RU2048803C1 - Hydratant cream - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology. SUBSTANCE: proposed cream contains glucose complex. EFFECT: improves quality of desired product. 1 dwg, 2 tbl

Description

 The invention relates to cosmetology and relates to creams of hydratant action used to care for aging facial skin.

 As you know, in the skin during aging, the water content decreases. Age-related changes in water-salt metabolism are the development of dehydration, which is due to a decrease in protein content and their ability to swell and bind water. A decrease in the moisture content in the skin is the cause of its dryness and wrinkles, as well as a decrease in elastic properties. Therefore, the attention of researchers around the world is aimed at creating cosmetics that retain moisture in the skin, normalize impaired water-salt metabolism, and create a mechanical film on the surface of the skin that prevents moisture loss.

 Hydratant cosmetics are widely used abroad, including urea, hyaluronic and lactic acids, glycerin, allanin, aspartic acid, collagen, allantoin, amino acids, enzymes.

 A cream for aging skin is known that contains orotic acid and additionally sorbitan oleate, beeswax, stearyl stearate-stearolcitalan, mink fat, pentol, isopropyl polmitate, perfume oil, magnesium, sulfuric acid, ethyl alcohol and paraform (author. . USSR N 1271516, class A 61 K 7/00, 1985).

 However, the known cream due to the high content of fat components has a high fat content. This impairs the penetration of the biologically active substance into the skin. As a result, the water-retaining effect of the cream is small, it does not affect the water exchange and transdermal transport of water.

 The objective of the invention is the creation of a hydrant cream forming a retaining film.

The essence of the invention lies in the fact that the composition of the hydration cream includes a mitilan-glucose complex. In addition, the cream contains alcohols of the fraction C ₁₇ -C ₁₈ overclocked synthetic, primary alcohols high molecular weight synthetic, primary higher fatty C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ , cosmetic stearin, hydroxyethylated lanolin, perfume oil, emulsion wax, glycerol monostearate, anhydrous lanolin, glycerin distilled, triethanolamine, ethyl alcohol, polyethylsiloxane liquids PES-3, PES-5, paraform, methyl paraoxybenzoic acid, perfume and water in the following ratios of components, wt. Alcohols of the fraction C ₁₇ -C ₁₈ overclocked synthetic, primary alcohols high molecular weight synthetic or primary higher fatty C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ 0.5-1.0 Cosmetic stearin brands A, B, D, U 2.0- 3,5 Oxyethylated lanolin 0.3-0.3 Perfume oil butyl stearate-isopropyl palmitate-isopyl myristate 3.0-5.0 Emulsion wax 1.0-2.0 Glycerol monostearate monoglycerides distilled DEG stearate 1.0 -2.0 Anhydrous lanolin 1.0-2.0 Distilled glycerol 1.2 propylene glycol 2.5-5.0 2.2 ', 2''- nitrilotriethanol-triethanolamine 0.5-0.7 Rectified ethyl alcohol higher purification 2.0-5.0 Glucose crystalline hydrate 0.5-1.0 Liquids polyethylsiloxane PES-3, PES-5 1.0-2.0 Mitilan 0.05-0.3 Paraform "pure" bro nitrol 0.05-0.05 Paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester 0.5-0.5 Fragrance 0.5-1.0 Water
new
The essential features of the invention should be considered the qualitative and quantitative composition of the cream, as well as the introduction of mitilan in combination with glucose. The inclusion of components such as polyethylsiloxane liquids, high molecular weight alcohols in the cream made it possible to obtain a new set of features exhibiting new properties: the antioxidant, regenerative and anti-inflammatory effect on transdermal transport.

 The following is a description of the raw materials that make up the cream.

Alcohols C ₁₇ -C ₁₈ synthetic primary dispersed structure-forming components.

 Cosmetic stearin is used in creams as an emulsifying and structure-forming component.

 Lanolin increases the thermal stability of the cream, allows you to adjust its viscosity, softens the skin, and helps the skin absorb biologically active components of the cream.

 Perfume oil viscosity regulator cosmetic emulsions, provides good plastic properties of emulsion cream.

 Emulsion wax is an emulsifier that provides the formation of an oil-water emulsion.

 Glycerol monostearate, DEG stearate, monoglycerides distilled structure-forming raw materials.

 Glycerin-1,2 propylene glycol is used as a component that protects the cosmetic product from drying out.

 Triethanolamine exhibits emulsifying properties.

 Alcohol, paraform, paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester preservatives.

 Perfume is added to give a pleasant smell to the cream.

 Water is the main component for the preparation of all types of emulsion creams.

 Crystalline, hydrated glucose is an energetic and moisturizing component.

 Polyethylsiloxane fluids create a film on the skin that promotes water retention.

The main stages of the manufacturing process of the proposed cream are:
weighing, melting of raw materials;
preparation of fat and water phases;
emulsification;
cooling and perfume;
packaging and packaging.

 Cream technology.

Melted solid fatty raw materials, perfume oil, stearin, C ₁₇ -C ₁₈ alcohols, emulsion wax, glycerol monostearate, anhydrous and oxyethylated lanolin, polyethylsiloxane liquids are mixed in the reactor with an aqueous phase consisting of water, glycerol, triethanolamine, glucose and methyl methoxybenzoic ether acid, and emulsify at a temperature of 80-85 ^about With a stirrer. The emulsion is cooled in a boiler-refrigerator to a temperature of 28-30 ^o C. All useful additives and fragrance are introduced into the emulsion during cooling.

 To disclose the essence of the invention, the following are the results of experimental and clinical observations on the study of the therapeutic properties of the proposed cream.

 The purpose and objective of the study is to study the harmlessness and biological activity of the proposed hydrant cream containing, as a biologically active additive, mitilan in combination with glucose.

To this end, the following indicators were studied:
subacute toxicity with morphological control of the skin and internal organs;
irritating and allergenic effect of the cream with morphological control of the skin;
lipid content in the skin when exposed to cream biochemical and histochemical methods;
cream antioxidant activity on lipid peroxidation models.

 A clinical study of the cream was also carried out using clinical indicators and a moisture meter test.

 Object and research methods.

 The experiments were carried out on 25 male guinea pigs, albinos weighing 250-300 g, located on a standard diet of vivarium. The drug was applied daily, once to previously depilated skin areas. The controls were intact animals and those receiving the cream base.

 When studying subacute toxicity, a visual assessment of the effect of the drug was carried out taking into account the general condition of the skin and coat of experimental animals, behavior, weight gain, and appetite compared with the control. All animals had a macroscopic description of the internal organs and skin, as well as a histochemical description (staining with toluidine blue and Brachet reaction); histological (staining with hematocasilin-eosin) study of the skin.

 Irritant and allergenic effects were studied according to the Ievleva method taking into account the morphological structure of the skin.

To study the mechanism of action of the cream, as well as the development of indications and contraindications for its use, the following tests were used:
quantitative determination of total lipids according to Huergo, histochemical determination of skin lipids (staining with Sudan IV);
the antioxidant activity of the cream was studied by registering chemiluminescence on lipid peroxidation models.

 The reliability of the results was confirmed statically using Student's criterion.

 Clinical trials were conducted on healthy 30 women and 15 men aged 32 to 56 years with dry or normal skin type. All subjects had wrinkles around their eyes, cheeks, forehead, neck, dry face, peeling, itching, and a decrease in the elastic and hydrant properties of the skin.

 Before starting treatment with the proposed cream, all subjects underwent patchwork samples for 24 hours under a closed bandage.

 To evaluate the hydratant properties of the cream, the Tecom-SkinSensor automatic electrometric system was used. We studied the effect of cream on transepidermal water transport of the stratum corneum of the epidermis of the skin (RSE), the water content in the stratum corneum of the epidermis.

 The results of the study.

 Recipe Evaluation.

 The cream formulation deserves a positive assessment. As a biologically active additive, mitilan polysaccharide in combination with glucose was introduced into the cream. In addition, the composition of the cream includes perfume oil, lanolin, emulsion waxes, nourishing stearin, glycerin introduced into the cream, softens the skin, PES-3 and PES-5 fluids have a film-forming effect. The cream contains structure-forming components, emulsifiers, preservatives, perfume. A successful combination of all the above components allowed to obtain a harmless, highly effective, stable, hydrated cosmetic cream, which has a good consistency and appearance, as well as a pleasant smell.

 Experimental research.

 Subacute toxicity.

 With prolonged application of the cream for 30 days, there were no signs of intoxication. The general behavior of animals, motor activity, weight gain, appetite, and the condition of the coat and skin in the experimental animals did not differ from the control. An autopsy revealed macroscopically that the internal organs (liver, kidneys) and adrenal glands in the control and experimental groups from the cut surface have the same appearance, their tissue is dense, moderately full-blooded, and there are no signs of dystrophic structures. A comparative study of the histological structure of control and experimental animals did not reveal any pathological changes in animals that received the proposed skin cutaneous cream. This applies to both the structure of the skin and the internal organs.

 With the help of visual observation, as well as histological and histochemical techniques, no phenomena of irritation and allergenic effect were revealed (absence of hyperemia, edema, inflammatory infiltration, eosinophilic reaction).

When studying the mechanism of action of the cream, stimulation of lipid metabolism of the skin was noted, in particular, using histochemical studies, an increase in the content of neutral lipids in the secretion of the sebaceous glands was found, and using biochemical methods, an increase in the content of total lipids in the skin was found to be 20%
A study of the antioxidant activity of the cream showed that when exposed to the cream, lipid peroxidation is completely suppressed, the content of MDA decreases, i.e. the cream has an antioxidant effect associated with quenching of free radicals.

 Results of a clinical study.

 Before using the cream, all patients underwent patchwork under a closed dressing, applying cream for 24 hours on the skin of the inner surface of the forearm. All patchwork samples are negative. The cream was applied to previously cleansed skin with a thin layer 1 time per day (in the morning) for 15-20 minutes. The excess cream was removed with a paper towel. The tolerance of the cream is satisfactory, absorbency is good, there is no allergenic and irritating effect.

 The test results were evaluated by such parameters as fat content, skin elasticity, the condition and presence of wrinkles, both superficial and deep, as well as the condition of the surface vessels of the skin. As a result of using the proposed cream for 1-2 months, the skin type in 17 women became normal, while the rest significantly reduced dry skin, and elasticity partially or completely restored. The cream also had a positive effect on the state of superficial and deep wrinkles: their depth decreased, in some cases, some wrinkles were almost smoothed out.

 The use of the cream had an anti-inflammatory effect. It should be noted that the cream removed makeup well and cleansed the skin.

 The study of the hydratant properties of the cream was carried out using the Tecom-SkinSensor automated electrometric system. This system was created on the basis of the previously studied and described in the literature electrometric method for monitoring the parameters of the stratum corneum of the human skin epidermis (RSE), the transport of water through it during imperceptible perspiration and microcirculation of blood in the skin.

 The work examined the effect of cream on transdermal transport of water, the water content in the stratum corneum of the epidermis and the diffuse properties of the stratum corneum of the epidermis for water. A comparative analysis was performed with intact skin areas (control). As subjects, we used volunteers aged 25 to 60 years without a pronounced pathology of the skin and peripheral vascular system (a total of 6 series of experiments were conducted). Moreover, in each series of experiments on one subject at the first stage, the dynamics of the electrical conductivity of the RSE was studied before exposure to the cream simultaneously in several areas of the skin. These sites were selected on a morphologically homogeneous area of the skin. The distance between the sensors is 4 cm. The duration of the study is 1000 s.

 At the second stage, cream and foundation were applied to the studied skin areas. The exposure time is 30 minutes At the same time, at least one of the controlled areas of the skin served as a control. After a period of exposure, the preparations were washed from the skin surface with an ether-alcohol solution. After that, after 5-10 min, a second series of measurements of the dynamics of the electrical conductivity of the RSE was performed.

 The results of the studies are presented in table 1. in the drawing.

 It can be seen from the presented materials that the cream has a pronounced hydratant effect, i.e. increases the flow of water through the stratum corneum of the epidermis during transepidermal transport of water and increases the water content in the skin (Table 1).

PRI me R 1. After weighing the raw materials, prepare the aqueous phase. For this, water, 2.5 wt. glycerol of distilled 1-2 propylene glycol, 0.5 wt. 2.2 ', 2''- nitrilotriethanol-triethanolamine, 0.5 wt. crystalline glucose, 0.5 wt. paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester and heated to a temperature of 75-80 ^about C.

To prepare the fat phase, 3.0 wt. butyl stearate-isopropyl palmitate-isopropyl myristate perfume oil, 2.0 wt. cosmetic stearin brand A, B, D, U, 0.5 wt. alcohols fraction C ₁₇ -C ₁₈ overclocked synthetic, 1.0 wt. emulsion wax, 1.0 wt. glycerol monostearate, 1.0 wt. anhydrous lanolin, 1.0 wt. polyethylsiloxane liquids and melted to a temperature of 80-85 ^about C. Then carry out emulsification. In the process of cooling the mixture add 0.05 wt. paraform, 2.0 wt. ethyl alcohol, 0.05 wt. mitilan, 0.5 wt. perfumes.

 The resulting cream is a homogeneous emulsion of white or light cream color with a pleasant smell. Pharmacological studies of the resulting cream revealed the presence of hydratant, anti-inflammatory, regenerating, antioxidant properties.

PRI me R 2. After weighing the raw materials, prepare the aqueous phase. To do this, load water, 5.0 wt. glycerol distilled-1,2 propylene glycol, 0.7 wt. triethanolamine, 1.0 wt. crystalline glucose, 0.5 wt. paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester and heated to a temperature of 75-80 ^about C.

To prepare the fat phase, 5.0 wt. perfume oil, butyl stearate-isopropyl palmitate-isopropyl myristate, 3.5 wt. stearin cosmetic brand A, B, D, U, 1.0 wt. alcohols of the fraction C ₁₇ -C ₁₈ overclocked synthetic, 2.0 wt. emulsion wax, 2.0 wt. glycerol monostearate, 2.0 wt. anhydrous lanolin, 2.0 wt. polyethylsiloxane liquids and melted to a temperature of 80-85 ^about C. After emulsification in the process of cooling the cream add 0.05 wt. paraforma, 5.0 wt. ethyl alcohol, 0.3 wt. mitilan, 1.0 wt. perfumes.

 The resulting cream is a homogeneous emulsion of white or light cream color with a pleasant smell. Pharmacological studies have shown that the cream has hydratant, anti-inflammatory, regenerating, and antioxidant properties.

 Thus, the presented examples illustrate the therapeutic and prophylactic effectiveness of the cream and the significance of its qualitative and quantitative composition.

 Comparative results of experimental clinical studies of various creams with a hydratant effect are presented in Table 2.

 The proposed cream in comparison with the known hydratant creams has the following advantages. The cream, thanks to its original formulation, has a complex effect on aging skin, including a hydrate, antioxidant effect, an effect on peripheral blood circulation, smoothing deep wrinkles, etc. Known creams do not have a complex effect, as a result of their geriatric effect is much weaker.

 Thus, analyzing the results of an experimental clinical study of the cream, it can be concluded that the cream is non-toxic, does not exhibit irritating and allergenic effects, has pronounced hydratant properties, has an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect, improves the functional state of the skin and can be used to care for aging and normal skin, prone to inflammation, in order to prevent wrinkles, reduce dryness and premature withering of the skin.

Claims (1)

HYDRATANT CREAM containing cosmetic stearin, lanolin, oil, wax, ethyl alcohol, paraform, perfume and water, characterized in that it additionally contains alcohols of fraction C _{1 7} C _{1 8} distilled synthetic, primary alcohols high molecular weight synthetic, or primary higher fatty C _{1 6} C _{2 0} , glycerol monostearate or monoglycerides distilled or DEG stearate, distilled glycerol 2.2; 2 ″ -nitrilotriethanol or triethanolamine, crystalline glucose, polyethylsiloxane liquids, methylane, paraoxybenzyl methyl ether acid, as an oil, perfume oil or butyl stearate, or isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate in the following ratio of components, wt. Alcohols of fraction C _{1 7} -C _{1 8} dispersed synthetic, primary alcohols high molecular weight synthetic or primary higher fatty C _{1 6} -C _{2 0} 0.5-1.0
Cosmetic stearin brands A, B, D, U 2.0-3.5
Ethanolated lanolin 0.3-3.0
Perfume oil butyl stearatisopropyl palmitate isopropyl myristate 3.0-5.0
Emulsion Wax 1.0-2.0
Glycerol monostearate distilled monoglycerides -
DEG stearate 1.0-2.0
Anhydrous lanolin 1.0-2.0
Distilled glycerin 1.2 propylene glycol 2.5-5.0
2.2; 2 ″ -nitrilotriethanol or triethanolamine 0.5-0.7
Rectified ethyl alcohol of the highest purification 2.0-5.0
Glucose crystalline hydrate 0.5-1.0
Polyethylsiloxane fluids PES-3, PES-5 1.0-2.0
Mytilan 0.05-0.3
Paraform Pure Bronitrol 0.05-0.05
Paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester 0.5-0.5
Fragrance 0.5-1.0
Water Else

Images