RU2120274C1 - Cosmetic maricream - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetic industry; may be used as creams for skin care (day and night) and cosmetic masks. SUBSTANCE: cosmetic maricream includes gel-forming base, sodium salt of desoxyribonucleic acid prepared from fish milt, biologically active substances of vegetable and animal origin. Used as sodium salt of desoxyribonucleic acid is fragmentated acid prepared from milt of salmon family fish with average mol.m. not less 0.1MD. Composition has the following ratio of components, mas.%: sodium salt of desoxyribonucleic acid received from milt of salmon family fish with mol.m. not less 0.1MD, 0.05-0.3; base with biologically active substances of vegetable and animal origin, up to 100%. EFFECT: higher absorption through epiderma. 3 cl, 1 tbl

Description

 The invention relates to the cosmetic industry and can be used as a means for skin care in the form of creams (day and evening), as well as cosmetic masks.

 In the production of cosmetic preparations, various biologically active substances of both animal and plant origin are widely used. By activating the metabolism, they improve the physiological condition of the skin and prevent its aging.

 A cosmetic product is known containing substances derived from gonads of marine animals, for example, fish sperm (French application N 2511243, class A 61 K 7/40, 1983). Preparations are made in the form of day and night creams, gels, milk or lotion, and are also used as a protective agent from sunlight. The source of fish sperm is salmon milk, from which deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) and other components used in this cosmetic product are produced and have a regenerative effect on the skin. The drug is used as a protective agent from exposure to sunlight.

 The disadvantage of this tool is that DNA and other substances obtained from the gonads of marine animals (sperm of fish) are large. This makes it difficult for them to penetrate the skin barrier, which leads to a decrease in the efficiency of use of these components by the epidermal basal cells. The extinction of the mitotic activity of the basal cells of the epidermis is one of the main causes of skin aging.

 The closest technical solution (prototype) is a cosmetic cream that includes sodium salt of DNA obtained from sturgeon milk, glycerin, lanolin, beeswax, gelling base, preservative, perfume and water (RF patent N 2032397, class A 61 K 7 / 00, 1995). The molecular weight of the sodium salt of DNA in the cosmetic is (0.3 - 12.0) MD. The cream has anti-geriatric, anti-inflammatory, hydratant, photoprotective and antioxidant effects.

 However, the cream has a lack of effectiveness due to low penetration into the skin. This is due to the fact that the molecules of DNA and other substances obtained from sturgeon milk and which are part of the cosmetic product are large (0.3 MD or more) and this makes them difficult to penetrate the skin barrier. The permeability of the skin barrier is known to decrease with increasing molecular size of the substance passing through this barrier (Shovt SM, Rubas W., Paasch BD, Mrsny RJ Transport of biologically active interferon-gamma across human skin in vitro. - Pharm. Res. - 1995 , 12, 8, 1140 - 1145).

 The objective of the invention is the creation of such a cosmetic cream, which would have a higher penetrating ability through the epidermis, which would lead to an increase in the degree of restoration of the equilibrium process of formation of the epidermal layer of cells.

This problem is solved in that in a cosmetic marikrem, including a base, sodium salt of DNA obtained from fish milk, according to the invention, it additionally contains biologically active substances of plant and animal origin, fragmented DNA obtained from salmon milk is used as a sodium salt of DNA , with an average mol. m. less than 0.1 MD, in the following ratio of components, wt.%:
Sodium salt of DNA obtained from salmon milk, with mol. m. less than 0.1 MD - 0.05 - 0.3
Base with biologically active substances of plant and animal origin - The rest is up to 100%
Polyethylene oxide gel is used as a base, and calendula extract, May cherry leaf extract, chicken egg yolks, olive and palm oils, clary sage oil and geranium oil are used as biologically active substances of plant and animal origin.

 A well-proven source of the release of deoxyribonucleic acids (DNA) for industrial purposes is mature fish milk, which has several advantages over raw materials of other origin such as organs and tissues of animals or plants, biomass of microorganisms, etc. The main advantages of fish milk as a raw material can be attributed to: the highest DNA content compared to other sources, the relatively low content of ribonucleic acids (RNA) and other impurities, as well as the low cost and availability of milk, which are waste products from the fishing industry. Moreover, marine animals do not have cross-diseases with humans, which greatly simplifies the technology for the preparation of cosmetics.

For the preparation of marikrem, fragmented DNA from salmon milk is used, the technology for which has been patented (decision to grant a patent dated January 30, 1996 according to application N 95116051, "Method for the preparation of sodium salt of DNA from fish milk"). The technology includes washing and homogenizing salmon milk, followed by deproteinization of the isolated DNA complex with a protein enzyme preparation. Collagenase is used as an enzyme preparation (VFS 42-399 BC-93 effective from 07/12/93) isolated from hepatopancreas of the Kamchatka crab, which has proteolytic, lipase, and nuclease activities. EDTA was added simultaneously with the enzyme, followed by incubation of the reaction mixture at 37 ^° C. Next, the resulting product was mixed with NaCl, heated to 56-60 ^° C and kept at this temperature for 3-4 hours. The mixture was cooled to 4 ^° C and the precipitate was separated off or centrifuged or by suction filtration. To obtain low molecular weight DNA (with a molecular weight of less than 0.1 MD), EDTA is added to a final concentration in the reaction mixture of not more than 10 mM.

 Fragmentation of DNA to an average molecular size of less than 0.1 MD facilitates its more rapid penetration through the epidermis and slows down the aging process of the skin associated with the extinction of the mitotic activity of the epidermal basal cells. The specified component of the drug has a wide spectrum of action at the cellular and organismic levels. This is a strong adaptogen that increases the body's resistance, including skin cells, to adverse environmental influences.

A mixture of the extract of May leaves of bird cherry and calendula extract provides a reliable bacteriostatic and fungicidal effect. Shelf life of the cream without the introduction of chemical stabilizers is at least 6 months at +7 ^o C. In addition, the extract of bird cherry leaves and calendula extract also exhibit antioxidant and embalming properties, contribute to keratinization of the skin.

 To obtain an emulsion, olive and palm oils are used as vegetable oils. Vegetable oils soften and fortify the skin, preventing the mechanisms of its aging associated with the course of oxidative processes (antioxidant effect), make up for the loss of sebum when washing, adverse weather effects, and also have a mild deodorizing, antiseptic effect.

 Geranium and clary sage oils have a pleasant smell and serve as a perfume.

 Chicken egg yolk is a source of lecithin - a natural surface-active substance (surfactant) - a detergent that helps remove skin contamination and has a nourishing effect.

 The gel of polyethylene oxide (TU 9154-004-11821987-93) gives the product a jelly-like state, has a stabilizing effect on the biologically active substances included in the cosmetic product and increases the usability of the specified tool. In addition, the polyethylene oxide gel itself softens and moisturizes the skin, promotes better penetration of nutrients and enzymes through the skin barrier.

 The specified combination of the components of the agent exhibits a noticeable synergy in the effect on the skin in comparison with individual substances.

 The invention meets the criteria of patentability, in particular, inventive step, since fragmented DNA obtained from salmon milk (the size of an individual DNA fragment is less than 0.1 MD) and having the following characteristics in comparison with the prototype was first introduced into the composition of a cosmetic cream as a biologically active additive which uses DNA from sturgeon milk (table).

 Fragmented DNA used in the proposed cosmetic product is a more active component than the DNA used in the prototype and other analogues. Analysis of the quantitative content of DNA in cosmetic products-analogues and in the proposed cream shows that in the last composition requires fragmented DNA in an amount of 2 to 10 times less than in known cosmetics.

 The following are examples of the compositions of the proposed cosmetic products.

Example 1. Marikrem for skin care, having a minimum amount of biologically active substances, wt.%:
Sodium salt of DNA obtained from salmon milk, with mol. m. less than 0.1 MD - 0.05
Calendula Extract - 1.0
Infusion of May leaves of bird cherry - 3.0
Chicken Egg Yolks - 1.0
Olive oil - 0.5
Palm Oil - 3.0
Clary sage oil - 0.01
Geranium Oil - 0.01
Polyethylene Oxide Gel - Up to 100%
The ratio of components in the product is such that fragmented DNA from salmon milk and other biologically active additives are contained in minimal amounts. The biological activity of such a drug is minimal. By reducing the specified number of biologically active substances, the product will not have a noticeable cosmetic effect.

Example 2. Marikrem-mask "Aphrodite" for skin care, having an average quantitative ratio of biologically active substances, wt.%:
Sodium salt of DNA obtained from salmon milk, with mol. m. less than 0.1 MD - 0.15
Calendula Extract - 3.0
Infusion of May leaves of bird cherry - 5.5
Chicken Egg Yolks - 1.7
Olive Oil - 1.3
Palm Oil - 4.0
Clary sage oil - 0.06
Geranium Oil - 0.06
Polyethylene Oxide Gel - Up to 100%
The indicated quantitative ratio of the components of the composition is most acceptable for the preparation of cosmetics, because the composition has an effective effect on the skin due to the transdermal penetration of a significant amount of fragmented DNA and other components of the cream mask without significantly increasing its cost compared to example 1.

Example 3. Marikrem for skin care having a maximum amount of biologically active substances, wt.%:
Sodium salt of DNA obtained from salmon milk, with mol. m. less than 0.1 MD - 0.3
Calendula Extract - 5.0
Infusion of May leaves of bird cherry - 8.0
Chicken Egg Yolks - 2.5
Olive Oil - 2.0
Palm Oil - 5.0
Clary sage oil - 0.1
Geranium Oil - 0.1
Polyethylene Oxide Gel - Up to 100%
The components of the product in the specified ratio have the greatest activating effect. The drug is stable when stored at a temperature of +7 ^o C (in a refrigerator) for more than 6 months. An increase in the content of the components of the agent above the values indicated in example 3 slightly increases its activity, but the consumption of biologically active substances increases significantly, which is accompanied by a rise in the cost of the product.

 Example 4. The technology of preparation of marikrem for skin care. In the manufacture of the drug, simple technological equipment is used, equipped with a rector with a stirrer.

To prepare a marikrem mask, a polyethylene oxide gel is loaded into a stirred reactor at a temperature of +18 - 20 ^o C and the following components are added with stirring according to the above recipe (examples 1 - 3): sodium salt of DNA obtained from salmon fish milk, mol. m. less than 0.1 MD, calendula extract, infusion of May leaves of bird cherry, egg yolks, olive oil, palm oil, clary sage oil and geranium oil. After mixing the components of the composition for 20 to 30 minutes, measure the pH of the mixture. If the pH of the mixture is below 7.2 ± 0.2 (the polyethylene oxide gel has an acidic environment), a phosphate-salt additive (Na ₂ HPO ₄ • 12 H ₂ O) is added to the composition in an amount sufficient to maintain a pH of 7.2 ± 0.2. Then the mixture is again homogenized in the reactor for 20 to 30 minutes, the finished cosmetic product is packaged in a container and stored at a temperature of + 7 ^o C.

 The cold method of preparing the cream allows you to maximize the activity of its constituents.

 Example 5. Data on clinical trials.

 Clinical trials of the proposed cream have been carried out on several groups of healthy women from 10 to 15 people aged 30 to 50 years old with dry, aging and normal skin type. On examination (before the experiment), some patients had dry skin, peeling, sagging, i.e. Signs of premature skin aging. To identify individual sensitivity to the cream, the possibility of its long-term use, preliminary tests were performed, including applying one or two drops of marikrem on a clean surface of the elbow bend and monitoring the condition of the skin for 0.5-1 hours. If the skin surface is not at the place of application of the cream changed, then we applied patchwork samples to the skin with an exposure of 24 hours. In the case of a negative patchwork sample, the cream was then applied for 3 weeks by applying a thin layer to the skin of the face and neck 1 time per day Ki for 25 - 30 minutes The remaining cream was removed with a napkin. When testing the cream, its effect on skin color, the presence of wrinkles, fat content and vascular reactions were noted.

 In all patients, patchwork samples were negative. Long-term observations showed that the absorbency of the cream is good, it softens the skin, relieves the effects of dryness, peeling, inflammation, has a hydrant effect and preserves the natural dullness of the skin surface. The cream does not form a film.

 Recommended use of the cream. In the daytime version, the cream in an amount of 0.2 - 0.5 g is distributed with light massaging movements on the surface of the face (neck) until it is almost completely absorbed (1 - 2 min). After this, the application of decorative cosmetics is possible. In the evening, the cream is easily removed from the skin surface with warm water.

 In the evening version, the cream in an amount of 0.2 - 0.5 g is distributed over the surface of the face (neck) until it is almost completely absorbed (1 - 2 min). After this, the procedure is repeated. In the morning, the cream is easily removed from the skin surface with warm water.

 Thus, in comparison with analogues and prototype, the proposed cream has a wider spectrum of biological activity with a pronounced geriatric effect due to the higher penetration through the epidermis. As a result of this, there is an increase in the degree of restoration of the equilibrium process of formation of the epidermal layer of cells. The product has a hydratant, photoprotective, antioxidant, proliferative, anti-inflammatory effect on the skin, is well absorbed and does not form a film. There are no side effects.

 Aphrodite regenerating maricream is designed to prevent withering and aging of the skin of the face and neck (for any skin type), as well as to maintain its more favorable condition for a long period of time and can be recommended for use from 30 to 35 years.

 Industrial applicability. The invention can be used in cosmetics and medicine.

Claims (2)

1. Cosmetic marikrem, including the base and sodium salt of DNA obtained from fish milk, characterized in that it additionally contains biologically active substances of plant and animal origin, fragmented DNA obtained from salmon fish milk with an average mol . m. less than 0.1 MD, in the following ratio of components, wt.%:
Sodium salt of DNA obtained from salmon milk, with mol. m. less than 0.1 MD - 0.05 - 0.3
Base with biologically active substances of plant and animal origin - The rest is up to 100%
2. Marikrem according to claim 1, characterized in that a polyethylene oxide gel is used as a base.  3. Marikrem according to claim 1, characterized in that calendula extract, tincture of May cherry leaves, chicken egg yolks, olive and palm oils, clary sage oil and geranium oil are used as biologically active substances of plant and animal origin.

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