RU2110988C1 - Cosmetic cream - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: dermatology, in particular, cosmetics of gerontologic effect. SUBSTANCE: cosmetic cream for face contains biologically active additive such as sea gamma nucleotide obtained from marine products and wheat bud oil. EFFECT: increased efficiency by antioxidant action, reduced number of surface and deep wrinkles. 2 tbl

Description

 The invention relates to medicine, namely to cosmetology, and relates to cosmetics with gerontological effects.

 Impaired nucleic acid metabolism in the skin is one of the factors leading to its aging. To correct these disorders, cosmetic creams containing nucleic exchange products are used [3, 4].

 Known cream "Gerontol", which includes as a dietary supplement orthic acid [1].

 The disadvantage of the cream is a fairly narrow spectrum of action.

 Known skin cream containing sodium salt of DNA. In addition, the cream contains olive oil, synthetic higher fatty alcohols, emulsion waxes, rose wax, anhydrous lanolin, ethoxylated lanolin, glycerol monostearate, distilled monoglycerides, sodium lauryl sulfate, butyl stearate, perfume oil, water preservative, 2 perfume.

 The disadvantage of the cream is the high fat content, which makes it difficult for the beneficial additives to penetrate the skin and thereby worsen the consumer properties of the cream. In addition, a high DNA content in the cream (1.5%) can lead to the manifestation of a resorptive therapeutic effect, which is undesirable when using cosmetic products.

 The essence of the invention lies in the fact that the proposed cosmetic face cream contains as a biologically active additive nucleotides obtained from marine products - marine gamma nucleotides in combination with oil from wheat germ.

In addition, the composition of the cosmetic cream includes distilled monoglycerides, beeswax, cosmetic stearin, emulsion wax, ethoxylated lanolin, triethanolamine, distilled glycerin, vegetable oil, perfume oil, polyethylsiloxane liquid, ethyl alcohol, acrylic acid copolymer and preservatives, the following ratios of components, wt.%:
Distilled monoglycerides / MHD / or glycerol monostearate or DEG stearate - 1.0-4.0
Beeswax not less than - 1.0
Cosmetic stearin brands A, B, D, U - 0.5-2.0
Emulsion wax - 2.0-4.0
Oxyethylated lanolin - 60 or anhydrous lanolin - 0.5-1.0
Triethanolamine - 0.2-0.7
Distilled glycerin or 1,2-propylene glycol or sorbitol - 2.0-5.0
Vegetable oil - 3.0-5.0
Perfume oil or butyl stearate or isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate - 5.0-8.0
Polyethylsiloxane liquid PES-3 or PES-5 - 1.0-3.0
Rectified ethyl alcohol of the highest purification - 2.0-5.0
Marine gamma nucleotides - 0.5-2.0
Acrylic acid copolymer at least 0.3
Wheat germ oil - 0.05-0.2
Preservatives - 0.05-0.55
Fragrance for cosmetic products - 0.5-1.0
Water - Up to 100.0
The essential features of the proposal should be considered the qualitative and quantitative composition of the cream, as well as the use of marine gamma nucleotides in combination with wheat germ oil as a biologically active additive.

 It was the selection of adequate raw materials and their quantities that made it possible to create a new effective cosmetic cream with gerontological action.

 The following is a description of the raw materials that make up the cream.

 Marine gamma nucleotides (GNM) are a complex preparation obtained from salmon caviar. It contains nucleic acids, nucleotides and nucleoproteins. They have high biological activity. Produced by the French company Seporga. It is a clear liquid with a yellowish tinge. Recommended for use in dermatology to accelerate regeneration.

 Wheat germ oil is a rich source of biologically active compounds: tocopherols (Vit. E), carotenoids, ergosterols, unsaturated fatty acids.

 Beeswax - a structure-forming component, a regulator of the viscosity of the emulsion, increases the thermal stability of the emulsion.

 Distilled monoglycerides are a structure-forming and stabilizing component in cosmetic emulsions.

 Cosmetic stearin in emulsions is used as an emulsifying and structure-forming component.

 Emulsion wax - emulsifier for oil-water emulsions.

 Oxyethylated lanolin softens the skin.

 Triethanolamine together with stearin forms a compound that exhibits emulsifying properties.

 Distilled glycerin (1-2-propylene glycol) is used as a component that prevents drying, lowers the freezing temperature, and softens the skin.

 Vegetable oil - oil components of the cream, soften and nourish the skin.

 Perfumery oil - butyl stearate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate - oil components of the cream provide good cream glide on the skin, has water-retaining properties.

 Polyethylsiloxane fluid creates a film on the skin that helps retain water in the skin.

 Acrylic acid copolymer is a regulator of viscosity of emulsions.

 Preservatives ensure the safety of the cream during the warranty period of storage, prevent microbial infection of the cream.

 Fragrance gives the cream a pleasant smell.

 Water is the main component for the preparation of emulsion cream.

 The preparation of the cream is as follows.

Solid and liquid fatty raw materials are loaded into the melting pot: distilled monoglycerides, beeswax, stearin, emulsion wax, lanolin, perfume and vegetable oils, polyethylsiloxane liquid and melted to 80-85 ^o C.

Water, glycerin, triethanolamine and an acrylic acid copolymer are charged into the reactor and heated to 75-80 ^° C. Then, the mixer is turned on and the molten fatty material is pumped.

 Emulsification is carried out for 20-25 minutes. The finished emulsion is pumped into the boiler-refrigerator and cooled with stirring. Then a mixture of preservatives, ethyl alcohol, wheat germ oil, perfume, and last but not least, nucleotides are added.

 Packing of the cream is carried out after obtaining positive results of the laboratory analysis in accordance with the technical conditions for this cream.

 The resulting cream is a homogeneous mass from white to light cream color with a fancy smell.

 To disclose the invention below are the results of experimental-clinical radiation of the proposed cream.

 1. The purpose and objectives of the study.

 To study in the experiment and clinic the harmlessness and biological activity of the proposed cosmetic cream containing marine gamma nucleotides, intended for the care of dry moisturizing facial skin, i.e. gerontological action.

 2. Object and research methods.

 The experiments were performed on sexually mature animals that are on a standard diet of vivarium: 10 guinea pigs weighing 180-200 g and 20 linear CBWA mice weighing 18-20 g of both sexes. We studied subacute toxicity by the Gatsuro method, the irritating and allergenic effect by the Ievleva method. Morphological control was performed in biopsies of the skin and liver, using hematoxylin-zosin staining and Sudan IV.

The cream was applied to a pre-clipped side of the skin area of about 1 cm ² in mice and 5 cm ² in guinea pigs for 21 days without interruption. The control was animals that were cut sideways in the same way as in the experimental group.

 The irritating and allergenic effect of the cream was evaluated by the occurrence of hypermia, edema, and peeling of the skin at the site of application. In addition, on the last day of the experiment, the cream was applied to neighboring areas of the skin that had not previously been treated. If the cream has allergenic properties, such an application should cause external manifestations.

 Possible toxic effects of the skin were assessed by external behavioral indicators - lethargy, impaired appetite, etc., as well as by changes in body weight of experimental animals during the experiment.

 Animals were slaughtered on the 21st day from the start of the experiment by decapitation. Experimental skin areas were immediately weighed and homogenized to determine biological and morphological parameters.

 Skin samples for determining the secondary products of lipid peroxidation (HPPO) and collagenolytic activity after weighing were abraded in a faience mortar with the addition of glass powder for more complete grinding. After that, an aliquot of the extraction buffer was added to the homogenates to determine HPAI and collagenolytic activity or an extraction mixture to determine lipids.

 The extracts were centrifuged to separate the glass beads and the insoluble residue, after which the HPPO, collagenolytic activity and lipids in the supernatant were determined.

 The concentration of VPPO was determined by the central reaction with 2-thiobarbituric acid, photometri at a wavelength of 535 nm, the optical path - 1 cm

 To determine the lipid concentration of liposome formation in phosphate buffer osmotically balanced with potassium chloride. The lipid concentration was determined by the turbidity of the suspension of liposomes at a wavelength of 650 nm. For calibration, standard lipid concentrations were used.

When determining collagenolytic activity, the homogenate in Hanks medium without phenol red (HBS) at the rate of 1 ml of HB per 100 mg of skin was transferred into corks containing a substrate and incubated for 2 hours at 37 ^o C. Collagen was used as a substrate (Ture I , Sigma, USA).

 The reaction was stopped by the addition of 10% trichloroacetic acid, coagulation of the undigested protein was carried out, it was precipitated by centrifugation, and then the amount of the digested protein was measured by the photometric method with Biuret reagent. In parallel, the collagenolytic activity of the standard enzyme (Collagenase, Ture IX, Sigma, USA) was measured.

 Clinical trials were conducted on 25 healthy women aged 28 to 65 with dry, aging type of skin. On examination, a decrease in elasticity, turgor, sagging and peeling of the skin was observed.

 The test subjects applied the cream to pre-cleansed skin for 30 minutes, after which the residue was removed with a paper towel.

 In order to clarify individual sensitivity, patchwork samples were carried out under a closed dressing for 24 hours. In the case of a negative patchwork sample, bio-cream was then applied for 21 days to the skin of the face and body. In clinical trials of biocream, the following tests were recorded: skin color, wrinkles, oily or dry skin, vascular reactions, elasticity and hydration, i.e. tests characterizing the functional state of the skin.

 3. Research results.

 3.1. The results of experimental studies.

 The cream does not have an irritating or allergenic effect in any experiment.

 During the experiment, no measurements of animal behavior were observed, nor was weight loss noted.

 The content of secondary peroxidation products amounted to 52.4 ± 7.3 nM per 100 mg of skin in the control group and 84.9 ± 9.9 nM per 100 mg of skin in the experimental group, i.e., the content of secondary peroxidation products in the skin significantly increased approximately one and a half times with the application of a cream with nucleotides (table. 1).

 The content of extractable lipids in the skin increased: 6.5 ± 1.3 mg per 100 skin in the control group and 8.3 ± 1.1 mg per 100 mg of skin in the experimental group.

 The collagenolytic activity of the skin after the application of the cream was reduced compared to intact animals. So, for example, 100 mg of skin was split under the above conditions 1.42 ± 0.24 mg of collagen in the control group and 1.08 ± 0.23 mg of collagen when applying the cream. A standard enzyme (Ture IX, Sigma, USA) cleaved 0.75 mg of collagen per mg of enzyme under the same conditions.

 The histological and histochemical radiation of the skin and liver after rubbing the cream indicates the absence of dystrophic and inflammatory changes in the epidermis, dermis and liver. The cream does not affect the proliferation of epithelial cells and fibroplasts. There are no pathological changes in the collagen fibers of the dermis. Thus, according to histological data, the toxic effect of the cream on the skin does not differ.

 As a result of the experimental work, the following conclusions can be drawn.

 1. The cream with nucleotides is non-toxic, does not have an irritating or allergenic effect, reduces the content of secondary products of lipid peroxidation in the skin (and on its surface), i.e. has an antioxidant effect.

 2. The amount of extractable lipids when applying the cream increases.

 The collagenolytic activity of the skin during application of the cream has a tendency to decrease, which contributes to the accumulation of soluble collagen, reduced with aging.

 3.2. The results of clinical trials.

 Cream tolerance is good.

 Allergizing and irritating effects of the cream were not observed. It is established that the cream is well absorbed into the skin and does not leave a greasy shine.

 As a result of using the cream, the skin of the patients acquired a more natural shade.

 Prior to testing, the elasticity of facial skin in women was reduced to one degree or another. After using the cream with marine nucleotides, the elasticity partially or completely restored, in addition, peeling disappeared and dry skin was reduced.

 When assessing the state of the surface and deep wrinkles during the use of a cream with nucleotides, it was noted that in 10 subjects, the surface wrinkles around the eyes and mouth were almost smoothed out, 13 of them became significantly less, and 2 did not significantly change.

 Deep wrinkles in the area of the forehead skin in 8 women were almost smoothed, in 9 their depth decreased, in 6 remained unchanged.

 The turgor of the skin of the face and neck has improved.

 Thus, the above experimental-clinical testing of a cream with marine nucleotides indicates its harmlessness, the absence of irritating and allergenic effects, antioxidant and opposing properties, and a positive effect on lipid and collagen metabolism.

Example 1. In a melting pot load 1.0 wt.% Distilled monoglycerides, 2.0 wt. % emulsion wax, 0.5 wt.% anhydrous lanolin, 3.0 wt.% vegetable oil, 5.0 wt.% perfume oil, 1.0 wt.% polyethylsiloxane liquid and melted to 80-085 ^o C.

Water, 2.0 wt.% Glycerol, 0.2 wt.% Triethanolamine are charged into the reactor and heated to 75-80 ^° C. Then, the mixer is turned on and the molten fatty material is pumped. Emulsification is carried out for 20-25 minutes.

 The finished emulsion is pumped into the boiler-refrigerator and cooled with stirring. Then add 0.05 wt.% Preservatives, 2.0 wt.% Ethyl alcohol, 0.05 wt. % oil from wheat germ, 0.5 wt.% perfumes and 0.5 gamma nucleotides.

 The resulting cream is a homogeneous mass of white or slightly creamy color with a fancy smell.

 Clinical and experimental studies have shown that the cream has a high antioxidant, collagenolytic and anti-inflammatory activity.

 Allergic and irritating properties not found.

Example 2. In a melting pot load 4.0 wt.% Distilled monoglycerides, 4.0 wt. % emulsion wax, 1.0 wt.% anhydrous lanolin, 5.0 wt.% vegetable oil, 8.0 wt.% perfume oil, 3.0 wt.% polyethylsiloxane liquid and melted to 80-85 ^o C.

The reactor is charged with water, 5.0 wt.% Distilled glycerol, 0.7 wt. % triethylamine, 0.3 wt.% copolymer of acrylic acid and heated to 75-80 ^o C. Then turn on the stirrer and pump the molten fatty raw materials. Emulsification is carried out for 20-25 minutes.

 The finished emulsion is pumped into the boiler-refrigerator and cooled with stirring. Then add 0.55 wt.% Preservatives, 5.0 wt.% Ethyl alcohol, 0.2 wt.% Oil from wheat germ, 1.0 wt.% Perfumes and 2.0 wt.% Gamma nucleotides.

 The resulting cream is a homogeneous mass of white with a fancy smell. Clinical and experimental studies have shown that the cream has a high antioxidant, collagenolytic and anti-inflammatory activity.

 Allergic and irritating properties not found.

 Thus, the presented examples illustrate the importance of the qualitative and quantitative composition of the proposed cream.

 In special studies, it was shown that going beyond the stated values of the ingredients of the composition in the direction of increasing or decreasing causes a deterioration in the organoleptic properties of the cream and a decrease in therapeutic and prophylactic activity.

 At the same time, the introduction into the composition of the claimed cream of some alternative raw components does not adversely affect the cream.

 Thus, the proposed cream is an original cosmetic product, replenishing energy metabolism impaired during aging of the skin. The cream has an antioxidant effect, because reduces the formation of free radionuclides, activates the exchange of lipids and proteins, stimulates the synthesis of free, insoluble collagen. The cream is completely harmless, well absorbed, has a pleasant texture and smell, improves the functional state of the skin, in particular, makes it elastic, the number of superficial and deep wrinkles decreases, the turgor of the skin and neck improves, the cream has an anti-inflammatory effect.

Bibliography
1. MKI ⁴ A 61 K 7/00, AC N 1271516, 1986.

1. MKI ⁵ A 61 K 7/48, RF Patent N 2021804, 1994.

1. MKI ⁴ A 61 K 7/50, 6/40, PCT International application N 88/06034.

1. MKI ⁴ A 61 K 7/48, France, application N 2651434, 1991.

Claims (1)

Cosmetic cream containing biologically active products of nucleic acid metabolism, distilled monoglycerides, emulsion wax, vegetable oil, preservatives, perfume and water, characterized in that it contains marine gamma nucleotides and additional wheat germ oil, beeswax beeswax, cosmetic stearin of brands A, B, D, U, triethanolamine, distilled glycerin-60 or 1-2-propylene glycol, or sorbitol, polyethylsiloxane liquid PES-3 or PES-5, acrylic acid copolymer , perfumery oil or butyl stearate, or isopropyl myristate, or isopropyl palmitate, highly refined ethyl alcohol, ethanolated ethanol or anhydrous lanolin, glycerol monostearate, or DEG stearate, or distilled monoglycerides in the following ratio of components:%,
Distilled monoglycerides or glycerol monostearate, or DEG stearate - 1.0 - 4.0
Beeswax beeswax - Not more than 1.0
Cosmetic stearin brands A, B, D, U - 0.5 - 2.0
Emulsion wax - 2.0 - 4.0
Oxyethylated lanolin-60 or anhydrous lanolin - 0.5 - 1.0
Triethanolamine - 0.2 - 0.7
Distilled glycerin or 1-2-propylene glycol, or sorbitol - 2.0 - 5.0
Vegetable oil - 3.0 - 5.0
Perfume oil or butylsteart, or isopropyl myristate, or isopropyl palmitate - 5.0 - 8.0
Polyethylsiloxane liquid PES-3 or PES-5 - 1.0 - 3.0
Rectified ethyl alcohol of the highest purification - 2.0 - 5.0
Marine gamma nucleotides - 0.5 - 2.0
Wheat germ oil - 0.05 - 0.2
Acrylic Acid Copolymer - Not more than 0.3
Preservatives - 0.05 - 0.55
Fragrance - 0.5 - 1.0
Water - Up to 100.

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