread (CH) with different shrinkage and the fabric thus obtained are presented in Table 2.

Reference Example 3

A copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate with a characteristic viscosity of 0.66, which was prepared by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with a third component of the copolymer, i.e. with isophthalic acid in an amount of 10 mol.%, was melted at a temperature of 280 ° C, filaments were spun with a spinning speed of 1450 m / min and then stretched with a draw ratio of 2.9 at a temperature of 90 ° C, thereby producing a thermoplastic multifilament yarn of linear density 30 denier / 12 filaments with a degree of shrinkage in boiling water of 23%. The thermoplastic multifilament yarn thus obtained was fed as a core filament to a pneumotexturing nozzle (Hebrain T-311) with a degree of advance of 16%, and a multifilament polyester filament with a linear density of 120 denier / 48 filaments with the degree of shrinkage in boiling water is 8% with the degree of lead when feeding 30%. They were subjected to pneumotexturing at a pressure of compressed air of 10 kgf / cm ² , thus making a textured thread with different shrinkage. An eight-piece satin weave fabric was made using a textured thread as a weft; after that it was washed, the mass was reduced by treatment with alkali, dyed, thermofixed, teased and fluffed under ordinary conditions, thereby making a suede-like fabric. The results of the assessment of the physical properties of a textured yarn with different shrinkage and the fabric thus obtained are presented in Table 2.

table 2
Physical properties of textured yarn and material Classification Example Comparative example one 2 3 four 5 6 7 8 one 2 3 Physical properties of textured yarns with different shrinkage The number of loops 1.0-2.5 mm long 112 109 111 65 256 72 162 125 0 0 87 The number of loops longer than 2.5 mm one 0 one 0 9 0 four 0 0 0 5 The degree (number of times) increment of surface loops after weight reduction 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 - - 3 Strength (g / denier) before weight reduction 1.8 2.6 3.2 2.6 1,6 2,4 1.8 2.6 2,8 3.8 3.6 Strength (g / denier) after weight reduction 2.0 2.9 3.4 3,1 1.9 3.0 2.0 2.9 2.7 3,7 3.6 Uniformity (U%) 0.61 0.72 0.85 0.71 0.92 0.57 0.80 0.72 0.63 0.45 0.42 Physical properties of the material Drapability Very well Good Very well Good Very well Very well Very well Very well poorly poorly poorly Softness Very well Very well Very well Good Very well Very well Very well Very well poorly poorly poorly Pile uniformity Very well Good Very well Very well Good Very well Very well Very well poorly poorly poorly Melange effect poorly poorly poorly poorly poorly poorly Very well Very well poorly poorly poorly

Industrial applicability.

Textured yarn with different shrinkage according to the present invention has good touch properties and good appearance, since it achieves a very good dispersion of filaments of a two-component composite yarn, high pile density and uniform pile length in the manufacture of fabrics and knitted materials. Thus, a textured thread with different shrinkage is suitable for use as threads for the manufacture of clothing. In addition, the method of manufacturing a textured yarn with different shrinkage according to the present invention is simplified in its implementation and improved in terms of manufacturability, therefore, the method of obtaining a two-component composite yarn twist can be excluded.

Claims (30)

1.Textured yarn with different shrinkage and excellent properties imitating suede, in which at least one or two kinds of decorative yarn, which is a two-component composite yarn containing filaments with a linear density of 0.001-0.3 denier, after separation or extraction of the extracted component, wrapped around a core thread, which is a thermoplastic multifilament thread, with 2-350 loops per meter length of a two-component composite thread formed on the surface of the textured thread another, at least 1.0 mm, with more than 95% of these loops of two-component composite yarn has a length of 1.0-2.5 mm 2. Textured thread according to claim 1, in which the degree of shrinkage in boiling water of the decorated thread is 0-15%. 3. The textured thread according to claim 1, in which the degree of shrinkage in boiling water of the core thread is 5-50%. 4. The textured yarn according to claim 1, on the surface of which 2-50 loops per meter of length of the core yarn are formed at least 1.0 mm long. 5. The textured yarn according to claim 1, in which the linear density of the core thread is 1-8 denier. 6. The textured yarn according to claim 1, wherein the decorative yarn consists of at least two kinds of fiber-forming components having different dyeing properties. 7. The textured yarn according to claim 1 or 6, wherein the decorative yarn consists of a fiber-forming component of polyester and a component forming a polyamide fiber. 8. The textured yarn of claim 1, wherein the decorative yarn consists of a fiber forming component and an extractable component. 9. The textured yarn according to claim 1 or 8, wherein the fiber forming component and the extracted component in the decorative yarn are joined together into long sheath-core fibers or separated. 10. The textured yarn according to claim 1, in which the decorative yarn contains at least two types of two-component composite yarns, each of which consists of a component that forms the fiber, and from the extracted component, and the components that make up the fiber have different properties when dyeing. 11. The textured yarn according to claim 1 or 10, wherein the decorative yarn comprises a two-component composite yarn consisting of a component forming a polyester fiber and an extractable component, and a two-component composite yarn consisting of a component forming a polyamide fiber, and extractable component. 12. Textured yarn according to claim 1, in which the strength of a textured yarn with different shrinkage is 1.5-3.0 g / denier. 13. The textured yarn according to claim 1, in which the uniformity (U%) of the textured yarn with different shrinkage is 0.5-1.0. 14. The textured yarn according to claim 1, in which the strength of a textured yarn with different shrinkage after separation or extraction of the extracted component is increased by 5-30% compared with the strength before separation or extraction of the extracted component. 15. The textured yarn according to claim 1, in which the number of loops on the surface of a textured yarn with different shrinkage is increased 8-170 times in comparison with the number of loops before separation or extraction of the extracted component. 16. A method of manufacturing a textured thread with different shrinkage and very good properties that imitate suede by pneumotexturing the decorative thread and the core thread, in which at least one or two kinds of two-component composite thread is fed as a decorative thread into the pneumotexturing nozzle with a degree of advance 10-60% using the first feed roller, wherein the two-component composite yarn consists of a fiber forming component and of an extractable component or consists of at least d a variety of fiber-forming components and contains filaments with a linear density of 0.001-0.3 denier after separation or extraction of the extracted component, while at the same time the thermoplastic multifilament yarn is fed as a core filament into a pneumotexturing nozzle with a lead of 5-55 % using a second feed roller, while supplying water to a water supply device located between the second feed roller and the pneumo-texturing nozzle, and then the decorative and core threads of the pneumo-texturing out by compressed air at a pressure of 6-16 kgf / cm ² pnevmoteksturiruyuschem nozzle is subjected to a heat treatment at a temperature of 130-210 ° C in a hollow heater in a state in which the degree of advance is 0 - (- 8)%, and wound in a state in which the degree of advance is (-2) - (-12)%. 17. The method according to clause 16, in which the elongation of the core thread is 25-45%. 18. The method according to clause 16, in which the elongation of the decorative thread is 23-45%. 19. The method according to clause 16, in which the decorative thread consists of at least two kinds of components that form the fiber and have different properties during dyeing. 20. The method according to clause 16 or 19, in which the decorative thread consists of a component forming a fiber from a complex polyester, and from a component forming a polyamide fiber. 21. The method according to clause 16, in which the decorative thread consists of a component forming a fiber, and from the extracted component. 22. The method according to clause 16, in which the decorative thread includes at least two types of two-component composite yarns, each of which consists of a component that forms the fiber, and from the extracted component, and the components that form the fiber have different properties when dyeing. 23. The method according to clause 16 or 22, in which the decorative thread contains at least one two-component composite thread, consisting of a component forming a fiber of a complex polyester, and from the extracted component, and at least one two-component composite thread consisting of a component forming a polyamide fiber and an extractable component. 24. The method according to clause 16, in which the peripheral speed of the first feed roller and the second feed roller is 200-600 m / min 25. The method according to clause 16, in which the water supplied to the core thread by means of a device for supplying water, deionized. 26. A fabric woven from textured yarn with different shrinkage according to claim 1. 27. A circular knit fabric made from textured yarn with various shrinkage according to claim 1. 28. warp knitted fabric made from textured yarn with different shrinkage according to claim 1. Priority on points: 04/09/2002 according to claims 1-25; 04.04.2003 according to paragraphs 26-28.

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